Clippings by yolande_1951

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RE: Have you cooked a Turkey in your Miele Wall Oven? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: canuck99 on 11.15.2008 at 11:06 am in Appliances Forum

OK only 1 turkey done so far. Turkey defrosted and in fridge with the internals removed when you can. If it was fresh I would take it out and remove all internals and let it warm up 30-40 minutes.

We cooked the Masterchief which is auto roast (sears the outer as mentioned and the MC lowers to 305. Stuck the probe in and lower the temp by 5 deg from 190 set to 185 internal. The estimate on a 15-20 lb turkey is 3 hr 50 mins. Not sure how long it took for sure but this does not include resting time or carving time. i think we cooked a 15-16 lb turkey. I think the time maybe an rough quess based on 17.5 lb turkey if you pick 15-20.

Ok here is where the beauty comes in. We did not baste the turkey or cover it with foil nothing. It came out brown and very moist. The searing must lock in the flavour and brwon the outer the 305 must then must slow roast the internals. We got a turkey that used butter as part of the solution do not know if that helped avoid the basting? You could watch the browning of the outside take place early on.

The best part was the estimted time to cook. Keep a close eye on thetime it will stop moving from time to time. I think the stopping or slowing down is the fact it is always correcting the time basted on what is/is not happening.

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clipped on: 11.15.2008 at 03:19 pm    last updated on: 11.15.2008 at 03:19 pm

RE: Do you like or hate your 4-foot-wide island? Can I see a pict (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: yolande_1951 on 10.26.2008 at 05:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our island is 105" x 52". I am 5'1 1/2" tall and I do have to clean from both sides, but I love the working space, the eating space and the space for buffets. Here is a picture:
island 105&quot; x 52&quot;

Photobucket

Judy

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clipped on: 10.29.2008 at 08:50 pm    last updated on: 10.29.2008 at 08:50 pm

RE: help!!! h 4890 bp2 masterchef double oven noise complaint (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: rococogurl on 10.23.2008 at 03:58 pm in Appliances Forum

Judy -- Fillets up to 3/4" thick. If thicker, they can go up to 22 minutes. I pat them dry, oil a bit, salt, pepper onion powder, garlic powder. When I get fancy I smear with dijon mustard and breadcrumbs. Very thin tomato slices can go under the breadcrumbs if you want. Sometimes I mix a little horseradish into the mustard. Sometimes marinate the fillets in teriyaki. It's a dopey recipe, easy to change and always comes out great. Last time for company I bought salmon, sliced it in portions, pushed it back together and topped it off as one piece with a mixture of minced garlic cooked in some butter with breadcrumbs and minced parsley stirred in (s&P unless breacrumbs are preseasoned). It looked very elegant -- like nearly a side of fish but easy to serve.

Autoroast rocks.

For chicken, I do it at 400 on autoroast right on the rack with the pan slipped in underneath to catch the drippings. Don't forget to put in the spatter shield. First I pat the outside dry and rub it with oil and seasonings. It comes out crisp all around. I roast it whole or sometimes cut it down the back and roast it flat. 1 hour 10-15 minutes, till leg juices run clear.

Chicken breasts can go on rack same way. With bones they should cook in about 20-25 minutes unless very large. I don't change the heat, just cook a bit longer when larger/heavier.

First time I used the probe I was doing a rib roast, which I like med-rare. Set the doneness for 135. 20 minutes before it was done it beeped me! I didn't trust it would be done but it was perfect. So now I use probe, a no brainer.

They told me to not open the oven at all during cooking so there's no heat loss.

Only issue is how long the thing cooked -- that wasn't clear the first time because I was going for the done temperature. So I used a general calculation, as I would have done before and leave things out for a few hours so they are not so cold in center and they cook a bit faster. But with the 20 minutes warning, it felt like I had kitchen help.

For large cuts of meat I love the probe. It needs to be fully inserted right in the center.

Rotisserie is fabulous but I only use it for guests because it's messy and more than usual clean up. But incredibly delicious chicken. I'm going to try a lamb on a spit thing with it too.

I bake bread with great results. Angel cakes. If I use a mix (sometimes when I'm lazy) it comes out right to the minute of the baking directions.

It just has a learning curve. I still use my book that came with the oven to figure out which setting when I do something new. I'm getting very addicted to intensive.

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clipped on: 10.24.2008 at 10:21 am    last updated on: 10.24.2008 at 10:22 am

RE: help!!! h 4890 bp2 masterchef double oven noise complaint (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: trailrunner on 10.20.2008 at 05:30 pm in Appliances Forum

Yes please do let me know. I am always amazed at how quickly the oven preheats. I used to start the oven as I began mixing up a cake as my old ovens always took that long to preheat. I soon learned that I didn't need to start the preheat until I was pouring the batter into the pans ! Big difference LOL.

Yes I always use convection setting. We mostly bake...breads and cakes and roasted vegs or chickens. I use convection bake or convection roast the most. I have used the probe for a turkey and it did great.

also it you are going to use the broiler a tip I discovered. always use maxi broil and put in the food as it is starting...by the time it reaches it's hottest it is already done and you can shut it off...that is for garlic bread etc. I haven't tried it for meats.

we love the rotisserie and it does work very well.

How did you do the fish. I would love to try it. What size and kind and how long...etc...recipe ?? THANK YOU ! c

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clipped on: 10.24.2008 at 10:20 am    last updated on: 10.24.2008 at 10:21 am

RE: help!!! h 4890 bp2 masterchef double oven noise complaint (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: rococogurl on 10.23.2008 at 10:47 am in Appliances Forum

Thanks to trailrunner's sage advice, I also have a Miele oven. Love it. Very accurate. I don't use the masterchef settings at all, never have.

I use all the other ones. Thing about Bake is that it's good for straight stuff like baked potatoes. It's the least useful of all the settings, I found.

Preheat is accurate but since the oven's a bit big I usually give it a little extra time. Mostly I use my own recipes, all t&ts and have used for years. I know the oven's accurate since these come out exactly as they always did, same temps, same time.

I roast fish fillets -- 400 on autoroast for 18 mins. Also use autoroast, same temp, for chicken.

Have you tried the probe?

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clipped on: 10.24.2008 at 10:21 am    last updated on: 10.24.2008 at 10:21 am

RE: help!!! h 4890 bp2 masterchef double oven noise complaint (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: trailrunner on 10.19.2008 at 01:53 am in Appliances Forum

Hey Judy. I have used most all functions except plain bake. I had already heard that convection ovens do not do well on regular bake. I have used pretty much all other settings and I can honestly say that I turn the oven on as I am getting the finishing touches on the item to be baked and we are ready at the same time.

I have not checked temps with a thermometer (except internal temp) since every thing I have baked from bread to vegetables has baked at the same time as they should have.

As to "fish" roasting I would not use the oven for this so don't know . I don't use MasterChef. I haven't needed it. I may try at the Holidays but with a chef in the family it isn't likely LOL.

