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RE: How would I grow Patchouli or Vicks Plant? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: CoolPlants on 08.28.2005 at 02:43 pm in Fragrant Plants Forum

My patchouly is approx 3' tall. You can take cuttings easily, just make sure to root them in shade and with no hot, drying wind. I have mine in the shade of a grapefruit tree overhanging from the neighbors.
With patchouly, it's photo-periodic which means it's like an xmas cactus/poinsettia in that if it gets light on it after dark around Nov., it won't flower.
I like to cut the flower heads as they are more fragrant than the leaves.
kevin
p.s. frost and drying out will kill this plant.

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clipped on: 10.18.2013 at 11:02 pm    last updated on: 10.18.2013 at 11:02 pm

RE: Seed from bought bananas (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: ara133 on 04.30.2007 at 11:07 pm in Seed Saving Forum

Hi beckilove, I grow all of my 'grocery store' fruits and vegs as houseplants more for entertainment than as viable garden plants. With that disclaimer, here are some suggestions that have worked well in the past for me (and of course there are probably various ways to propagate them, esp. with things like pineapples, but here's what I do) :)

Oh - a quick note - I usually use a 'baggie method' for sprouting - germinate using wet paper towel inside a ziplock baggie (I set that on a plant heating pad but not necessary). I plant the seeds, tiny root down of course, in peat or peat/sand as soon as the little root starts to poke out - otherwise can be difficult to remove from the towel!

1) Pineapples - cut off top stem (no fruit left), pick off about 1/4" of leaves from the bottom, let it sit on the counter for a few hrs to a day, and place in glass of water to root - sometimes you'll see little roots already started under the picked off leaves.

2) avocado - so common, sure you're familiar with doing this, but it's fun anyway :) take out seed, poke three toothpicks in side to hang over a glass of water so that 1/2 the seed is in the water (or poke seed with toothpicks, remove them, and place it in moist potting medium - I found if you don't poke the seed it doesn't sprout, but that could be my impatience!)

3) passion fruit: remove seeds, wash off arils by scrubbing them against a fine mesh metal strainer, plant right away (I sprout on wet paper towels in baggies). These can be difficult but worth it!

4) guava - wash seeds, baggie method.
5) pomegranate - very cute plants! - chew up arils (YUM), use baggie method.

6) apples - I've had a lot of luck with seeds that have already sprouted IN the apple when I open it :) If seeds haven't sprouted, dry them off, stick in fridge for at least a month, then sprout in peat to hopefully avoid damping off.

7) melons - very easy, baggie method.

8) citrus - remove seeds, I usually let them dry out first, then baggie method.

9) loquat - has been ages since I did this one, but I think i just remoevd seeds - baggie method as usual.

10) sweet potato - plant pieces of the potato! Pretty leaves. Or suspend potato (similar to avocado seed) in half full glass of water.

11) peppers, tomatoes - dry seeds, then use baggie method.

12) prickly pears - buy one of the pinkish fruits at the store, remove seeds, germinate using baggie method or peat - these are susceptible to damping off... I usu. use peat.

13) litchi - I can't tell you how many times I've tried to sprout a litchi. Never worked! They say it has to be really really fresh... a challence! :)

14) mints - once you're done with the leaves, root the bare stems in a glass of water!

15) frozen blueberries and cranberries - I've ground these up in a blender (or just smush the fruit to get at the seeds), rub them against the wire mesh colander/strainer thingy, then germinate them on peat (so small, would be hard to use baggie method). It takes a LOOOOONNNNNG time for them to germinate, even over a heating pad. But at least the stratification period is already done for you by buying frozen fruit! :)

16) tamarind - these make the most gorgeous little trees! buy some fresh tamarind pods (maybe the packaged and/or froz. would work too, don't know), pick away the edible pulp, scarify/nick the seeds, soak for a few hrs, and use baggie method.

Others I have not tried but have heard success stories for: kiwi, cucurbits (melons as mentioned above, also cucumbers, squashes, etc), mango (be careful handling - i'm allergic - it's related to poison ivy & cashew and the skin can cause reactions in sensitive people), starfruit, raspberries, ginger (mine always rots), grape, cherries, pears... fresh shelled nuts (may need a cold period for those first), sugar cane (I could never get the eyes to sprout but should work), things with pits (peaches, apricots... these never work for me but might for you!).. that's all I can think of right now!! :)

Now going to the grocery store is like a seed-finding challenge for me!

There's a fantastic book on this, which is actually what got me started. It's called The After-Dinner Gardening Book, by Richard W. Langer, pub. the Macmillan Company, 1969; mine doesn't have an isbn, but Amazon has quite a few copies which you can find just using the title. Good luck!!! I'd be interested in hearing what you try and what works/doesn't work :)

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clipped on: 10.17.2013 at 09:31 pm    last updated on: 10.17.2013 at 09:31 pm

I'm Lazy--What can you root in plain old water???

posted by: love2weed on 05.04.2005 at 08:23 pm in Plant Propagation Forum

Are there any perennials that you can just put in water and get roots?

