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My kitchen 93.8467% finished! tons of pics!

posted by: quelyn on 04.28.2013 at 11:19 am in Kitchens Forum

Hello! My husband and I did the reno ourselves since I was hosting a baby shower and had to have it completed by yesterday (Saturday!) Eek! We got most of it done, had a great time at the shower, but I have to say thanks to you Kitchen forum peeps, I cannot tell you how many times my husband and a referenced this forum to look for hints, ideas, answers, etc. Unbelievable resource this is! And now for some pics (sorry they were taken with my phone...) My husband is fabulous and every single thing in the kitchen except for the countertops! He even did the beautiful ceiling and cabinets! (although he is a cabinetmaker by trade :) )

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EDITED TO ADD...some more phone camera pics!

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The counters are marble and my ceilings are 9 feet so I am not sure how tall the uppers are but they are the standard off the counter and extend all the way to the crown. Thanks for all the kind comments!

This post was edited by quelyn on Sun, Apr 28, 13 at 20:55


clipped on: 05.02.2013 at 12:11 pm    last updated on: 05.02.2013 at 12:11 pm

RE: Jenn Air Frig not cooling (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: dodge59 on 02.12.2013 at 07:11 pm in Appliances Forum

OK that model does use the old style compressor (On/off) and it does use
a "Start Relay", which is about $35. You can get the part here:

You can also google the model # of your fridge and the word "parts" and several sites will come up, Fixya, Just Answer and even Garden Web, and in most cases the relay fixed the problem!
Sometimes the wires going to it need to be repaired too but that is a minor fix.

Good luck with it!



clipped on: 02.14.2013 at 06:03 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2013 at 06:03 pm

2LittleFishies Yellow Kitchen Reveal !!! LONG!

posted by: 2LittleFishies on 02.08.2013 at 09:07 am in Kitchens Forum

OK, here is my finished yellow kitchen thread! Can't believe it is here!
I can't thank ALL of you enough (or at least those who shared in my vision!) for all the help. Like most of us I really spent so much time on every decision. I joke that nothing happened by accident.
There are so many of you that contributed your thoughts and ideas but I want to especially thank lavender_lass and marcolo for all of their wise words and helping me find and stay true to my vision.
I found the hardest part of renovating is not going off track every time you have to make a decision and not letting others sway you to do things you really don't want to do!

What is NOT finished:
*Still waiting on banquette bench for between the 2 built-ins
*New Dining Table
*2 ends of the Backsplash Tile are not installed yet b/c they were sent back to manufacturer to get a bull-nosed edge.
*Custom light switch cover to match BS tile.
*Deciding on window treatments-whether or not to do them...


*Custom Cabinetry- Cabinet Maker in PA.
Perimeter is 36" finished, island is 34" high, baking area 33" high

*Colors of Cabinetry- BM Barley 199, BM Mascarpone AF-20 Cabinets were finished with a catalyzed lacquer (not paint) and clear top coat.

*Wall Paint- Kitchen- BM Elephant Tusk OC-8
Dining Area/Living Room BM Woodlawn Blue HC-147
Living Room BM Putnam Ivory HC-39

*Countertops- Vermont Imperial Danby Marble 3cm (purchased from PMI in NJ); Black Walnut 2" Thick Island Top finished with Satin Waterlox (constructed by our Cabinet Maker)

Thermador CIT365GM 36" Induction Cooktop (mirrored finish)
Electrolux Icon Double Ovens- Professional Series E30EW85GPS6
Electrolux Icon French Door Fridge- Professional Series E23BC68JPS5
Bosch 800 Plus Dishwasher- SHV7ER53UC
Miele H4080BM Speed Oven
Marvel 60RDEBBO Fridge Drawers

*Floors- Red Oak finished with Minwax Provincial Stain and Vermeister Commercial Finish Poly. Matte

Renovation Hardware Gilmore Cup Pulls in Chrome
Top Knobs Cabinet Latches in Chrome
Emtek Old Town Clear Knob in Chrome
Schaub & Company 6" Chrome Pulls and 12" pull for Dishwasher

UCL & In Cabs- Seagull LED lights 3000K temp
Drum Pendants- Lamps Plus
5 light Chandelier- Visual Comfort- Michael S Smith Eiffel Chandelier in Polished Nickel

Main- Kohler Whitehaven K-6489 36" Apron Front Cast Iron Sink
Prep- Kohler K-6584 Iron/Tones Cast Iron Sink

Main- Moen Woodmere in Chrome S7208C
Prep- Moen Woodmere Prep Faucet in Chrome S6208C
Soap dispensers- Moen
Pot Filler- Moen Showhouse

*Insinkerator Evolution Essential Disposal
Insinkerator Instahot Faucet F-HC2215 Chrome
Insinkerator SST-FLTR

*Backsplash by Wizard Tile
Design is Ribbons & Feathers with Crackle Glaze in Custom Color

*Stools- Counter Height from Grandinroad

BEFORE: This project included pushing out the entire back of our 1950 Cape 7 feet. Also, removing about 5' of our living room wall which involved moving the basement steps over. Removing a wall between the dining room and kitchen, adding a covered porch. We also did all new siding and other exterior things but I'll stick to inside.

