Clippings by xtacie
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Make your own Never Empty Soap Dispenser (Follow-Up #12)
I went to HD the other week and went to the plumbing deparment and bought a 10' coil of the same size tubing that is used in my Brizo Floriano Soap Dispenser. I just pulled out the tube from the dispenser, cut a 3' piece off the coil, then shoved it in the soap dispenser and threaded it down to a huge jug of Dawn that I had popped off the top and slide the tubing inside so it stayed snug in the lid of Dawn. It works like champ. My son pumped about two minutes to get the soap to come up but when it did, it's perfect. That tubing from HD cost less than $2.50 with tax. I gave the other tubing to my sister and mother for their sinks.
<none>clipped on: 07.18.2014 at 01:30 am last updated on: 07.18.2014 at 01:30 am
RE: All I Can Say About Neolith is WOW!!! (Follow-Up #26)
For the sound dampening that snookums2 mentioned, maybe the Noble SIS would work. It is a Sound Isolation Sheet membrane and it is listed as 3/64th of an inch thick. The link below is a listing of the membranes of the Noble Company and scroll down to the bottom for their SIS and it has product description and installation links.
We used their CIS (crack isolation sheet) on the floor for my master bathroom as a crack protection and insulation under the heated floor mesh under tile for a concrete slab floor. It was thinner than the thinnest Ditre we first considered (and would have been a problem with the small floor tile inset we used) and I did not want any threshold problems. After it was installed, I walked in the room with just that installed, and it was SO much warmer and also, unexpectedly quieter, than the surrounding regular slab.
We also used the Noble TS membrane for the steam shower that was a water and vapour barrier and crack isolation for the slab onyx and limestone tiles we used for shower walls and it worked great for that. If someone is considering the Neolith for a shower, they might look into this or something similar.
Noble had several membranes for different situations of crack isolation, sound dampening, water and/or vapour barrier (and several had multiple qualities) so they might work well for this product in several different applications.
I have not looked up the Neolith installation specs so am unfamiliar with what they require for different uses.
Here is a link that might be useful: Noble membranes including sound isolation
<none>clipped on: 06.08.2014 at 03:42 am last updated on: 06.08.2014 at 03:43 am
RE: What to Install Under Heated Floor/Tile? (Follow-Up #9)
I wouldn't use cork on the slab under your floor heating.
First, you may not need anything at all. I used a NuHeat mat on an uninsulated slab (below grade, not on-grade) with Ditra on top and it heats perfectly well. How much energy are you going to lose in a smaller bathroom slab? Presumably you will put the floor heat on a programmable thermostat that allows it to run only a few hours per day in the winter months.
Second, if you do want to insulate the slab (and I can understand this) use a better insulator than cork and something that is made specifically for tile. Use either Wedi-board or Kerdi-board and thinset it to the slab -- both have foam cores that insulate well and are designed for floor tile loads (and wall tile). Wedi-board has a cementious coating and Kerdi-board has Kerdi waterproofing. The foam will help retard water vapor migration from the slab up to the floor heating cables and temperature sensor. After you lay the heat mat put Ditra on top (protects the heat mat in case you ever need to chisel out a broken tile).
Most importantly remember that very little heat flows sideways through the tile when using an electric warming mat. This means that you must be sure to place the heat mat under the cabinet toe-kicks and near the toilet, but keep it away from the toilet wax ring. The manufacturer will have a recommended distance for this.
<none>clipped on: 06.05.2014 at 01:05 pm last updated on: 06.05.2014 at 01:05 pm
Most complicated under counter plugmold in the world? (pics!)
I'm wraping up a kitchen remodel and I thought folks here might be interested in some of the details. One interesting detail is the Plugmold (aka Wiremold / Plug Mold)
Legrand Wiremold AL2000 series (clear anodized aluminum finish).
What makes this plugmold most complicated?:
1. It is recessed above a quartz full heigh backsplash. That is, instead of being mounted in front of the backsplash, it's mounted to the the wall behind, creating a recessed look and reducing the projection into the workspace. This required planning at the counter templating to reduce the full height BS enough to allow for the raceway to be mounted an an angle. We guessed a little and gave a little more height than probably necessary, but it was probably helpful to have during the tight installation. We did mount it about 1/4" outward from the edge of the backsplash to cover the rough BS material edge and hide some variation in BS height. I will probably end up caulking the bottom edge of the raceway between the BS to close the small gap visible from the underside
2. It's angled downward toward the countertop. This is a custom angled solution using plywood wedges and shims behind. This creates a more ergonomic plug insertional/removal.
