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RE: Need Advice: Removing Evergreen Shrub (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: bellafiore on 08.06.2014 at 05:05 pm in Shrubs Forum

I dug out 6 huge yews (12' tall!).
First I used a chain saw and cut down all the main stems to about a foot above the ground.
Then I used a shovel as explained by ken_adrian above.
Used a large loppers and my hand trimmer to cut root as I went along and found roots.
Then I used Tordon (the best for any hardwood to hit each of the roots...all you need is a couple of drops full-strength on each large root...I put it in a shampoo bottle so I can just get a drop at a time. Tordon promotes rotting of the plant tissue, so the roots will be rotted very quickly. I replanted with other shrubs a few days later, planting in between where the yews had been. 3 years later, I have a beautiful flowering shrub border with plants from 3-7' tall!
I too do not like to use round-up, but Tordon does the trick without using very much at all.


Not roundup
clipped on: 12.02.2014 at 01:51 pm    last updated on: 12.02.2014 at 01:52 pm

RE: Shade perennials with longest bloom period- freeflowering? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dbarron on 08.07.2014 at 05:52 pm in Perennials Forum

There are going to be few perennials due to needing a slower metabolism in shade...less "calories" of shorter available energy pool to bloom. I'll suggest later season bloomers, there's a lot of spring stuff.
Rudbeckia triloba (blooming now...bloomed about July 1st...blooming till frost)..biennial. Reseeds easily.
Lobelia sylphitica (mid july till frost)
Mimulus species (if you have the environment for it), I have alata myself. July till September for mine.
Malvaviscus drummondii (if hardy in your area, you didn't say where you I'm figuring on MY zone 6b) (July till frost)

That's what's blooming in my beds now...and all I can think of at the moment.
Clematis if you can get the top of the vine into the sun and leave roots in shade...will love it.


clipped on: 08.07.2014 at 10:11 pm    last updated on: 08.07.2014 at 10:11 pm

RE: better filteration (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: jannyfanny on 08.26.2010 at 03:32 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

Dear Okiee,

Please, oh please don't waste your time and energy on a shop-vac. I used to do it this way, so I know that even with a 300-gallon pond, the constant emptying will break your back. For a few more dollars you can get a Flotec 1/2 hp utility pump at Home Depot, attach a few pipe fillings to the inlet hose and a length of pvc pipe, and wah-la...your very own pond vac that operates continuously, rather than putting up with the auto-shut-off of the shopvac when it gets full. I actually used fittings to attach my footed vacuum nozzle from my old shop vac to the end of the length of pipe, so now I can truly "vacuum" the floor of the pond. A lot less work, less bending over, quicker, less to clean when you're finished. Good luck,


clipped on: 06.14.2014 at 10:19 pm    last updated on: 06.14.2014 at 10:19 pm

RE: What should I do about layer of algae? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: waterbug_guy on 05.10.2014 at 01:21 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

The muck is all the algae that was making the water green. Single algae cells clump together, called colonies, to try and protect themselves from UV, normally UV from the sun. That makes them heavier and they sink. This all works very much like dust in the house. A lot settles, some is always suspended.

There's no requirement to remove this stuff, but there's no benefit either. In high fish load ponds people don't want it because it consumes O2 as it decays and produces stuff that degrade water quality. A normal Water Garden fish load can handle that no problem and you have a lot of moving water so even less of a problem.

People who have a Wildlife Pond like the stuff because insects live in it creating a food chain. That's good for dragonfly and damselfly larvae.

The downside is how it looks. Longer term, as it decays it becomes smaller and smaller bits and at a certain size it's called DOC (dissolved organic carbon/compounds). The reason a name is given to that size is because it acts differently, acts like soap, can create foam on the water surface. As it continues to decay it gets even smaller (we're talking the size of bacteria) and it stops being a DOC.

Another issue is as it decays it becomes lighter and over time (like a year or two) it starts to not settle back down and becomes suspended. Looks like pale ground pepper suspended in the water. That makes the water less clear, and just generally dirty. There are filters that can deal with that but it a bit tricky.

There was a time when I just let it be. But I changed to removing it and keeping the pond clean. Just made keeping the pond easier, water clearer.

It can be removed with a fine net, like those green minnow nets from the pet store. You have to scoop very slow.

I use a vacuum I make that I call a Silt Vac

In a small pond the net works very good. Your size pond is kind of in the middle, kind of too big for a net, kind of small for a vacuum. But the Silt Vac can certainly be scaled down and a smaller pump used.

I also have a web page that compares the different kinds of vacuums. Really important to pick the right vac for the pond size and also what you're removing. For this fine stuff you need a vac that removes water. Trying to filter the water to return it is a real waste of time...tried many ways.

Loose gravel makes vacuuming difficult. You can put a valve on the pump to reduce power and try to get the sweet spot where there's not enough power to lift gravel, but that slows you down too.

I like rocks on the bottom but I like them mortared. That makes vacuuming really easy, even better than bare liner because no wrinkles and the rocks look nice when clean so it's a reward where seeing bare liner isn't so nice imo.

If you do decide to vacuum it's nice to have a place to hook the hose to so you don't have to have a separate pump. This is how swimming pools are built, the skimmer has an intake that is sized for the hoses and the pump just sucks the hose into place. Very easy. Unlike a swimming pool though you need valve(s) so the pump exit goes into the yard. I used a separate pump because I cleaned other peoples ponds.

This settling stuff will normally be on on going thing, just like dust in the house.

There are ways to direct pump output to the bottom to keep the stuff from settling so filters can remove it. But that is more complex than it sounds. Your filter for example will remove some of this stuff but probably only maybe 10-20%. There are other filters that remove more. It's a whole deal.


clipped on: 06.11.2014 at 11:07 pm    last updated on: 06.11.2014 at 11:07 pm

RE: Can't clear up pond water, have tried everything! (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: pat_c on 05.19.2008 at 05:48 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

Here's an old trick Horton taught me years ago. Take a clean tall kitchen trash can. Cut a series of holes in the side at the bottom. Do this on only one side of the trash can. Get a box of poly batt at walmart. Unwind it and stuff it in the bottom of the trash can and set the trash can at the edge of the pond with the side with the holes facing toward the pond. Then run a hose from your pond to the top of the trash can. The water will fill the can and run down thru the batt and filter. Then it will run out the holes in the can back into the pond. Run this for 2-3 days and I promise the pond will clear. You will have to clean the Batt evry so often but it will trap all that suspended algae. I only had to do this once and my pond cleared and stayed clear.
I do agree with the others that rocks on the bottom only invite trouble. They look good for a week and then spoil the pond beacuse they WILL get covered with algae. Then, you can't see them anyway so what's the point?
The only other product I ever had good luck with is ALgaefix. But Once I used the Horton method, I no longer had to use that! Good luck, we have all been where you are.


clipped on: 05.01.2014 at 06:21 pm    last updated on: 05.01.2014 at 06:21 pm

RE: Sudden Death? to Pittosporum 'Silver Sheen' (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: J Turney Ph.D. (Guest) on 02.02.2011 at 05:35 pm in Garden Clinic Forum

Landscapes are watered by the inch, the same way we measure rain fall. In S. CA we lose 1 inch per week in srping and fall and 2 inches per week in summer in the hot inland vally. This is called the evapotransproation rate. Plants need a precentage of that back depending on how drought tolerant they are, this is called the crop coeefecient. Pittosporum are farily drought tolerant, they need about 50% of the evapotransporation. Shrubs and trees should be deep watered and then allowed to dry out for 1 to 4 weeks. Established Pittosporum can be watered once a month in the spring and fall and twice a month in the summer. Most likely these Pittosporum died from Phytophthora root rot as they were watered too frequently. For root rot control apply a 1/4 inch layer of gypsum around the base of the shrub or tree and then 3-4 inches of mulch. This should be done twice a year, sring and fall. You can also treat with Aliette which controls Phytophthora and some other diseases. But first start watering correctly


clipped on: 02.02.2014 at 11:37 pm    last updated on: 02.02.2014 at 11:37 pm

RE: The asiatic garden beetles have destroyed everything! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: rhizo_1 on 06.30.2010 at 08:15 am in Garden Clinic Forum

Many people know these beetles as June beetles. We have them BIG TIME, this year!

I had forgotten this until my husband and I were talking about how to protect our beautiful, young Allee Elm but he sprayed with a product called Surround WP a couple of years ago when the Japanese Beetles made a huge appearance. It worked great.

Surround is a kaolin clay product, formulated to be sprayed onto susceptible plants. It forms a VERY light coating of the clay on plant surfaces, repelling phytophagus insects from feeding on foliage, fruits, and veggies. It also prevents egg laying.

It's registered for Certified Organic use and can be used up to the day of harvest.

Look into it!


clipped on: 01.27.2014 at 11:07 pm    last updated on: 01.27.2014 at 11:07 pm

RE: Whatever it is, it likes many things! (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: IpmMan on 07.17.2011 at 05:49 pm in Garden Clinic Forum

Rhizo you are on for the buck. I am sure there are Weevils also, but most of the chewing I would put on the night caterpillars. I have seen weevils eat just about all of a rhododendron leaf but the margins are still distinctively notched.
Btw the best control for BVW are dead fall traps. Containers buried up to the rim with a shady board over them and a ring of grease about 1" below the rim. Up till now no chemical has been effective against this pest. I am told by Stan Swyer UNH that the new acelepryn will kill them but have not tried it yet, and at close to $2000/half gallon am unlikely to for a while"


clipped on: 01.11.2014 at 11:30 pm    last updated on: 01.11.2014 at 11:30 pm

Grandpa knows best

posted by: brenzo77 on 07.03.2011 at 11:41 pm in Garden Clinic Forum

Just thought I'd share a little tip I picked up from my grandfather. I had little black beetles and ants that only came out at night devoring my sunflowers, pepper plants, flowers, and well just about everthing in my flower beds and tiny garden. My grandfather was the one who got me into gardening. Ever since I was a kid my favorite memories are going over to grandpas to help with his garden.So of course if I'm having a problem he's the one to ask. I have to admit when he told me his fix I thought the old man was loosing his mind. He told me to go to the grocery store and get a jar of cinnamon, a jar of black pepper, and a jar of chili powder. He told me to mix them all together and dust my flower beds and vegetable patch with the mixture. I was pretty sceptical but I figured what the heck he's been gardening for 60+ years, I'll give it a shot. So with a total of $3 spent, not getting the good stuff to throw on the ground. In one day, boom went out tonight and not a single beetle of ant in sight. Guess I shouldn't have doupted the old man. Thanks Gramps, you the man.


clipped on: 01.09.2014 at 10:37 pm    last updated on: 01.09.2014 at 10:37 pm

RE: Live Oak Bug (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: ians_gardener on 06.11.2011 at 08:55 pm in Garden Clinic Forum

This recipe will kill your scales on your tree....
Mix 40 parts water with 8 parts rubbing alcohol and 1 part dish soap and spray (soaking) the scales with a hand pump sprayer. The alcohol will soften the waxy coating on the scale and allow the soap to enter and kill the scale.....wash off the scales with a blast of water from your hose about 3 hours later.....make sure you spray on a cloudy day......this treatment is very effective, but you may have to repeat it if you missed spraying some scales.



clipped on: 03.10.2013 at 03:29 pm    last updated on: 01.05.2014 at 10:52 pm

RE: Earwig trap (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: oilpainter on 06.21.2010 at 04:42 pm in Growing from Seed Forum

Ok mamashakesit--Here is the full recipe

Bait for Earwigs Earwigs.

Equal parts of soy sauce, oil and (molasses or corn syrup). The molasses is bait to attract them--the oil doesn't allow them to crawl back out and the salt in the soy sauce finishes them off. Put it in a small container(small yogurt container, larger pill bottle, specimen bottle or anything that is fairly deep) covering 1/3 of the bottom with the mixture and bury it up to the brim in the soil. I like the smaller ones because it doesn�t take as much bait and they are easier to bury into the soil. Prop a lid over it so it doesn't get diluted by rain and so it is a nice dark place for them to hide--ha. When you prop the lid, leave a small space for them to crawl into the container. You might have to wait a couple of days for it to work, but mine were full of them the next day. It does work. Your container will be full of them.


clipped on: 01.03.2014 at 10:40 pm    last updated on: 01.03.2014 at 10:40 pm

My native understory list

posted by: hoyess on 03.05.2009 at 02:49 pm in Native Plants Forum

Over the past three to four years we have been creating a series of gardens and small woodlands on our property either from existing lawn area or reclaimed scrub brush. Our priorities until now have been to put in many trees and shrubs and not focus too much on the 'floor'. These areas were either mulched (in the case of the lawn to kill the grass) or I have spent a large amount of time mulching and trying to eliminate invasive weeds (especially garlic mustard). This year, I would like to really work on the perennial layer.