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clipped on: 10.09.2013 at 12:20 am    last updated on: 10.09.2013 at 12:20 am

Winter light gardening in a basement-- what vegetable options?

posted by: CaraRose on 08.30.2013 at 12:26 pm in Growing under Lights Forum

Last winter I grew lettuce and chard pretty successfully under lights for winter harvest. I was thinking about trying to expand to a few more things, even if just to experiment. I was thinking of trying potatoes and seeing if I could get to the point of getting new potatoes. Also maybe carrots (to be picked young). Root vegetables in general I'd love to try, turnips/beets.

Any other suggestions?

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clipped on: 10.07.2013 at 06:26 pm    last updated on: 10.07.2013 at 06:26 pm

Elephant Ear (?) ID (pics)

posted by: greenman28 on 04.18.2010 at 11:46 pm in House Plants Forum

Hello!
I was hoping for an ID on this plant.
The plants shown belong to a friend, and they've been grown without sufficient light...until recently.

Do the leaves look like Alocasia sanderiana?
Thanks for the help!

Photobucket

Photobucket

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clipped on: 10.06.2013 at 01:43 pm    last updated on: 10.06.2013 at 01:50 pm

Container soils and water in containers (long post)

posted by: tapla on 03.19.2005 at 03:57 pm in Container Gardening Forum

The following is very long & will be too boring for some to wade through. Two years ago, some of my posts got people curious & they started to e-mail me about soil problems. The "Water Movement" article is an answer I gave in an e-mail. I saved it and adapted it for my bonsai club newsletter & it was subsequently picked up & used by a number of other clubs. I now give talks on container soils and the physics of water movement in containers to area clubs.

I think, as container gardeners, our first priority is to insure aeration for the life of the soil. Since aeration and drainage are inversely linked to soil particle size, it makes good sense to try to find a soil component with particles larger than peat and that will retain its structure for extended periods. Pine bark fits the bill nicely.

The following hits pretty hard against the futility of using a drainage layer in an attempt to improve drainage. It just doesn't work. All it does is reduce the soil available for root colonization. A wick will remove the saturated layer of soil. It works in reverse of the self-watering pots widely being discussed on this forum now. I have no experience with these growing containers, but understand the principle well.

There are potential problems with wick watering that can be alleviated with certain steps. Watch for yellowing leaves with these pots. If they begin to occur, you need to flush the soil well. It is the first sign of chloride damage.

One of the reasons I posted this is because of the number of soil questions I'm getting in my mail. It will be a convenient source for me to link to. I will soon be in the middle of repotting season & my time here will be reduced, unfortunately, for me. I really enjoy all the friends I've made on these forums. ;o)

Since there are many questions about soils appropriate for containers, I'll post by basic mix in case any would like to try it. It will follow the Water Movement info.

Water Movement in Soils

Consider this if you will:

Soil need fill only a few needs in plant culture. Anchorage - A place for roots to extend, securing the plant and preventing it from toppling. Nutrient Sink - It must retain sufficient nutrients to sustain plant systems. Gas Exchange - It must be sufficiently porous to allow air to the root system. And finally, Water - It must retain water enough in liquid and/or vapor form to sustain plants between waterings. Most plants could be grown without soil as long as we can provide air, nutrients, and water, (witness hydroponics). Here, I will concentrate primarily on the movement of water in soil(s).

There are two forces that cause water movement through soil - one is gravity, the other capillary action. Gravity needs little explanation, but for this writing I would like to note: Gravitational flow potential (GFP) is greater for water at the top of the pot than it is for water at the bottom of the pot. I'll return to that later. Capillarity is a function of the natural forces of adhesion and cohesion. Adhesion is water's tendency to stick to solid objects like soil particles and the sides of the pot. Cohesion is the tendency for water to stick to itself. Cohesion is why we often find water in droplet form - because cohesion is at times stronger than adhesion, water�s bond to itself can be stronger than the bond to the object it might be in contact with; in this condition it forms a drop. Capillary action is in evidence when we dip a paper towel in water. The water will soak into the towel and rise several inches above the surface of the water. It will not drain back into the source. It will stop rising when the GFP equals the capillary attraction of the fibers in the paper.

There is, in every pot, what is called a "perched water table" (PWT). This is water that occupies a layer of soil that is always saturated & will not drain at the bottom of the pot. It can evaporate or be used by the plant, but physical forces will not allow it to drain. It is there because the capillary pull of the soil at some point will equal the GFP; therefore, the water does not drain, it is "perched". If we fill five cylinders of varying heights and diameters with the same soil mix and provide each cylinder with a drainage hole, the PWT will be exactly the same height in each container. This is the area of the pot where roots seldom penetrate & where root problems begin due to a lack of aeration. From this we can draw the conclusion that: Tall growing containers are a superior choice over squat containers when using the same soil mix. The reason: The level of the PWT will be the same in each container, with the taller container providing more usable, air holding soil above the PWT. Physiology dictates that plants must be able to take in air at the roots in order to complete transpiration and photosynthesis.

