Clippings by zeebee

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

Punch Lists

posted by: CEFreeman on 12.09.2014 at 07:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

Based on a few, "Is this OK" threads here, I thought it might be helpful to have a standard-type punch list for people who are ready to sign off on their kitchens and/or renos. I'm hoping the KDs here will chime in.

I'll start:

  • Drawers that open well, not impeded by lack of spacers.
  • Soft closers are installed and work.
  • Cabinet doors are hung straight. i.e. plumb and level. Check your miters.
  • Check any veneers for adhesion.
  • Drawer fronts are installed plumb, level, and in line with the ones above and below, spaced well between each other.
  • Do pull-outs (you must be new here) pull out smoothly and with full extension?
  • Hardware is aligned with the other hardware, up, down, side to side.
  • Cabinet end pieces are installed.
  • Crown molding is installed and corners look good. Lined up, mitered properly, and caulked & painted where necessary.
  • (Get this) Kitchen faucet has its stoppers in right, so it doesn't spin over the countertops on either side.
  • Is your sink caulked? Is it in straight? Is it centered?
  • See if your garbage disposer works.
  • Can you turn on your water? Pressure? Does it leak underneath your sink?
  • Is the oven set right? If it's a stove top, is it in straight? Set correctly? Does it work? Is it caulked?
  • Your hood. Is it at the proper height? Where does it vent? Does it work? Is it unGodly loud?
    Your lights.
  • Are the ceiling pot lights in the correct places?
  • Are your pendants centered how you'd like them? Are they level? Do they work?
  • Are any 2-way switches working properly?
  • Is your UCL installed well? No wires? IMHO, it should be at the front of the cabinets. Where are the switches?
    DW.
  • Does it work? How does it affect your water pressure?
  • Does your wine cooler cool? (Do people really need this?)
  • Coffee station. Does it make espresso to go with your Reese's cups? Does it work?
    Tile. Floor and/or back splash.
  • Is there lippage? Cracks?
  • Grout all over? Did they use the right color of grout?
  • Bullnose where necessary?
  • Is it sealed?
  • Is any stray caulk removed, rather than painted over?
  • Is the drywall finished well? No nail pops, no tape showing through?
  • Is it painted well? All drips cleaned up. Smears off the cabinets and woodwork. Ceiling line cut in well?
    Countertops:
    If you have laminate, are the edges routed well? Seams well done? Smooth? (Slide a penny across the counter & make sure it'll slide over the seams.)
    Stone. (Someone else's gotta jump in here)
    Butcherblock? Smooth? Sealed as you'd asked?
  • Does your fridge open well? Not impeded by lack of space? Does it work?
  • Does your icemaker work? You've got your warranty papers?
  • Did they clean their hand prints off the cabinets, woodwork and trim? Did they sweep up and pick up the garbage reno creates?
  • Have you posted pictures of your kitchen on Gardenweb?

    I've gotta stop. There was a lot more in my head than I'd expected.
    What have you learned that you should have noticed?
    What would you tell the next person who is ready to sign off?

  • NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 12.09.2014 at 09:05 pm    last updated on: 12.09.2014 at 09:05 pm

    Best Sealer for Honed Carrara Countertops

    posted by: pipermaruu on 08.26.2014 at 09:53 am in Kitchens Forum

    I know the question has been asked a thousand times on this forum, but I wanted to specify that my Carrara is honed in case that makes a difference. I am considering Bulletproof and PorousPlus, but concerned that either will cause some sort of discoloration to the marble. Our fabricator recommended the DuPont Impregnator, but the DuPont website basically says to buy the Bulletproof because it's better. I am fine with spending the extra money on PorousPlus even though it has been called "overkill". Just wondering about your experience with each.

    Thanks in advance!

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 08.26.2014 at 01:53 pm    last updated on: 08.26.2014 at 01:53 pm

    space needed for faucet behind farmhouse sink?

    posted by: nessas on 05.18.2014 at 01:03 am in Kitchens Forum

    For our kitchen remodel, I plan to get a stainless steel farmhouse sink (apron front), double-bowl with a 60/40 split. My kitchen is small, and I like that the 36" long sink will fit in a 36" cabinet. It seems an efficient use of space.

    There's some variation in sink width (front-to-back) among the brands I'm considering. Lavello is 20" exterior width; Kraus, Miseno, & Ticor are 20.75"; Ariel & Vigo are 22.3".
    My two top choices are the Ariel (with almost 18" interior width bowls front-to-back) vs. the Kraus (16"). It would be nice to have the extra 2 inches in bowl width of the Ariel. But I wonder if the larger exterior width of the Ariel sink might be a problem.

    Would there be enough room behind this 22.3" exterior width sink for a counter-mounted faucet? We'll likely have standard 24" base cabinets, and probably granite countertops with whatever the typical overhang is (1.5"?). The sink will be under-mounted, with most of the 1" wide back rim of the sink under the countertop. So taking into account a tile backsplash (maybe 1/2"?) I'm guessing there will be 3.5" of countertop behind the sink.

    How much room do you need from the edge of granite to the faucet hole, to avoid potentially cracking the granite? I plan to get a single-handle faucet, installed with the handle in front, so the handle won't hit the backsplash. I could pull the sink forward some, but it has square front corners, and I'm not sure I like that look.

    I also wonder if that extra 2 inch sink width would make me have to stretch too much to reach the faucet (I'm 5'3"). Having the handle in front should help with that, though.

    And would I need a faucet with a longer spout reach? It seems that many faucets I've looked at only have about an 8" spout reach. That doesn't seem far enough for an 18" interior width sink basin, does it? I would think you'd want the spout to reach at least halfway across the sink, is that right?

    I'd appreciate any advice you have on this!

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 07.15.2014 at 04:32 pm    last updated on: 07.15.2014 at 04:32 pm

    Finished! White (with blue island), soapstone, etc. (pic heavy)

    posted by: mfhoop on 12.08.2010 at 08:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

    We've taken some time off from reading this forum (new baby came 4 weeks after we were substantially complete on the kitchen!), but we just got back the photos that our contractor's professional photographer took, so we thought we'd do the final unveil.

    When we moved into this house 17 months ago, we knew we'd need to update the kitchen. It was the size of a postage stamp and cut off from the rest of the house. See original floor plan here:

    Existing Floorplan

    We really wanted a kitchen that would be open to our family room, would have eat-in space not separated by a brick wall, and - of course - more space. So we decided to take out the wall between the original kitchen and dining room, move the dining room to what used to be a formal living room that we never used, and taking out the wall between the old kitchen/dining rooms and a breezeway type area that was mostly wasted space.

    After discussions with several design/build firms and countless hours of looking at floor plans posted to this site (thank you, those who gave us valuable input!), we pretty much designed the floor plan ourselves and then found a contractor who was willing to do it. We did have to convince him that we really did want this design. He wanted us to have a U-shaped kitchen with a peninsula instead of the island, but we really wanted the circular flow plan and felt strongly that we wanted 2 separate cabinet runs that make a disconnected "L" so we didn't have any corner cabinets. (With his design we would have had 2 corners on an 11-foot wall). What we ended up with was mostly like this:
    Photobucket

    Changes to this design included moving the warming drawer to the island, putting the icemaker to the right of the prep sink, and shrinking down the island a bit. We also moved things around within the mudroom. Generally speaking, this is substantially what we ended up with.

    This was no small construction feat - we took out 2 walls, including one load-bearing wall to combine 2 rooms and an old breezeway into a single kitchen and then added a mudroom. From the first sledgehammer to the final nail, it took about 16 weeks. There were a few in the middle when we thought that the baby would come first but they got it done on time and for that we are super grateful!

    For those who want to know what is what:
    Cabinets - CWP (we originally wanted Crownpoint, but decided we wanted something made closer to where we live - VA - and less expensive). So far we've been pleased though the wainscot still needs to be touched up. We're glad we did the blue island with the white surrounding cabinets. It gives the room some personality, looks great with the soapstone and matches my Polish pottery!
    Counters and sinks - soapstone from Buck's County. Love it.
    Rangetop, hood and ovens - Wolf
    Fridge - 48" Subzero
    Warming drawer - Miele - we still don't really use this...
    Dishwasher - Miele
    Microwave - GE spacesaver. We went through a lot of angst with our contractor on the placement of this. We had this location in a prior kitchen and really liked it but he never did. We still like it!
    Wine fridge - U-line
    Ice Maker - SZ (found used on Craigslist!)
    Backsplash - carrara marble (we originally wanted plain white but hired a designer for a few hours of input and he recommended this - we really like how it ties together the grey in the soapstone and the white in the cabinets)
    Knobs and pulls- RH
    Latches - can't remember, but found them from the Christopher Peacock look-alike kitchen blog
    Faucets - KWC except for the filter/insta-hot which is Waterstone (I thought I would love the pull down one but I actually like the pull-out one at our cleanup sink more)
    Pendants - Hudson Valley
    Floors - White oak in kitchen, soapstone in mudroom. We had 3 different materials in the 3 rooms that were combined to make this (cork, wood, and slate) and had a hard time deciding what we wanted to have. In the end, we went with wood and stained it to match the adjacent dining room.

    The pictures:

    The old:
    Kitchen 3

    The new:
    Photobucket

    To orient yourself, the pantry to the left of the fridge is in the same location that our old fridge was!

    Photobucket
    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 10.20.2013 at 11:16 pm    last updated on: 10.20.2013 at 11:16 pm

    ? on crown molding and cabinets to the ceiling

    posted by: abbey_cny on 06.05.2012 at 11:01 am in Kitchens Forum

    I ordered my new cabinets yesterday (Schuler) and ran into a problem with the crown molding so I am looking for some info.
    I had planned on doing crown molding all around the kitchen ceiling, as there is molding there now but very basic 1950's stuff and I wanted to dress everything up. I ordered a simple crown molding from Schuler, but apparently it won't work in the rest of the kitchen where it won't be up against the top of the cabinets? The Lowe's person and the Schuler person she called both appeared surprised that I would want crown molding all around the entire kitchen. I didn't think my request was unsual but perhaps it is? They told me the solution was to buy similar molding and just put it up in the areas where there are no cabinets. Wouldn't different style molding look a little odd? This is my one and only kitchen remodel, lol, so I am rather unsure of what I am doing at times, but I thought I was doing pretty good with the cabinets until I ran into this. I hope I explained myself correctly, and hope those of you with cabinets all the way to ceiling can weigh in and let me know what you did as far as the molding around your cabinets and the rest of the kitchen. Thanks for any and all suggestions!

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 06.07.2013 at 09:40 pm    last updated on: 06.07.2013 at 09:40 pm

    Please show me soapstone with medium to dark wood cabs!

    posted by: lithigin on 03.20.2011 at 07:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

    DH and I looked through every kitchen on the FKB with soapstone, and 90% of them have white cabinets. Lovely white cabinets which make a gorgeous contrast with soapstone. I get that. But I have been planning all along to get maple cabs with a nutmeg-type stain on them. We have very yellow Red Oak floors and want some contrast against those. We will have one south-facing window: a garden one that is 42"x44" and the kitchen is just smaller than 10'x13'.

