Kitchen

EDITED TO ADD...some more phone camera pics!

The counters are marble and my ceilings are 9 feet so I am not sure how tall the uppers are but they are the standard off the counter and extend all the way to the crown. Thanks for all the kind comments!

This post was edited by quelyn on Sun, Apr 28, 13 at 20:55

http://www.repairclinic.com/Jenn-Air-Refrigerator-Model-JCB2059GES-ID-630296-Compressor-Sealed-System-Parts

You can also google the model # of your fridge and the word "parts" and several sites will come up, Fixya, Just Answer and even Garden Web, and in most cases the relay fixed the problem!
Sometimes the wires going to it need to be repaired too but that is a minor fix.

Good luck with it!

Gary

What is NOT finished:
*Still waiting on banquette bench for between the 2 built-ins
*New Dining Table
*2 ends of the Backsplash Tile are not installed yet b/c they were sent back to manufacturer to get a bull-nosed edge.
*Custom light switch cover to match BS tile.
*Deciding on window treatments-whether or not to do them...

Specifics:

*Custom Cabinetry- Cabinet Maker in PA.
Perimeter is 36" finished, island is 34" high, baking area 33" high

*Colors of Cabinetry- BM Barley 199, BM Mascarpone AF-20 Cabinets were finished with a catalyzed lacquer (not paint) and clear top coat.

*Wall Paint- Kitchen- BM Elephant Tusk OC-8
Dining Area/Living Room BM Woodlawn Blue HC-147
Living Room BM Putnam Ivory HC-39

*Countertops- Vermont Imperial Danby Marble 3cm (purchased from PMI in NJ); Black Walnut 2" Thick Island Top finished with Satin Waterlox (constructed by our Cabinet Maker)

*Appliances-
Thermador CIT365GM 36" Induction Cooktop (mirrored finish)
Electrolux Icon Double Ovens- Professional Series E30EW85GPS6
Electrolux Icon French Door Fridge- Professional Series E23BC68JPS5
Bosch 800 Plus Dishwasher- SHV7ER53UC
Miele H4080BM Speed Oven
Marvel 60RDEBBO Fridge Drawers

*Floors- Red Oak finished with Minwax Provincial Stain and Vermeister Commercial Finish Poly. Matte

*Hardware-
Renovation Hardware Gilmore Cup Pulls in Chrome
Top Knobs Cabinet Latches in Chrome
Emtek Old Town Clear Knob in Chrome
Schaub & Company 6" Chrome Pulls and 12" pull for Dishwasher

*Lighting-
UCL & In Cabs- Seagull LED lights 3000K temp
Drum Pendants- Lamps Plus
5 light Chandelier- Visual Comfort- Michael S Smith Eiffel Chandelier in Polished Nickel

*Sinks-
Main- Kohler Whitehaven K-6489 36" Apron Front Cast Iron Sink
Prep- Kohler K-6584 Iron/Tones Cast Iron Sink

*Faucets-
Main- Moen Woodmere in Chrome S7208C
Prep- Moen Woodmere Prep Faucet in Chrome S6208C
Soap dispensers- Moen
Pot Filler- Moen Showhouse

*Insinkerator Evolution Essential Disposal
Insinkerator Instahot Faucet F-HC2215 Chrome
Insinkerator SST-FLTR

*Backsplash by Wizard Tile
Design is Ribbons & Feathers with Crackle Glaze in Custom Color

*Stools- Counter Height from Grandinroad

BEFORE: This project included pushing out the entire back of our 1950 Cape 7 feet. Also, removing about 5' of our living room wall which involved moving the basement steps over. Removing a wall between the dining room and kitchen, adding a covered porch. We also did all new siding and other exterior things but I'll stick to inside.

Kitchen was originally a galley measuring about 19' x 9 1/2'. Dining Room was about 8 1/2' wide. Now it's really one large room 28' x 16 1/2'. Kitchen side alone is 16' x 16 1/2'

Choosing reveal photos was worse than narrowing down pics for our Wedding Album! SO sorry in advance for the quantity! Hopefully you'll never have to ask me for more pics : )

AFTER:

BAKING AREA SIDE OF KITCHEN:

Most of my drawers like these are adjustable which I'd highly recommend. If they weren't I wouldn't have been able to remove partitions to fit taller pieces.

