Clippings by waterdamage

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

RE: 'If I Knew Then What I Know Now...' (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: florantha on 05.14.2012 at 10:03 am in Kitchens Forum

I would have halted the construction until I really thought through my window plans. Because we were making an addition, the sky was the limit, or so it seemed. I'm glad that at least I demanded sufficient room for roman shades to go up and down alongside my cabs and that we got a good look from the street, but we overbought in custom ($$) openables (with 5 windows I didn't need all to be openable). Also, wasn't aware that there are different offerings by different manufacturers and our consultant was a Pella guy so we bought Pella.

Recently I've learned that there is a no-crank, no-center support casement window by Marvin--I would love to be able to pull my windows in and out and to have that center post on the center pair disappear when they're open.

I wish I'd known that the shallow drawers underneath my pull-out breadboards would be very shallow. I would have made them deeper all around the perimeter of kitchen and sacrificed a tad of space in lower drawers.


Window possibility.
clipped on: 05.14.2012 at 02:47 pm    last updated on: 05.14.2012 at 02:47 pm

RE: Space needed for kitchen table? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: bmorepanic on 05.11.2012 at 09:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

Rule of thumb for regular type of dining chairs is table width plus about 30" for empty chairs on both sides.

A person needs at least 32" in order to pull out the chair and become seated. A seated person sticks out about 24" in their chair - including the chair legs. An aisle big enough for a waiter is about 2 feet wide behind the seated person (total of 44" actually from the table edge). An aisle wide enough for slightly larger peeps or movement impaired peeps(aka slightly clumsy), or when something like a sofa is on the other side needs an allowance more like 36" behind the seated person - or a total of 5 feet from the counter edge.

If operable cabinets or appliances are behind a seated person, the game changes because it would be nice to be able to USE the cabinets - so that is about 2 feet of allowance for doors and drawers to fully open into the aisle with the same space recycled for someone to stand at the counter and work. THEN add the 2-3 foot aisle and the two feet for the seated person or a total of 6-7 feet between counter tops. It sorta just depends on whether there is someone elderly or disabled.

So, to use this info, add a minimum of 2.5 feet to your table width or length for each side. With a 3 x 6 foot table, you'd need about 8 feet with squish-by passages on both sides. On the long side, you'd need about 11 feet.

The table, seated people and a small walk by passage needs about 11 feet (meaning carrying a turkey and being very careful) on the short side and about 14 feet on the long side. This is thinking all sides of the table are the same and a lot of the time, there doesn't need to be a walking aisle on all sides.

So you only need to add for aisles and add/subtract for changes in the table width. BUT if the table changes to below 30" wide - the squish by measurement remains the same because the add-on is for the chair and the chair will take the same about of room even if the table gets smaller. If the table is wider than 36", just add the inches of table width over 36" to the width.



clipped on: 05.14.2012 at 02:40 pm    last updated on: 05.14.2012 at 02:40 pm

Does anyone have Lee Valley Kitchen Pantry Hardware Unit?

posted by: oldbat2be on 03.24.2012 at 07:44 am in Kitchens Forum

Thanks to aliris19's 'Lee Valley Free Postage' link (though this is probably excluded) I've been browsing the site and dreaming.

One item we haven't yet covered is dry goods storage, in our pantry. The space is 53'' wide by 36'' deep. It looks like I could put the below in a cabinet in the middle, then figure out the sides for tall item storage.

I would love to hear anyone's experience and if possible see pictures, if anyone has this unit.

Thanks in advance - oldbat2be

Here is a link that might be useful: Lee Valley Kitchen Pantry Hardware


PLP or our closet?
clipped on: 03.26.2012 at 03:02 pm    last updated on: 03.26.2012 at 03:02 pm

RE: help with new cookware (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: zen978 on 02.21.2012 at 09:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

Check out the Cook's Illustrated equipment reviews. May be behind a paywall, but if so it's worth an online subscription ($19/year maybe?). I've taken their advice on chef's knife, skillet, roasting pan, saucepans and dutch ovens and saved a lot of money because they test and recommend without advertising influence. For instance, the chef's knife they recommend over a number of pricey options is about $25. You can find reviews for almost any pan type, and they also do a comparison for cookware sets vs their own a la carte recommendations. If there's a particular pan type you're interested in seeing their recommendation on, let me know and I'll look it up for you.