    We have a fantastic quote from Kitchen Craft, and are considering paying more for Ultracraft since their cabs are so easily customizable and will fit our 92.5" ceiling with 38" lowers much better. However, their stain choices are extremely limited. Basically, there are a dozen colors that are very close to our floors, one reddish midrange one (Amber), one Walnut-y one, and Chocolate and Wenge that are clearly too dark.

    So point is...please help with any pics of medium to dark cabinets with soapstone! I found KansasKathy and Diane2566 on the FKB, but the others with darker cabs have ancient links and the albums are long gone.

    Thanks for any help!

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 06.02.2013 at 08:28 am    last updated on: 06.02.2013 at 08:28 am

    Show me your undersink drawers!

    posted by: Peke on 01.29.2013 at 10:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

    If anyone has pictures of drawers under the sink instead of the usual doors, I would love to see them.

    Thanks, Peke

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 04.05.2013 at 05:51 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2013 at 08:29 am

    Not A Happy Granite Installation :-(

    posted by: MM99 on 05.16.2013 at 07:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Hi All:

    We live in the Greater Boston area and are in the process of remodeling our kitchen. We started the process of choosing a granite stone by talking to a few fabricators and stone suppliers in the area and narrowing down to one of each. We really liked the Sienna Bordeaux stone and our stone supplier had 3 slabs in total.

    Of all 3, we really liked one but since our fabricator wasn't sure if we needed 1 slab or 2, they asked us to put two slabs on hold. Also, of the 3 slabs at the supplier, we noticed that one of them had a gaping chip/dent in the center.

    As a result our choices were further limited to just the remaining two. We noted down the complete slab numbers and got them onto one of the stone supplier's "Customer Information Form" as reserved under our name.

    In case our work only needed 1 slab, we indicated which of the two preferred slabs should be ordered and used for our purpose. Later we went to our fabricator and gave them a copy of the form which had the slab numbers and our preference.

    A few days later, we placed a 50% deposit with the fabricator and waited for them to come do the template work. A week later, they came to install the stone. To our surprise, not only was the stone was poorly cut, badly polished and mis-aligned (photos below), the pieces were not even from either of the two slabs we had placed on hold.

    We think its the one that had the large hole in it since we see a place on one of the counters where resin has been applied and buffed. Both of us have a clear recollection of what the two slabs on hold looked like in terms of their grain and movement, and the ones we have definitely do not match either of them.

    At this point, we feel we have been badly cheated. We would like to know if flipping slabs is a common practice in this industry and trust is not a word in the fabricator/stone supplier's dictionary.

    Also, the pictures confirm the shoddy work where none of the counter slabs seem acceptable to us. We would like to know what are choices are at this point.

    Your experiences and comments are deeply appreciated.

    Thanks.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 05.17.2013 at 11:36 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2013 at 11:36 pm

    Unofficial ABB president looking to retire

    posted by: breezygirl on 03.14.2013 at 05:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I think it's time to start looking again for a backsplash. It's only been 16 months since the kitchen was functional, and I've been getting enough pressure from Oldbat2be and a2gemini. ;) I've been terrified of this decision for these 16 months and could use some help please.

    Oldbat suggested that I post some photos lined up correctly, see what everyone suggests, and she can photoshop some of your suggestions. (Thank you so much in advance, OB!) I felt like I should have some samples picked and in the kitchen first, but I don't have any presently. The tile stores in my area are completely uninspired and making a road trip to the good ones can be complicated with the kids' schedules and just plain hauling them along.

    My trouble is that I don't really know what I want. I've taken the Sweeby test without much luck at least a dozen times. I know I do NOT want white subs. I'd like something more unique with sophistication, elegance, and maybe a hint of quirkiness or unexpectedness. I do not want tile to compete with the lines of the hood or with the view out the windows. I don't want busy and am drawn gutturally to textures. I go crazy for straight, clean lines, but am also pleased with elegant curves and modern graphic shapes. Painterly is another adjective that makes me happy. And then there are the ultra pricey New Ravenna and Artistic Tile water jet patterns that make me drool.

    I do not want a separate tile behind the rangetop, nor do i want little borders or other strips of accent tiles. I will tile the whole backsplash with one type of tile. I plan to tile the rangetop from the counter all the way to my ceiling. On the cleanup sink wall, I'm thinking of two options. Either tile that whole wall to just the height of the bottom of the window sill, or tile the wall to the height of the bottom of the upper at the corner.

    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    I need to be mindful of my double-sided fireplace near the kitchen that also needs tile on both sides. I plan to tile from the floor to about 6-8" above the fireplace and add a mantle of some sort (yet another future decision) on each side. Maybe I can even get some help with the tile decision here along the way on this thread.

    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    My Carrara is fairly gray and busy.

    Rangetop
    Highland Ridge on top, Aubrey on bottom

    I've looked at tiles for more than 3 years now. I think my problem is that I've looked too much for too long. Here are some of the tiles I've clipped.

    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    NOT this color, but this shape.
    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    Any suggestions? General patterns to avoid? Suggestions for the scale of the tile? I thank you in advance for helping me with this decision that has been weighing on me for so long.

    This post was edited by breezygirl on Thu, Mar 14, 13 at 19:02

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 04.10.2013 at 09:34 pm    last updated on: 04.10.2013 at 09:34 pm

    RE: Is Anyone Happy With Their Built-in Microwave? (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: clinresga on 09.19.2012 at 10:13 am in Appliances Forum

    This comes up repeatedly on this forum. I am one of many who strongly believe that built-in MW are a terrible idea: ridiculously overpriced for a device that is identical internally to the $150 special at Walmart. They're all still built by Panasonic or Sharp, no matter the Viking nameplate or the $1000 price tag. Plus, they still look terribly kludgy to my eye.

    We have been ultra-satisfied with our decision to place the MW into a cabinet with a door on "garage door" hinges. Hidden when we want it to be, easily accessed when in use. Plus I love the Panasonic MW we got for under $200 (with true inverter technology) and will shed no tears if like most MW's it dies in a few years.

    MW open

    MW closed

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 04.10.2013 at 04:06 pm    last updated on: 04.10.2013 at 04:06 pm

    cold draft coming in through Hood Vent... any ideas why???

    posted by: mamadadapaige on 11.23.2008 at 08:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

    There is very cold air coming in through the hood. Is anyone aware of a fix for this? I have the GC'ers coming back on Tuesday to do a few things for me and am hoping they can address it.

    It has been SO cold here in New England these last couple of weeks so this draft is very noticeable and something I want to fix ASAP.

    Thank You!!

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 04.04.2013 at 05:41 pm    last updated on: 04.04.2013 at 05:41 pm

    If you had your choice with a large budget, which appliance?

    posted by: Pattyjill on 03.03.2013 at 09:57 pm in Appliances Forum

    I am having such a hard time trying to figure out which appliances I want to go with. At first I was interested in the Jennair line since they are offering a great deal. But then I started researching and find that Jennair isn't quite the best.

    I went out again today looking and I'm thinking I would love the Meile 36 inch refrig, Bosch DW, Thermador oven and maybe the Wolf 36 inch range top.

    If you had your pick and were doing a complete renovation of your kitchen, what would you pick???

    Thanks,
    patty

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 03.05.2013 at 08:12 pm    last updated on: 03.05.2013 at 08:12 pm

    RE: Where should I put the microwave? Any ideas? (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: robotropolis on 03.05.2013 at 12:32 am in Kitchens Forum

    That Whirlpool is adorable!!

    I'm starting to feel a little hutchy around that back coffee corner. A little appliance garagey. Although it will cut off the peninsula prep area from the sink a bit.

    Edit: mocked up the hutch and don't like it at all, too closed off! But under the cabinet still works!

    This post was edited by robotropolis on Tue, Mar 5, 13 at 9:45

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 03.05.2013 at 06:41 pm    last updated on: 03.05.2013 at 06:41 pm

    Corner Cabinet Space Calculations and Analysis

    posted by: davidahn on 02.20.2013 at 02:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

    This is an attempt at putting some numbers to the age-old question: what do I do with this darned corner?!? I have answered this question for myself, but thought my analysis might be helpful to others pondering this same question.

    Methodology:
    - Tried to standardize on a 24D x 48W blind cabinet
    - Lazy susan & corner drawers required 36 x 36 corner cabinet
    Total usable space is calculated based on the interior space of the drawer/pullout
    Usable space given is PER TIER and calculated based on the footprint of the box
    Multiply usable space by number of tiers/drawers for total storage area
    Drawers and pullouts are 22” deep minus 5/8” drawer front/back
    Drawer widths are box width minus 3/4” box sides, 1/2” drawer slide clearances, and 5/8” drawer sides
    - Your cabinet builder’s specs may vary slightly from my numbers

    Corner Cabinet Studies

    Shelves & Non Corner Drawers
    Plain shelves (not shown) maximize space use (88% of footprint due to plywood box sides and back) but minimize accessibility. The gold standard is drawers (see 'Non Corner'), balancing space utilization and accessibility (only 73% of footprint due to hardware and clearances), but obviously, two drawer stacks are NOT an option for a corner. Space efficiency should be compared to the drawer 'gold standard' rather than plain shelves which are a terrible idea for any deep cabinet, especially corner cabinets!

    Corner Drawer
    The corner drawer solution (53% of footprint, 73% of non-corner drawers) does have LARGE dead dead space in both corners, and awkward angles all over the drawers. The pluses are: you can store a lot of stuff by having 4 drawers (2728 sq in), and you can have access to ALL of your stuff. 4 corner drawers offer 81% of two 24W drawer stacks, but takes up 12.5% more floor space.

    Super Susan
    The super susan (60% of footprint, 82% of non-corner drawers). It’s impractical to do more than 2 tiers, and it lacks a certain sex appeal, and stuff can fall off and get lost in the dead space areas. There’s a maximized version of the Super Susan called the Korner King, which looks like it stores a LOT of crap, but it looks like a Frankenstein’s cabinet, an esthetic purist’s nightmare. For those not offended by its looks, functionally it has a lot of broken up pieces of storage of which only about 10-40% of your stuff is accessible at a time.

    Custom Corner
    My 'custom corner' (narrow pullout, wide side slide), my choice, has the same usable space as drawers per tier (73% of footprint), but a lot less accessibility due to the limitations the corner imposes. I chose it because while we have lots of storage space, I still wasn’t ready to seal off the corner. The large sideways slideout is perfect for items like our 60 and 100 qt pots that wouldn’t fit in drawers anyway (we occasionally cook for LARGE groups). The main pullout would have 3 tiers for more often-accessed items, for a total of 1494 sq in (514 s.i. x 1 full height slideout for big pots, 327 s.i. x 3 for front pullout), a decent amount of storage including a very large, full height side-slide. 2 L + 3 S tiers would give 2009 s.i.

