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LED recessed cans guide for kitchen ...

posted by: davidtay on 01.30.2012 at 01:27 am in Lighting Forum

A collection of tips/ answers
Since kitchens have higher lighting requirements, I like to use 35 lumen per sq ft as a rule to compute the number of lights. If there are additional sources of light that will be used, the output (lumens not watts) from those sources can be deducted from the total.

Placement/ layout
1. Cans should be > 24 to 30 inches from the wall (on center). Most countertop spaces have upper cabinets (typically ~ 12" deep) + crown molding. The edge of the can may be spaced ~ 12" away from the edge of the crown molding (if present or cabinet if there is no crown molding) making the average distance between 26 to 30 inches.

2. Assuming the need for a fairly uniformly lit space @ 35 lumens per sq ft, the cans may have to be spaced closer together - between 3 - 4 ft apart (if all general lighting is provided by recessed lights). A fairly regular pattern is preferable to a random layout.

3. The actual layout of cans will be impacted by the location of ceiling joists, HVAC ducting, electrical wiring, plumbing, ceiling height, fire suppression sprinklers and other obstructions above the ceiling.

Dimming
The Cree LR6 series lamps do not dim as well as the later models (CR6, ...). ELV dimmers probably work better with LR6 than incandescent dimmers since the total load of the lights may not meet the minimum load requirement for the incandescent dimmer.

Dimmers such as the Lutron Diva CL dimmers work well. The max output is 95%.

Some Choices (in order of preference) and notes
Cree CR6 or ECO-575 (Home Depot branded CR6)
ECO4-575 (Home Depot branded Cree CR4 4" recessed light)
The above are only available in 2700k light color.

Cree LR6 series - including the LE6.

The Cree CR6 and LR6 lamps will not fit into 5" housings.

The standard LR6 behaves more like a surface mount than a recessed light as the LED emitters are close to the surface and the recess is shallow. Some may not like the amount of light spillage (standard LR6).

There is a higher output version of the LR6 that has a much deeper recess.

To prevent the Cree lamps from falling out, the 3 prongs have to be fully extended and a slight clockwise twist made when push installing. The slight clockwise twist will ensure that the prongs are fully extended.

The Cree lamps are currently the best available today (2012).

Sylvania RT-6, RT-4. The lights could be easier to install than Cree lamps as they utilize the torsion spring mechanism. However, the lights do not look as pleasant as the Cree lamps.

The Cree and Sylvania lamps do outperform 26W CFLs (and incandescents) in a standard recessed can in terms of light spread and output as the standard bulb in a can solution traps a significant amount of light. The Cree and Sylvania recessed lamp solutions referenced above have all the LED elements facing outwards so that the effective light output is higher.

The CRI (Color Rendition Index) of Cree and Sylvania recessed lamps > 80.

There is no warm up time required for Cree recessed lamps, unlike CFL light bulbs.

Most recessed lighting is used with flat ceilings. Sloped ceilings would require special solutions such as the LE6 or some other form of lighting (i.e. -non recessed lighting).

Some common objections to recessed can lights stem from
1. looks and performance of traditional can lights (standard bulb in a can)
2. swiss cheese effect from too many holes.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.15.2013 at 10:47 am    last updated on: 02.15.2013 at 10:47 am

RE: Layout Gurus, I need help! (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: buehl on 10.20.2012 at 06:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

I use MS PowerPoint. I found online graph paper, saved the image, and pasted it into a PowerPoint file/presentation. I then created templates for things like sinks, ranges with hoods, cooktops with hoods, refrigerators, etc...different sizes and configurations.

Now, when I work on a layout, I start with the template.

Here are some links for free graph paper:

http://www.printfreegraphpaper.com
http://incompetech.com/graphpaper
http://incompetech.com/graphpaper/plain
http://mathbits.com/MathBits/StudentResources/GraphPaper/GraphPaper.htm
http://donnayoung.org/math/graph-paper.htm
http://www.waterproofpaper.com/graph-paper/

I also linked to a thread below that I started over 4 years ago when others asked for help creating layouts.

Here is a link that might be useful: Thread: Modifying A Poster's Layout

NOTES:

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clipped on: 10.20.2012 at 09:43 pm    last updated on: 10.20.2012 at 09:43 pm

RE: Finally finished! Walnut, quartzite, idea kitchen with pics (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: vsalz on 01.04.2012 at 12:47 am in Kitchens Forum

You all are such fantastic cheerleaders. DH read the thread when he got home and commented that it must be gratifying to hear positive feedback. You have no idea how much so. I have lurked here for years and reviewed every finished kitchen dozens of times to cull the good ideas. You all have shown me I should be more vocal in my praise of others too!

For the tung oil- it is a DIY DREAM. You literally paint on with a sponge brush, let sit for five minutes, and wipe it off. Repeat a few times and it builds up a natural hard finish. I went with walnut so I wouldn't have to stain at all. My dad is a woodworker and he recommended it. Plus, if a cabinet does get marred, all you have to do is sand a little and reapply oil. Any type of polyurethane or shellac would require refinishing. Here is a picture of the doors raw and with one coat of the oil. I wish I had known about it years ago.

Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App

Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App

NOTES:

Finishing walnut doors
clipped on: 08.19.2012 at 11:26 am    last updated on: 08.19.2012 at 11:27 am