Clippings by wannabeGardnr

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

Sunflower house

posted by: samhain10 on 05.16.2013 at 08:09 am in Gardening with Kids Forum

I originally posted this on the Garden Experiments forum since I am not building my house with kids, but it is usually a child-related project, so - here's the original posting:

I'm working on plans for a sunflower house this season - anyone out there have first hand experience with this so as to give me pointers for success? I'll plant in a circle 10-12 ft in diameter with a 2-3 ft doorway, with Kong Sunflowers in the inner part of the perimeter and shorter varieties in front of those. I'm also thinking of planting a mini-garden of flowers in front of the "house" in the manner of a cottage garden. The whole area is in an already established garden space which is part of my veggie garden. Just thought I'd have some fun this year! :)

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 03.21.2014 at 05:50 pm    last updated on: 03.21.2014 at 05:51 pm

Should I be concerned about this trunk structure?

posted by: wannabeGardnr on 09.14.2013 at 03:03 pm in Conifers Forum

The tree is Picea glauca 'Pendula'. The trunk snakes up instead of going up straight. The main leader appears to have been cut off some time ago while it was quite thick, and a side shoot has been the leader for looks like more than a year. I saw evidence of resin dripping from the cut. I found some white droplets under the cut area.
I did pull out the tree. The few roots on the surface are brown, but it does not appear to be root bound.
The tree was not a fresh arrival at the nursery, and I'm afraid I didn't see all these details until today.
Is this fairly normal, or something I should return if they will allow a return?

This post was edited by wannabeGardnr on Sat, Sep 14, 13 at 16:29

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.18.2013 at 11:07 am    last updated on: 09.18.2013 at 11:07 am

Is this Pinus strobus 'Angel Falls'?

posted by: wannabeGardnr on 09.14.2013 at 03:38 pm in Conifers Forum

The nursery owner thought so, but the tag says Niagara Falls.

This post was edited by wannabeGardnr on Sat, Sep 14, 13 at 20:23

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.18.2013 at 11:07 am    last updated on: 09.18.2013 at 11:07 am

Picea abies 'Gold Drift' - rootbound?

posted by: wannabeGardnr on 09.14.2013 at 04:06 pm in Conifers Forum

I had to pay big bucks for this one. I wanted a smaller size and was willing to wait, but was told he wasn't sure if he could get any more, they are very hard to get. This is fresh stock, but would you call this rootbound? Almost looks field dug to me. Aren't those big roots that have been cut off, at the bottom?

Is this in the normal range for conifer roots?
Then what about the Pendula Bruns roots I posted about separately, where Dave was kindly guiding me.

I am very frustrated, and these images getting goofed up isn't helping.

This post was edited by wannabeGardnr on Sat, Sep 14, 13 at 16:27

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.18.2013 at 11:06 am    last updated on: 09.18.2013 at 11:06 am

Good nurseries close to Montgomery county, MD

posted by: wannabeGardnr on 09.14.2013 at 02:36 pm in Conifers Forum

Can you guys suggest some good nurseries for conifers close to me? I am in Montgomery county, Maryland. Specifically in Rockville, NorthWest of DC.
So far, I've bought from Suzanna Farm Nursery.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.18.2013 at 11:05 am    last updated on: 09.18.2013 at 11:06 am

My questionable purchase: Picea Omorika Pendula Bruns

posted by: wannabeGardnr on 09.12.2013 at 08:50 pm in Conifers Forum

This plant was on my list, and the nursery was recommended here last week. So I went as soon as I learned their new shipment had arrived. But they did not have a Picea Omorika Pendula Bruns in their new shipment. They had this old one sitting there for who knows how many seasons. Nursery owner called it ugly, and said it's obviously unhappy in the pot, but he thought it should do okay once in the ground. He said it still has buds.
What I thought - the top looked healthy, and if it grew a little sidewise, it would hide all the old growth, as the plant is small enough. I did not slip it out of the pot to look at the roots.
Is this a goner, aka lesson learned for next time? Do I have a decent chance with proper planting and watering?
It has an Iseli tag on it if that matters.

