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What is your favorite HE detergent and why?

posted by: supermommy on 09.22.2006 at 05:41 pm in Laundry Room Forum

What HE detergents have you tried, powder or liquid, and why did you or didn't you like certain ones?


clipped on: 01.04.2008 at 07:33 pm    last updated on: 01.04.2008 at 07:34 pm

RE: When Do HD Tuners Become Mandatory? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: jdbillp on 01.16.2007 at 08:06 am in Electronics Forum

Here is some info that may answer your question.

In 2005, the FCC revised its rules to advance completion of its digital tuner mandate by four months to March 1, 2007, and expanded the mandate's scope to include sets measuring 13 inches and smaller.

The new final mandate replaced and completed an initial five-year phased-in order that started with large sets with screens measuring 36-inch (diagonally) and up.

Under the new schedule, every new TV set sold in the United States after February 2007 must include an over-the-air ATSC digital tuner. The previous phased-in rules would have required digital tuners in most sets by July 1, 2007, exempting sets with screen sizes measuring 13 inches and smaller.

As under the previous rules, the component approach to DTV adoption is also possible. However, monitor-only displays that omit digital tuners must exclude analog NTSC tuners to qualify. Also, the FCC says that combinations of DTV monitors and set-top DTV tuners, if marketed together at one price, qualify as integrated sets. Monitor-only displays still can be sold without DTV tuners if they also omit analog ATSC tuners.

Meanwhile, the FCC also advanced the date for 100 percent compliance for mid-sized TVs from July 1, 2006 to March 1, 2006.

Under the previous phased-in rules, 50 percent of all large-screen sets carrying analog tuners (36-inches and larger) were to have integrated DTV tuners as of July 1, 2004, and 100 percent as of July 1, 2005. Fifty percent of all mid-sized sets (25 inches to 36 inches) were to have integrated DTV tuners as of July 1, 2005, expanding to 100 percent by March 1, 2006.

In the FCC's Second Report and Order on DTV tuning, the Commission urged manufacturers and retailers to begin labeling sets for their tuning capabilities. The FCC said the call to voluntary labeling is an interim step until the FCC addresses mandatory-labeling proposals in its Second DTV Periodic Review.

Here is a link that might be useful: Complete CEA article


clipped on: 04.16.2007 at 11:10 am    last updated on: 04.16.2007 at 12:13 pm

RE: Can stacked LG Tromm dryer legs be levelled? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jamesk on 03.05.2007 at 07:42 pm in Laundry Room Forum

I'm not sure about LG Tromm, but on most other brands, when the dryer is stacked on the washer the dryer legs are either removed or turned all the way up. There are then brackets that attach the dryer to the washer, or tabs on one or the other that fit into slots on the other. Once the tabs are in their corresponding slots, screws are inserted that lock the dryer in place, turning the stacked pair into what is essentially a single unit. Hence, only the washer feet are used in leveling.

Incidently, when leveling your machines, don't place the level on the top, place it vertically along one side, then vertically along the front of the machines. When your spirit level indicates you're level in both directions -- then the machines are properly leveled.

Hope this helps.



clipped on: 04.16.2007 at 12:08 pm    last updated on: 04.16.2007 at 12:08 pm

RE: Any solutions for under-arm stains? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: cmc_97 on 09.20.2005 at 06:35 pm in Laundry Room Forum

In a previous thread about this subject (long rolled off this list), various remedies were suggested. A couple of suggestions were mentioned several times

Soak the area in distilled white vinegar or lemon juice; the acids are supposed to break down the antiperspirant salts. Rub the area with liquid detergent, then wash in hot water with an oxygen bleach

Or, use more or less the same procedure with ammonia (for fresh stains?) instead of vinegar.

There is a difference between deodorant stains and perspiration stains. Google "underarm stains" and you'll discover various "recipes" that may work for you.

A preventative measure that is often mentioned is to let your deodorant dry completely before you put on the shirt.

Googling is so much fun. Apparently there is a line of specialty t-shirts and camisoles that prevent sweat from ever reaching your clothes, without bulky underarm shields. What will they think of next?


Here is a link that might be useful: Specialty undershirts and camisoles


clipped on: 03.02.2007 at 09:10 pm    last updated on: 03.02.2007 at 09:11 pm

RE: Any solutions for under-arm stains? (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: dross on 06.23.2006 at 09:11 pm in Laundry Room Forum

The usual things to try (in no particular order) are (a) different detergents; (b) different temperatures, (c) profile wash with an enzymatic detergent, if your machine allows this; (d) pretreating with an appropriate bar soap, like Fels Naptha or Colgate Octagon, (e) additive like lestoil or similar, (f) wash or presoak in ammonia. Obviously, you want to stick with the solution that (i) works, and (ii) doesn't damage the clothing. If it is a bacteriological odor, (c) and (e) are likely to be most effective. If from the deodorant itself, (d) and (f) are the solutions I'd try first. - DR


clipped on: 03.02.2007 at 09:09 pm    last updated on: 03.02.2007 at 09:09 pm

RE: Dry Clean Only (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: housekeeping on 09.02.2006 at 02:41 pm in Laundry Room Forum

I, too, would be very leery of washing a garment like that in a washing machine. While technically flax (linen) is a washable fabric, a constructed garment like a jacket will have not only the lining, but facings, inner facings and possibly other padding or shaping layers buried within. And these may not be washable, or even if they are, they may be attached with water soluble adhesives. The washing action could get them impossibly rucked up.

