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Master Bath Reveal - Small space, big style

posted by: firsthome on 03.15.2014 at 06:03 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We don't have the bathroom shade installed yet, but I wanted to post pictures of our master bathroom reveal.

Our 1976 small 7' x 7.5' bathroom was gutted to the studs and completely remodeled. We had an interior wall removed used a frameless glass shower to open up the small space.

It was a lot of hard work designing, planning and purchasing everything (we hired a contractor for the actual work) but it was worth it, as we love everything about it.

Here are a few before pictures...

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Master bathroom before 02 photo MasterBathBefore003.jpg

Master bathroom before 03 photo MasterBathBefore002.jpg

And the after....
Master bathroom 02 photo DSC_0582.jpg

master bathroom 01 photo DSC_0579.jpg

Master bathroom 03 photo DSC_0584.jpg

Master bathroom 05 photo DSC_0589.jpg

Again, we are loving our bathroom. I am really surprised to say this, but this small bathroom is the perfect size for the two of us (keep in mind it is a rare occasion that we are getting ready in the bathroom at the same time as I have a makeup/vanity in the bedroom).

I am so grateful to all the helpful GWer's who provided inspiration, advice, and support to me during the planning and execution of this project. Thank you!

Already started planning our hall/guest bath reno. A lovely 1970's harvest gold version of the spin art tile you saw in our master bath before pictures :-)

Here are the details for those of you interested:

Calacatta Gold marble countertop
Calacatta Gold marble polished 12x12 floor tile
Calacatta Gold long octagon polished mosaic tile
Shower sills & threshold: White marble (Lowes)
White subway tile: Non-brand purchased at local store (Floors USA)
White chair rail tile: Jeffery Court Alegro White Crown 2”x12” (Home Depot)
Fixtures: Newport Brass Victoria in polished chrome
Rain showerhead: Moen Waterhill in polished chrome
Train Rack: Restoration Hardware Lugarno in polished chrome
Toilet: Kohler Memoirs
Sink: Kohler Caxton (smallest size)
Vanity: Ultracraft cabinets
Sconces: Hudson Valley Newport
Venetian Mirror: Ebay
Toilet paper holder, accessories: Homegoods
Wall Paint: Benjamin Moore - Edgecomb Grey
Trim Paint: Benjamin Moore - Chantilly Lace
Other: Hydroban waterproofing and drain, Heated flooring, Ditra membrane

This post was edited by firsthome on Sun, Mar 16, 14 at 13:48

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clipped on: 04.07.2014 at 12:18 am    last updated on: 04.07.2014 at 12:18 am

RE: I need all the help I can get (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: mrs_tlc on 07.30.2011 at 11:15 am in Florida Gardening Forum

Hi Mark. Welcome. This will be my third season growing edibles and everyone here has been very helpful. One of the very important things I learned at a class at our local extension was to wait until the first or second week of Oct. to plant, but I am in Lee County so I think we are much warmer. Another great tip was to plant tomatoes at the level of the first true leaf (so the "set leaf" will actually be underground). I did this last season and my tomatoes went nuclear!!!!

Last year there was a great thread on this forum with lots of helpful tips. I've attached a link here.

Also, here is a recipe that I got from ECHO

CORNELL PREVENTIVE INSECTICIDE/FUNGICIDE

Mix the following ingredients in a one gallon or greater sprayer. Shake well before applying:

Ingredients:

5 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon baking soda
4 tablespoons safers soap OR 2 teaspoons liquid dish soap (such as Ivory, Joy, etc. but NOT Dawn)
1 gallon water
mix well

Comments: This spray is not effective for insect eggs, thus weekly use for newly hatched insects. NOTE the change in the unit of measure for the soaps. Dawn has a chemical that can remove the thin waxy coat of leaves and is not recommended for use. Safers Soap is more expensive than ordinary dish soaps. This spray formula looks mild but will kill the very young plant shoots when used in the heat of day.