Here is a link that might be useful: Cook's Illustrated


consumer reports for kitchen stuff at cooks illustrated
clipped on: 02.22.2012 at 02:34 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2012 at 02:34 pm

RE: Kitchen organization - Resources and Inspiration (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: Angeleyes54020 on 01.22.2012 at 12:58 am in Kitchens Forum

I have a few sites that might help.

Organize your frig:

Freezer Organization:

Pantry Organization:

Here is a link that might be useful: Organizing Tips


clipped on: 01.22.2012 at 06:52 pm    last updated on: 01.22.2012 at 06:52 pm

RE: cut cabinet center stile to allow wide pull-out shelves (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: webbrowseraz on 01.04.2012 at 07:14 am in Kitchens Forum

Here is a good article explaining the removal of the center stile and attaching to the cabinet doors to install roll out shelves

Here is a link that might be useful: Removing center stile for roll out shelves


for PLP
clipped on: 01.04.2012 at 02:13 pm    last updated on: 01.04.2012 at 02:13 pm

RE: Induction Cooktop Advice (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: herring_maven on 06.16.2011 at 07:35 pm in Appliances Forum

Ginny20 writes: "I'm still trying to decide on which 30" induction. This is some of what I've found: The GE requires 12" clearance underneath. The Electrolux requires 7.5" on the side, and I think the LG might, also. The LG and Kitchenaid KICU509x have bridge elements. The Miele has the biggest elements."

The LG LCE30845 does not need anywhere near 7.5" clearance on the sides. We have had an LG LCE30845 for about 42 months. We selected the LG because it has the least under-counter clearance of any cooktop: not only is it pancake thin -- 2-3/16" inches below the counter -- but also it vents its cooling air out of coin-thick vents at the back of the unit above, not below, the counter, which means that the under-counter space is pretty much free for any use to which you choose to put it. The unit also requires very minimal clearance on the sides; our LG sits completely inside a standard 33" wide counter fixture, so our side clearance is less than one inch on each side after accounting for the structural rails at the top of the counter unit.

The LG has a slightly lower maximum power requirement (32 amps) than most of the alternative induction cooktops (which typically specify 40 amps maximum). Probably the main reason is that the LG's largest (ten inch) element draws lower wattage than the largest element in some other units; but beware getting caught up in the numbers game: in more than three years, we have not yet found an application where we needed to turn the large element to "9" (2.4 kw), much less any need to boost it to "P" (3.3 kw, its maximum output) -- but we typically do not boil 20 quart pots of water.

My understanding is that the induction inverter in the LCE30845 is made by a company (Luxine) that in 2009 was acquired by and now is a part of Vollrath, but I have not been able to confirm that information.


induction not needing much vertical space
clipped on: 12.12.2011 at 10:44 am    last updated on: 12.12.2011 at 10:45 am

RE: cookbook on whole grain baking? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: arley on 12.01.2011 at 11:24 am in Cooking Forum

I find 'Laurel's Kitchen Bread Book' to be excellent. It covers whole grain, and only whole grain, breadmaking; there is no white flour in any recipe anywhere. Many bread books have recipes which can be called 'whole wheat flavored bread' in that they use some white flour in their recipes--this book is 100% white flour free.

Whole wheat baking is a little trickier than baking with white flour, but if you follow the directions in this book, it will come out great. By the way, the first edition of this book came out a long time ago; I was able to pick up a copy in a junk shop for a dollar. But if you want to eliminate white flour from your diet, you can't go wrong with this book, and it's worth it even at full retail price.

Here is a link that might be useful: laurels kitchen bread book


clipped on: 12.01.2011 at 02:50 pm    last updated on: 12.01.2011 at 02:54 pm

RE: cookbook on whole grain baking? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: grainlady on 12.01.2011 at 07:26 am in Cooking Forum

Oh, my.... Where to start! I have somewhere around 30 different grains/seeds/beans in storage that I use for making all our baked goods and mill my own flour. Not sure if milling is something you are interested in. I also mill all our cereals, flakes, and make most of our snack foods using whole grains/seeds/beans.