    Dead Corner
    The simplest corner solution, the 'dead corner,' only gives 29% of the footprint in storage, or 40% of the storage of 48' of non-corner drawers. But if you use a 4-drawer stack, you get a lot of functional storage - 1348 sq in, though no room for tall/large items.

    Magic Corner
    Hafele’s Magic Corner offers that WOW factor when you see it gleaming and gliding in and out with soft-close. But it’s only 536 s.i. per tier (49% of footprint, 67% of non-corner drawers), 1072 total s.i. It could store more, but it’s designed to fit in more applications (21D cabinets, narrower cabinets), and therefore has a lot of dead space.

    Thoughts
    - Unlike straight base cabinets where there’s clear consensus that drawers are best, corners are ALL about limitations and compromise (and debate, with everyone having their own favorite corner solution that fits their needs)
    - Drawers offer the greatest accessibility, and by using 3 or 4 drawers, you quickly make up for less space efficiency over 2-tier solutions. For example, even though the dead corner only offers 29% of the footprint of storage per tier, multiply that by 4 drawers = 1348 sq in, more than the Magic Corner’s 1072 s.i. and almost as much as the Super Susan’s 1550 s.i. with 144 s.i. smaller footprint. Despite the large dead spaces, the Corner Drawer offers a LOT of potential storage, up to 2728 s.i. with 4 drawers, though losing large item capability.
    As impressive as the 'Magic Corner' solutions are to demo (I too “ooooh”ed at first), they are extremely costly (about $900 and up after hardware and baskets) and optimized to fit in shallower cabinets so have more dead space than other solutions.
    My custom corner maximizes total use of the footprint area and also maximizes large and bulky item storage with relatively limited access to the inside corner area, while minimizing cost.
    - As with marriage, there is no perfect match, only great or poor fits for your needs. If you’re unhappy with your corner solution, either ignore the limitations or find a better solution. Just don’t expect perfection!

    Here is a link that might be useful: Korner King - not for me, might be right for you?

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 02.21.2013 at 08:52 pm    last updated on: 02.21.2013 at 08:53 pm

    Warming draw and inset cabinets can't do!

    posted by: Marion13 on 02.21.2013 at 07:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I was ordering my cabinets today when the KD told me that I can't do the panelled warming draw with the inset cabinets. It will not be flush with my other cabinets and look like a mistake. I was really disappointed because I am losing my 24 inch double oven and thought the warming draw would help when I entertain which I often do. If I do the warming draw it can't be panelled and I am afraid it will look funny as it has to go right next to my 30 inch wolf range. I have a small kitchen. Do I give up the warming draw or leave it Stainless? Its so big I am afraid its an eyesore right near the range. Now I second guess myself with choosing the inset cabinets. Ugh.. Help.. Sammad2@aol

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 02.21.2013 at 08:51 pm    last updated on: 02.21.2013 at 08:51 pm

    Are all warming drawers created equally?

    posted by: Kitten1313 on 02.06.2013 at 10:01 pm in Appliances Forum

    I've decided, given our hectic lifestyle, that I must have a warming drawer in my new kitchen. That way, when my husband works until 10 pm, the chicken parm I made won't dry out in the oven or toughen up in the fridge! Do they mostly all have the same features, or is there a stand out one?

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 02.10.2013 at 11:29 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2013 at 11:29 pm

    Which Model Tapmaster Do You Have - Would You Buy it Again

    posted by: library_girl on 04.12.2012 at 10:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I'm considering a tapmaster - I'm trying to figure out if it's worth the money (seems to me like it would be REALLY handy)...Which sink did you install it on, is it easy to use (barefoot or sockfoot)? Does it draw attention to itself, or does it operate discreetly? Did you just order it from the Tapmaster site?

    Thanks...

    Here is a link that might be useful: Tapmaster site

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 02.03.2013 at 09:46 am    last updated on: 02.03.2013 at 09:47 am

    Single Wall Oven + Advantium ?s

    posted by: swan01 on 12.27.2012 at 10:15 am in Appliances Forum

    We currently have a 30 in gas range and are remodeling our kitchen. We are set on a 36 in gas cooktop and undercounter 30 in single oven. We don't have wall space for a double wall oven (unless we want to ditch our pantry). To compensate, we are leaning towards an undercounter Advantium in our peninsula. I'm hoping we can get rid of our toaster oven and use the Advantium as our primary oven/microwave.

    1. My understanding is that the 240 Advantium cannot be installed undercounter so we have to get the 120. Is this correct?

    2. Should we get convection for the single oven? (I'm leaning towards it even for the extra $$$.)

    3. We currently use our toaster oven for quick means, not for toasting (english muffin pizzas, chicken fingers, etc.). Do you think the Advantium will serve this purpose? I'm assuming we will still keep our pop up toaster hidden somewhere.

    Thanks in advance!

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 01.02.2013 at 11:31 am    last updated on: 01.02.2013 at 11:31 am

    How to select a vented hood

    posted by: DCJersey on 12.25.2012 at 11:19 am in Kitchens Forum

    I have pretty much chosen every aspect of my kitchen except the hood. I have never had a vented hood before so I am a bit clueless on how to select one. We are planning on having an induction range.

    What brands should I be looking at? How powerful of a hood do I need? Are there certain features I should be looking for?

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 12.25.2012 at 10:32 pm    last updated on: 12.25.2012 at 10:32 pm

    Wolf Combi-Steam Oven Initial Review/Experience

    posted by: pspand on 07.30.2012 at 01:27 pm in Appliances Forum

    I'm a big believer in paying back on good things. This message board really helped me make my appliance selections for my new kitchen. Thank you. Rather than join the conversations on products that get a lot of coverage, I thought I would pay back the community through some coverage of a product that it doesn't appear many people have used - the Wolf Combi-steam. Here goes and thanks to all for your help in my research.

    WHy I wanted it.

    - I love to bake bread. REally good bread is tough in a home oven. I've gotten good baking in a dutch oven but I wanted to make baggettes, rolls, and other breads that just aren't conducive to a dutch oven.
    - I purchased a 36" range (bluestar) and while awesome it takes a long time to preheat and is often overkill for weeknight oven cooking
    - I work long days so keeping food warm and/or reheating was attractive (I don't have nor want a microwave oven)
    - Steamed dumplings in large quantities. Enough said there.

    My experience after 1 week of lots of use

    - First, bread. Amazing! I am handing out loaves to my neighbors right now as my wife says no more! It all just works. the steam mode for about 20 minutes and then convection for the remainder just works. Dead simple, really crusty, and I'm able to do 6 medium bagettes all at once.
    - Second, as secondary oven. Preheat is amazing. Somewhere between 5-10 min to get to 450. So fast and easy to use.
    - Third, chicken. Just tried this for fun (I usually do chicken on spit on my grill) and it was incredible. You have the ability to turn on/off the steam and it made a really nice juicy meat with the kind of crust you typically only get on the spit.
    - Dumplings. I made 48 steamed dumplings for some friends (shrimp, pork/veg, and cabbage/mushroom) and they were better than any dim sum place I have ever been. I love dumplings and this was great. I could bang out a lot of prep, put in fridge and then quickly get a bunch ready at one time.
    - Pastry. Surprisingly great. I used the humid setting which keeps a seal but injects no steam. Super great results but I can do same with a larger gas oven I think. a tie but no knock out here.
    - Thai fish. My wife immediately said "you need to make this again!" after one bite of my thai red snapper.

    Cons

    - we purchased "semi-custom" cabinets from kraftmaid and there was no easy way for us to fit the steam oven into the cabinet. My GC was amazing but it wouldn't have worked well if he weren't a skilled carpenter.
    - it is a lot of money. I purchased this instead of a second 30 inch oven but it was a tough sell to my wife. Felt I should state the obvious.
    - for me, they have way too many programs. Navigating all of the options is overkill. It is steam! I can figure it out Wolf! I love the options of controlling the seal, steam, and convection oven but feel like a "Flan" program is a bit much. Easy to ignore but it kind of turned me off. I am a pretty serious home cook and this feels a bit like a beginner device and it really isn't.

    Finally, I have no idea if this is better/worse than Gag/Miele/Thermador, etc. Gag was too much money and the plumbed line is nice but I feel like I can easily change the water tray every six cooking hours. The Gag does allow you to set humidity levels and I was concerned this would be an issue and so far it hasn't been at all and I feel i can approximate this through the on/off steam feature. I love the size of the oven and feel that this gives it an edge over miele/thermador but if I'm truthful I must say it isn't a significant edge.

    Can I do most everything in some other way? Yes. Does the steam oven make it easier and quicker so I will do it more often? Yes. Would I buy it again? Absolutely. Should everyone buy one? I recommend it to anyone who uses the oven a lot for small jobs, likes to slow cook, and experiments with various cuisines - especially asian. And if you are a baker especially of bread it is a knockout device.

    Hope that helps people and thanks again

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 12.15.2012 at 09:50 am    last updated on: 12.15.2012 at 09:50 am

    Challenge: anyone w/ induction exp who'd go back to gas?

    posted by: olivepear on 01.01.2007 at 07:36 pm in Appliances Forum

    A shout out to all induction users, former GAS cooktop users:

    We are all set to go on our kitchen reno with a miele gas cooktop, and because of space constraints (gotta love those nyc apartments), we are relegated to a 24" cooktop with max 10K BTUs. However, gas is gas, right? The best.

    However I've recently been reading here about induction, and now I'm wondering whether a 24" induction top would be better, to get that higher heat. Having read a gazillion posts, I'm now convinced induction is a better bet vs. electric. But what about gas. My hubby thinks I'm crazy (gas is the best, remember?) and I need to hear from the former gas lovers out there, to serve him back some real "poll" responses from those of you who had the option for gas who chose induction... and whether you are happy or have regrets.

    And thank you guys in advance!

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 11.27.2012 at 03:15 pm    last updated on: 11.27.2012 at 03:15 pm

    Walnut Island top used as cutting board - photos & finish details

    posted by: petestein1 on 09.14.2010 at 01:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Almost two years ago I contributed to some posts about using my island top as a cutting board and got some helpful advice. I thought I'd post an update.

    As part of a full renovation our kitchen island got a nice beefy top made of black walnut. Even though everyone thought I was nut, I said I wanted to use part of it as a cutting board. After all, it's a kitchen, not a museum. With that in mind, I had to come up with a food-safe finish for it. What I chose, based on advice here, was nothing more than a hand-rubbed application of mineral oil and bees wax.

    I'm happy to report that it's been over a year and everything's gone great. First, the island looks great. Everyone comments on it the moment they see it.

    Second, using it as a cutting board has worked out quite well. The wood is more than hard enough to stand up to my knives. Not having to get out a cutting board, and then keep all my chopped whatever on the cutting board as I work... it makes life so much easier. For those who told me I needed to do something akin to butcher-block -- making the island top out of end-grain... well, you were incorrect. End-grain would have been harder no doubt but the walnut is more than hard enough. And worst case? I break out a power sander and 1/64" of an inch later my island would be in immaculate condition.

