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RE: Calling all plaster wall repair experts! (Follow-Up #42)

posted by: brickeyee on 04.20.2010 at 01:39 pm in Home Repair Forum

Use Durabond for a base layer over the brick.

Be sire to moisten the brick enoough that it looks damp or it will dry out the Duran=bond before it can cure correctly.

A bonding agent like EucoWeld can help here.

If you cannot find a bonding agent Elmer's white glue cut about 50% with water can work.

After brushing it onto the brick let it dry enough to start getting thicker and tacky, then apply Durabond.

The Durabond should be about as thick as peanut butter.
Start with a layer about 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick.
If you go to thick the material may slump and pull away before it hardens.
Press it pretty hard against the brick so it grabs with no gaps.

After the Durabond hardens you can finish filling with Easysand if you want, or add more layers of Durabond.

Durabond is very hard and does not sand well, so make sure you do not have to much of it anywhere.
Another layer is a lot easier than trying to carve off material.

You can switch to Easysand for the final thin layers if you do not think you can work the Durabond well enough for a finished surface.

NOTES:

Last post in this clipped thread. note bonding agent.
clipped on: 02.01.2014 at 03:16 pm    last updated on: 02.01.2014 at 03:17 pm

RE: Calling all plaster wall repair experts! (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: brickeyee on 03.15.2005 at 01:44 pm in Home Repair Forum

I do not know about Canada, but multi-coat plaster is expensive throughout the US. Single coat veneer plaster is reasonable in some areas, and unheard of on others.
You can repair the plaster using setting type joint compound (Easysand and Durabond are two US brands). They are a modern form aof plaster and do not soften on exposure to water (or dissolve either). You can even mix fiberglass into them to make a base coat for a multi-layer plaster repair.
If you just want a good repair and do not have the time or money for plaster, replacing with drywall is liable to be a viable repair. If the plaster is over wood lath, stripping to the bare studs is typically required. New sections of wood can be sistered to the sides of the old studs to project out and create a flat plane for the drywall (this is a lot faster than trying to shim).

NOTES:

post below was first. note setting compounds.
clipped on: 02.01.2014 at 03:05 pm    last updated on: 02.01.2014 at 03:06 pm

RE: Calling all plaster wall repair experts! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: brickeyee on 10.25.2004 at 09:58 pm in Home Repair Forum

You can also repair a limited area by removing all the loose plaster, fastening a sheet of � inch drywall to the lath (assuming it is wood), and filing the rest of the area to flush with Easysand or Durabond. If you have some experience Durabond is stronger, but cannot be sanded (it is about as hard as old plaster). Easysand is not quite as strong (but still more than adequate) and can be sanded if you overfill. Neither material shrinks appreciably if mixed about as thick as peanut butter. You can also top coat the repair usbg regular pre-mixed drywall mud, and then wet sand to avoid filling the room with drywall dust if you cannot strike a smooth enough finish with a drywall knife.

I can install plaster from scratch, but generally perform repairs using drywall for fill and Durabond for top coating. A correctly done repair will be invisible after painted.

What is missing from the above instructions are the use of retarder to get more than about 10-15 minutes of working time, fiber for re-enforcement, the fact that you need 3 layers over wood lath for an effective repair (a fibered base coat, a rough scratch coat, and then a final finish coat) and that many of the items are only available in larger cities and in 50 pound bags.

NOTES:

for my ceiling cracks.
clipped on: 02.01.2014 at 02:58 pm    last updated on: 02.01.2014 at 02:59 pm

Stone Information and Advice (& Checklists)

posted by: buehl on 04.14.2008 at 02:56 am in Kitchens Forum

First off, I want to give a big thank-you to StoneGirl, Kevin, Joshua, Mimi, and others (past and current) on this forum who have given us many words of wisdom concerning stone countertops.

I've tried to compile everything I saved over the past 8 months that I've been on this Forum. Most of it was taken from a write-up by StoneGirl (Natural stone primer/granite 101); other threads and sources were used as well.

So...if the experts could review the information I've compiled below and send me comments (here or via email), I will talk to StarPooh about getting this on the FAQ.


Stone Information, Advice, and Checklists:

In an industry that has no set standards, there are many unscrupulous people trying to palm themselves off as fabricators. There are also a number of people with odd agendas trying to spread ill rumors about natural stone and propagate some very confusing and contradictory information. This is my small attempt at shedding a little light on the subject.

Slab Selection:

On the selection of the actual stone slabs - When you go to the slab yard to choose slabs for your kitchen, there are a few things you need to take note of:

  • Surface finish: The finish - be it polished, honed, flamed antiqued, or brushed, should be even. There should be no spots that have obvious machine marks, scratches, or other man made marks. You can judge by the crystal and vein pattern of the stone if the marks you see are man-made or naturally occurring. It is true that not all minerals will finish evenly and if you look at an angle on a polished slab with a larger crystal pattern, you can clearly see this. Tropic Brown would be a good example here. The black spots will not polish near as shiny as the brown ones and this will be very obvious on an unresined slab when looking at an acute angle against the light. The black specks will show as duller marks. The slab will feel smooth and appear shiny if seen from above, though. This effect will not be as pronounced on a resined slab.

    Bottom line when judging the quality of a surface finish: Look for unnatural appearing marks. If there are any on the face of the slab, it is not desirable. They might well be on the extreme edges, but this is normal and a result of the slab manufacturing process.


  • Mesh backing: Some slabs have a mesh backing. This was done at the plant where the slabs were finished. This backing adds support to brittle materials or materials with excessive veining or fissures. A number of exotic stones will have this. This does not necessarily make the material one of inferior quality, though. Quite often, these slabs will require special care in fabrication and transport, so be prepared for the fabricator to charge accordingly. If you are unsure about the slabs, ask your fabricator what his opinion of the material is.

  • Cracks and fissures: Yes - some slabs might have them. One could have quite the discussion on whether that line on the slab could be one or the other, so I'll try to explain it a little.

    • Fissures are naturally occurring features in stone. They will appear as little lines in the surface of the slabs (very visible in a material like Verde Peacock) and could even be of a different color than the majority of the stone (think of those crazed white lines sometimes appearing in Antique Brown). Sometimes they could be fused like in Antique Brown and other times they could be open, as is the case in the Verde Peacock example. They could often also go right through the body of the slab like in Crema Marfil, for instance. If you look at the light reflection across a fissure, you will never see a break - i.e., there will be no change in the plane on either side of a fissure.

    • A crack on the other hand is a problem... If you look at the slab at an oblique angle in the light, you will note the reflection of the shine on the surface of the stone. A crack will appear as a definite line through the reflection and the reflection will have a different appearance on either side of the line - there will be a break in the plane. Reject slabs like this. One could still work around fissures. Cracks are a whole other can of worms.

