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RE: Anyone growing Frisian Pride? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: BeverlyMN on 01.23.2015 at 07:47 pm in Hosta Forum

I grow it, but can't answer all you questions because I grow it in a pot. In fall I plant it in my vegetable patch and in the spring I dig it out so its roots are disturbed twice a year. Its substance is good enough, say better than PUC but not thick, and it looks good all year. FP greens up some after spring.


Frisian Pride
clipped on: 01.23.2015 at 07:59 pm    last updated on: 01.23.2015 at 07:59 pm

RE: Hosta G 2014 (Follow-Up #111)

posted by: steve_mass on 01.18.2015 at 06:53 pm in Hosta Forum

Hmmm. I'm using Flickr and all were taken with a Sony DSC HX100v point and shoot camera. No iPhones on those guys. I'll post the address to my Flickr account below so you can take a look at any of my pictures. Be forewarned there are a lot.

Here's another one:
Guardian Angel
Guardian Angel


Here is a link that might be useful: Steve's Flickr Pics


Link to steve_mass flicker pics
clipped on: 01.20.2015 at 07:42 am    last updated on: 01.20.2015 at 07:43 am

RE: Hosta B 2014 (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: irawon on 12.28.2014 at 11:15 am in Hosta Forum

Blue Jay


clipped on: 01.02.2015 at 09:15 pm    last updated on: 01.02.2015 at 09:16 pm

RE: Hosta B 2014 (Follow-Up #80)

posted by: mbug on 12.29.2014 at 08:55 pm in Hosta Forum

Birchwood Parky's Gold

Birchwood Parky's Gold photo BirchwoodParkysGold.jpg

Brother Stefan

Brother Stefan photo BrotherStefan-2.jpg


Two beauties
clipped on: 12.29.2014 at 11:04 pm    last updated on: 12.29.2014 at 11:05 pm

RE: The Myth of Soil Amendments (Follow-Up #44)

posted by: the_virginian on 02.23.2012 at 01:29 pm in Soil Forum

In my experience, adding a moderate amount of organic matter to the native soil with some fertilizer when planting has always resulted in better growth and healthier plants. The key is to make sure you never remove any of the native soil when amending and backfilling and to make sure the hole surrounding the root ball is deep and wide enough. Problems arise when the native soil is removed and backfilled with too much organic matter in too small a planting hole. Good mulch and watering well after planting is a must along with yearly fertilizing to give the root system a boost to break into the surrounding soil with vigor.


clipped on: 12.29.2014 at 09:57 pm    last updated on: 12.29.2014 at 09:58 pm

RE: The Myth of Soil Amendments (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: michael357 on 12.29.2011 at 12:15 pm in Soil Forum

Gonebananas: your comment about a Ditch witch reminded me of the "soil" in a region south of lake Okeechobee, FL. You want to see some bizarre agriculture, they grow tropical and sub-tropical fruit trees there on the Marl ground. What is Marl? Marl is a flat, ancient limestone sea bed, to stand on it you would see a tiny bit of what some might of as soil, under that very thin veneer is flat limestone extending form many square miles. So how does one plant trees in a smooth rock surface, with a ditch witch of course? The trencher cuts trenches north-south and east-west making a grid, at the grid line intersections the trees are planted and the rubble from trenching shoved back in the trenches. The tree roots can only grow down the rubble filled trench lines as they are unable to penetrate the trench floors and walls.

If you think that's weird, you ought to see the commercial tomato fields where the rows consist of piled up Marl rubble, a drip irrigation line run down the middle and plastic mulch over the top. The trellis system is a real hoot too, a specialized machine is used to ram lengths of rebar into the Marl for the strings to be tied to. Tomato transplants are then planted in the beds down the bed middles.

Soil amendments, what amendments?


Ditch witch planting
clipped on: 12.29.2014 at 09:41 pm    last updated on: 12.29.2014 at 09:42 pm

RE: Loosing my Gardenia v. (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: tropical_philippines on 06.27.2008 at 02:49 am in Fragrant Plants Forum

I agree with snasxs.
"keeping the soil evenly moisted" is the way to kill gardenia

My gardenias actually grow in my backyard in full tropical sun. Our temperature range during dry season (tropical climates only have two seasons: dry and wet) is a low of 80F at night and a high of 90F during the day. Our coldest temperatures are typically never lower than 72F and our highest, typically never above 94F. Our humidity is usually around 70%-90%. It typically never gets lower than 60% humidity but it can get as high as 100%.

Given these climate conditions, during dry season, when I water in the morning at 7:30AM, the soil is already dry and starting to crack by late afternoon.

My gardenias actually have no problem with this and they remain VERY HEALTHY, GREEN, and BLOOMING despite this. I usually don't need to water them again in the afternoon and simply water them the next morning. Despite this regular daily 'stress' to the gardenias, I never really saw their leaves droop. They only start to exhibit signs of dehydration and drooping when they haven't been watered for 48 hours during the dry season (no rain at all for tropical climates).

This has made me conclude that gardenias are actually 'forgiving' plants rather than 'finicky'. :) They can tolerate extended periods of dryness but NEVER wetness. Stress from too much moisture in the soil is further aggravated when you have an overfertilized soil.

In summary, with gardenias, my experience has been:
1) Err on the side of dryness (neglect) than on wetness (too much attention).
2) Err on the side of very little or no fertilizer at all (neglect) than on too much fertilizer (too much attention).
3) Err on both 1) and 2) and you have the PERFECT RECIPE for RAPID gardenia death. :)

From my experience, once a gardenia starts to lose all its MATURE leaves from too much water and/or fertilizer, it is usually a HOPELESS case even if it has lots of 'promising' buds and young leaves left at the stem and tips. By then, majority of its roots will have been rotted and burned to death by too much fertilizer. (Too much fertilizer is usually indicated by browning of many mature leaf tips. Too much water, by rapid yellowing of many mature leaves especially the lower ones. Stagnant or very slow growth is an indication that could also point to either one or both.)

Gardenia owners shouldn't worry too much about underwatering gardenias. It is VERY EASY to revive a dehyrated, drooping, underwatered gardenia in a fertilizer free soil--- just add water and it should spring back in minutes (or in a few days if severely dehydrated).

However, it is usually difficult to revive a sick one in constantly moist soil with too much fertilizer. You have to replace the soil with a dry one without any fertilizer, and refrain from further disturbing the plant's roots, stem or leaves. You just water the plant a little (just enough to moist the roots and the soil near it) and to leave the soil dry in between waterings. It should spring back in a month. (Yes, it takes longer for a sick gardenia to recover when it is due to overwatering/overfertilizing.)

Fertilize only when the 'sick' gardenia has regained majority of its leaves back. (Many new, young leaves should have already matured). Again, err on the side of very little or no chemical fertilizer at all (organic is preferred as it doesn't burn) than on too much fertilizer.

Hope this helps those who are having trouble growing these wonderful, easy-to-grow plants. (I actually find roses more problematic with all those blackspot, mildew and soil parasites.)

Good luck!



clipped on: 12.22.2014 at 07:09 am    last updated on: 12.22.2014 at 07:09 am

RE: before and after, a work in progress (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: dansgrdn on 08.11.2007 at 12:05 am in Hosta Forum

Anitamo, most of my hostas came from Green Glen nursery in New Lenox, and Contrary Mary's Plants in Mokena. I just went to Sunrise Nursery in Grant Park today, Wow!, what a selection. Where are you at? I'll definately take pictures of the new waterfall project and share them with the group.

Molly and Phyl, thanks for the very nice comments. Phyl, are you anywhere close to me? I'm in Tinley Park.

Finally Mary, it took me a while to come up with your answer. Here is the list of things planted in the bed. Some are visible in the pictures I've posted and some are not.

DISCLAIMER: I am a rogue gardener, who plants things too close together, to allow their maximum size at maturity. My only mission is to have the fun and relaxation that comes to me by planting cool plants. By stating this list I am by no means endorsing the use of this many plants in a limited space, I am only answering a question that was posed to me. LOL
With that out of the way, here's the list:

Abies (True Fir)

A.x arnoldiana 'Poulsen'
A. balsamea 'Eugene Gold'
A. koreana 'Silberlocke'
A. procera 'Blaue Hexe'
A. veitchii 'Heddergott'

Acer japonicum 'Kujaka nishiki'

Acer palmatum (Japanese Maple)

A.p. 'Abigail Rose'
A.p. 'Baby Lace'
A.p. 'Beni Fushigi'
A.p. 'Kamagata'
A.p. 'Koto no ito'
A.p. 'Mikawa Yatsabusa'
A.p. 'Scolopendrifolium'
A.p. 'Shaina'
A.p. 'Shadiva Gold'
A.p. 'Shishigashira'
A.p. Toyama nishiki'

Athyrium niponicum var. pictum (Japanese Painted Fern)

Cornus (Dogwood)

C. alternifolium 'Bachone' trade name Gold Bullion TM.
C. alternifolium 'W. Stackman' trade name Golden Shadows TM

Dicentra (Bleeding Heart)

Dryopteris erythrosora (Autumn Fern) 'Brilliance'

Hakonechloa macra (Japanese Forest Grass)
'All Gold'

Heuchera (Coralbells)

'Midnight Rose'
'Plum Pudding'
'Silver Scrolls'

Heucherella (Foamybells)


'August Moon'
'Blue Mouse Ears'
'Cracker Crumbs'
'Fragrant Blue'
'Golden Meadows'
'Golden Waffles'
'Great Arrival'
'Great Expectations'
'Ice Age Trail'
'Krossa Regal'
'Orange Marmalade'
'Pandora's Box'
'Queen Josephine'
'Risky Business'
'Stained Glass'

Metasequoia (Dawn Redwood)
'Gold Rush'

Tsuga canadensis (Canadian hemlock)
'Moon Frost'
'Summer Snow'
Man , I'm a bad typer and that took me forever. Dan


Dan's garden list
clipped on: 12.16.2014 at 11:14 pm    last updated on: 12.16.2014 at 11:15 pm

RE: i will miss the freak (Follow-Up #55)

posted by: don_r on 12.14.2014 at 05:15 pm in Hosta Forum

The garden of Eden must have been absolutely breathtaking before the fall of man. I imagine hostas growing in lush glades...without slug holes, frost damage, scortching, etc. They were evenly watered by a continuous dew from the ground.

The Lord promised the thief on the cross, "Today you will be with me in Paradise". The term "paradise" is an Old Persian word which means "garden" or "orchard". Jesus was linking the future glorious kingdom to the beauty of the original garden of Eden before the fall. Apparently, we will be tending God's wonderful garden again...once He creates a new heaven and a new earth..


Heaven on earth
clipped on: 12.15.2014 at 10:44 pm    last updated on: 12.15.2014 at 10:45 pm

RE: Evergreens (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: nckvilledudes on 02.14.2010 at 04:49 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

How about Otto Luyken laurels which have wonderful white blooms in the spring (mine would get at least 5 feet tall if I left them alone and didn't prune them), any of the wonderful yellow colored chamaecyparis (have a variety that is called a yellow mophead false cypress), and chindo viburnums which have red berries on them and can grow very tall. I second the weeping yaupon holly. I have one that is a monster and has berries the birds eat in the winter. What about the good old Nellie Steven hollies which have great red berries all winter long until the birds strip them off. I also second the regular glossy abelia that my neighbors have that stays green all winter and is a favorite of the butterflies all summer long. I have Abelia x grandiflora 'Sunrise' which has a mixed yellow and green leaf on the plant as well as flowers, although the neighbors standby glossy abelia tends to attract more butterflies than my variety does. There is a type of arborvitae which my neighbors have and that I had at a previous house but the name escapes me at the moment. The interesting thing about it is that it has limey colored foliage all growing season and in the winter it develops a golden coloration that is quite striking.