    No doubt, the knife leaves marks in the wood. But the wood is "busy" enough that you can only see them if you go looking for them and your eye is within 12" or so of the counter (photos below).

    Oh, for those worried about food safety, I still don't get raw meat on the counter (though I think it would be fine as long as I cleaned up with soap and water afterwards). And we don't chop anything "stinky" like garlic or onion though we do work with other aromatics like rosemary and thyme. 15 months later and the counter has no odor of any kind.

    Third, the finish. I was worried about this but in the end it's been fine. I melted some furniture-grade beeswax on the stove, added mineral oil (about 2 parts oil to 1 part wax) and let is solidify into a semi-hard paste. I rub it in, let it stand (sometimes for a few minutes, sometimes overnight), and then I buff it out.

    At first I was doing this every few weeks but now I only do it every 2 months or so. I could probably stand to do it a bit more often in the quadrant I use as a cutting board, but, well, you know, life gets in the way.

    For the first 6 months or so if you left a wet glass on the counter for more than a few hours we were getting drink rings. I had to lightly sand those out and rewax. But now we seem to have a deep enough coating that we haven't had a drink ring -- or any mark of any kind -- for over 6 months.

    How do I clean it? A soapy sponge. Simple as that.

    Ready for photos? Ok, here's the island as whole:

    Take a good look at the image above. Can you see where I've prepared over 100 meals? You know -- the section where I've sliced up thousands of peppers and cucumbers and apples and peaches and melons and tomatoes and potatoes and celery and carrots and parsnips, etc, etc?

    Okay, the "cutting board" area is the left side of the island, from the bottom of the photo to the sink. That 25% of the island is the designated "cutting board" section.

    Yes, the board closest to the left of the photo has a lot of lines in it, but those aren't knife marks, that's "tiger-striping" in the wood -- I chose that board for there on purpose in case I needed camouflage for knife marks.

    Ok, ready for a close-up of the knife marks? This photo was taken from about 8 inches away:

    ...looks like a cutting board, doesn't it? ;-)

    So what problems do I have? Well, we have a lot of friends and cook a lot of meals together, People like to help. Once they get past the "What??! I can cut right on the counter???!?" moment I have two problems.

    First, it's hard to keep them in the designated 25% that I use as a cutting board. Yes, the knife marks are subtle enough that they could probably work anywhere but I still haven't let go.

    Second, these same people occasionally use a bread knife that can take some comparatively pretty big chunks out of the top. This has only happened once or twice, and with a coat of wax the marks pretty much disappear. But still, it's stressful.

    Bottom line? I strongly encourage people to explore using an island top as cutting board. Second, a food-safe finish is easy! Third, I love my new kitchen. :-)

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.21.2012 at 04:28 pm    last updated on: 09.21.2012 at 04:29 pm

    Gray Arabesques + Super White = ?

    posted by: beekeeperswife on 09.17.2012 at 10:17 am in Kitchens Forum

    Well, I've been on the hunt for something other than white for my back splash tile. I was sure that I could never love another tile as much as I loved my white arabesques in the last kitchen. I still had some pieces of that white tile (the movers accidentally took the extras when they packed us up--whoops). So, I had those taped to the wall and I did think they could be the ones. I went to all the tile stores I could find to look at tiles in person. Either they were too green, or too blue. None were the right gray to go with the Super White. And I kept talking in circles..." I don't want subways....it needs to be unique in the shape...Maybe I can do a subway if it's a large format with the right color....I want it to catch the light...." hmmm, sounds like someone was stuck on the arabesques, no?

    I asked my old friends at Mission Stone & Tile for a sample of the beveled arabesque tile in Smoke to check out. Oh, my. It showed up on Friday. I immediately got out the packing tape and taped it to the wall. It didn't photograph well on the wall, but in real life it looks gorge! The tiles have highlighted edges at the bevel which make them even more interesting. So, here are some pictures of the tile laying on the Super White. When I tried to photograph them vertically on the wall, the look like dark blobs. There is under cabinet lighting and to the naked eye, they look great. But, just not in photos, well, MY photos.

    I put the white ones up on the wall next to these and I can report that the gray ones are blowing away the white ones in terms of interest, at least in this kitchen.

    So, should I do it?

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.18.2012 at 08:01 am    last updated on: 09.18.2012 at 08:01 am

    max. sink size in 30' base

    posted by: debrak_2008 on 08.02.2011 at 09:07 am in Kitchens Forum

    We ordered a 30 inch sink base and want the largest single basin sink. I have done numerous searches and been to manufacturers websites. Can't seem to find a 27 or 28" sink. Have a 25" now with interior size of 21". I really would like a few more inches.

    I know many cut into the base to accomodate a larger sink. At this point we are uncomfortable doing that.

    Anyone have any suggestions? A 30" base is not an unusual size why are there not more sink choices? Frustrating...

    TIA

    Debra

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.08.2012 at 03:22 pm    last updated on: 09.08.2012 at 03:22 pm

    Range hood for 48in CC with grill

    posted by: agentslim on 06.10.2012 at 01:15 am in Appliances Forum

    We are building from scratch and I have been reading the past debates for Cfm needed.
    Our Range will be CC with 6 burners and a 12in grill

    I am going with 54in Wide 30in High modernaire hood.

    The two options for the inline blower are
    the Fantech FKD10Xl with 1266cfm

    or the larger FKD12XL,2016cfm this will need 12in duct so I must decide now.
    Any opinions is greatly appreciated!
    Thanks

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 06.10.2012 at 12:22 pm    last updated on: 06.10.2012 at 12:22 pm

    Cab Quotes & show me Beaded Inset vs Inset

    posted by: 2LittleFishies on 05.24.2012 at 11:00 am in Kitchens Forum

    I know the difference but would LOVE to see photos of both!

    Long story short, the custom cab guy we planned to use is now unavailable to do our project due to our time frame changing over the past several months.

    Anyway, one of the new guys we're interviewing who is a PA custom cabinet maker quoted us a price for beaded inset. He said if we do overlay or regular inset it will save us about $2000.

    Unfortunately he is more $ than our original custom guy but based on the quotes we've received so far (including several months back) our original guy was very LOW so I don't expect to find that price again. : (

    The kitchen is 16' x 16'. We have 45 feet of base cabinetry and 30.5 feet of uppers. His quote was about $35,000 including all the bells and whistles. Our original guy was $25,000 for full overlay but months back all the other quotes we got were 33,000-40,000--- some custom- some semi-custom.
    We still have two more custom quotes coming in this week.

    Here is our inspiration kitchen... again...

    kit-yel-brocadewallpaper-435

    Inset and Beaded Inset Pictures would be great and any thoughts on pricing... We're in NJ btw...

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 06.03.2012 at 11:11 am    last updated on: 06.03.2012 at 11:12 am

    Need info - people with apron sinks

    posted by: 35ftcabo on 05.23.2012 at 07:06 am in Kitchens Forum

    Counters were templated today. Granite guy measured so that the sink rim was entirely covered and just slightly overlapping. I wanted a slice of rim showing on the sides and back. He said it's so water doesn't get under the granite. My contractor said it's better to not overlap because it's then easier to bang into it with a pot and chip the stone. So....my question is - which style do you have? Any words of advice?

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 05.23.2012 at 04:15 pm    last updated on: 05.23.2012 at 04:15 pm

    Slab doors--are they always modern?

    posted by: laughable on 05.22.2012 at 10:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I've been reading the thread on easy to clean kitchens, and the owners of the flat slab doors have me convinced that these are the easiest to clean. I like the idea of easy to clean!

    But...

    are there any slab doors out there that don't look modern? I totally respect that look, but it just isn't "me" and it would be completely out of place in the kitchen of our 1840's house.

    Does anyone of have pictures of decidedly non-modern easy to clean slab doors? : ) Is there a happy marriage of form and function? Thanks!

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 05.23.2012 at 04:14 pm    last updated on: 05.23.2012 at 04:14 pm

    Can I duct through my chimney?

    posted by: fori on 05.17.2012 at 12:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

    (Kinda a cross post)

    I decided my central giant fireplace that backs onto my kitchen has to go. It's been mangled already so it's hard to justify it taking up so much space jutting into my living room.

    Anyway, my kitchen ventilation was removed in a previous remodel but I do have an attractive chimney right about where the stove should be. You can see where this is going.

    Any reason a chimney can't be modified to house a hood duct? I just redid my roof so I kind of want to keep the chimney anyway. Any other method of ducting would leave me with a vent on the front of the house. It's one-story and low so it would be nice to not have more stuff there...

    Stupid or worth investigating?

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 05.20.2012 at 12:31 pm    last updated on: 05.20.2012 at 12:32 pm

    What do you store in your kitchen drawers?

    posted by: Mom23Es on 03.07.2012 at 10:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I'm trying to make sure I have a good balance between cabinets and drawers in my new kitchen. In my current little kitchen I hardly have any drawers and none of them are the larger kind. I'm so excited to get BIG drawers that I feel like I might be a bit over zealous about it. I also know that all these special cabinets cost more than just a plain cabinet.

    So, what do you put in your kitchen drawers? The big ones and little ones?

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 05.08.2012 at 11:32 pm    last updated on: 05.08.2012 at 11:32 pm

    What size ? How many Knobs and Pulls on each drawer?

    posted by: cflaherty on 10.04.2011 at 10:59 am in Kitchens Forum

    Getting ready to order our door Knobs and Pulls for our Kitchen, Mudd Room and Half Bath. What is the recommendation for drawers that are the following sizes?

    24 7/8
    29
    29 13/16
    33

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 05.08.2012 at 11:27 pm    last updated on: 05.08.2012 at 11:27 pm

    Alternatives to recessed lights in kitchen??

    posted by: karkster on 04.23.2012 at 12:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Hello!

    My eyes are bulging from all the reading I've done over the last couple of days about kitchen lighting!! I'm sooooo ready for some HELP!!

    It all started with the lighting plan we received from our architect as part of our kitchen remodel. We have two rooms that will blend into each other (just separated by ceiling header)....one 11'L x 9'W and 10'L x 9'W, both with 9'6" ceiling height. Both areas have cabinets on both sides.

    The plans call for (8) 4" recessed lights in each area, two rows of (4) lights evenly spaced, about 30" apart = 16 lights total in the two areas. It looks like A LOT of recessed lights to me!!!

    My first thought was to simply reduce the number of lights to two rows of three so six lights instead of eight in each area..... perhaps changing to 5" cans instead of 4" just in case!

    However, now I'm questioning the use of can lights in general!! They seem to be in almost all new kitchens I've seen to one degree or another so I hadn't even questioned their use. The uncluttered, clean look that is lauded sounded like the right move. I'm now thinking I don't really like the look of all those holes, even when you use white trim that helps them blend in, and I'm sick and tired of seeing them. I don't want our kitchen to look like every other kitchen remodeled within a certain time frame.