3. Four pieces of raceway are lined up on three separate walls, all connected by two compound miters. One cut is inward at 45-degrees and one is outward at the same angle.
4. GFCI is located inside one of the lower cabinets. This required a lot of advance planning to have the plugmold wiring enter the lower cabinet and then re-emerge right at the point below the upper cabinets.
5. Integrated the under counter LED lighting wiring into the same raceway (for a small portion). This made for less visible wires for the UCL.
The miters were VERY difficult, and working with 12-gauge wire inside the raceway was very frustrating. The mitered edges are not bonded with anything, they are just lined up as close as possible. It's not perfect but I think it looks better than terminating the raceway before each corner.
We used raceway blanks above the sink since there is no useful reason to have plugs there.
There are no holes in the solid quartz backsplash now, which was the goal, and it puts outlets in some useful locations. The photos are taken from an angle below typical standing height so people in the room would generally not even see the plugmold or UCL's, but if you are seated at the island these are visible.
Parts were orded online from a site called Mr. Supply (they did great!).
Here is a list of the parts I used, with part numbers:
Wiremold, Aluminum Plugmold, Plugmold Multi Outlet Strip, AL20GB506
Cuts were made with a saw blade meant for aluminum.
Labor was extensive. I would guess 2 people for 6+ hours, not including the electrical rough-in.
I hope you find this helpful for your plugmold adventures!
<none>clipped on: 06.03.2014 at 10:51 pm last updated on: 06.03.2014 at 10:51 pm
RE: what to check for when your stone counters get installed (Follow-Up #3)
Without question, the most important tool for checking a new stone installation is a level, at least a 4-footer.
Place it over any seams. It should not rock, nor should there be any gaps underneath. The closer to level the better, the MIA allows 3/16" over 10' or so, but I'd take a tad out of level for tops on plane.
If there is an appliance opening, the level should not only be used front to back and side to side, but placed in an "x" over the opening. It should be level in all directions.
Place a straightedge long enough to span appliance openings to ascertain that the adjacent tops are in plane. Tops should be square to the rear wall, parallel to each other, not necessarily parallel to cabinet sides, in appliance openings.
Make sure sinks are mechanically fastened. Wood shims and/or stone scraps polyestered in place is not mechanical fastening. Silicone is to be considered a gasket, not an adhesive bond, between an undermount sink flange and the bottom of the top.
This post was edited by Trebruchet on Thu, May 8, 14 at 18:48
<none>clipped on: 05.18.2014 at 11:34 am last updated on: 05.18.2014 at 11:34 am
RE: Reveal! High end cook's kitchen. Cherry, Miele, maple (Follow-Up #1)
Brief glimpse of demo
<none>clipped on: 04.22.2014 at 05:43 pm last updated on: 04.22.2014 at 05:43 pm
RE: Support brackets for granite overhang? (Follow-Up #4)
Use the "6 & 10 Rule"
....with a corbel or support every 30" of unsupported overhang
If you don't want corbels or legs, consider the "CounterBalance" system instead.
Here is a link that might be useful: Thread: Stone Information and Advice (& Checklists)
<none>clipped on: 04.02.2014 at 03:52 am last updated on: 04.02.2014 at 03:52 am
LED recessed cans guide for kitchen ...
A collection of tips/ answers
Since kitchens have higher lighting requirements, I like to use 35 lumen per sq ft as a rule to compute the number of lights. If there are additional sources of light that will be used, the output (lumens not watts) from those sources can be deducted from the total.
2. Assuming the need for a fairly uniformly lit space @ 35 lumens per sq ft, the cans may have to be spaced closer together - between 3 - 4 ft apart (if all general lighting is provided by recessed lights). A fairly regular pattern is preferable to a random layout.
3. The actual layout of cans will be impacted by the location of ceiling joists, HVAC ducting, electrical wiring, plumbing, ceiling height, fire suppression sprinklers and other obstructions above the ceiling.
Dimmers such as the Lutron Diva CL dimmers work well. The max output is 95%.