    • Resined slabs: The resin gets applied prior to the slabs being polished. Most of the resin then gets ground off in the polishing process. You should not be able to see just by looking at the surface of a slab whether it was resined or not. If you look at the rough sides of the slab, though, you will see some drippy shiny marks, almost like varnish drips. This should be the only indication that the slab is resined. There should never be a film or layer on the face of the stone. With extremely porous stones, the resining will alleviate, but not totally eliminate absorption issues and sealer could still be required. Lady's dream is an example. This material is always resined, but still absorbs liquids and requires sealer.

    • Test the material you have selected for absorption issues regardless - it is always best to know what your stone is capable of and to be prepared for any issues that might arise. Some stones indeed do not require sealer - be they resined or not. Baltic Brown would be an example here. It will not absorb one iota of anything, but it is still resined to eliminate a flaking issue.

Tests (especially for Absolute Black) (using a sample of YOUR slab):

  • To verify you have true AB and not dyed: Clean with denatured alcohol and rub marble polishing powder on the face. (Get denatured alcohol at Home Depot in the paint department)

  • Lemon Juice or better yet some Muratic Acid: will quickly show if the stone has alot of calcium content and will end up getting etched. This is usually chinese stone, not indian.

  • Acetone: The Dying usually is done on the same chinese stone. like the others said, acetone on a rag will reveal any dye that has been applied

  • Chips: Using something very hard & metal�hit the granite sharply & hard on edges to see if it chips, breaks, or cracks


Measuring:

  • Before the templaters get there...
    • Make sure you have a pretty good idea of your faucet layout--where you want the holes drilled for all the fixtures and do a test mock up to make sure you have accounted for sufficient clearances between each fixture.

    • Be sure you test your faucet for clearances not just between each fixture, but also between the faucet and the wall behind the faucet (if there is one). You need to be sure the handle will function properly.

    • Make sure that the cabinets are totally level (not out by more than 1/8") before the counter installers come in.

    • Check how close they should come to a stove and make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter.

    • Make sure they have the sink/faucet templates to work from.

    • Make sure have your garbage disposal air switch on hand or know the diameter

  • If you are not putting in a backsplash, tell them

  • Double check the template. Make sure that the measurements are reasonable. Measure the opening for the range.

  • Seam Placement: Yet another kettle of fish (or can of worms, depending on how you look at it, I guess!) Seam placement is ultimately at the discretion of the fabricator. I know it is not a really popular point of view, but that is just the way it is. There really is more to deciding where the seam would go than just the size of the slab or where the seam would look best in the kitchen.

    Most stone installations will have seams. They are unavoidable in medium or large sized kitchens. One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum. It seems that a good book could be written about seams, their quality, and their placement�and still you will have some information that will be omitted! For something as seemingly simple as joining two pieces of stone, seams have evolved into their own universe of complexity far beyond what anybody should have fair cause to expect!


  • Factors determining seam placement:

    • The slab: size, color, veining, structure (fissures, strength of the material an other characteristics of the stone)

    • Transport to the job site: Will the fabricated pieces fit on whatever vehicle and A-frames he has available

    • Access to the job site: Is the house on stilts? (common in coastal areas) How will the installers get the pieces to where they need to go? Will the tops fit in the service elevator if the apartment is on the 10th floor? Do the installers need to turn tight corners to get to the kitchen? There could be 101 factors that will influence seam placement here alone.

    • Placement and size of undermount (or other) cut-outs. Some fabricators like to put seams in undermount sinks, some do not. We, for instance will do it if absolutely necessary, and have done so with great success, but will not do so as general practice. We do like to put seams in the middle of drop-in appliances and cut-outs and this is a great choice for appearances and ease of installation.

    • Location of the cabinets: Do the pieces need to go in between tall cabinets with finished sides? Do the pieces need to slide in under appliance garages or other cabinetry? How far do the upper cabinets hang over? Is there enough clearance between the vent hood and other cabinets? Again the possibilities are endless and would depend on each individual kitchen lay-out and - ultimately -

    • Install-ability of the fabricated pieces: Will that odd angle hold up to being moved and turned around to get on the peninsula if there is no seam in it? Will the extra large sink cut-out stay intact if we hold the piece flat and at a 45 degree angle to slide it in between those two tall towers? Again, 1,001 combinations of cabinetry and material choices will come into play on this question.

    You can ask your fabricator to put a seam at a certain location and most likely he will oblige, but if he disagrees with you, it is not (always) out of spite or laziness. Check on your fabricator's seams by going to actual kitchens he has installed. Do not trust what you see in a showroom as sole testament to your fabricator's ability to do seams.

    With modern glues and seaming methods, a seam could successfully be put anywhere in an installation without compromising the strength or integrity of the stone. If a seam is done well, there is - in theory - no "wrong" location for it. A reputable fabricator will also try to keep the number of seams in any installation to a minimum. It is not acceptable, for instance to have a seam in each corner, or at each point where the counter changes direction, like on an angled peninsula.

    Long or unusually large pieces are often done if they can fit in the constraints of a slab. Slabs as a rule of thumb will average at about 110"x65". There are bigger slabs and quite often smaller ones too. Check with the fabricator or the slab yard. They will be more than happy to tell you the different sizes of slabs they have available. Note, though, that the larger the slabs, the smaller the selection of possible colors. Slab sizes would depend in part on the capabilities of the quarry, integrity of the material or the capabilities of the machinery at the finishing plant. We have had slabs as wide as 75" and as long as 130" before, but those are monsters and not always readily available.

  • Generally, it is not a good idea to seam over a DW because there's no support for the granite, and anything heavy placed at or near the seam would stress the stone, possibly breaking it.

  • Rodding is another issue where a tremendous amount of mis-information and scary stories exist: The main purpose for rodding stone would be to add integrity to the material around cut-outs. This is primarily for transport and installation and serves no real purpose once the stone is secured and fully supported on the cabinets. It would also depend on the material. A fabricator would be more likely to rod Ubatuba than he would Black Galaxy, for instance. The flaky and delicate materials prone to fissures would be prime candidates for rodding. Rodding is basically when a fabricator cuts slots in the back of the stone and embeds steel or fiberglass rods with epoxy in the slots in the stone. You will not see this from the top or front of the installation. This is an "insurance policy" created by the fabricator to make sure that the stone tops make it to your cabinets all in one piece

  • Edges: The more rounded an edge is, the more stable it would be. Sharp, flat edges are prone to chipping under the right (or rather wrong) circumstances. Demi or full bullnose edges would almost entirely eliminate this issue. A properly milled and polished edge will be stable and durable regardless of the profile, though. My guess at why ogee and stacked edges are not more prevalent would be purely because of cost considerations. Edge pricing is determined by the amount of work needed to create it. The more intricate edge profiles also require an exponentially larger skill set and more time to perfect. The ogee edge is a very elegant edge and can be used to great effect, but could easily look overdone if it is used everywhere. We often advise our clients to combine edges for greater impact - i.e., eased edge on all work surfaces, and ogee on the island to emphasize the cabinetry or unusual shape.
    Edge profiles are largely dependent on what you like and can afford. There is no real pro or con for regular or laminated edges. They all have their place in the design world. Check with your fabricator what their capabilities and pricing are. Look at actual kitchens and ask for references.