    Having said that, I want our kitchen to be functional and not go to the opposite extreme of design over function. Bottomline question.....how about using a nice, unique overhead fixture in the middle of the primary area (one with sink)for the overall lighting? If we install undercounter lighting, would that be enough for the general lighting? Or should we still consider a few cans unless they'll just appear to be 'thrown in?' I'm not sure a fixture in both areas would look right, so we might need to succumb to recessed in the other area. Or, if we stick to the cans, should we cut down on the number of them as 16 in that amount of space seems like overkill?!

    I know a lot of this is personal preference but any feedback, ideas, photos! would be great.

    Thanks SO MUCH in advance for any assistance!!!

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 05.05.2012 at 01:35 pm    last updated on: 05.05.2012 at 01:35 pm

    Placement of Cabinet Hardware?!

    posted by: sarapamela on 04.24.2012 at 09:25 am in Kitchens Forum

    I'm excited to be at the "selection of cabinet hardware" stage of our renovation. As some of you know, it's been a project filled with twists and turns. Think we are up to Plan M or N by now : )

    Anyway, I've read many questions and answers about pulls vs. knobs, but am looking for guidance about where on the doors/drawer fronts they'd look best on our cabinets.

    I like a combination of knobs and handles, unless just one kind is better for a small kitchen? I originally was thinking of knobs on top and handles on bottom, but am reconsidering because I'm thinking that knobs might look lost on the taller upper cabinets. Would handles break them up a bit more than knobs, and if so, do you think they should they go vertically or across the bottom piece of trim?

    The biggest question concerns placement of hardware on the beadboard drawer fronts. Should knobs and/or handles go on the upper, smooth part above the beadboard or right in the middle of it? Afraid handles might look crowded on the smaller drawer fronts, but good on others? Would knobs look better on the drawers, and if so, where on the drawer front?

    Since it is way heavier than a regular cabinet door, should we use a handle on the 8" pull out pantry (to left of DW) or are knobs "strong" enough?

    Photobucket

    Haven't found handles I like yet, but may use decorative knobs on the glass doors on the corner cabinets that will be in the attached dining area.... For what it is worth, here are some of the decorative knobs we are considering. Afraid it would be too much to have them in kitchen, too, but hope to find handles that would look good with them... Thoughts? (Sorry I couldn't resize these photos even though I tried 3 times!)

    Photobucket Photobucket

    Photobucket

    I'd use a pair of the fish on the glass doors, but I think they should be facing each other, and they only seem to come "swimming" to the left, which would probably look odd next to each other!? Photobucket

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 04.27.2012 at 05:32 pm    last updated on: 04.27.2012 at 05:33 pm

    Will the range hood be loud?

    posted by: jamies on 04.14.2012 at 09:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Take a 100 cfm blower unit that does not have any quietness features added to it -- assume it's as loud as such a blower can be. If you put the blower on the roof, how will it sound in the kitchen?

    I don't like hearing the AC (or the neighbor's) when I'm in the yard, but I figure I could live with the hood blower because it won't be on nearly as long, and it usually won't be on at full power (it's variable speed).

    Plus, there's so much other noise outside that it's not quiet anyway. But inside I have a chance to keep things quiet.

    Will such a blower be loud (more than 5 sones) from the inside too?

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 04.16.2012 at 11:12 am    last updated on: 04.16.2012 at 11:12 am

    anyone stop using their sink grid?

    posted by: linelle on 02.17.2012 at 05:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

    A high-arc faucet with pull-down spray, with a deep, single-bowl sink with grid at the bottom are all new to me. I'm adjusting to the depth of the sink and learning not to splash too much, but I'm not so sure about the grid. I can see that it might be useful washing veggies (I have no separate prep sink) and letting stuff drain out of sight. However, I think it's just in the way for cleaning the sink. I have to chase little bits of cat food with the spray when it would be so much easier to swish it toward the drain with my hand. Little bits of this and that become stuck to the sink and grid itself, so I have to remove it and clean everything properly. As for minimizing scratches in the sink, I figure it's gonna happen anyway and the sooner the patina forms, the better.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 04.15.2012 at 10:52 pm    last updated on: 04.15.2012 at 10:52 pm

    RE: electrician talked me out of undercabinet lighting (Follow-Up #25)

    posted by: dan1888 on 04.09.2012 at 07:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Another consideration dor kitchens is circuits. He sounds out of date so make sure he runs 12g wire for 20A circuits with seperate circuits for a micro, another for the frig and another two for the disposal and dishwasher. Two more 20A circuits for countertop appliances at least.


    NOTES:

    Wiring for kitchen
    clipped on: 04.10.2012 at 12:33 pm    last updated on: 04.10.2012 at 12:33 pm

    Confused about how far out my counters should go over the cabinet

    posted by: texanniew on 03.13.2012 at 08:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Reading all the discussion about overhang/drip preventions ect I am confused about how far out my counters should go past the cabinets. I have pretty thick trim on my drawers. Does that make a difference? I think the granite will have a bullnose edge, does that make a difference???

    Here is a link that might be useful: cabinets

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 03.14.2012 at 01:39 pm    last updated on: 03.14.2012 at 01:39 pm

    Where is your dish towel?

    posted by: kentucky7 on 03.11.2012 at 04:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I'm still stuck on what to do with the kitchen to update it, so I spent time looking at the finished kitchens site. Trying to look at details, I suddenly realized I never saw anyone's dish towels...you know, the one you keep by the sink that everyone grabs to dry their hands. I saw one kitchen that had a hook on both sides of the window by the sink (forgive me, I fail to remember which kitchen) I know it must seem like a silly question, but I'm curious!

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 03.13.2012 at 07:51 am    last updated on: 03.13.2012 at 07:51 am

    Large modernaire hood - barrel or concave shape?

    posted by: lalitha on 02.13.2012 at 05:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I would love to see some of your modernaire hoods - PS 11(concave shape) and PS 26 (barrel shape). Wonder of wonders, getting a modernaire custom hood seems to be in the same ballpark as just getting a liner insert and having a framer or the cabinet guy build something. DH and I decided to make compromises in other places to fit this in our budget. We have a larginsh space for the hood between the cabinets on either side of the cooking zone. It is a galley kitchen and I am trying to figure out what will look nicer. Painted is around 1000 dollars cheaper than stainless. Here are the specs os my space.

    Space between cabinets - 57.5 inches
    Upper cabinet depth - 15 inches
    Soapstone counter depth for cooktops - 30 inches
    The aisle space in galley - 5 feet
    The ceiling is a tad lower than 8 feet

    My ceiling is aged medium tone wood planks. I have a window with a view to the backyard across from the cooktop and large 4X4 feet skylight well above me when I am standing in front of the cooktop.

    I like the barrel shaped PS 26 look in painted red with polished stainless bands but DH feels that it would look too huge in our kitchen. He prefers the concave look of PS 11.

    Would wide red barrel hood be too big for the kitchen? The sales guy suggested 27" or even 30" depth for the hood as my counters are deeper. Will this look too deep?
    Would stainless look better.. similar to histokitch's fabulous kitchen?

    We will have painted cabinets. I am thinking a pale green/ yellow uppers with a shade or two darker green base cabinets. The light in the kitchen is pretty filtered and as it is east and south facing, the light quality changes quite a bit.

    Lalitha

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 02.16.2012 at 08:17 am    last updated on: 02.16.2012 at 08:17 am

    question about bases with drawers

    posted by: ratrem on 01.13.2012 at 05:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

    We will have quite a few base cabs with drawers. Is it more useful to have one with 4 drawers instead, or have one with 3 equal size drawers instead of the standard thin on top with 2 deeps below?
    I have one large 36" base that I will keep with the standard drawer setup for large pots in the bottom two.
    I have 2 other 24" base cabinets and am wondering if I should keep both the same 3 drawer basic setup or if there is something more useful about the other sizes that I might be missing.
    Thanks for all the advice.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 01.14.2012 at 11:11 am    last updated on: 01.14.2012 at 11:11 am

    95% Finished Kitchen.

    posted by: alabamamommy on 07.11.2011 at 04:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Hiya folks! We're almost there. Moving in just weeks.

    I've been waiting for it to be finished to take the final pictures, but I've come to the conclusion that if I wait for all of the "blue tape" issues to be addressed, for the cleaning crew to clean up the construction gravy and/or to borrow someone's wide-angled lens, well, then it will be filled with our stuff. And with baby #3 on the way, well, God knows how long before the boxes will be broken down and we're truly settled.

    So, aside from a missing microwave, plastic still on the fridge doors (which are in the middle of their THIRD reinstallation) and general mish mash in the sandwich area - here's as close as we're going to get to photos of a finished kitchen this year : )

    Details as follows:
    Cabinets - Custom cabinet maker, inset shaker, SW Pearly White, Walnut Stained Trim
    Floors - Teak hardwood stained Jacobean (very hard, does not absorb to typical Jacobean dark!)
    Range - 48" Thermador Combo
    Venthood - Ventaire with 1600 CFM roof-mounted blower
    Sink - Franke
    Faucet - Brizo
    Pot Filler - DRATS I can't remember :)
    Hardware Pulls - Amerock Highland Ridge, Polished Nickel
    Hardward Knobs - Atlas
    Countertops Island - Alabama White Marble 6cm slab
    Countertops Perimeter - Caesarstone Pebble 2cm with mitered edge to 6cm
    Island Chopping Block - Boos Block Walnut End Grain 4inch
    Island Pendant Lights - Restoration Hardware Royal Seamaster (Discontinued)
    Refridgerator - Thermador 30" Freedom Column
    Freezer - Thermador 30" Freedom Column
    Double/Single Oven - GE Profile
    Backsplash - 4" Shiplap Wood Paneling whitewashed

    I'm sure I'm forgetting lots... heck, I barely know my name. So if anyone has any questions, please let me know. You've all been wonderful, and I sincerely enjoy just knowing that a community of such substantial depth and helpfulness exists. I wish I could invite you all over for coffee!!

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 01.13.2012 at 05:44 pm    last updated on: 01.13.2012 at 05:44 pm

    Rangehoods for Dummies

    posted by: tadhg555 on 01.09.2012 at 03:34 pm in Appliances Forum

    We are in the middle of planning a kitchen remodel, and have decided (99%) on a 36" 6-burner Capital Culinarian rangetop.

    Now I need to consider a range hood, and I'm afraid I'm not really sure how the different elements work together. For the past 10 years we've lived with a paltry little Nutone vent that hardly sucks up the steam from cooked rice, so our goal is to install a system that actually works. This is a priority for us (especially my wife), so we've got to get this one right.

    What we want:
    1. Effective - no greasy smoke swirling around the kitchen and into the dining room
    2. Quiet (as quiet as possible)
    3. Cost. We're willing to pay but don't want to go overboard. We are more concerned with effective operation than any bells and whistles or aesthetics.

    I have read about the Abakka Hyex exterior blowers and they look intriguing but I don't understand exactly how they work. What other elements would I need to purchase besides that unit? Ducting? A hood liner? What else? Would I need to buy everything from Abakka or could I mix and match manufacturers?

    We are in Northern California so I don't know that MUA is a factor. The hood will also be positioned between two windows.