Kitchen was originally a galley measuring about 19' x 9 1/2'. Dining Room was about 8 1/2' wide. Now it's really one large room 28' x 16 1/2'. Kitchen side alone is 16' x 16 1/2'

Choosing reveal photos was worse than narrowing down pics for our Wedding Album! SO sorry in advance for the quantity! Hopefully you'll never have to ask me for more pics : )

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Most of my drawers like these are adjustable which I'd highly recommend. If they weren't I wouldn't have been able to remove partitions to fit taller pieces.

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Key Cabinet

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My KitchenAid

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TV Pocket Doors Over Fridge

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Thanks, Breezy : )

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Storage at Back of Island (Shelves are 9 1/2" deep)

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MY ORGANIZATIONAL SPOT (cork back, file drawer, printer, BluRay player, desk items, charging drawer)

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CUSTOM SLIDING DOORS-- These were at one point supposed to be pocket doors but I didn't want to close off views by having 3' of wall pocket on either side so came up with this which is working well at blocking sound but still gives an open feeling to the space.
I also love the 3 lights on the top so it's less busy and easier to clean!

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The blue looks brighter than it does IRL:

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THANK YOU GW for this FUN, FULFILLING, (and often STRESSFUL) Experience : )


clipped on: 02.08.2013 at 11:06 am    last updated on: 02.08.2013 at 11:06 am

Mother of pearl tile backsplash

posted by: sparky16 on 02.06.2013 at 05:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hello's my first time posting. My husband and I are going to be tiling our backsplash ourselves. We have a beautiful white mother of pearl tile. What should we use to adhere it to our walls? Most sites I've looked at just say to use a modified thinset, but my husband's concern is that the tile is sooooo thin. How do you keep the thinset from squeezing out between the tiles? Do you just use a really small trowel? Any help or experiences would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!!


clipped on: 02.07.2013 at 11:06 am    last updated on: 02.07.2013 at 11:06 am

RE: Square vs. rounded countertop corners (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: rocketmomkd on 06.13.2012 at 10:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's something I just found. This is pretty helpful for me since the showroom didn't have all these corners on display. I couldn't find anything good to show inside corners.



clipped on: 02.04.2013 at 04:46 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2013 at 04:46 pm

RE: Will my faucet fit my sink/countertop? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: Angie_DIY on 09.12.2012 at 12:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

My conclusion is that you can, but it will be tight, and the placement of the sink and the faucet needs to be thought about carefully (which is what you are doing!).

As you noted, the outer dimensions of your sink are 19". The front wall of your sink base is indubitably 3/4". Therefore, the rear edge of your sink can be (at a minimum) 19.75" from the front of sink base. (But see note about mounting later.)

If the rear edge is 19.75" from the front of the sink base, it is 24-19.75 = 4.25" from the rear edge. Will you have a backsplash? Let's assume so, and assume that you will use 3/8" tile and 1/8" thinset for at total of 1/2". Thus, the rear edge of your sink will be 4.25-0.5 = 3.75" from the backsplash.

If you mount your faucet at 2.5" from the backsplash, the center of the hole will be 3.75-2.5=1.25" from rear edge of the sink. The hole is 1.5" in diameter, so the edge of the hole will be 1.25"-1.5"/2 = 0.5" from the rear edge of your sink. You made it by 1/2".

The flange on your sink is 3/4" wide, so the center of your faucet hole will be 1.25"+3/4"=2" from the inner surface of your sink. That is enough room for you to have a flush reveal, or even a small positive reveal, for your countertop.

Now, the note about mounting. Most times, you are expected to use clips that screw to the bottom of your countertop. Thus, you cannot put the edge of your sink right up against the edge of your sink base and still have room for clips. If your sink were not curved, I would say just use a Sink Setter (linked below). The curve may make it difficult to use a Sink Setter; perhaps you should call them and ask. I think you can use the Sink Setter model that holds the sink by its sides, instead of by the front and rear flanges.

Of course, the curve is a two-edged sword. As the sink curves away from the apex, that creates room to put in the clips. If you can forgo a few clips near the front center, you may get away with it.