Installation:

  • Seams:
    One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum [StoneGirl]

    • A generic good quality seam should have the following characteristics:
      • It should be flat. According to the Marble Institute of America (MIA) a minimal amount of lippage is acceptable (1/32"), but conscientious fabricators all strive for a perfectly flat and smooth joint.

      • It should be narrow - as in smaller than 1/16". (I think the MIA stipulates no larger than 1/8", but that is pushing it - and only if the fabricator bevels the edges of the seam, almost similar to the edge of a stone tile. This is, thank goodness, not a standard practice any more!)

      • The color on either side of the seam should match as closely as possible. On regularly patterned stones like Ubatuba for example - there should be no variation. On stones with variation in colors or veins, the match should be made as close as was humanly possible.

      • Vein direction should flow. The MIA suggests a single direction of vein flow, but it is acceptable IF DISCUSSED WITH THE CLIENT to change vein direction on a seam if no other option is available. This would happen in book matched slabs - you will have a "butterfly" seam in this case. In other cases, the fabricator could put a miter seam in a corner and change vein direction 90 degrees. This is usually done with extremely linear veining like Bamboo Green, for example, but this is something that should be discussed with the fabricator and agreed upon by the client.

      • The seam on the finished edge of the stone should NOT dip in and create a divot in the edge. When you run your fingers over the edge, you should not be able to feel the location of the seam at all.

      • The thickness of the slabs on either side of the seam should be equal (or feathered out so that there is no discernible difference)

      • The glue in the seam should be of a color that matches the stone as closely as possible. Glue joints that are too light or too dark will show up something terrible. The idea behind tinting the glue is to try to make the seam "disappear" or something relatively close to it

  • Checklist:
    • Check the seams for evenness and smoothness.

      • Make sure that the seams are neat and clean.

      • Make sure that the seams are not obvious.

      • Make sure the seams are butted tight

      • Make sure that there are no scratches, pits, or cracks

    • If sealing is necessary (not all granites need to be sealed):

      • Make sure that the granite has been sealed

      • If more than one application of sealer was applied, ask how long they waited between applications

      • Ask which sealer has been used on the granite.

    • Make sure the sink reveal is consistent all the away around

    • Check the gap of the granite at the wall junctions.

    • Check for inconsistent overhangs from the counter edges

    • Check for chips. These can be filled.

    • Make sure the top drawers open & close

    • Make sure that you can open & close your dishwasher

    • Make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter

    • Make sure that you have the appropriate clearances for your appliances

    • Check the edge all around, a good edge should have the following characteristics:
      • Shine: The edge polish should match the top polish in depth and clarity. The edge should not be milky, dull, or waxy.

      • The edge should not have "waves". Eyeball along the edge. A good edge should have a mirror like reflection and be fairly flat. Waves that you can see or feel are not a good thing.

      • The aris (very top of the edge) should be crisp and straight, even on a bullnose edge. Once again you can see this by eyeballing along the very top end of the edge profile. A wavy, dippy aris is poor craftsmanship.

      • A good edge will have a consistent profile. It will not be larger in some spots or smaller in others.

      • A good edge should also have NO tooling lines. These will be fine lighter/white lines running along the edge. This is a mark of a poor edge polish, of a CNC machine that is not set correctly, and a lack of hand finishing. This is common when a company has only mechanical fabrication (i.e., CNC machines or line polishers) and no skilled hand fabricators to finish the work properly.

    • Run your hands around the entire laminated edge of yor counters to make sure they are smooth

    • Check surrounding walls & cabinets for damage

Miscellaneous Information:

  • More than all the above and below, though, is to be present for both the templating as well as having the templates placed on your slabs at the fabricator's
    If you canot be there, then have a lengthy conversation about seam placement, ways to match the movement, and ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seam

  • Find a fabricator who is a member of the SFA

  • When they polish your stone for you don't let them wax it. It will look terrible in 2 months when the wax wears off.

  • Don't use the Magic Eraser on granite--especially AB

  • Any slab with more fill (resin) than stone is certainly a no-no!!

  • When you do check for scratches, have overhead lighting shining down so scratches are easier to see

  • Don't let them do cutouts in place (granite dust becomes a major issue)

  • Granite dust can be a problem...some have heard of SS appliances & hoods damaged by the dust, others have heard of drawer glides being ruined by the dust

  • If you have wood floors--especially if you're in the process of staining or finishing them--make sure that they don't spill or drip granite sealer on the wood floors. Apparently the sealer interferes with the stain or finish process.

  • Suggested Prep for Installation:
    • Remove any drawers and pullouts beneath any sections that will be cut or drilled onsite, e.g., sink cutouts and/or faucet, soap dispenser, air gap, instant hot etc. holes, cooktop cutouts.

    • Then just cover the glides themselves with a few layers of blue painter's tape (or some combo of plastic wrap and tape)

    • If you make sure to cover the top of the glides and attach some of the tape to the cab wall as well (to form sort of a seal)and cover the rest of the glides completely with tape, you should be fine.

    • Usually the fabricators will have someone holding a vacuum hose right at the spot where they are drilling or cutting, so very little granite dust should be landing on the glides. What little dust escapes the vacuum will be blocked by the layer(s) of tape.

