Clippings by willoughbyinCT

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RE: Kitchen counter overhang for bar stools... how far? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: buehl on 07.11.2010 at 08:45 am in Kitchens Forum

First of all, the recommended seating overhang has nothing to do with counter material...it applies to granite, soapstone, quartz, wood, laminate, etc.

Second, you will need support for any material...for stone, follow the "6 & 10" rule.

For 2cm stone, any overhang > 6" will need support.
For 3cm stone, any overhang > 10" will need support.

So, for the recommended 15" overhang, you will need the following support:

  • 2cm stone: 15" - 6" = 9" of support
  • 3cm stone: 15" - 10" = 5" of support

    For a 12" overhang...you do need support...2" of it for 3cm stone & 6" for 2cm. Anyone who tells you differently is incorrect.

    Some people will skimp on overhang for a variety of reasons (most commonly b/c they're trying to squeeze in seating where there really isn't room or they're trying to avoid having to support it). However, skimping on overhang, while it may reduce or eliminate the need for support, will not make an inadequate space "work". People will take up the same amount of room regardless of the overhang you provide. The adult human body can "squeeze in" only so much. What happens is that people will still sit as far back, but now they have to lean in quite a bit further to reach the counter or they have to "straddle" the cabinets or they have to sit sideways. None of those is comfortable for any length of time. It may be OK if someone is just "perching" for a short period of time, but not for prolonged conversation & visiting or meals (even breakfast or lunch).

    Yes, people in general can adapt to or "make do" with just about anything (that's why people will sit sideways, straddle, etc.), but is that the goal of your remodel...to "make do"? If you're spending all this $$$$ on a remodel, I would think you would want to make it the best you can...first & foremost functionally and then aesthetically.

    So, don't skimp on overhang and plan for

  • adequate aisle widths,
  • adequate workspace in the primary Zones (Prep, Cooking, Cleanup),
  • adequate work and landing space around appliances (cooktop/range, refrigerator, oven(s), sink(s), DW, etc.), and
  • good workflow...Storage --> Prep Zone --> Cooking Zone --> Cleanup Zone w/minimum zone crossing/overlaps/conflicts.


    Good luck!

  • NOTES:

    Willoughby kitchen island countertop recommended overhang dimensions.
    clipped on: 05.17.2013 at 05:35 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2013 at 05:37 pm

    RE: What color counter with your natural cherry cabinets (Follow-Up #8)

    posted by: cloud_swift on 07.22.2009 at 11:49 am in Kitchens Forum

    There is some color variation in the Costa Esmerelda (and in many other stones). I really liked a sample of one green stone I saw, but the slabs had too much yellow for me. Green does look very good with the cherry and that is what we started out looking for but we came across a blue stone, Azul Do Mar, and chose that. It has a lot of movement so it may not be to your taste. Our stone also has some small dark reddish brown flecks that are like the color in the dark part of the cherry grain. The problem with the stones with a lot of blue is that they are usually expensive. We do like that our stone is bullet-proof - it is so easy to keep clean.

    Photobucket

    NOTES:

    Ideas for counters with natural cherry. One poster said she didn't see this one in FKB.
    clipped on: 05.05.2013 at 03:51 pm    last updated on: 05.05.2013 at 03:53 pm

    a few bread baking tips and the pizza dough recipe

    posted by: trailrunner on 12.27.2008 at 12:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Several Kitchen Forum members have moved into the area of bread baking with their new kitchens. This has been a most exciting turn of events. Some have baked bread in the past and are returning to the joy of baking and others have never baked bread and are just stepping into the wonderful world of baking.

    I am not an expert and am always exploring new ideas and trying new recipes and techniques. I have learned a lot from others and thought I would share a few things here. Some of these are brand new to me and since I have had such good luck with these tips I am passing them along .

    1) Classes of bread: bread doughs have different hydration % depending on what kind of dough it is. There are stiff, standard and rustic doughs. Some doughs are leaner and some are richer. Breads are leavened in different ways....starters, yeast, baking powder etc.

