"A windbreak consists of any type of barrier designed to slow down the velocity and redirect the flow of wind. A good windbreak will not create excessive turbulence or wind eddies. Effective windbreaks do not stop the wind but break its forward movement, to slow it down. Solid barriers, such as walls and buildings, create unexpected wind currents and wind tunnels, often with increased velocity and unpredictable direction. Windbreaks composed of living plants allow some of the wind to slowly penetrate, making them more effective."
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/southerngarden/coastplants.html

"Research has shown that a porous windbreak
allows some wind to filter through, providing better downwind
protection than a solid windbreak of the same height. A
windbreak with 20% porosity provides some wind protection as
far as 12 times the fence height downwind, and very good
shelter to about 6 fence heights downwind."

http://www.cps.gov.on.ca/english/plans/E8000/8368/M-8368L.pdf

The theory is sound, I question your methods :)

Evergreens are recomended, especialy since winter months can be stormier.

However, it takes years to esablish. Mine is three years old, and not even near established.

For a Quick artificial windbreak you would want to mimick nature, and disperse, as opposed to block the wind.

A wall built of alternating inside and outside planks, or with lattice, will help

As my main interest is chiles, eggplants, and tomatoes, these are what I have predominantly grown. The plants have grown extremely well, with many fruits produced.

The biggest problem I had was keeping up with the nutrient supply in the heat of Summer. Sometimes having to re-fill the 70L tank with water and nutrients 2 or 3 times a week.

I can recommend the smart valve II for a passive hydroponic setup, but have no experience with the Autopots.

Mark
(Melbourne, Australia)

Transplant Tonic

When dividing perennials, soak the best rooted pieces in this Tonic for about 10 minutes just before replanting them.
1 can of beer
1/4 cup of instant tea granules
2 tbsp. of liquid dish soap
2 gal. of water
When you're finished transplanting, use a small pail to scoop up any leftover Tonic and dribble it around the new transplants.

Tree Transplanting Tonic

1/3 cup of hydrogen peroxide
1/4 cup of instant tea granules
1/4 cup of whiskey
1/4 cup of baby shampoo
2 tbsp. of fish fertilizer
Mix all of these ingredients with 1 gallon of warm water in a bucket, and pour it into the hole when you transplant a tree or a shrub.

Hope this helps you out, Arina!

Dianna

I used Mentha Pulegium (European pennroyal) because it is a perennial and stays lower to the ground than the American pennyroyal. Also, the European tolerates partial shade and moist soil (a plus in my situation). I've found it to be relatively easy to keep in line as far as mints go. My herb book shows it to be hardy to zone 5.

The only downside is that you need to buy it like you buy Avon or Tupperware, from someone who sells for Shaklee. Super-long lasting, and thus very economical bought by the gallon (which lasts me at least a year).

Pure castile soaps, like Dr. Bronners, are good for cleaning humans, floors, and are ok on dishes. Haven't found a laundry soap that I like though. I think any soap that's a soap (and not a detergent)is ok to use. Using the smallest quantities possible is best for the plants and animals in your wetland.

The pipe is fitted to all the big pots. You can use it to top-up and check the level of the nutrient with a stick. But it takes up too much space on the smaller pots.
The wicks are made from floormops. They're pure cotton. I check them out by dangling the end in a glass of water to see how high they suck up the moisture. Usually about 4-5". That gives you a clue as to how high the level of the nutrient in the pots should be.
I cut from four up to twelve half inch holes in the bottom of the plastic insert pot depending on size. Then I just plug the holes with the wicks, looping them from one hole to the next in crisscross fashion. On top of that goes a one inch layer of sawdust(perlite) and then the rest of the medium mixture, with a thin layer of bark chips on top for decoration.

One bit of warning:
If you transplant a potplant, be careful to remove as much of the soil as possible to avoid fouling the nutrient and medium. Let the plant soak overnight, then gently shake loose the soil, and repeat of few times.
But even then I have found that the initial nutrient solution starts to rot within a week or two. Just clean the outer pot and let the insert soak in plain tapwater for a while. Then fill-up with nutrient and start again.
This - usually - wont happen again, and I have found that the nutrient stays remarkebly fresh afterwards.