    • When done w/installation, remove the tape and use a DustBuster (or similar) on all the cabinets and glides

  • Countertop Support:

    • If your granite is 2 cm thick, then there can be no more then 6" of of unsupported span with a 5/8" subtop

    • If your granite is 3 cm thick, then there can be no more then 10" of unsupported span - no subtop required

    • If you need support, the to determine your corbel dimensions:

    • Thickness of Stone - Dimension of Unsupported Span = Corbel Dimensino

    • i.e., an 18" total overhang in 2 cm would require a 12" corbe; the same overhang in 3 cm would require an 8" corbel

NOTES:

COMPREHENSIVE!!!
clipped on: 11.12.2013 at 01:15 pm    last updated on: 11.12.2013 at 01:16 pm

RE: White Painted Shaker Cabinet Pricing Comparison (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: jakuvall on 05.13.2012 at 05:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

A few added after mailing daveinorlado I used the same multiplier that daveinorlado is using, not sure what Kompy is working with. I mention it because with that markup and the freight to NY I have Showplace at 898 (no promos) and Inset at 964

SCD=soft close drawers, full extension.
PGM=paint grade material or paint grade maple
5pc=matching doorstyle drawer front: Made with 5 pieces. Picture framed with center panel.
455 Brandom Durango standard overlay
471 TSG Artic White full overlay chinese (RTA) SCD- ply box
480 Wellborn Forest Jackson standard overlay
569 Wolf Classic Dartmouth full overlay SC drawers & SC doors ply box
570 River Run full overlay chinese (RTA) SCD - ply box
595 6 Square itasca painted vanilla full overlay chinese SCD- all ply
600 to 650 for Ikea Akurum (req. assembly-$55 per box?)
622 JSI Essex full overlay chinese (RTA) SCD- All ply box
623 Medallion Silverline Series: Lancaster Maple - Slab Drawer
628 Debut Estate Series: Oxford Maple -5pc Drawer - SCD
640 Aristokraft monroe MDF door (PGM) Particle board box
645 Kabinart arts and crafts maple SCD- all ply box
780 Bridgewood custom framed or frameless same price all ply box -SCD and SC doors
785 Brookhaven Bridgeport frameless, full overlay - SCD
786 Touchstone fully custom frameless melamine box solid maple door- SCD
790 Allwood Nantucket full overlay chinese - SC doors and drawers - all ply box.
809 KraftMaid: Atwater Maple - Slab - SCD
843 Shiloh: Shaker Inset (reverse raised panel shaker)-Slab
849 KraftMaid: Huntington Maple - 5pc - SCD
855 Touchstone fully custom full overlay or frameless all ply box -SCD- Paint Grade Maple meaning natural wood not MDF door (lower cost then natural maple used for stains)
862 Showplace: Pendleton Maple - slab
889 Medallion: Potter's Mill Maple - 5pc
925 Touchstone fully custom inset all ply box- SCD - paint grade maple
928 Holiday Estate Series - PGM - Slab -
1047 Embassy House/New River Mission Slab SCD
1125 Brookhaven Inset Rockport - SCD or not, same price
1204 Embassy House/New River, Mission, Slab- Inset SCD
1265 RichMaid (CWP?) Frameless Mission Slab- SCD
1239 Pennville Shakertown full overlay framed or frameless, all ply box, SCD
1335 RichMaid (CWP) Mission Mission Slab- FO or Inset SCD
1366 Plain & Fancy: Vogue Beaded Inset Soft Maple-Slab-SCD
1399 Mountaineer- slab -FO or inset SCD
1761 Saxton Frameless Whittaker NAUF SCD
1780 Pennville inset Shakertown, all ply box, SCD or not
1849 QCCI Frameless Whittaker SCD
1871 Woodmode Chatham full overlay, SCD
1957 QCCI FO Whittaker , Slab SCD
2057 QCCI inset Whittaker, Slab SCD
2241 Woodmode Inset - Sturbridge, SCD or not

NOTES:

This is a comparative price list to rank cabinets approximately on a general basis.
clipped on: 10.14.2013 at 03:38 pm    last updated on: 10.14.2013 at 03:40 pm

RE: I can't "give my house away" (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: weedyacres on 11.17.2012 at 04:19 pm in Buying and Selling Homes Forum

I've had lousy realtors in the past. I'm currently testing my hypothesis that a good one can make a difference, because we took our time selecting one this time around. I'd recommend that you get one of the local offices to print you a report from the MLS of YTD sales. Look at the top 20 or so, and work to find reasons you don't like them, to narrow down your list.

Some ways to do this:
1. View their online listings, and see what your impression is of how well they market with their photos, descriptions, etc. Poorly edited photos with clutter, misspellings in the listings, all point to lack of attention to detail, and you've got a higher price-point house, so you need someone to do a professional job. Cross them off.

2. Go to open houses and get a feel for how well they work for the sellers. Something that impressed me: a realtor that had drawings of the lot lines on a larger lot property, and was actively soliciting and answering questions. Things that turned me off: poorly-prepared substitutes who didn't know anything about the house, agents watching TV or heads down texting, houses that weren't ready for an open house (unmowed lawn, stacks of paper on the office floor, vacant house that was cold because the agent didn't get there a little early to turn on the heat). You want an agent that will go the extra mile to make sure it shows well.

3. Ask the agents for a list of the homes they've sold in the past year. Look for people that have sold houses like yours (either on the buy or the sell side). If their solds are all in a different part of town, or mostly foreclosures, they're probably not a good match for you. You want someone that understands the market for your price point and neighborhood.

4. Ask your appraiser to update the appraisal based just on new sold comps (no need to come re-measure or anything).

Then invite the smaller group in to interview. They will all have a marketing pitch about how they put it on 152 web sites and their agency is the biggest, etc. But to me that's not the important stuff. You want to know:

1. How would you price my house and why? I'm much more impressed by those that can give me a rationale than by those who use a dart board. If you've looked at your appraiser's comps, you can have an intelligent discussion about the numbers.

2. How will you market my house to other agents? Look for stuff that goes beyond the MLS and involves lots of one-on-one communication, follow-up, etc.

3. What changes do you suggest to make our home more appealing to buyers? You want someone who will give you constructive feedback, not tell you everything's rosy. If they can't find anything to improve, they're not looking closely enough.

4. Ask them some situational interview questions. I asked them to describe a difficult seller, a difficult buyer, and a difficult transaction where the parties weren't meeting to get a sense for how they dealt with and solved problems. Mr. Weedy's favorite question was "what would you say if a buyer (or his agent) said they didn't like X?" We wanted someone who quickly came up with an answer that eliminated the concern (e.g., "you could hire someone to change X for about $Y")

I also found it interesting to hear and consider different opinions, for example whether we should have an open house, an agents' open, whether to put flyers out or not, etc. Strong feelings on both sides of all those issues. I'm on the fence about whether it's good or bad to go with the super high performers (would they devote enough time to market my house?)

Through all the questions on their strategy, their knowledge of the market, etc., you'll get a good feel for whether you're on the same wavelength and whether you can communicate well with them.

Around here, DOM resets after being off for 60 days. Keep it off while you take time finding a better agent, and try again after the first of the year.