Evergreen shrubs
clipped on: 12.15.2014 at 10:18 pm    last updated on: 12.15.2014 at 10:18 pm

RE: Diatomaceous Earth (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: dhaven on 12.04.2014 at 09:15 am in Hosta Forum

DE is the single best slug killer available. I try to sprinkle it liberally on every new bed I make, and have virtually no slug problems.

You want the food grade DE without any additives, it's available at a very reasonable price from some feed stores and pool supply places. Just shake it on, spread it by hand, or put it in a talcum powder container or one of those pizza place parmesan sprinklers, and shake lightly over any infested plants, taking care to get it down into the stems. I also sprinkle it around plants, which keeps the slugs from getting to the hostas at all.

DE works because it is made up of the tiny exoskeletons of diatoms, which are microscopic aquatic animals. The tiny pieces are very sharp, and they pierce the skin of the slug and eventually kill it. DE is safe for songbirds, it is used as a wormer for livestock, including alpacas and domestic pets, and as a flea killer for dogs and cats. It is not good for your earthworms, but won't wipe them out, just slightly reduce the numbers.

Although DE is organic, non-toxic, and safe to handle without gloves, as with any fine particulate, avoid breathing it in as much as possible. One good application in the garden will last for many years. Some people claim that DE washes away in rain, and is therefore ineffective, but this is not the case--it gets into every nook and cranny and still deters slugs even if you can no longer see it. One of my original hosta beds at my current place is over 20 years old, got DE applied when I created the bed, and I've yet to see any slug damage to that bed. A bed 6 feet away that didn't get DE has slug damage every year.


Slug killer
clipped on: 12.05.2014 at 07:39 am    last updated on: 12.05.2014 at 07:39 am

RE: Countdown to dormancy zone 9a (Follow-Up #39)

posted by: Babka on 11.21.2014 at 10:56 pm in Hosta Forum

Mocc- We are tempered by the ocean and bay and mountains. Mediterranean is the best way to describe us. No storms, or really high winds. Citrus and olives and avocados grow here. We don't ever get really hot or really cold, but it doesn't rain here in from about April to the end of November. Then it piddles over the winter months. 9" -12" total rainfall for the year in a good year here. (only 3" last year) The occasional earthquake makes life interesting, but the last shakers I felt were in 1989.

This is Silicon Valley. Folks come here for the weather and scenery, not to grow hostas, that is for sure.



Silicon valley weather
clipped on: 11.22.2014 at 08:42 am    last updated on: 11.22.2014 at 08:42 am

RE: June in November (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: robotropolis on 11.09.2014 at 05:24 pm in Hosta Forum

Both look similar. Beni Kaze is bigger (30 in Nicolas is more like 20), faster growing. In my sun conditions I find Nicolas can get red tips earlier on, even in July. For me Beni Kaze stays pure green until it is ready to turn.

Actually, I have all three in this picture! (which i didn't notice until now)

Beni Kaze is fading a bit over to the left (purple circle) and Nicolas is in back almost totally red now (blue circle). My Beni Kaze is about 36" diameter.

The other two are Aureola and could easily be around 36". Nicolas is about half that size. All are AROUND the same age (around four years) so you can easily compare size, mind you the Nicolas gets less sun so it's not a fair comparison (but even the leaves are a little smaller).

This post was edited by robotropolis on Sun, Nov 9, 14 at 17:30


Macra all gold is on top right. 4 halons grasses in this picture.
clipped on: 11.12.2014 at 07:54 pm    last updated on: 11.12.2014 at 07:55 pm

RE: Photos of new bed and path (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: mikebotann on 11.08.2014 at 08:04 pm in Conifers Forum

Round rocks make good stream beds. Quarry rocks make good outcroppings.
I'm not burdened with placing rocks equidistant, but I have to catch myself placing plants the same distance apart sometimes. Especially if they are the same size. It's not fun going back and making corrections, but I don't hesitate when I realize my mistrake.

Alex, I too place my rocks as high up as I can get them, making sure they're right side up first, of course. Quarry rocks look good placed in lumpy strings on ridges leading to a headland formation if you can. Plants are planted between the rocks and not in front of them like most people do. The rocks are placed high because of settling, mulch, and groundcovers. It's actually hard to get them high enough to begin with because they stick out like a sore thumb before the mulch is added and the groundcovers grow. In some cases I've put them on top of broken concrete to get them high enough and stay there. It doesn't take long before they look 'settled in'. Rocks are expensive and a lot of knowledge and work to install correctly. You don't want to bury what you paid for.
Here's some rock work I did in my garden a few years ago. it needs enhancement now. The areas between the strings of rocks need to be dug out and lowered and I can use that topsoil to help raise some of the rocks to make the whole area more dynamic.
Rock garden photo 2303323230036511179.jpg


Rock placement
clipped on: 11.09.2014 at 08:10 am    last updated on: 11.09.2014 at 08:10 am

RE: New plantings today along the gold path (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: rouge21 on 07.10.2013 at 01:02 pm in Perennials Forum

'woody' wrote:

...and replace it with something gold-green. Another hosta would be easiest although I'd prefer a small shrub of some sort. I'm drawing a blank on possibilities so if anyone has another brilliant suggestion I'd be happy to hear it!

I have two suggestions and either would be (almost?) perfect. I have already mentioned to you about "Aralia Sunking". It positively glows in the shade; looks very healthy is pest free and doesn't spread...promise.
It is an herbaceous plant but it looks like it will reach about 4 foot by 4 foot for me.

Here it is as of this morning:

 photo Aralialarger_1_zps8b6d53ec.jpg

The other possibility is one of my favourite perennials. It is Persicaria "Golden Arrow". And unlike some other Persicarias it does not spread. Beautiful bright green foliage with the added bonus of beautiful long last red bottle brush like spires of flowers in late summer. Here is mine from last year.

The picture shows 2 plants and they are in what would be called dappled shade/sun i.e. very little direct sunlight.

Both ASK and GA like rich soil.

How can you resist either or maybe both of them ;) ?

 photo FavouritePersicaria_1.jpg


Sun King aralia
clipped on: 11.08.2014 at 10:48 pm    last updated on: 11.08.2014 at 10:48 pm

RE: My favorite companion plants. Let's see yours. (Follow-Up #45)

posted by: funnthsun on 08.29.2014 at 08:39 pm in Hosta Forum

I have a local garden center that I get a few things from, but most of my companion plants come from one of four sources:

Plant Delights (local for me but online as well) specializing in the unique, hard to find perennials, etc.

Lazy S's Farm (again, unusual perennials but regular, too)

Bluestone Perennials (great source, but hate the coir pots. I just remove them before planting.)

Santa Rosa Gardens

Hope that helps


Companion plants
clipped on: 11.05.2014 at 09:44 pm    last updated on: 11.05.2014 at 09:44 pm

RE: I could not help myself - Naylor Creek Hosta Library Auction (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: moccasinlanding on 09.02.2014 at 12:11 am in Hosta Forum

Hi DRC, here you go.....
Link below is to the Hosta Library main page.
Look midway down, there is a moving arrow pointing to the line HOSTA LIBRARY AUCTION....

click that link.

Below all types of items shown at auction, there are a few lines in smaller print. CHOOSE "NEW REGISTRATION" which will take you to the spot where new bidders can register to bid. Read the rules and come out bidding!

AFTER you place a bid, the Hosta Library will let you know if you WIN. You and the seller will get together on how you gonna pay. Most accept Paypal.

Have fun. Don't spend the lunch money!

Here is a link that might be useful:


Hosta auction instructions
clipped on: 10.29.2014 at 11:22 am    last updated on: 10.29.2014 at 11:23 am

RE: What kind of watering system do you use? (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: Dougald on 09.01.2014 at 07:40 am in Hosta Forum

Many good points have been made in this discussion including pointing to
- adequacy of natural rainfall
- hardness of water and need for maintenance
- placement of sprinklers or emiters
- benefits of conservation of water
- evils of overwatering
- use of mulch

A couple more considerations not mentioned so far relate to soil and to shade. Where soil is extremely sandy, water can drain through easily meaning it is almost impossible to overwater. The corollary of course is that heavy soils loaded with clay can easily become waterlogged.

Shade can also interfere mightily with natural rainfall. A heavy tree canopy can produce desert like conditions beneath even when there may be regular and reliable rainfall.

Mulching has been shown to help retain the water in the soil (as well as prevent weed growth) but as one early post mentioned, mulch has the nasty habit of harbouring slugs.

Taken altogether and applied to my situation ...

I have a ready source of lightly fertilized (from farm field runoff) water in a river that flows through the property so it costs nothing more than electricity to move it. The soil is extremely sandy and well drained - any excess water applied simply runs through the sand and percolates through nature's filter into the water table. The hosta gardens are under heavy shade mostly from eastern white pines and require water or nothing would grow in that desert.

Fighting slugs or fighting weeds is a subject for debate. I use mulch in gardens in full sun but with the hostas, I made a conscious choice to try to avoid slugs ... ergo no mulch. That combined with the falling needles has done a great job minimizing slug damage. But, it means generally a greater requirement for water and an ongoing (but generally very easy) task to keep any weeds removed. Most plants grow slowly or not at all in heavy shade so it is not much of a problem.

I installed sprinkler heads that deliver significant amounts of river water universally across the whole garden even on the flagstone walks from early June through mid september. Initially I tried setting it for 1 inch per week delivered all at once. This was an abject failure as the water ran down through the sand and everything was bone dry within hours. After a series of experiments that I won't bore you with, I settled on 1/2 inch every second day. This seemed to work well enough though the results were not spectacular. It should be noted that hostas are pretty tough and can tolerate most conditions even semi drought though clearly they grow faster and look more verdant under ideal conditions.

This year, using the adage that hostas can be drowned, I increased the watering to 1/2 inch daily. Now the results came in - all hostas showed tremendous growth, moss grew much better on all the granite rock and the garden has remained very attractive and healthy even this late (beginning of September) in the season.

The first frost is just around the corner (probably by mid September) so I will shut down and drain the sprinkler system in two weeks.

I don't think that any one approach will suit every garden. Each of us has to consider all the factors and make a choice which inevitably involves some compromises. About the only constant is that where nature does not provide sufficient rainfall, then the gardener must supplement it.



Irrigating sandy soil
clipped on: 10.26.2014 at 10:14 pm    last updated on: 10.26.2014 at 10:15 pm

Hosta Flowers 2014

posted by: mctavish on 10.07.2014 at 03:51 pm in Hosta Forum

I know I'm late to the party regarding flower pictures. It's been a weird year. I did take a lot of pictures of flowers in July and August. Here are some of my favorites. In general I'm not wild about the flowers and my attitude is that the sooner they are at least half way up the stem the sooner I feel justified to cut them off. Some are exceptional though I have to admit. My favorites in general are

Hirao Majesty
Rainbows End
Lakeside Lollipop
Island Charm

The fragrant ones are late (if ever) to bloom here so they don't rank high on my list though some are very pretty. Cathedral Windows still has a very nice bloom on it - Oct 6.

Below are some of the ones I like the best. There are others in the Hosta flowers file on my photostream on Flicker if you are interested.