I'd have to recommend a trip to your local library as a good place to start. Look for some of these titles (in no particular order) as well as other good offerings shelved there:

-King Arthur Flour Whole Grain Baking Cookbook
-The Splendid Grain - Rebecca Wood
-Ancient Grains for Modern Meals - Maria Speck
-Whole Grains Every Day Every Way - Lorna Sass
-The Amazing Wheat book - LeArta Moulton
-All-American Waves of Grain - Grunes & Van Vynckt
-Best-Loved Whole Grain Recipes (Favorite Brand Name)
-The New Book of Whole Grains - Marlene Anne Bumgarner
-The Pleasure of Whole-Grain Breads - Beth Hensperger

That's just scratching the surface of what I have in my library.

Check out web sites like:
Bob's Red Mill
Hodgson Mill
King Arthur Flour

If you have more questions, fire away...



clipped on: 12.01.2011 at 02:50 pm    last updated on: 12.01.2011 at 02:50 pm

satin colors chart (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: circuspeanut on 11.20.2011 at 11:31 am in Kitchens Forum

Whups sorry, that Colors link didn't work well. Here are the Satin colors; they make everything from switches to outlets to dimmers in these colors, as well as the plates:


colors for switches and switchplates
clipped on: 11.28.2011 at 10:39 am    last updated on: 11.28.2011 at 10:39 am

RE: What is the 'One True Kitchen? I Want Photo Examples Please (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: zartemis on 11.18.2011 at 03:00 am in Kitchens Forum

I think few people intentionally "simply follow the crowd" but we live in a society and I don't think anyone's preferences are 100% immune to "trend" influence.

There are two of us remodeling the house and kitchen. Neither of us watch TV. I don't watch movies (he watches scifi). We run ad blockers on our browsers. We don't read magazines. We don't have long commutes so we see fewer billboards than most. We both HATE shopping and never go in malls. Before reading this forum, I didn't even know there existed a store called Restoration Hardware. Seriously.

Yet we are putting in shaker cabs -- seemingly today's (or at least GW's) most popular style. And that was decided before I posted here -- I think one of my first posts was even asking what "this" style was called: shaker (sincerely asking -- and none of you made fun of me for it, even!). Their popularity may explain why one kitchen designer/cab rep seemed to sigh as she showed us door panels and we both independently pointed to the shaker (and the plain slab (which she seemed also to have a disinclination toward) -- but slab was generally more expensive and we didn't have strong preference between the two so price won there).

We had not browsed house mags (never have yet) or online finished kitchen blogs (have since), no TV, no friends with kitchens remodeled in the last 20 years (most rent), no movie kitchens and yet the trends of the day had independently and unconsciously seeped into both our preferences (the white paint part didn't, though).

I'm not offended if someone suggests our choice is 'trendy'. Did we consciously choose them because they are popular? No. Did we unconsciously do so? Who knows for sure? Quite probably.

Some of the kitchen minutia discussions (others and my own!) do remind me of this, though:


clipped on: 11.22.2011 at 03:06 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2011 at 03:06 pm

RE: Walnut Island top used as cutting board - photos & finish det (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: lawjedi on 03.06.2011 at 10:04 am in Kitchens Forum

Re: Drink rings. I learned what I thought was the neatest trick about a week ago. Thought I'd share it here.

I had several drink rings on some of my wood furniture and it had been bothering me. I started looking online to see if there was an easy fix.

YES!!!!!!! take a paper bag (like the old grocery ones), lay it over the ring, and then IRON OVER THE RING. I did it on fairly high heat - 1 step lower than my iron's hottest. I went back and forth several times and then peak... back and forth and then peak... The heat drew the moisture out of the spot. I no longer have white water rings on my antique table!!! none on my end table!!! none on my dining table (still not sure how that one got past the awesome finish the table has)....

hope this helps. I was just so excited!


clipped on: 11.21.2011 at 03:33 pm    last updated on: 11.21.2011 at 03:33 pm

RE: Filtered Water Faucet (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: davidro1 on 11.16.2011 at 09:44 am in Kitchens Forum

There are many filters in the market, but it is hard to get comparisons about them. This is one field where Consumer Reports would do a good job. Some filters let a large flow rate through. Some constrict flow significantly, and actually this proves that the water is being forced through a tight filter that grabs the stuff you want to filter out. But, what DO they filter? Even CR would have a hard time answering that. Since you have not mentioned any special filtering needs I'll guess you want to filter a "minimal" amount of stuff; this could be good to keep in mind when you phone technical support phone numbers or talk to salespeople. Otherwise the number of options increases exponentially.