1. Purchase a roll of the wire mesh that is used under stucco on houses. It is easily available at Home Depot or Lowe's. With wire cutters cut off a length about 90 inches long and 36 inches wide. Form this into a circle and wire the two cut edges together. This type of mesh is very rigid and strong. Wear gloves when handling it to protect your hands.

2. Put the wire cylinder in place. Cut and fit a piece of landscape fabric sized to go around both the inside and outside of the cylinder in one continuous piece. Cut edges can be stapled together.

3. Pound two stakes on the inside edge to hold all in place. Construction completed. Begin filling it with your greens. When all has composted the cylinder is easily lifted upward and the compost just spills out and when you have collected it simply slide your bin down over the two stakes again.

I have four of these tucked around my yard. They really work. And the reason that they do not have to be turned is that the landscape cloth has minute holes in it which allows air to pass into the pile around the sides. When I am watering plants I also give the 'composters' a drink. Wish I had thought of this years ago. It is so simple and effective for small gardens. It is a variation of another composting technique, but much easier and, as I have found, more efficient.

Unfortunately, even my county extension service was fuzzy on this question (first time I've stumped them in 35 years!) when I asked about safety of the Solanum berries. Through Google, I found several useful websites for both types of huckleberries and am now ready to go pick this year's very, very bitter Solanums (Solana?) and try for some jam (results to be posted later!!). BTW, birds, squirrels, rabbits, insects, and coyotes have universally left these alone.

Tradewindsfruit.com has a concise page of info on Solanum. It is from West Africa, is a variety of nightshade, is an easy to grow annual, and Wonderberry was hybridized from it by Luther Burbank (which they say has a superior flavor). They caution that the berries are POISONOUS when unripe (ripe is when the purple/black berries go from shiney to dull).

Berrygrape.oregonstate.edu has an excellent report on all things native huckleberry (the blueberry-like shrub) and caution getting mixed up at nurseries selling "garden huckleberries"--a very different fruit, which we all now know!

Hope that helps!

I've been preaching the need to re-regionalize the food supply for years, but Barbara Kingsolver will make a much bigger impact than my small voice. And the fact that she's a terrific writer as well who entertains while she educates doesn't hurt. Read her book and press it on everyone you know, especially those well meaning friends who shop at Whole Foods and think they're doing the right thing.

I read this tip in Mother Earth News when a reader wrote it in to them. Errr, or at least I think it was in this magazine. Anyways, I love it! But one does have to be careful not to use it to closely to wanted plants!

sammie

I also check out sandwich shops like Subway - they get pickles in them. If the pickles smell bothers you, just toss in some soapy water and baking soda and let sit for a couple of days and the pickle smell goes away.

I have also gotten buckets from painters - they get their paint in 5 gal buckets and usually toss them. Doesn't take long to clean those - just hose out if they have wet paint in them or if it has dried it usually just peels off!

For compost tea I just put the barn litter into a sack that I made out of fabric - like a giant tea bag! You don't have to strain solids out - when done just empty the bag out into the compost pile, hose off the bag and reuse it. Dont forget to tie it tight at the top and leave a long piece of rope to pull it up and out with!

You can also use the 5 gallon plastic buckets for planting and they make good strawberry type containers. you can put bush beans in the holes in the sides and climbers in the top and use a tomato cage for them to climb up. Put the tomato cages in the bucket with the wide end down. Cut off the "legs", make those pieces into stakes by bending over a hook with pliers and use those to "stake" the rim down into the bucket Works great!

You don't have to be old to think of these things - but it helps!!! Lots of trial and error here after over 40 yrs of gardening!

Cheers - MagicKiwi

Not sure where you are located but Denver Water (if they are your provider) does not allow the use of rain barrels. Something to do with calculating the amount of water that travels to eastern CO or somethin'.

But hey....I wouldn't tell. Just make sure no one sees it if prohibited.

I do use a 5 gal bucket in the shower to catch the water as the shower warms up. It's ok by Denver Water too (unless they changed). You'd be amazed at how fast a 5 gal bucket fills up!

And if the amount of precip these past 6 months, and temps over the last few weeks are an indicator...it is gonna be a heck of a hot and dry summmer!

HYBRIDIZING TAGS: Cut little rectangles from a plastic bacon sheet that bacon is lined out on. Use a hole punch to put a hole near one end and slit with scissors from the hole to the end. Write the name of the pollen parent on the rectangle piece of plastic and gently push it onto the stem at the bottom of the bloom. Many blank tags can be cut from a single sheet.