NOTES:

Note advice on how to select a realtor to sell your house.
clipped on: 09.01.2013 at 03:43 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2013 at 03:45 pm

RE: Finished IKEA kitchen: Tidaholm & soapstone (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: sw_in_austin on 02.06.2010 at 06:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

@junicb -- Indeed our carpenter built the bookshelf and the cart, based on an idea I showed him from a magazine. He was skeptical but it turned out great. The corners of the butcher block are routed out so the steel (which is just angle iron from a local welding shop that we wire-brushed clean and sealed with spray poly) would sit flush.

@remodelfla -- We did paint the toe kicks black. Our contractor said it would make them disappear, which it sort of does. I like that it also echoes the black elsewhere. The carpenters built 2x4 frames for the lower boxes to sit on, rather than using the IKEA leg system. I think it was to make certain that the soapstone was well-supported and to make sure the long run was level, given the inherent unevenness of our 65-year-old floors.

NOTES:

Entire thread is sw_in_A's finished kitchen post--this particular post re: base cabinet supports vis-a-vis stone counter & uneven floor is why I clipped it.
clipped on: 07.29.2013 at 06:34 pm    last updated on: 07.29.2013 at 06:37 pm

RE: What material do you use for tub surrounding walls? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: cat_mom on 01.31.2012 at 11:00 am in Bathrooms Forum

There are different methods/materials that are used for creating a "watertight" tub surround. We used Hardibacker for the tub walls (a type/brand of cement board), thinset (instead of joint compound) for "spackling", and Hydroban, a brush or roll-on waterproofing membrane. Or, you could use plastic (sheeting) between the studs and cement board, or Kerdi (a cloth-like membrane) over your cement board instead of Hydroban (or Redguard, which is another roll-on product). The important thing is to lay the groundwork first, before you tile and grout. They are only as good as what lies beneath them.

As an added measure, we used TEC XT grout, which is supposed to be more stain, crack, mildew resistant than other grouts, and caulked at changes of planes (niche shelves, where the tile meets the tub). We sealed the grout with a penetrating solvent-based sealer (only type to use with the XT grout). We used STT's SB sealer, which was easy to use and had minimal odor, as well.

We also are in the habit of using a daily shower spray, and wiping down the walls after showering. Probably overkill, but we lived with our really cruddy bathrooms for too long, and spent a lot of time, effort (and $!) to turn them into nice ones. We want them to remain nice for many years to come, so to us, the extra effort is worth it.

If your shower door is in really bad shape, you might want to consider a new one (esp if you are totally remodeling the room). There are baked in and sprayed on treatments available for the glass to help keep them looking nice and clear longer. Squeegeeing the doors after every shower helps, too.

NOTES:

Ideas for Barb's bathroom.
clipped on: 05.25.2013 at 07:01 pm    last updated on: 05.25.2013 at 07:02 pm

RE: Kitchen counter overhang for bar stools... how far? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: buehl on 07.11.2010 at 08:45 am in Kitchens Forum

First of all, the recommended seating overhang has nothing to do with counter material...it applies to granite, soapstone, quartz, wood, laminate, etc.

Second, you will need support for any material...for stone, follow the "6 & 10" rule.

For 2cm stone, any overhang > 6" will need support.
For 3cm stone, any overhang > 10" will need support.

So, for the recommended 15" overhang, you will need the following support:

  • 2cm stone: 15" - 6" = 9" of support
  • 3cm stone: 15" - 10" = 5" of support

    For a 12" overhang...you do need support...2" of it for 3cm stone & 6" for 2cm. Anyone who tells you differently is incorrect.

    Some people will skimp on overhang for a variety of reasons (most commonly b/c they're trying to squeeze in seating where there really isn't room or they're trying to avoid having to support it). However, skimping on overhang, while it may reduce or eliminate the need for support, will not make an inadequate space "work". People will take up the same amount of room regardless of the overhang you provide. The adult human body can "squeeze in" only so much. What happens is that people will still sit as far back, but now they have to lean in quite a bit further to reach the counter or they have to "straddle" the cabinets or they have to sit sideways. None of those is comfortable for any length of time. It may be OK if someone is just "perching" for a short period of time, but not for prolonged conversation & visiting or meals (even breakfast or lunch).

    Yes, people in general can adapt to or "make do" with just about anything (that's why people will sit sideways, straddle, etc.), but is that the goal of your remodel...to "make do"? If you're spending all this $$$$ on a remodel, I would think you would want to make it the best you can...first & foremost functionally and then aesthetically.

    So, don't skimp on overhang and plan for

  • adequate aisle widths,
  • adequate workspace in the primary Zones (Prep, Cooking, Cleanup),
  • adequate work and landing space around appliances (cooktop/range, refrigerator, oven(s), sink(s), DW, etc.), and
  • good workflow...Storage --> Prep Zone --> Cooking Zone --> Cleanup Zone w/minimum zone crossing/overlaps/conflicts.


    Good luck!

  • NOTES:

    Willoughby kitchen island countertop recommended overhang dimensions.
    clipped on: 05.17.2013 at 05:35 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2013 at 05:37 pm

    RE: What color counter with your natural cherry cabinets (Follow-Up #8)

    posted by: cloud_swift on 07.22.2009 at 11:49 am in Kitchens Forum

    There is some color variation in the Costa Esmerelda (and in many other stones). I really liked a sample of one green stone I saw, but the slabs had too much yellow for me. Green does look very good with the cherry and that is what we started out looking for but we came across a blue stone, Azul Do Mar, and chose that. It has a lot of movement so it may not be to your taste. Our stone also has some small dark reddish brown flecks that are like the color in the dark part of the cherry grain. The problem with the stones with a lot of blue is that they are usually expensive. We do like that our stone is bullet-proof - it is so easy to keep clean.

    Photobucket

    NOTES:

    Ideas for counters with natural cherry. One poster said she didn't see this one in FKB.
    clipped on: 05.05.2013 at 03:51 pm    last updated on: 05.05.2013 at 03:53 pm

    a few bread baking tips and the pizza dough recipe

    posted by: trailrunner on 12.27.2008 at 12:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Several Kitchen Forum members have moved into the area of bread baking with their new kitchens. This has been a most exciting turn of events. Some have baked bread in the past and are returning to the joy of baking and others have never baked bread and are just stepping into the wonderful world of baking.

    I am not an expert and am always exploring new ideas and trying new recipes and techniques. I have learned a lot from others and thought I would share a few things here. Some of these are brand new to me and since I have had such good luck with these tips I am passing them along .

    1) Classes of bread: bread doughs have different hydration % depending on what kind of dough it is. There are stiff, standard and rustic doughs. Some doughs are leaner and some are richer. Breads are leavened in different ways....starters, yeast, baking powder etc.