Zippity Do Dah 7-20-14 (107)

Tickle Me PInk 8-8-14 (17)

Tickle Me PInk 8-8-14 (13)

Tequila Sunrise7-20-14 (90)

Sunny Delight 7-25-14   (64)

Stetson 7-20-14 (148)

Ruffed Up 7-20-14 (39)

Rainbows End 8-15-14  (37)

Permanent Wave 7-20-14 (62)

Marilyn Monroe 8-9-14  (63)

Leading Lady 7-20-14 (88)

Lakeside Lollipop 7-20-14 (66)


Island Charm 7-14-14 (52)

Hirao Majesty 7-20-14 (95)

Hirao Majesty 7-20-14 (97)

Hirao Majesty August 5

Great Expectations 7-7-14 (58)

Ginsu Knife

Frozen Margarita 8-11-14 (19)

Frozen Margarita

Fantaboulous 7-20-14 (52)


Emily Dickinson 8-11-14 (4)

El Nino 8-5-14  (2)

Cathedral Windows 8-8-14 (30)

Blue Haired Lady BL274E~1


Island charm
clipped on: 10.24.2014 at 09:03 pm    last updated on: 10.24.2014 at 09:03 pm

RE: "I can resist anything but temptation" (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: sandyslopes on 10.16.2014 at 12:47 am in Hosta Forum

Denis, my Teaspoon seems to enjoy some sun. It made a big leap when it started to get more after a big tree branch broke about two years ago, but it might have been due to make that leap anyhow, I don't know.

It gets dappled sun until the afternoon and then about 2-3 hours of full sun, ....for the time being, because the tree is working on a comeback. Funny thing is the two to either side didn't flourish with more sun.

I hope your Teaspoon, and all your other new ones, will do great for you. Give Satisfaction some room. It's been a fast grower for me.


clipped on: 10.16.2014 at 02:00 am    last updated on: 10.16.2014 at 02:00 am

RE: Hosta in Pots? (Follow-Up #31)

posted by: ilovetogrow on 09.30.2014 at 08:21 pm in Hosta Forum

Mocc I use pine fines. Get them from walmart and I have had no problem. I rather prefer a brand called Timberland. I would say that close to half of my mix is pine fines. I use them with the hostas, plumerias adenium well everything. It is a big part of my free flow drainage.

What I am going to tell you about watering for me: I water IF DRY in the winter. Last winter I had problems with drainage, now corrected and some of my plants sat in 2 to 3" of water. I figured them to be goners. Nope came back. I keep my plants comfy. My mix is loose and they do not stay wet wet as I only water to keep root ball happy. If it is 80 then everyone wants a cool drink. I do not tip due to the fact it rains here and I need to drain. Just watch your rain fall and temps especially when hot and make sure before frost or freeze check.

I will probably do things with my hosta that most people do not as I have what I call southern hosta. I enjoy the low care in the winter and will be repotting starting in mid Feb. I grow in pots as I have too many tree roots.


Ilovetogrow Paula on watering
clipped on: 10.02.2014 at 10:49 pm    last updated on: 10.03.2014 at 07:25 am

RE: Squash Casserole & progeny (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: moccasinlanding on 09.27.2014 at 05:57 pm in Hosta Forum

Santa, I get an inkling of your situation now. With all that tree cover, your hosta get less direct rainfall when it comes. They also compete with treeroots for rain and irrigation water. Evidently you give the trees enough water with the drip system too that they do not hinder your hosta.

I found a small hosta (it should have been much bigger), which I had sitting on the surface of a potted agnus castus vitex (false hemp tree). I picked up the pot, and discovered there was a huge strange root growing up into the pot from the tree, through the pot drain hole. Oh yeah! I would water the hosta, but not so much the tree. Now I know that can happen even in a potted situation. So pot feet are very appropriate.

As I begin demo on things around our house, I discovered the deck railing (which is to come down) has the 2x2 bannisters I suppose that is what you'd call them. They are of treated wood, and I can save them for pot feet. Each pair would support a whiskey barrel without succumbing to termites too quickly. But think about pot feet, assuring drainage without encroachment by tree roots.


Roots growing into pots.
clipped on: 09.27.2014 at 09:08 pm    last updated on: 09.27.2014 at 09:10 pm

RE: Hosta in Pots? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: bkay2000 on 09.23.2014 at 12:30 pm in Hosta Forum

I have kept hosta in pots for 20 or so years. I only got the "fever" about 5 years ago when my collection grew from the original four. We do not have excessively wet winters, but we usually have adequate rain. We have repeated thaws and freezes. A freeze will only last a couple of days at the most. More often, it freezes overnight and thaws in the afternoon. Like Mocc, I have a really long growing season. My hosta usually begin to pip in late February.

Generally, I leave my hosta where they sit. I don't tip them, or cover them or do anything except clean up the pots after the first freeze. They are all on a hard surface, with "pot feet". Usually, they do fine with this method. The problems I have had include:

1. Using "moisture control" potting soil caused rot in some of my younger plants. They stayed too wet in the spring when they were trying to come up.

2. Ditto above, but with homemade potting soil (3-1-1).

3. Not watering at all when we had extended periods without rain caused young ones roots to dry, shrivel and die. (I lost 20 last year.)

4. Started watering too soon in the early spring. The pots were wet, but the weather turned cold again and they wouldn't dry out. Again, rot on the young ones.

5. Potted hosta come up early (before the in ground ones). I usually have some cold damage as we get freezes after they emerge. You'll have to bring out the blankets or put them in the shed if a freeze is coming after they emerge.



Pot problems
clipped on: 09.24.2014 at 08:49 am    last updated on: 09.24.2014 at 08:49 am

RE: The Ones That Start With M... (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: bunnycat on 01.03.2010 at 03:24 pm in Hosta Forum

Metallica, to left of Kiwi Full Monty,and above Wolverine
Wolverine, Metallica, Kiwi Full Monty 2009

Medusa (at the bottom)
Medusa, Fr. Blue, PUDC, King of Hearts 2009


Line and color
clipped on: 09.15.2014 at 11:55 pm    last updated on: 09.15.2014 at 11:55 pm

RE: Companion plants: FERNS (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: steve_mass on 09.13.2014 at 12:34 pm in Hosta Forum

Some ferns run (Ostrich Ferns, Hay Scented Ferns) and some clump. I prefer the clumping type. Japanese Painted Ferns are great and also Lacy Ferns. Try Athryium 'Lady in Red' Athryium 'Ghost' and Dryopteris 'Brilliance'.

Below is a picture of Ghost.



clipped on: 09.14.2014 at 10:06 pm    last updated on: 09.14.2014 at 10:07 pm

RE: Woolly Mammoth Hosta anyone? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: mac48025 on 09.13.2014 at 08:03 pm in Hosta Forum

No real secrets bungalow. I start with good soil, equal parts sphagnum peat, topsoil, sand and compost. All my beds are raised 6-12". Lots of water. That's about it. I also use Deadline for slug control. It's the only chemical I use in the garden but after all the cutworm damage this year I might have to start treating for them also.

Your EA looks good and I bet it will double in size next year.


Macs no real secrets
clipped on: 09.14.2014 at 11:03 am    last updated on: 09.14.2014 at 11:04 am

RE: 2014 Aphrodite bloom scape watch is on (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: moccasinlanding on 09.06.2014 at 11:21 pm in Hosta Forum

Bruce, the camellia guys add gibberilic acid to make the blooms open. That would not work with hosta, or would it?
Sort of like some slippy slidy silicon to ease the opening.


Giberillic acid
clipped on: 09.07.2014 at 07:48 am    last updated on: 09.07.2014 at 07:48 am

RE: How do you keep your hosta's looking beautiful? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mac48025 on 08.19.2014 at 02:24 pm in Hosta Forum

I'm sure you'll get many suggestions and the truth is they probably all work. I use a simple approach. Good soil, raised bed, lots of water and deadline for slug control. It's the only chemical I use in the garden as I can't stand slug damage. It's not as easy to obtain as the ortho product but it works so much better. I fertilize in early spring with an organic fertilizer and try to place my hosta's in the best lighting as possible and I'm still learning which prefer more or less sun. I'm not saying mine is the only or best approach, but simple is best works for me.

Sounds like the hubby has been busy and you have a lot of new beds to plant. Have fun wandering the gravel paths!


Advice from a success and a nice pic
clipped on: 09.05.2014 at 08:26 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2014 at 08:26 pm

RE: What hosta's do you overlook? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: mac48025 on 09.05.2014 at 07:49 pm in Hosta Forum

The funny thing is, bungalow..... I didn't notice the beauty of this hosta until I saw a close up pic of it that someone posted and thought. " my bridal falls doesn't look that good". Upon closer did!

Some advice for you bungalow. Just buy any hosta you come across as just about all if them are worthy of having. Scary thought, huh?

Here's another I never fully appreciated. The bloom of Marilyn.


Bloom of Marilyn
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RE: My favorite companion plants. Let's see yours. (Follow-Up #39)

posted by: mac48025 on 08.29.2014 at 01:08 pm in Hosta Forum

Lol Don. Not a shrubbist, just a knight of nim.....wits

Here's a plant I just came across that has great color and texture. It's full sun in the north but I bet it gets big enough to cast enough shade for hosta's under it or use sun loving hosta's like Royal Standard next to it. Sambucus racemosa 'Lemon Lace'


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RE: The boyfriend crushed them! (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: idiothe on 06.01.2010 at 11:35 am in Hosta Forum

I spent the better part of an hour yesterday writing a response... then found it didn't get posted... we share a computer, so I think DW accidentally opened Jungle Jewels over my preview page...

So I'll do the short version. And, as Teresa said, I will be brutally honest. I would have sent this privately, but other young women will read this thread... so here I go...

I'm a retired counselor... thirty years in the saddle. You said "He just has no respect for my gardens and plants." It doesn't take Dr. Phil to know that means "He doesn't respect me."

This isn't about solving the gardening problem. Maybe he'll do it again, maybe he'll be more careful about running over your plants.

That's not what this is about.

This is a kid. He's not a man... he's a boy with big boys toys. He wanted to go play and wasn't willing to take the time to do it right. You are either an abused woman, or an abused-woman-in-training.

He treated you rotten. Then you think he tried to make it up to you without really apologizing.

I've talked with hundreds of women who told me the same story in hundreds of forms. He abused me - physically or verbally or with disrespect or with disregard for what I care about and who I am... but then he was nice and I forgave him... and then he did it again... but then he apologized again... and I'm sure I can change him... I'm sure I can change...

Three possible endings to the above scenario. One, a bad breakup. Two, a lifetime of living together with dissatisfaction, distrust, disrespect. Three, felony assault.

Either you need to dump him now... or face a worse break-up later... or you have to say your relationship is so valuable that both of you will commit to working on it, which means finding some sort of couples counseling. He doesn't need to learn to drive more carefully - he needs to learn to value you at least as much as he values himself.

No kidding - you described a train running down a damaged track leading to a dead end.


Get out
clipped on: 08.29.2014 at 11:29 pm    last updated on: 08.29.2014 at 11:29 pm

RE: The boyfriend crushed them! (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: franknjim on 06.02.2010 at 09:11 am in Hosta Forum

I know that it can be heart breaking to be disrespected over and over again while hearing the exact same apology and promise time after time. Even though it is the norm for those types of people to do those things, make those promises and then hurt you the same way again, it doesn't mean that you can't fix the problem and keep it from happening again.

My flower bed at the foot of the driveway would get the edge driven through. I complained everytime I saw it had happened. I am sorry, I promise, I'll never do it again. Well I know how that line works.

I took measures. I simply put in a line of red reflectors on white plastic posts. People usually put them at the street to mark the driveway. I lined them up every 12" in that flower bed. I only had to have them there for a year, none were hit with the car or broken.

If the arguement is staying the same when the incidents occur, change your thought process. Stop having that same discussion that you already know doesn't go anywhere. Make a new plan. You cannot beat common sense or respect into a person. They must be made to open their eyes and to see it for themselves in a way that they will understand it.