I really think from your posts that your thermostat is messed up. I am surprised as they are really a great quality product. Let me know how it works out for you. c

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clipped on: 10.24.2008 at 10:20 am    last updated on: 10.24.2008 at 10:20 am

RE: help!!! h 4890 bp2 masterchef double oven noise complaint (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: trailrunner on 10.23.2008 at 03:22 pm in Appliances Forum

This is the Challah I have been making since 1976...this has been a great thread. And thank you rococo girl !

Makes 3 braids and I double it --

Dissolve 5 tsp or 2 packets of dry yeast in 1 1/2 c warm water. Add 1/4 c sugar and stir to dissolve. Wait til yeast is foamy and add 1/4 c butter ( or pareve if Kosher) softened and 3 whole eggs. Whisk together.

In KA mixer or Cuisinart food processor mix 6 1/2 c unbleached or bread flour and 2 tsp salt. Start KA or processor and slowly pour in liquids. Process till smooth satiny dough. May need up to another 1/2 c flour or a few Tbsp. water....depends on the weather and the flour. Let rise til double in greased bowl covered ...about 1 hr. Degas and shape into 3 braids or may make burger buns or dinner rolls or even regular 9"x5" pan loaves. Let rise til less than double. Bake 350 degrees 30 min. til hollow when tapped on bottom. May glaze with 1 eggyolk diluted w/ 2 tsp 1/2 and 1/2 and decorate w/ sesame or poppy seeds.

Challah

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clipped on: 10.24.2008 at 10:19 am    last updated on: 10.24.2008 at 10:19 am

RE: How do you store a LARGE collection of spices? (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: many_hats on 02.11.2008 at 11:02 am in Kitchens Forum

I also use a drawer similar to some of the photos above but I have small metal containers with magetic bottoms. I slid a very thin piece of metal (from HD ~$11.00) under my Life Liner and the spices don't move (you can see the grey colour of it under the spices). The taller containers are from Lee Valley; they do not come with magnetic bottoms but I took some magnetic tape and cut pieces to fit the bottoms then glued them on. They all have glass lids so I can see quantities at a glance. The smaller ones have lids that twist to holes for shaking and a wide port for pouring.

The drawer is 24" wide, 21" deep; the face front is 6 1/4" high and the inside sides are 4 1/4" high. I have just under 40 spices stored so it's not a huge collection but I also have room for a 7 1/2" wide knife block and utensil storage as well so it could hold a lot more spices if I removed those.

spice drawer.

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clipped on: 09.26.2008 at 09:32 pm    last updated on: 09.26.2008 at 09:32 pm

Miele wall ovens

posted by: workerbee-peonies on 05.27.2008 at 12:06 pm in Appliances Forum

Hi
I have a Miele double oven. Does anyone else have one and how is the temperature settings? My meat always comes out undercooked so I am thinking the probe is off or the temperature is off. Has anyone else had this problem and can it be fixed by the repairman? The Miele tech came out but he said he can't fix it and I just have to adjust my times. Why did I pay 4000 for an oven that I have to adjust every temp and cooking time? This happens even if I use the Masterchef settings. The oven is 10 degrees and more off per the tech.

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clipped on: 09.26.2008 at 12:42 am    last updated on: 09.26.2008 at 12:42 am

RE: Induction vs. Gas Cooking pros and cons (Follow-Up #49)

posted by: canuck99 on 09.20.2008 at 10:07 am in Appliances Forum

Judy,

We had a Jamie Oliver set of pans and have received the Henkels. Do not use anything on the top no towels and no pads. Need to clean the top not just wipe off. Think of cleaning glass with grease splatter with a damp cloth. What you get is a window with a slightly greasy film. Use Cerma Bryte type cream to get the top back to a new look.

The only pans we plan to get are some Demeyre fry pans will eventually get 3 sizes to supplement what we have.

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clipped on: 09.25.2008 at 10:11 pm    last updated on: 09.25.2008 at 10:12 pm

Stone Information and Advice (& Checklists)

posted by: buehl on 04.14.2008 at 02:56 am in Kitchens Forum

First off, I want to give a big thank-you to StoneGirl, Kevin, Joshua, Mimi, and others (past and current) on this forum who have given us many words of wisdom concerning stone countertops.

I've tried to compile everything I saved over the past 8 months that I've been on this Forum. Most of it was taken from a write-up by StoneGirl (Natural stone primer/granite 101); other threads and sources were used as well.

So...if the experts could review the information I've compiled below and send me comments (here or via email), I will talk to StarPooh about getting this on the FAQ.


Stone Information, Advice, and Checklists:

In an industry that has no set standards, there are many unscrupulous people trying to palm themselves off as fabricators. There are also a number of people with odd agendas trying to spread ill rumors about natural stone and propagate some very confusing and contradictory information. This is my small attempt at shedding a little light on the subject.

Slab Selection:

On the selection of the actual stone slabs - When you go to the slab yard to choose slabs for your kitchen, there are a few things you need to take note of:

  • Surface finish: The finish - be it polished, honed, flamed antiqued, or brushed, should be even. There should be no spots that have obvious machine marks, scratches, or other man made marks. You can judge by the crystal and vein pattern of the stone if the marks you see are man-made or naturally occurring. It is true that not all minerals will finish evenly and if you look at an angle on a polished slab with a larger crystal pattern, you can clearly see this. Tropic Brown would be a good example here. The black spots will not polish near as shiny as the brown ones and this will be very obvious on an unresined slab when looking at an acute angle against the light. The black specks will show as duller marks. The slab will feel smooth and appear shiny if seen from above, though. This effect will not be as pronounced on a resined slab.

    Bottom line when judging the quality of a surface finish: Look for unnatural appearing marks. If there are any on the face of the slab, it is not desirable. They might well be on the extreme edges, but this is normal and a result of the slab manufacturing process.

  • Mesh backing: Some slabs have a mesh backing. This was done at the plant where the slabs were finished. This backing adds support to brittle materials or materials with excessive veining or fissures. A number of exotic stones will have this. This does not necessarily make the material one of inferior quality, though. Quite often, these slabs will require special care in fabrication and transport, so be prepared for the fabricator to charge accordingly. If you are unsure about the slabs, ask your fabricator what his opinion of the material is.

  • Cracks and fissures: Yes - some slabs might have them. One could have quite the discussion on whether that line on the slab could be one or the other, so I'll try to explain it a little.

    • Fissures are naturally occurring features in stone. They will appear as little lines in the surface of the slabs (very visible in a material like Verde Peacock) and could even be of a different color than the majority of the stone (think of those crazed white lines sometimes appearing in Antique Brown). Sometimes they could be fused like in Antique Brown and other times they could be open, as is the case in the Verde Peacock example. They could often also go right through the body of the slab like in Crema Marfil, for instance. If you look at the light reflection across a fissure, you will never see a break - i.e., there will be no change in the plane on either side of a fissure.