A given volume of large soil particles have less overall surface area in comparison to the same volume of small particles and therefore less overall adhesive attraction to water. So, in soils with large particles, GFP more readily overcomes capillary attraction. They drain better. We all know this, but the reason, often unclear, is that the PWT is lower in coarse soils than in fine soils. The key to good drainage is size and uniformity of soil particles. Large particles mixed with small particles will not improve drainage because the smaller particles fit between the large, increasing surface area which increases the capillary attraction and thus the water holding potential. Water and air cannot occupy the same space at the same time. Contrary to what some hold to be true, sand does not improve drainage. Pumice (aka lava rock), or one of the hi-fired clay products like Turface are good additives which help promote drainage and porosity because of their irregular shape.

Now to the main point: When we use a coarse drainage layer under our soil, it does not improve drainage. It does conserve on the volume of soil required to fill a pot and it makes the pot lighter. When we employ this exercise in an attempt to improve drainage, what we are actually doing is moving the level of the PWT higher in the pot. This reduces available soil for roots to colonize, reduces total usable pot space, and limits potential for beneficial gas exchange. Containers with uniform soil particle size from top of container to bottom will yield better drainage and have a lower PWT than containers with drainage layers. The coarser the drainage layer, the more detrimental to drainage it is because water is more (for lack of a better scientific word) reluctant to make the downward transition because the capillary pull of the soil above the drainage layer is stronger than the GFP. The reason for this is there is far more surface area in the soil for water to be attracted to than there is in the drainage layer.

I know this goes against what most have thought to be true, but the principle is scientifically sound, and experiments have shown it as so. Many nurserymen are now employing the pot-in-pot or the pot-in-trench method of growing to capitalize on the science.

If you discover you need to increase drainage, insert a wick into the pot & allow it to extend from the PWT to several inches below the bottom of the pot. This will successfully eliminate the PWT & give your plants much more soil to grow in as well as allow more, much needed air to the roots.

Uniform size particles of fir, hemlock or pine bark are excellent as the primary component of your soils. The lignin contained in bark keeps it rigid and the rigidity provides air-holding pockets in the root zone far longer than peat or compost mixes that rapidly break down to a soup-like consistency. Bark also contains suberin, a lipid sometimes referred to as nature�s preservative. Suberin is what slows the decomposition of bark-based soils. It contains highly varied hydrocarbon chains and the microorganisms that turn peat to soup have great difficulty cleaving these chains.

In simple terms: Plants that expire because of drainage problems either die of thirst because the roots have rotted and can no longer take up water, or they starve to death because they cannot obtain sufficient air at the root zone for the respiratory or photosynthetic processes.

To confirm the existence of the PWT and the effectiveness of using a wick to remove it, try this experiment: Fill a soft drink cup nearly full of garden soil. Add enough water to fill to the top, being sure all soil is saturated. Punch a drain hole in the bottom of the cup & allow to drain. When the drainage stops, insert a wick several inches up into the drain hole . Take note of how much additional water drains. This is water that occupied the PWT before being drained by the wick. A greatly simplified explanation of what occurs is: The wick "fools" the water into thinking the pot is deeper, so water begins to move downward seeking the "new" bottom of the pot, pulling the rest of the PWT along with it.

Having applied these principles in the culture of my containerized plants, both indoors and out, for many years, the methodology I have adopted has shown to be effective and of great benefit to them. I use many amendments when building my soils, but the basic building process starts with screened bark and perlite. Peat usually plays a very minor role in my container soils because it breaks down rapidly and when it does, it impedes drainage.

My Soil

I'll give two recipes. I usually make big batches.

3 parts pine bark fines
1 part sphagnum peat (not reed or sedge peat)
1-2 parts perlite
garden lime
controlled release fertilizer
micro-nutrient powder (substitute: small amount of good, composted manure

Big batch:

3 cu ft pine bark fines (1 big bag)
5 gallons peat
5 gallons perlite
1 cup lime (you can add more to small portion if needed)
2 cups CRF
1/2 cup micro-nutrient powder or 1 gal composted manure

Small batch:

3 gallons pine bark
1/2 gallon peat
1/2 gallon perlite
handful lime (careful)
1/4 cup CRF
1 tsp micro-nutrient powder or a dash of manure ;o)

I have seen advice that some highly organic soils are productive for up to 5 years. I disagree. Even if you were to substitute fir bark for pine bark in this recipe (and this recipe will far outlast any peat based soil) you should only expect a maximum of three years life before a repot is in order. Usually perennials, including trees (they're perennials too, you know ;o)) should be repotted more frequently to insure vigor closer to genetic potential. If a soil is desired that will retain structure for long periods, we need to look to inorganic amendments. Some examples are crushed granite, pea stone, coarse sand (no smaller than BB size in containers, please), Haydite, lava rock, Turface or Schultz soil conditioner.

I hope this starts a good exchange of ideas & opinions so we all can learn.

Al

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clipped on: 10.06.2013 at 01:47 pm    last updated on: 10.06.2013 at 01:49 pm