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RE: When Do I Transplant Daylily Seedlings? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: xokientx on 08.27.2007 at 01:03 pm in Daylily Forum

Hi Nancy,

Not knowing what size cup the seedlings are planted in - as long as they appear to be growing well, green and increasing, then they are doing well and you don't have to transplant them immediately, IMO. I personally feel that trying to transplant in high heat will set them back more than waiting for a little while longer for cooler weather. I usually get a good growth spurt in the fall as things cool off. This is the ideal planting time I feel.

You could probably show your hubby how to water the seedlings. Just stress to use a gentle shower of water and give him a schedule. Most of us guys are trainable! ;0)

When you are ready to leave for CA, put a swatch of panty hose, nylon cloth or even cheese cloth over each pod and twist tie them on. The seeds will be contained and waiting when you return.

I shell my pods in the evening. Inspect the seeds for any empty or soft seeds and cull those. Let the seeds dry in an open cup overnight. Next day, I write the cross and date collected on a 2x3 ziploc bag and insert the seeds. I store them in the fridge till ready to sprout. I do have some stored for over a year in the fridge and they seem to be fine. I do like to store seeds for 4 weeks before sprouting. They seem to sprout more uniformly when I do.

If you add damp anything to the bags, you may have sprouted seeds when you return. I usually don't add anything, preferring to start the sprouting process when I want.
When I'm ready to start my seeds, I dump the starting mix in big tub and work it, adding water till its throughly moist, but not wet. Fill the flats, tamping the mix slightly into each pot. I put on average, four seeds into a 3 1/2 square pot about 1/2" deep. Firm the mix over the seeds and then gently water each flat. Down here, with 80% relative humidity+, I don't have a big problem with them drying out. But you might cover them or bag them to keep the moisture in. After a week, un-bag and you should have lots of sprouts!

Good luck,


clipped on: 08.28.2007 at 12:06 am    last updated on: 08.28.2007 at 12:07 am

RE: Replications: How Do I Get Them To Grow? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: xokientx on 08.06.2007 at 10:42 pm in Daylily Forum

Once the prolif starts, I don't think you need to apply any more BAP-10.

I have rooted proliferations in water, but in late summer it is so hot that the water sours so fast and the prolif then rots on you.

Here is how I start them in potting mix.

1. Try to cut them off before the scape goes completely brown.

2. Trim back the foliage, about like you do when shipping something bare-root.

3. Cut the scape off 1/2 inch or so above the prolif.

4. Cut the scape at a small angle about 3 inches below the prolif, so the bottom of the scape is a sharp chisel point

5. I use pro-mix; 2 parts to 1 part pine fines for starting mix. But anything with about 50% peat should do okay. I add 1 tablespoon of Nutricoat Total fertilizer/gallon mix. Mix should be slightly moist when ready to use.

6. Put some coarse stuff in the bottom of the pot, chopped up leaves, pine cones, branches, just so all the mix doesn't pour out the bottom holes and fill with mix. Pack it down a little and with a dibble, pencil or chopstick, make a hole for the scape. Gauge the angle needed to make the prolif set up straight.

7. Put some Rootone, rooting hormone on the bottom of the scape, carefully put it down in the hole and with the dibble, pencil or other, firm mix around the scape good. Then press the mix a little with your fingers to settle everything. The prolif should set just below soil level.

8. Water in good and set the plant in the shade for about 3-5 days. Don't water again during this period. After 3-5 days, move to morning sunlight. You should see new growth from the middle of the fan by this time. Water as needed. After a couple of weeks, you can move to full sun if it's not in the middle of summer!

Hope this helps,


clipped on: 08.06.2007 at 11:51 pm    last updated on: 08.07.2007 at 11:54 pm

RE: Collecting Pollen Techniques (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: bambi_too on 05.20.2007 at 09:56 am in Daylily Forum

since pictures speak better than words in this case.

to use it I just tap some in to the cap and dad, or use a toothpick, to apply pollen.


clipped on: 08.07.2007 at 03:16 pm    last updated on: 08.07.2007 at 03:16 pm

RE: Finding OLD forum posts (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: idaf on 07.28.2007 at 01:11 pm in Daylily Forum

This is the Archive page. A lot of pictures are no longer there, due to being moved by the poster, I suppose. Anyway there's enough here to keep you busy for awhile.Enjoy!