    2) Flour: all flour is NOT created equal. Every single brand of flour and type of flour has a different weight per cup. If it is sifted, it is fresh milled, whole wheat, rye...you get the picture. Get a very good digital scale. Weigh what you use and write it in the margins. I have started doing this and can tell a huge difference. I am slowly converting my recipes to weight. These are some broad ranges below. each brand of unbleached will vary ...even by a 1/4 c. When you get to know your bread recipe and feel of the dough you will be able to tell when enough is enough.

    unbleached 16oz= 3 1/2 c
    ww flour 16oz= 3 1/2 c
    stone ground ww flour 16 oz= 3 3/4 c

    3) yeast: another subject that has plenty of variations. There is instant, there is active dry, there is fresh and then wild that you grow yourself. Fresh does not keep well and most folks don't use it in home baking. I haven't seen it in a while in stores but you can get it . You will need to convert the recipe if you use fresh. I will address the other 2.

    instant- .25 oz= 2 1/4 tsp
    active dry - .25 oz= 2 1/2 tsp

    You might not think that is a big difference but it is. The less yeast you use , up to a point , the better. The pakgs. you buy in the store are not a Tbsp of yeast. Too much yeast...even that extra small amount makes the bread drier. Longer slower rises are better than rushing the yeast.

    Get a very good digital thermometer. Yeast likes 105 -115 degree water to start it in. I know you don't have to do your inst. yeast in separate water but I use active not inst so I always "proof" my yeast. I also always add a pinch of sugar. You can kill your yeast, you can also slow it to a crawl by having it too cool.

    4) sweetening: sugar and honey are not the same. There is a difference in fructose, sucrose,glucose,dextrose etc. Bread rises because yeast feeds on sugar and creates carbon dioxide and alcohol ( ethanol) .The ethanol evaporates and the carbon dixoide leavens or rises the bread. Us ONLY the amount of yeast that you need to get the job done. Too much and the dough rises quickly but it exhausts the available sugar and creates and alcohol aftertaste. As the yeast starves it turns on itself and creates a by product that tastes like ammonia.

    If you use honey , it is fructose and the yeast has to work harder to break it down. This is because granulated sugar ( this included brown sugar since it is granulated with molasses added) is very refined product and the yeast can use it more readily. Your bread will take longer to rise and may not rise as well if you sub all or part honey in a recipe. Also your liquid requirements will change. Just be aware of this.

    5) salt: and here you thought salt was just salt...nope. Kosher salt is hollow and big. Iodized salt has iodine added....so you won't get a goiter ( you can look it up if you don't know :) ) sea salt on and on. If a recipe says salt they mean regular Morton's table salt. Here is a quick chart to compare:

    table salt - .25 oz= 1 tsp
    Kosher salt- .25 oz- 1 3/4 tsp ( see what I mean ??)
    sea salt - .25 oz = 1 1/2 tsp.

    weigh your salt!

    Now for a big tip . I have just started doing this next procedure. DH has been doing it for a couple years in his bread bakin....hmm...well what can I say. I am a slow starter...maybe because I am such a honey :)

    When you are making your bread DO NOT add the salt at the beginning. Put it aside. So you don't forget it. You have to have salt. It helps regulate the rising but it also slows the initial yeast growth. So here is what you do. Put 1/2 your flour in the work bowl of the KA or in your mixing bowl. Add the fluids with the yeast . Stir it around till you have a wet shaggy mess. Cover it and leave it alone for the gluten to get started developing for 20 min. Come back and add the salt and the rest of the flour and carry on. It makes a huge difference. Some recipes call for this step but I now do it for all of my breads whether they call for it or not.

    Here are a couple sources for great bread baking info.

    Peter Reinhart- Bread Baker's Apprentice - this is a techinical book but has a ton of great pics and interesting info. You can get it used on Amazon. He also has a Blog so that is free.

    The Fresh Loaf- this is an amazing Blog. Everyone contributes advice and pictures and answers questions. It is all FREE. It is a WONDERFUL resource. They are really true bakers. I hope to grow up and be like them someday.