Here is a link that might be useful: Lets Share Some Knowledge

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clipped on: 07.31.2011 at 09:00 am    last updated on: 07.31.2011 at 09:00 am

RE: Green Sand (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: loufloralcityz9 on 07.13.2011 at 01:57 pm in Florida Gardening Forum

tampasteve,

Go to your local Walmart and buy the big PURPLE bag of pine mulch. Make sure you buy the PURPLE colored bag, as it has the smallest pieces of pine bark.
When you mix your potting soils use this 5-1-1 formula;

This is for each 5 gallon pot(which is actually 4 gallon size).

5 parts pine mulch
1 part Miracle Grow potting soil
1 part Black Kow cow manure

To each 5 gallon mixture add;
1 heaping tablespoon of Dolomite
1 heaping tablespoon of Greensand
Mix well and plant your veggie.

This makes a less expensive type of 'Mels mix' growing soil that has worked well for all of us.

My pepper plants are still making sweet peppers even in this hellish mid 90's heat,

Lou

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clipped on: 07.13.2011 at 04:46 pm    last updated on: 07.13.2011 at 04:46 pm

New bathroom almost done

posted by: sweeby on 02.28.2009 at 12:43 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Thought I'd post some pictures of our 99%-complete new bath. As you can see, the bedroom beyond isn't done yet, and there's no door yet, but the bath itself is about done - Yay!

Paint - Ellen Kennon Gustavian Grey
Vanity - Medallion in Knotty Alder wood, Walnut stain
Sink & Toilet - Toto Baldwin/Clayton
Faucets - Husdon Reed
Field Tile - Emser Classica in cream
Accent Tile - Walker Zanger Mizu
Floor - Walker Zanger 'White Cloud' marble, honed.
Countertop - Walker Zanger 'White Cloud' marble, polished.
Wall Sconces - Can't remember!
Fixtures - Kohler Bancroft

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clipped on: 06.28.2011 at 01:47 pm    last updated on: 06.28.2011 at 01:48 pm

RE: DIY paneled fridge--is this okay to do? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: thecabinetmaker on 11.23.2009 at 03:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

That's odd. I thought I posted a second post when I realize I forgot to mention how to attach. Getting old sucks!

We use liquid nail. The panels are liquid nailed on then we wrap the panels & fridge with 3 or 4 ratcheting straps to hold the panels secure till the liquid nail sets up. Just remember that if you are using pulls that require a machine screw to be tightened from behind the panel, to use some sort of liquid lock on the screw so it doesn't loosen up over time. Once the panels are secured, you aren't getting them off without destroying the wood panel. That would be the only downside to this particular method.

-Alan

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clipped on: 12.31.2009 at 02:49 pm    last updated on: 12.31.2009 at 02:49 pm

RE: DIY paneled fridge--is this okay to do? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: thecabinetmaker on 11.20.2009 at 01:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

It's a little tricky. We mill down material to 3/8 thick and screw it to the face panel. I felt 1/2 was too thick & bulky and 1/4" too thin to hold up over the years. The top of the drawer I used 1/4". The 1/4" isn't a problem on the top because it is supported by the top of the refrigerator drawer, and thus the top is glued to the top of the drawer acting as one piece. The reason you don't want to do this for the sides is because you want the width of the panel to be slightly wider than the width of the refrigerator door to allow for expansion and contracion. In otherwords, on the side of the panels I have a slight gap between the wood & the refrigerator door/drawer. Here are a few close ups:


Here is what a side by side looks like open. Since there is no space between the doors, you cannot put wood on the inside surface. It's never bothered me or any of my customers, but it shows you how the top of the panel is taller than the door to allow for the hinge.


The only tricky thing is that you need a couple small notches for the hinge assembly when you open the door. I usually have to trial and error it 3 or 4 times to get the notch big enough, but not too big.


Here is a close up of the fit for the side by side. The wood panels actually fit better than the steel doors.


Here is a close up of the side construction. you can see where I plugged the screw hole, and rabbited out the side to accept the thin top piece, but support it at the same time.


Close up of the drawer fit. Over the years it rubs a tiny little bit when you open the drawer, but not enough that most people even notice.