    • A crack on the other hand is a problem... If you look at the slab at an oblique angle in the light, you will note the reflection of the shine on the surface of the stone. A crack will appear as a definite line through the reflection and the reflection will have a different appearance on either side of the line - there will be a break in the plane. Reject slabs like this. One could still work around fissures. Cracks are a whole other can of worms.

    • Resined slabs: The resin gets applied prior to the slabs being polished. Most of the resin then gets ground off in the polishing process. You should not be able to see just by looking at the surface of a slab whether it was resined or not. If you look at the rough sides of the slab, though, you will see some drippy shiny marks, almost like varnish drips. This should be the only indication that the slab is resined. There should never be a film or layer on the face of the stone. With extremely porous stones, the resining will alleviate, but not totally eliminate absorption issues and sealer could still be required. Lady's dream is an example. This material is always resined, but still absorbs liquids and requires sealer.

    • Test the material you have selected for absorption issues regardless - it is always best to know what your stone is capable of and to be prepared for any issues that might arise. Some stones indeed do not require sealer - be they resined or not. Baltic Brown would be an example here. It will not absorb one iota of anything, but it is still resined to eliminate a flaking issue.

Tests (especially for Absolute Black) (using a sample of YOUR slab):

  • To verify you have true AB and not dyed: Clean with denatured alcohol and rub marble polishing powder on the face. (Get denatured alcohol at Home Depot in the paint department)

  • Lemon Juice or better yet some Muratic Acid: will quickly show if the stone has alot of calcium content and will end up getting etched. This is usually chinese stone, not indian.

  • Acetone: The Dying usually is done on the same chinese stone. like the others said, acetone on a rag will reveal any dye that has been applied

  • Chips: Using something very hard & metalhit the granite sharply & hard on edges to see if it chips, breaks, or cracks


Measuring:

  • Before the templaters get there...
    • Make sure you have a pretty good idea of your faucet layout--where you want the holes drilled for all the fixtures and do a test mock up to make sure you have accounted for sufficient clearances between each fixture.

    • Be sure you test your faucet for clearances not just between each fixture, but also between the faucet and the wall behind the faucet (if there is one). You need to be sure the handle will function properly.

    • Make sure that the cabinets are totally level (not out by more than 1/8") before the counter installers come in.

    • Check how close they should come to a stove and make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter.

    • Make sure they have the sink/faucet templates to work from.

    • Make sure have your garbage disposal air switch on hand or know the diameter

  • If you are not putting in a backsplash, tell them

  • Double check the template. Make sure that the measurements are reasonable. Measure the opening for the range.

  • Seam Placement: Yet another kettle of fish (or can of worms, depending on how you look at it, I guess!) Seam placement is ultimately at the discretion of the fabricator. I know it is not a really popular point of view, but that is just the way it is. There really is more to deciding where the seam would go than just the size of the slab or where the seam would look best in the kitchen.

    Most stone installations will have seams. They are unavoidable in medium or large sized kitchens. One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum. It seems that a good book could be written about seams, their quality, and their placementand still you will have some information that will be omitted! For something as seemingly simple as joining two pieces of stone, seams have evolved into their own universe of complexity far beyond what anybody should have fair cause to expect!

  • Factors determining seam placement:

    • The slab: size, color, veining, structure (fissures, strength of the material an other characteristics of the stone)

    • Transport to the job site: Will the fabricated pieces fit on whatever vehicle and A-frames he has available

    • Access to the job site: Is the house on stilts? (common in coastal areas) How will the installers get the pieces to where they need to go? Will the tops fit in the service elevator if the apartment is on the 10th floor? Do the installers need to turn tight corners to get to the kitchen? There could be 101 factors that will influence seam placement here alone.

    • Placement and size of undermount (or other) cut-outs. Some fabricators like to put seams in undermount sinks, some do not. We, for instance will do it if absolutely necessary, and have done so with great success, but will not do so as general practice. We do like to put seams in the middle of drop-in appliances and cut-outs and this is a great choice for appearances and ease of installation.

    • Location of the cabinets: Do the pieces need to go in between tall cabinets with finished sides? Do the pieces need to slide in under appliance garages or other cabinetry? How far do the upper cabinets hang over? Is there enough clearance between the vent hood and other cabinets? Again the possibilities are endless and would depend on each individual kitchen lay-out and - ultimately -

    • Install-ability of the fabricated pieces: Will that odd angle hold up to being moved and turned around to get on the peninsula if there is no seam in it? Will the extra large sink cut-out stay intact if we hold the piece flat and at a 45 degree angle to slide it in between those two tall towers? Again, 1,001 combinations of cabinetry and material choices will come into play on this question.

    You can ask your fabricator to put a seam at a certain location and most likely he will oblige, but if he disagrees with you, it is not (always) out of spite or laziness. Check on your fabricator's seams by going to actual kitchens he has installed. Do not trust what you see in a showroom as sole testament to your fabricator's ability to do seams.

    With modern glues and seaming methods, a seam could successfully be put anywhere in an installation without compromising the strength or integrity of the stone. If a seam is done well, there is - in theory - no "wrong" location for it. A reputable fabricator will also try to keep the number of seams in any installation to a minimum. It is not acceptable, for instance to have a seam in each corner, or at each point where the counter changes direction, like on an angled peninsula.

    Long or unusually large pieces are often done if they can fit in the constraints of a slab. Slabs as a rule of thumb will average at about 110"x65". There are bigger slabs and quite often smaller ones too. Check with the fabricator or the slab yard. They will be more than happy to tell you the different sizes of slabs they have available. Note, though, that the larger the slabs, the smaller the selection of possible colors. Slab sizes would depend in part on the capabilities of the quarry, integrity of the material or the capabilities of the machinery at the finishing plant. We have had slabs as wide as 75" and as long as 130" before, but those are monsters and not always readily available.

  • Generally, it is not a good idea to seam over a DW because there's no support for the granite, and anything heavy placed at or near the seam would stress the stone, possibly breaking it.

  • Rodding is another issue where a tremendous amount of mis-information and scary stories exist: The main purpose for rodding stone would be to add integrity to the material around cut-outs. This is primarily for transport and installation and serves no real purpose once the stone is secured and fully supported on the cabinets. It would also depend on the material. A fabricator would be more likely to rod Ubatuba than he would Black Galaxy, for instance. The flaky and delicate materials prone to fissures would be prime candidates for rodding. Rodding is basically when a fabricator cuts slots in the back of the stone and embeds steel or fiberglass rods with epoxy in the slots in the stone. You will not see this from the top or front of the installation. This is an "insurance policy" created by the fabricator to make sure that the stone tops make it to your cabinets all in one piece

  • Edges: The more rounded an edge is, the more stable it would be. Sharp, flat edges are prone to chipping under the right (or rather wrong) circumstances. Demi or full bullnose edges would almost entirely eliminate this issue. A properly milled and polished edge will be stable and durable regardless of the profile, though. My guess at why ogee and stacked edges are not more prevalent would be purely because of cost considerations. Edge pricing is determined by the amount of work needed to create it. The more intricate edge profiles also require an exponentially larger skill set and more time to perfect. The ogee edge is a very elegant edge and can be used to great effect, but could easily look overdone if it is used everywhere. We often advise our clients to combine edges for greater impact - i.e., eased edge on all work surfaces, and ogee on the island to emphasize the cabinetry or unusual shape.
    Edge profiles are largely dependent on what you like and can afford. There is no real pro or con for regular or laminated edges. They all have their place in the design world. Check with your fabricator what their capabilities and pricing are. Look at actual kitchens and ask for references.