    Any advice is appreicated!

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 01.10.2012 at 07:22 pm    last updated on: 01.10.2012 at 07:22 pm

    professional faucet versus tall faucet with pull down

    posted by: kaismom on 04.23.2010 at 01:17 am in Kitchens Forum

    I have narrowed down my needs:
    I need swivel faucet. Not as much as 360 but nearly 180 degree.
    I need spray that locks on. I do not want a sprayer that I have to hold down to spray.
    I need a faucet tall enough to clear large pots/vases.

    What I have not figured out is what professional spray type of faucets get you that a pull down spray would not, other than the looks. Tell me about your professional faucets.

    I LOVE Dornbracht Tara Ultra Single lever. I have not decided if I am splurging on this... I also want Dornbracht's little button that you push to open the drain. (They seem to use this much more in Europe, as our cousin has this and is REALLY cool.) I don't have a disposal, so this would be really handy! Does anyone know how one might research this product?

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 01.10.2012 at 03:38 pm    last updated on: 01.10.2012 at 03:38 pm

    Recessed lighting ?s - need decision by tomorrow

    posted by: gardenamy on 01.03.2012 at 10:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

    What size recessed lights did you use? 6" - 5" - 4"? Can you tell me why you chose what you did? How far apart did you space and how far away from cabinets?

    Obviously I know nothing about recessed lighting and I need a little information before tomorrow. Demo started 3 weeks early and I thought I had more time :)

    Electrician is coming tomorrow and I need to make a very quick decision, so I appreciate any responses.

    Thanks!

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 01.04.2012 at 09:52 am    last updated on: 01.04.2012 at 09:52 am

    Using more cloth towels and minimizing paper towel use

    posted by: lalitha on 12.23.2011 at 05:27 am in Kitchens Forum

    I would like to make it easy to use cloth towels instead of always reaching for paper towels in the kitchen. If you have done, can you please share ideas on what you did, what works and what does not.

    Here are specific questions:
    1) Towel Categories: How do you distinguish between dish drying towels, hand drying towels and counter wiping towels? Do you use dish rying towels for hand drying as well?

    2) What kind of towels (size/ fabric) work best for dish wiping. Lint dust and multiple passes to dry dishes would be a big deterrent. Is there a size that seems better for drying hands

    3) Towel storage: Where do clean towels live, where do you keep in-use towels?

    I currently have a mini laundry basket under the sink for the dirty towels - that works OK provided I don't *forget* to take it to laundry soon enough - that means mold spots. I do have a pullout towel drying rod but that seems hard to remember to use. Also I am never sure if that is to somewhat airdry the dirty towel before it goes into laundry or for clean towel.

    4) How do you train the family.. make it more easy/ intuitive to reach for cloth towels?

    5) Finally how many towels do you need for an average week (assuming I launder weekly). Do you change out towels once a day? At a specific time (like night after final clean-up etc.)

    thanks much

    Lalitha

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 12.23.2011 at 05:31 pm    last updated on: 12.23.2011 at 05:31 pm

    Question regarding cabinet finish (stained cabinets)

    posted by: kellienoelle on 12.14.2011 at 02:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I have a quick question regarding the ways is which custom cabinets are finished. We are working with a couple different local Custom Cabinetry folks, we are planning for dark stained cabinets, possibly a painted island. I have read a lot of different things about the type of finish, so don't know what is the most important

    Option one:
    Larger local cabinet maker, they will use birch, stain will be sprayed on then baked in oven, then installed. I have heard that this is the preferable way to finish cabinets, they are more durable. Another upside, they will finish the install and be done, so less disruption.

    Option two:
    Smaller local cabinet maker, they will use maple, they build and install, but have nothing to do with the finishing. But they do work with some other folks who will spray the stain on and finish in place in the kitchen. Of course the contractor that will be spearheading this says that this is preferable as the cabinets can potential be chipped and nicked during installation. So downside here is that it will take much longer to have them finished in our home. This guy came recommended by a friend who used them and has no complaints about the finish of her cabinets.

    So, how important is the finishing technique? We'll delve into the construction details after I decide if the method of finishing should be a total deal breaker.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 12.15.2011 at 09:22 am    last updated on: 12.15.2011 at 09:22 am

    Ventilation Qs - exterior distance, duct size, etc

    posted by: tncraft on 12.13.2011 at 10:07 am in Appliances Forum

    I didn't think about the total duct run we'll have in the house and how it should be considered when selecting the hood/blower/etc.

    I believe we can go straight up from the hood. The approximate total duct run will be 14 ft. Does this mean I have to go with a powerful blower? How many cfm? Does this also mean we have to go with a remote blower because of the duct length?

    We are going with a 36" induction cooktop, but will be configuring the kitchen to easily accomodate a gas rangetop (like the CC) in case I'm not totally happy with the induction and want to replace it with gas. So, we want the vent to also be able to handle a gas rangetop.

    I was looking at the Kobe and Cavaliere; both has up to 1000 cfm and 8" duct. Would either of these okay considering how far the duct run needs to be? Do we need to go with a more powerful blower?

    Another question, why use 8" or 10" duct? Is this based on the range hood's specification? So, if the Kobe hood says 8", I have to go with 8"? Or, can I go with 10"? Hope this is not a stupid question. LOL. Just wondering because out of the discussions I've read here, bigger seems better. ;)

    Oh, one more question.... On the Kobe (and other hoods), they include heat lamps. Why would one need those heat lamps? Am I missing what they are used for? I'm thinking, they are used to keep food warm?? But we won't have a high shelf, and the food will be on the rangetop. So, I just don't see any use of it. Am I wrong? This is the only thing I don't like about the Kobe hoods.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 12.13.2011 at 12:45 pm    last updated on: 12.13.2011 at 12:45 pm

    Remodel kitchen with 8 ft ceiling

    posted by: jjnv on 12.12.2011 at 10:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

    We are finally moving forward full speed on kitchen remodeling :-) I'd like to get help from you expert. Our house was built in 1985. We lived in it for over 12 years now. It has 8 ft ceiling throughout. The kitchen also has box-head on top of the cabinets.

    We'd like to remove the box-head for sure. We know it can be done since the neighbors already did it. They replaced the 30" cabinets with 42" cabinets. The kitchen looks too crowded IMHO. We have a few estimates and got the following options so far
    1. use 36" cabinet with 6" molding for center cabinet and corner cabinets, 30" for the rest
    2. use 36" cabinets throughout with 3" molding
    3. use 36" cabinets throughout with 6" molding
    3. use 39" cabinets with 3" molding.

    Has anyone done this before? I'd love to see finished pictures. Also wants advice on lighting options.

    I will upload design once I figure out how.

    Many many thanks for your help,

    Jane

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 12.13.2011 at 12:42 pm    last updated on: 12.13.2011 at 12:42 pm

    vent hoods and noise: the real scoop on vah!

    posted by: clinresga on 09.24.2008 at 09:02 pm in Appliances Forum

    OK: I've been following with great interest keitel's post on VAH hoods and noise. I'm in his camp: our VAH is noisy as all get-out. Others including shannonplus2, juliet3, and john.com have disagreed, arguing that their VAH's are "almost unoticeable on low" to quote john.

    So, I figured, time to get some objectivity into this discussion (excuse my ego, but I started a new post cuz I think this is of general interest and worried it would get lost in a VAH post).

    I pulled out my trusty Radio Shack SPL meter, normally used to calibrate the home theater, and took some readings (measuring from ear level when standing at usual cooking distance from range):

    Our Vent a Hood 42'' 600 cfm hood liner at the lake:
    65 decibels at low
    67 decibels at high

    Our Modern-Aire 64'' (1200 cfm) hood liner with remote inline Fantech FKD 10XL blower and LD10 silencer at the main house:
    60 decibels at high

    What does that mean? Well remember decibels are a measure of sound energy on a log scale. Thus, a three decibel increase represents a 10-fold increase in sound energy. Thus, 67 db represents about a 100-fold higher sound energy level versus 60 db.

    A more useful way of comparing these noise levels would be to reference them to everyday sounds. Here are some examples:

    60 db: "normal conversation"
    [Ref: http://www.howstuffworks.com/question124.htm]

    60 db: "conversation in quiet living room"
    [Ref http://www.epd.gov.hk/epd/noise_education/web/ENG_EPD_HTML/m1/intro_5.html]

    In contrast:

    65 db: "average road traffic at 25 meters from busy primary distribution road"
    see www.epd.gov above

    67 db: level of noise that Caltrans feels justifies construction of a soundwall by an existing freeway
    Ref: http://www.dot.ca.gov/dist07/resources/soundwalls/samples/synopsis.htm

    69 db: the sound of loud snoring

    70 db: vacuum cleaner at 10 feet
    Ref: http://trace.wisc.edu/docs/2004-About-dB/

    That's a fancy way of saying that the VAH is way noisy, and the MA/remote blower is very quiet.

    Could it be our ducting making our VAH noisy? Doubt it, since as I posted before it's a straight shot up from the hood directly into the attic (it's a one story house) and out the roof through 10'' ductwork. Could we have an unbalanced blower? I guess, though both of the two 300 cfm blowers in the VAh are equally noisy and I'd be surprised if they were both defective.

    Bottom line: this is an apples and oranges comparison. There is no way that it's fair to compare our inexpensive VAH to the very high end Modern-Aire liner/Fantech blower and silencer combo, and I'm not disparaging the VAH hoods, which obviously many folks have had a good experience with.

    I do think though that this reinforces my belief that if:
    1) you want high cfm ventilation
    2) noise is a major concern
    3) cost is not a primary issue

    then remote blowers, preferably with silencer, are clearly superior.

    Just my obsessive 2 cents worth :-)

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 12.12.2011 at 08:01 pm    last updated on: 12.12.2011 at 08:02 pm

    My hood lets in cold air!! Help!

    posted by: shorts on 12.10.2011 at 05:33 pm in Appliances Forum

    I have a 1200 cfm Broan above my BS and with winter coming I've started to feel tons of cold air coming in. Am I missing a damper or something? If so, do these come standard with Braun installation or was this something my builder should have done himself at installation?

    Now that the damage is done, what type of professional should I call to fix?

    Thanks!

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 12.11.2011 at 06:22 pm    last updated on: 12.11.2011 at 06:23 pm

    Warming drawer - who needs it?

    posted by: tncraft on 12.11.2011 at 09:52 am in Appliances Forum

    I never planned on getting a warming drawer. But now, I'm wondering if I would regret not getting one.

    We are a growing family with a 2 yr old. I'm trying to figure out if a warming drawer is something I would need eventually as our family grows and the kid/s grow up.

    So I'm curious, why did you get a warming drawer?

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 12.11.2011 at 06:21 pm    last updated on: 12.11.2011 at 06:21 pm

    27' depth hood?

    posted by: tncraft on 11.18.2011 at 12:52 pm in Appliances Forum

    Is it really necessary to have a 27" depth hood? I'm worried that it's sticking out too much and someone can easily hit their head on it. Well, maybe not me since I'm shorter than 6ft. lol. But how about others?