And the central principal of laundry is that you must always allow the most fragile component of the item to determine what to do. Even if, as in this case, the linen is probably quite washable, sturdy, hot temp-loving, etc.

An alternative to water washing would be spot cleaning just the really soiled parts, then lightly steaming it to get rid of wrinkles and finally giving it a good airing.

However, if you really must clean this jacket and are willing to risk totally destroying it I would consider washing, but only by hand, the first time.

The first thing is to examine the garment carefully and note which areas are particularly soiled, and with what. The point of doing this to understand where you need to be willing to be a bit more aggressive to get it clean. What I recommend is that on the entire garment you aim for the least cleaning you can get away with, reserving extra efforts only for those places that need it. In other words plan on doing a light cleaning of every part, with extra spot cleaning rather clean the entire garment aggressively enough to tidy the worst places. Does that make sense?

The second issue is whether the fabrics (linen and lining) are water and dye safe. Test this by wetting a concealed spot of each with a paper towel soaked in water. You may see some dye release. You will have to decided if the potential risk of release dye is acceptable to you. As long as it is uniform through out the whole garment (which happens when it is totally immersed) most dye releases don't ruin a garment, though dye from one part may discolor the other.

The next issue is to test whatever detergent you are planning on using. I'd certainly choose a mild, handwash/ delicate product as that would be less likely to have extra additives, or bleaches etc. Woolite would be OK, so would Delicare. Take small amount of the concentrated product and spot test it, again on a hidden part.

Now lay the garment flat in a clean bathtub or a kitchen sink and using tepid (at most) water begin to methodically clean the worst areas using tiny amount of your soap, lots of blotting and sort of gentle smushing through of the suds into the fabric, not rubbing or wringing. Then rinse each area and move on to the next. Try not to use much detergent as every bit will increase the amount you have to rinse.

When that is done, your garment will be pretty wet by now, so fill the basin or tub with more water and submerge it carefully by just pushing it down gently, over and over. You probably won't need to add any more detergent as the residue from the spot cleaned areas will be enough. Don't try to swirl or imitate a washing machine. Just push down, repeatedly for a couple of minutes. Then fold the garment gently and hold it to the side out of the water and drain the water from the tub.

With an empty tub, put the garment down and look at the places of special concern and see if you've gotten them clean enough. If so you're ready to go on to rinsing. If not, do another round of spot cleaning. If it's OK, then go on to rinsing.

Refill with clean, cool water and set the garment back in and do the push-under-water stuff again. Then repeat the lift out/ drain/ refill/push under water steps a couple of times more. By now you should see no suds, and you should aim for no suds. Stop when you've decided it has been rinsed enough.

Now lay a clean thick bath towel (or two) down flat in the basin and set the garment carefully down, arranging it so it is good, smooth, order. Then lay another thick clean towel on top. And carefully roll the garment up in the towels. On a jacket I would do this from side to side not from bottom or top. The purpose of the towels is to blot up as much water, but you do NOT want to really squeeze or press at this point because of wrinkling. It's really just contact absorption you're looking for here.

Now, carefully hang the garment on a well-shaped plastic hanger. If you possibly can, insert balls of crumpled nylon netting in the caps of the sleeves and in the sleeves themselves to help reshape them. Smooth out the lining so it's not caught up anywhere. Align the jacket fronts, do up buttons, finger press the facings smooth, adjust the roll of the collar. And hang the garment out of the sun in a breezy place, or direct a fan to it.

As it dries, recheck that it is hanging smoothly and that the shape is correct. Lightly press and tug at any place that needs readjusting.

Well before it is bone dry begin to think about the pressing. If you have a tailor's ham and sleeve board you'll be fine, but if not you will need another pile of clean dry towels and a clean pillow case to create shaping rolls for the sleeves, shoulders, lapels and possibly the front. You will also need a couple of cotton press cloths.

Now, examine the garment and see how the lining is attached to the body at the cuff, all around the hem and at the arm holes. Sometimes linings are only tacked or catch-stiched, rather than seamed. If that is the case I would consider disconnecting the lining at cuff and hem and pull it out and press it separately. It would still be connected by seams along the front, and collar, so you'd have a sort of Siamese twin garment. But it will vastly easier to do it that way. If you do disconnect it, press it smooth, then re-stich where it originally was.