Is bamboo stick and Velcro plant ties okay for staking? How far from the base does the stick go? Or do I attach the new stick to the old stick? Is there a trick to minimize root damage? Do I stake now or wait until planted in 3 weeks or so? All the tops are beyond the existing stakes and bending.

This post was edited by wannabeGardnr on Fri, Sep 13, 13 at 10:30

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.18.2013 at 11:05 am    last updated on: 09.18.2013 at 11:05 am

RE: Rabbits biting off Norway Spruce (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: dcsteg on 03.07.2012 at 07:56 am in Conifers Forum

Until a few years ago my rabbit issues were moderate. Even with a full chain link fence. Until I wrapped the lower 3 ft. with a close strand wire mash did my problems go away. I spent 10 days on my hands and knees in 1 ft. snow and moderately cold temps after they nearly destroyed my conifer garden. Knawing tree bark, up liming most conifers...well you get the picture. The only time they took to my trees was when there was a heavy continuous snow pack. There food source was covered up thus the only other option to survive was tree bark and conifer greens.

If that is not an option the only two things that work are, I tried them both, a 177 cal. pellet gun. The other option that many people aren't aware of, is Sweet Gum Balls. Those spiny balls that drop from fall through winter from these nasty trees. Gather up as many as you will think you need and place them around the trees you want to protect. A 2 ft. circumference should be enough. Close crop the grass so there is no cushion for them to lay on. These gum balls have very sharp spiny ends which makes it very uncomfortable on the rabbits feet pads. They move on very quickly. Also place them under Hostas. The snails and slugs cannot navigate on these sharp spines either and you can enjoy damage free Hostas.

If none of these suggestions are not an option then good luck. Trapping has about a 10% success rate and the rabbits feed only after the sun goes down. Of course the chicken wire thing works but what a pain in the arss to rig this unsightly option into being especially if you have a lot of plants to protect.

If you look to the left of the 'Secrest W B' you can see the fine mash screen I added to the chain link fence.

Dave

Taxodium distichum 'Secrest W.B.', A very slow growing form originating from Secrest Arboretum, USA. It has a strikingly flat habit and older plants are twice as wide as they are tall with horizontally spreading branches. Suitable for heather or rock gardens or as a bonsai plant.This one grafted on a high standard. 7-12-2011

NOTES:

rabbit fence
clipped on: 08.29.2013 at 02:01 pm    last updated on: 08.29.2013 at 02:02 pm

Help choosing small japanese maple

posted by: Mikevette on 05.21.2013 at 09:20 pm in Maples Forum

Hello everyone,
I am wanting to plant a Dwarf Japanese maple in our courtyard, and would like some advice or opinions.
We have three Japanese maples now...
1 Blood good
1 Crimson queen lace leaf
1 Fire glow

I am looking for something with light green leaves, nice bark for the winter, but stays rather small...no more than 6 ft. tall.
So far I am considering...
Acer Ukon, Hoshi Kuzu, and Winter flame.
It will get afternoon shade and I am in Missouri.

Any thoughts or advice appreciated

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 05.31.2013 at 12:06 pm    last updated on: 05.31.2013 at 12:06 pm

RE: sunny day spruces (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: dansgrdn on 05.17.2009 at 05:50 pm in Conifers Forum

Thanks Barb and Richard.

Thanks for the nice comments Will. I think its mostly just a matter of taking photos when things are in their Spring prime. I don't fertilize the conifer beds, but one thing that may be a little different about my garden is that almost everything is planted in some type of raised bed or low burm. My soil below about 4 inches is heavy clay that you could throw on a potters wheel so I like to get things up. Fortunately there is a decent slope to my yard which makes this easy to do. As far as mulching goes I always use small to fine pine bark.

Thanks again, Dan

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 05.29.2013 at 02:04 pm    last updated on: 05.29.2013 at 02:05 pm

RE: How do you incorporate large conifers into the landscape? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: texjagman on 04.01.2013 at 04:18 pm in Conifers Forum

Assuming you can grow most shade plants in that area since you can grow Japanese maples in your yard close by, under that assumption I would do something like this to draw your eye out to that corner.