    Pizza Crust recipe- This is from a fantastic bread book that DH bought me years ago. Il Fornaio Baking Book, by Franco Galli. It is wonderful.

    I made 8x this basic recipe. When you start reading books like Peter's , you discover that the bakers use formulas. The yeast and water etc are a % of the flour weight. Here are those scales again. So that said when you double or triple a recipe you still need to increase the other ingred. in proportion.

    One 12" crust:

    1c unbleached flour
    2 tsp EVOO
    3/4 tsp active dry yeast ( remember if you use instant to use less)
    1/3 c + 1 Tbsp warm water ( 105)
    1/2 tsp salt ( remember they are not all the same)

    Put yeast in water with a tiny pinch of sugar . Leave 15 min. Put flour on countertop or if you are making a large batch as I did put it in the KA. Add the EVOO and mix it in. Add the yeast mix. and begin to stir it. Leave for 20 min. covered. Come back and add the salt and just enough more flour to make a very soft non sticky dough. This dough is heavenly and easy easy to knead. You do not want it too stiff at all. stop and start your hand kneading throughout the 20 min to let you and the dough rest. If using the machine you won't need 20 min and you don't need to stop. Let the dough rise in an oiled, covered bowl for 1 1/2 hrs. It really zooms up ! De gas the dough ( used to call it punching down now they are more gentle) and let it rise again 30 min. Shape into crusts by patting and pulling gently on a lightly floured board till it is 12". You can also roll out with a lightly floured rolling pin. Do not use too much flour or it will be tough. Use corn meal on your peel to keep from sticking for the transfer to the oven. I heated the stone for 45 min. at 500 degrees. make sure and poke a few holes in the crust with a fork as they sometimes bubble. I bake the crust for about 6 min then remove and cool . When you are ready to go on with the pizza party you get the stone hot again and then brush the crust with EVOO and place back on the stone to reheat and start the browning process...remove using the peel and top with all the goodies you want and return for about another 6-8 min. YUM !! If you are not making the crusts ahead then just brush with EVOO and poke a few times with a fork and bake them 6-8 min remove and top and then finish the baking. They will be so crisp and delicious.

    OK that is enough for now. Have fun and let me know where I messed up ...I tried to proof ( no pun) read as I went. c

    NOTES:

    Lots of good tips!!
    clipped on: 04.28.2013 at 05:52 pm    last updated on: 04.28.2013 at 05:53 pm

    What did you introduce to your GC that impressed them?

    posted by: cathy725 on 02.18.2013 at 09:37 am in Kitchens Forum

    I think this may be along the lines of favorite things in your kitchen.

    What had your GC never seen/installed before (and maybe tried to talk you out of) that after they saw it installed and in action did they love.

    Did they then encourage others to use the same item(s)?

    I'm tired of making decisions on pendants, DW's and faucets so thought this would be a great thread diversion. (And of course might give me new ideas too!)

    NOTES:

    Tons of great ideas!! See esp. the upper corner wall cab config.
    clipped on: 04.28.2013 at 04:44 pm    last updated on: 04.28.2013 at 04:46 pm

    RE: Early Research: Blue Star, Le Cornue, Lacanache, Wolf, CC. Et (Follow-Up #11)

    posted by: sierrahh on 11.28.2011 at 09:54 pm in Appliances Forum

    We've had the BlueStar Rangetop installed for about two months now. DH does most of the cooking and loves the six burners. He may have a stockpot on the simmer burner making broth, another pot on low flame for risotto, a saute pan carmelizing onions ready to throw into the main large saute pan on another burner, another steaming veggies and then, grate removed, the wok directly on the heat on the sixth burner. He should have been a juggler in the circus!

    I am trying to subtly train him to use the highest heat to do the job, which is usually less than the highest heat possible. Even so, the flame never goes around and up the sides of even our smallest pan, which happens to be All-Clad.

    In another week the BBQ will be just outside the kitchen door on the patio (being poured tomorrow). At 6400 ft elev there will be several feet of snow on the ground for four to five months of the year, but since the patio is covered he plans to grill out there year round.

