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RE: need 3 or 4 week menu plan! (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: twiggler_2 on 11.27.2007 at 10:10 am in Organizing the Home Forum

A real LIFESAVER I've found, is the Women's Day Month of Menu's. It gives you the meal suggestion, as well as side dishes to go with each menu. You can print off a weekly grocery list too. I've been printing them off and putting them in sheet protectors in a binder. Ones we love, we circle and I switch to fix these when the main idea for the menu that day isn't our favorite. Hope this link helps you!

Here is a link that might be useful: WD Month-of-menus


clipped on: 12.18.2007 at 04:15 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2007 at 04:16 pm

RE: need 3 or 4 week menu plan! (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: quiltglo on 11.26.2007 at 02:47 pm in Organizing the Home Forum

Leanne Ely is one of the most well know dinner divas. She has complete plans and shopping lists.

Hillbilly housewife is focused on saving money, but she has good ideas.

I've looked at Menus for Moms before. It's free, but I'm not sure of a shopping list.

This blog has a couple of hundred women listing their Monday meal plans. I've got to go back and check that. scroll down towards the bottom of the page.

I haven't tried this one, but she does have shopping lists with her menus.

I've tried saving dinner and my family just didn't like her meals. What seems to have worked best for us is to sit down and come up with a list of as many meals that we can think of that we like. Kind of divide them up according to type and effort, then create a few plans and grocery lists.



clipped on: 12.18.2007 at 04:15 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2007 at 04:16 pm

As Promised ~Directions to Make a Bolster Pillow

posted by: cliff_and_joann on 10.22.2007 at 12:43 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Ok Kids, as promised I made a bolster pillow this morning
and took photos along the way..

One: I cut the fabric about 18" x18" and folded it in half
(inside out)and pinned it.

Two: Sew down both sides and along back, leaving an opening for stuffing in the middle of the back.

Three: stuff pillow a lot and pin opening shut. Do not sew opening yet, that is the last thing you do.

Four: take back pins out and pull stuffing back from the four corners, so that they can be folded over flat.

Note: See the left side, I pulled out a little stuffing out,
to show you where the back seam is.

I'll be back with the final photos.


clipped on: 10.23.2007 at 07:20 am    last updated on: 10.23.2007 at 07:20 am

RE: my dream kitchen (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: igloochic on 10.23.2007 at 02:58 am in Kitchens Forum

I'm just going to cut and paste some instructions I've given on painting cabinets and trim many times. The information here applies to both a light colored cabinet or dark (your paint hue) but in this post I specifically discuss a color choice that someone wanted me to share with them. If you don't want brown cabinets, don't tint the primer (it is white normally). This is the perfect primer for any paint job!

I only use high quality nylon (Purdy) brushes. I prefer them for wood finishes. They cost more but they last forever! I did have the primer tinted, and tinted it's kind of light purple color LOL so it looks funny until you start putting more paint on. They hate tinting it, but make them do it anyhoo!
Don't let anyone talk you into anything different (they always try to with me and it's never worked out). This is exactly what I use:

Sherwin Williams PrepRite ProBlock Interior Exterior Seals and Bonds, Latex primer (it's the most expensive...but if you don't like sanding or using chemicals to prep, this is the stuff for you!). I've never had to sand or strip first using this on the worst shiny stuff.

Sherwin Williams Exterior All Surface Glass Enamel
Code IFC411X
Woodsy Brown 100% mix formula 2924 (color code)

Then use Acrylic Latex HIGH GLOSS Ultradeep base 6403-25932
Code A41T00204

Do not take a less glossy finish. This finish dries HARD and rich :) (There's a man joke in there somewhere but I'll avoid making it)

I use one coat primer and let it dry a day at least, then two coats (one day between at least) of paint with a good Purdy brush (which is important). With just one coat the grain still effects the paint, but with the two on top of the primer you get that nice smooth look :)

I'm a paint freak, so forgive me for saying this if you know. Don't use rollers for wood. I like a 1 1/2 inch and a 2 1/2 or 3" brush at the most. The smaller works well on the small areas so you don't drip or oversmear the sides of the project.