Installation:

  • Seams:
    One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum [StoneGirl]

    • A generic good quality seam should have the following characteristics:
      • It should be flat. According to the Marble Institute of America (MIA) a minimal amount of lippage is acceptable (1/32"), but conscientious fabricators all strive for a perfectly flat and smooth joint.

      • It should be narrow - as in smaller than 1/16". (I think the MIA stipulates no larger than 1/8", but that is pushing it - and only if the fabricator bevels the edges of the seam, almost similar to the edge of a stone tile. This is, thank goodness, not a standard practice any more!)

      • The color on either side of the seam should match as closely as possible. On regularly patterned stones like Ubatuba for example - there should be no variation. On stones with variation in colors or veins, the match should be made as close as was humanly possible.

      • Vein direction should flow. The MIA suggests a single direction of vein flow, but it is acceptable IF DISCUSSED WITH THE CLIENT to change vein direction on a seam if no other option is available. This would happen in book matched slabs - you will have a "butterfly" seam in this case. In other cases, the fabricator could put a miter seam in a corner and change vein direction 90 degrees. This is usually done with extremely linear veining like Bamboo Green, for example, but this is something that should be discussed with the fabricator and agreed upon by the client.

      • The seam on the finished edge of the stone should NOT dip in and create a divot in the edge. When you run your fingers over the edge, you should not be able to feel the location of the seam at all.

      • The thickness of the slabs on either side of the seam should be equal (or feathered out so that there is no discernible difference)

      • The glue in the seam should be of a color that matches the stone as closely as possible. Glue joints that are too light or too dark will show up something terrible. The idea behind tinting the glue is to try to make the seam "disappear" or something relatively close to it

  • Checklist:
    • Check the seams for evenness and smoothness.

      • Make sure that the seams are neat and clean.

      • Make sure that the seams are not obvious.

      • Make sure the seams are butted tight

      • Make sure that there are no scratches, pits, or cracks

    • If sealing is necessary (not all granites need to be sealed):

      • Make sure that the granite has been sealed

      • If more than one application of sealer was applied, ask how long they waited between applications

      • Ask which sealer has been used on the granite.

    • Make sure the sink reveal is consistent all the away around

    • Check the gap of the granite at the wall junctions.

    • Check for inconsistent overhangs from the counter edges

    • Check for chips. These can be filled.

    • Make sure the top drawers open & close

    • Make sure that you can open & close your dishwasher

    • Make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter

    • Make sure that you have the appropriate clearances for your appliances

    • Check the edge all around, a good edge should have the following characteristics:
      • Shine: The edge polish should match the top polish in depth and clarity. The edge should not be milky, dull, or waxy.

      • The edge should not have "waves". Eyeball along the edge. A good edge should have a mirror like reflection and be fairly flat. Waves that you can see or feel are not a good thing.

      • The aris (very top of the edge) should be crisp and straight, even on a bullnose edge. Once again you can see this by eyeballing along the very top end of the edge profile. A wavy, dippy aris is poor craftsmanship.

      • A good edge will have a consistent profile. It will not be larger in some spots or smaller in others.

      • A good edge should also have NO tooling lines. These will be fine lighter/white lines running along the edge. This is a mark of a poor edge polish, of a CNC machine that is not set correctly, and a lack of hand finishing. This is common when a company has only mechanical fabrication (i.e., CNC machines or line polishers) and no skilled hand fabricators to finish the work properly.

    • Run your hands around the entire laminated edge of yor counters to make sure they are smooth

    • Check surrounding walls & cabinets for damage

Miscellaneous Information:

  • More than all the above and below, though, is to be present for both the templating as well as having the templates placed on your slabs at the fabricator's
    If you canot be there, then have a lengthy conversation about seam placement, ways to match the movement, and ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seam

  • Find a fabricator who is a member of the SFA

  • When they polish your stone for you don't let them wax it. It will look terrible in 2 months when the wax wears off.

  • Don't use the Magic Eraser on granite--especially AB

  • Any slab with more fill (resin) than stone is certainly a no-no!!

  • When you do check for scratches, have overhead lighting shining down so scratches are easier to see

  • Don't let them do cutouts in place (granite dust becomes a major issue)

  • Granite dust can be a problem...some have heard of SS appliances & hoods damaged by the dust, others have heard of drawer glides being ruined by the dust

  • If you have wood floors--especially if you're in the process of staining or finishing them--make sure that they don't spill or drip granite sealer on the wood floors. Apparently the sealer interferes with the stain or finish process.

  • Suggested Prep for Installation:
    • Remove any drawers and pullouts beneath any sections that will be cut or drilled onsite, e.g., sink cutouts and/or faucet, soap dispenser, air gap, instant hot etc. holes, cooktop cutouts.

    • Then just cover the glides themselves with a few layers of blue painter's tape (or some combo of plastic wrap and tape)

    • If you make sure to cover the top of the glides and attach some of the tape to the cab wall as well (to form sort of a seal)and cover the rest of the glides completely with tape, you should be fine.

    • Usually the fabricators will have someone holding a vacuum hose right at the spot where they are drilling or cutting, so very little granite dust should be landing on the glides. What little dust escapes the vacuum will be blocked by the layer(s) of tape.

    • When done w/installation, remove the tape and use a DustBuster (or similar) on all the cabinets and glides

  • Countertop Support:

    • If your granite is 2 cm thick, then there can be no more then 6" of of unsupported span with a 5/8" subtop

    • If your granite is 3 cm thick, then there can be no more then 10" of unsupported span - no subtop required

    • If you need support, the to determine your corbel dimensions:

    • Thickness of Stone - Dimension of Unsupported Span = Corbel Dimensino

    • i.e., an 18" total overhang in 2 cm would require a 12" corbe; the same overhang in 3 cm would require an 8" corbel

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clipped on: 07.08.2008 at 10:17 pm    last updated on: 09.24.2008 at 10:50 pm

Stainless Cleaner...All

posted by: mollie on 09.20.2008 at 12:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

I just got my Wolf range and it came with a small bottle of stainless cleaner and polish. Wow! This stuff is great! It takes off all spots and shines it up with little rubbing. I've not had stainless appliances long, do all stainless cleaners work this well? What stainless cleaner do you like? Stainless looks great but is a pain in the *&% to keep looking good especially the water/ice dispenser on the stainless fridge. The water will drip down the front because someone always overflows and the bottom of the tray doesn't have a drain just a heat unit that is supposed to evaporate the overflow. I always get drips down the dispenser side of fridge but hubby just had to have the dispenser. I have all stainless appliances now and wish I had a gallon of that Wolf cleaner, it probably costs a mint.