Your relationship is similar to your hosta garden. Both take a lot of work. You will have problems with both on occasion. Learn from it and work to make it bigger and better. He is your boyfriend now, maybe husband in the future. There will be 101 even bigger problems down the road. You both need to be able to get thru this hosta bed thing amicably. You can't just ignore it and wait for it to happen again and hear the same empty "I'm sorry".

You don't need to apologize to us for venting. We understand. Holding things in can cause even more problems. It creates resentment.

There are many different ways that the issue can be addressed. Not just with putting up barriers but also ones that can accomodate the both of your needs. If the two of you can work together to come up with an agreeable solution that will work for the both of you without taking anything away from the other, you will be on the right track.

I would be livid if I saw any of my hostas crushed under tires but it is easier to replace a hosta than it is to find real love. I would be extremely upset, I would vent on everyone, I would think up a plan then implement it. Crushed hosta is minor in comparison to the problems everyone encounters through their lives. If you can't make it through this problem then you probably won't make it through the big ones when they hit. And they will hit. They are tests of your resolve, your commitment, your relationship.

An idea that might work for the both of you. Make two paths through your hosta bed that are 12"-16" wide and spaced apart the same as the tires on the vehicle and on the trailer. Keep medium, large and giant hostas to the outsides of the paths and only plant minis and smalls in between and next to the paths. You could use any type of concrete paver, flagstone, cobblestone, railroad ties sunk flush with the ground or anything you wanted. If you could put in the paths for him while keeping the look of your hosta bed he would have his easy way out of the yard while your hostas remain uncrushed. I bet he would even help you with it since it would be a compromise between the hosta and the jetskis. You both win and can move on.

The easiest answer that is always given by almost everyone is to just walk away. Leave your love, leave your family, leave your life. It is so much easier to say and to do but it doesn't solve anything. You don't learn how to better handle a situation. Leaving should only be a last resort when repeated attempts to fix the problem fails. If you run away from everything all the time, you will never learn anything, you will never have a relationship that lasts. When you just walk away you take your problems with you. Maybe not the same problems with the same person but when you have a similar problem with someone new, you won't have the skills needed to work through it because you have been taught to leave and walk away from it.

You know what is in your heart for the man. That is how you decide how hard you really want to try to work the issue out. If everyone just walked away from their relationships over a problem like yours, no one would be together.

The way you put your heart into your hosta bed is the same way you must work on a compromise and on your relationship. You must make it grow, you must take care of it, you must protect it.


Stick it out!
clipped on: 08.29.2014 at 11:22 pm    last updated on: 08.29.2014 at 11:24 pm

RE: What do spray the soil with to kill Nematodes? (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: steve_mass on 08.25.2014 at 09:12 am in Hosta Forum

The recent research showed Immidocloprid (Merit) to be about 70% effective in killing Nems in the Lab. It also showed either H2O2 in Biosafe (Zerotol) or an ammonia and water solution to kill 100% of the nems.

I used the H202 regimen this Spring using a hose end sprayer. First wet the area with just water (soil and plant) before spraying.

1. Spray when the "bullets" are an inch or two out of the ground. Drench the soil around the targeted plants.

2. Spray one week later. Make sure you get all surfaces of the plant and drench the soil again.

3. Spray again after another week in the same way.

The only change I made in that schedule was to move the spraying time ahead if we had a high humidity or rainy day. I would spray right after the rain. The point is to kill the nems when they are on the plant surfaces and migrating from the crown and soil into the leaves. They do this when humidity is high or it is raining. They use water to move.

During the growing season I would spray with ammonia and water right after a rain. This, of course, controls slugs, but I would concentrate my attention on targeted plants making sure to get all plant surfaces.

I had about 8 plants that I targeted. On five of those I have not seen any evidence of nems at all. On three plants I have pulled off 2 or 3 leaves each with some damage. But the most important thing was in managing the damage. I've seen no spread of nems to any other plants this year.



More on nematodes
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RE: My favorite companion plants. Let's see yours. (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: mac48025 on 08.27.2014 at 08:07 pm in Hosta Forum

Ajuga Black Scallop


clipped on: 08.28.2014 at 10:21 pm    last updated on: 08.28.2014 at 10:22 pm

RE: one more question: dreaded nematodes (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: GaryZ6Ohio on 08.28.2014 at 06:56 pm in Hosta Forum

Question? Would you destroy a hosta if you saw slug damage or damage from cutworms? Nematodes are not a disease but a "bug" infestation. Treat them with Biosafe this Fall and again this Spring at the pip stage. This will probably clear up 99% of the problem. Most old established gardens have nematodes and the only problem would be if you give plants away. You should give the recipient fair warning that there may be nematodes.


clipped on: 08.28.2014 at 07:43 pm    last updated on: 08.28.2014 at 07:44 pm

RE: My favorite companion plants. Let's see yours. (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mac48025 on 08.27.2014 at 06:55 pm in Hosta Forum

Actaea Hillside Black Beauty and Heuchera Paprika


clipped on: 08.28.2014 at 07:29 pm    last updated on: 08.28.2014 at 07:30 pm

RE: Trying to keep my head on straight..... (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: ThistleAndMaize on 08.25.2014 at 12:40 pm in Hosta Forum

For iPhone and iPad users (I would assume Android is the same, but I don't use Android phones), it's recommended that you hold the phone so the Home button is on the RIGHT when taking a photo. Like the picture below. If you have a problem hitting the camera button in that position to take the picture, use the volume up button on the side - that takes a photo as well when the camera app is opened.
HOWEVER, I think people who post complaining about the orientation of the photos are wasting more time posting than necessary. Everyone has an opinion. That one is mine. :)


Which way to point it
clipped on: 08.25.2014 at 10:54 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2014 at 10:54 pm

RE: Here is a challenge for all of you........ (Follow-Up #51)

posted by: mac48025 on 08.20.2014 at 04:11 pm in Hosta Forum

Great pics and idea moc and Don. Hosta combos it is. From left to right. Sara's Sensation, Hyuga (something), Yellow Polka Dot Bikini and Wylde Green Cream with Earth Angel in the back.


Good Combo
clipped on: 08.21.2014 at 06:50 am    last updated on: 08.21.2014 at 06:51 am

RE: Hosta Blight (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: ctopher_mi on 07.03.2013 at 09:19 pm in Hosta Forum

Sorry to hear that it is that bad, but there is some hope.

#1 - there is absolutely no reason to dig up the plants. This fungus is only present in the top couple inches of soil, and does not get carried by the plant itself. You will want to scoop up all the goop and scoop up as much soil from around the crown as possible and throw that into the trash, then top with fresh soil. While there may still be fungus spores traveling around the garden you will want to eliminate as much of it as possible by hand, especially those orange spheres.

#2 - treat all the plants and the bed with a fungicide specifically labeled for southern blight. There is a bayer product that says it treats it, but use it at the highest recommended strength for best results (if it doesn't have the fertilizer added to it then personally I would use it two times and really soak the crowns and the area). There are other fungicides that work better but they are commercial products. Hopefully someone can list those here, because I don't have it written down myself. They can get a little expensive, but still a lot easier than digging and pitching. But in the long run the expense could be worth it as it is possible to eradicate southern blight with regular curative and preventative treatments.

So please don't go to all the trouble of digging anything out. That is never necessary as the fungus doesn't go below the soil and is never actually in the plant itself.

And even if you sprayed nothing at all, and just cleaned it up and let that area dry out, the hostas would likely come back fine, especially if they are older clumps.

I hope that helps, and if I have time I'll try to find out the other fungicides that work.

Good luck.



Southern blight
clipped on: 08.20.2014 at 03:09 pm    last updated on: 08.20.2014 at 03:10 pm

RE: Here is a challenge for all of you........ (Follow-Up #33)

posted by: funnthsun on 08.19.2014 at 09:34 pm in Hosta Forum

Well, everyone knows my favorite this year! I've posted it several times now.

June Fever & Peacock Spikemoss

Since most have seen my favorite, I'll post a couple of the runners-up

Spring Shower & Night Shift

Stained Glass

Rainbow's End and a freshly bloomed rain lily


clipped on: 08.20.2014 at 08:22 am    last updated on: 08.20.2014 at 08:23 am

RE: Aureomarginata Flowers Exploding! (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: evermore on 08.14.2014 at 11:24 am in Hosta Forum

Hi Mocc,

You have asked the key question, one we probably should take up on a separate thread. The quick answer is that Lowes is not a reliable source of information about nomenclature. They regularly mislabel hostas. Consider, for example the ones labeled: Plantain Lily.

Every hosta has both a species name (like Fortunei) and a cultivar name (like Fortunei Aureomarginata). When the cultivar goes by its Latin name, the name actually means something. Aureo means yellow or gold, marginata means margins or edges. There are several species with yellow-edged hostas, so we have venusta Aureomarginata, Fortunei Aureomarginata, ventricosa Aureomarginata, etc.

There is no hosta named simply Aureomarginata. We need a campaign to fight back against Lowes and the other big box stores who have no demonstrated interest in getting it right.

Sorry to sound like the old professor, but you asked.



clipped on: 08.18.2014 at 07:20 am    last updated on: 08.18.2014 at 07:21 am

RE: Cat threw up in washing machine (Follow-Up #64)

posted by: linda1949 on 07.24.2008 at 04:06 am in Home Disasters Forum

Not a puking story but a cat story. In the middle of the night my husband started screaming. I turned on the light to see blood spurting from his eye. It seems the cat had tried to jump up on the headboard and missed but her claws caught my DH across one eye. I grabbed a towel to stop the bleeding and rushed him to the ER. Fortunately the eye was fine but the eyelid was slit completely open. I took a long walk when the needle came out so they could do stitches. Every day his eye looked worse. He was finally sent to an infectious disease specialist because it was thought he had cat scratch fever. The doc said he was just over medicating it with too much cream from the ER. He missed 2 weeks of work. No one could believe he wasn't mad at the cat. We had her for 6 more years until a very large bird carried her off the deck one summer day.


Cat story
clipped on: 08.16.2014 at 07:31 am    last updated on: 08.16.2014 at 07:32 am

RE: Recommend Giant Hostas (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: papou on 02.01.2009 at 01:05 pm in Hosta Forum

Sum and Substance, Elegans, Parhelion, Frosted Jade, Titanic, Sun Power are all giant (huge) that can take lots of sun, and will grow over 70" in diameter:



Sun Power

Frosted Jade



clipped on: 08.16.2014 at 07:12 am    last updated on: 08.16.2014 at 07:12 am

RE: Virus confirmation (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: ctopher_mi on 08.13.2014 at 11:04 pm in Hosta Forum

Repeated research has shown that HVX is very stable and long lived outside of the host. It can remain infective for up to 3 weeks on unwashed tools and surfaces from sap contamination and can survive in the soil for over 2 years from even the tiniest bit of root particles. HVX can also remain infective in dead leaves and dead roots so that's why it is so important to remove as much of the plant, roots, and surrounding soil as possible before replanting a hosta there.

HVX is a very long lived plant virus outside of the host plant which is part of why it has spread so quickly and easily in the past 15 years since it showed up in mass production.

Sorry to see it on your plants :(



clipped on: 08.14.2014 at 06:03 am    last updated on: 08.14.2014 at 06:03 am

RE: Squash Casserole Blooming (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: bkay2000 on 08.12.2014 at 12:55 pm in Hosta Forum

Sunny, your photo is sideways. That's what Ken is talking about using the phrase "which way to hold your technology". It appears right to you and other tablet users, but is sideways to anyone on a laptop or desktop that is not using Windows 8. If I use Chrome, I can click on it and it will right itself in another window, but I really don't like Chrome.