    The big smile on his face as he cooks is priceless.

    Yes, the rangetop is big and beefy, but I like the look. No text on the front, just an attractive metal square with logo, a blue star with flame shape in the middle. Eyes light up when friends see it for the first time and real cooks comment immediately on the continuous grates that allow sliding of pans from one burner to the next.

    My DH has had no complaints at all about this rangetop. He simply beams when he cooks on it.

    Having no experience with any of the other brands, I can't comment on them.

    NOTES:

    Experience cooking on BlueStar rangetop
    clipped on: 01.10.2012 at 04:04 pm    last updated on: 01.10.2012 at 04:05 pm

    Cleaning oven door between glass

    posted by: SouthboundTrain on 09.17.2004 at 11:00 pm in Cleaning Tips Forum

    Help, please. I have a standard GE oven and somehow dark streaks of something have gotten inside the oven door, it looks like it's sort of between glass panels. Nothing in the oven directions speak to this. Has anyone else had this problem? It looks like I can unbolt the inside glass panel but I'm concerned about the insulation looking strip. Any advice would be most welcome. Oh, the self cleaning cycle has no affect. Thanks.

    NOTES:

    How to clean oven door between glass panels.
    clipped on: 10.30.2011 at 06:52 pm    last updated on: 10.30.2011 at 06:53 pm

    RE: Front Load Odor? Try AFFRESH (Follow-Up #55)

    posted by: jobird on 11.25.2007 at 10:39 am in Laundry Room Forum

    No problem for about a year by leaving the door open and occasionally cleaning the door seal;I do use Borax along with HE detergent.

    From the Owner's Manual:

    Care and Cleaning;page 8:

    "Leave the door open to allow the inside of the washer to dry out."

    CLEANING THE INTERIOR

    "Clean the interior of the washer periodically to remove any
    dirt, soil, odor, mold, mildew or bacteria residue that may
    remain in the washer as a result of washing clothes. We
    recommend taking the following steps every 60 to 120 days
    to clean and freshen your washer interior. The frequency
    with which the washer should be cleaned and freshened
    depends on factors such as usage, the amount of dirt, soil
    or bacteria being run through your washer, or the use of
    cold water. Failure to follow these instructions may result in unsatisfactory conditions, including unpleasant odor and/or permanent stains on the washer or washload."

    "To clean and freshen the washer interior:

    1. Make a solution of one cup chlorine bleach and
    two cups warm water. Be careful not to spill or
    splash the bleach solution.
    2. Wipe the lower portion of gray door seal with
    bleach solution and soft cloth.
    3. Fill the bleach dispenser with chlorine bleach.
    4. Run the washer through a complete cycle using
    hot water.
    5. Repeat the wash cycle if necessary.
    Hard water deposits may be removed, if needed using
    a recommended cleaner labeled clothes washer safe."

    Here is a link that might be useful: Maytag Neptune Washer user guide - PDF file

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 07.08.2011 at 02:42 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2011 at 02:42 pm

    RE: Got Pancakes?--Seeking C.I. Griddle for C.C. (Follow-Up #21)

    posted by: trevorlawson on 03.18.2011 at 08:32 pm in Appliances Forum

    Alex... We use the Chefs Designs in the cooking school, we have no complaints about this product at all....

    Start your Bluestar burners high then turn down to medium to maintain constant temprature.

    NOTES:

    lots of suggestions for griddle/grills
    clipped on: 03.20.2011 at 06:24 pm    last updated on: 03.20.2011 at 06:24 pm