Another development over the past four years or so is that I have gravitated towards more and more natives. Although I still use some 'exotics' I would say I now plant about 70-80% native trees and shrubs. Having said that, I've come up with a list of native perennials I'm thinking of adding this year. As I don't have experience with many of these I'd really appreciate some feedback on the list. I'm trying to steer away from any aggressive varieties or varieties that will seed to quickly and becme hard to control as much of our woodlands still have small trees and I already spend a lot of time keeping up with the current invasives.

For areas where I already have filtered to full shade, average to moist conditions:

Anemone quinquefolia
Arisaema triphyllum
Asarum canadense
Cornus canadensis (may be difficult in my soil)
Cypripedium parviflorum
Dicentra cucullaria and canadensis
Erythronium americanum
Hepatica acutiloba
Heuchera americana
Mertensia virginica
Podophyllum peltatum
Polemonium reptans
Polygonatum pubescens
Polystichum acrostichoides
Sanguinara canadensis
Smilacina racemosa
Tiarella cordifolia
Trillium grandiflorum
Viola canadensis
Viola pubescens

Areas where trees have not really created full cover yet but will as they grow.

Aquilegia candensis
Erythronium americanum
Gernaium maculatum
Lilium philadelphicum
Penstemon digitalis
Lupinus perennis
Heuchera americana
Sisyrinchium montanum (I already have some I can use)
Viola canadensis
Viola pubescens

In these areas I already have some hostas, exotic coral bells, sweet woodruff, tiarella cultivars in the shady areas from my other gardens. I will remove these over time. Similarly in the sunnier areas I have filled some spots in with some non-natives for now.

Thanks for any thoughts and ideas. It will be quite a dollar investment so I want to make good choices.


clipped on: 12.11.2013 at 12:46 pm    last updated on: 12.11.2013 at 12:46 pm

RE: How to identify natives (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: esh_ga on 08.09.2008 at 10:45 am in Native Plants Forum

If the name of a plant includes the full species name (like Asclepias tuberosa) then it is the real deal. A plant that contains the species name plus a name in quotes (Asclepias tuberosa 'Hello Yellow' or Lobelia cardinalis 'Shrimp Salad') means that it is a cultivated variation of the species plant. This plant will be vegetatively propagated to continue the trait for which it was selected (in these two cases, color).

If however you find a name with an "X" in it then it is a hybrid and is the result of two different plants. For example, Lobelia x 'Ruby Slippers' is a hybrid (note the "x" after the genus name). It is a hybrid between two native plants, L. cardinalis and L. siphilitica. It is sometimes shown as Lobelia 'Ruby Slippers'. Note the lack of species name.

Sometime hybrids are with non-native plants: The Cornus genus has been hybridized in several ways with the native flowering dogwood, the Asian dogwood and with the native Pacific dogwood:
- Hybrids with Cornus florida (eastern flowering) and Cornus kousa (asian dogwood): Cornus x �Constellation� sometimes noted Cornus x rutgersensis 'Constellation'
- Hybrids with Cornus florida and Cornus nuttallii (Pacific dogwood): Cornus x 'Eddie's White Wonder'
- Hybrids with Cornus nuttallii and Cornus kousa: Cornus x �Venus�.

You�ll note that when it comes to hybrids, the nursery tag does not always present enough information to know if the hybrid has native parents or includes exotic parentage.

And just to make it a bit more interesting, occasionally a hybrid can be made between plants that are not in the same genus. The plant "x Chitalpa tashkentensis" is a cross between Catalpa bignonioides and Chilopsis linearis, both in the Bignoniaceae family. Don�t let the exotic name fool you - Chitalpa is a combination of the scientific name of the two parents (both natives to the US), while the specific name identifies the city in Uzbekistan where the hybrid was created. This hybrid now has two cultivars, 'Pink Dawn' and 'Morning Cloud.'


clipped on: 12.09.2013 at 11:08 am    last updated on: 12.09.2013 at 11:08 am

RE: Please help me identify this cool purple flower in NJ (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: amelanchier on 06.04.2008 at 01:11 pm in Native Plants Forum

Yep, the white & purple blooms are all over roadsides here right now. The native phlox can be distinguished by its five petals, rather than four.


clipped on: 12.04.2013 at 10:26 am    last updated on: 12.04.2013 at 10:26 am

RE: recommendations for very early flowers (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: razorback33 on 04.24.2008 at 11:26 pm in Native Plants Forum

Rue Anemone - preceeded bloodroot and is still in bloom
Iris cristata - Dwarf Crested Iris
Mayapple - in bloom now - Apples come next month :<)
Greek Valerain - Polemonium reptans - has been in bloom for several weeks
Sweet Shrub - Calycanthus floridus - in bloom for about 2 weeks
Hepatica acutiloba - blooms with Trout lilys
Columbine - at peak now
Squirrel Corn
Dutchman's Breeches
Turkey Corn - Dicentra eximia


clipped on: 12.01.2013 at 10:20 pm    last updated on: 12.01.2013 at 10:20 pm

RE: Wildflowers that are good for shade (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: esh_ga on 04.25.2008 at 05:12 pm in Native Plants Forum

There are lots of white flowering things, but color - lasting color - is harder to come by. I'd look into Green and Gold (Chrysogonum virginianum) and Mouse eared coreopsis (Coreopsis 'Nana) first. By the way, my Home Depot north of Atlanta is stocking both of these as pint sized perennials right now.

There is also Iris cristata (tiny iris, so cute!), Monkshood (Aconitum species), Phlox divaricata (cultivars often available), Campanula divaricata (bellflower), Bellworts (Uvularia), solomon seals (true and false).

Hope that gets you started.


clipped on: 11.30.2013 at 10:36 pm    last updated on: 11.30.2013 at 10:37 pm

RE: Gardenseque Weedflower planting (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: joepyeweed on 08.06.2007 at 05:51 pm in Native Plants Forum

Anything that flowers will attract bees... bees are more likely to harm (sting) a child than anything bats or snakes would do?

A few suggestions for a fence line, you want to plant tall stuff that can tolerate shade up against the fence. And then you want to plant a series of shorter plants in front of those.

You can take native plants and plant them in clumps to form a more organized, landscaped look. No one would complain.

For tall shade tolerant plants along the fence line, I would suggest cupplant(silphinium perfoliatum), ironweed (vernonia fasciculata), joepyeweed (eupatorium maculatum), culversroot (veronicastrum virginicum), new england aster (aster novae angliae) and I would add clumps of indian grass(sorghastrum nutans), for filler in the tall area. (Maybe some red milkweed (asclepias incarnata), if you have moist soil.)

For medium height plants in front of the tall plants I would suggest purple coneflowers (echinacea purpurea), white snakeroot (Eupatorium rugosum), big leaf aster (aster macrophllus), bergamot (monarda fistulosa), coreopsis, penstamen, and for filler in this area I would add a few clumps of little blue stem (schizachyrium scoparium).

And if you have room, in front of the medium height plants I would put in even shorter plants like dolls eyes, (actaea alba), wild geraniums (geranium maculatum), columbines (Aquilegia canadensis) and maybe some native ferns.

Its just creating a tiered landscaped look in front of the fence, using native plants.

If you are already shady then you probably don't want to add a tree, but you may want to consider a shrub or an understory tree. A redbud tree, a serviceberry tree or a pagada dogwood are native small trees commonly used in landscapes.


clipped on: 11.19.2013 at 10:38 pm    last updated on: 11.19.2013 at 10:38 pm

RE: Is this witch hazel ? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: john_mo on 02.24.2006 at 10:05 am in Native Plants Forum

Yes, it is a witch hazel. It may or may not be native. The only native spring-blooming (OK, late winter-blooming) witch hazel that I am aware of is Hamamelis vernalis, Ozark or vernal witch hazel -- which occurs naturally only west of the Mississippi. (Mine have been blooming for almost a month now.) The more widely distributed native species, H. virgniniana, typically blooms in late fall or early winter, and it it's blooms are showy -- like those in your photo. I'm not sure if it is likely to be blooming now. (Is that a current photo?)

There are also non-native witch hazels that are widely planted, and I think these can bloom in either late fall or late winter .


clipped on: 11.16.2013 at 11:00 pm    last updated on: 11.16.2013 at 11:00 pm

RE: native plants with a long season of bloom (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: davidl_ny5 on 05.21.2007 at 11:35 am in Native Plants Forum

Oxeye sunflower, Heliopsis helianthoides, is another -- big, bushy, full of yellow flowers for a couple of months or more.


clipped on: 11.16.2013 at 10:58 pm    last updated on: 11.16.2013 at 10:58 pm

native plants with a long season of bloom

posted by: janet_e on 05.18.2007 at 09:26 pm in Native Plants Forum

I've been surprised at the number of native plants that bloom for a long time in the garden. My list of long-blooming natives is below. I'd like to hear about other native plants that bloom a long time.

Days of bloom is the average from the last two or three years in my garden in Philadelphia.

Verbena canadensis (rose verbena) -- 218 days
Hypoxis hirsuta (goldstar) -- 211 days
Dicentra eximia (fernleaf bleedingheart) -- 207 days
Corydalis sempervirens (pale corydalis) -- 191 days
Campanula rotundifolia 'Olympica' (harebell) -- 178 days
Rudbeckia cv. (black-eyed-susan) -- 128 days
Stylophorum diphyllum (wood poppy) -- 112 days
Heuchera villosa (alumroot) -- 100 days
Oenothera missouriensis (evening primrose) -- 98 days
Echinacea purpurea 'Magnus' (puple coneflower) -- 91 days
Aster divaricatus (white wood aster) -- 86 days
Coreopsis grandiflora 'Minima' (dwarf coreopsis) -- 85 days
Eupatorium album (white thoroughwort) -- 82 days
Callirhoe involucrata (purple poppy mallow) -- 82 days
Aster spectabilis (showy aster) -- 79 days
Ruellia humilis (wild petunia) -- 74 days
Liatris microcephala (blazing-star) -- 74 days
Chrysopsis mariana (Maryland goldenaster) -- 70 days
Aster laevis (smooth aster) -- 68 days
Solidago odora (sweet goldenrod) -- 67 days
Aster linariifolius (stiff aster) -- 60 days
Thalictrum thalictroides (rue anemone) -- 56 days

A couple notes: Hypoxis hirsuta blooms on and off, not continuously. Corydalis sempervirens is a reseeding annual in my garden, and some plants start blooming early, others later, but no individual plant is in bloom as long as 191 days.


clipped on: 11.16.2013 at 10:55 pm    last updated on: 11.16.2013 at 10:55 pm

RE: Long Island nurseries: please list your favorites! (Follow-Up #56)

posted by: chrissyk1963 on 06.14.2006 at 05:52 pm in Metro NY Gardening Forum


VerDerBer's - Route 25 Aquebogue
Bayport Flower House - 940 Montauk Hwy. Bayport
Daisy Garden - Gillette Avenue Bayport
Marders - Snake Hollow Road Bridgehampton
Peconic River Herb Farm - 2749 River Rd. Calverton
Growers Outlet - Barnes Road Center Moriches
The Garden Spot - Railroad Avenue Center Moriches
Holly's - Montauk Highway East Moriches
Hulse's Garden Shed - (behind Sea Cove) East Moriches
Stables - Montauk Highway East Moriches
Cheap Sam's - Farmingville
Bissett - 323 Long Island Avenue Holtsville
Bloomin Haus - 816 Waverly Avenue Holtsville
Porter's Colorful Gardens - Rte 25 Jamesport
Wheatley Farms - Dayton Ave Manorville
Glover Perennial Growers - 1160 Mill Rd. Mattituck
Landscape Adventure - Sound Ave Mattituck
Long Island Perennial Farm - Reeves Ave Riverhead
Talmage Farm - 2975 Sound Avenue Riverhead
Hitherbrook Nursery - 559 Route 25A St. James


clipped on: 11.11.2013 at 10:17 pm    last updated on: 11.11.2013 at 10:17 pm

RE: Insect problem 2 (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: rhodyman on 05.28.2008 at 04:28 pm in Azalea & Rhododendron Forum

Many and not just insects. Natural enemies of lace bugs (predators, parasites, diseases) include assassin bugs, green lacewing larvae, lady beetles, jumping spiders, pirate bugs, predaceous mites, a trichogrammatid wasp, a mymarid wasp, predatory thrips, an insect-killing fungus (Beauveria bassiana), and other diseases.


clipped on: 11.01.2013 at 09:56 pm    last updated on: 11.01.2013 at 09:56 pm

RE: Has anybody tried baking soda to prevent powdery mildew (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: gardengal48 on 10.01.2013 at 05:23 pm in Hydrangea Forum

This is essentially the same as the Cornell Formula, a fungicide developed by a plant pathologist at Cornell University some 30-40 years ago. Unfortunately, via word of mouth and the Internet, the precise formulation has morphed into something other than the original and these 'revised' recipes may not have the same impact and can even become harmful to plants.