    2) Flour: all flour is NOT created equal. Every single brand of flour and type of flour has a different weight per cup. If it is sifted, it is fresh milled, whole wheat, rye...you get the picture. Get a very good digital scale. Weigh what you use and write it in the margins. I have started doing this and can tell a huge difference. I am slowly converting my recipes to weight. These are some broad ranges below. each brand of unbleached will vary ...even by a 1/4 c. When you get to know your bread recipe and feel of the dough you will be able to tell when enough is enough.

    unbleached 16oz= 3 1/2 c
    ww flour 16oz= 3 1/2 c
    stone ground ww flour 16 oz= 3 3/4 c

    3) yeast: another subject that has plenty of variations. There is instant, there is active dry, there is fresh and then wild that you grow yourself. Fresh does not keep well and most folks don't use it in home baking. I haven't seen it in a while in stores but you can get it . You will need to convert the recipe if you use fresh. I will address the other 2.

    instant- .25 oz= 2 1/4 tsp
    active dry - .25 oz= 2 1/2 tsp

    You might not think that is a big difference but it is. The less yeast you use , up to a point , the better. The pakgs. you buy in the store are not a Tbsp of yeast. Too much yeast...even that extra small amount makes the bread drier. Longer slower rises are better than rushing the yeast.

    Get a very good digital thermometer. Yeast likes 105 -115 degree water to start it in. I know you don't have to do your inst. yeast in separate water but I use active not inst so I always "proof" my yeast. I also always add a pinch of sugar. You can kill your yeast, you can also slow it to a crawl by having it too cool.

    4) sweetening: sugar and honey are not the same. There is a difference in fructose, sucrose,glucose,dextrose etc. Bread rises because yeast feeds on sugar and creates carbon dioxide and alcohol ( ethanol) .The ethanol evaporates and the carbon dixoide leavens or rises the bread. Us ONLY the amount of yeast that you need to get the job done. Too much and the dough rises quickly but it exhausts the available sugar and creates and alcohol aftertaste. As the yeast starves it turns on itself and creates a by product that tastes like ammonia.

    If you use honey , it is fructose and the yeast has to work harder to break it down. This is because granulated sugar ( this included brown sugar since it is granulated with molasses added) is very refined product and the yeast can use it more readily. Your bread will take longer to rise and may not rise as well if you sub all or part honey in a recipe. Also your liquid requirements will change. Just be aware of this.

    5) salt: and here you thought salt was just salt...nope. Kosher salt is hollow and big. Iodized salt has iodine added....so you won't get a goiter ( you can look it up if you don't know :) ) sea salt on and on. If a recipe says salt they mean regular Morton's table salt. Here is a quick chart to compare:

    table salt - .25 oz= 1 tsp
    Kosher salt- .25 oz- 1 3/4 tsp ( see what I mean ??)
    sea salt - .25 oz = 1 1/2 tsp.

    weigh your salt!

    Now for a big tip . I have just started doing this next procedure. DH has been doing it for a couple years in his bread bakin....hmm...well what can I say. I am a slow starter...maybe because I am such a honey :)

    When you are making your bread DO NOT add the salt at the beginning. Put it aside. So you don't forget it. You have to have salt. It helps regulate the rising but it also slows the initial yeast growth. So here is what you do. Put 1/2 your flour in the work bowl of the KA or in your mixing bowl. Add the fluids with the yeast . Stir it around till you have a wet shaggy mess. Cover it and leave it alone for the gluten to get started developing for 20 min. Come back and add the salt and the rest of the flour and carry on. It makes a huge difference. Some recipes call for this step but I now do it for all of my breads whether they call for it or not.

    Here are a couple sources for great bread baking info.

    Peter Reinhart- Bread Baker's Apprentice - this is a techinical book but has a ton of great pics and interesting info. You can get it used on Amazon. He also has a Blog so that is free.

    The Fresh Loaf- this is an amazing Blog. Everyone contributes advice and pictures and answers questions. It is all FREE. It is a WONDERFUL resource. They are really true bakers. I hope to grow up and be like them someday.

    Pizza Crust recipe- This is from a fantastic bread book that DH bought me years ago. Il Fornaio Baking Book, by Franco Galli. It is wonderful.

    I made 8x this basic recipe. When you start reading books like Peter's , you discover that the bakers use formulas. The yeast and water etc are a % of the flour weight. Here are those scales again. So that said when you double or triple a recipe you still need to increase the other ingred. in proportion.

    One 12" crust:

    1c unbleached flour
    2 tsp EVOO
    3/4 tsp active dry yeast ( remember if you use instant to use less)
    1/3 c + 1 Tbsp warm water ( 105)
    1/2 tsp salt ( remember they are not all the same)

    Put yeast in water with a tiny pinch of sugar . Leave 15 min. Put flour on countertop or if you are making a large batch as I did put it in the KA. Add the EVOO and mix it in. Add the yeast mix. and begin to stir it. Leave for 20 min. covered. Come back and add the salt and just enough more flour to make a very soft non sticky dough. This dough is heavenly and easy easy to knead. You do not want it too stiff at all. stop and start your hand kneading throughout the 20 min to let you and the dough rest. If using the machine you won't need 20 min and you don't need to stop. Let the dough rise in an oiled, covered bowl for 1 1/2 hrs. It really zooms up ! De gas the dough ( used to call it punching down now they are more gentle) and let it rise again 30 min. Shape into crusts by patting and pulling gently on a lightly floured board till it is 12". You can also roll out with a lightly floured rolling pin. Do not use too much flour or it will be tough. Use corn meal on your peel to keep from sticking for the transfer to the oven. I heated the stone for 45 min. at 500 degrees. make sure and poke a few holes in the crust with a fork as they sometimes bubble. I bake the crust for about 6 min then remove and cool . When you are ready to go on with the pizza party you get the stone hot again and then brush the crust with EVOO and place back on the stone to reheat and start the browning process...remove using the peel and top with all the goodies you want and return for about another 6-8 min. YUM !! If you are not making the crusts ahead then just brush with EVOO and poke a few times with a fork and bake them 6-8 min remove and top and then finish the baking. They will be so crisp and delicious.

    OK that is enough for now. Have fun and let me know where I messed up ...I tried to proof ( no pun) read as I went. c

    NOTES:

    Lots of good tips!!
    clipped on: 04.28.2013 at 05:52 pm    last updated on: 04.28.2013 at 05:53 pm

    What did you introduce to your GC that impressed them?

    posted by: cathy725 on 02.18.2013 at 09:37 am in Kitchens Forum

    I think this may be along the lines of favorite things in your kitchen.

    What had your GC never seen/installed before (and maybe tried to talk you out of) that after they saw it installed and in action did they love.