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clipped on: 09.20.2008 at 11:18 pm    last updated on: 09.20.2008 at 11:18 pm

RE: Question for Miele induction owners (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: bearman1 on 09.06.2008 at 05:53 pm in Appliances Forum

I just installed mine today! Your concerns are partly correct. I do not have the exact dimensions but We have a standard 36 inch cabinet and the installer had to cut a notch on the sides of the cabinet wall for clearance not a big deal at all. The actual cooking surface sits on the granite and does not use any adhesive at all. Then the fan part of the unit starts about 3/4 of an inch in on both sides and is a bout 3 or 4 inches deep.

We have a rollout draw at the bottom of the cabinet for pots and pans. Miele suggests leaving space between the bottom of the unit and a shelf or drawer to allow for proper airflow.

The electrical connection should not be an issue as the box should be screwed into a stud and the cable secured to the back wall of your cabinet.

Fingerprints so far do not seem to be an issue. Just wipe the top off and they are gone. We had considered Viking but the dials looked like a pain to keep clean.

The unit looks really nice and if it is as good as the other Miele appliance we recently got it will be terrific.

Good luck with the research I am off to cook dinner:).

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clipped on: 09.07.2008 at 07:58 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2008 at 07:58 pm

RE: microfiber 101 (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: sheilaaus122 on 09.01.2008 at 07:24 am in Kitchens Forum

Thanks for the links and the info. On the packaging it did say they could be machine washed and dried and not to wash or dry with other fabrics.
So I guess I did right by not trying too hard to clean the cloths. Some of them have stains ( I got a little zealous with one or two and cleaned something in the garage,).
I do find they are wonderful on the granite. I have a dark speckled granite (blue sapphire) and it doesnt show any dirt. However when you run your hands over it, you can feel crumbs and the like because "those who are preparing food" don't see the mess, don't clean the mess..... sound familiar anyone? Well the microfiber works great. I find it also works great on the very few water spots I get on the stainless sink and stainless finish faucet.
I did look on the cleaning forum, but honestly the search function is not functioning too swiftly lately. I know I had read lots about them, but was not too productive when I tried searching.

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clipped on: 09.01.2008 at 09:46 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2008 at 09:46 pm

RE: microfiber 101 (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: ma-bookreader on 09.01.2008 at 12:07 am in Kitchens Forum

They can be washed in the washing machine, but do not wash them with other clothing. Other clothing will release fibers and you don't want them getting trapped in the microfiber cloth. There is a long discussion on this in the GW Cleaning forum.

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clipped on: 09.01.2008 at 09:40 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2008 at 09:40 pm

RE: microfiber 101- more links (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: lynn2006 on 09.01.2008 at 12:06 am in Kitchens Forum

Another link

Here is a link that might be useful: Link to above answer with link above for another answer

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clipped on: 09.01.2008 at 09:39 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2008 at 09:39 pm

RE: For the vertically-challenged: step stool and oven door size (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: cat_mom on 09.01.2008 at 04:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm 5'3" as well and I love my W-S 2-step step stool (they also make a taller, 3-step version). It's slim, lightweight, extremely easy to open and close, and it looks cool, too! The only downside is that it's too tall to store in a "normal" height cabinet, so my DH had to pop the rubber feet off, cut down the legs, and then pop the feet back in/on. I can reach the top shelf of all my cabs while standing on it (ok, maybe not all the way in the back of my over-the-fridge cab!).

I do have a slightly taller step stool stored in another room just feet away from the kitchen if I really needed it. I do need to stand on a ladder or counters to clean the range hood chimney where it meets the vaulted ceiling, and I need the ladder to reach the tops of the upper cabs themselves (for cleaning or placing decorative items up top).

The link for the step stool is below. FYI, they've gone up a bit in price since I purchased mine (Jan '07?).

Here is a link that might be useful: Ultraslim step stool

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clipped on: 09.01.2008 at 09:28 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2008 at 09:28 pm

Cleaning Stainless Steel Refrigerator

posted by: marypearl on 08.28.2008 at 06:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

Does anyone know of a cleaner for stainless steel that actually works? I've bought a couple of different brands and the nice soft towels that were recommended but cannot get the streaks out of the refrigerator. I would appreciate any tips you all can give me. Thanks.

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clipped on: 08.30.2008 at 10:21 pm    last updated on: 08.30.2008 at 10:21 pm

RE: Help me build my DREAM White Kitchen (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: rmkitchen on 08.30.2008 at 12:19 am in Kitchens Forum

My gosh -- thank you so much for all your nice words! How lovely to read. I just wanted to let you know ours are not inset cabinets -- they're full overlay. After the first quote I received for inset I just dropped it -- wasn't worth a heart attack! Plus, I needed every inch I could squeeze out for storage, and inset just ate up too much precious space ... although I love its look!

Your inspiration kitchen is gorgeous, and I feel absolutely confident you are going to find a countertop material which is right for you. Congratulations on moving onto framing! You are so lucky to get to build a house. I'm envious!

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clipped on: 08.30.2008 at 09:17 am    last updated on: 08.30.2008 at 09:17 am

1930 Spanish kitchen...98% complete! Photos.

posted by: yesdear on 08.23.2008 at 04:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi GWers, DW and I have marveled at the beautiful work others have shown here. We were very grateful for the nice comments on our preview photo posted a couple of weeks ago.

And now...the range went in yesterday with the help of 5 burly guys and suddenly we are 98% done. Only some touch-up painting and installation of the DW panel, spice cab door and glass for the glass-front cabinet left to go.

When we are at 100% I'll post a gallery including "before" (yuk) and in-progress. I'll also include the new laundry area, at the extreme far end of these photos. For now, see below for shots of the kitchen. We made a few concessions to modernity, e.g., sacrificing the butler's pantry for 5 more feet of galley length and opening up the arch in the foreground--it used to be a narrow mahogany swinging door. Yet we wanted a kitchen worthy of our grand old Spanish Colonial Revival home. We think she is happy! Details at the very bottom.

P1020654

P1020657

P1020656

P1020663

P1020659

P1020673

Range - CornuFe in basic black.

Frig - Liebherr 60" built-in.

DW - Miele Optima with panel front. Panel is still at the paint shop.

Cabinets - locally made face-frame of birch with inset panel & bead detail on doors, melamine interiors, Blumotion hinges and all the internal bells & whistles.

Countertops - Brazilian Black soapstone, not oiled yet, with radiused corners and eased edge. Runnels by the sink. Mahogany top on the beadboard hutch.