The correct formulation is 2-3 tsp. of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) to 1G of water with 1 tsp. insecticidal or castile soap (not dish soap or detergent) and/or 1 tsp. horticultural oil (vegetable oil works as well). The baking soda actually alters the pH of the leaf surface, making it inhospitable to the survival of the fungal spores (milk accomplishes much the same process). The oil and soap act as surfactants, helping the mixture adhere to the foliage. You do not necessarily need to add both, however. It is as effective as any other commercial fungicide when mixed and applied properly

Newer research has indicated that potassium bicarbonate is somewhat more effective than the baking soda - baking soda just is a lot simpler to get one's hands on. And it is important to remember that like virtually all other fungicides, this is a preventative, not a curative. It can help to keep the disease from spreading to unaffected foliage but will not remove or eliminate any existing problems.

And it is always a good practice to combine a spray for powdery mildew together with good cultural controls that limit the incidence of the disease in the first place.


clipped on: 10.10.2013 at 09:53 pm    last updated on: 10.10.2013 at 09:53 pm

RE: Pond maintenance (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: pashta_2006 on 07.18.2010 at 05:39 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

I use only Stress Coat to condition new water before I add it to the pond and MicrobLift. The MicrobLift must work really well because I never have gunk on the botttom of the pond even when I am negligent about removing leaves etc



clipped on: 09.01.2013 at 10:43 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2013 at 10:43 pm

RE: Chokeberries and Popular Bird Fruit (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: roseunhip on 08.19.2003 at 02:27 pm in Wildlife Garden Forum

Since you are an elderberry completist, don't forget that you owe it to yourself (and of course to the birdies) to grow S. pubens (American red elderb.)! It blooms and fruits so early (fruits begin to ripen as early as late June over here), even in the shade, and I can assure you that it grows very quickly too! Hardly needs any watering also, a major plus in this world!!


clipped on: 08.21.2013 at 10:33 pm    last updated on: 08.21.2013 at 10:33 pm

RE: I need help with a completely shady backyard! (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: mamcc on 08.27.2006 at 11:30 pm in Gardening in Shade Forum

Not sure what zone you live in but, in my area ajuga and mazus do fabulous in the shade. I also have a very shady yard and use mazus as a ground cover instead of grass. It grows very thick and bonus - in the spring it has little lavendar flowers.


clipped on: 08.11.2013 at 09:56 pm    last updated on: 08.11.2013 at 09:56 pm

RE: I need help with a completely shady backyard! (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: knottyceltic on 08.19.2006 at 11:31 am in Gardening in Shade Forum

Keep your proverbial glass "half full". Look at your yard like a beautiful "blank canvas" and think positively... you don't need to even REMOVE sod in order to make your gardens.

I agree with the others. Find inexpensive ways to create paths, garden "rooms" and focal point features and you will have the BEST garden on the whole block. Some cities collect Christmas trees and yard waste and provide free compost and wood chips to residents so long as you pick them up. Some cities will even deliver for a small fee. Make yard sale'ing a weekly excursion during summer and you will find awesome little garden features such as fountains, windchimes, plants, pots, bird baths, bird feeders, garden chairs and benches, bird houses and little nick nacks that might suit your taste. Grab nicely shaped/textured rocks from the roadside, attend plant swaps and join the seed swapping forums. Watch the paper for residents having plant sales and churches selling perennials/annuals to raise money. Make a friend in your neighbourhood who loves gardening and you can make swaps. Before you know it your garden will be a showpiece! :o)

The variety of shade plants you can use are abundant and just because it's shade, doesn't mean that you can have loads of colour as well. Even plants who's flowers aren't that particularly "gorgeous" can have the most interesting foliages that you don't need the flowers for them to put on a good show.

Here are just a sampling of all the wonderful plants/shrubs you can place in your backyard which is fully shaded:


Bleeding Hearts
Ferns (hundreds of varieties)
Hostas (hundreds of varieties)
Columbines (hundreds of varieties, shapes, sizes, colours etc)
Coral Bells
Solomon's Seals (several varieties)
May Apple
Jacob's Ladder
Pulmonarias (great varieties to choose from and super foliage)
Toad Lilies
Globe Flowers
Wild Ginger
Cardinal Flower
Asiatic Lilies (can grow in filtered shade)
Foxglove (can take dappled shade)
Lady's Mantle
Spiderwort (dappled shade)
Lily of the valley (caution: can get out of control)
Virginia Bluebells
Mosses (great for little "fairy garden features" or pond areas)
Bugleweed (good for groundcover but can spread too far)

Then there are shade ANNUALS:

Coleus (large varieties of size and colour combos)
Elephant Ears
Bachellor Buttons

***I'm not an annual gardener so others may be able to add to the list***

SHRUBS for shade... here are a few that I have in my woodland garden:

Highbush Cranberry
Silky Dogwood
Pagoda/Alternate Leaf Dogwood
Redbud (large shrub/small tree depending on how you prune it)
Winged Sumac
Arrow Wood Viburnum

***I'm a native gardener so these are all natives to my region that do well in full shade***

Have fun with your project and update us with photos as you work on the yard.

southern Ontario, CANADA


clipped on: 08.11.2013 at 09:53 pm    last updated on: 08.11.2013 at 09:54 pm

RE: Rocks in the pond (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: mike_il on 05.30.2010 at 02:29 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

Yes for a short time rocks on the bottom of the pond look very nice but they do collect debri. Most of the bacteria products on the market were designed for ponds with rock on the bottom of the pond. They are designed to take larger debri and break it down into smaller debri so that it isn't noticeable any longer. And if you have water circulating thru this rock it is not a problem as the good bacteria will take care of it. Without this circulation you will get HS produced. In small amounts it will stress fish, in a little larger amount it will cause the fish to die, and in a little larger amount it will kill the fish in a few seconds or it will kill people in seconds and it has. A pond with proper circulation normally will not have a problem with HS as the water will not hold very much of it and it would be released into the air very quickly. Where ponders have a problem is having HS and not having the circulation. Such as when ponders shut the pumps off to clean the pond or when the pumps are shut off during the winter. One company that started the craze of putting rock on the bottom of the pond first said that the pond never needed to be cleaned. After the first year in business they came out with bacteria to add to the pond so the debri wasn't noticeable any longer. But this company was located in the Chicago area and ponds got shut down during the winter. After the company was in business for about three years they started to hear that some of the ponds that they put in when they first started had all the fish die during the winter. They didn't think anything about it. The next spring they heard that more of the ponds they put in the first year and some of the ponds they put in the second year had all the fish die. The fifth year in business and the same problems they determined that the ponds they built needed to be cleaned and they went into that business every spring. After promoting the fact their ponds didn't need to be cleaned they now promoted cleaning their ponds. They developed the method of power washing the rock and sold it as a way of making the pond look like new and that it should be done every year. Does it have to be cleaned every year? No. But anything past two years and you are gambling with the fishes lives.
Does ccoombs1 have to remove the rock from the top edge of the pond to have a safe pond? No. If they did nothing what would happen. Yes some HS would be produced but at the edge it would be released into the air very quickly without getting into the water column. Even in a northern climate where ice can cover most of the pond it would not be a problem as the edge of the pond is going to be the first area to freeze and trap the HS there. Ccoombs1 has some very nice fish and doesn't want to take a chance with them. If they didn't mind clouding up the water for a while I would suggest taking the garden hose and putting it behind a small section of rock and flushing the debri into the pond. The small amount of HS would not be a problem. They could then every day move to another small section and continue the process until they have gone all the way around the pond. If they do that every year the next would not cloud the water up as there would not be much debri to wash out.
Can you have rock on the bottom without cleaning? Yes. My koi pond has rock on bottom and has never been cleaned or emptied. The pond is now 19 years old and the 6" thick gravel on the bottom looks as clean as the day it was put in and is as clean. No bacteria has ever been added to the pond and there is no debri build up or algae on this rock. But that story is for another book.


clipped on: 08.07.2013 at 11:29 pm    last updated on: 08.07.2013 at 11:29 pm

RE: Can aquatic forget-me-not grow between waterfall crevices? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: jalal on 05.29.2010 at 05:57 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

Hi again. While searching for good vege filter or filtration plants I found a site that talked about forget-me-not in waterfalls. Site said excellant plant for growing between rocks--just plant bare root as long as plant gets some water from waterfall the roots will trap waste and grow. Hope this helps. Patti


clipped on: 08.06.2013 at 10:12 pm    last updated on: 08.06.2013 at 10:12 pm

RE: Can aquatic forget-me-not grow between waterfall crevices? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jalal on 05.29.2010 at 10:54 am in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

I've grown it just below the waterfall but in a pot. I have used Irish moss inbetween the wet rock crevices and it grew like crazy. Didn't overwinter though but that's just my climate as sometimes it overwinters sometimes not. Also have used parrot feather and creeping jenny in between rocks in waterfall--creeping jenny did better than the parrots feather. I think the parrots feather prefers more water than what it got in those areas.


clipped on: 08.06.2013 at 10:10 pm    last updated on: 08.06.2013 at 10:10 pm

RE: Pond Vacs (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: tootseug on 05.27.2013 at 03:07 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

Wanted to post a follow-up on my Pondovac4. It's now been 2 years that I've owned and used it. I am as in love with it as the first time I used it. Absolutely a great purchase for me! Highly recommended.


clipped on: 08.04.2013 at 10:53 pm    last updated on: 08.04.2013 at 10:54 pm

RE: In my pond this morning (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: Glitterati-GA7b on 07.01.2013 at 04:14 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

Hi chas,

Sorry for my delay in responding. Life's been pretty busy with the lack of rain and keeping everything watered. Finally, some rain today.

Anyway, a carnivore planting should consist of nothing but peat moss. Put it in a pot, basket, portion of the stream, etc. and plant the carnivores directly into the peat. You want the peat placed so that it stays wet at all times, but wetter near then bottom than the top, and certainly no standing water OVER the top.

The rule with carnivores is "feet wet, ankles dry" for success.

If planting in a stream, you want to create a bog, where water enters and exits very slowing, and certainly not in running water. You want water to seep in, keeping the peat wet. Never let the peat moss dry out.


clipped on: 08.04.2013 at 10:45 pm    last updated on: 08.04.2013 at 10:45 pm

Lipstick (or is it Paris)? Either way, great flowers

posted by: rouge21 on 07.16.2013 at 09:18 am in Perennials Forum

I know we all say we like foliage for those shady location but it is nice to have both. This heuchera has had these reblooming dark pink flowers since spring. It is a great heuchera for on going flowering. This plant gets no direct sun and lots of shade.


clipped on: 07.16.2013 at 12:27 pm    last updated on: 07.16.2013 at 12:27 pm

RE: name that plant (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: muffienh on 07.06.2013 at 04:48 pm in Name That Plant Forum

Try diluted milk. I didn't believe it, when someone here rec it, but I tried it on my peonies, never had it again. Tried it on Queen Elizabeth rose, same result. Think they used skim milk.


clipped on: 07.06.2013 at 10:37 pm    last updated on: 07.06.2013 at 10:37 pm

RE: Tree fertilizer (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: lou_midlothian_tx on 07.01.2013 at 05:09 pm in Trees Forum

Throw cheap organic fertilizer like soybean meal, alfalfa pellets from animal feed store on the ground then spread compost. That will improve soil biology (improved cycling nutrients to the roots). 3 inches of mulch will also help a lot.


clipped on: 07.06.2013 at 01:46 pm    last updated on: 07.06.2013 at 01:46 pm

Moving a large fully leafed out Hosta -- lots o pix

posted by: ken_adrian on 06.05.2007 at 02:15 pm in Hosta Forum

well .. time for this one again .... i am sure you wont mind ... since i renamed my files.. i had to start a new post ... enjoy ....

you will need a rope .. like clothes line ... masking tape ... shovel ... pruning shears .... a strong back ... hose and water ...
water the hosta well in advance so it is in prime shape for moving ....

here is marion bachman before we start

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

take the clothes line ... and get it under the hosta .. and draw it tight about halfway up the petioles .. leaf stems ... draw it as tight as you can without breaking too many leaves ....
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

then take the masking tape and tape the petioles above or below the rope .... do not have fear ...

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

go dig the hole in the new place ....
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

proceed to dig at least half way out from where the edge of the canopy was ... with the caveat that you have to be able to lift the darn thing after its out ...

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

dig/cut a circle around the whole hosta .... and then 'pop' it out ... hoping there arent any tree roots to frustrate the procedure ... i never go more than one shovel depth ... which means you will be real close on the proper depth of the new hole ...
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

once loose ... lift and drop the plant twice, to remove any excess soil that might fall off ... you can use the bound leaves to grab the plant to move it around .... apparently sand falls off rather easily ...

drag the plant to the new hole and throw it in .... water it well and backfill and water again ...