I never use my tablet for anything other than reading, but I have read that if you hold the device with the button on the right, your photos will be right side up.

You're not the only one to post sideways and upside-down photos. I will generally just skip threads with those kinds of photos, as they drive me crazy, but Squash Casserole is one of my current favorites.



How to hold iPhone for picks
clipped on: 08.12.2014 at 10:38 pm    last updated on: 08.12.2014 at 10:38 pm

RE: Pineapple Upside Down Cake Needs Help (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ken_adrian on 08.07.2014 at 09:14 am in Hosta Forum

no.. i hate the name ... it worse than all the lakesides ...


yes.. its in TOO MUCH SUN .. it MIGHT ... continue to melting out.. because of such.. and if it does.. dont come running back and asking what that disease is ... as babs said.. its all normal ..

move it to a spot .. where it is out of sun from noon to 6 ... out of the sun.. during the heat of the day ...

and use that logic for anything with a large white center ...

the white tissue is a net drain ont eh plant.. producing no chlorophyll .... and on some level.. the plant cant pump enough water to sustain it.. when siting is not proper ...

so when this happens... move it to a little more shade ...



White centers in sun
clipped on: 08.07.2014 at 09:02 pm    last updated on: 08.07.2014 at 09:04 pm

RE: Seeds (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: jonnyb023 on 08.02.2014 at 09:14 am in Hosta Forum


Most seedlings are solid colored unless you selectively pollinate them. This is how you selectively pollinate hosta-

'Preparing the pod parent

In order to prevent the pollination of the selected flowers by natural agents such as bees the plant has to be emasculated. Before attempting this it is essential to study hosta flowers in order to know exactly when they are going to open, because it is necessary to catch the flower in the late afternoon of the day before it opens - that is, while it is still in bud but almost ready to open. The procedure is first to slit open the bud carefully, exposing the sex organs without damaging them, and then to cut away the petals and sepals. The final step is to locate the anthers and to cut them away without damaging the stigma. The removal of the petals and sepals deprives insects of a landing platform and makes it most unlikely that they will try to effect pollination, while the removal of the anthers eliminates any likelihood of self-pollination. Wind pollination is unlikely anyway since hosta pollen is heavy.

Gathering and storing pollen

Pollen is the medium in which the male gamete is transferred to the female. It is by its very nature short-lived and sensitive to changes in temperature. When the pollen of hostas is ripe and ready to use it has a powder-like texture. What governs its viability is enzyme activity, which is mainly temperature-controlled: the pollen needs a reasonable amount of heat to ripen, but in too much heat its viability deteriorates rapidly. The workable range would seem to be between 18°C (65°F) and 29°C (85°F), with an optimum of about 24°C (75°F).

Because it is so sensitive to temperature, it is important that pollen is gathered at the right time: too early in the day and the ambient temperature will not be high enough, too late in the afternoon or evening and the temperature will have fallen too low again. Mid-morning seems to be the time of optimum enzyme activity, but by this time of day the bees may have already got there and taken the pollen. For this reason it is better to gather the anthers, bearing their pollen, reasonably early in the day. The anthers should then be taken indoors, placed in the dark and allowed to come up to the optimum temperature before being either harvested or used.

Pollen may be used as soon as it has reached a suitable temperature, or it may be stored in folds of low-grade white paper, on which the source of the pollen can easily be written. It helps to fold the paper first and then open it out, tap the pollen into the middle section and refold it. The paper containers can then be stored in a refrigerator (not a freezer, which is far too cold) and will remain viable for the rest of the season and often into the early part of the following one. This of course means that one can mate hostas that do not naturally flower at the same time.

Transferring the pollen

The actual moment of mating is achieved when the pollen from the male anthers is transferred to the female stigma, which becomes moist and slightly swollen when it is at its most receptive: once it forms a dew-drop it is too late. The simplest and most natural way to do this is to brush the pollen-laden anthers across the slightly sticky stigma, thereby leaving a deposit of pollen on it. This of course is only possible when the anthers and stigma are in season at the same time.

Where stored pollen has to be used, a fine camel-hair or sable brush will be needed. Pollen is delicately taken on to the tip of the brush, which is then wiped across the stigma. Each cross should be made using a different brush, and the brushes should be cleaned afterwards in methylated spirits. As the brush then has to dry before use, it is practical to have a whole batch of brushes to work through before having to clean them. Another technique is to use a wisp of cotton wool held by tweezers to transfer the pollen, using a fresh piece of cotton wool for each mating.

Successful crossing

Some hostas are much more difficult to cross than others. H. plantaginea and some of its offspring are notorious for rejecting the pollen of other hostas. One technique that has been found successful is to use H. plantaginea pollen round the rim of the stigma, and the pollen of the parent you want to cross in the centre of the stigma.

Many breeders believe that there is no need to do anything further to defend the stigma once the cross has been made as the pollen takes only an hour and a half to reach the ovary. However, it is not unknown for bees to come and steal the pollen off the stigma after it has been put there. The simplest defense against this is to slip a short length of drinking straw over the anther. This can be removed the next day.'

If your seeds are 'mated' naturally I think neighboring hosta have a better chance of being the 'parent', but there is no practical way to know except after the fact.


Here is a link that might be useful: Hybridizing hosta


clipped on: 08.03.2014 at 08:32 am    last updated on: 08.03.2014 at 08:32 am

RE: Hosta Genealogy (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: jonnyb023 on 06.23.2012 at 10:18 am in Hosta Forum


I used to be plagued with Red Leaf Lilly Beetles until I learned that the biggest problem is they generate from eggs in the ground. Spraying the beetles on the leaves of the lily is an exercise in frustration as they quickly regenerate in the soil.

Early application of Bayer Systemic has taken care of the Red Leaf Beetle problem for me.



Red leaf beetle cure
clipped on: 08.02.2014 at 10:01 am    last updated on: 08.02.2014 at 10:01 am

RE: show some free seeding companions (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: irawon on 07.08.2014 at 06:32 pm in Hosta Forum

Moc, here's another free seeding perennial that is supposed to be good up to zone 9: campanula carpatica.. there's also a white flowering one. I haven't tried campanula persicifolia (taller) with my hostas but it is pretty. I would stay away from campanula glomerata though, because I find it invasive...unless you have an area where you can contain it.


Campanula carpatica
clipped on: 08.01.2014 at 08:09 am    last updated on: 08.01.2014 at 08:09 am

RE: What hostas are looking good in your garden today? (Follow-Up #33)

posted by: DelawareDonna on 07.28.2014 at 10:19 pm in Hosta Forum

My Grove of Fried Bananas


clipped on: 07.28.2014 at 11:50 pm    last updated on: 07.28.2014 at 11:50 pm

RE: What hostas are looking good in your garden today? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: ruth_mi on 07.28.2014 at 08:38 pm in Hosta Forum

Your hostas all look so fresh! Mine are already getting a little ragged from slugs, etc.

This one's Gold Standard (OS).


Great shape
clipped on: 07.28.2014 at 10:29 pm    last updated on: 07.28.2014 at 10:30 pm

RE: What hostas are looking good in your garden today? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: coll_123 on 07.28.2014 at 02:07 pm in Hosta Forum

Mine are starting to go downhill fast with slug damage and it wont be long before the nematodes show up, boo.

 photo july28_zps0518410e.jpg

Emerald Ruff Cut after the rain...not too many brown spots this year
 photo emeraldruffcutjuly28_zps0735bc11.jpg

High Society
 photo highsociety_zps8f8d8878.jpg

Risky Business looking clean and sharp
 photo risskybpopcorn_zpsb6f1b553.jpg

Thunderbolt and Loyalist
 photo thunderboltloyalistjuly27_zpsc96986f1.jpg


Thunderbolt & Loyalist
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RE: Front yard photos to share. (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: Eleven on 07.19.2014 at 01:55 am in Hosta Forum

I think Kathy nailed it with the five year project description! Most of my garden beds seem to be on that time plan.

The first year I lay out my design and plant everything I have for it.

The second year, I'm impatient for all the small stuff to grow and already noting some unappealing plantings and unhappy plants.

Then the third year, I move some plants elsewhere, shift some to make room for the new modified design, add new plants, and leave the rest where they were.

The fourth year, I watch the new growth, pat myself on the back for it almost working, and make a list of what needs to be moved in the bed. I'm doing this right now with a lilac bed; the bloom colors and times are all great but plant height is a little wonky.

I now have a couple beds ready for year five, which is to swap plants around based on actual growth and replace a consistent underperformer.


A five year plan
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RE: Hostas for lots of sun (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: bluerose007 on 07.15.2014 at 06:47 am in Hosta Forum

Osiris Soleil Levant in full sun all day.


Full sun
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A hosta trio just for Funn

posted by: moccasinlanding on 07.13.2014 at 03:44 pm in Hosta Forum

This started in another thread, but now has one of its own.
I like to rearrange hosta pots, and sometimes it strikes me there are trios I can group together for nice display.

This time, I'm looking for a third to go with Luna Moth and Goodness Gracious. With these two, it is the central pattern which is obviously shared. .

I thought originally the third could be Summer Lovin. But when I moved that one into the mix, it made Luna Moth the odd one that did not match the other two. So here is Luna Moth sitting it out on the sidelines, while Summer Lovin, Goodness Gracious and Summer Breeze form the trio.

The same three choices with Luna Moth out of the frame almost.

I'm trying to find the "bridge" hosta that will allow me to keep Luna Moth, which has such a distinctive midleaf, and I don't find it in the variegated hosta here in the garden.

Please make a suggestion for the trio.

Plus, if you have a planting of three varied hosta would you share the picture with us? It is easier with pots to play with arrangements, because in ground planting is so committed!
I think that is one reason folks move hosta so many times, don't you? Something about the arrangement is just a teensy bit OFF, somehow, if you know what I mean.

My really successful trio for Three Graces is June, English Sunrise, and Teatime....all related with same color intensity.
Different leaf patterns though. Here is a current photo of my Three Graces, which I have set as my wallpaper.

Hope you join the search, Funn, along with others who like a good visual exercise.


Three Graces
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RE: Pics of the new project...shoot me now (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: funnthsun on 07.12.2014 at 09:06 am in Hosta Forum

The soil is not nearly as bad as I thought that it would be. It has some clay, but it's pretty loose, mostly. We were quite surprised to see anything but clay. We'll be bringing in 36 yards of new soil, 12 of that is going to be aged manure, and tilling won't be bad b/c it's already been turned over and is loose. We also have access to a bobcat, as you can see, so that is the easy part!

Hard part is being patient when you can't get out there and just do it yourself, but you're waiting on someone else. There is a lot of steps to go through this year to get to where I want to be by winter time. Patience is a virtue...sigh.

Bkay, yes, it's a new hybrid, Merlin Majic. It has maroon-colored foliage, a real beauty. I'll have to go out and sniff one of them, it's blooming right now. Didn't even know Mimosas had a scent, I've never noticed it and the in-laws, where they have several of the standard ones. Hmmmm. I've wanted Mimosas for years, but didn't want to deal with the seedlings. I'm pretty excited about these. They are VERY hard to find, but I stumpled on two of them locally.


Merlin Malik mimosas
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RE: My garden this morning (Follow-Up #33)

posted by: irawon on 07.04.2014 at 05:12 pm in Hosta Forum

I know mocc, Spiderwort, especially the blue and pink ones seed pretty freely, even in our walkways. I have to keep after them or they would take over the whole yard. The yellow-leaved variety,'Sweet Kate' is infertile, I think... I've only been able to propagate it by clump division. It's flowers are a deeper shade of blue too.