    Did you get a 27" depth hood? Any issues? If you have 24", do you regret it?

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 12.11.2011 at 12:21 am    last updated on: 12.11.2011 at 12:22 am

    moving a range hood by a few inches

    posted by: dee850 on 12.06.2011 at 05:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I'm considering moving the placement of my range hood by 3 inches when I replace the cabinets. My current hood vents straight up and out through the roof. Can a small move like this be done with an angled duct connector or a flexible piece? Yes, I know that sort of thing reduces the effectiveness of the ventilation, but I'm guessing it would be considerably cheaper and easier (we're mostly-DIYers) than creating a whole new path out to the roof. I'm not certain what kind of ducting is present now because it's enclosed in a wood surround - not sure if that matters.

    I've been searching for info on this for a while and coming up empty, but I'm hoping that some of you have dealt with this sort of thing before.

    NOTES:

    re angling duct, what materials to use
    clipped on: 12.09.2011 at 08:43 am    last updated on: 12.09.2011 at 08:43 am

    Help me choose a Miele DW?

    posted by: kmcg on 08.09.2011 at 04:53 pm in Appliances Forum

    I'm sold on a Miele dishwasher in the broad sense, but am having a hard time deciding which one. It would have to be in the lower price tier, and I really don't need a lot of bells and whistles. Don't need a water softener or a bunch of different cycles (6 is probably 5 more than I would ever use). Any Miele would be sufficiently quiet. I think I would love a model with the cutlery tray. I like the plate protector load feature, which I think might be missing on the lowest model Futura.

    Here's what I've seen at our local stores:
    Two appealing discontinued models - (1) an Inspira in white (which is okay, but I also like stainless) without the cutlery tray for under $850-ish (love this price) and (2) an Optima in stainless for $1550-ish.
    Between these 2 ends of my price spectrum are the new Futura models. The Classic in stainless runs just under $1300. It's a bit difficult to compare it to the Inspira; they both seem good, but would I be missing something major by going with the discontinued Inspira? And would I gain a lot by going with the Optima?

    I don't need a DW urgently, but these closeouts have piqued my interest. I could buy now if these are truly good deals. If I wait, are there certain times of the year when I should watch for Miele promotions, such as extended warranty?

    I'd love to hear your insights.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 12.07.2011 at 09:24 am    last updated on: 12.07.2011 at 09:24 am

    Range hood height location?

    posted by: tncraft on 12.05.2011 at 09:08 am in Appliances Forum

    At what height did you install your range hood? Did you follow the range/rangetop's recommended hood height? Or, did you follow the range hood's recommended height? How did you choose the height?

    I've seen range hood that says 27"-30" from the counter but range/rangetops indicating 30"-36" from the range.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 12.06.2011 at 07:11 pm    last updated on: 12.06.2011 at 07:11 pm

    Range hood with external blower and CC rangetop with grill

    posted by: aeliall on 12.04.2011 at 08:54 am in Appliances Forum

    We are building a 3-story rowhouse with the kitchen on the ground floor. I want to get a 48" CC rangetop with the bbq grill burner. From what I gather on this forum, a 1200 CFM range hood should be installed. The problem is that my husband is insisting on an external blower on the roof, which means 45' of ducting between the hood and the motor. Broan says that they guarantee 900 effective CFM for a 1200 CFM motor installed in this configuration. Do you think this will be sufficient to properly vent the kitchen? Has anybody used this range with a 900 CFM hood? Are you satisfied with the performance?

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 12.06.2011 at 12:06 pm    last updated on: 12.06.2011 at 12:06 pm

    Under sink trash pullout?

    posted by: pondlily on 11.08.2010 at 05:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I have a small kitchen and cabinets are at a premium, I'd like a trash/recycling pullout, but hate to loose a cabinet to one. Does anyone have this under the sink? My KD says they never work out under the sink. I'm guessing she's right, but I'm hoping it might be doable. Any other good use of under the sink cabinets? Thanks!

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 12.06.2011 at 07:56 am    last updated on: 12.06.2011 at 07:56 am

    ISO the perfect modern faucet - please show me yours

    posted by: kaysd on 11.23.2011 at 12:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I had the Kohler Vinnata in my last kitchen and loved its functionality. The kitchen in this house is going to be more modern, so I need something sleeker. I am looking for a single hole, single lever faucet with a pull down sprayer. I want a toggle switch that makes the spray stay on without holding the botton down. I would prefer that the spray setting stay on the next time the faucet is used, as we use the spray setting more often then the straight stream.

    I saw the MGS Progetti Unico faucet in a store and was drawn to its unique handle and overall design, but the $1950 MSRP is way more than I will pay for a faucet. (I have found it online for as low as $950, but that is still a little high, and I worry I might be buying a counterfeit at that discount.) I also like the new KWC Sin, but I am not sure it has the right type of spray control. DH has vetoed the Kohler Karbon as "hideous" (I really wanted one for my island prep sink).

    The local stores do not show many modern looking faucets, and I am looking for inspiration. Please show me your faucet or any sleek, modern looking faucets you like.

    The Unico:

    Here is a link that might be useful: Unico

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 11.28.2011 at 06:10 pm    last updated on: 11.28.2011 at 06:10 pm

    Ode To Banquettes and Breakfast Nooks

    posted by: dilly_ny on 10.27.2011 at 01:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I have been looking at alot of pictures of breakfast nooks and banquettes for our new kitchen. I thought I would share some pics for others who are considering this design. If you have a banquette or nook or inspiration pic, please post.

    Symmetrical Designs:

    With Windows:

    Photobucket

    Without Windows:
    Photobucket

    U shaped design:

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    L Shaped Design:
    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    Single Bench Design:
    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    Here is a link that might be useful: More Photbucket Nooks & banquettes

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 11.01.2011 at 06:17 pm    last updated on: 11.01.2011 at 06:18 pm

    How far out should the faucet extend over the sink?

    posted by: desertsteph on 04.15.2010 at 03:13 am in Kitchens Forum

    most sinks i'm looking at are about 22" in width (front to back). I've looked at a few that are about 20".

    I'm not looking at real tall f*aucets - about 12" would be my limit I think. then there's the measurement from the back edge out over the sink... does it make a big difference? I've seen one I like that was 7+" ... and one that is 10+"...

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 10.29.2011 at 02:29 pm    last updated on: 10.29.2011 at 02:30 pm

    Need Help With Sorting The Hype From Reality With Range Hoods

    posted by: sandy808 on 10.10.2011 at 01:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

    For those of you that do some heavy duty cooking is it true that my range hood truly needs to be 6 inches wider than my range dimensions, and 27 inches deep versus 24 inches deep? I accept that perhaps this may be the utmost ideal, but in the actual use, is it really?

    For example would a Bluestar 48 inch range really need a 54 inch wide hood that is 27 inches deep? That's a lot of hood to look at.

    I do realize the purpose of a hood is to ventilate, so if bigger is MUCH better then that's what I'll get. However, the same hood width as range looks much nicer and if it in truth works about as well, I feel going less clunky is a nicer look.

    Another issue is we were told Vent A Hood is the most superior and the quietest. But less face it, the undersides aren't what I consider "pretty".

    The baffle systems such as Best, Bluestar, or ModernAir are much more attractive, but are they noisier and less effective?

    I'm hoping to sort the sales pitches from the reality. This hood decision is driving me nuts.

    Sandy

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 10.11.2011 at 03:39 pm    last updated on: 10.11.2011 at 03:40 pm

    How To Use Ikea to Get a Custom Kitchen (High Quality)

    posted by: davidro1 on 06.22.2011 at 07:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

    this subject needs a thread of its own.

    you can use Ikea
    to save on costs, and
    to get almost everything you could want... because Ikea leaves you with enough money to go get those things you really want, at another place.

    Get from Ikea those parts and piece that you wish to use Ikea for, and buy the rest from other sources.

    Example.
    1/. buy the ikea bases
    and
    2a/. buy ikea-compatible drawer fronts and base cabinet doors from Scherr's and many others, or
    2b/. make your own, or
    2c/. hire a cabinet maker to make custom cabinet doors and drawer faces

    Many people who say they got it at ikea did not buy their entire kitchen from ikea.

    Many people who say they have Ikea, did not buy their entire kitchen there.

    For those who don't know this, it needs to be said.
    Ikea is never the place to go to, to get an entire kitchen.
    Ikea is the place to go to, to get most of the things you need.
    Ikea is the place to go to, to start your comparison shopping.
    Ikea is the place to go to, to get ideas.

    Hth

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 10.04.2011 at 08:09 am    last updated on: 10.04.2011 at 08:09 am

    Let's talk Trash!!

    posted by: lalitha on 09.28.2011 at 01:51 am in Kitchens Forum

    Here is what I want.. Please advise me what I need to do to get it?
    1. Trash near prep sink (Should it go to the left or right?)
    2. Operated by a foot pedal (Which brand? Item? How do these work? Does the trash come out all the way? Can you avoid touching the cabinet altogether with wet/ germy hands?)
    3. Recycle bin (larger than the trash. Our city is mixed recycling, so I do not need to sort)

    I am meeting with the cabinet guy tomorrow and I want to be specific about the trash set up. He has already indicated that he has not done any sort of foot pedal set up but is happy to do that if I tell him "exactly" what I want.

    Thanks

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.30.2011 at 08:01 am    last updated on: 09.30.2011 at 08:01 am

    knobs/pulls made in USA list

    posted by: lynn85 on 09.29.2011 at 10:57 am in Kitchens Forum

    I have been searching for knobs/pulls for my cabinets and would really like to use those made in USA (I don't want to be touching these several times a day and not know if they contain lead from China). I have found a few manufacturers who make them here was just wondering if anyone else has found others they could add?

    These sites all have knobs made in the USA, SOME of them also have knobs made elsewhere, you just have to watch or call them to confirm.

    http://www.usa-knobs.com/usa-made-laurey-cimarron-collection.html

    http://www.colonialbronze.com/

    http://www.schaubandcompany.com/index.html

    http://www.mountainstreamforge.com

    http://www.horton-brasses.com/

    www.te-ma.com

    http://www.anneathome.com/content/index.cfm?fuseaction=showContent&contentID=47&navID=43

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.30.2011 at 07:56 am    last updated on: 09.30.2011 at 07:56 am

    differing sink depths between gw & nkba/ansi

    posted by: aloha2009 on 09.20.2011 at 12:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

    There definately seems to be a preference with GWers for a deep sink (9-10") in the kitchen. From my understanding it has to deal mostly with the ability to stack up dishes waiting for the dishwasher.

    As I researched I came across the

    NKBA recommendation "The sink should be shallow to allow full access�no deeper than six inches" and the

    ANSI "The sink bowl should be no more than 6 1/2" deep (ANSI 117.1 1002.12.4.3)"

    I'm placing the sink on the island and so I would love to be able to have a place to hide away the dishes as much as possible but it's hard to ignore these very respected institutions recommendations.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.21.2011 at 09:53 am    last updated on: 09.21.2011 at 09:53 am

    Beverage Center: good, better, best?

    posted by: gharborwa on 02.25.2011 at 02:38 pm in Appliances Forum

    I need a beverage center for a new house build. Was told Sub-z should be the way to go, but was quoted $1900. Any ideas on other options? Will be keeping some wine, soft drinks, mixers in there. Thanks!