Some Choices (in order of preference) and notes
Cree LR6 series - including the LE6.
The Cree CR6 and LR6 lamps will not fit into 5" housings.
The standard LR6 behaves more like a surface mount than a recessed light as the LED emitters are close to the surface and the recess is shallow. Some may not like the amount of light spillage (standard LR6).
There is a higher output version of the LR6 that has a much deeper recess.
To prevent the Cree lamps from falling out, the 3 prongs have to be fully extended and a slight clockwise twist made when push installing. The slight clockwise twist will ensure that the prongs are fully extended.
The Cree lamps are currently the best available today (2012).
Sylvania RT-6, RT-4. The lights could be easier to install than Cree lamps as they utilize the torsion spring mechanism. However, the lights do not look as pleasant as the Cree lamps.
The Cree and Sylvania lamps do outperform 26W CFLs (and incandescents) in a standard recessed can in terms of light spread and output as the standard bulb in a can solution traps a significant amount of light. The Cree and Sylvania recessed lamp solutions referenced above have all the LED elements facing outwards so that the effective light output is higher.
The CRI (Color Rendition Index) of Cree and Sylvania recessed lamps > 80.
There is no warm up time required for Cree recessed lamps, unlike CFL light bulbs.
Most recessed lighting is used with flat ceilings. Sloped ceilings would require special solutions such as the LE6 or some other form of lighting (i.e. -non recessed lighting).
Some common objections to recessed can lights stem from
<none>clipped on: 03.29.2014 at 11:00 am last updated on: 03.29.2014 at 11:00 am
Finished Finished! Rancher Remodel, dark to light! (tons pix)
We are done, we are moved in.....after 17mos living with my mom and enduring living out of cardboard boxes! Love love love my new kitchen!! Thank you to all of you who deeply inspired me (redroze,elizpiz,rm,theanimala,segbrown,many many more!), and I hope you don't mind that there's a piece of each of your kitchens that I copied because I admired it so much. I learned so much by lurking, reading everything then finally posting.
THINGS WE LOVE:
THINGS WE WOULDN'T DO AGAIN:
--Order our range through AJ Madison. Total pain to get this stove delivered. The rest of our appliances came without a hitch but the delivery of the range was a disaster. They refused to deliver it until we had a concrete pathway, but our city had some issues with solid pathways and the runoff, etc. Had 4 delivery dates and they turned around each time and refused to bring it in the house. In the end I would have purchased this through our local store (there was no discount on this by buying on internet, unlike the other appliances).
THINGS WE STILL NEED TO DO:
<none>clipped on: 12.26.2012 at 09:37 pm last updated on: 03.17.2014 at 07:57 pm
RE: buehl, did you have a tutorial on your refrigerator cabinet? (Follow-Up #2)
Not Buehl, but I can probably walk you through creating a basic fridge surround if that's what you are asking here.
Do you have an extra deep over the fridge cabinet (what size is it?) and 3/4" thick 30" deep x your cabinet's top alignment height side panels plus some scribe molding, and a touch up kit?
The place to start is your fridge's utlity connections. You want a recessed box for the water supply and the power supply. If you are on an outside wall where you can't afford to compromise the insulation, you can always inset the box into the adjacent base cabinet in the run. This will keep the plug and water line from interfering with pushing the fridge all the way back into it's cubby.
The next place to start is with your fridge's specs. Some fridges are 35 3/4" wide and meant to go into a 36" space. Some require more space. Check the clearance required at the top as well. Some brands need more than others. If your fridge is one that needs a larger opening than 36", you will have to attach fillers to the 36" cabinet box until you have the recommended width.
Start with the first tall 30" deep panel next to the base cabinet. Attach the panel to the adjacent base and wall cabinets. If you are using a counter depth fridge, the panel only needs to be 24" deep. Ideally, the panel should cover the entire box of the fridge, but as some are deeper than others, check your fridge's specs. 30" is a good "standard" depth that pretty much covers most fridges sold today.