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

remove the rope, but leave the tape there ... it will hold the leaves up until the roots start pumping water ... the process causes a loss of turgidity ... loss of water pressure to hold up the leaves .... in a week or two the tape will loosen itself, and you can remove it then ....

keep watering well ....

the tape will fall of in a week or 2 depending on heat and rain ... or you can remove it after you are sure the leaves will not flop ......

prune off any broken leaves ... after the tape falls off ...

water, water, water .... and she will look just like she did before the move.. weird but i cant find a picture of it settled in afterwards .... you will just have to take my word for it ....

bottom line .. they are hosta .. have no fear ... just teach them who is in charge .. and you will have a wonderful garden ...

good luck


clipped on: 07.02.2013 at 10:52 pm    last updated on: 07.02.2013 at 10:52 pm

RE: epimediums (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: Geoforce on 08.01.2005 at 09:20 am in Gardening in Shade Forum

I have been good friends with Darrell for years (his mother-in-law is my neighbor) and have visited he and his wife Karen several times. Up to now I have over 30 different ones with some more due in a month or so for Fall delivery. I have never lost a plant from his garden. My favorite for long bloom and grace is E. stellulatum but for color, you can't beat E. grandiflorum "Yubae" which is dark like "Mars". E davidii is a long-blooming yellow flowered species. I'm getting more every year as they seem indestructible.



clipped on: 06.30.2013 at 01:01 pm    last updated on: 06.30.2013 at 01:01 pm

RE: peony season (and other things....) (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: woodyoak on 06.16.2013 at 02:14 pm in Perennials Forum

Flopping is an issue with the doubles for sure - but I got tired of flimsy peony rings and, in 2011, made my own, sturdier ones using flexible copper tubing, 14" sections of copper pipe, copper T connections and some wooden pegs to fit inside the copper tubing to join it in a circle. They work great for holding the plants up. The shiny copper rapidly fades to brown and pretty much vanishes against the foliage. By using longer - or shorter - sections of pipe you can make the support as tall or short as you need. Since the pipes are just inserted in the T connectors without being 'glued' in any way, it's easy to swap out the pipes for a different height if you need to. I leave the rings in place in the winter and they're sturdy enough not to be flattened by the snow.

The materials:
Image Hosting by

A ring complete exceft for joining the circle (that's not me in the photo....)
Image Hosting by

a ring in place in the driveway border:
Image Hosting by

If you look closely on the left side of the picture at the top of the thread of the Bowl of Beauty (?) in the driveway border , you can see a bit of the support ring.


clipped on: 06.17.2013 at 06:09 pm    last updated on: 06.17.2013 at 06:09 pm

RE: Plants you used to think 'meh...' whose value you now recogni (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: wieslaw59 on 06.08.2013 at 01:01 pm in Perennials Forum

Meconopsis cambrica. They are much longer lived than Iceland poppies, and they thrive both in sun and in shade. Can you imagine cheerful yellow, orange and red Iceland poppies growing in shade ?! I love them in spite of selfsowing. I keep the doubles and weed out the singles.


clipped on: 06.16.2013 at 10:37 pm    last updated on: 06.16.2013 at 10:37 pm

RE: What perennials are looking the best in your July-August Gard (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: gardenweed_z6a on 08.05.2011 at 06:24 am in Perennials Forum

In addition to those mentioned above, these are blooming now in my garden:

agastache rupestris
blackberry lily
balloon flower
lobelia cardinalis
lobelia syphilitica

The toad lily should begin blooming in a few weeks. For some reason one of my snakeroots is blooming now while the other just a few feet away only has small buds on it so far. The bees love it.


clipped on: 06.09.2013 at 01:03 pm    last updated on: 06.09.2013 at 01:03 pm

RE: What perennials are looking the best in your July-August Gard (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: echinaceamaniac on 08.04.2011 at 08:46 pm in Perennials Forum

Other great plants for Zone 7...

Echinacea 'Hot Summer' - A must have plant! Stand out beauty! Still blooming in record heat.

Echinacea 'Pica Bella'
Echinacea 'Flame Thrower'
Echinacea 'Pow Wow Wild Berry'
Echinacea 'Fragrant Angel'


clipped on: 06.09.2013 at 01:02 pm    last updated on: 06.09.2013 at 01:02 pm

RE: Blue Paradise Phlox - I got the last one! (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: lisa33 on 05.26.2010 at 10:19 am in Cottage Garden Forum

That is so sweet. Congrats on getting the last one! I have 'Blue Paradise' too. I can't remember how blue it was, but I do remember that it was lovely. Of the four or so that I have, 'Blue Paradise' and 'David' are my favorites. Poor 'David' is behind my KO roses and is going to be moved. All of my Phlox (except for 'David' tend to have their lower leaves get wilty, yellow and die. Any idea what the problem is there? It's happening already again this year.



clipped on: 06.09.2013 at 10:12 am    last updated on: 06.09.2013 at 10:12 am

RE: Stink or soldier bug - how do you tell? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: squonnk on 08.25.2007 at 10:10 am in Garden Clinic Forum

The "shoulders" of the spined soldier bug are thinner and the points extend out farther in proportion to the body than they do on the stink bug. Also, the tips of the wings have brown spots. When the wings are folded, it looks like one spot at the very center of the back of the bug.

Spined soldier bug:

Stink bug:


clipped on: 06.01.2013 at 10:38 pm    last updated on: 06.01.2013 at 10:39 pm

RE: Help w/ climbing cutworm (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: nhbabs on 07.13.2006 at 10:08 am in Azalea & Rhododendron Forum

I use a combination of strategies for cutworms. Like morz8 I go out at night with a flashlight, but that's mostly in my veggie garden where it's easy to see the cutworms. I use barriers around stems - plastic cups set upside down with bottoms cut out and the rim just below soil level (with rhodies be careful not to damage shallow roots) as the cutworms seem to realize that plastic isn't edible - they don't climb over them. Because cutworms are actually caterpillars of clearwing moths, you can use the bacteria Bacillus thuringensis (You sprinkle or spray it on the plant, the caterpillar eats it with the leaf and then as it is infected it stops feeding anld dies.) It is organic and isn't harmful to anything other than caterpillars. If you use tanglefoot, don't put it directly on the stem, put a layer of something like foil and then the tanglefoot on top of it since it's impossible to get off.


clipped on: 05.25.2013 at 10:59 pm    last updated on: 05.25.2013 at 10:59 pm

RE: The burning bush from hell (euonymus) (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: jean001a on 05.19.2013 at 11:37 pm in Shrubs Forum

Triclopyr is more effective against woodies than is glyphosate.


clipped on: 05.20.2013 at 10:18 pm    last updated on: 05.20.2013 at 10:18 pm

RE: sharing from photobucket (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ken_adrian on 05.19.2013 at 07:16 pm in Name That Plant Forum

in photobucket.. copy the HTML code.. and paste it right here where you type ...

on preview.. if you see it.. we will see it ...

with PB you can put multiple pix in one post .;..



clipped on: 05.19.2013 at 10:46 pm    last updated on: 05.19.2013 at 10:46 pm

RE: Plant No. 3 (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: esh_ga on 12.06.2012 at 08:58 am in Name That Plant Forum

Non-native viburnums have red berries, non-native honeysuckle shrubs have red berries, native hollies have red berries ... a picture would help.


clipped on: 12.07.2012 at 09:56 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2013 at 04:40 pm

Underused Perennials

posted by: ispahan on 05.06.2013 at 11:46 pm in Perennials Forum

There was previously a lengthy and wonderfully useful thread on this forum about the many wonderful perennials out there that are not often seen or used due to being out of fashion, difficult to grow and/or sell in nursery containers, slow to establish or just simply not well known.

What perennials (including bulbs, grasses, ferns, etc., as well as traditional herbaceous perennials) do you all think should be used more often?

My list would include the following:

1. Many of the so-called minor bulbs like winter aconites, snowdrops, puschkinia, Corydalis solida, hepatica and wood anemones (Anemone nemorosa and A. ranunculoides). It is hard to obtain viable, good quality stock of these plants but they can be spectacular once growing and multiplying.
2. Erythroniums
3. Trilliums of all types
4. Ranunculus aconitifolius 'Flore Pleno' aka Fair Maids of France
5. Natives like Mertensia virginica, Stylophorum diphyllum, Geranium maculatum, Phlox divaricata, Phlox stolonifera, Uvularia grandiflora and spring beauties (Claytonia virginica)
6. Native alliums like A. cernuum and A. stellatum as well as rhizomatous hybrids like 'Milennium'.
7. Lycoris
8. Native, shade-loving, fall asters like Aster divaricatus and A. cordifolius.
9. Martagon lilies
10. Anemone 'Honorine Jobert', probably my favorite fall perennial.
11. Smaller narcissus like Narcissus pseudonarcissus and 'W. P. Milner' (the latter opens pale lemon yellow and then slowly fades to creamy, silvery, glowing white). Both of these are shorter than most daffodils and have foliage that is far less conspicuous than the larger types.
12. Hosta plantaginea. Perhaps it is too elegant to be taken seriously as a "real" hosta, lol?
13. Pasqueflowers (Pulsatilla).

So that is my baker's dozen. What other treasures would you add?


clipped on: 05.11.2013 at 10:31 pm    last updated on: 05.11.2013 at 10:31 pm

RE: Getting rid of Ivy (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: nyrabbit on 09.20.2008 at 01:52 pm in Woodlands Forum

I got so aggrevated at the ivy that kept popping up & choking my dogwoods, I grabbed the first sprayer I could find. It was a bottle of Lime-Away, & IT WORKED !! Killed the ivy by next day, & it never came back. Be sure to just spray the leaves of the ivy, & don't get too much in the ground or on anything else. After it withers, just pull it out from your good plants.


clipped on: 03.14.2013 at 10:29 pm    last updated on: 04.27.2013 at 03:27 pm

RE: Creeping phlox driving me crazy...... (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: Phlox99 on 06.15.2004 at 09:31 pm in Woodlands Forum

Yes, Phlox subulata along with Phlox paniculata, Phlox carolina and even Phlox divaricata (often also called woodland phlox), do better in the sun. The only reliable phlox I've seen for shade is as mentioned above, Phlox stolonifera.

Phlox subulata often looks better if you shear it right after it blooms. Then it flushes with new green growth that looks pretty good the rest of the season.


clipped on: 04.17.2013 at 10:34 pm    last updated on: 04.17.2013 at 10:34 pm

RE: Campanula (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: campanula on 04.08.2013 at 03:33 pm in Perennials Forum

The carpathian bellflowers will flower fairly continuously, from early July till Aug/ long as you continue to deadhead. The Birch hybrid has C.portenschlagiana in its lineage and will flower earlier than the Blue Clips. After blooming, you can shear back the straggly growth for another blooming in September (a bit of liquid fertiliser helps to pump out more flowering growth). Birch hybrid tends to be much smaller, only reaching around 6inches, whereas the Carpathian campanula will make a 1foot high and wide cushion. Birch Hybrid tends to have a much deeper and more saturated blue - the carpathians tend to be slightly more pastel in colour.
As you may have guessed, Campanulas have always been a favourite for me, although I favour the taller perennials such as C.persicifolia, C,trachelium and C.latiloba.
An easy and cheerful genus.


clipped on: 04.09.2013 at 10:18 pm    last updated on: 04.09.2013 at 10:18 pm

RE: Perennials for Summer? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: echinaceamaniac on 05.30.2012 at 05:00 pm in Perennials Forum

Gaillardias bloom all summer. Helenium 'Double Trouble' is a sterile hybrid Helenium that blooms a very long time. Coreopsis 'Creme Br�l�e' blooms most of June and July here. Russian Sage blooms all summer too.

Instead of eliminating such great plants from your list, I'd try to find out why such strong perennials won't grow for you.


clipped on: 04.08.2013 at 01:44 pm    last updated on: 04.08.2013 at 01:44 pm

RE: Which perennial do you love too much? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: a2zmom on 06.13.2012 at 01:48 pm in Perennials Forum

It's not so much that I plant multiples of plants I adore (I don't really have the space), but some plants get babied a lot more than others.


I normally don't water plants. My attitude is deal with whatever Mother Nature is dlivering. My astilbe does not get that treatment. Last August it was extremely hot and dry. During the worst of it, I watered my astilbe every single day (and I'm talking a half gallon of water, slowly poured into the base).

Penstemon. Man, I love penstemon. But I have clay soil. So to plant them, I literally dug out a huge hole, threw a hadful of river stone in the bottom of the planting hole and then mixed the clay with half again as much sand. I then mulched with more river rock. Pretty back breaking all in all.

