Clippings by xyz99

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

RE: Where DO you buy your hardwood floor? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: glennsfc on 01.27.2008 at 04:48 pm in Flooring Forum

Boxer said: "The big box stores will sell anything they get a deal on, so smaller dealers work with products that don't create complaints."

Very good advice and with the kernel of truth within.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.20.2008 at 03:59 pm    last updated on: 06.20.2008 at 03:59 pm

RE: Float or glue engineered wood floor? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: rivkadr on 01.09.2008 at 07:16 pm in Flooring Forum

Are you doing this work yourself?

One of that main reasons that people don't like floating floors (and would tell you to glue it) is that is that it often has a springy feel and a slightly hollow feel when you walk on it, versus the more solid feel when the wood is permanently affixed to the slab beneath it. Some people have a real problem with that sound/feeling, others do not. My floor is a floating install over a concrete slab -- I personally don't notice a hollow sound, but that's because we don't allow shoes on the floor, and if there's a very slight give to the floor...well, all to the good. It's better for your knees :) The main reason you would notice more of a hollow sound or springiness has to do with your sound barrier underneath, and/or how level your subfloor is -- if you get a really good sound barrier underneath, and your slab is nice and level, you should have minimal problems -- but your floor WILL still feel/sound different than if it had been glued. There's no getting around that.

The reason I asked if you're installing this yourself is, if you are, then you should probably go with the floating install. It's much easier to do than glueing the flooring, or so I've heard. We installed our floor ourselves (about 1000 square feet), and although it was time consuming, it wasn't particularly difficult, once we figured out what we were doing.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.20.2008 at 03:36 pm    last updated on: 06.20.2008 at 03:36 pm

RE: Float or glue engineered wood floor? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: toomuchwashing on 01.09.2008 at 04:22 pm in Flooring Forum

I have Junckers Hardwood Natural Beech on a concrete slab. It is install over a barrier plastic sheeting and the tongue-n-groove are glued and clamped together. I went with Junckers because most of the other companies and contractors told me I needed a sub floor installed because of moisture. I live a mile from the ocean. A friend of mine had another wood product glued down in his house; however he lives further inland with less humidity. In the past my flooring swelled during the rain. But I think that was an install problem (not enough gap between floor and wall). The difference I found is the noise. Where his is quiet; my wood flooring still creaks when walked on, and it has been down for a few years.
Also, I would consider whether you want the under heating that is becoming so popular now. The wood floors are warmer than tile but still get cold.
I do love the color of my hardwood and get many compliments on it.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.20.2008 at 03:34 pm    last updated on: 06.20.2008 at 03:34 pm

RE: What's the difference between rift and quartersawn? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ccoombs1 on 05.26.2008 at 11:45 am in Flooring Forum

Rift sawn is a very straight grain. Rift sawn oak hardly even looks like oak. It is very pretty! Quartersawn has tiger striped rays going across the board. You've seen tiger oak?? That's quartersawn. I love them both. The wood I am putting down is a mix of 60% rift and 40% quartersawn white oak. Both of these are VERY dimensionally stable and are not prone to cupping or shrinking like plain sawn wood.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.20.2008 at 01:43 pm    last updated on: 06.20.2008 at 01:43 pm

RE: Does season matter when installing hardwood floors? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: floorguy on 05.24.2008 at 07:25 pm in Flooring Forum

It is actually better to install during the hot humid summers, when your A/C may be pulling some of the humidity out. It is better to have the floor shrink during the winter and gap from the dryness of heating the home, then to install it tight during the winter when the flooring is shrunk to it's smallest dimensions, and then come summer the floor swells and cupps and buckles/tents/heaves.

Average moisture content is best. That way you may get minor cupping in the summers and minor gapping in the winter, if you like to keep windows open a lot, it is best to go by the average.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.20.2008 at 12:49 pm    last updated on: 06.20.2008 at 12:49 pm

RE: Does season matter when installing hardwood floors? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: glennsfc on 05.22.2008 at 06:36 pm in Flooring Forum

Wood is hygroscopic...it will take up moisture and give it up repeatedly. As a result of this characteristic, some gapping will happen and some cupping on occasion unless the indoor temperature and humidity levels remain constant...not many homes maintain these levels.