You will now need to install blocking at the top back to push out the over the fridge cabinet to the actual depth of the refrigerator. The bottom alignment height of the cabinet should be 72", so that is where you take a 2"x6" on edge and pre-drill for lag bolts to screw into the studs to extend the depth of the studs. After you have the studs extended, cover them with 1/2" plywood. You want the overall depth of the blocking plus the cabinet box to equal to the depth of the side panel, and if you custom cut the side panel to match your fridge, you may have to do some fiddling with the blocking here. The overall plywood covered blocking should equal the width of the fridge cabinet. I have had some installer use the build up area where the blocking is located to install the recessed power and water supply. It's often better to do that than to impinge on the storage in the adjacent cabinet. It all depends on how you have to run the electricity and water.
Now you're on to the other side of the enclosure. Take the second panel and attach it to the blocking. If you have a second cabinet on the other side of the recess, then attach the panel to the base and wall cabinets there. If you don't have cabinets there to stabilize the panel, then you may want to install a bit of very small blocking into the interior at the rear wall to give you something to nail the side panel to.
OK, now you've got your cubby. Using a jack or several grunt labororers, lift up the fridge cabinet and attach it to the blocking at the rear. If you've done your job right and made sure everything is plumb (that's a BIG deal for a cubby) then it should just slip between the side panels perfectly and be level without any shims or tweaking. Then attach it to the side panels just like you would attach wall cabinet to wall cabinet (behind the hinge plate to disguise it), making sure to use short enough screws so as not to screw through the panels.
Cover the front cut edge of the panel with scribe molding as well as where the panel joins the wall between the base and wall cabinets. Some people will use scribe molding at the floor level against the floor and others will use 1/4" round or baseboard molding. It's an aesthetic choice, but you want to cover the panel/floor transition. Install the crown molding. There will be an approximate 2" gap between the bottom of the cabinet and the top of the fridge (because standard fridge height is 70)-71") and you can attach light rail molding to the cabinet or a horizontal filler on a piano hinge that you can flip up in order to store some cookie sheets or something on top of the fridge.
Use the touch up kit's fill stick to fill any of the pin nails, and then you're ready to plug in the fridge and attach the water line and roll it back into it's cubby.
<none>clipped on: 03.17.2014 at 06:01 pm last updated on: 03.17.2014 at 06:01 pm
Paper Towels--To Those With Built In Holders
<none>clipped on: 03.12.2014 at 02:48 pm last updated on: 03.12.2014 at 02:48 pm
Lighting for open shelves
I haven't been on this forum for quite a while. We finished our kitchen about 5 years ago and I found gardenweb to be an invaluable source of information and help. I love my current kitchen.
We're now under contract to buy a new-to-us house and I'm starting to gather information for a kitchen refresh. The new kitchen has birch Ikea cabinets, lots of counter space, good appliances, and a layout that I like a lot. I won't mess with the lower cabinets or the countertop, but I don't like the upper cabinets that are in there now.
There are 4 upper cabinets, and I'm leaning toward replacing 2 of them with open shelving/floating shelves. I love the look and convenience and I think it will work well in the space. What I don't know is what kind of task lighting works with open shelves. Any suggestions? Do I use puck lights? I wan't crazy about the ones I had in a previous kitchen, but those were from Home Depot so they were probably crap. I'd love to hear what others with open shelves have done. Pictures would be appreciated!
I'm very excited about the new house, and I'm excited to have a kitchen that needs tinkering with again. I've missed the kitchen forum!
<none>clipped on: 03.11.2014 at 11:43 pm last updated on: 03.11.2014 at 11:43 pm
Air Gap/Soap Dispenser or other solution?
In CA, code requires an air gap for dishwashers even when the dishwasher doesn't require it (Bosch). I am changing my sink, countertop and faucet and want a single hole faucet... but now I have to deal with the ugly air gap and put in another hole for it!
I found some clever air gaps that double as soap dispensers, but they appear very cheaply made and the reviews say they leak soap under the counter etc. I rarely use soap (everything goes in the dishwasher except non stick pans) so I don't want to add something that will cause me problems. I'd rather have a plain air gap than one that creates a mess!
Are there decorative air gaps or other solutions that you have found?
I have heard that some people put in a soap dispenser and put the air gap under the counter, then remove the soap dispenser and install the air gap "properly" in that hole when and if required. I don't understand how that works - does one just take the current hose setup and anchor it as high as possible underneath the countertop? Not saying I plan to try that, I'm just curious!
<none>clipped on: 03.09.2014 at 12:01 pm last updated on: 03.09.2014 at 12:01 pm
size/number of pendants for 10 x 5 island?