But my Penstemon Red Riding Hood has come back two years in a row, more gorgeous and full each year. Have a picture!


clipped on: 04.07.2013 at 10:18 pm    last updated on: 04.07.2013 at 10:18 pm

RE: non photoshopped pics of new plants (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: echinaceamaniac on 03.01.2012 at 09:07 am in Perennials Forum

I think I'll just grow Gaillardias when I want yellow, red, and orange colors. They bloom over a longer period of time and they are tough plants! I have winter-sowed seeds of all the different colors this year. The Sombrero Echinaceas are just tissue cultured selections out of the fields where they grow the seed variety Cheyenne Spirit. The seeds are expensive and hard to find this year, but I bet next year they will be easy to get. I know the Gaillardias will perform better than those, however. I've seen them start blooming in the first week of March before and they go right through the first frost.


clipped on: 04.05.2013 at 09:54 pm    last updated on: 04.05.2013 at 09:54 pm

RE: Connoisseur Perennials? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: ispahan on 07.05.2012 at 06:34 pm in Perennials Forum

Awesome idea! I think anything with the description "slow to establish" is worthy of consideration. These are the kinds of plants that most instant gratification-type gardeners will tend to avoid.

Some of my favorite connoisseur plants:

Dodecatheon meadia
Gillenia trifoliata
Orienpet/OT lilies
Martagon lilies (species and hybrids)
Lycoris (squamigera, chinensis, sprengeri, longituba)
Cephalaria gigantea
Geranium pratense 'Violaceum Plenum'
Crambe maritima

All of the above can take 2-3 seasons to really start showing what they are capable of Also, nothing in my world says "class" better than naturalized minor bulbs.

The Itoh peonies are fabulous! I planted 'Bartzella' this spring but, of course, it hasn't done much yet ;-)


clipped on: 04.04.2013 at 10:32 pm    last updated on: 04.04.2013 at 10:32 pm

RE: Which perennials are making you happy right now? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: echinaceamaniac on 06.30.2012 at 01:04 am in Perennials Forum

Here are my Top 10 Plants in this terrible Summer weather!
1.) Helenium 'Mardi Gras'
2.) Hesperaloe parviflora 'Brakelights'
3.) Delosperma dyeri
4.) Delosperma 'Lavender Ice'
5.) Coreopsis 'Creme Brulee'
6.) Echinacea 'Burgundy Fireworks'
7.) Helenium 'Tiny Dancer'
8.) Yucca 'Color Guard'
9.) Delosperma cooperi
10.) Agastache hybrida 'Acapulco Trio'


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RE: Purple Balloon flowers - who has experience? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: mxk3 on 07.16.2012 at 05:28 pm in Perennials Forum

I love "Sentimental Blue" - a truly short plant that stays short yet has very large flowers in proportion to the plant and oh the color! The foliage stays nice and nothing bothers them (insects or diseases) that I've ever noticed. Great edging plant. I also have the taller cultivars - I think they are "Astra" series bout not sure. Like those as well, but they do need some sort of support or will flop.

These puppies are long-lived as far as I can tell and TOUGH plants, I've had the same clumps the entire time I've been at this house, 13 years. "They" say you shouldn't move them because of the tap root...pfffttt - I've moved mine around the yard so many times I can't even count and like I said, they're still going...


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RE: Purple Balloon flowers - who has experience? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: lisah on 07.16.2012 at 01:56 pm in Perennials Forum

The more sun they can get, the better. With too much shade they tend to get leggy and floppy. In sun they're a great perennial--bloom a long time and are hardly bothered by any pests (except rabbits seem to like them!)


clipped on: 04.02.2013 at 10:03 pm    last updated on: 04.02.2013 at 10:04 pm

RE: Good privacy shrub/tree in a shady, heavily wooded area? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: woods_man on 03.30.2013 at 01:09 pm in Gardening in Shade Forum

Viburnums might also do the trick - shade tolerant, and blooms as a bonus. Some deciduous shrubs create very dense growth which can act as a barrier even though not evergreen. I have deutzias in dense shade which have created a very dense thicket and bloom surprisingly well in shade. Kerria, neviusia, & neillia have also developed impressively thick growth. These shrubs are generally 5-6ft tall - and all of them are fast growers, at least for my zone 6b midwestern woodland.


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RE: I am head over heels in love with Echinacea 'Mama Mia' (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: pam_whitbyon on 07.24.2012 at 11:11 pm in Perennials Forum

Thanks! Yes, I'm prone to bold colors this year after such a drab display I had last year. I love how this particular color looks en masse. So I either have to spend $$ and fill it out or wait for it to spread. I'm tempted to buy a couple more.

@rouge21, I'm not sure why I thought that. I remember reading about someone else here who was sceptical and asked the question, but I've read in some places that it's hardy to zone 4. My tag says zone 5. Regardless I think I will be ok, although I lost my beloved Harvest Moon - it never came back this year.

Here it is, it was a small plant that never really grew as big as the pink ones but it stood out so gracefully from everything around it. RIP, Harvest Moon.



Note title
clipped on: 03.30.2013 at 10:06 pm    last updated on: 03.30.2013 at 10:07 pm

Penstemon 'Sweet Joanne'

posted by: echinaceamaniac on 08.29.2011 at 07:37 am in Perennials Forum

Penstemon 'Sweet Joanne'

This plant blooms over and over. I'm impressed that it is constantly in bloom. I've never seen a Penstemon bloom so long. It does get floppy, but this was a first year plant and I'm still impressed. I will be planting more of these. It's so easily rooted in a glass of water near a window!


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RE: Anyone growing Helenium 'Red Jewel'? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: tuliper on 07.28.2012 at 05:57 pm in Perennials Forum

I planted "Red jewel" in early June, and it is now beginning to bloom. It's a very deep red with no yellow or orange whatsoever. Its almost so saturated that from across the garden it blends in. It has just popped open a few blooms so I will post pictures next week when it's in full flush. I will say that this cultivar Red jewel is sold as a vibrant fuchsia/hot pink with PURPLE centers, but mine is a dark rich burgundy with handsome brown center which I luckily like a lot. It's been extremely drought resistant for not being an established plant in full sun, especially since I've read they like generous moisture their first year. My helenium is about 3 feet tall and has an attractive compact habit. To encourage rebloom I've been advised to shear back to half stature when blooms are fading.


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RE: starting to do better re plant placement (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: roxanna on 08.01.2012 at 01:06 pm in Perennials Forum

rouge ~ Thalictrum 'Splendide' is one of my favorite perennials!! i've had it (2 plants actually, the third one didn't make it) for the past 3 years, and love it more and more. so graceful, airy and charming. and it blooms for a very long time, if you count the bud stage and i do -- i love the little round spheres before they open almost more than the fully opened bloom. it is a very tall plant in bloom, over 7 feet for me, and just lovely in the gardens. it's late in popping up in the spring, and every year i hold my breath to see if it survived another winter, lol. so far, so good!


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RE: Treating scale on large, very-leafy plants? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: exoticrainforest on 09.01.2010 at 01:33 pm in House Plants Forum

The spray I use works almost on contact. The mixture of oil and Pyrethrin prevent the insect from breathing and is capable of doing the same for most eggs. If you wet it well, it will work. I also grow many pendent leaf aroids with long thin blades as well as a variety of ferns and other plants that grow precisely as you described.

The mix I use is available on the net for $36 per quart bottle but you can easily mix it yourself. Since I use it every season for the small amount that manages to come into the atrium from outside I make it up one quart at a time but that quart bottle will last me 2 seasons and I've got tons of plants.

Be sure you mix it in advance and then use a small amount to make up a one gallon sprayer. Be sure and mix thoroughly. A small bottle of Pyrethrin can be bought in a farm store for under $6 and will last for 10 years. A bottle of Canola oil (one quart) is less than $2. Mix about one tablespoon of the Pyrethrin into the entire bottle of Canola oil and shake well every time you use it.

Put a couple of Tablespoons of the concentrate in a one gallon sprayer and mix it with warm water. Shake well as you spray. Mark your bottle well so you don't cook with it! When I make up a quart it will last more than two seasons in my atrium. I use the same stuff if I see anything suspicious. The oil and Pyrethrin make it impossible for an insect to breathe and it will die in minutes.

The entire spray mix will vanish into the atmosphere in an hour or two leaving no serious trace.

I know tons of members of the aroid society that use this with great success but if you prefer another method it is only presented as an option. If you choose to try it use it persistently until all chance of any living eggs is gone.



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Verbena and hummingbirds

posted by: katefisher on 08.11.2012 at 09:20 pm in Perennials Forum

Last night my husband and I went to our county fair and visited the section where people make their own little mini gardens. It's an outdoor exhibit and each one is judged. At two of the exhibits there were flowers planted that someone told me were verbana. The hummingbirds were all over them. It was so neat! I have never grown verbena before. Are they all just as enticing to those little guys or is one variety in particular better? Thank you.



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RE: Plant Identification Help (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: purpleinopp on 08.29.2012 at 12:25 pm in Perennials Forum

There is also Eupatorium coelestinum to consider, a native option that should be hardy where you are. This says it can get 3 feet tall but I've never seen that in person. It's usually about 12-18". If your CM is a tree form, that might work for you.

Here is a link that might be useful: Google of images of Eupatorium coelestinum


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RE: Thalictrum you like (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: twrosz on 08.30.2012 at 11:39 pm in Perennials Forum

Here's my Thalictrum 'Splendide' (photo a bit over exposed) plant is a giant at well over 7 ft high and topped with a massive 3 x 3 head of bloom, it's quite an amazing and much admired plant! I think I'm gonna carefully divide it next spring and hope to make an additional two more plants.




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RE: Moving Coreopsis Plants (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: GreenHavenGarden on 09.12.2012 at 07:50 am in Perennials Forum

I just moved a bunch myself this week that were still looking beautiful and flowering. I'm in zone 6 CT. Usually I cut back perennials when I move them if they are in flower but I didn't this time bc I got lazy. The coreopsis did not skip a beat. They still look wonderful. Some of the easiest plants I have ever seen. I have 6 different kinds. I'd have to look up the tags to remember exactly which though.


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RE: Plant ID and Powdery Mildew Help (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: lisanti07028 on 09.15.2012 at 04:52 pm in Perennials Forum

The pips are the buds for next year's growth; take a look at the first picture in the link below - the little pink/red things are the pips, and they should be just barely below ground level.

Peonies are heavy feeders, and should be fed a couple of times during the year; I like Plant-Tone myself, but every so often I give mine a shot of non-organic 10-10-10.

Here is a link that might be useful: look at first picture


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This persicaria brightens a dark corner

posted by: rouge21 on 09.13.2012 at 05:51 pm in Perennials Forum

I so love this plant in my garden. The leaves are arrow head shaped, foliage is bright and the flowers are long lasting. As well this particular persicaria ("Golden Arrow") is well-behaved. These two plants were previously in a too sunny location. I moved both first year plants in late July and they have thrived in this much more shady environment.


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RE: Recommended Echinacea please! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mxk3 on 09.29.2012 at 01:54 pm in Perennials Forum

I'm in Michigan, so not sure what will work for my climate will work in yours - but "Magnus" and "White Swan" are tough, reliable performers for me. :0)


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RE: Do these Combinations Work! (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: wieslaw59 on 10.04.2012 at 04:45 pm in Perennials Forum

In my opinion , the north side of a house without trees is a place where you can make your most beautiful garden of all, provided there is open sky above. The choice of plants who would love such placing is long, one plant more beautiful than the other. Just some to consider: Lilium martagon, Rhododendrons, Uvularia, Kirengeshoma, Podophyllum, Smilacina, Polygonatum, Aconitum, Disporum, Actea, Brunnera, Trillium, Trycirtys, Trollius, Dicentra, Rodgersia, Deinanthe, Anemone nemorosa, Primula, Epimedium, Corydalis, Clematis macropetala and many others.


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RE: No more coneflowers for me (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: mxk3 on 08.26.2012 at 10:52 am in Perennials Forum

I have mostly White Swan and Magnus - reliable old standbys. I don't have any of the newer cultivars besides Pow Wow White, which I purchased this year, and Pink Poodle - which most people classified as a dud but I really like it.

With any plants I figure I can't go wrong with the old iron horses, they've been around a long time for a reason whereas I'm generally fairly wary of new introductions.

If you get insect infestations - well, that's not the fault of the plant, it just is what it is and unfortunately it happens, so, yea - if coneflowers are a problem in that regard then perhaps you're better off with something else.


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RE: My Penstemon is slowly...dying? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: SunnyBorders on 09.08.2012 at 03:17 pm in Perennials Forum

Find penstemons very attractive perennials, but over twenty years, I've found they generally do very poorly in our garden, lasting no more than a few years.