    Did they then encourage others to use the same item(s)?

    I'm tired of making decisions on pendants, DW's and faucets so thought this would be a great thread diversion. (And of course might give me new ideas too!)

    NOTES:

    Tons of great ideas!! See esp. the upper corner wall cab config.
    clipped on: 04.28.2013 at 04:44 pm    last updated on: 04.28.2013 at 04:46 pm

    RE: Early Research: Blue Star, Le Cornue, Lacanache, Wolf, CC. Et (Follow-Up #11)

    posted by: sierrahh on 11.28.2011 at 09:54 pm in Appliances Forum

    We've had the BlueStar Rangetop installed for about two months now. DH does most of the cooking and loves the six burners. He may have a stockpot on the simmer burner making broth, another pot on low flame for risotto, a saute pan carmelizing onions ready to throw into the main large saute pan on another burner, another steaming veggies and then, grate removed, the wok directly on the heat on the sixth burner. He should have been a juggler in the circus!

    I am trying to subtly train him to use the highest heat to do the job, which is usually less than the highest heat possible. Even so, the flame never goes around and up the sides of even our smallest pan, which happens to be All-Clad.

    In another week the BBQ will be just outside the kitchen door on the patio (being poured tomorrow). At 6400 ft elev there will be several feet of snow on the ground for four to five months of the year, but since the patio is covered he plans to grill out there year round.

    The big smile on his face as he cooks is priceless.

    Yes, the rangetop is big and beefy, but I like the look. No text on the front, just an attractive metal square with logo, a blue star with flame shape in the middle. Eyes light up when friends see it for the first time and real cooks comment immediately on the continuous grates that allow sliding of pans from one burner to the next.

    My DH has had no complaints at all about this rangetop. He simply beams when he cooks on it.

    Having no experience with any of the other brands, I can't comment on them.

    NOTES:

    Experience cooking on BlueStar rangetop
    clipped on: 01.10.2012 at 04:04 pm    last updated on: 01.10.2012 at 04:05 pm

    Cleaning oven door between glass

    posted by: SouthboundTrain on 09.17.2004 at 11:00 pm in Cleaning Tips Forum

    Help, please. I have a standard GE oven and somehow dark streaks of something have gotten inside the oven door, it looks like it's sort of between glass panels. Nothing in the oven directions speak to this. Has anyone else had this problem? It looks like I can unbolt the inside glass panel but I'm concerned about the insulation looking strip. Any advice would be most welcome. Oh, the self cleaning cycle has no affect. Thanks.

    NOTES:

    How to clean oven door between glass panels.
    clipped on: 10.30.2011 at 06:52 pm    last updated on: 10.30.2011 at 06:53 pm

    RE: Front Load Odor? Try AFFRESH (Follow-Up #55)

    posted by: jobird on 11.25.2007 at 10:39 am in Laundry Room Forum

    No problem for about a year by leaving the door open and occasionally cleaning the door seal;I do use Borax along with HE detergent.

    From the Owner's Manual:

    Care and Cleaning;page 8:

    "Leave the door open to allow the inside of the washer to dry out."

    CLEANING THE INTERIOR

    "Clean the interior of the washer periodically to remove any
    dirt, soil, odor, mold, mildew or bacteria residue that may
    remain in the washer as a result of washing clothes. We
    recommend taking the following steps every 60 to 120 days
    to clean and freshen your washer interior. The frequency
    with which the washer should be cleaned and freshened
    depends on factors such as usage, the amount of dirt, soil
    or bacteria being run through your washer, or the use of
    cold water. Failure to follow these instructions may result in unsatisfactory conditions, including unpleasant odor and/or permanent stains on the washer or washload."

    "To clean and freshen the washer interior:

    1. Make a solution of one cup chlorine bleach and
    two cups warm water. Be careful not to spill or
    splash the bleach solution.
    2. Wipe the lower portion of gray door seal with
    bleach solution and soft cloth.
    3. Fill the bleach dispenser with chlorine bleach.
    4. Run the washer through a complete cycle using
    hot water.
    5. Repeat the wash cycle if necessary.
    Hard water deposits may be removed, if needed using
    a recommended cleaner labeled clothes washer safe."

    Here is a link that might be useful: Maytag Neptune Washer user guide - PDF file

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 07.08.2011 at 02:42 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2011 at 02:42 pm

    RE: Got Pancakes?--Seeking C.I. Griddle for C.C. (Follow-Up #21)

    posted by: trevorlawson on 03.18.2011 at 08:32 pm in Appliances Forum

    Alex... We use the Chefs Designs in the cooking school, we have no complaints about this product at all....

    Start your Bluestar burners high then turn down to medium to maintain constant temprature.

    NOTES:

    lots of suggestions for griddle/grills
    clipped on: 03.20.2011 at 06:24 pm    last updated on: 03.20.2011 at 06:24 pm

    RE: Good house/kitchen blogs (Follow-Up #10)

    posted by: kathec on 03.17.2011 at 11:45 am in Kitchens Forum

    I find they're highly addictive. Beware, LOL! I'm afraid to add up all the time I've spent and hours of sleep lost reading blogs. Most blogs have a list of other blogs they follow or link to. Here's a list of ones I've become addicted to:
    Young House Love
    Honey We're Home
    The Inspired Room
    Thrifty Decor Chick
    Dreamy Whites
    Miss Mustard Seed
    My Uncommon Slice of Suburbia
    Fly Through Our Window
    Urban Grace Interiors (the blog)
    Isabella & Max Rooms
    Centsational Girl
    Rambling Renovators
    Sarah 101 - not a blog, but Sarah Richardson from HGTV has another new show. As far as I know, they don't show it in the US only in Canada, so I "follow" it online.
    Evolution of Style
    Gus and Lula
    Shine Your Light
    A Thoughtful Place
    Colour Me Happy

    These are just the ones I have saved on my Favorites bar. Seriously, is there a blog 12 step program?