HTH, -Alan

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clipped on: 12.31.2009 at 02:49 pm    last updated on: 12.31.2009 at 02:49 pm

RE: DIY paneled fridge--is this okay to do? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: thecabinetmaker on 11.20.2009 at 05:56 am in Kitchens Forum

Here are a couple more. Not the best pics in the world, but you get the idea. In my 2 refrigerators above, I used aftermarket pulls, In the oak bank pictured below we used Kitchenaid's regular pulls. We just removed them from the door, and applied them to the panels. The last photo below the customer found he could open the door fine without a pull, and choose not to have any. The options are endless.


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clipped on: 12.31.2009 at 02:48 pm    last updated on: 12.31.2009 at 02:49 pm

RE: DIY paneled fridge--is this okay to do? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: thecabinetmaker on 11.19.2009 at 06:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

Every fridge made in the last 10 years has a fan that blows over the coils, and thus the forced ventilation removes all doubt about ventilation requirements. The only thing it may do is reduce the effieciency of the system, but I can't find that it has made much difference.

I've done this to dozens of refrigerators with no ill effects. Longest in service is in an apartment of mine since 1985. Second longest would be one that I did for a customer who didn't want to change frideges in his new kitchen so we paneled his 15 year old fridge 8 years ago. I talk to him regularly and it's still going strong.

I'll post more pictures tomorrow.

-Alan

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clipped on: 12.31.2009 at 02:48 pm    last updated on: 12.31.2009 at 02:48 pm

RE: I love my prep sink! (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: morton5 on 12.13.2008 at 09:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

Budgeteer, here is a pic of the cabinet innards:
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Each pullout is a deep drawer, with a cabinet door affixed to the front. The wood divider in the center is screwed to the bottom of the cab, and a drawer glide is attached to each side. The other drawer glides are attached to the sides of the cab (so there are 2 glides per pullout, just like a regular drawer). My cabs are frameless (Ikea). You can see that my carpenter had to jigsaw out a bit of the divider to allow the plumbing to fit. He also had to clip the back corner of the right drawer to allow room for the disposal cord. Key to getting this arrangement to work was having the plumbing waste pipe placed as far back in the cabinet as possible. Also, you must have a single bowl sink. There is about 3" of dead space behind each drawer, so that is where the plumbing waste and supply pipes and Never MT are. I still had room for soft close on the left pullout, but not on the right (waste pipe interfered slightly). The 8-gallon trash cans I use are about 3" narrower than the width of the pullout, so that they can clear the disposal. Surprisingly, I don't find that they move around-- the pullout operates smoothly. It is really great having both trash and recycling right by my prep sink.

Jnjmom, the granite is Madura Gold. I absolutely love it, which kind of surprises me because I did not consider myself a granite lover when I embarked on this project. An extra bonus is it really hides dirt-- though that can be a problem, too!

Owls4me, thanks for your compliment about the floor, we had the floors patched and refinished as part of the remodel. We used Minwax golden oak stain and 3 coats of oil-based poly. They were prefinished unstained floors before, and they look so much better now that they are stained. I love the color, the grain is really enhanced, and color and grain together are very kid-friendly and easy to keep good-looking. As for sink placement, I placed the sink off-center for several reasons. Most importantly, I wanted a large span of uninterrupted work space. Another factor was that my range wall is not symmetrical, so a centered sink would have highlighted the lack of symmetry. Finally, I have two seats opposite the prep area at the left end of the island in the photo below; I did not want to reach over a sink to serve diners. The paint job should be finished this week, and then I'll post more pics.
HTH, and good luck!
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clipped on: 09.11.2009 at 11:17 am    last updated on: 12.14.2009 at 11:08 am

I love my prep sink!

posted by: morton5 on 12.13.2008 at 10:57 am in Kitchens Forum

Forgive me for bragging, but I love my prep sink. It is close to my refrigerator, range, and ovens, and has 66 inches of counter space and two drawer stacks beside it:
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What makes it really special, though, is how much my GC was able to fit into a 30" sink base for me. I have a 16x21x10 zero radius sink, a compact disposal with airswitch, a Never MT, and two 8-gallon trash pullouts. The trash cans (Ikea) come with a dividing mechanism, so when warm weather returns I can separate my non-recyclable trash into compost stuff and dump stuff. We were able to do all this with just millimeters to spare, but we did it! The trash pullout set-up is a modification I learned from Ikeafans.
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The only sacrifice I had to make was that we had to flip the orientation of the zero-radius sink in order to fit the plumbing in the space between the trash cans. But I have grown to like it this way (water hits the drain better), and wish I had turned around my main sink, too. My GC is my hero!
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clipped on: 09.11.2009 at 11:17 am    last updated on: 12.14.2009 at 11:05 am