Must have tried to grow well over two dozen different types (species and hybrids).

The few that did survive and that are still doing well, after five or more years are: Penstemon barbatus 'Coccineus', P. digitalis 'Husker Red', P. hirsutus 'Pygmaeus', P. pinifolius and P. strictus.

I've put my general lack of success with penstemons down to our alkaline soil.


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RE: Alstroemeria: How hardy? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: kimka on 10.31.2012 at 01:46 pm in Perennials Forum

There are two distinct groups. One is completely tropical and only hardy to zone 8 and the other hardy to zone 7 or zone 6, depending on the variety. Edelweiss Perennials has a good selection of the hardiest. You can always plant them in a pot and bring it in dormant if you don't have a sheltered spot in your garden.

Here is a link that might be useful: Edelweiss Perennials


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RE: favorite perennials that will grow in zone 5 (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: SunnyBorders on 10.29.2012 at 06:03 pm in Perennials Forum

Doesn't fit most of your criteria, but one of my favourite plants, for our area, is culver's root.

The picture is the cultivar Veronicastrum virginicum 'Fascination', that shows fasciation (flower spikes growing along a line rather than to a point).

One of the several things I like about this plant is the fact that the flower spikes (shape) apparently appeals to bees. Trimming off the central spike, after flowering, puts me right in the middle of the bees. They just do their thing and I do mine.


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RE: verbena bonariensis zone 6 (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: mantis__oh on 11.09.2012 at 11:18 pm in Perennials Forum

Much loved by butterflies. But so rampant it can be a nuisance.


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RE: The last plant to flower for you? (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: mantis__oh on 10.22.2012 at 08:17 pm in Perennials Forum

Aster Raydon's Favorite is one of the last here, though geranium Rozanne can be blooming near Thanksgiving. Here is Raydon's Favorite today:


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RE: The last plant to flower for you? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: hostaholic2 on 10.17.2012 at 10:37 am in Perennials Forum

Aster Vivid Dome is in full glorious bloom and we've had several hard frosts including two nights with temps down to 17 and 18 degrees. Hardy geranium Dilys is still blooming as well as perennial verbena Annie.


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RE: The last plant to flower for you? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: ontnative on 10.14.2012 at 08:22 pm in Perennials Forum

One of my last to flower is chrysanthemum Mei-Kyo, a pretty double rose pink. Its blooms haven't opened yet. Another mum Hillside Pink (aka Sheffield) is just starting to bloom now. It has single pale apricot pink flowers. I have another mum Rhumba, which is also just opening.


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The last plant to flower for you?

posted by: rouge21 on 10.14.2012 at 07:31 pm in Perennials Forum

Finally my Monkshood has started. It is the last perennial in my zone 5 garden that had yet to bloom.

(It takes this long in great part due to its location ie it is in a very shady part of the garden...very shady)

So what plant was the last in your garden to finally give forth wonderful flowers?



clipped on: 03.23.2013 at 05:41 pm    last updated on: 03.23.2013 at 05:42 pm

Pics of your best perennial combos 2012

posted by: miclino on 10.14.2012 at 12:42 am in Perennials Forum

Following on a similar thread from last year. Please post pics of your best perennial combos. Rules are the same, must have atleast 3 plants in the picture :) No closeups of flowers only!

I'll start.

Agastache heatwave, centranthus, dahlias and purple fountain grass. The agastache bloomed nonstop from july.

Image Hosted by

Eupatorium pink frost, veronica royal candles and coreopsis showstopper.
Image Hosted by

Stargazer lily, echinacea primadonna and helenium mardi gras
Image Hosted by

Eryngium big blue, double knockout rose and newly planted phlox nora leigh
Image Hosted by

Sedum dazzleberry, sedum autumn charm and gaillardia apricot
Image Hosted by


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RE: what plants have you let behind over the years (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: prairiemoon2 on 01.12.2013 at 09:08 am in Perennials Forum

Thanks Woody, for that suggestion. I do like the single bloom Peonies, I'll have to take a look at them. That's a great combination there with the Heuchera and the JPFern. My 'Palace Purple' didn't look as good as yours. If you are adding more dark Heuchera, I've had good luck with 'Plum Pudding' and 'Frosted Violet'.

rouge21, It really is a great rose, isn't it? Really blooms it's head off and has the cleanest foliage. I do find it is not as fragrant as the David Austin Roses, so I like to have both, and the yellow roses on the 'Julia Child' are a little smaller. I would highly recommend it for anyone who wants to grow roses without spraying.


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RE: Opinions on Loosestrife?! (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: rouge21 on 01.19.2013 at 08:52 am in Perennials Forum

And here I very much like my "Yellow Loosestrife" (Lysimachia punctata). For sure the foliage is nothing to write home about but in bloom there are tons of flowers (actually quite unique i.e. little yellow star like blooms with a light orange centre) lasting 3 to 4 weeks. I have it in a small 'medallion' garden surrounded by interlock so it does not spread. Here is a picture of it from June 2011.

This post was edited by rouge21 on Sun, Jan 20, 13 at 6:04


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RE: Iberis Masterpiece...too good to be true? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: rouge21 on 02.24.2013 at 07:30 am in Perennials Forum

OT boday but I do see you have Tuscan Sun in your order list. I had 5 of these plants in my garden last year, their first year. And as I had posted in 2012 on GW this plant is without peer in terms of number of flowers and duration for flowering...all in a compact form for a Heliopsis and requiring little supplemental water (all of this in just their first year in the ground).

BUT by mid to late August all of them were overrun by aphids...yuck. If there had been no infestation I would rate them as a perfect 10, I will give them another season hoping that first year infestation won't repeat.

This post was edited by rouge21 on Sun, Feb 24, 13 at 9:15


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RE: Blotches on Japanese Kerria Leaves (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: ians_gardener on 07.10.2010 at 07:52 pm in Garden Clinic Forum

The kerria has a Leaf and twig blight (caused by a fungus).
Stem cankers can develop if the blight spreads. You can treat it with a fungicide to try to control the spread or prune out the affected areas......This fungus will not spread to your hydrangeas.....but hydrangeas have their own leaf spot (cercospora)


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RE: Dogwood trouble? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: brandon7 on 07.18.2010 at 05:15 pm in Trees Forum


Once you upload your pictures to a site such as Photobucket, Flickr, etc, find their web address by right clicking on each image and copying the image location. Some sites may even provide your image's location address in a text box below the photo for your convenience.

Let's say, as an example, that the address of the picture you want to post is

To embed the picture into a post, use the command:
<img src="">

If your picture is too large to fit nicely into the text page, you can add a width attribute. The command with the width attribute would look something like:
<img src="" width=600>

Note that I had to use special characters to get the commands above to show up here without turning into pictures, but you can use them as shown (with the correct image web address, of course).

Using this technique, you can place multiple images right into your text post. This will make it much simpler for readers to find and view your pictures. Don't forget the width attribute if your pictures are large. That will keep the text and pictures much easier to view.


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RE: White spots on Coreopsis leaves (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: robitaillenancy1 on 09.02.2010 at 09:09 am in Garden Clinic Forum

You might try a milk/water solution. 1 part milk, 9 parts water. Spray thoroughly.

Powdered milk may work. Coffee whitener did not work for me.



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RE: Spider Mites?? Help!! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: hortster on 06.21.2012 at 08:39 pm in Garden Clinic Forum

First, if they are spider MITES, they are just (literally) dots. To determine if they are mites, give a hard tap to the leaves of the plants over a white piece of paper. If the dots MOVE, they are mites.
If you can identify them as tiny spiders with the naked eye, they are spiders, not mites.
Now, for an UNORTHODOX method of eliminating them: take the specimens OUTSIDE away from flame and spray the undersides as well as the tops of the leaves with methanol or denatured alcohol. It won't hurt the plants but will kill pests. Methanol is FLAMMABLE and burns hot so avoid anything that will ignite it! Gets rid of mites, mealy bugs, anything exposed. Again, UNORTHODOX, but works pretty darn good. Legally, I didn't recommend this!


clipped on: 03.13.2013 at 10:58 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2013 at 10:58 pm

uploading from photobucket

posted by: sluice on 06.11.2009 at 06:46 pm in Conifers Forum

Hints for uploading from photobucket. When you want want to embed a picture into your text message, do the following two steps:

1. "copy" the content of the THIRD BOX on photobucket. It's labeled HTML Code, and contains the letters IMG.
2. "paste" that content directly into your Message.

See photos below.


clipped on: 03.12.2013 at 09:53 pm    last updated on: 03.12.2013 at 09:53 pm

RE: sawfly wasp larva attack red twig dogwood (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: julescap on 04.22.2011 at 09:11 am in Garden Clinic Forum

FYI...I did contact my local state agricultural extension ? office and what they said was that in addition to horticultural oil and insecticidal soaps i could use imidcloprid...sold as Merit..water in in late April,early May. I'm thinking I'm going to go for the big guns d/t the extent of the problem over past few yrs! Hope this helps anyone else who has had the same problem.


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RE: Root weevils or slugs? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: morz8 on 05.18.2011 at 11:19 pm in Garden Clinic Forum

Pictures would be great, the damage would be visually different.

You can do your own sleuthing too though, put on a rain hat, go out after dark with a flashlight and look. If it's slugs, give them an individual spritz with 1 part household ammonia mixed with 3 parts water from a spray bottle, instantly dead and it won't hurt foliage.

Wear a glove and you can pick off weevils, crush.

Climbing cutworms are my caterpillar type foe here, I snip them in half with my oldest pruners.

All three, night feeders.


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RE: Lavender looks dead (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: ken_adrian on 06.03.2012 at 09:19 am in Garden Clinic Forum

see link

Here is a link that might be useful: how to post pix


clipped on: 03.02.2013 at 12:58 pm    last updated on: 03.02.2013 at 12:58 pm

How to Post A Picture (Photo)

posted by: paul_in_mn on 05.09.2011 at 01:32 pm in Hosta Forum

You've finally figured out how to save those goregeous garden photos onto your computer -- well, we'd love to see pictures of your hostas and gardens in this forum - it's very easy to do.

Step 1 - Create an account on a photo hosting website. You need this to upload and store pictures you want to share. Many hosting sites are free to use - I'll use Photobucket as an example.

Step 2 - Uploading your photos. Click the green bar marked Upload now in Photobucket. You now have choices of where picture is coming from(most likely your computer) and where it will be stored(Album), click the green bar marked Select photos and videos.
Select Photos

A popup window with directories appears - locate and select the picture(s) you which to download and click Open. The files will start downloading -- when complete you can add a title and description if you wish -- Press Save and continue to my album
Upload Complete - Save

Step 3 - Copying your stored photo into your message. It is easier to do this if you have a couple of tabs open in your web browser - i.e. Hosta Forum with your message in one tab, Photobucket and your picture in a second tab. Click on photo you just uploaded - photo will get larger and 4 sets of code will appear - for GardenWeb you need the HTML code. Click on either HTML code or the actual line of code to its right -- you should have briefly seen "copied" appear. You can now switch to your message tab - move to the spot where you want photo to appear and paste the HTML code into your message.

Step 4 - Preview Message with Photo - If you see the photo when you preview your message - so will we when you submit the message. If you don't see you picture and instead see code - I'm guessing you didn’t copy the HTML code or deleted a character or more in the code -- review step 3 and correct.

If you want to add another photo - repeat step 3

Step 5 - Click Submit- You're done.

After you have added photos a few times to your messages - you will see what I meant by how easy it is.

Like any skill you learn - if you don't use it often, you forget. So post a photo once a week or month for awhile. If you're in a Southern Climate it is very important to begin posting as soon as your gardens emerge since us Northern States are still shivering and looking for our hosta fix early in the season. We will return the favor later in the season.


Side Note - One way I make finding pictures easier to download is to first export them(copy) from my photo managing program(like Picasa) to the Desktop. Easier for me to find on Desktop - and remove copy once I am through with download.


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RE: is this typical of powdery mildew? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: kimmsr on 07.25.2012 at 12:28 pm in Garden Clinic Forum

Chlorosis appears when there are any one of several nutrient problems.
Nitrogen - Lower leaves yellow, overall plant light green, growth stunted.
Potassium - Tips and edges of leaves yellow, then brown, stems weak.
Magnesium - Interveinal chlorosis, growth stunted.
Zinc - Interveinal chlorosis, leaves thickened, growth stunted.
Iron - Interveinal chlorosisl, growth stunted.
Sulfur - Young leaves light green overall, growth stunted.
Boron - Young leaves pale green at base and twisted. buds die.
Copper - Young leaves pale and wilted with brown tips.
Manganese - Intervinal chlorosis on young leaves with brown spots scattered through the leaf.
Molybdenum - Interveinal chlorosis, growth stunted.
From the Rodale Encylopedia of organic gardening.