See Insinkerator / Emerson products. Look around their web site. Prices are standardized, and any discount you might get will be the same discount across the range of products.
Transcape HC-Wave 'HC' means both hot and cold (not chilled).
Involve HC-Wave 'HC' means both hot and cold (not chilled).

If my memory is accurate, for some odd reason the company priced these two products at a lower price point that the 'C' products (single tap water spout).
... = thus, the instant hot water tank and the extra tap were essentially free.

In many discussions, Insta-Hot is something people love. Combine it with a filter and the Insta-Hot tank gets filtered water, which is a good thing as there will be less gunk sedimenting in the bottom of the tank, ergo less corrosion later in life.

I found that HomeDepot was able to order these products. But, see caveat below.

I found that a professional plumbing supply store was the best channel to buy from. They don't sell to end users unless you walk in knowing more than they do about the purchase you intend. They know how to find things out fast, AND they understand everything, AND they can double-check anything AND then explain it to help you confirm everything. At HomeDepot it's the exact opposite: finding things out is a long process, and then the information relayed to your ears is iffy although the apronbearing servant might sound experienced; there is nobody at any level in the company who can confirm anything, and they might lie to you about how much they know and understand, or simply be guilty of unwitting ignorance. A specialty distribution channel is way better than a big box store trying to compete as an also-ran in the pack. Hope this helps when you send your handyman to go look into this subject and read the instructions. A handyman who has been introduced to a professional plumbing supply store is even better. Of course one may also place a phone call to the manufacturer and talk to technical support. There are a lot of tubes and pipes that have to be connected when you have both a filter and an instant hot water tank. The hot faucet has a special pipe configuration because the water temperature is so high.


Here is a link that might be useful: a straight shot to some of the ISE products


clipped on: 11.17.2011 at 12:06 am    last updated on: 11.17.2011 at 12:06 am

RE: Can anyone recommend made-to-order tiles? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: ThePaintedLady on 11.10.2011 at 07:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

I had my fireplace tile made by KJ Patterson, it's really pretty and they have a range of colors. The tiles are all handmade.


clipped on: 11.10.2011 at 09:39 pm    last updated on: 11.10.2011 at 09:39 pm

RE: Can anyone recommend made-to-order tiles? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: shaughnn on 11.10.2011 at 07:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sonoma Tilemakers, Handcraft Tile, Artistic Tile, McIntyre Tile, are some that come to mind. Are you local to Seattle? I ask because Status is here and I wasn't aware that their distribution was very broad?


clipped on: 11.10.2011 at 09:38 pm    last updated on: 11.10.2011 at 09:38 pm

RE: Can anyone recommend made-to-order tiles? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: fori on 11.10.2011 at 04:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

Pewabic and Motawi, although they are both pretty earthy and might not be perfect anyway!


clipped on: 11.10.2011 at 09:38 pm    last updated on: 11.10.2011 at 09:38 pm

Can anyone recommend made-to-order tiles?

posted by: kitchenkrazed09 on 11.10.2011 at 04:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

Some of you may know I have had some recent backsplash trouble, where the bullnose trim pieces I've ordered have not matched the color of the field tiles. I am looking into made-to-order tile companies that make the entire order at once, so everything is glazed with the same dye lot. I would prefer bright white crackle tiles (but am starting to think of other options).

I am waiting for a sample of the white crackle made by Status Ceramics. I also looked into Subway Ceramics. They have beautiful tile, but it's a little too creamy for my crisp white cabinets. (Although I may end up with them if I can't find anything else.)

Does anyone know of other made-to-order companies? Thanks in advance!


clipped on: 11.10.2011 at 09:38 pm    last updated on: 11.10.2011 at 09:38 pm

RE: Can anyone recommend made-to-order tiles? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: palimpsest on 11.10.2011 at 04:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

Heath has a very good reputation, makes several whites. There is a certain amount of variation in their tile as well since they are hand made, but rather than a distinct mismatch between your field tile and your bullnose, the variation would be throughout the lot

Here is a link that might be useful: Heath


clipped on: 11.10.2011 at 09:37 pm    last updated on: 11.10.2011 at 09:37 pm

RE: Is kitchen under cabinet light worth it? (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: colorfast on 09.12.2011 at 03:09 am in Kitchens Forum


We did not use the Flexible strip but we did use the Deluxe Kit 10" Designer Super Deluxe from Inspired. They are great lights. For us, an advantage was that we could have outlets installed and then plug them into an outlet.