Key Cabinet

My KitchenAid

COOKTOP SIDE OF L:

SINK WALL:

TV Pocket Doors Over Fridge

ISLAND:

Thanks, Breezy : )

Storage at Back of Island (Shelves are 9 1/2" deep)

NOW GOING TO THE RIGHT OF THE SINK/FRIDGE WALL into Dining Area:

6" DEEP BROOM CLOSET

LOOKING FORWARD TO SPRING/SUMMER VIEWS:

MY ORGANIZATIONAL SPOT (cork back, file drawer, printer, BluRay player, desk items, charging drawer)

WHERE BANQUETTE BENCH WILL BE:

BAR AREA:

REFRIGERATOR DRAWERS:

CUSTOM SLIDING DOORS-- These were at one point supposed to be pocket doors but I didn't want to close off views by having 3' of wall pocket on either side so came up with this which is working well at blocking sound but still gives an open feeling to the space.
I also love the 3 lights on the top so it's less busy and easier to clean!

INTO LIVING ROOM:

LIVING ROOM LOOKING INTO KITCHEN:

The blue looks brighter than it does IRL:

A FEW LAST SHOTS...

THANK YOU GW for this FUN, FULFILLING, (and often STRESSFUL) Experience : )
Fishies

As you noted, the outer dimensions of your sink are 19". The front wall of your sink base is indubitably 3/4". Therefore, the rear edge of your sink can be (at a minimum) 19.75" from the front of sink base. (But see note about mounting later.)

If the rear edge is 19.75" from the front of the sink base, it is 24-19.75 = 4.25" from the rear edge. Will you have a backsplash? Let's assume so, and assume that you will use 3/8" tile and 1/8" thinset for at total of 1/2". Thus, the rear edge of your sink will be 4.25-0.5 = 3.75" from the backsplash.

If you mount your faucet at 2.5" from the backsplash, the center of the hole will be 3.75-2.5=1.25" from rear edge of the sink. The hole is 1.5" in diameter, so the edge of the hole will be 1.25"-1.5"/2 = 0.5" from the rear edge of your sink. You made it by 1/2".

The flange on your sink is 3/4" wide, so the center of your faucet hole will be 1.25"+3/4"=2" from the inner surface of your sink. That is enough room for you to have a flush reveal, or even a small positive reveal, for your countertop.

Now, the note about mounting. Most times, you are expected to use clips that screw to the bottom of your countertop. Thus, you cannot put the edge of your sink right up against the edge of your sink base and still have room for clips. If your sink were not curved, I would say just use a Sink Setter (linked below). The curve may make it difficult to use a Sink Setter; perhaps you should call them and ask. I think you can use the Sink Setter model that holds the sink by its sides, instead of by the front and rear flanges.

Of course, the curve is a two-edged sword. As the sink curves away from the apex, that creates room to put in the clips. If you can forgo a few clips near the front center, you may get away with it.

HTH!

Here is a link that might be useful: Sink Setter

LED uses even less electricity than fluorescent. For task lighting -- or any lighting that is on more than it's off -- it's by far the most cost effective. The trick is getting good quality lights and the color that appeals -- whatever the brand choice might be.

Also, LED is brighter than incandescent or fluorescent so it may not be for everyone (though I am loving it -- I can finally see everything in my closet).

The current rationale is that while LED bulbs cost more, they last longer. This would be important for task bars/strips too since it's expensive to change as someone pointed out up thread. What I've learned: be careful where you buy. I've had two LED ceiling can flood lights -- $39.95 each! -- go dead within a few months. I bought them at Lowe's, which has a house brand. They were exchanged at no cost, no questions asked. These should last 10+ years. I now save all lighting receipts.

Dimmers, which can be great with task lighting, need to be specially made for LED. Plus, the strips or bars need to also be the dimmable type, if that's a consideration.

Right now (who knows about the future) the bulb menu is basically two colors -- "soft" white 2700-low 3000s and daylight 5000-6500. I decided I don't care for the daylight (too blue where I live) except outdoors for my driveway lights where they are whiter at night.

In my house, with incandescent dimmers, I found a workaround. For every 4 lights I use 3 LEDs + 1 incandescent bulb so there's enough juice for the dimmers to work. I did this in our high-use rooms -- kitchen and home offices -- and I've seen a drop in our electric bill.

If I were doing a reno today, I'd go all in on LED, which doesn't have green in the spectrum and gives better quality light IMO than fluorescent or incandescent. Having done this the hard/dumb way I'm stuck with some fluorescent bulbs which are mixed with the others so it's really easy to see how they all function. But that's a whole other story.

Here is a photo I posted before. It's for fluorescent but provides a general reference on the differences in lighting color.

There are many good LED undercabinet choices.