    RE: Good house/kitchen blogs (Follow-Up #10)

    posted by: kathec on 03.17.2011 at 11:45 am in Kitchens Forum

    I find they're highly addictive. Beware, LOL! I'm afraid to add up all the time I've spent and hours of sleep lost reading blogs. Most blogs have a list of other blogs they follow or link to. Here's a list of ones I've become addicted to:
    Young House Love
    Honey We're Home
    The Inspired Room
    Thrifty Decor Chick
    Dreamy Whites
    Miss Mustard Seed
    My Uncommon Slice of Suburbia
    Fly Through Our Window
    Urban Grace Interiors (the blog)
    Isabella & Max Rooms
    Centsational Girl
    Rambling Renovators
    Sarah 101 - not a blog, but Sarah Richardson from HGTV has another new show. As far as I know, they don't show it in the US only in Canada, so I "follow" it online.
    Evolution of Style
    Gus and Lula
    Shine Your Light
    A Thoughtful Place
    Colour Me Happy

    These are just the ones I have saved on my Favorites bar. Seriously, is there a blog 12 step program?

    Kathe

    NOTES:

    Suggestions for blogs re kitchens & home remodels.
    clipped on: 03.18.2011 at 06:25 pm    last updated on: 03.18.2011 at 06:26 pm

    Glass Block Lights (Follow-Up #30)

    posted by: ringaroundtherosie on 11.17.2007 at 10:26 pm in Crafts and Decorations Forum

    Hi,

    It takes my husband about 15 minutes to drill a hole in each glass block. Since he just hands me a nice, clean block to create my art on, I didn't know the whole process for drilling a hole in the glass block. He's fine tuned it because he broke and cracked several before learning the following process. He said the most important thing to remember is to use the 1/2" Diamond Hole Saw Bit from Harbor Freight (cheap around $10), and the second most important thing is to take a piece of modeling clay, rub between hands to form a piece like a worm, and place around the area where the hole is to be drilled to form a "dam" in which you continually squirt water to keep the bit cool while drilling. Of course, you need to use a drill press with a drill press vice on it. Don't attempt to use a hand-held drill. You still should stop occasionally to allow the bit and glass block to cool. When the bit drills through the glass, you have to fish out the piece of glass in the block using a spring-loaded parts retriever and a very small pair of long needle-nosed pliers, and then rinse the block out with water several times to get ride of the sand residue and glass particles. Don't wait untilt he next day to do this or you will have a chalky film inside. If you want to remove the tacky substance on the edges of the block it can be removed by using a 3/8 inch hand held drill with a round wire brush attachment in the chuck. Hope this information is helpful to those who have not drilled holes in glass blocks before. Since he has used the above process, he has drilled several glass blocks with the same bit, and has not broken or cracked any of them!

    Rosie

    NOTES:

    More detail on drilling holes.
    clipped on: 03.06.2011 at 03:14 pm    last updated on: 03.06.2011 at 03:14 pm

    RE: Glass Block Lights (Follow-Up #23)

    posted by: munkos on 11.13.2007 at 03:04 pm in Crafts and Decorations Forum

    From what I read all over the web, and experienced (3 different bits later!) is this:

    Carbide tipped glass drill bits, don't do the trick. Ours made one tiny hole, and was done.

    Diamond hole saw bits are preferable. However, we don't have access to them here, we'd have to order online.

    We found a carbide ceramic tile hole saw, which worked wonders. Keep it wet and cool. Took less than 5 mins, with breaks, to get all the way through.

    Oil works, but we used a spray bottle of water, because we were afraid we wouldnt get all the oil out of the inside.

    Take breaks to let the bit cool down so it doesn't wear out too fast.

    If you use the carbide hole saw, you'll want a file, to smooth the edges, afterwards.

    NOTES:

    On thread about glass block lights--This is about how to drill holes in the blocks.
    clipped on: 03.06.2011 at 03:12 pm    last updated on: 03.06.2011 at 03:13 pm

    RE: Decorating with snow?? (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: my3dogs on 02.02.2011 at 08:59 am in Home Decorating Forum

    What a beautiful shot of your street! Christmas card worthy! This is my garden shed in my back yard in southern Maine.

    Photobucket

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 02.22.2011 at 07:36 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2011 at 07:37 pm

    RE: Lower corner cabinet in kitchen - any good ideas? (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: cocontom on 09.12.2009 at 09:53 pm in Organizing the Home Forum

    Have you looked into one of the blind corner units?