WALL POCKET: Cut the bottom end out of a used coffee can. Step on the lower end to press the sides together at the end. Crimp with pliers. Punch two holes on each side near the top and insert a wire coat hanger for the handle. Paint, decorate and fill with soil. Now you are ready to plant. They look great hanging on a fence or outside wall.

STENCIL FOR WALL POCKET: With a permanent marker, trace a design onto a plastic bacon sheet. Cut the design out with a sharp blade. Now you are ready to put it over your painted can and dry brush paint into the hole.

» Plastic soda bottles or milk jugs: You can cut off the top of any size plastic soda bottle (and add drain holes) and have a see-through container. My daughter loves to see the roots growing in these!

Vases rarely fit in the cup holder of my car. So when taking someone a bouquet, I use a soda bottle to hold the flowers until I get there, then put them in the proper vase.

Not garden-related (unless your garden is WAY bigger than mine - LOL!) but I also wash these and fill about 3/4 of the way with water and freeze. When going somewhere, fill the rest of the way with water, add lid & you've got ice water to drink until the ice is all melted.

Also great to put in a cooler instead of ice cubes so the cooler doesn't get full of water. (And you can drink the water when it melts, or use to rinse dirty hands and feet.)

My Uncle used to do this with gallon milk jugs. He took them on his tractor and he could stay out all morning or afternoon with plenty of ice cold water to drink.

» Baby food jars: These make excellent seed containers. Poke a few holes in the lid to sprinkle the seeds, like a salt shaker. (Holes also prevent seeds from molding until ready to use.)

» Spice containers: Same as above, but with holes already.

» Film canisters: Same as above, add holes.

» Plastic forks: Stick in containers or other garden areas (tines up) to prevent squirrels from burying nuts, and cats from defacating.

» Fishing line: Use as a trellis for vines.

» Wire hangers: Untwist and use as stakes, or guide-wire for wayward branches. Use several to create an obelisk (with fishing line) to grow a vine. You could also create a little fence bending them into "U" shapes and sticking the ends in the ground, as close or as far apart as you like.

» Bits of broken clay pots and bricks: Excellent for keeping drain holes in containers from clogging.

Paper towels---I've been trying to get away from using sooooo many----but I use some for lining pots--holds soil in

Old boards--use to make cute signs---a little spray paint

Rusty loaf pans---another GWebber gave this tip on another forum---use old loaf pans for holding plants on a window sill ---works great!

I'm testing this one----the container thingys that come with cookies that have sections---plant 3 types of seeds

Kitty litter pans---we bought one of those fancy covered ones for our kitties---well, they didn't use it---too dark in there, I guess! lol I'm using the top and bottom to hold planter pots

I'm also testing this one---old floor lamps---had 2 ready for the dumpster---after looking at them I decided to make some adjustments and use as topiaries for Morning Glories. I plan on putting a couple of planter pots at bottom---attached with wire and let them grow up the lamp. I've already sprayed them green.

POLLEN KEEPERS: Tea Packages that hold tea bags make good pollen keepers. Just write the name of the flower on the outside, collect the pollen inside, and freeze in a plastic freezer box. I figured this out when I ran out of film canisters and pill bottles. Glad to finally find another use for them, so I can throw them away. (Smile)

BUG PICKERUPER: A toothpaste box with the flaps cut off and cut into three cubes can be used to easily pick up dead bugs without wasting a paper towel. Just place the box over the bug and squeeze.

SOIL FILTER: Used coffee filters placed inside plastic gallon nursery pots before the soil is added help hold the soil in when the pots are watered.

NOTE CARDS: Cereal boxes and other light cardboard boxes cut into 3x5 cards make notes cards for the garden.

PLASTIC TRAY: Cut the top off vinegar, bleach, milk, water or other gallon jugs and place under the gallon nursery pots for a perfect water tray and seed starter.

SLUG BAIT: If you don’t mind emptying it EVERYDAY, pour the cheapest beer in a tuna can and place it beside the plant the slugs are chewing, but it can be deadly if left to rot.

Can anyone else share you ideas. If I think of others, I will add them later.