    Kathe

    NOTES:

    Suggestions for blogs re kitchens & home remodels.
    clipped on: 03.18.2011 at 06:25 pm    last updated on: 03.18.2011 at 06:26 pm

    Glass Block Lights (Follow-Up #30)

    posted by: ringaroundtherosie on 11.17.2007 at 10:26 pm in Crafts and Decorations Forum

    Hi,

    It takes my husband about 15 minutes to drill a hole in each glass block. Since he just hands me a nice, clean block to create my art on, I didn't know the whole process for drilling a hole in the glass block. He's fine tuned it because he broke and cracked several before learning the following process. He said the most important thing to remember is to use the 1/2" Diamond Hole Saw Bit from Harbor Freight (cheap around $10), and the second most important thing is to take a piece of modeling clay, rub between hands to form a piece like a worm, and place around the area where the hole is to be drilled to form a "dam" in which you continually squirt water to keep the bit cool while drilling. Of course, you need to use a drill press with a drill press vice on it. Don't attempt to use a hand-held drill. You still should stop occasionally to allow the bit and glass block to cool. When the bit drills through the glass, you have to fish out the piece of glass in the block using a spring-loaded parts retriever and a very small pair of long needle-nosed pliers, and then rinse the block out with water several times to get ride of the sand residue and glass particles. Don't wait untilt he next day to do this or you will have a chalky film inside. If you want to remove the tacky substance on the edges of the block it can be removed by using a 3/8 inch hand held drill with a round wire brush attachment in the chuck. Hope this information is helpful to those who have not drilled holes in glass blocks before. Since he has used the above process, he has drilled several glass blocks with the same bit, and has not broken or cracked any of them!

    Rosie

    NOTES:

    More detail on drilling holes.
    clipped on: 03.06.2011 at 03:14 pm    last updated on: 03.06.2011 at 03:14 pm

    RE: Glass Block Lights (Follow-Up #23)

    posted by: munkos on 11.13.2007 at 03:04 pm in Crafts and Decorations Forum

    From what I read all over the web, and experienced (3 different bits later!) is this:

    Carbide tipped glass drill bits, don't do the trick. Ours made one tiny hole, and was done.

    Diamond hole saw bits are preferable. However, we don't have access to them here, we'd have to order online.

    We found a carbide ceramic tile hole saw, which worked wonders. Keep it wet and cool. Took less than 5 mins, with breaks, to get all the way through.

    Oil works, but we used a spray bottle of water, because we were afraid we wouldnt get all the oil out of the inside.

    Take breaks to let the bit cool down so it doesn't wear out too fast.

    If you use the carbide hole saw, you'll want a file, to smooth the edges, afterwards.

    NOTES:

    On thread about glass block lights--This is about how to drill holes in the blocks.
    clipped on: 03.06.2011 at 03:12 pm    last updated on: 03.06.2011 at 03:13 pm

    RE: Decorating with snow?? (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: my3dogs on 02.02.2011 at 08:59 am in Home Decorating Forum

    What a beautiful shot of your street! Christmas card worthy! This is my garden shed in my back yard in southern Maine.

    Photobucket

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 02.22.2011 at 07:36 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2011 at 07:37 pm

    RE: Lower corner cabinet in kitchen - any good ideas? (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: cocontom on 09.12.2009 at 09:53 pm in Organizing the Home Forum

    Have you looked into one of the blind corner units?

    Here is a link that might be useful: Lee Valley Blind Corner pull out

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 02.22.2011 at 06:50 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2011 at 06:50 pm

    RE: kitchen corner cabinet: lazy susan or magic corner pull-out? (Follow-Up #17)

    posted by: elizpiz on 01.11.2011 at 10:37 am in Kitchens Forum

    We have two Magic Corner units; for the sake of symmetry (because of sink placement in one corner) we went with the MC. We had a lazy susan in our old kitchen and I LOVED it - had really wanted to get super susans for the new kitchen.

    Having had both, if I had a choice, I would go with a super susan. I realise the OP can't go with that option, so I'd consider doing what we did: maximising the storage space of the MC units. It took me a while to convince our cabinetmaker that the Magic Corner units simply did not hold as much as a SS, so he came up with a brilliant idea - he made us custom wood shelves for the bottom of the Magic Corner unit.

    I'm probably not doing a good job of explaining this - so photos may help!

    View of Magic Corner with door open. Note tha bottom shelf is not metal, but custom

    The shelf from a closer angle. Note that the lower shelf is longer than the metal one, taking full advanatage of the cabinet space

    Another view

    The wood shelf is also wider than the shelves that came with the unit, so holds more. Even though I miss my susan, I do like this hybrid!

    Eliz

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 02.22.2011 at 06:48 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2011 at 06:48 pm

    RE: kitchen corner cabinet: lazy susan or magic corner pull-out? (Follow-Up #14)

    posted by: loves2cook4six on 01.09.2011 at 09:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

    This is one of mine. It's a Magic Corner II unit. The door is NOT attached to the unit. In fact the door opens one way, and the unit pulls out in the opposite direction.

    The first part comes out in one piece from the cabinet but the part that then comes into the opening has drawers which can be pulled out individually.

    Hafele Magic Corner II unit open

    Actually, we have two in separate corners. They use up all the space and nothing falls off. DH cut some masonite to cover the bottoms of the drawers so stuff wouldn't fall through.

    We've had them for over three years now and they still work perfectly. No issues with them at all

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 02.22.2011 at 06:45 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2011 at 06:45 pm

    RE: kitchen corner cabinet: lazy susan or magic corner pull-out? (Follow-Up #11)

    posted by: artemis78 on 01.08.2011 at 12:19 am in Kitchens Forum

    Here's ours, btw. (Our kitchen is---probably obviously!---not yet complete...) It was the first one our cabinetmaker had installed, and seems like he did a great job---though he did say he'd been called to fix a whole lot of these by other manufacturers (ours is the Hafele one at his recommendation, though we got the low-end drawers---not totally intentionally since that's what his supplier sent, but turns out they're way less expensive than the fancy ones, so I'm going to see if we like them first before ordering the others!) Haven't figured out how to mount the handle yet---had planned to center it, but then I discovered that the hardware is actually all attached to the left side, so a traditional handle actually makes sense...except that the hardware's in the way of the screws! Ugh.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 02.22.2011 at 06:41 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2011 at 06:44 pm

    RE: kitchen corner cabinet: lazy susan or magic corner pull-out? (Follow-Up #12)

    posted by: dandylandy on 01.09.2011 at 09:33 am in Kitchens Forum

    Thanks everyone, this is so-o-o-o helpful. We were just told the corner susan is out, b/c we will only have one door. The Le mans peanut-thingy looks fantastic, but our kitchen is so small (an apartment) that the cabinet maker thinks the door wouldn't open wide enough to make it useful. He is pushing the magic corner like Artemis78 has, b/c he thinks it is better if the door pulls out and gets out of the way. It opens less than 90 degrees to the left (b/c my range is there and the range handle sticks out) and it could open to the right, but that is the direction that the racks have to pull into the room, so the door would block the racks. :-( Wish he could have explained this earlier.

    Artemis78, please let us know asap how you like it if you start to put things in even before your kitchen is done!
    :-)

    NOTES:

    Look at Willoughby situation re this post.
    clipped on: 02.22.2011 at 06:41 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2011 at 06:42 pm