    Here is a link that might be useful: Lee Valley Blind Corner pull out

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 02.22.2011 at 06:50 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2011 at 06:50 pm

    RE: kitchen corner cabinet: lazy susan or magic corner pull-out? (Follow-Up #17)

    posted by: elizpiz on 01.11.2011 at 10:37 am in Kitchens Forum

    We have two Magic Corner units; for the sake of symmetry (because of sink placement in one corner) we went with the MC. We had a lazy susan in our old kitchen and I LOVED it - had really wanted to get super susans for the new kitchen.

    Having had both, if I had a choice, I would go with a super susan. I realise the OP can't go with that option, so I'd consider doing what we did: maximising the storage space of the MC units. It took me a while to convince our cabinetmaker that the Magic Corner units simply did not hold as much as a SS, so he came up with a brilliant idea - he made us custom wood shelves for the bottom of the Magic Corner unit.

    I'm probably not doing a good job of explaining this - so photos may help!

    View of Magic Corner with door open. Note tha bottom shelf is not metal, but custom

    The shelf from a closer angle. Note that the lower shelf is longer than the metal one, taking full advanatage of the cabinet space

    Another view

    The wood shelf is also wider than the shelves that came with the unit, so holds more. Even though I miss my susan, I do like this hybrid!

    Eliz

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 02.22.2011 at 06:48 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2011 at 06:48 pm

    RE: kitchen corner cabinet: lazy susan or magic corner pull-out? (Follow-Up #14)

    posted by: loves2cook4six on 01.09.2011 at 09:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

    This is one of mine. It's a Magic Corner II unit. The door is NOT attached to the unit. In fact the door opens one way, and the unit pulls out in the opposite direction.

    The first part comes out in one piece from the cabinet but the part that then comes into the opening has drawers which can be pulled out individually.

    Hafele Magic Corner II unit open

    Actually, we have two in separate corners. They use up all the space and nothing falls off. DH cut some masonite to cover the bottoms of the drawers so stuff wouldn't fall through.

    We've had them for over three years now and they still work perfectly. No issues with them at all

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 02.22.2011 at 06:45 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2011 at 06:45 pm

    RE: kitchen corner cabinet: lazy susan or magic corner pull-out? (Follow-Up #11)

    posted by: artemis78 on 01.08.2011 at 12:19 am in Kitchens Forum

    Here's ours, btw. (Our kitchen is---probably obviously!---not yet complete...) It was the first one our cabinetmaker had installed, and seems like he did a great job---though he did say he'd been called to fix a whole lot of these by other manufacturers (ours is the Hafele one at his recommendation, though we got the low-end drawers---not totally intentionally since that's what his supplier sent, but turns out they're way less expensive than the fancy ones, so I'm going to see if we like them first before ordering the others!) Haven't figured out how to mount the handle yet---had planned to center it, but then I discovered that the hardware is actually all attached to the left side, so a traditional handle actually makes sense...except that the hardware's in the way of the screws! Ugh.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 02.22.2011 at 06:41 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2011 at 06:44 pm

    RE: kitchen corner cabinet: lazy susan or magic corner pull-out? (Follow-Up #12)

    posted by: dandylandy on 01.09.2011 at 09:33 am in Kitchens Forum

    Thanks everyone, this is so-o-o-o helpful. We were just told the corner susan is out, b/c we will only have one door. The Le mans peanut-thingy looks fantastic, but our kitchen is so small (an apartment) that the cabinet maker thinks the door wouldn't open wide enough to make it useful. He is pushing the magic corner like Artemis78 has, b/c he thinks it is better if the door pulls out and gets out of the way. It opens less than 90 degrees to the left (b/c my range is there and the range handle sticks out) and it could open to the right, but that is the direction that the racks have to pull into the room, so the door would block the racks. :-( Wish he could have explained this earlier.

    Artemis78, please let us know asap how you like it if you start to put things in even before your kitchen is done!
    :-)

    NOTES:

    Look at Willoughby situation re this post.
    clipped on: 02.22.2011 at 06:41 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2011 at 06:42 pm

     
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