Happy trails from The Chism Trail Garden
Chism

The reason I paint the top bottle black (well you really don’t need to, just looks better) is just simple cooking, like baking a cake, to increase the heat on the media inside which increases the pressure on the top few inches of the mix by water evaporation . The plant is placed so tightly it blocks the upper opening. As the plants roots feed on the parts of the mix they leave open spaces. This causes the the media to swell and creates air chambers where the evaporated water, air and nutrient to mix. A constant stream of moving air laden with that juice mix over every root in the mix in the form of water vapor.. You can see the condensation gathering round the rim to run down and fall at the base of the plant. Over and over. All day long. That’s why you water from the top for the first three weeks. After that the roots will have grown into the lower bottle so start adding water from there.
I was getting ready to make something and wanted to fine tune a point or two. Don’t make the strip of towel wider than an inch. Perilite is expensive or if weight is a problem you can reduce the volume of media by adding a chunks of Styrofoam. Rule of thumb? As long as you can’t see them thru the media your alright. But if their allowed to reflect sunlight back against the clear plastic you’ll make a hot spot. Now what else was there. Oh yeah you can use the Styrofoam packing that normally comes in form pieces for packing stuff. . Rule of thumb? Wash the whole piece off. If water sticks to it don’t use it.
Now you are asking a plant to grow in a much smaller space so give it as clean a mix as you can. Pick out little twigs and other debris.

These are what I water with. Simple 1 liter recycled bottles. This is the idea of squirt vs dosing. Now we come to watering...and...and understanding water as structure. Cause water can create structure. When we till the soil we’re breaking up one form of structure to create another form of structure. That crumbling mass we leave behind is now mixed with air and moisture. The kind of stuff you’d run thru your fingers if you have a mind. Nice and fluffy. Add water it starts to lose that air slowly till it flattens out on the bottom of what ever it’s in till the water evaporate and we have a hard mess on the bottom. We want something in between. This is where the fertilize from the top water from the bottom question get’s answered. First I want you to understand this method uses 1/5 the water in ground gardening does. The system is closed so what ever water is added is going to be in there awhile. That’s why your going to add just a little. When I first start a plant right after it’s in it’s pod I give it a squirt. About twice the amount you put in your coffee or tea. *I mean that seriously*. The store mix is already fluffed. Your spading it around is even fluffing it more. Next your placing a plant in very tight pocket. But the plant has a very limited set of roots to make use of the nutrient rich soup being evaporated by the sunlight at first. We’re thinking of water vapor here. Anyone who ever wore a plastic jogging suit can tell you it makes you sweat. It’s no different that the inside of that bottle. Moisture’s going to cling to everything just like your underwear will in that suit. The roots will be dripping little beads of moisture. Every solid object will collect moisture, even roots, beads, drips, forms small space, next to roots, roots grow, more water vapor gathers, more spaces. Soon these spaces forms little passages directly to the surface (or sides). There begins a constant exchange of moist air being circulated thru out the mix. This water vapor rises along the sides collect on the rim and drips back down under the plant. Now watch the rim because that’s how you tell when to water. When the moisture disappears from the rim, water. Mark down the time it takes between watering. Now in another post I mention a "three way Valve" The towel, the Perilite and the mix. The mix is the "tea", the Perilite is the milk and the toewl (water) is the thing you use the most of. The tea is produced when you water from the top and when you fertilize. You don’t water from the bottom till you have good root growth or the mix loose’s it’s fluffy nature. You don’t add fertilizer from the bottom because of creating too wide a range of ph. It just becomes and airless mud mass. The towel holds moisture better than the mix so the roots that form there are for when you start to water from the bottom. That’s how you get to grow a big plant in a little space. Then there the Perilite. The Perilite draws moisture from the towel which really can only draw up so much. So instead of the mix becoming an airless mass because of the amount of water the towel can bring, it act as a valve drawing water away at the neck and spreading it evenly across the bottom of the mix. By giving the system just a little water to start you keep the mix fluffy. Better air passage. Better formation of roots. No water gets out of this system save thru the plant. That’s why I say only add a little to get it started. Same can be said of fertilizer. The system is constantly leeching the itself drawing the nutrients you add over and over till the last little bit is drawn out.

Now someone brought up about this picture

What's wrong with this corn. It has the right number of rows and is the right size. It just didn't get pollenated right because

The Dark Gardening Method allows you to grow crops so dense new problems arise you have to figure out. I learned what the problem was right here on the GardenWeb. I didn't even have to ask anyone.