Here is a link that might be useful: Sink Setter


clipped on: 01.31.2013 at 05:38 pm    last updated on: 01.31.2013 at 05:39 pm

Almost Finished...lots of pics

posted by: michelle16 on 09.09.2012 at 08:28 am in Kitchens Forum

My kitchen is not completely done, I will post more pics and details when it's finished. Still waiting on a glass door and draw from the cabinet maker.Still need backsplash, am thinking of something unique from artistic tile since I only have one wall of backsplash. Still need curtains and light fixtures are on backorder till October 8th.Thanks to all who helped me along the way.Michelle


beautiful white kitchen ... lots of good details
clipped on: 01.27.2013 at 01:19 pm    last updated on: 01.27.2013 at 01:19 pm

RE: Does warm-glow under-cabinet LED lighting really exist? (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: rococogurl on 10.07.2012 at 10:46 am in Kitchens Forum

We've just been through an energy audit of our home so I've been working on the lighting.

LED uses even less electricity than fluorescent. For task lighting -- or any lighting that is on more than it's off -- it's by far the most cost effective. The trick is getting good quality lights and the color that appeals -- whatever the brand choice might be.

Also, LED is brighter than incandescent or fluorescent so it may not be for everyone (though I am loving it -- I can finally see everything in my closet).

The current rationale is that while LED bulbs cost more, they last longer. This would be important for task bars/strips too since it's expensive to change as someone pointed out up thread. What I've learned: be careful where you buy. I've had two LED ceiling can flood lights -- $39.95 each! -- go dead within a few months. I bought them at Lowe's, which has a house brand. They were exchanged at no cost, no questions asked. These should last 10+ years. I now save all lighting receipts.

Dimmers, which can be great with task lighting, need to be specially made for LED. Plus, the strips or bars need to also be the dimmable type, if that's a consideration.

Right now (who knows about the future) the bulb menu is basically two colors -- "soft" white 2700-low 3000s and daylight 5000-6500. I decided I don't care for the daylight (too blue where I live) except outdoors for my driveway lights where they are whiter at night.

In my house, with incandescent dimmers, I found a workaround. For every 4 lights I use 3 LEDs + 1 incandescent bulb so there's enough juice for the dimmers to work. I did this in our high-use rooms -- kitchen and home offices -- and I've seen a drop in our electric bill.

If I were doing a reno today, I'd go all in on LED, which doesn't have green in the spectrum and gives better quality light IMO than fluorescent or incandescent. Having done this the hard/dumb way I'm stuck with some fluorescent bulbs which are mixed with the others so it's really easy to see how they all function. But that's a whole other story.

Here is a photo I posted before. It's for fluorescent but provides a general reference on the differences in lighting color.

There are many good LED undercabinet choices.


clipped on: 01.24.2013 at 08:49 pm    last updated on: 01.24.2013 at 08:49 pm

RE: Does warm-glow under-cabinet LED lighting really exist? (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: jakuvall on 10.05.2012 at 11:24 am in Kitchens Forum

Figured I should add a note about installation.
I typically angle LED's toward the backsplash a bit- 15 to 30 degrees seams best (45 when mounting above cabinet)
Typcially do this just with wood blocking or an edge detail added to the back of the undercab molding.
Hafele has an angled channel for this purpose but it is meant to be recessed into the bottom of a frameless cabinet which has been routed out- bit fussy to do on site.

Also they have two depths of straight channel- the deeper one may be what rococogirl is referring to- it is 1" deep to eliminate the dots on your counter- the shallower one is not bad but not as effective- all depends on what your molding is really- I most often end up with the shallow one.


clipped on: 01.24.2013 at 08:42 pm    last updated on: 01.24.2013 at 08:42 pm

RE: Paper Towels--To Those With Built In Holders (Follow-Up #38)

posted by: 2LittleFishies on 01.18.2013 at 12:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi Everyone,

Just wanted to update. You can see my original set up above. The dowel was allowing paper towels to roll out too quickly. For a while I had a paper back book wedged in between the towels and the wood so it would pull slower. The other issue is that often even if you grabbed a towel quickly and they didn't roll out passed the cabinetry it would unroll a bit in the cubby.

Anyway, I instead bought one of those Perfect Tear Holders from Amazon. I also have the vertical one many of you also own that just sits on the counter and it allows you to tear off one piece. It clicks each time you pull it.

I had my cabinetmaker redo the cubby, removing the dowel system and using this instead. He had to take the towel holder apart somehow to make it work and fit in the space correctly so that the roll wouldn't sit too high or too low. I LOVE IT! This works MUCH better. For any of you doing a paper towel holder I'd recommend using one of these- or something similar- as you'll get better results : )

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Here is the holder beforehand:
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Here is the product on Amazon


clipped on: 01.21.2013 at 05:50 pm    last updated on: 01.21.2013 at 05:50 pm

RE: Slide-in vs free-standing stove (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: detroit_burb on 01.21.2013 at 03:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

drop in and slide in are different. Drop in literally drops into a cabinet and has a toe kick.