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RE: Plants for deep shade (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: knottyceltic on 01.28.2006 at 10:56 pm in Woodlands Forum

Oh wow...there are literally hundreds of kinds of Hosta and Ferns that LOVE that condition. Hostas alone will have your head swimming with the different colours and variegations, sizes and shapes (of leaves). Ferns are awesome in deep shade...I just love sitting in my little woodland backyard and watching the ferns waft in the breeze. Even when it's scortching hot outside the ferns seem to make the woods seem even cooler than they already are. Dicentras (Bleeding hearts esp. Formosa) like the shade and look quite fern-like as well but the blooms are BEAUTIFUL. Pulmonaria is lovely and enjoys the deep shade. Cranesbill/wild Gernaium does well as do the Primula/Primroses. Other species I have in my woodland is:

Doll's Eyes
Red Baneberry
Blue Cohosh
Trilliums (Red and white)
DogTooth Violets
Wild Violets (purple and white)
Canadian Columbine
May Apple
Pale Corydallis
Canadian Ginger
Solomon's Seal
False Solomon's Seal

Ferns that I have are:

Harts Tongue
Japanese Painted (non-native)
Tatting (non-native)
Holly (non-native)
Autumn (non-native)

Hope that helps some.

southern Ontario, CANADA zone 6a


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RE: transplanting lady slippers (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: terrestrial_man on 04.07.2006 at 11:52 pm in Woodlands Forum

Instead of digging some up why don't you buy some.
It is easier just to buy some that will grow in your area
and have the confidence that they will more likely survive
than digging one up a plant.
Also if you know of a population of native cyps that are threatened with development then contact a local native plant society and let them know about it. From what I understand most areas that are pristine are inventoried before development is allowed in order to ascertain if any endangered or threaten plants on a US government list are present. I would think that most native populations of cyps are known about and many are being monitored since they have become so rare. So hands off please but do your part to protect them.

Here are some links to places that you can buy laboratory
raised plants that stand a much better chance of growing for you.

Cyp Haven

Sprangle Creek Labs

Vermont Lady Slipper

Hillside Nursery



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RE: Selkie about those Rhododendren max (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: cynandjon on 07.10.2007 at 08:58 pm in Woodlands Forum

These are the native Rhodys. (rhodendren Maximum)
a naturalist came to speak at our garden club and she told us that these Rhody's you do not dead head. I thought that you should but she said no.


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RE: Will this plan mean certain death for spruces? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: ladyslppr on 05.28.2008 at 07:34 pm in Woodlands Forum

Norway Spruce are pretty shade tolerant and so they might survive or even grow a little. i am not so sure about Colorado blue Spruce, but I think spruce in general are reasonably shade tolerant. Pines generally like sun, but spruce and hemlock usually grow OK in the shade.


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RE: Goldenrod (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: judy_b_on on 06.08.2007 at 08:47 pm in Native Plants Forum

Canadensis is an aggressive spreader, I would avoid it. For the various cultivars you mention (all the names in ""), be sure to ask for the latin name which will tell you which goldenrod was the parent and will provide clues to ultimate size and agressiveness.

Flexiculis and caesia are for part shade to shade, not full sun, so be careful siting them.

Digging from private land without landowner consent is illegal, no matter how carefully you dig or what plant you take. You must ask the landowner for permission before trespassing to look for plants as well as for permission to dig and remove plants from the land.


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RE: place to plant Blue Flag Irisis (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: razorback33 on 06.24.2007 at 12:22 pm in Native Plants Forum

For plants that require wet or very damp soil, I create a "mini bog", by burying something that retains water, such as a plastic garbage can lid, a shallow plastic storage container, an aluminum roaster pan and where a larger area was required, a child's shallow play pool, made of fiberglass. All were placed so that the top rim was below ground level and slightly tilted for drainage.
If more acidity is required, milled sphagnum peat moss can be combined with the backfilled soil.


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RE: Wildflower ID (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: esh_ga on 07.31.2007 at 03:11 pm in Native Plants Forum

Go to a photo-hosting site like Open up a free account. Upload your picture(s). Under each picture is a line called HTML tag. Click that and it will say "copied". Come back here and paste it in this message. When you preview your message, you should see the picture, then click submit.


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RE: silly garden club (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: esh_ga on 05.11.2008 at 09:15 am in Native Plants Forum

Seems like they could use someone who has an interest in native plants.

Absolutely, a good reason to join. I have introduced many a gardener to native plants and enjoyed watching their interest in natives grow. By the way, we do have native Irises (as you probably know) and next time you could always point that out next time ("you really should see some of the native iris"). I have Iris cristata and Iris verna (such petite blooms!) and Iris fulva (Copper iris).

Here is a picture of my copper iris blooming for the first time this year:



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RE: Native berry producing plants? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: terrene on 11.23.2008 at 10:23 am in Native Plants Forum

Esh, glad to hear that your Virburnum are doing well. That is interesting that seedlings grown in a northerly climate such as Zone 4 are growing well in your yard zone 7 yard. I would not expect the reverse to be true! Do you have some growing in dense shade or partial shade? I've read that the amount of fruits are directly related to the amount of sun.

I gave away about 30 seedlings and the rest have been growing in holding beds for 1-2 years. Full sun is a rare commodity in this yard and so are being planted into shrub borders in an open woodland situation - partial sun.

Here's some of the species I got -

Cornus racemosa / Gray Dogwood - these are growing GREAT, most are approx 3 feet tall already and a couple are 4! Can't wait to see the white berries.

Cornus alternifolia / alternate leaf Dogwood - also growing great, the only Dogwood with alternate leaves, the growth habit and shape of leaves are very elegant on this tree

Myrica pennsylvanica / Northern bayberry - can't say enough good things about these seedlings, very rugged and drought tolerant, the foliage is gorgeous, stays semi evergreen thru winter, berries on female plants

Amelanchier spp. / Serviceberry, seedlings are rugged, most had very nice fall color ranging from orange-red, and my older tree make delicious berries!

Sambucus canadensis / Elderberry - amazing growth in first year!! 4-5 feet tall. They are taking over the poor Serviceberries. Gotta move Amelanchier and thin these ASAP.

Viburnum lentago / Nannyberry - growing great, I will train most of these to a single trunk. Makes edible purple berries.

Corylus americana / American hazelnut - drought and shade tolerant. Nice range of fall colors. Edible nuts, supposedly the squirrels love them!

Rosa virginiana / Virginia rose - these are not growing too well, and are being eaten by something. Will move next Spring. Makes nice pink flowers and rose hips.


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RE: Eradication of English Ivy (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: susanswoods on 08.10.2006 at 02:19 pm in Native Plants Forum

I got rid of a bed of English Ivy with glyphosate, mixed at the brush-killer rate and with a small amount of dish detergent added. I don't remember what time of year or air temperature. There was no change for what I recall was several weeks, then the ivy died nearly completely. I did a second application the next spring on a few fresh leaves. I have not seen any re-growth since then.


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RE: woodland bulb (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: blueridgemtngrl on 04.16.2009 at 03:11 pm in Native Plants Forum

It is a puttyroot orchid also called adam and eve orchid.(Aplectrum hyemale). They are common in pine forests.

Below is a link for the flowers. Mine don't flower often, so maybe it takes certain conditions or maturity. I'm also in NC in the mountains, a bit further west than you.

Rattlesnake plaintains (Goodyera oblongifolia) are also commonly found in the same area as puttyroot.



Here is a link that might be useful: Puttyroot Orchid


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RE: Native Plant Nursery Finder (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: loris on 01.02.2010 at 12:51 pm in Native Plants Forum

I wouldn't be surprised if you know about one or both of these, but in case they're new ideas for you:

Bowman's Wildflower Preserve (they're not showing 2010 info yet, but have had sales the other years I've looked):

NJ Audubon Native Plant Sales (PA may have the equivalent)

I've bought at both Bowman's and one Audubon center and have been happy with the plants at both.

I also sometimes find more native plants than at a typical nursery at Master Gardener and arboretum sales.


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RE: lilies in shade? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: sammie070502 on 05.12.2006 at 02:03 am in Gardening in Shade Forum

You might try martagon lilies as they are supposed to prefer shade. Mine seem to be thriving in a lightly shaded area that receives little to no direct sun.


clipped on: 02.02.2013 at 04:39 pm    last updated on: 02.02.2013 at 04:40 pm

RE: Help!!! Need berry producing shrubs for full shade!! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: knottyceltic on 08.01.2006 at 11:44 pm in Gardening in Shade Forum

My backyard is a mature wooded area and we have several kinds of shrubs with berries all in full shade:

Arrowwood Viburnum
Alternate Leaf Dogwood
Silky Dogwood

Hope that helps some...



clipped on: 02.01.2013 at 11:55 pm    last updated on: 02.01.2013 at 11:55 pm

RE: Trees doing *unexpectedly* well in shade (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: esh_ga on 07.24.2007 at 09:20 pm in Gardening in Shade Forum

Yes, hemlocks are known for their shade tolerance. Many trees can do well in the shade but may not bloom as heavily as they would in more sun. Sometimes an area gets more sun than you realize when you take into account filtered sun and winter sun (when deciduous trees lose their leaves).

Other interesting shade tolerant trees: bigleaf magnolia (Magnolia macrophylla), silverbell (Halesia tetraptera is found naturally in TN), snowbell (Styrax americanus and Styrax grandifolius both found in TN), red buckeye (Aesculus pavia)and of course there are many shrubs that can be considered small trees in the understory.


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RE: Lilies for shade????? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: gracie01 on 06.20.2008 at 09:41 pm in Gardening in Shade Forum

My Stella d'oros do great in shade.


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RE: Japanese Honeysuckle (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: esh_ga on 01.21.2013 at 03:51 pm in Native Plants Forum

Close up pics of the berries and the twigs would be best.

Colors of berries:

japanese honeysuckle - dark blue berries
decumaria barbara/wood vamp - brown seeds, not berries
wild rose - red "hips"
poison ivy - white berries
cat brier - blue berries, green stems
Virginia creeper - blue berries


clipped on: 01.22.2013 at 10:51 am    last updated on: 01.22.2013 at 10:51 am

RE: Problem with Viburnum carlesii [pic] (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: ditas on 05.10.2010 at 07:51 pm in Shrubs Forum

I originally found the formula when I visited the Rose Forum - there are many variation of the original. They actually used neem oil because it is very light oil - canola oil is very light oil. I mix a gal. to keep handy:
2 Qts = H2O
4 tsp = baking soda
1 Tbsp= mild dish washing liquid
2 Tbsp= Canola oil

Pm - if you look underneath the foliage you'll see teenee-tiny light green caterpillars - these tiny guys can skeletonize a rose bush nearly overnite!!! They don't touch the blossoms - last season 2 of my KOs were full of blossoms completely undressed of foliage. Daily dousing of the formula took care of the bushes - very soon Rose bushes were normal again!

Whaass if you asked the nursery they sell you a spray bottle of insecticidal soap = at least 10 to 13 $$. A bottle goes very fast!!!

Hs - I don't think it's that difficult - my dil's were badly curled, dousing daily got to the culprits & took care of the problem! Try it you might like it ... saves $$!


clipped on: 01.16.2013 at 10:35 am    last updated on: 01.16.2013 at 10:35 am

RE: Problem with Viburnum carlesii [pic] (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: ditas on 05.10.2010 at 02:12 pm in Shrubs Forum

Cornell Univ Formula (not the racing car - LOL) worked well for my dil's young tree problem last season. Very easy to mix & spray no waste of $$$ (H2O, baking soda, gentle liquid soap & Canola oil!!!)

Took care of Sawfly caterpils' attack on my roses & Earwigs hiding in foliage folds as well!
Good luck!


clipped on: 01.16.2013 at 10:34 am    last updated on: 01.16.2013 at 10:34 am

RE: Problem with Viburnum carlesii [pic] (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: mainegrower on 05.10.2010 at 05:30 am in Shrubs Forum

V. carlesii seems especially prone to this kind of damage. Black aphids are the usual culprits. Garlic/pepper spray may help, but I think you would have better control with BioNeem or another product containing Neem extract. Some of the "soap" based products will also work, but need repeated applications.