The smart valve is designed to be immersed in the media, sitting in water. When the water falls below a certain level, the smart valve opens up and floods the media bed. When the water rises to a certain level, the smart valve closes and stops water from entering the media bed. There is a piece under the smart valve that rises and falls according to the level of the water.

Your idea of the emergency tank for overflow is a good one. I have had the unit flood my hydro bed a couple of times due to the smart valve getting fouled. Might also be worth putting a small inline filter between the nutrient tank and the smart valve. They usually sell them with the smart valve.

Mark

If you use coarse sand like I do, you can plant seeds directly into the sand bed. Under some circumstances, with a big spoon and a careful hand, you can shift seedlings from one place to another if sprouted in sand. I use small twigs as markers so they can be found, and so nothing else gets planted on top of them.

If you are transplanting seedlings grown in soil or some sort of potting mix or seed raising mix, into a hydroponic system, it is recommended that you wash all of the debris off the roots before transplanting into a hydroponic system.

Read all about it on my web site from Australia.
If you get stuck or need more information, just email me using the email address on the web site.

If you save each page as its own name on to your computer, all in the one directory, you can freely browse it when you get off-line.

Cheers,
Jimr007
Australia.

Here is a link that might be useful: Simple Sand Hydroponics

CONTAINER SOILS AND WATER IN CONTAINERS
Posted by tapla z5b-6a MI (My Page) on Sat, Mar 19, 05 at 15:57

The following is very long & will be too boring for some to wade through. Two years ago, some of my posts got people curious & they started to e-mail me about soil problems. The "Water Movement" article is an answer I gave in an e-mail. I saved it and adapted it for my bonsai club newsletter & it was subsequently picked up & used by a number of other clubs. I now give talks on container soils and the physics of water movement in containers to area clubs.
I think, as container gardeners, our first priority is to insure aeration for the life of the soil. Since aeration and drainage are inversely linked to soil particle size, it makes good sense to try to find a soil component with particles larger than peat and that will retain its structure for extended periods. Pine bark fits the bill nicely.

The following hits pretty hard against the futility of using a drainage layer in an attempt to improve drainage. It just doesn't work. All it does is reduce the soil available for root colonization. A wick will remove the saturated layer of soil. It works in reverse of the self-watering pots widely being discussed on this forum now. I have no experience with these growing containers, but understand the principle well.

There are potential problems with wick watering that can be alleviated with certain steps. Watch for yellowing leaves with these pots. If they begin to occur, you need to flush the soil well. It is the first sign of chloride damage.

One of the reasons I posted this is because of the number of soil questions I'm getting in my mail. It will be a convenient source for me to link to. I will soon be in the middle of repotting season & my time here will be reduced, unfortunately, for me. I really enjoy all the friends I've made on these forums. ;o)

Since there are many questions about soils appropriate for containers, I'll post by basic mix in case any would like to try it. It will follow the Water Movement info.

Water Movement in Soils

Consider this if you will:

Soil need fill only a few needs in plant culture. Anchorage - A place for roots to extend, securing the plant and preventing it from toppling. Nutrient Sink - It must retain sufficient nutrients to sustain plant systems. Gas Exchange - It must be sufficiently porous to allow air to the root system. And finally, Water - It must retain water enough in liquid and/or vapor form to sustain plants between waterings. Most plants could be grown without soil as long as we can provide air, nutrients, and water, (witness hydroponics). Here, I will concentrate primarily on the movement of water in soil(s).

There are two forces that cause water movement through soil - one is gravity, the other capillary action. Gravity needs little explanation, but for this writing I would like to note: Gravitational flow potential (GFP) is greater for water at the top of the pot than it is for water at the bottom of the pot. I'll return to that later. Capillarity is a function of the natural forces of adhesion and cohesion. Adhesion is water's tendency to stick to solid objects like soil particles and the sides of the pot. Cohesion is the tendency for water to stick to itself. Cohesion is why we often find water in droplet form - because cohesion is at times stronger than adhesion, water’s bond to itself can be stronger than the bond to the object it might be in contact with; in this condition it forms a drop. Capillary action is in evidence when we dip a paper towel in water. The water will soak into the towel and rise several inches above the surface of the water. It will not drain back into the source. It will stop rising when the GFP equals the capillary attraction of the fibers in the paper.