Sinks - Rohl Shaws original 30" apron and 15" undermount prep with ISE Evolution disposers.

Faucets - Kohler Vinnata (K-690, K-691)in brushed nickel.

Cab hardware - "Duluth" 6" pulls and 1.25" knobs in brushed nickel from Restoration Hardware.

Appliance pulls - Top Knobs 12" pulls in BN. The DW will have one mounted horizontally--also serves as towel rack!

Floors - Original 1930 tongue-in-groove fir, sanded, repaired and refinished after removing 2 layers of linoleum.

Windows - Custom arched 3-lite pull casement, based on a ~1930 design I saw in the neighborhood.

Lighting - Schoolhouse Electric, all fluorescent GU24 except the pendants (too small for GU24 bulbs). Different ceiling mounts in kitchen, pantry and laundry.

Hood - Best PIK 45 with custom arched drywall enclosure and remote switch.

Tile Mural - our little secret! (JK, it's from Tierra y Fuego in San Diego.)

Backsplash - custom 2.5 x 5" Chardonnay color handmade subway by Ken Mason.

Paint - all BM, Country Lane green accent, Ivory White wall base color, Lemon Chiffon on cabs and trim.

Our CKD is Dana Jones, "The Kitchen Consultant," in Long Beach, CA. Our vision + Dana's creativity and attention to detail (this is Version 7 of the plan!) + our GC Bob Kaplan's superb and flexible execution = a nice result. We are well over time but pretty darn close to budget. We learned a LOT here. Hope you like it!

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clipped on: 08.23.2008 at 07:42 pm    last updated on: 08.23.2008 at 07:43 pm

RE: KitchenAid Refrigerator - plastic breaking (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: dadoes on 08.21.2008 at 08:33 pm in Appliances Forum

partstap.com is usually less than repairclinic.com. Also check searspartsdirect.com and partselect.com

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clipped on: 08.22.2008 at 09:30 am    last updated on: 08.22.2008 at 09:30 am

RE: KitchenAid Refrigerator - plastic breaking (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: weissman on 08.21.2008 at 04:54 pm in Appliances Forum

No problem with broken bins but I did have a plastic piece on my ice maker break. I'm not sure why you expect KA to replace things that are out of warranty. Granted, they should have been more courteous and you have the right to have your call escalated to a supervisor. Try repairclinic.com - you might be able to get your bin cheaper there.

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clipped on: 08.22.2008 at 09:22 am    last updated on: 08.22.2008 at 09:29 am

RE: tile installation (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: bill_vincent on 08.08.2008 at 07:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

I would go with no less than 3/16 in the tumbled marble. There's way too much sizing in the stone. And no, the joints don't have to be the same in the ceramic as in the stone.

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clipped on: 08.08.2008 at 10:38 pm    last updated on: 08.08.2008 at 10:38 pm

RE: tile installation (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: bill_vincent on 08.08.2008 at 06:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

What you want is the COURSING, not the tile itself. That is, you want the size of one tile and one grout joint. Now, for the sake of argument, lets say that the tile is 3 13/16", and then with a 3/16" grout joint, you have your 4" coursing. Then, yes-- you divide the space you have by that number, in this case, leaving 2- 2 1/2". Now, this is half to just a little more than half a tile, which would be fine at the top of the splash, meaning you could start with a full tile at the countertop, and just cut in the bottom of the cabinets. If you want to balance them, though, take off 3/4", so you have a 3 1/4" piece on the bottom, and then you'd have between 2 3/4" to 3 1/4" pieces along the top.

As for where the tumbled marble will be, I would use something to frame it out, like a pencil liner, or rope trim, or chair rail-- something you can use where it sticks out more than EITHER surface, and does so as an accent, and will also hide the difference in thickness between the marble and the ceramic.

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clipped on: 08.08.2008 at 10:38 pm    last updated on: 08.08.2008 at 10:38 pm

RE: tile installation (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: yolande_1951 on 08.08.2008 at 11:47 am in Kitchens Forum

Thanks, Bill.

Just to think out loud: You measure the height of the space, eg 18 or 18 1/2 inches, and divide that by the width of the tile, in this case 4 inches - they are 4 x 8 subway tile. If it is uneven, put a 1/2 tile on the bottom? Is this the best wayh to lay them out?

Also, we are doing white subway tile and then over the cooktop we will have tumbled marble, painted to match the subway tile, and then painted with a large bowl of red parrot tulips in a blue and white vase. The tumbled marble is a little thicker than the subway tile, does this matter?
If so, what do we do?

Thanks,
Judy

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clipped on: 08.08.2008 at 10:36 pm    last updated on: 08.08.2008 at 10:36 pm

RE: tile installation (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: tsdiver on 08.08.2008 at 12:56 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi Judy...

Sadly, my backsplash installation job was the reason for the info about the 1/2 tile. This is directly from the thread I started, but as you can see, Bill actually posted it in another thread.

Bill Vincent said:
"tsdiver-- I just answered another thread with reference to your problem, and I want to make sure you see it:

QUESTION This popped into my head while reading about tsdiver's backsplash. The bottom row of the bs is slim tiles rather than full size tiles. A few posters have indicated that this would be unacceptable.

My question is how could this have been prevented without choosing a differently sized tile or grout line? I'm interested b/c I'm going to attempt a DIY bs next weekend. I was thinking that some of the tiles would have to be cut, and that appears to be what happened to tsdiver's bs: the bottom tiles had to be cut to fit.

Is the alternative to cut a little from the tiles on both the top and bottom edges of the bs (and right/left edges, if applicable), thus ensuring that the cut tiles are not excessively small compared to the full size tiles?

Melanie

ANSWER * Posted by bill_vincent (billvincent@hotmail.com) on
Sun, Jun 8, 08 at 18:22

There are a couple of things that could've been done. First, they could've started off with a half tile on the bottom. That way they wouldn't use any more tiles (being that they could get two out of each piece on the bottom) and then cut in what falls at the top. The other (lazy) thing would've been to start with a full tile at the counter and put the sliver up under the upper cabinets where it wouldn't be quite so visible.

One way or the other, as a pro, he should've known exactly what his cuts were going to be all the way around before the first piece of tile was installed, and if the cuts were unacceptable, adjusted his layout accordingly. As a professional installation, that was completely unacceptable, and he wouldn't see a dime from me until he rectified the problems, no matter WHAT that takes. "

Here is a link that might be useful: Dissappointed with backsplash thread

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clipped on: 08.08.2008 at 01:00 am    last updated on: 08.08.2008 at 10:36 pm

Update Pics of cream traditional kitchen

posted by: jen4268 on 07.24.2008 at 09:10 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi! Things are moving along and I thought I would post some progress pics- about 90% done, but no backsplash yet, waiting on my appliance pulls for the refrigerator (using temp ones that came with for now). I will post more when finished!