I want the Clemson pendant from RH, which comes in 8,14, and 18" diameters. I pretty much eliminated the 8" size. I think either 2-3 for 14" or 2 18". The kitchen is open to the family room so the pendants will be very visible from anywhere in the 'great room' living area. The overall kitchen space is around 21 by 15.
here is the space:
we are still at drywall stage so I can't do the balloon trick yet.
Any advice please?
<none>clipped on: 03.07.2014 at 05:24 pm last updated on: 03.07.2014 at 05:24 pm
RE: Share your thoughts on large shower niche (Follow-Up #6)
Thanks for the suggestion dvarnell, but we are planning on doing a large niche(about 60" tall) with only the bottom ledge and no additional shelves, so you will be able to see the majority of the niche mosaic. We typically only have three bottles in the shower (shampoo, conditioner, and bodywash) and a razor so the large niche is more of a tile accent wall but serving as a niche as well.
Here is another online sample of a large niche, except this is much deeper than what we are planning on doing.
<none>clipped on: 10.05.2012 at 05:57 pm last updated on: 10.05.2012 at 05:57 pm
fun details and some answers to questions... (Follow-Up #61)
THANK YOU!!!! I am blown over by the lovely words you all have. Really, It's so nice to hear every word after so much belly-aching over details and having a very clear picture in my head that I defended over and over (DH, contractor, etc) i.e., ..."You sure you want the bottom cabs stained and NOT the top???"... or... "i don't think mixing hardware like this is how it's done"... ;o)
I was TKO every second of this and totally loved it! lol
And YES!! Im loving that Bluestar and cooking is a dream in the bright space! I do think i will need to learn how to cool all over again though - I've made quite a few things and never really got the burner knob much past low! that thing is HOT! :D
So more deets..
Palimsest - the woodwork was done my the cabinet guys ...
Gardenamy - the Flooring is Garrison Deluxe
califreckles - Thank you!
aliris19 & trailrunner - thanks guys! The Bronze statue was an anniversary gift form my DH for our "Bronze" anniversary. He did good huh?? and no Becky, "gulp!" she's not a towel pig! :P
louisianapurchase - thank you! it's funny you mention "the grill above the fridge" it's my kitchen's dirty little secret!
All of the upper cabs (except for 3) are fake. I had 15" soffits there before and hated them like crazy. The only way i was going to get my lofty feel was that stacked cab look, so we just made faces for them all. The GC and cabinet guys really thought i was crazy when i said i wanted hinges and hardware on them.
open pic - the hardware on here is where my DH thought i had lost it. 4 different kinds threw him off completely. But i wanted these (RH Grafton Pulls) to be opened with a pinky if need be and i wanted to hang kitchen towels on them as well. I think they work.
and lastly, i think... the clock! I got it at target years ago.
ok, off to make dinner! :D
<none>clipped on: 04.06.2012 at 02:09 pm last updated on: 04.06.2012 at 02:10 pm
Pip's Kitchen - updated photos
I posted my kitchen last year after our reno was mostly complete, but I never got around to taking photos of it after we got our banquette table and moved back in to the space. A friend of mine is a photographer and snapped some recent photos for us, so I thought I'd share the final, finished photos of the kitchen, one year later. Thanks again to this super helpful forum which helped us so much in this remodel!
--pip aka pipdog
Here is a link that might be useful: Original post with all the details
<none>clipped on: 03.29.2012 at 03:22 pm last updated on: 03.29.2012 at 03:22 pm
RE: Banquette Bench: CKGM and Shelayne -- pics please! (Follow-Up #3)
Hi BalTra, here is a shot of mine. It is three 36" W X 15"H, 24" deep cabinets, cut to a depth of 22.5" (I think), topped with Lagan butcher block and cushions. The filler is a piece on each end, as the bench is almost 10' long. I originally wanted it to be moveable, but DH wanted it built-in. Since he was the one installing it, he won.;) He built a low platform for it. The cushions bring the height over the height of the chairs, but it has not been a problem for us. If we wanted to, we could remove the cushions, and only have the wood top, as we finished that with Waterlox, and it would be the same height as the dining chairs.
We are very happy with how our banquette bench turned out.
<none>clipped on: 03.29.2012 at 03:20 pm last updated on: 03.29.2012 at 03:21 pm