Slide in is a free standing range with lips that overlie the counter top on each side. I like this look better than free standing, but it is an individual choice.

If you are going to do slide in, I highly recommend doing a standard 30" opening between the granite sides, and at least 31" between the cabinets and leave an air pocket between the cabinets. This will allow you to swap out the oven in the future, or take it with you when you move if you want.


clipped on: 01.21.2013 at 05:28 pm    last updated on: 01.21.2013 at 05:28 pm

RE: Anyone see a pantry like this one? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: natal on 08.09.2008 at 02:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

Mine is similar, but it butts up to a doorway, not a cabinet/counter. The top shelf is 9" deep, the 2nd & 3rd are 12" deep, the 4th 18", and the bottom 12". On the left side the top shelf is 9" deep and the rest are all 12". On the right all shelves are 8" deep.


clipped on: 01.05.2013 at 01:02 am    last updated on: 01.05.2013 at 01:02 am

Styling the Kitchen, Part II

posted by: beekeeperswife on 10.22.2012 at 05:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well, Part II to you, but more like part 50 to me!

Ok. You have to use your imagination on the flowers and the veggies are still tied with tie wraps.

I've elimanated any colored pot from the stove. My blue Le Crueset was not that big and I felt it was lost. So, I've just put 2 stainless pots on there.

The tureen is gone, although I did try it without the lid, but I"m sure you guys still say ditch it, which is fine. I have it sitting on the kitchen table for now. ON the table is also a white vase that I think maybe the white hydrangeas will go into. They might also go in my big clear vase or even my silver champagne bucket. Not sure, but will decide tomorrow. It does look very bare, but the flowers will help. Perhaps I could put some glasses on the table along with the pitcher of water with lemons. Maybe?

I do have a gorgeous cocounut cake that I will put on a cake plate and a bunch of the chocolate dipped macaroons. I could put those on the counter where the plates are, if you think I should move the plates and glasses to the table.

the bread is all wrapped but will look a bit nicer without all the plastic wrap you see. Maybe will even put one on the cutting board in front of it, unless that would make it too busy.

The bar area is now just that, a bar area. I figure for a dinner party, that is how we would do it. In the glass bowl will be white roses.

And I'm using the gray napkins with wine glasses that have black and silver bands on them. Do you notice I only put one napkin in the ring (a bee ring ;-) btw) so it looks like I was in the process of doing that. Does that look ok? Or should I do all of them, or none of them?

I ditched the hat on the bench, but left the purse and the gloves. They could end up on the stool at the island. Might look nicer there.

The herbs in the pots are a bit frazzled looking. They will be spiffed up and neat for tomorrow.

Here are the pics:














Thanks for all your help!!!


clipped on: 01.05.2013 at 12:26 am    last updated on: 01.05.2013 at 12:26 am

Finally finished~photos

posted by: katieob on 04.18.2012 at 09:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi all.

It's been a long year, but we moved in a few weeks ago and we're so thrilled!
Again, I'm so thankful to all the gracious forum members here. I get so much great information and inspiration here and your encouragement with Round 2 has been so helpful!

This is a whole house remodel of a 1940's Cape that we purchased last Spring after selling our house. The kitchen is an addition. We still need to paint the window trim and wall above sink, but who knows when....Also, the black front and back door will have better handle hardware soon, just so you know...

I still seem to have giant pics from photobucket, apologies.

Cabs~ Shaker, inset, BM White Dove, custom (same cabinetmaker)
Counters~ Danby Marble on perimeter and walnut on island
Backsplash~Walker Zanger Gramercy Park in Heirloom White
Sink~Shaw's 30 inch
Faucet~Perrin and Rowe, polished nickel
Pendants~ Circa Lighting Small Yoke, polished nickel
Hardware~All PN. Schaub (thanks kateskouros) for appliances, RH Gilmore pulls, RH Glass knobs, Rejuvenation utility latches, Cliffside Brass icebox latches
Stools~Cottage Maine
Range~Viking (mistake, me thinks)
Pot filler~Rohl Swing Arm
DW~ Miele (I think Inspira?)
Fridge Drawers~Kitchen Aid (Love, love,love)
Microwave Drawer~Sharp 24 inch

Thanks for looking !!



Love the Liebherr fridge, thanks Marthavila.





Banquette. Will eventually have cushions, etc.


View from kitchen to front door



clipped on: 01.04.2013 at 11:48 pm    last updated on: 01.04.2013 at 11:48 pm

RE: Not-nearly-done-but-since-you-asked pics (Follow-Up #148)

posted by: alexx on 01.04.2013 at 11:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

I love your pulls. Have you had any problems with dirt or gunk getting into the screws? Also, where did you get your knife block for the drawer. Love it all!


clipped on: 01.04.2013 at 11:39 pm    last updated on: 01.04.2013 at 11:39 pm