Infertile spider wort
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RE: Post your Rhino Hide Pictures (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: don_r on 08.27.2012 at 08:03 pm in Hosta Forum

Rhino Hide will stay quite blue if it's sited in a fair amount of shade. If grown in bright sunlight, the blue will turn green and the center will brighten up...just like most hostas would do.

As far as the variegation pattern, the tc plants vary somewhat...I've noticed some tc plants which have a narrow gold center (like the OS stock) while others have a wide gold center, and still others exhibit very dramatic gold streaking throughout the leaf. I suspect there will be less noticeable differences, however, when these tc plants begin to mature, but only time will tell.

The growth rate is moderate to slow...but not as slow as Tokudama Aureonebulosa. It is a dependable grower, however...not finicky like Great Expectations. If your Rhino Hide has not sent out multiple eyes in every direction, don't worry. From what I've seen, single-eye Rhino Hide plants often remain as a single eye for 2 or 3 years. Then a second and third eye will sprout. At that stage, Rhino Hide will begin to add more eyes readily.

To speed up the growth, I recommend siting your young Rhino Hide in full sun, or at least bright indirect sunlight. Water and fertilize it well. Then after a few years, after it has developed into a nice-size plant, move it to a somewhat shadier location where it will maintain the powdery deep-blue appearance and look superb.


How to grow rhino hide
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RE: First Forum Post (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: bejoy2 on 03.28.2011 at 10:20 pm in Hosta Forum

As a suggestion, perhaps you should pot the hostas up in 1- or 2-gallon pots and place them in their pots where you are thinking of planting them (remember that the pots add height to the plants, so you might want to dig the pots in so the plant is at ground level). You'll notice qualities of each hosta - such as rate of growth, size of leaves, texture, color, etc., and see how they work (or don't work) together. If it works, great - if it doesn't, you can move it. Best yet, you can move plants between sun and shade to see how light exposure affects color and variegation.

As a general rule, taller plants should be placed at the rear of the garden bed, and shorter plants should be placed in the front of the bed. Plants that are grouped together look best in groups of odd numbers (1, 3, 5, 7, up to about 9, when the eye loses focus). When grouping plants, refer to the spacing recommendations, but don't feel you have to adhere rigidly to them - it's OK to place the plants closer than the recommended spacing, but probably not to spread them too far apart, or the eye regards them as separate plants instead of a group.

Don't plant hostas with different variegations, colors or patterns too close together. Green is considered a neutral color in landscaping, and is a good background color for a variegated hosta. In general, blue colors soothe, while yellow excites. Try placing a blue hosta near a yellow hosta to see if the colors complement each other or clash. A yellow hosta can brighten a blue hosta, but then again, a blue hosta can make a yellow hosta look dull. And what looks good in the sun may not work as well in the shade.

Culturally speaking, most blue hostas need more shade and many yellow (and fragrant) hostas require more sun. Some yellow hostas change colors depending on light exposure, or as the season progresses - some become more yellow (lutescent) and some become more green or chartreuse (viridescent). Some creamy variegation becomes white (albescent) as a result of exposure to light.

Go to the library and look at landscaping books to get some ideas. Then start moving plants around, mixing and matching them, experimenting with combinations, and by the time fall rolls around, you ought to have a pretty darn good idea of where you want to plant them permanently.

Here is a link that might be useful: Landscaping with Hostas


Basic planning info
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RE: Rob's Lakeside Hostas (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: hey_j on 06.24.2011 at 07:00 pm in Hosta Forum

Okay--I got my hosta from Rob today--a very fast ship, too!
I am delighted to have such a wonderful looking 'L.S. Prophecy'
and these others, too:

Lakeside Acres' Hosta order

I might add, the roots filled every glass they were in--to the top! Rob knew what I wanted, as per our conversations
and my $$ limit. I wanted, above all 'L.S. Prophecy' and I asked him to choose from what I liked that would fit within
my limitation! I am very happy with his choices for me and it was really fun to do it that way!

A very positive experience on my end and I hope he enjoyed 'the game' with me allowing him to have free-reign in
choosing for me--I think he might have! ;o)



Lakeside hosta email address in picture.
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RE: Extra large yellows (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: jennaj_z4mn on 09.03.2013 at 12:49 pm in Hosta Forum

Here is a pic of my Sutters Mill this spring--it is a fast grower and everyone comments on it--its a standout!!!


clipped on: 07.05.2014 at 12:50 am    last updated on: 07.05.2014 at 12:50 am

RE: Extra large yellows (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: ninamarie on 09.06.2013 at 08:56 am in Hosta Forum

I love Harriette Ward. She is very slug resistant, has a nice form, and stands out in the garden. I've been interplanting a hosta garden recently with yellow hosta, and she stands out in the bunch. Very classy pale yellow without a hint of brassiness.


Big yellow
clipped on: 07.05.2014 at 12:49 am    last updated on: 07.05.2014 at 12:50 am

RE: What could be wrong with my hostas? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: moccasinlanding on 07.03.2014 at 07:19 pm in Hosta Forum

Got a newsletter today from Made In The Shade hostas. I'm going to quote, because I don't want to mess it up.

This year we also have the perfect setup for Southern Blight - lots of rain that is followed immediately by hot temperatures. If you see hosta petioles that flop over at the base, it is likely the result of a fungus called Southern Blight. The fungus eats away the tissue at the base of the petiole so the petiole pulls away easily from the clump. You may also notice beige colored "mustard seeds" at the base of the clump and a white thread like mycelium. Quick action can save the clump. Apply a fungicide product that contains tebuconazole as a soil drench. The product is contained in a number of Bayer fungicide products that are commonly available at box stores, hardware stores and garden centers.
[end quote]

Thought this might be helpful. Don't think I have southern blight just yet, but it is bound to come sooner or later.


What's wrong with hostas
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RE: Black bugs attacking everything(picture) (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Jonathan29 on 03.17.2014 at 11:41 pm in Garden Clinic Forum

All i can say is use this organic recipe on the plants once a week for the first month then twice every month and they will leave your plants alone no matter what the bug. bees and butterfly's are unaffected by it because they don't eat the plant its self.
1tps-2tps organic garlic cloves or paste in water
1tps organic black strap molasses
1tps-2tps organic water soluble fertilizer in liquid form is best.
mixed for 1 gallon of water
spray on leaves give them a good misting late in the day or early in the morning before you water.

If you found this info helpful please check out my youtube channel i will be posting helpful videos on things just like this in the future =) have a nice day and happy growing!

Here is a link that might be useful: TheItalian Garden

This post was edited by Jonathan29 on Mon, Mar 17, 14 at 23:43


Homemade insect repellant for plants.
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RE: Talk about a smart phone! (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: moccasinlanding on 06.14.2014 at 03:56 pm in Hosta Forum

BK, were you commenting about the paper wrapping for Carnival? It was wrapped in uncoated paper on arrival, all the others were wrapped in it without any damage. I haven't figured out what caused the cooked spinach look. It has two small new leaves growing on it as of this morning. I know it will make it, just hope it isn't tiny. I have enough like that.

Funn, I have FlickFolio which is the only app working with Flickr these days. The one built into PaintShopPro X6 quit working for whatever reason after they updated the software. So I use the online Flickr uploader after I put all the proper tags to each photo. I either add tags using PSPx6 or Windows Live Photo Gallery for names and tags.
I have so many photos on my computer it helps to have the tags on the originals before I do a backup.

The photo format is still JPG but the audio must increase the file size of the JPG. As long as people can click the thumbnail and see the big picture, it will work until I find a solution to that issue. One thing at a time, patience is a virtue, although it would be nice to have it RIGHT NOW. :)

Yes indeed, I like the phone. However, I will not be using the ISIS wallet. I don't like all those people dipping into my pocketbook.


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RE: how often do u water? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: gardenweed_z6a on 06.07.2014 at 05:44 pm in Hosta Forum

Never. My garden gets adequate rainfall that keeps just about everything (even astilbe) adequately watered without help from me.

Something newly planted or recently divided will get a recycled cat litter jug of water following planting: a pinhole poked an inch from the bottom of the jug, jug filled with water which exits pinhole at base of plant. Water remaining in jug below pinhole prevents jug from blowing around in the wind. Frugal gardener's repurposing & irrigation system.


Watering with old plastic jugs
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RE: Liberty will win over a Hosta 'fence sitter' ? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: hmacflower on 11.08.2012 at 07:52 pm in Hosta Forum

Yes! Liberty is one of my favorites...a beauty! Primula for spring, campanula persisfolia (blue) for summer and
Sunrise echinacea for fall make good companions.


Companion plants for Liberty.
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RE: I'm getting tired of my daylilies now (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: crunchpa on 07.17.2013 at 10:13 pm in Perennials Forum

I agree with some of the daylily negativity. But they make a great groundcover for large spaces, and a cheap solution for a mass planting. As specimens individually, not so much. Weeds are no match for a thick patch of Hyperion daylilies so I look at them as a time saver. I chop them down early Sept and the foliage comes back fresh and not so full. It offers 3 months of a better look. I chop stellas in early August and in a short time they are looking like spring


Trimming daylilies
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RE: Lakeside Black Satin--What's the deal... (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: Gesila on 05.29.2014 at 09:56 am in Hosta Forum

I have a ton of hostas in pots that look like that, they're all in pots.

James, if yours isn't in a pot, my guess that it's planted too deep and/or sitting where water doesn't drain well.

Maybe Ken will chime in and give his 2 cents.



Description of waterlogged.
clipped on: 05.30.2014 at 12:16 am    last updated on: 05.30.2014 at 12:16 am

Lakeside Black Satin--What's the deal...

posted by: jimr66 on 05.29.2014 at 07:44 am in Hosta Forum

Here is my Lakeside B.S. (I think the shortened version of the name may be more appropriate.....)

This is 2nd time I've tried this plant the first one succumbed to crown rot last spring.

I saw a relatively mature one at Gardens Plus a few years ago and was impressed with the actual black undertones in the leaf.

everything else in this garden is rockin' I think it actually shrank (it was a very small division) and it's barely moved since april.

Is this one of those "tricky hostas"?

If anyone has experience with this plant I would be glad for any insights.

Cheers, James


The look of waterlogged.
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1000's Gold Standard in one hillside bed for impact

posted by: brucebanyaihsta on 01.13.2009 at 10:07 pm in Hosta Forum

This is Doris and Wayne Guymon's home in Chadds Ford PA, 2006, AHS National Convention garden tour.

Great story on this bed of 'Gold Standard'

I believe these plants have been in place since early 1980's - and yes it has stayed practically all true to Gold Standard with very few revisions to fortunei Hyacynthina

Wayne Guymon 'Gold Standard' bed 2006

Most clumps were 2-3 feet across



Beats ivy?
clipped on: 05.23.2014 at 10:56 pm    last updated on: 05.23.2014 at 10:56 pm

RE: What's up in Summerfield, NC (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: Don_in_Colorado on 04.10.2014 at 11:32 pm in Hosta Forum

I like the way your undulatta is growing, kind of growing in separate clumps close to, but not INto each other. By the time they fill in the spaces between them, you'll have a bit of an unruly clump, but with the twisty twisty leaves I think it'll look A+. Sort of a controlled unruly. Just my opinion.

Nice Work!
Don B.


Undulata observation by Don
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RE: Question about Risky Business Hosta (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: babka on 05.04.2012 at 09:51 pm in Hosta Forum

With respect to the one in a pot...Hostas are DIFFERENT in pots. Repot your potted one in a pot that just contains the roots. When the roots grow out of the drain holes, up pot it up ONE size. Otherwise, roots will rot, trust me, I found out the hard way and lost a bunch. You don't need to disturb the roots when you pot it up to the next size pot. Just take that formed root mass and plop it into a pot about 2" greater in diameter.



