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RE: ASKO Washers & Dryers - Part 5 (Follow-Up #125)

posted by: sshrivastava on 05.14.2007 at 01:11 pm in Laundry Room Forum

I recently developed a weird leak in my 6761 washer, which is 4 years old. I had service come out, he checked all the hoses and could not find anything nor duplicate the problem -- he warranted the service call and said if it still leaks they'll come back out free of charge. Like clockwork, the first load after he left leaked again -- a small amount of water (1/4 cup at most) pools on the floor under the front left corner.

After taking off the top and front panels, running a few loads, and probing into the unit with a flash light, I finally found the culprit -- the large plastic assembly into which you insert the detergent drawer. This assembly is made of two plastic pieces glued together -- the top half, where the water comes in and is distributed through holes, and the bottom half which catches the water and holds the detergent drawer. Over time, the seam between these two plastic pieces warped along the left side, causing water to channel to the front of the assembly and down the metal frame of the washer to the floor. It would drip a little during each fill, and the accumulation after an entire cycle formed a small pool.

I took apart the assembly with three screws, bought some aquarium sealant at the pet store (100% clear silicone), and ran a bead of sealant along the entire length of the seam on both sides. No more leak.

I'm posting this in case anyone else experiences a similar issue.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 05.28.2007 at 01:14 pm    last updated on: 05.28.2007 at 01:14 pm

RE: What should I use on my butcher block oil-wise? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: pirula on 05.07.2007 at 03:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's the look of tung oil on American Cherry. It's completely food safe andn water beads on it, no rings, no stains from anything. Fabulous. I used citrus solvent with it to keep it absolutely food safe. Waterlox has solvents which are not food safe when they go on, but supposedly evaporate away. We used Waterlox on our floors, it's great stuff. But didn't use it on the counters.

The tung oil was a very matte finish until we started using the counters and then then the regular use gave them this beautiful sheen.

Ivette

Here is a link that might be useful: Tung oiled counters

NOTES:

Ask Mark
clipped on: 05.08.2007 at 11:23 am    last updated on: 05.08.2007 at 11:24 am

RE: Support for Soapstone Overhangs (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: honeyb2 on 05.07.2007 at 05:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

I've been waiting for someone to ask this question because I made a compilation of words and pix from patti823, cloud_swift, patches123 and julirs and myself. Here they are:
1. honeyb2
You can get a metal fabricator to make metal bars for the counter to sit on. Then you don't need corbels. I have 2 for a 60 inch island. Flat bars work just as well as those shown here and are less visible from below. They are screwed in to the inside of the cabinet frame on the front of the island (right side of picture) and set into notches on the back side of the island where the granite overhang is.

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2. patches123 said....

We did the set up like honeyb2, but used flat bars...but we found the steel at Home Depot...its in the metalworks section. It took awhile to sort through them and get the really thick ones. We got a metal boring bit and screwed the metal into the cabinet (which requires notching the cabinets). I think it was $25 total for the metal.

3. julirs said her supports look like this....
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4. cloud_swift said.....

Here are ours - they stick out for about 12" and our overhang is 15". The black things inset into the plywood in our pictures are flat metal bars - 2" wide. I can't remember how thick they are - maybe 1/4". Our fabricator wants plywood under the granite. From what I've seen on stoneadvice, some fabricators want plywood under only 2 cm, some want it under everything and some don't use it. If your fabricator puts plywood on the cabinet tops, I expect they would also have it go under the overhang. Plywood enough isn't enough support for the overhang because it can flex under load - that's why the overhang needs the steel bars.

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5. patti823 said...

I have a 12 " overhang on my island, which has cabinets on the other side. My GC built the island with 2x4's and then drywalled it. I have 3 L brackets screwed into the drywall(there will be wood panels over that), and the fabricator then epoxied/siliconed the granite to the top of the drywall and the top of the brackets. You can't see the brackets unless you look up underneath the bar. It worked out fine. Here's a pic so you can visualize it.

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HTH!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 05.08.2007 at 11:13 am    last updated on: 05.08.2007 at 11:14 am

RE: Biggest waste of money in your kitchen? (Follow-Up #64)

posted by: brownli on 04.05.2007 at 06:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

And to add to the step ladder saga, ours is similar to cat_mom's, purchased at Costco - overall height=32 1/2", adding 20" to height. We also store ours as cat_mom mentioned, in a shallow/wide space - not deep/narrow space.

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I'll need to qualify our biggest money waste - our chiller. We don't regret spending the money for 'a' chiller, it's just that 'this' chiller is too loud. So our waste was with 'this' chiller. We will be patient a bit longer, then search for a different model/brand, hoping it delivers chilled water as well as this one.

NOTES:

Ask Mark about doing the same thing as a less expensive alternative to the ladder system.
clipped on: 05.07.2007 at 09:57 am    last updated on: 05.07.2007 at 09:57 am