Now onto that paneling. I don't know if you're the person I talked to in the bathroom forum, so just in case, I'll add a note that I'm going to share a how to on VP that is NOT used in a bathroom (you must use Marmorino plaster in the bathroom or any wet area).

Real VP isn't that expensive (try artsparx on the web) unless you have to ship the crap to Alaska (that hurts!) so use the real stuff. You'll be happier with it. If you won't listen to me and do that...go ahead and hit Lowes or Home Despot and find some :oP But it won't be anywhere as nice (it will be nice but not AS nice!). Anyhoo, the cracks are easy :) Before you start doing the real plaster work, I'd prime the walls. I prefer a quartz primer for plaster, but if you're not in a bathroom it's not mandatory so use the primer I discuss above since it will adhear to any finish. I'd prime the walls a good week before you're going to plaster just to make sure it's going to stick (since you don't know what was used on the walls first).

Now that it's stuck (quick fast forward huh?) go ahead and run a line of plaster over those joints and fill them in with VP. Scrape away any excess left on the higher areas (just fill in the joints) and let that sit for a minimum of 48 hours. You want to make sure that it's 100% dry since that's a rather thick application for VP (normally it should be paper thin). After that, if it's dried (you'll see a consistent color verses some dark and light areas when it's dry) go ahead and start with your first layer. Remember! VP should look like crap when you're done with layer one!!!! If it looks good, you used too much and it will not dry properly. PAPER THIN! Then burnish off the high areas and do it again, then umm again :oP Then on top of those three layers of plaster at least, apply a commercial oil based wax (if this is in the kitchen) so that the wall is easily cleanable.

To know if you've burnished enough between layers and at the your hand over the finish. It should feel like butter or silk. No rough edges. If you leave a rough bump here and there it will damage the next layer so those between burnishings are very important. You can even sand down areas if you have to, but make sure you start with silk between each layer :)


clipped on: 10.23.2007 at 07:14 am    last updated on: 10.23.2007 at 07:14 am

RE: Pantry shelf spacing - Did you save it?? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: monicakm on 10.04.2007 at 05:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

Ya just gotta love a person that puts a chandy in the kitchen pantry! :)) With a kitchen like hers tho, I wouldn't expect any less.
My pantry is similar to this in measurements. I tested with boxes and cans and appliances before giving DH the go ahead to build it. My very top shelf (to ceiling) is 19". It's for seasonal and seldom used items. The next three shelves are 12" high. Food items, cans and boxes, and even a 3-stack of (plastic) slide out drawers on on these. Next is 15" high and houses small appliances and a larger, deeper 2-drawer plastic pull out bin for pastas, dried beans and packaged soups. The bottom shelf is 21.5". Larger appliances (Nesco roaster and crockpot) plus overflow baking sheets, casserole dishes, trays, bowls, etc. It's been perfect for my needs.


clipped on: 10.05.2007 at 08:12 am    last updated on: 10.05.2007 at 08:12 am

RE: Pantry shelf spacing - Did you save it?? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: sue36 on 10.04.2007 at 05:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

Is this it?

My pantry measures 4 feet wide by 5 feet deep.
Starting at the top:

18" top shelf to ceiling(Things I don't need often or are lightweight.)
15" to next shelf (cereal boxes, etc.)
10" to next (canned goods, etc.)
10" to next (canned goods, etc.)
16" to next (small appliances)
20" from bottom shelf to floor (extra waters, heavy items)

I made the depth of the back shelf and the right side 12". The left side is 6" and holds my husbands hot sauces and other small items.

Here is a link that might be useful: Pic of Sharb's Pantry


clipped on: 10.05.2007 at 08:11 am    last updated on: 10.05.2007 at 08:11 am