Clippings by yukkuri_kame

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RE: Collards x Turnip Cross? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: E.M.Smith 9a (Guest) on 05.15.2011 at 03:19 pm in Hybridizing Forum

You can get a variety of 'cross species' crosses in the Brassica and some of the more interesting types are a direct result of one of the various '3 way' interspecific crosses possible. I've attached a link to a chart that shows them.

B. Juncea (Mustard Greens) are a result of a cross of B. Nigra (black mustard) with B. Rapa (turnips, field mustard, turnip mustard).

B. Napus (rhutabaga, rapeseed)a cross of B. Rapa with B. Olerica (cabagges, kales, broccoli, etc. as above.

B. Carinata (Abyssinian Mustard) a cross of B. Olerica and B. Nigra.

Who knows what other crosses they have had. The Brassicas are a bit "loose" with their genes... ;-)

So while I'd guess what you have is a wild "turnip mustard" it could just as easily be a strange cross...

You had turnips (B. Rapa) and a collard (B. Olerica) so if they crossed you could easily have gotten a new variety of Rhutabaga.

I'd trial it and see if it was any good. Pretty much all the candidates are edible in one way or another...

Here is a link that might be useful: Brassica crosses


hmmm... wonder if we can cross tree collards with cabbages or other brassicas?
clipped on: 11.22.2011 at 09:09 am    last updated on: 11.22.2011 at 09:10 am

RE: Growing water chestnuts (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: Solanum on 02.23.2005 at 05:03 pm in Asian Vegetables Forum

You can indeed grow water chestnuts in a kiddy pool... You half-fill the pool with soil, water well (until the soil is wet but not soggy) and plant the tubers at 12" intervals in all directions. When the plants are about 2" tall, you add water to flood the soil. The level of water must be about 1 1/2-2" above the soil level all through the growing period. From time to time you can add a bit of fertilizer or well-rotted manure to the container. When the plants start to wither, the water is slowly drained and when the plants have died down completely, you can harvest the tubers.

The most important part is the spacing of the tubers as overcrowding means tiny tubers which are a real pain to clean and prepare for cooking!


Geoff Lawton says one of the most productive crops in pounds/sq ft
clipped on: 11.17.2011 at 01:52 am    last updated on: 11.17.2011 at 01:52 am

RE: Important Questions Before Taking the Permaculture Design Cou (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: burra_maluca on 07.07.2009 at 05:04 am in Permaculture Forum

If you really want the certificate but don't want to risk being a paying WWOOFer, you could do the online one with Permaculture Visions. I'm doing this at the moment with my son, who is homeschooled and needs a few bits of paper to wave at various authorities who seem to think education is equivalent to certificates. The tutor gave me a special 2-for-1 discount so I get to study it with my son and pick up a certificate of my own at the end. Also, there are no time limits so you can do as much background reading and hands-on stuff as you like.

I think the idea of doing the full design course is supposed to be that you are then qualified not only to design for other people, but also to teach them, so that the ideas spread, but I think in practice it tends to end up a bit like a pyramid selling scheme.

There are some wonderful books and dvds around to learn from if you don't want to do the full design course, and you could probably build up quite a good library of them for what you'd spend on a course, too.


clipped on: 04.30.2010 at 11:57 pm    last updated on: 04.30.2010 at 11:57 pm