We looked at the flexible strip and considered it for our in-cabinet glass but are not sure we will put any lights in the cab at all. I just like a really clean look. What we liked about this light was how slim a size it is. Service was all good from this company.

I should mention that another popular one here on Gardenweb is Phantom Lighting. Also, go over to the Lighting forum and do some searches to get some of the wisdom over there.

Good luck!


UCL sources
clipped on: 11.09.2011 at 03:39 pm    last updated on: 11.09.2011 at 03:39 pm

RE: wall paint with carrara cc and white cabinets (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: remodelfla on 07.23.2011 at 07:30 am in Kitchens Forum

It's the second time today I'm going to mention the paint color BM Nimbus. I saw/read about it on another thread recently. Beautiful color.


clipped on: 10.22.2011 at 01:37 pm    last updated on: 10.22.2011 at 01:37 pm

RE: Kitchen finally done after more than 3 years! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: ni_2006 on 09.05.2011 at 09:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are some details.

Cabinets: from Hanssem Kitchens, Eureka style in cherry. Most of the base cabinets are drawers, which is such a treat since we did not have a single drawer in the previous kitchen (not even for silverware, what was the previous owner thinking??)

Granite - Bianco Romano (I really struggled with this choice, but I am so happy with this decision. Thanks to GW friends for your input!)

Faucet - Kohler Forte

Sink - Ticor double-bowl sink from Galaxy Tool Supply

Soap dispenser - from Lowes; purchased for $19.99

Refrigerator - Kenmore Pro counterdepth fridge (purchased prior to remodeling; the fridge that came with the house was yucky)

Dishwasher - Bosch

Range - Bosch slide-in electric range

Microwave - Sharp over the counter microwave

Vent hood - Zephyr Tamburo (since we have the stove in the corner, this was the only hood that allowed us to open adjacent wall cabinets; I am not thrilled with its performance)

Floor - white oak, no stain

Cabinet hardware: Ebay (I really wish I got different handles! I keep on bumping into them and getting bruises on my legs.)

Pendant lights - $20 each from Home Depot!

Tapmaster - my favorite item from the renovation; a lovely present from DH for mother's day last year (my first mother's day :)

Paint color � Comfort Gray (Sherwin Williams); after purchasing close to 10 samples, I found the perfect bluish-greenish-grayish color!!!

Backsplash � calcatta herringbone from Ann Sacks (inspired by Willowdecor�s kitchen); field tiles are Grazia Rixi tiles in Mandorla color


the paint color was nice with white/gray granite
clipped on: 10.22.2011 at 10:25 am    last updated on: 10.22.2011 at 10:25 am

RE: Undercabinet lighting, help! (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: Luv2Laf on 10.18.2011 at 01:18 am in Kitchens Forum

If you're truly on a budget, then you might check out IKEA. I used their cheapo LED strips (I think they were $14.99, but can't find them online). Must be plugged in (I had a plug in placed in the corner of the upper cabinet) great.

Here is a link that might be useful: IKEA LED Lighting


clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 09:08 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 09:08 pm

RE: Undercabinet lighting, help! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mountaineergirl on 10.17.2011 at 08:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm not sure what kind of lights you could get for under $150. and in my opinion, LED is the only way to go. They operate for pennies, and last 8-10 years, but are a little costly. I had 3 areas to illuminate, a total of 13 linear feet I think, and it was around $450. and if I remember correctly, only about 50 watts total,tho I could be wrong about that.

Mine were purchased thru

Here is a link that might be useful: UC light bars


clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 08:51 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 08:51 pm

RE: Looking for the round spice tins,... (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: cloud_swift on 10.16.2011 at 07:01 pm in Kitchens Forum has ones with twist on lids too. They don't have as many sizes of those as the slip on ones.

Here is a link that might be useful: Link to tin containers with twist lids.


clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 03:04 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 03:04 pm

RE: Looking for the round spice tins,... (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: ellabee_2016 on 10.17.2011 at 12:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

The site at the link has a good selection of spice tins for use with magnetic strips, and a lot of good ideas and tips whether you end up going that way or not. If you have a really large number of spices you might want to get tins by the case (usually 24 to a case) from online packaging suppliers. I use square tins with pull-off (i.e., not screw-top) lids.