Potted hostas
clipped on: 05.11.2014 at 09:03 am    last updated on: 05.11.2014 at 09:03 am

RE: Hosta Identification (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: josephines67 on 04.18.2014 at 06:48 pm in Hosta Forum

TNsunshine... Last night I visited the Reading Room on the Hosta Library site. I read every article but one that I got immersed in was the interview with Mary Chastain. That article really raised my level of awareness for the Lakeside series. I thought you might like to see it - and read at your leisure. I've attached a link for you and anyone else that's interested, if they haven't seen it before.


Here is a link that might be useful: Mary Chastain interview


clipped on: 04.18.2014 at 10:47 pm    last updated on: 04.18.2014 at 10:48 pm

RE: Post Mortem (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: Babka on 04.11.2014 at 11:23 pm in Hosta Forum

Those brown papery sleeves are rot. Hose it off (full force) more to remove anything brown, and then stick it in 10% Clorox and water for about 5 minutes, then re-pot and keep your fingers crossed. Nothing to lose and certainly worth a try. My wonderful Invincible, that I have had for so many years, began like that. ;-)



Treatment for rot
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RE: h. Big Daddy (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: jimr66 on 04.08.2014 at 07:10 pm in Hosta Forum

1 of my favorites, the leaves on mature plants look they are molded out of plastic, kinda trippy actually. They take a long time to mature. As with most sieboldiana types they do not like being moved. to keep the bloom nice and blue on them it's best not to give them to much direct sun. heres mine (before I moved it) now it doesn't look as good perhaps now in it's third year since he move it will look like this again.


Beautiful pic of Big Daddy
clipped on: 04.09.2014 at 08:56 pm    last updated on: 04.09.2014 at 10:30 pm

RE: %^&#@*& Deer (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: gottagarden on 04.05.2014 at 09:34 pm in Hosta Forum

Here's something different. I use woven wire fence, laid on the ground. NOT stapled to posts. It creates a mesh that is apparently unpleasant for the deer because their feet go through the fence and it makes for very uneasy footing. It is laid on the ground, which makes it virtually invisible from a distance. Except that I use a rock or 4x4 sections to keep the fence elevated off the ground a couple inches which makes it dicey for deer feet. I know it sounds strange, but it really works!

I have terrible deer, and I have tried all the sprays, mothballs, soap, hair, etc. this really works. Does not need to be reapplied. It is invisible from a distance, and even up close. I have to warn people it is there. Got a photo but can't seem to upload right now.


Flat fencing for deer
clipped on: 04.06.2014 at 08:06 am    last updated on: 04.06.2014 at 08:06 am

RE: No Pips? How About Your Favorite Memory Photo? (Follow-Up #51)

posted by: unbiddenn on 04.04.2014 at 11:49 pm in Hosta Forum

Peony 'Do Tell', came back from a piece of root left in the ground after I gave the mother plant. Don, those ferns get absolutely no direct sun, but are in bright light, against a north wall. It stays moist there, but I have more Japanese planted in dry shade under a blue spruce, totally ignored and equally as large in deep shade. The autumn ferns did not do well in dry soil deep shade for me.


Fern habitat
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RE: %^&#@*& Deer (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: brucebanyaihsta on 04.03.2014 at 09:58 am in Hosta Forum

Make your own liquid fence.

Here is what we have used for years, provided by a Pennsylvania Christmas tree grower who used it successfully under high deer pressure.

2 eggs fully beaten and mixed in a gallon of water, add hot chili pepper and garlic to season ( yes it smells like a poor man's caesar salad when applied) .

Apply by spraying from a hand bottle or backpack every week! If it rains it may have to be resprayed.

One caveat; add the garlic and pepper to deter skunks and raccoons, who like the egg solution as it rots.

Second caveat; if you miss a few weeks and the deer are around they will remind you that you missed them!



Homemade liquid deer fencing.
clipped on: 04.04.2014 at 09:43 pm    last updated on: 04.04.2014 at 09:44 pm

RE: Your Favorite Mildred Seaver Introductions? (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: mctavish6 on 03.25.2014 at 10:45 am in Hosta Forum

Josephine, here is the area of the garden where I have Komodo Dragon. The Black Hills, Maui Buttercups and Cherub have always been there. The other ones are often moved around. The second picture shows a couple of the moves later last summer. I can see already that I'll be moving the border forward to get a little more room in this prime growing spot. Eventually Climax will have to move too. Who needs lawn?


6-13-13  bb~1


McTs Komodo Dragon bed
clipped on: 03.27.2014 at 06:23 am    last updated on: 03.27.2014 at 06:24 am

RE: Eyes be up! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: zkathy on 03.15.2014 at 08:11 am in Hosta Forum

I'll be giving a report from the central Piedmont of North Carolina later this evening. I saw a half inch pip on Guacamole on Wednesday and covered it up because a freeze to 26f was predicted for Thursday night. I also put half a jar of Vicks Vaporub around the garden.

But now the forecast has a few nights dipping just below freezing in the next few weeks. So what do I do today? Uncover the pips and leave them exposed? How about that 10 percent ammonia drench? Is now the time? And then at what predicted low do I have to go out and cover them?

I've never done anything to my legacy hostas except notice they were up. It's also our favorite way to manage animal reproduction as in "oh, look! A baby goat!"
Thanks in advance for the advice.


clipped on: 03.15.2014 at 08:27 am    last updated on: 03.15.2014 at 08:27 am

Where to buy Hosta

posted by: steve_mass on 04.15.2012 at 12:45 pm in Hosta Forum

I hope that title is searchable. I think it's the responsibility of those of us who know about HVX (and nems) to inform the Hosta buying public about safe and unsafe sources. Since the large wholesale growers seem to think that 5% diseased plants are an acceptable amount, we will continue to see HVX plants for sale at local nurseries, big box stores, plant sales and other questionable sources. So lets create a thread where we can send people when newbies need to know how to buy healthy plants.

Rules: Post your favorite sources. Give links if you can, and tell why you like them. I believe there are two safe kinds of places to buy; reputable online sources and local Hosta specialty nurseries.

My favorite online sources:
1. Hallson Gardens Large multiple eyed plants at fair prices. Exceptional customer service. A Dave's top 5 for Hosta. If Hallsons has it, I buy from them. Located in Michigan Hallson Gardens

2. In the Country Garden and Gifts Large plants at fair prices. Many hard to find varieties Great customer service. Great companion plants. Located in Iowa. In the Country

3. Naylor Creek Large one or two eyed plantss. Many plants you simply can't get anywhere else. They always have the latest newest cultivars. Great customer service. Located in Washington State. Naylor Creek

4. Naylor Creek Large one or two eyed plants. Many plants you simply can't get anywhere else. They always have the latest newest cultivars. Great customer service. Located in Washington State. Naylor Creek

5. Mason Hollow Large one or two eyed plants, bare root, sometimes larger. They also have a very large inventory. Located in New Hampshire. Not many people know or use this nursery, but they are terrific.Mason Hollow

Local Hosta Specialty Nurseries in New England
Mason Hollow, as do all of the above online sources, sells locally as well as online.

1. Cochato Nursery, located in Holbrook, MA. Large inventory of many large plants. Spectacular display garden. It's not unusual to find plants for sale with 5 or more eyes.
Cochato Nursery

2. R. Seawright, located in Carlisle, MA. I have gotten my largest plants here. He will only be doing on site sales this year. No Internet sales. Known for the field grown daylillies that are spectacular.
R. Seawright

3. Fourth Generation Nursery, located in Mendon, MA. This is a wholesale place that grow their own Hosta. They are only open to the public a few days a year. The plants are enormous, at least a year or two ahead of what you can find elsewhere. Pretty near every cultivar they sell will have 6-10 eyes in the pots. Prices are fair for the kind of plants they sell.
Fourth Generation

The New England Hosta Society has a page of resources where you can find plants near to you if you live in NE. Here's the link.
NEHS recommended sources

If you don't live in NE find a Hosta Society near you and check out their list of recommended sources. Here is where you can find local societies.
Local Hosta Societies

I avoid most local nurseries. There are a few knowledgeable who I will trust. I avoid Big Box Stores. I don't like Hosta's Direct, because I think their plants are too small. However, their plants are healthy and they are a Dave's top 5 Hosta source.

Please post your favorite sources.


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RE: For those longing for spring... (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: steve_mass on 03.06.2014 at 04:56 pm in Hosta Forum

As long as the crown isn't in water it's OK.



clipped on: 03.07.2014 at 06:54 am    last updated on: 03.07.2014 at 06:54 am

Pics from my garden today (pic heavy)

posted by: don_r on 05.28.2013 at 08:43 pm in Hosta Forum

Here are a few pics from my garden today. Please excuse the raindrops...

Ocean's Fury, the bluest hosta I have (Rawson NR)
 photo OceansFury3-Copy_zpsaa9eb95d.jpg

When I Dream (Rawson NR)
 photo WhenIDream9-Copy_zps42fa1ffe.jpg

Yellow Emperor
 photo YellowEmperor1-Copy_zps7e1d84b9.jpg

Osiris Obscur, very unusual...I like it!
 photo OsirisObscur3-Copy_zpse869ab54.jpg

Midnight Oil
 photo MidnightOil4_zps8faea123.jpg

Blue Rawhide (Rawson NR)
 photo BlueRawhide4_zps718b5bce.jpg

Color Revolt (Rawson 2010)
 photo ColorRevolt9_zps238a2183.jpg

Dark Secret
 photo DarkSecret3_zpsa04da90f.jpg

American Eagle
 photo AmericanEagle1_zps89313b47.jpg

American Blue Wrinkles, a very nice hosta with huge puckers and convexly-cupped leaves
 photo AmericanBlueWrinkles3_zpsc4360dda.jpg

Abiqua Hallucination
 photo AbiquaHalluication5_zps143d368f.jpg

Gator Hide (Rawson NR)
 photo GatorHide3_zpsf459dc44.jpg

Lakeside Foot Prints
 photo LakesideFootPrints2_zps606e2d85.jpg

Gift of Gold (Beilstein NR)
 photo GiftofGold4_zpsc2f6d251.jpg

 photo 100_5399-Copy-Copy_zps80a890c8.jpg

 photo 100_5401-Copy-Copy_zps6209843d.jpg


clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 07:51 am    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 07:52 am

RE: Hosta Genealogy (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: jonnyb023 on 06.23.2012 at 11:44 am in Hosta Forum


I used the 2 in 1 Systemic Rose and Flower Care; Bayer Advanced. It is a granular systemic. It eliminated all the red beetles.

I tried a concentrated liquid, generic, systemic in early Spring to try and stop gypsy moths on my trees. It seemed to have zero effect on the moths. I don't know about any other brand; but I do know the Bayer works very well. I got it at Home Depot, so I don't think it is too hard to find.



clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 03:37 am    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 03:37 am

RE: Hosta Genealogy (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: paul_in_mn on 06.22.2012 at 12:24 am in Hosta Forum

The lilies are Asiatic - Tiny Bee (yellow) and Tiny Hope (deep red). The 'Tiny' series are much shorter and thus seem to fit well with hostas.



clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 03:35 am    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 03:36 am

distinct with a nod to similar (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: moccasinlanding on 06.10.2012 at 05:52 pm in Hosta Forum

Well, I had a long post written waiting for a photo to be found, and the window closed.....

This is the FAQ from GWeb that Papou worked on, and Caliloo uploaded to the FAQS, but GWeb stripped the formatting. What I've done is COLOR it, so each name appears separately. Then the ones which, at the time (2004) were SIMILAR, are separated by / marks and are all the same color.