Here is a link that might be useful: Daylily Forum Archives


clipped on: 07.28.2007 at 06:12 pm    last updated on: 07.28.2007 at 06:13 pm

RE: lily seeds (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: weednsmile on 07.25.2007 at 03:23 pm in Daylily Forum

Gail and Larry,
I gather seed pods, soak the seeds for a week, then plant. For Dormant dayliliy seed , some prefer to put them in coin envelopes (Office Depot) with name and date on the envelope, put them in a zip lock plastic bag and wait 6 weeks. Don't seal them , just use scotch tape on the back... easier to open. Use Dixon Ticonderoga 1388-2/H B soft pencils (Office Depot)Don't expect other pencils to do as well as the Ticonderogas.(they are yellow) Throw away your sharpie pens ! They fade in the sun... Yes they do ! It takes awhile , but eventually you will have nothing to read ! lol I make my markers for seedlings with Venician blinds. (Wallmart...the longest ones you can find for less than $4.00.) That will give you several hundred plant markers.To fit them into the medicine bottles, I cut the blinds in 4 1/2 inch lengths and then cut them down the middle to make thiner labels. Cut one end so it looks like a stake with a sharp end. You can use your Ticonderoga pencil to write the cross of the seedling
on the label. Put your seed in an empty medicine bottle,(not the one for liquids, but the ones used for pills) bend your label but don't crease it. Put it in the bottle.Fill your bottle half way with cool tap water.
Add the top to save spills. Put in a shoe box or some storage box, cover with foil to keep it dark.
I soak them this way for about a week. (save your marker to put in your planting container.) Then drain each bottle as you are ready to plant that pod...I use a small strainer I got at Walmarts, and I use the small aluminum ( 3 x 6) loaf pans (also at Walmarts) for planting seeds from just one pod. Use a nail and poke holes in the bottom (three rows about an inch apart)
You can mix your own seed soil with equal parts of pearlite, vermiculite, and builder's white sand. Or you can buy Metromix seed starter. It comes in fairly large plastic bags.
Fill loaf pan up to 1/2 inch of top with your seed soil. With tweezers place your seeds in three rows, 1/2 apart. Cover seeds to the top of the loaf pan,with your seed mix, and press with your hand to firm mixture and seeds. Use a larger loaf pan (no holes in the bottom) as a means of watering from the bottom...never the top.
Do not let the water get deeper than the pan that the seeds are in. Let it come up only about 1/2 way on the sides of the seed pan. Add a drop of Dawn dish washing soap to the water before you start soaking. It only takes about 15 to 30 seconds to soak. You can use a large aluminum pan ( find them at Sams ) to put the individual loaf pans in so they don't drip on everything !
Try to water each day at about the same time. You can cover them with Saran wrap,or cover the large pan with saran wrap until the seeds begin to show.... Just don't let them dry out and don't keep them too wet. If they dry they will die, if they stay tooooooo wet they will turn to mush. If you have them inside morning sun is the best,but any kind of sun will help after they are planted.
When seedlings are about 1 inch tall start adding a diluted fertalizer..water soluable Miricle Grow . At first
use very week solution, and increase as leaves get larger. Until you are at the normal amount. Read directions on box. then increase each week. When they have a good extablished root system, sometime in Sept. You should be able to plant them outside in raised beds, or 2 gal black nursery pots. Use 1/2 compost and 1/2 small ground pinebark for planting mixture for outside.
Hope I haven't left out anything.. if so let me know.
If you get real serious with the seed planting, let me know and I will share our light stand that my husband built for our seeds. The commercial ones go from $500 to what ever ! This one can be built by just about anyone for less than $200. It is plastic , strong has 5 shelves and is deep and wide. You can put it on rollers, and add shop lights. YOu can get the shelf at Home Depot for $49. They have 2 sizes. We use the deeper shelf so it will hold the standard greenhouse tray .
Hope you can wade through all of this .. I am sure typo and spelling errors abound ! Wish I knew how to use spell check on this...would save some time... But it is gonna rain, and I have to get back outside to gather more seed...
Happy Daylily Daze !


clipped on: 07.25.2007 at 03:53 pm    last updated on: 07.25.2007 at 03:53 pm

Free Daylilies -- Postage Only

posted by: maximus7116 on 07.23.2007 at 09:57 am in Daylily Forum

I'm offering the following daylilies FREE -- you pay postage of $7 only. Limit five per person. First come, first served. If interested, please e-mail me with your top 7-8 choices. Delivery mid-August. Some of the fans may be small (I'm in Michigan, after all, and we've had very little rain). No rust. Pics of most can be seen through the link below.