There is, in every pot, what is called a "perched water table" (PWT). This is water that occupies a layer of soil that is always saturated & will not drain at the bottom of the pot. It can evaporate or be used by the plant, but physical forces will not allow it to drain. It is there because the capillary pull of the soil at some point will equal the GFP; therefore, the water does not drain, it is "perched". If we fill five cylinders of varying heights and diameters with the same soil mix and provide each cylinder with a drainage hole, the PWT will be exactly the same height in each container. This is the area of the pot where roots seldom penetrate & where root problems begin due to a lack of aeration. From this we can draw the conclusion that: Tall growing containers are a superior choice over squat containers when using the same soil mix. The reason: The level of the PWT will be the same in each container, with the taller container providing more usable, air holding soil above the PWT. Physiology dictates that plants must be able to take in air at the roots in order to complete transpiration and photosynthesis.

A given volume of large soil particles have less overall surface area in comparison to the same volume of small particles and therefore less overall adhesive attraction to water. So, in soils with large particles, GFP more readily overcomes capillary attraction. They drain better. We all know this, but the reason, often unclear, is that the PWT is lower in coarse soils than in fine soils. The key to good drainage is size and uniformity of soil particles. Large particles mixed with small particles will not improve drainage because the smaller particles fit between the large, increasing surface area which increases the capillary attraction and thus the water holding potential. Water and air cannot occupy the same space at the same time. Contrary to what some hold to be true, sand does not improve drainage. Pumice (aka lava rock), or one of the hi-fired clay products like Turface are good additives which help promote drainage and porosity because of their irregular shape.

Now to the main point: When we use a coarse drainage layer under our soil, it does not improve drainage. It does conserve on the volume of soil required to fill a pot and it makes the pot lighter. When we employ this exercise in an attempt to improve drainage, what we are actually doing is moving the level of the PWT higher in the pot. This reduces available soil for roots to colonize, reduces total usable pot space, and limits potential for beneficial gas exchange. Containers with uniform soil particle size from top of container to bottom will yield better drainage and have a lower PWT than containers with drainage layers. The coarser the drainage layer, the more detrimental to drainage it is because water is more (for lack of a better scientific word) reluctant to make the downward transition because the capillary pull of the soil above the drainage layer is stronger than the GFP. The reason for this is there is far more surface area in the soil for water to be attracted to than there is in the drainage layer.

I know this goes against what most have thought to be true, but the principle is scientifically sound, and experiments have shown it as so. Many nurserymen are now employing the pot-in-pot or the pot-in-trench method of growing to capitalize on the science.

If you discover you need to increase drainage, insert a wick into the pot & allow it to extend from the PWT to several inches below the bottom of the pot. This will successfully eliminate the PWT & give your plants much more soil to grow in as well as allow more, much needed air to the roots.

Uniform size particles of fir, hemlock or pine bark are excellent as the primary component of your soils. The lignin contained in bark keeps it rigid and the rigidity provides air-holding pockets in the root zone far longer than peat or compost mixes that rapidly break down to a soup-like consistency. Bark also contains suberin, a lipid sometimes referred to as nature’s preservative. Suberin is what slows the decomposition of bark-based soils. It contains highly varied hydrocarbon chains and the microorganisms that turn peat to soup have great difficulty cleaving these chains.

In simple terms: Plants that expire because of drainage problems either die of thirst because the roots have rotted and can no longer take up water, or they starve to death because they cannot obtain sufficient air at the root zone for the respiratory or photosynthetic processes.

To confirm the existence of the PWT and the effectiveness of using a wick to remove it, try this experiment: Fill a soft drink cup nearly full of garden soil. Add enough water to fill to the top, being sure all soil is saturated. Punch a drain hole in the bottom of the cup & allow to drain. When the drainage stops, insert a wick several inches up into the drain hole . Take note of how much additional water drains. This is water that occupied the PWT before being drained by the wick. A greatly simplified explanation of what occurs is: The wick "fools" the water into thinking the pot is deeper, so water begins to move downward seeking the "new" bottom of the pot, pulling the rest of the PWT along with it.