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.18.2011 at 09:25 pm    last updated on: 09.18.2011 at 09:25 pm

    Is there any way to make vent hood quieter?

    posted by: sayde on 09.16.2011 at 07:22 pm in Appliances Forum

    We have the Prestige 1200 CFM blower motor installed in a custom hood. The 10 inch duct goes straight back into the garge and then straight up about 8 feet and out the garage roof. The fan works quite well but it is really noisy. Or so it seems to me.

    Is there anything we can add to the system to make it quieter?

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.18.2011 at 09:18 pm    last updated on: 09.18.2011 at 09:19 pm

    What info do I need to figure out my hood ventilation?

    posted by: lynettefrancois on 06.16.2011 at 09:56 pm in Appliances Forum

    I'm a little confused on what information I need to gather in order to choose how to ventilate my kitchen. What I know so far:

    1. I'm getting a 36" Bosch induction cooktop.
    2. The outside of the hood is going to be constructed from 2x4 with drywall over it. I'm planning for the sides and front to be curved in and to have the cabinet man put a wooden "skirt" around it at the bottom.
    3. I know I want baffles.
    4. I would like the bottom of the hood to be at least 5'10" high.
    5. The kitchen is vaulted and the cooktop wall backs up to attic space once you go over 10 or 12 feet high.
    6. I need to ask the HVAC people if I need a MUA system.
    7. The hood capture area should be at least 3" wider on each side of the cooktop.
    8. I only have about $800 left for the guts of my ventalation system. (BIG SIGH)

    What I don't know:
    1. How do I figure out how many CFM I need with my induction cooktop?

    2. How far the ducting needs to go to exit the house, and whether it needs to turn to get out.

    3. What brands of blower should I look at? Do you get the silencer from the same company as the blower you buy, or is that interchangable as well? Would anyone choose a roof blower (wrong terminology, I know) over an in-line blower with a silencer if they have attic space for in-line? Not sure I understand the differences between them.

    4. I've seen Independent, Prestige, ModernAire, Rangecraft listed as good liners, but which is the best bang for the buck? Which ones were seamless and is that really important? I just want it to be easy to clean.

    5. Does the liner need to be a certain size, or just the "capture area" ie the inside of the hood? I would like the hood pretty large as it fits the proportions of the space and I have no upper cabinets. What do you put between the baffles and the edge of the hood then if I get a 36" liner and I have a 48" hood? I also seem to recall something about recessing the liner so it isn't even with the hood. In other words, higher on the inside than the outside. Does this mean I need a custom liner I can't afford?

    6. How the heck am I going to do this for $800???? (Now my eyes are rolling...)

    Thanks in advance! I just want to move in already!!!!!

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.16.2011 at 07:07 pm    last updated on: 09.16.2011 at 07:07 pm

    which warming drawer do you like

    posted by: judysims84 on 11.30.2010 at 01:37 pm in Appliances Forum

    trying to pick a warming drawer and was considering the viking, thermador or dacor. interested in hearing any thoughts good or bad - or if there is a different brand you recommend.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.13.2011 at 12:09 pm    last updated on: 09.13.2011 at 12:10 pm

    RE: What are the basics of a decent tile job, please? (Follow-Up #6)

    posted by: bill_vincent on 03.02.2008 at 09:07 am in Bathrooms Forum

    Maybe they're tighter than they look in the picture. If there's absolutely NO space whatsoever between tiles, then yes, you're right-- grout won't stay. The grout does need to get into the joint in order to anchor itself. As for the Bullnose, it's very common, and although it's not the most attractive thing, the alternative from before the companies started doing that (when the bullnose sometimes ended up being BIGGER, and throwing the coursing right out the window, or making it necessary to trim the edge of each piece) was alot worse.

    As for what constitutes a good tile job:
    >The tiles are laid level, flat, and plumb.

    >Coursing is in a straight line. WIth reference to the brick joint, you should be able to put a straight edge up to the wall, and every other tile should line up vertically.

    >Grout joints are uniform.

    >Corner joints are uniform, and no bigger than the grout joints in the field of the tile.

    >Cuts, when possible, are no less than 1/2 a tile (Obviously, this one goes out the window with brick joint) and are made with a nice smooth edge.

    >Tiles are well adhered with a minimum of 85% coverage on each tile.

    >With reference to the sheet tile you had removed, once grouted you shouldn't be able to see any sheet lines. The tile should flow with no interruption to its end.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 03.02.2008 at 10:32 am    last updated on: 03.02.2008 at 10:33 am

    Black drains (Follow-Up #7)

    posted by: imrainey on 10.19.2007 at 05:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Oh! Had to add to look for the oil rubbed bronze drain assembly. There are air switches that come in ORB too.

    Much less obtrusive so there isn't any competition with the beauty of the stone.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 10.19.2007 at 08:06 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2007 at 08:06 pm

    RE: soapstone sink owners: pros, cons? also, solid vs. slab? (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: florida_mimi on 10.19.2007 at 03:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I miss my old soapstone sink... (I'm dealing with an off white corian one right now) Josh built one for our old apartment out of scraps.. it was a HUGE sink. My only complaints and forwarnings about soapstone sinks are they aren't very forgiving to wine glasses or any glasses. Nothing bounces in these sinks. It's also wise to have a sprayer. The sprayer is very helpful in cleaning the square corners of the built sinks. I didn't have a dishwasher in the old apt. so I hand washed everything. The sink would show an oil/no oil line where I filled the water to. The bottom also had a lot of character from dropping and scraping things across the bottom, but when it was oiled those dings and scratches melted away :)
    Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
    Don't ya just love those cabinets and hardware??? LOL :) That was my only streatch of countertop except for a small piece you can't see next to the stove. Our landlords cried the day we moved out.. we increased the value of that place 500X's. :) but anyways...

    The carved sinks are beautiful!! Forwarnings.. The bottoms should be ground down so they slope. Some, not all of the carved sinks from Brazil have flat bottoms so the water can puddle.. but I know some shops sand or grind them down.

    To answer the question of how they are held together. We use a two part apoxy and then test the sinks for 24 hours after the apoxy hardens by filling them with water and a stoper. Never had any problems with leaking. We normally tounge and groove our sinks and with some of the harder sinks I think it's called a dato(sp?)joint. Josh can explain it better.

    but if you have a chance, go on ebay and see if there are any old soapstone sinks for sale. Sometimes they post the dates from when they were made.. it's amazing how they have stood the test of time.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 10.19.2007 at 08:05 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2007 at 08:05 pm

    Pics of (almost) finished Row House. Lots of Pics

    posted by: hobokenkitchen on 07.02.2007 at 06:24 pm in Home Decorating Forum

    Some people asked to see pics of the rest of the house after I posted a pic of the living room.
    In case anyone is interested, here they are. It's been a year long labor of love, but I am good at taking constructive critisism if anyone has any to offer!

    Most of the house came down to stud. We installed two zone HVAC and built an addition on the house.

    We restored and repointed the brick and brownstone facade - used to be painted:

    Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
    Shot with Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT at 2007-07-02

    Living Room (we're leaving the leather chair!) : ):

    Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
    Shot with Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT at 2007-07-02

    The whole kitchen area is part of the addition. A year ago there was nothing here. The cabinets are custom and the island is brushed finish Limestone:

    Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
    Shot with Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT at 2007-07-02

    Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
    Shot with Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT at 2007-07-02

    Where the dining room ends and the stairs start, used to be the back of the house:

    Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
    Shot with Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT at 2007-07-02

    This is the room we use as the master bedroom as it is on the back of the house and therefor blissfully quiet. It is also part of the new addition and has an ensuite bathroom:

    Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
    Shot with Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT at 2007-07-02

    Ensuite bathroom with Restoration Hardware vanity, Toto toilet and two person walk in shower:

    Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
    Shot with Canon EOS
    DIGITAL REBEL XT
    at 2007-07-02

    Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
    Shot with Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT at 2007-07-02

    Second Bedroom:

    Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
    Shot with Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT at 2007-07-02

    Guest Bathroom with 6ft soaking tub and Kohler Memoirs series sink and toilet:

    Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
    Shot with Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT at 2007-07-02

    Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
    Shot with Canon EOS
    DIGITAL REBEL XT
    at 2007-07-02

    Third Bedroom - we will probably put a full size bed in here and remove the exercise equipment. We haven't really gotten around to doing anything to this room yet. Has a skylight and walk in California closet:

    Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
    Shot with Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT at 2007-07-02

    Powder Room (not yet complete):

    Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
    Shot with Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT at 2007-07-02

    Then we have a backyard which is still a work in progress. The kitchen has a composite deck off it which is nice, and the backyard has a beautiful Dogwood tree which is amazing in the Spring. The backyard itself still needs so much help though.
    So that's it! A year later and we're almost done - and now we will probably sell it because of DH's job. Oh well.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.28.2007 at 10:38 pm    last updated on: 09.28.2007 at 10:38 pm

    RE: Massive crisis $100k- warning: lots of venting (Follow-Up #139)

    posted by: celticmoon on 09.14.2007 at 12:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Anyone else with the urge to say "Move along folks. Nothing to see here."? I'm as guilty as anyone in not being able to turn away.

    It is pretty clear to me that Dianalo is in overdrive and having trouble even considering the "doing nothing for now" option. Most of us have been there. It is hard to stop and consider abandoning something you have put your heart and soul into. But if ever there was a situation calling for a halt...

    So.... one more try:

    From the kitchen junkie: Diana, there is no way to pull off this scale project or anything anywhere remotely close for 100k. Especially with a goal of your 50's tract house ending up with the 'character of the 30s and 40s'. The type of 'fit and finish' and craftsmen necessary to get that look is massively expensive. Can't happen on your budget given all that structural work of roof, foundation, etc. It can't.

    And from the shrink: You've had over a hundred people here try to tell you the above. You are not listening.

    You've also had over a hundred people implore you to stop, take a break. As in, a week or more of forcing your head elsewhere. As in, get some sleep. As in, go back and do the stuff you did before this took over your life. You are not listening.

    Your DH is doing the caveman, wounded, angry, freaked out 'the-shelter-I-can-provide-my-family-is-not-good-enough?!' war dance. (Men seeem to always get their virility/adequacy entangled in proposed change somehow, don't they?) You are not listening.

    Your DS is starting to channel the stress, and the reno hasn't even started. That call from the DS's school wasn't to tell you he is cute. You are not listening.

    Maybe they both are saying "I can't handle the stress/cost of this remodel."

    I guess "indomitable" is one word for it, but....

    Wishing you the strength to stop for a couple weeks, and clarity and creativity when you resume refreshed.



    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.24.2007 at 01:08 pm    last updated on: 09.24.2007 at 01:08 pm