STARTLE (probably TC, purchased from local nursery)
2 unknown Candies (probably Blueberry & Raspberry)

I'll update this post with anything left available.


Here is a link that might be useful: Photo Albums


clipped on: 07.23.2007 at 10:49 am    last updated on: 07.23.2007 at 10:51 am

RE: hello! intro, and question 'starting seeds' (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: sweatin_in_ga on 07.20.2007 at 09:33 pm in Daylily Forum

Hello Cole,
What you have asked is just about impossible to answer because everyone has some twist to how they successfully start daylily seeds. I'll tell you what I do in a minute. When I first got interested in growing from seed, one of the vendors sent me a sheet with what they do. It has worked for me. Others will tell you what they do. Choose the one that works best for you and your lifestyle. Some require more time than others. Some require specialized trays, etc. It seems to me that there are many, many ways to do it, not just a single way. So, here is what I do...

After allowing the seeds to warm to room temperature, I place them in a very weak hydrogen peroxide solution (one part household peroxide to 8-10 parts water). Many seeds will float, some will sink. The 'water' should be shallow. I've used clear or cloudy plastic drinking cups, but you can use anything as long as you can see the seeds. Yes, write on the cups with a marking pen so you know which cross is in which cup. Place the cups somewhere that is not is the sunlight but that does not get cold and then leave them alone - - that's the hard part. Each day, check to see if there is a white protrusion from the pointed end of the seed. This little nub might be stained a little brown, but that's OK. When you see that happen, you can plant the seed in a good quality potting mix (must drain well) just below the level of the soil. I use any little pot I have - - anything from 3-inch up to 6 inch. I have saved these little pots from buying annuals over the last few years. Again, mark the cross - - use any method you want - write on the pot, use a plant marker, whatever. Place where is gets some sun, but not where it will be too hot and dry out too quickly. Keep the soil moist - not wet - and wait for the shoot to emerge. Continue to keep the soil moist - not wet - and watch the plant grow. After a few weeks you can transplant to a seedling bed.

By the way, after a couple of days, it is best to pour off the 'old' water and add fresh. Don't want to breed bacteria. Yes, this method lets you watch every seed, but it will also make you put various crosses together in a rack as some seeds germinate faster than others - - some 2-3 days, some 2-3 weeks even in the same cross. If you have enough room and patience, you can eventually get them back together by cross before you plant them in the ground.

Here are some of the modifications I have heard to this method. (A) Don't use peroxide (B) Either do or don't use peroxide, but let the seeds soak a few hours or overnight, then plant the seeds from the same cross in one or more pots - 6-8 in a 6 inch pot, more in a larger pot. (C) Plant them in shallow trays with drainage holes in the bottom - again, as many as you can fit. Use a single row for each cross (D)Plant them directly into the soil. (E) Use a little "Ban Rot" to avoid damping off (a fungal disease resulting from too much moisture) (F) Put a layer of sand over the seed so that it will hold little moisture next to the seed. (F) When using 'community pots' or shallow trays, once the seedlings are a couple of inches tall, move them to larger spaces where they have more room to grow. I'm afraid I could go on and on with variations. There are also some totally different methods.

I suggest that you Google "growing daylilies from seed" and read several of the postings. Choose one or more methods and see which one works for you. The method I use is more time-consuming than many and some folk claim that it just doesn't work that well. Maybe so, but I had a 95% germination rate this year on about 150 seeds. I'm sure if I had 500 or 1000 seeds, this just wouldn't work that well. My problem now is that I am out of room, have 100 seedlings growing at my son's house, and have already harvested over 150 seeds that I really want to grow out next year!

Glad you have "lots of land." Once this hobby gets into your blood, you'll need that land.
Good Luck,


clipped on: 07.21.2007 at 05:17 pm    last updated on: 07.21.2007 at 05:17 pm