Cabinets- custom built, inset. Color- SW8180, almond white
Counters- Antiqued Nordic Black

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clipped on: 07.24.2008 at 10:43 pm    last updated on: 07.24.2008 at 10:43 pm

RE: Induction Cooktop: Why GE Profile over Kenmore Elite? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: try_hard on 07.16.2008 at 07:36 pm in Appliances Forum

I'll say one more thing -- the best way I have found to keep my induction cooktop clean and spotless is a microfiber cloth. Just rub the cooktop with it and the marks/spills/dried spots will come off. If you need a little more than elbow grease, use a gentle cleaning spray (I use Shaklee Basic G.)

try_hard

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clipped on: 07.16.2008 at 09:05 pm    last updated on: 07.16.2008 at 09:05 pm

Faucet Angst!! Need input - HELP! (pix below)

posted by: raynag on 12.07.2007 at 06:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

Don't ask how crazed I am about making a choice here.I used to think people were being silly agonizing over a FAUCET -- but now I understand! It took me less time to pick my cabinets and appliances than the damn faucet.

If you have any of these, please let me know how you like them. One dealer told me the Hansgrohe is terrific, another told me the Grohe quality and service can't be beat - but someone else who also sells the Grohe says the rubber thingie you turn on the spray with goes bad and has to be replaced periodically. A different dealer who carries all 3 brands, loves KWC. ARGH.

I love the look of the KWC faucets below (although the differences are minor, I think -- so which one?). The Grohe and Hansgrohe come highly recommended, too, but I don't like their looks as well. Sink will be the Elkay 2816 with the drain/garbage disposal in the middle. Natural cherry slab front contemporary cabs, hardwood floor, soapstone counters, stainless appliances. All 3 brands come in actual stainless, not brushed nickel. My current faucet (a plain old faucet) is 9.5" from stem to aerator. I don't have the measurements of these in front of me.

I'd like to hear from anybody who has any of the models below - esp the KWC.Pros? Cons? Spray handle comfort? They are all roughly in the same price range. Thanks, guys.

KWC Edge
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
KWC Konos
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
KWC Suprimo
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
KWC Ono
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Hansgrohe Talis
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
LadyLuxe Plus
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

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clipped on: 07.09.2008 at 06:43 pm    last updated on: 07.09.2008 at 06:43 pm

RE: Looking for pics of kitchens w/under cabinet lighting (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: paul_ma on 05.28.2008 at 06:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

My lighting is Xenon - Seagull Linear. Its just a strip of wire, into which tiny bulb holders are pressed. This was not a retrofit - the wiring was pulled through the wall before the cabinets went up. There is literally no fixture at all - just a black wire coming out of a hole in the wall that is hidden by the cabinets.

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clipped on: 07.08.2008 at 11:25 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2008 at 11:25 pm

Post Script (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: bill_vincent on 04.15.2008 at 09:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

And maybe one more:

Here is a link that might be useful: Marble Tables

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clipped on: 07.08.2008 at 10:19 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2008 at 10:19 pm

RE: Stone Information and Advice (& Checklists) (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: bill_vincent on 04.15.2008 at 09:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

What about a small section about granite names?

Instead of doing the work to put that all together, how about posting a link to where it's already done, instead?

Here is a link that might be useful: Granite Tables

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clipped on: 07.08.2008 at 10:18 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2008 at 10:18 pm

RE: 99% finished. Off White kitchen. So HAPPY!! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mamadadapaige on 05.29.2008 at 02:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

darn. i screwed up my image posting again. i will try again.
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clipped on: 06.22.2008 at 11:13 pm    last updated on: 06.22.2008 at 11:14 pm

RE: 99% finished. Off White kitchen. So HAPPY!! (Follow-Up #39)

posted by: mamadadapaige on 05.29.2008 at 09:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thank you all so much!! It is so nice to receive all the positive feedback... it has been such a long haul, especially the last 6 weeks without a kitchen and two little kids.

here are the details:

Cabinets are by Crownpoint out of New Hampshire. The color is antique white. I painted my baseboards and trim the same color and the corresponding color which is a good match is Benjamin Moore Lancaster Whitewash. The latches are very easy... you do have to actually turn them but it is effortless. I really like the look. It was a pricey upgrade so I only put them on the upper cabinets.

The countertops are a granite called Ocean Green from Gerrity Stone in Woburn, Mass. I had them honed. This was a soapstone alternative as the soapstone slabs I saw didn't appeal to me and I chickened out on the patina issue and ultimately didn't think I could handle dings / scratches etc.

The backsplash is Walker Zanger Gramercy Park 2" x 6" field tiles in Bone China. They have a crackle finish.

The hood is from Rangecraft out of New Jersey. The style I went for is called Taconic.

The floors are random width quartersawn White Oak with a stain.

The butcherblock countertop is from Grothouse Lumber out of Pennsylvania (which I found from other GW'ers... THANKS a million... I love this probably more than anything else!!). It is end grain brazilian cherry. I opted for the food friendly finish so I will have to maintain it with mineral oil. I plan to chop right on it... haven't done that yet, will probably be a little while before I have the gumption to do so.

Countertop width on either side of the range is 24".

One tip I want to pass on: if you notice the cabinets to the left of my sink because I have three drawers over a pair of two drawers they had to build it as one unit (so less of those seams where one box meets the next). I had originally planned to have the drawers on top the same size as the drawers below but that would have meant two box units instead of one. Just wanted to pass this along. I think if you can find ways to get them to build larger units so you have fewer seams this is good.

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Sammydog2008... you are so kind. So sorry it took me so long to post back again. It has been a big mess at the house and the appliances just got put in yesterday. I am so glad you are going with the ocean green. You will love it. It has grays in it, but also off white so you could go either way. Farrow and Ball certainly is nice stuff. Are you near a design center? If so perhaps you could bring in a sample of the granite and have them help you pick the paint color? The design center in Boston has a small F&B showroom.


I will definitely post pictures of the other directions tomorrow. Thanks so much for all the compliments. Again, it just feels so good after the long renovation

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clipped on: 06.22.2008 at 11:12 pm    last updated on: 06.22.2008 at 11:13 pm

Can't Believe It's My Turn to Share a Finished Kitchen!

posted by: lleet on 06.16.2008 at 09:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

First of all, THANK YOU to everyone who posted questions and pictures and who answers questions and shared their stories. As a "mostly lurker" I benefited greatly from your conversations. I will certainly try to help others now that Ive been through it, made the mistakes, and learned the lessons.

What started out as a minor upgrade to our 1920 Tudor house turned into a major renovation, and of course the kitchen was the best/worst part of it. Were 95% there the cabinets still need so adjusting and were missing the fridge (its on a truck somewhere) but were just thrilled to be back in our house. So here it is

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(Empty spot is where the fridge will go once it arrives. The panty is to the right if it, although its not in the picture.)

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Thanks again for everything (especially to the marble fans who were so willing to share the good and the bad.)