My apologies to Caliloo and GWeb if I infringe on anything, but it is after all still on GWeb through Flickr's technology. You can go to my Flickr and get the largest size of it if you care to. But here 'tis.
Distinct Hosta--GWeb
Distinct Hosta--GWeb


clipped on: 02.16.2014 at 06:05 am    last updated on: 02.16.2014 at 06:05 am

RE: The Better of the Look Alikes? (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: hostabuff on 06.10.2012 at 04:04 pm in Hosta Forum

There so many areas of performance to consider when trying to determine which look-alike hosta is most garden worthy. This is demonstrated in the article titled "Look-Alikes" discussing the similarities and strengths of Fire and Ice, Loyalist and Paul Revere, published by the American Hosta Society. Here's a link to the article:

Here's my potential list of look-alikes based on the many look alike discussions on this forum over the years. I have not verified the accuracy list. I use this list to avoid purchasing hostas that look the same. The list is not prioritized based on performance, which probably varies from region to region, growing conditions, growth habit, etc:

Kryptonite / Canadian Shield / Devon Green / Peridot / Valeries Vanity
Halcyon / Canadian Blue
Tokudama Aureonebulosa / Blue Shadows
Paradigm / Darwin's Standard / Brother Stefan / Lunar Magic / Lunar Orbit / Dick Ward
Lakeside Cupcake / Warwick Comet / Popcorn (I have all three)
Great Expectations / Summer Joy
Paradise Expectations / Great Arrival
Summer Serenade / Mid Afternoon
Sum of It All / Titanic (inferior)
Clifford's Comet / Revolution
Fire and Ice / Loyalist / Paul Revere
Antioch / Moorheim / Sundancer / Spinners
Piedmont Special / Tyler's Treasure / Satisfaction / Shadowfax
Liberty / Clifford's Forest Fire / Magic Fire / Majesty
Dream Weaver / Thunderbolt / Dream Queen
Deja Blu / Woolly Bully / Bolt Out of the Blue / Blue River
On Stage / Choko Nishiki
Patriot / Minuteman
Northern Halo's / Northern Exposure / American Halo
Patriot's Fire / Moonlight / Moonglow
Opipara / Bill Brinka
Touch of Class / Grand Marquee
Americana / Clifford's Stingray / American Sweetheart
Lunar Sun / September Sun
Zounds / August Moon
High Society / Remember Me
Anne / Twilight
Emerald Ruff Cut / Emerald Isle (same hosta-renamed)
English Sunrise / May
Island Charm / Fantasy Island
Kiwi Full Monty / Strip Tease
El Nino / First Frost / Sleeping Beauty / Blue Ivory
Regal Splendor / Tom Schmid
First Mate / Kabitan


clipped on: 02.16.2014 at 06:03 am    last updated on: 02.16.2014 at 06:03 am

RE: Eola Sapphire - Anyone? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: hostarox on 05.29.2007 at 07:34 pm in Hosta Forum

I have it, and love it! I would call the color blue as opposed to a green Hosta. The Hosta Library has it incorrectly listed as Eola Blue Sapphire, but the name really is Eola Sapphire. I've had mine awhile, but I would call it a fast growing blue. Pics from yesterday and today (when I saw this thread, I ran out and took a closer pic.)
The first picture shows Eola Sapphire behind Alligator Shoes and Robert Frost.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket


clipped on: 02.13.2014 at 08:32 am    last updated on: 02.13.2014 at 08:32 am

RE: Hosta V 2013 (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: old_dirt on 02.12.2014 at 08:09 pm in Hosta Forum

Valerie's Vanity, very nice glossy plant, I don't think it's ever had a bad day.


clipped on: 02.12.2014 at 09:30 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2014 at 09:31 pm

RE: Hosta V 2013 (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: BeverlyMN on 02.12.2014 at 05:53 pm in Hosta Forum

Vanilla Cream in mostly shade.


clipped on: 02.12.2014 at 09:29 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2014 at 09:29 pm

RE: top gun hosta - warning....enabling... (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: dansgrdn on 11.01.2013 at 01:45 pm in Hosta Forum

If it had to be one, for me it would be 'Liberty'
I usually gravitate toward solid or mediovariegated Hosta, but 'Liberty' is a definite exception. I remember when I first got it that I couldn't wait until it developed its wide border. The wait made it even more rewarding when it got there and the combo of its stature and color make it a standout throughout the season which is why it would be my choice for "Top Gun"

This post was edited by dansgrdn on Fri, Nov 1, 13 at 14:37


clipped on: 02.12.2014 at 07:53 am    last updated on: 02.12.2014 at 07:53 am

RE: Hosta Butts (I'm being cheeky!) (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: Hostanista on 02.02.2014 at 11:26 am in Hosta Forum

OMG don_r you sure did your research on those names! And I thought I had a lot of extra time on my hands!

Went looking for other interesting "pots" on the internet - sure are a lot of creative people out there!


clipped on: 02.07.2014 at 01:16 pm    last updated on: 02.07.2014 at 01:17 pm

RE: Hosta S 2013 (Follow-Up #37)

posted by: sunnywood on 02.05.2014 at 09:48 am in Hosta Forum



clipped on: 02.05.2014 at 10:06 am    last updated on: 02.05.2014 at 10:06 am

RE: Hosta R 2013 (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: steve_mass on 02.03.2014 at 07:30 am in Hosta Forum

Regal Splendor
Regal Splendor 2013 photo DSC02299_zps58a3fe2c.jpg

Rainforest Sunrise
Rainforest Sunrise 2013 photo DSC02298_zps68c30e5a.jpg

Royal Flush. Yes, that's its actual color.
Royal Flush 2013 photo IMG_1221_zps98725d30.jpg

Red Sox
Red Sox 2013 photo IMG_1041_zpsc57227bb.jpg



Regal Splendor
clipped on: 02.04.2014 at 11:49 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2014 at 11:49 pm

RE: Hosta R 2013 (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: paul_in_mn on 02.03.2014 at 12:59 pm in Hosta Forum

Radiant Star
Hosta 'Radiant Star' (11)-001

Rare Breed
Hosta 'Rare Breed' (12)-002

rectifolia Chionea
Hosta 'rectifolia Chionea' (12)-001

Red Hot Poker
Hosta 'Red Hot Poker' (10)-1

Regal Chameleon
Hosta 'Regal Chamelion' (10)-001

Regal Supreme
Hosta 'Regal Supreme' (13)-001

Roller Coaster Ride
Hosta 'Roller Coaster Ride' (10)-1

Hosta 'Rotini' (12)-001

Royal Tiara
Hosta 'Royal Tiara' (10)-002



Radiant Star and Regal Chameleon
clipped on: 02.04.2014 at 11:38 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2014 at 11:43 pm

RE: Hosta Library Photo Contest Pics are Posted (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: moccasinlanding on 08.22.2013 at 09:31 pm in Hosta Forum

Well, I found out what I wanted to know.
And here is one that I totally must have SOON////
Flamenco Dancer....Look at the vase shape, the purple pets, the ruffles .....question: is it fertile?


The list of entrants says that the letters DR which appear after the picture's name stand for Doug Ruff. I'm guessing that Flamenco Dancer is Doug's creation. What a beauty!
clipped on: 02.04.2014 at 09:47 am    last updated on: 02.04.2014 at 09:47 am

RE: Hosta Library Photo Contest Pics are Posted (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: Don_in_Colorado on 08.22.2013 at 09:38 pm in Hosta Forum

Lookee this one...Arthur Wrede names this one 'Almost' because...well, he ALMOST reached his goal...

From The Hosta Library...
"Arthur has always said that this is his best plant so far in his quest for red-leaved hostas. At the age of 80 he's still working towards those red leaves, and we won't be surprised if he someday names a plant 'Finally'!

Very cool plant.

Don B.

EDIT: Edited to add clearer pic.

This post was edited by Don_in_Colorado on Thu, Aug 22, 13 at 23:30


clipped on: 02.04.2014 at 09:45 am    last updated on: 02.04.2014 at 09:45 am

RE: Six more weeks of carp (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: Hostanista on 02.03.2014 at 07:15 pm in Hosta Forum

You're right Bernd, if we only get 6 more weeks of this stuff I'd be thrilled. Here's a pic taken 2 years ago February 2, 2012 of the little cabin in my back yard with the grass as green as can be, just a little unmelted snow lingering in the bottom right hand side of the photo. Sigh!


Nice guest house
clipped on: 02.04.2014 at 09:36 am    last updated on: 02.04.2014 at 09:37 am

RE: Hosta Alphabet J Summer 2011 (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: jennaj_z4mn on 08.03.2011 at 03:27 pm in Hosta Forum

Jimmy Crack Corn
H. Jimmy Crack Corn

Jewel of the Nile--one of my favorites--and so far stable!!

H. Jewel of the Nile

H. June

Another Journey's End--it has got HUGE this year--only 3 years old.
H. Journey's End (early spring


Beautiful picture of June
clipped on: 01.29.2014 at 10:18 pm    last updated on: 01.29.2014 at 10:30 pm

RE: Hosta Alphabet J Summer 2011 (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: steve_mass on 08.03.2011 at 07:05 pm in Hosta Forum


That's a lovely June and a good picture of it. Thanks.



clipped on: 01.29.2014 at 10:21 pm    last updated on: 01.29.2014 at 10:21 pm

RE: Hostas in whiskey barrels (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: zkathy on 01.24.2014 at 08:56 pm in Hosta Forum

I did it, here's the list. Anybody see a hosta that really should live in a barrel?
Allegan Fog
Alligator Shoes
Baby Bunting
Clear ForkRiver Valley
Clifford's Stingray
Cool as a Cucumber
Crocodile Rock
Cutting Edge
Devil's Advocate
Diamond Tiara
Dragon Tails
Earth Angel
Flemish Sky
Fragrant Queen
Frosted Dimples
Golden Gate
Iron Gate Delight
Jade Cascade
Jewel of the Nile
King Tut
Lakeside Kaleidescope
Lemon Lime
Mango Tango
On Stage
One Man's Treasure
Restless Sea
Ripple Effect
Silk Kimono
So Sweet
Sun Power
Twist of Lime
Winter Snow

I'm figuring a cascading or upright hosta will look best elevated. So the Sun Power, Jade Cascade and Spartacus look like good prospects. Any other suggestions are welcome! Or maybe I'll take ken's advice and do pot in pot and change at will.


This post was edited by zkathy on Fri, Jan 24, 14 at 21:21


My spring 2014 delivery list.
clipped on: 01.26.2014 at 09:35 am    last updated on: 01.27.2014 at 10:20 pm

RE: rugose, crinkly (Follow-Up #76)

posted by: mctavish6 on 11.06.2013 at 03:32 pm in Hosta Forum

There are sure some great plants here. Love the crinkles. This is a plant of my sisters grown in Washington. Mine is about 1/2 the size.

7- July 2013 (390)


clipped on: 01.26.2014 at 10:04 am    last updated on: 01.26.2014 at 10:04 am

RE: Hosta of the Year (HOTY) (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: coll_123 on 06.19.2012 at 06:28 pm in Hosta Forum

bkay, I have both Cathedral Windows and Stained Glass, and if I could only have one, it would be CW...
Here are my HOTYs, minus blue mouse ears, which I don't have a pic of this year, and Rainforest Sunrise, which, after three years is still one lousy eye.

Regal Splendor- bought in '05

Stained Glass, '06

June, '06, lots of shadePhotobucket

First Frost, '07 slow and steady

Liberty '06 or '07...can't recall at the moment


Goats beard behind liberty
clipped on: 11.16.2013 at 07:56 am    last updated on: 11.16.2013 at 07:56 am