RE: Ikea butcherblock - how to get that great orangey red color? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: circuspeanut on 12.10.2009 at 10:50 am in Kitchens Forum

Mix a bit of an aniline dye (nontoxic, and has no smell like regular solvent-based wood stains) in with the first coat of Waterlox. I use these dyes regularly for matching wood colors in my old house, and love them. They are totally inert and won't affect the Waterlox consistency like other wood dyes -- they're like food color for wood, Carla! ;-)
Alternately, you can mix them with plain water for a first color wash before Waterloxing, in order to bring out the grain - just sand gently with 220 sandpaper to get the raised nubs off before using the Waterlox.

You can get Transtint in all sorts of colors including a Medium Brown or Dark Vintage Maple that might achieve the color you want. I think you're going to have to experiment a bit first, no matter what you do. Have fun!

Here is a link that might be useful: Transtint dyes

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clipped on: 12.10.2009 at 07:41 pm    last updated on: 12.10.2009 at 07:42 pm

Dark Numerar Countertop from IKEA

posted by: reshal on 08.10.2009 at 10:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are photos of one of a Numerar countertop we bought at Ikea. I stained it with the same stain as my floors and finished it with Waterlox satin. Grand total approx. $215 for wood and Waterlox. This is to the left of my refrigerator, I did another one with a sink for the right of my fridge. Just thought someone out there in GW land might be thinking how a dark stain would look on the inexpensive IKEA wood beech countertop...

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clipped on: 09.01.2009 at 07:23 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2009 at 07:23 pm

RE: How big is your single sink? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: rubyfig on 07.18.2009 at 06:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

I bought mine from the seller sinkandfaucetxpress on ebay (I used the make offer feature and I think it came to about $250 with shipping, but without the grid--he didn't have that at the time, but I bought one later). I really like it.

Here is a link that might be useful: sinkandfaucetxpress

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clipped on: 07.19.2009 at 10:51 am    last updated on: 07.19.2009 at 10:51 am

Marble poultice

posted by: jaedwards on 05.01.2008 at 02:03 am in Kitchens Forum

I'm trying to get a stain out of my 50+ year old marble window sill. I know I saw the recipe here a while ago and I did a search, but can't find it. Did anyone save it? I did try letting corn starch sit on it overnight. It is polished carrara if it matters. Thanks!

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clipped on: 05.26.2008 at 08:26 pm    last updated on: 05.26.2008 at 08:26 pm

Appliances for Tiny Kitchen

posted by: shoshanadh on 12.17.2007 at 06:13 am in Appliances Forum

It's decision time for appliances for my tiny (5'5"x8'6") kitchen. I was hoping for all 24" W appliances but find few choices in 24" induction cooktops (there is only electric cooking in the building). Is it OK to put a 30" cooktop over a 24" wall oven? I'm thinking of KitchenAid for both. The KA oven has the most capacity of any in that size. But does getting a 30" cooktop dictate the size of the cabinet I have to get for the oven below? I don't want to give up cabinet space if I don't have to.Does anyone have experience with either of these two appliances?

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clipped on: 05.23.2008 at 12:01 am    last updated on: 05.23.2008 at 12:01 am

comparison of faucet manufact.

posted by: sheilaaus122 on 03.02.2008 at 11:33 am in Kitchens Forum

For those of us (me) who are still trying to absorb all the nuances about faucets and other plumbing items, I googled away and stumbled on this very interesting site where they give a general review of the different compamies. They have many of the brands discussed here, but not all.

Here is a link that might be useful: comparison of faucet manufacturers

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clipped on: 05.18.2008 at 10:48 pm    last updated on: 05.18.2008 at 10:48 pm