Having applied these principles in the culture of my containerized plants, both indoors and out, for many years, the methodology I have adopted has shown to be effective and of great benefit to them. I use many amendments when building my soils, but the basic building process starts with screened bark and perlite. Peat usually plays a very minor role in my container soils because it breaks down rapidly and when it does, it impedes drainage.

My Soil

I'll give two recipes. I usually make big batches.

3 parts pine bark fines
1 part sphagnum peat (not reed or sedge peat)
1-2 parts perlite
garden lime
controlled release fertilizer
micro-nutrient powder (substitute: small amount of good, composted manure

Big batch:

3 cu ft pine bark fines (1 big bag)
5 gallons peat
5 gallons perlite
1 cup lime (you can add more to small portion if needed)
2 cups CRF
1/2 cup micro-nutrient powder or 1 gal composted manure

Small batch:

3 gallons pine bark
1/2 gallon peat
1/2 gallon perlite
handful lime (careful)
1/4 cup CRF
1 tsp micro-nutrient powder or a dash of manure ;o)

I have seen advice that some highly organic soils are productive for up to 5 years. I disagree. Even if you were to substitute fir bark for pine bark in this recipe (and this recipe will far outlast any peat based soil) you should only expect a maximum of three years life before a repot is in order. Usually perennials, including trees (they're perennials too, you know ;o)) should be repotted more frequently to insure vigor closer to genetic potential. If a soil is desired that will retain structure for long periods, we need to look to inorganic amendments. Some examples are crushed granite, pea stone, coarse sand (no smaller than BB size in containers, please), Haydite, lava rock, Turface or Schultz soil conditioner.

I hope this starts a good exchange of ideas & opinions so we all can learn.

Al

Im trying new unusuals all the time
all the best and happy gardening from Aus.

Diva... gotta go run and clean before hubby gets home.

I tried a mixture of Pantene clarifying shampoo and seaweed spray using about two tablespoons of seaweed liquid and a "good squirt" of shampoo in a gallon of water, and sprayed with a pressure sprayer. Since then, I have seen two or three whiteflies total. Since they multiply rapidly, I'll probably apply another one or two treatments. I didn't have them in biblical proportions yet, but they were causing some yellowing of squash plant leaves, and there were lots of them in the tomatoes.
Mrs H

I use baking soda in my bath water - along with a mild dish washing detergent (lots of bubbles!). The bath water is so soft and it does not dry out my skin and it is very relaxing. Better than expensive and messy bath salts. I like sunlight grapefruit detergent it smells nice and the lemon is also very nice.

Bathing in baking soda/dish washing detergent also cleans the bathtub, no grimy soap scum, just rinse! And it shines like new.

THEN - before I empty the bathtub I scoop up some of the bath water and dump it in the toilet, then use the toilet brush. The john sparkles.

There you go, 3 uses for baking soda all at once! I go in for a bath and the bathroom gets cleaned a the same time.

If you've read the wash,repeat,rinse thread you'll see that I have a thing for Sunlight detergent! LOL

The cheap and lazy BJ - who likes a clean bathroom

1 part Ammonia
1 part White Vinegar
1 part Water
1 part Liquid Detergent

Put the liquid detergent in last, because it tends to sink to the bottom. I use the store bought stain remover as a back up.

Besides vinegar I use 20 mule team or Arm and Hammer WAshing soda for toilet, laundry, some scrubbing.

Hydrogen peroxide and diswashing liquid for stains in clothing

Fels Naptha soap for stains as well.

Rubbing alcohol to polish chrome and in a pinch clean mirrors

Lemons in my dishwashing liquid and down the drain and to take stains out of whites, if isolated

That's really about all you need, if you add in the vinegar and baking soda as recommended above

Clean from the top down. Do the floors (vacuum or wipe up) last.

Dusting Swiffers will cut dusting in half.

Flannel can be used on floor Swiffers in place of the purchased pads and can be washed instead of tossing, cutting cost.

Long handled dusting Swiffers make short work of fans, corners, etc.

No...I don't have stock in the Swiffer Company, just find that they are cutting cleaning time in half.

Murphy's Oil Soap does a good job of cleaning real wood (in spite of the fact that you are using water on wood).

Set a timer for jobs you have been putting off. Just start somewhere and when the timer goes off ...quit. A few days of this and those detested jobs will be done.

Good luck with your move and have fun in your new house...