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clipped on: 06.22.2008 at 10:58 pm    last updated on: 06.22.2008 at 10:58 pm

RE: Can't Believe It's My Turn to Share a Finished Kitchen! (Follow-Up #36)

posted by: lleet on 06.17.2008 at 11:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

You guys are so kind! Its so much fun to check in and hear your comments, after an irritating day at work!

Ill take more pictures in the light tomorrow to show the lighting, overall kitchen, and island detail.

To answer some of the specific questions:

yolande_1951: the cabinets are painted BM Swiss Coffee OC-45. The hardware is from Home Depot Expo, but I think its pretty common (i.e. not too expensive) Hickory Hardware. The faucet was my save" I loved the Rohl, but it was so expensive so I randomly found this one its totally a no name brand, so I cant think of it, but Ill look it up.

raenjapan: I purchased the pulls from Home Depot Expo, but I they can be found online as well: http://www.homedecorhardware.com/hickory-p3010-14.html (lots of other places too)

ravmd: The island is 47 inches wide (inclusive of the marble 1.5" overhang) by 11 feet 3 inches (the butcher bock part is 2ft, 1inch although I love it now, the reason we went with the wood edge is because the slab was not long enough for the island). The bar is 76" long, 22 inches wide, with a bump out sink of 24 inches. (Although I would change it if I could since the wine fridge doesnt really fit under a 22 inch counter. It sticks out, but theres really nothing I can do about it now.)
- I was worried about the space on both sides of the island, but they are fine.

raehelen I had an inspiration picture which really helped me make decisions. A good friend of mine is an interior designer and I give her total credit for the layout.

malhgold Im not totally sure what you are asking, but I will take close up picture for you. The island is one piece. The marble slab and wood are two different pieces.

janefan Originally, I wanted a flat polished edge on the island, just like the perimeter cabinets. But, the marble we used for the island was 2cm instead of 3cm, like the perimeter, so I purposely made it more detailed so it wouldnt look like it was trying to match and so you would not see the seem. Its and ogee edge attached to a flat edge. I was very unsure about it at the time, but no one would ever be able to tell. In general, I wish I would not have worried as much as I did about the little things. But even if someone would have told me that upfront, I doubt I would have listened.

roey736 The back splash is from Daltile: Its Ahnzu 3x6 Artic Ice, Crackle AT112

Trudy I had not heard of it either and really couldnt find much about it online. It just happened to be at the stone place our contractor recommended.

neesie Ill try it the flash I never can tell which is the better way to photograph! Im kind of nervous to unpack In general Im not that put together and just think I will mess up the kitchen! Although, it is a room to be enjoyed.

redroze Yes, it is.

iris16 I dont have bar stools yet, but eventually. There is a breakfast nook on the other side of the bar area Ill upload a picture of it tomorrow.

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clipped on: 06.22.2008 at 10:58 pm    last updated on: 06.22.2008 at 10:58 pm

RE: Need Ideas for Best Use of 15 Inch Base Cabinet Space (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: birkie_2006 on 06.04.2008 at 09:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

My favorite thing in my kitchen is the trash pull-out. A 15" pull out could hold a garbage and recycling container.

Even at 12", my pullout is very valuable

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clipped on: 06.11.2008 at 03:54 pm    last updated on: 06.11.2008 at 03:54 pm

98.5% Finished Kitchen ! Lots of Pictures

posted by: tinker_2006 on 06.05.2008 at 04:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

(Note: I am not the best photographer!!)

We moved into our new house 5 days ago. I know some of you will recall my posts of despair... first about the sick, sick feeling in the pit of my stomach. I felt I made a big mistake with the Cherry cabinets instead of the cream color I have always loved. I felt I would feel like I was living in a cave and I even had thoughts of moving in and having them painted or refaced immediately! But I am absolutely loving the Cherry! It's rich and elegant, and I think it is perfect!

Then the granite on the island.. the edge was made incorrectly, and I thought it was UGLY and way too chunky, but now that it is on, and the island is near completion, I am really starting to like it A REAL, REAL LOT! The granite situation gave me so much stress at the end of our build, with the fabricator refusing to do anything. They have however, called 2 days ago, and changed their minds, and did agree to replace it if I decided I didn't like it. (probably heard I had intended on reporting then to the BBB).

They still have to put a few cabinet pulls on, and finish up the sides of the island, but it is really just about done.

I am really loving the kitchen, and only one issue is where they put the kitchen sink (which is our fault, we did approve) and the sink shape - I don't care for it, and failed to look it up, and approved the work-order with it. It's 2' too far over, but I think we will just live with it for a while and see how it functions for us. We are not serious chef's in the kitchen by any means!

That's it - I couldn't have done this or made it through this without all of your support and guidance!!

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Kitchen table - really almost matches, but I didn't do that on purpose! We have a new one ordered 9 weeks ago, that is on it's way to us. Hope it works!

Cabinets: Made by cabinet shop (they make the boxes, and order doors, hood and trim from Conestoga Wood).
Granite: Golden Oak/Madura Gold
Backslash: Dal-tile Sienna Gold travertine
Floors: Mahogany, by Anderson
Sink: Kindred Estate
Faucets: Kohler Fairfax
Pendant over island: Savoy House "Marion"
Refrigerator: Jenn Air French Door
Cook-top: 36" GE Induction
Ovens: GE Profile: Advantium & Convection
Paint: Kitchen is Porter "Rich Amber" Breakfast area is SW Blonde.

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clipped on: 06.05.2008 at 08:02 pm    last updated on: 06.05.2008 at 08:03 pm

RE: Ricklish, question on intregrated sub zero (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: rmkitchen on 04.22.2008 at 12:27 am in Kitchens Forum

zoey -- I know you asked specifically about the Sub Zero but because theyre "fully integrated" I thought it might be helpful (?) for you to see pictures of how we paneled our (separate) Thermador refrigerator and freezer columns. (They are each 30" wide.)

Our cabinetmaker hired the appliance-install guys to install the panels. Hes never worked before with the Thermador units and the appliance-install guys have. As it was, it took them (two strong young men) about three hours to do both of them this morning. But theyre perfect! (albeit not quite done: they still need their toekicks and furniture feet, but that won't be happening for a while, I suspect ...)

(My feelings wont be hurt if you say "this isnt helpful at all" but maybe to malhgold it might be.)

freezer before panel:

freezer after panel:

refrigerator before panel:

refrigerator (from left) after panel:

refrigerator (from right) with panel:

refrigerator open: (yes, that is a cat on the counter!)

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clipped on: 05.22.2008 at 11:58 am    last updated on: 05.22.2008 at 11:58 am

RE: Panels on DW, ovens, fridge, etc. (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: tinker_2006 on 05.22.2008 at 08:50 am in Kitchens Forum

Judy,

My new home is not yet complete, but here is a photo of our old home with the Jenn-Air French Door Refrigerator. I am using the same one this time as well, but installing custom handles on it.

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clipped on: 05.22.2008 at 11:51 am    last updated on: 05.22.2008 at 11:56 am