Also they have two depths of straight channel- the deeper one may be what rococogirl is referring to- it is 1" deep to eliminate the dots on your counter- the shallower one is not bad but not as effective- all depends on what your molding is really- I most often end up with the shallow one.

Just wanted to update. You can see my original set up above. The dowel was allowing paper towels to roll out too quickly. For a while I had a paper back book wedged in between the towels and the wood so it would pull slower. The other issue is that often even if you grabbed a towel quickly and they didn't roll out passed the cabinetry it would unroll a bit in the cubby.

Anyway, I instead bought one of those Perfect Tear Holders from Amazon. I also have the vertical one many of you also own that just sits on the counter and it allows you to tear off one piece. It clicks each time you pull it.

I had my cabinetmaker redo the cubby, removing the dowel system and using this instead. He had to take the towel holder apart somehow to make it work and fit in the space correctly so that the roll wouldn't sit too high or too low. I LOVE IT! This works MUCH better. For any of you doing a paper towel holder I'd recommend using one of these- or something similar- as you'll get better results : )

BEFORE:

AFTER:

Here is the holder beforehand:

Here is the product on Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00029QOW2/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00

Slide in is a free standing range with lips that overlie the counter top on each side. I like this look better than free standing, but it is an individual choice.

If you are going to do slide in, I highly recommend doing a standard 30" opening between the granite sides, and at least 31" between the cabinets and leave an air pocket between the cabinets. This will allow you to swap out the oven in the future, or take it with you when you move if you want.

Ok. You have to use your imagination on the flowers and the veggies are still tied with tie wraps.

I've elimanated any colored pot from the stove. My blue Le Crueset was not that big and I felt it was lost. So, I've just put 2 stainless pots on there.

The tureen is gone, although I did try it without the lid, but I"m sure you guys still say ditch it, which is fine. I have it sitting on the kitchen table for now. ON the table is also a white vase that I think maybe the white hydrangeas will go into. They might also go in my big clear vase or even my silver champagne bucket. Not sure, but will decide tomorrow. It does look very bare, but the flowers will help. Perhaps I could put some glasses on the table along with the pitcher of water with lemons. Maybe?

I do have a gorgeous cocounut cake that I will put on a cake plate and a bunch of the chocolate dipped macaroons. I could put those on the counter where the plates are, if you think I should move the plates and glasses to the table.

the bread is all wrapped but will look a bit nicer without all the plastic wrap you see. Maybe will even put one on the cutting board in front of it, unless that would make it too busy.

The bar area is now just that, a bar area. I figure for a dinner party, that is how we would do it. In the glass bowl will be white roses.

And I'm using the gray napkins with wine glasses that have black and silver bands on them. Do you notice I only put one napkin in the ring (a bee ring ;-) btw) so it looks like I was in the process of doing that. Does that look ok? Or should I do all of them, or none of them?

I ditched the hat on the bench, but left the purse and the gloves. They could end up on the stool at the island. Might look nicer there.

The herbs in the pots are a bit frazzled looking. They will be spiffed up and neat for tomorrow.

Here are the pics:

Thanks for all your help!!!

It's been a long year, but we moved in a few weeks ago and we're so thrilled!
Again, I'm so thankful to all the gracious forum members here. I get so much great information and inspiration here and your encouragement with Round 2 has been so helpful!

This is a whole house remodel of a 1940's Cape that we purchased last Spring after selling our house. The kitchen is an addition. We still need to paint the window trim and wall above sink, but who knows when....Also, the black front and back door will have better handle hardware soon, just so you know...

I still seem to have giant pics from photobucket, apologies.

Information
Cabs~ Shaker, inset, BM White Dove, custom (same cabinetmaker)
Counters~ Danby Marble on perimeter and walnut on island
Backsplash~Walker Zanger Gramercy Park in Heirloom White
Sink~Shaw's 30 inch
Faucet~Perrin and Rowe, polished nickel
Pendants~ Circa Lighting Small Yoke, polished nickel
Hardware~All PN. Schaub (thanks kateskouros) for appliances, RH Gilmore pulls, RH Glass knobs, Rejuvenation utility latches, Cliffside Brass icebox latches
Stools~Cottage Maine
Fridge~Liebherr
Range~Viking (mistake, me thinks)
Pot filler~Rohl Swing Arm
DW~ Miele (I think Inspira?)
Fridge Drawers~Kitchen Aid (Love, love,love)
Microwave Drawer~Sharp 24 inch

Thanks for looking !!

Love the Liebherr fridge, thanks Marthavila.

Banquette. Will eventually have cushions, etc.

View from kitchen to front door