Here is a link that might be useful: Magnetic spice racks


clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 03:04 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 03:04 pm

RE: Looking for the round spice tins,... (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: sally123 on 10.17.2011 at 03:11 am in Kitchens Forum

Like these?
I got mine at Pfaltzgraf, but they have them lots of places, including Amazon. They're great for spices because you can twist the top to sprinkle or pour.


clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 03:00 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 03:00 pm

RE: White Glass Backsplash (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: cat_mom on 10.19.2011 at 10:39 am in Kitchens Forum

Unless you use low-iron glass, it will appear bluish/greenish in different lighting, at different times of day. Our glass tile splash definitely looks bluish-green at times, and sometimes looks whiter. We used Opera Glass from Artistic Tile in Wolfgang White. We we were aware of the color-shifting when we brought the sample board home, and had to decide whether we could "live" with that, and decided we could. Only YOU can decide if that look is right for you (if your chosen tile is not low-iron).


clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 02:58 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 02:58 pm

RE: How hard is it to retrofit drawers into existing cab box? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: bob_cville on 10.19.2011 at 01:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

For my kitchen remodel a couple of years back I went with Scherr's custom cabinets who make custom RTA cabinets. I'm sure that they could make RTA drawer boxes for the existing cabinets, as well as making a few additional cabinets.

And as far as installing the new drawers in the existing boxes they can make a template that you set inside your existing cabinet, aligned with the front of the cabinet box and then merely drill using a self-centering depth-limited drill bit in each of the holes in the template. Then all you do is attach the drawer glides to the drilled holes and slide the drawers in.

This last bit I know from personal experience. Due to a change on my part the cabinets arrived with the holes for the drawer slides in the wrong location, so Scherr's shipped the templates described above as well as the drill bit, and after 5 minutes work on each of the mis-drilled cabinets the drawer glides were installed and ready for the drawers to be slid in.



clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 02:55 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 02:55 pm

How hard is it to retrofit drawers into existing cab box?

posted by: northcarolina on 10.19.2011 at 08:50 am in Kitchens Forum

I don't mean roll-out trays, I mean converting from door cabinets to drawer stacks using RTA drawer boxes and hardware in already-installed cabinet boxes. The cabs are frameless. Would it be easier just to replace them with RTA cabs that are already drilled for drawer hardware and install the hardware before securing the cabinet to the wall; or is adding drawer hardware to an installed cabinet box doable? The countertops will be coming off, if that matters. The existing boxes are in good shape other than some yellowing around the edges (I would have to decide if I cared enough to do something about that, though I don't know what exactly -- advice welcome).

We are going to be doing this on a budget, but it's not so tight that we can't buy some new RTA cabs if that would work better (we will need a few anyway, with the layout I think I will be using). I am not too excited about the logo on the IKEA drawers, so even if we went with their cabinet frames I might order drawer boxes from somewhere else.

I also don't mind hiring out some of the installation, though normally I am comfortable with anything that can be done with hand tools and a cordless drill (like putting together RTA furniture, hanging stuff on walls, painting, etc). I'll have to hire a carpenter or our handyman at any rate to do the trims and countertop, unless I can talk DH into it. (Plumbing and electrical and flooring will be done by pros, in case anyone is wondering.)



clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 02:54 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 02:54 pm

RE: small folding 2-step stool? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: alwaysfixin on 12.15.2010 at 08:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have this Polder Mini 2-step stored under the sink. In our small kitchen, that was the only place we had for stepstool storage. It provides 17" of height on the top step. It is very stable, and holds up to 225 lbs. I like its cushioned-rubber pads on the steps which keep your feet from any slipping (versus the smooth steps of other step stools I saw). I don't have it in front of me, so can't measure its dimensions folded up, other than to say it fits under our sink. Perhaps call Polder's customer service number and ask them. We bought the stepstool on Amazon, and the price is good too.

Here is a link that might be useful: Polder Mini 2-step Stepstool


could fit by lazy susan
clipped on: 01.12.2011 at 03:49 pm    last updated on: 01.12.2011 at 03:50 pm