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RE: Serviceberry Confusion (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: sunnysideuphill on 12.13.2005 at 11:20 am in Native Plants Forum

In Native Plants of the Northeast, Donald Leopold, there is a long section on amelanchior in the Trees section, with references to three specific ones (laevis, canadensis, and arboria) and then says there are at least five others "mostly shrubby in habit". The entry then directs reader to entry in the Shrubs section for amelanchior stolonifera: "thicket-forming [via stolons] small shrub with erect stems to about 5 feeet tall..." and goes on to talk about other "shrubby species". I just took this book out of the library, and plan to buy my own copy. Includes photos.


clipped on: 01.07.2013 at 10:20 am    last updated on: 01.07.2013 at 10:20 am

RE: Shade plants that are best for wildlife? Native prefered..... (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: countrycarolyn on 05.26.2009 at 11:31 am in Woodlands Forum

Heres you a start for the shrub part

Strawberry Bush (Euonymus americanus)
Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifoia)
Spicebush (Lindera bezoin)
Ninebark (Physocarp. opulifolius)
Piedmont Azalea (Rhododend. canescens)
Pinxterbloom Azalea (Rhod. periclymenoides)
American Bladdernut (Staphylea trifolia)
Farkleberry (Vaccinium arboreum)
Arrowwood Viburnum (Viburnum dentatum)

Heres a start for the flowers

White Baneberry (Actea pachypoda)
Wild Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis)
Jack-in-the-pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum)
Wild Ginger (Asarum canadense)
Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum)
Alumroot (Heuchera americana)
Crested Iris (Iris cristata)
Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis)
Wild Blue Phlox (Phlox divaricata)
Jacob's Ladder
Solomon's Seal (Smilacina racemosa)
Solomon's Plume (Smilacina racemosa)
Wreath Goldenrod (Solidago caesia)
Foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia )

Many people have different likes and dislikes to one what might be pretty another ewwww lol. Try a search for native shade garden. I know I went to the usda site and did a search on plants just in my area it pulled up a database of 13,000 plants. Try even a search like tennessee native plant list of course use your state see what you get. Enjoy and happy gardening.


clipped on: 01.03.2013 at 10:25 pm    last updated on: 01.03.2013 at 10:25 pm

RE: Shade plants that are best for wildlife? Native prefered..... (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: aka_Peggy on 10.13.2004 at 10:04 am in Woodlands Forum

Hi Flowers,

Also, hollies are wonderful for attracting all sorts of birds. And they serve as a cover for wildlife. Serviceberry, (amelanchier spp) is another. Also known as downy shadblow or shadbush, these can be small trees or large shrubs and they attract a variety of wildlife. Other shrubs include buttonbush> cephalanthus occidentalis, blackhaw viburnum> viburnum prunifolium, mountain laurel> kalmia latifolia, rhododendron spp. and azalea.

I have virginia creeper growing into a large white pine that produces small grape-like berries in the fall and crimson foliage. It does tend to pop up around the yard from time to time but I haven't found it to be a major problem. The berries are loved by many birds.

There are many others but these are a few that will tolerate shade and all of these are native with the exception of (most) rhodies and azalea's.

Btw, spicebush attracts; great crested flycatcher, eastern kingbird, Swainson's thrust, hermit thrush, gray cheeked thrush, veery, red eyed vireo's, white eyed vireo and white throated sparrow. It's a larval source for spicebush swallowtail and tiger swallowtail. (that info was taken from "Gardening for the Birds" written by Thomas Barnes. A wonderful and informative book on attracting and feeding wildlife.)

Good luck~


clipped on: 01.03.2013 at 09:51 am    last updated on: 01.03.2013 at 09:51 am

RE: Shade plants that are best for wildlife? Native prefered..... (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: gardengal48 on 10.04.2004 at 10:15 am in Woodlands Forum

A lot will depend on how much shade you have, but here are a few starters to consider:

Aronia arbutifolia and melanocarpa (chokecherries)
Clethra alnifolia (summersweet)
Gaultheria procumbens (wintergreen, teaberry)
Vaccinium corymbosum, macrocarpon
shrub dogwoods
various viburnums
Mitchella reptans (partridgeberry)

Here is a link that might be useful: MidAtlantic Native Plants bibliography


clipped on: 01.03.2013 at 09:50 am    last updated on: 01.03.2013 at 09:50 am

RE: Shade plants that are best for wildlife? Native prefered..... (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: ahughes798 on 10.04.2004 at 12:12 am in Woodlands Forum

Fothergilla Gardenii. Bottle brush shaped, honey scented blossoms in the spring. A bumblbee magnet!


clipped on: 01.03.2013 at 09:49 am    last updated on: 01.03.2013 at 09:49 am

RE: Mail ordered Serviceberries (Follow-Up #55)

posted by: newyorkrita on 06.15.2004 at 12:19 pm in Wildlife Garden Forum

Serviceberries around here are fruiting heavily. My older Regent Shrubs have so many fruits now, I just can't believe it. The small Regents have fruit too, but not much of course, since I only put them in last year. So far I have seen the Mockingbird, Robin and Orioles eating the Serviceberries. The fruit is much larger than they were last year, I think because the shrubs had time to mature. The fruit on the small shrubs is much smaller.

Anyway, there are no Catbirds here this year so I have been able to eat lots of the fruit myself. Last year the Catbirds just about camped out in the Serviceberry Shrubs and would eat the berries all day long as they ripened.

Fruit on the Grandiflora is not ripe yet but I did eat some fruit off the Honeywood Serviceberry. It does taste slightly different from the Regent and not quite as big. I like the Regent better. Really, I think Regents are the best of the shrub Serviceberries and they only grow about 6 feet tall so never get too big. They set an amazing amount of fruit and start at an early age.


clipped on: 01.01.2013 at 10:33 pm    last updated on: 01.01.2013 at 10:33 pm

RE: Winterberry Questions (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: Viburnumvalley on 01.31.2003 at 10:08 pm in Wildlife Garden Forum

Newyorkrita: you've probably read more about the winterberries in other posts on the Shrubs Forum (I know Bob in WI had one about what's hardy in WI elsewhere). Solution is what you're thinking: plant more and different selections, since they ripen at different times and will have different rates of consumption by your local bird populations. Red Sprite is one of the earliest to be consumed around here, but Winter Red is still bright red and loaded. There are many many selections, some specifically from the northeast US, including a lot named by Polly Hill, a denizen of Cape Cod, I think. These have native American tribe names like Aquinnah, Tiasquam, Quitsa, and Quansoo, and others like Bright Horizon, Earlibright, and Shortcake. Enjoy!


clipped on: 12.25.2012 at 10:09 pm    last updated on: 12.25.2012 at 10:10 pm

RE: ID Please I (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: sam_md on 07.29.2012 at 08:12 pm in Shrubs Forum

^5 esh_ga, it appears to be Vaccinium stamineum or none other than the Deerberry. This is one of 27 vaccinium species native to eastern US and Canada.
Hard to believe but how could all this fruit:

Yield so little seed:


clipped on: 12.22.2012 at 10:42 am    last updated on: 12.22.2012 at 10:42 am

RE: Viburnum lovers please come in (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: viburnumvalley on 05.17.2008 at 01:00 pm in Native Plants Forum

As a significant consumer of viburnums myself, I must agree with dkgarber's interest in the genus, and esh_ga's list of choices presented. I disagree that one should return V. x burkwoodii just 'cause it isn't native to North America.

V. x burkwoodii actually hails from England, derived from the fine work of Mssrs. Burkwood and Skipwith early in the last century. It is a hybrid of V. carlesii and V. utile (which are Asian), and was selected for vigor, fragrance, and semi-evergreen character depending on what zone you garden in. This is a perfectly good plant for the bones of any garden, and that's all I'll say about it (since this is the native plants forum).

For the original question, big plants that grow quickly and fruit heavily for feathered friends would include:

V. dentatum - arrowwood is the most rewarding shrub that requires the least work. There are over 25 different clones available for fall color, fresh foliage, fine flowering, fantastic fruiting, form...

V. rufidulum - the rusty blackhaw rewards the gardener with lustrous substantial foliage and great fall color, on top of copious bloom and heavy fruiting. This is a small tree, and can be grown multi-stemmed if desired.

V. prunifolium - blackhaw appears nearly the same plant as rusty blackhaw, differing mainly in the coloration of the dormant buds, timing of bloom, and less glossy foliage. It is another small tree that can be grown multi-stemmed.

V. nudum - Raisin viburnum (this really needs a better common name) is a versatile big shrub with glossy summer foliage, tons of flowers, fruit that proceeds through an incredible range of colors before finally settling on a deep blue at maturity, and tremendous persistent fall color. 'Winterthur' is the most common clone available. Since one should always plant multiple related individuals (not solely one clone) in order to achieve best fruiting, look for others like 'Brandywine', 'Earth Shade', etc. so that cross-pollination is maximized.

With these four native species, you can create a 12 week flowering sequence (mid-spring to early summer) as well as a really long period of fruiting for birds and your enjoyment.

Except for the few species that have shown some invasive tendencies (notably V. dilatatum in the mid-Atlantic region), I'd venture to take a go at almost any viburnum you come across to increase your collection.


clipped on: 12.17.2012 at 03:14 pm    last updated on: 12.17.2012 at 03:14 pm

RE: 'Red Sprite' pollinators ... (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: viburnumvalley on 10.19.2012 at 11:38 pm in Shrubs Forum


You are just completely wrong about "any male winterberry will pollinate any female winterberry", and you shouldn't distribute such misinformed opinions on this public website to less knowledgeable participants.

Despite your opinion about signs at many garden centers, the timing of bloom of certain named selections of Ilex verticillata (as well as the bloom times of genetically dissimilar provenances of Winterberry Holly) is based on science and solid observations of many learned growers of this species, and is well-documented and published.

Do a Google search for Simpson Nursery, and study the bloom chart. You will find that there is quite a spread in the actual bloom times for selections like 'Early Male' (in which 'Jim Dandy' fits), 'Apollo', and 'Southern Gentleman'. The newer selections like 'Skipjack', 'Rhett Butler', and 'Johnny Come Lately' all fit within the grand scheme of bloom times.

I am growing all of these, as well as many of the female selections of Ilex verticillata. I can vouch for the varying of bloom times.

At your peril (meaning, the missing out on pollination of your hollies and lack of subsequent fruit) will you listen to the un- or misinformed statements of participants here who obviously do not have the proper experience to make these statements.

The male and female plants must have overlapping bloom times in order for the insects that visit the flowers and move the pollen to successfully perform the pollinating activity. It is NOT magic.

'Red Sprite' blooms with 'Jim Dandy', 'Early Male', 'Skipjack', and may overlap with 'Apollo'. I think terratoma can expect success with these combinations. 'Southern Gentleman' and 'Johnny Come Lately' will NOT be appropriate to pair with 'Red Sprite'.


clipped on: 12.11.2012 at 11:08 pm    last updated on: 12.11.2012 at 11:08 pm

Cause of Scarlet elderberry fruit twigs breaking off at base?

posted by: roseunhip on 06.20.2006 at 08:08 am in Wildlife Garden Forum

Plant is just a few years old; has been transplanted two years ago. Now at about 4 ft high, it produces wonderful berry clumps (in the shade!). Two days ago I notice this: berries are growing and turning bright red, but all of their branches are snapped off (bent) right at the base, under some weight.

Am. Robins and Red-wing blackbirds nest in the area. I can very well imagine the juvenile robins (which are presently helping themselves crazy in the serviceberry tree!) trying clumsily to perch then breaking the twigs off.

But I wonder if this weakness of the plant is normal or a sign that something is wrong with it? A deficiency of some sort?

It it were but for the fruits, but those branches also bear new leaf sets, and I am a little worried about the growth rate of this screening plant.


clipped on: 12.11.2012 at 09:20 am    last updated on: 12.11.2012 at 09:20 am

RE: Ilex verticillata in light shade? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: newyorkrita on 09.24.2003 at 06:25 pm in Wildlife Garden Forum

I did my last nursery buying stop at the local East End Long Island Nursery were I bought my Winterberry shrubs and was just amazed at the display of the Winterberry shrubs covered in red berries. This was the grouping I was looking at in my July 31st posting on this thread. But what a difference almost two months make. The Winterberries are so loaded down with fruit that some of the branches are bending over. Of course these are the ones in the sunnier spot, as the ones in total shade still had greenish berries. The berries were large, bright red, and just awesome.


clipped on: 12.05.2012 at 10:02 pm    last updated on: 12.05.2012 at 10:02 pm

RE: Which species keep dense in the shade? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: gardengal48 on 11.25.2012 at 02:03 pm in Shrubs Forum

Plants that are shade tolerant (or even shade preferrant) will not get leggy in shade - they are genetically programmed to thrive in low light conditions so do not develop etiolation under those conditions like most sunlovers would.

There's a long list of shade tolerant shrubs and an even longer one if in a zone that will include more broadleaved evergreens. Yews, boxwood, fothergilla, itea, euonymus fortunei, various viburnums, rhodies and azaleas, daphne, clethra, leucothoe, kerria, hydrangeas, Japanese dappled willow, shrub dogwoods.......etc. Not all of these are necessarily dense by nature to begin with but they certainly won't become any more leggy in a shady position.


clipped on: 11.28.2012 at 04:38 pm    last updated on: 11.28.2012 at 04:38 pm