Do NOT acclimate your wood to the ambient temperature and humidity conditions of the outside air, especially if that is what you perceive as hot and humid...that will guarantee that you will have more gapping than is normal to expect. Get yourself a combination temperature and humidity instrument (about $25 at Radio Shack) and monitor temperature and humidity levels in the room where the wood will be installed. Professionals have moisture meters that read the level of both the wood and the subfloor that the wood is to be installed over and then they install when moisture readings are within 2% to 4% of each other. You don't have that instrument, so common sense will dictate. You want to acclimate the wood to the indoor environment that it will live in most of the time. If that is let's say 68 F and 50% humidity, then that is the conditions you what the wood to acclimate in. Turn on the HVAC system and adjust temperature and humidity levels to what you consider to be the 'typical' levels in your home. Acclimate for the time required...I acclimate wood for at least a week.

Since you are DIYing, pay attention to how you 'rack' the floor...avoid obvious 'step' patterns and keep end seams at least 8" from each other to avoid that visual insult.

Search the internet for some other professional opinions. Here is a link to NOFMA that can get you started.

Here is a link that might be useful: NOFMA

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.20.2008 at 12:48 pm    last updated on: 06.20.2008 at 12:48 pm

RE: Help - What's the Best Hardwood Flooring (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: boxers on 05.30.2008 at 09:31 pm in Flooring Forum

your happiness is going to be based on a happy medium of picking a wood with a lot of character (graining) so that when the scratches appear they won't be very obvious. Some of the handscraped looks have a lot of texture with lots of character. Picking a smooth finish in a clear grain such as maple is guaranteed to show every little nick and blemish. It is the finish thats important and aluminum oxide on prefinished is very hard and durable, but its also a combination as mentioned that will help. Don't make a buying decision based on hardness only.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.20.2008 at 12:37 pm    last updated on: 06.20.2008 at 12:37 pm

RE: Advice from a hardwood rep for those shopping (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: boxers on 01.31.2006 at 09:18 pm in Flooring Forum

The Janka test gives a relative hardness, but like my other comments too many people think the higher number is better. I was told by our technical people that the hardness is the same on engineered vs a solid. Engineered can have 3 5 or even 7 plys. I was told that this is due to variations of different species for stability, but the construction of the plys did not affect the 'hardness' of the wear layer. Part of what you are seeing is due to the clearness of maple. When you have a 'clean' smooth surface your eye will pick up small indentations in the wood. You can add another layer of finish by recoating but it won't make it 'harder'. A flooring guy can sometimes 'steam' a dent to raise it but I wouldn't attempt it as a diy project.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.20.2008 at 11:03 am    last updated on: 06.20.2008 at 11:03 am

RE: BIG gaps in new hardwood floor! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: sippimom on 05.31.2008 at 09:14 pm in Flooring Forum

"We assumed that were acclimating at their shop as we discussed this with the flooring company, and he went on to tell us that it is important."

Acclimating has to take place where it is going to be installed because temperature and humidity vary from one building or house to the next. By not acclimating the wood where it was to be installed with the HVAC system up and running, and this can be a long process - one or two weeks! - I would suspect they have voided the warranty. So it would be up to the installer (or place where you bought it if they are the same) to make it right.

If you don't have any luck with the retailer, I would contact Anderson, tell them what happened and let them deal with the retailer. That's a big company - I would think that they would want their retailers following instructions or they would pull their product from that store.

As the above poster said, if you or your builder have not paid the final bill to the retailer/installer then you may have some leverage for them to fix it.

Filling the gaps is not an acceptable "fix". They made a pretty huge error in the initial install.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.20.2008 at 10:52 am    last updated on: 06.20.2008 at 10:52 am

RE: Threshold/Saddle/Transition???? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: njg_viewpoint on 06.17.2008 at 10:43 pm in Flooring Forum

Last year we installed new hardwood floors in the living room and dining room. Then a contractor replaced the tile floor in the hall and first floor bath. There was already tile on the kitchen floor and it was staying. Home Depot (and I am sure other places) carry a product for the transition which is an aluminum strip that comes in various finishes - silver, gold, bronze, etc. specifically for the transisiton from tile to wood or other tile or types of flooring. It worked great for us.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.20.2008 at 10:34 am    last updated on: 06.20.2008 at 10:39 am

RE: Please advise - most reputable prefinished flooring company? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: sb345 on 06.17.2008 at 04:02 am in Flooring Forum

lisapico,

First, you should be able to get samples from any of the manufacturer's or have your dealer special order them for you.

If you are looking at domestic species (in no particular order)

Lauzon
Anderson (solids, the engineered is just so-so)
Mohawk's High end solids
Canterbury
Taylor Lumber
Mirage
Kahrs

If you are looking at exotics

BR111 (some are better than others, $$$ is the surest way to tell with them all are finished in Brazil)
Brandywine (formerly WFI)
Canterbury
Johnson
Pianeta Legno

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.20.2008 at 10:38 am    last updated on: 06.20.2008 at 10:38 am