If you choose to leave it attached, turn the entire garment inside out to expose the lining. Create a roll out of the dry towels and cover it with a pillow case and insert it into one of the sleeves, paying attention to filling out the sleeve cap/shoulder intersection. Then lightly press the lining doing only the minimum necessary to get it to hang smoothly. You do not need to have it dead flat as it will never be seen. Repeat on the other side. Now, with the garment still inside out press the body lining smooth, go up to, but do not press over the seam where the lining adjoins the facings of the front and collar. You will need to make the lining look smooth and attractive (more so than inside the sleeves) but do the very least you can get away with as you will also be pressing the outside of the garment at the same time and there is a risk you are creating wrinkles that you can not see. Be aware that at the cuff and along the hem of the garment the lining will hang down in a fold over where it's attached so it will seem longer that the body of the garment when it's laid out flat. That's ok. Just allow the fold to be pressed where it naturally lies, not hanging down below the hem.

Now turn the garment back right side out.

With a press cloth between your iron and the fabric press the inside of the hem of the cuff with the tip of the iron.

Then do the same along the inside of the bottom of the hem around the front and backs. Stop short of the front opening.

Along the front opening and on the inside of the collar stand (but not the collar itself), press the lapel and facings smooth, and crossing over onto the lining fabric to make a smooth join. It is always a question how far out on the lapel you go at this stage and it depends on whether the jacket has a straight placket like a Mao-style garment or a turned-over lapel like a men's suit jacket. If the former, just press the entire inside; if the later, press outward but not all the way as you will be going back and doing shaping press a little later.

Recreate the sleeve roll with towels and pillow case and insert into a sleeve (make sure the lining stays straight as you do this). Using a press cloth, iron around the stuffed sleeve, working up onto the sleeve cap/shoulder shaping. Repeat on other side. You may need to have two shaping rolls to provide a firm surface; one for the narrow, cylindrical sleeve and a cantelope-sized blob for the shoulder area. The whole point of these is to be able to press against a smooth, round surface not a flat one like an ironing board. That avoids ironing in creases.

Now lightly press the inside of the collar and lapels. Smoothness is what you want, not perfect ironing. Be careful not to pull or disturb any natural rolls that form and be careful not to force the edges to make new foldovers. In fact, I try to press away from the edges to avoid this. Then do the outside of the underside of the collar and lapels.

Then go on to do the shoulders, pressing from front to back on both sides, then do the top back shoulders and the rest of the back.

Then do one front after the other, finishing with the one with the buttonholes, not the buttons on it.

Now, carefully press the front (visible parts) of the lapels and collar and immediately hang the garment up and form the correct roll or fold using just your fingers or a light application of the iron.

Let the garment dry thoroughly before you wear it or hangin the closet. This might take 8-12 hours, as interior components will take a surprisingly long time to dry once they have been immersed in water.

I hope this is clear, and not too daunting, if you are determined to go ahead. I have probably erred in including so much info as this would be the procedure for a very formally constructed garment and your linen jacket may be much simpler. BUt you can't go wrong treating a simple garment carefully, but much is lost if you attack a complicated jacket as if it was flat.

If you need the jacket on Monday, I would begin this today (Saturday).



clipped on: 03.01.2007 at 08:30 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2007 at 08:30 pm

RE: Space-saving ideas for behind washer & dryer (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: srswirl on 01.06.2006 at 01:08 pm in Laundry Room Forum

I faced the same problem you did...and solved it with the dryerbox. My dryer is now all the way against the wall (I did leave about an inch of space for safety reasons so that the back does not touch the wall and so that the dryer can intake air properly). It's the perfect solution because it goes INTO the wall between the studs and is completely flush, thus eliminating all protrusions (the vent itself goes out the top). In addition, the leeway you get is equal to the distance between the studs...which is going to usually be either 14 or 16 inches on center. I can't imagine a need for more than this. My original dryer vent did not match up AT ALL with ANY dryer I have ever seen...but with the dryer box installed, I can now match up virtually any dryer to it.

I used the box for new construction, even though mine was a retro-fit (they have retro-fit boxes, too) because it is bigger, deeper, and the vent hole is more round rather than oval like it is on the retro-fit boxes. I simply cut away the drywall, using the box itself as a template, to expose the studs, slipped the box in, screwed the edges to the studs, and filled the edges with joint compound to create a seemless built in. Once I repainted, it looks like it's been there forever. And it works perfectly. I could not have asked for a better solution. I wish I thought of it myself, because it is far superior to the "protrusional" method of installing dryer vents...and FAR more flexible overall.

Just my two cents...


clipped on: 03.01.2007 at 07:42 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2007 at 07:43 pm

Septic - do I need a washer lint filter

posted by: shawneeks on 10.19.2006 at 08:08 am in Laundry Room Forum

Building a house, and will have a septic system for the first time. Found this web-site "" and wonder if this is a gimick or a good thing to have. If so, I need the plumbers to put the drain outside of the wall so I can add the filter. Any experience with this?


send septic protector link
clipped on: 03.01.2007 at 07:22 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2007 at 07:23 pm