First, as commented earlier, I would come out to just in front of the spike leafed perrenial clump and put a nice sized boulder, buried half in the ground.

Then halfway between it and the pine, and offset a little to the left, I'd place a nice sized japanese maple...either Crimson Queen or Orangeola. Both are work horses, fairly tough, and will add a nice maroon to dark orange color in front of the pine. They both make nice sized mounds of cascading leaves and will fill the space below your pine nicely. Most all the big box stores are selling Crimson Queen now in pretty nice sizes, pretty cheap.

Then on the right side between the boulder and the pine I'd place maybe a Coppertina Ninebark, or a Purple Smoke tree / bush. Both hold a nice size and add good blending colors and contrasting textures to the maples.

Next to the boulder, on the right side I'd put something like a Scarlet Storm Quince and on the left maybe one of the dwarf mugo pines like Pumillo. Both will swell in size up against the boulder to give it a natural look. The Scarlet Storm will pull maroons from the maple while the Mugo will tie the big Umbraculifera down to the ground.

Finally, in front of the boulder I'd put in one or two Motherlode Junipers for some real color pop at ground level. They'll crawl across the ground and cover a lot of your ground space that's left.

Fill in any other space with a little green texture filler material and you're good to go.

Just some of my thoughts when I saw the space.

Mark

NOTES:

helpful design suggestion

texjagman, you'll be my guy for consultation

clipped on: 04.03.2013 at 01:17 pm    last updated on: 04.03.2013 at 01:18 pm

RE: Rose newbie looking for a great climber! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dublinbay on 03.17.2013 at 07:23 pm in Roses Forum

Check out David Austin's The Pilgrim (a white/yellow blend) or Teasing Georgia (stronger yellow/touch of apricot). They both get good ratings and should look good on brick.

You can order them from David Austin (bareroot and grafted) or potted from Roses Unlimited or from Chamblees (I think--not sure on that one)--probably ownroot from those two places. A number of other places would sell them also.

I also just recently saw Lady Ashe sold at Chamblees--I think she is wonderful (pinkish) and the description is great--fragrant and disease-resistant, just the height you want. If I had an open spot, I would order it immediately!

Hope that helps.

Kate

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 03.20.2013 at 01:19 am    last updated on: 03.20.2013 at 01:19 am

RE: nurseries in DC area? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: Filbert on 03.01.2005 at 02:24 pm in Mid-Atlantic Gardening Forum

My 2 cents.

Home Depot. Don't laugh. Quality varies greatly from store to store. The store at Merrifield (VA) actaully takes good care of their plants and you can sometimes find a variety of virburnum. Best return policy.

Meadow Farms. They have lots of stores. The quality of their plants and service varies significantly from store to store. I generally don't mind since I know what I want and they are likely to have it cheaper than other nurseries. Fairly good selection for the basics. They frequently have coupons in Thursday's Home Section of the Washington Post.

Betty's Azaleas. Great selection of azaleas and moderate selection of woody shrubs and trees. Prices are higher than MF.

Merrifields. Great selection of shrubs and trees, especially at the Fairfax store. Knowledgeable staff--although I still prefer to rely on Dirr's manual. Don't expect any discounts however. Maintaining a good selection and informative staff year round isn't cheap.

Sun Nurseries. Great selction, reasonable prices, intelligent staff, and good care for their plants. Just wish they weren't located way out near Olney, Md.

Costco. My favorite place for the basics. They sometimes have interesting stuff (even contorted filberts!) and since the stock usually flies off the lot, the plants don't have time to dry out. As for staff, you'd be lucky to find someone. The plants are good sized for the price. Best return policy.

Filbert

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.12.2012 at 02:07 pm    last updated on: 12.12.2012 at 02:08 pm

RE: Japanese Gardens in DC area (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: patings on 06.16.2009 at 05:13 am in Japanese Gardens Forum

Nell, although this is virtual, I have been told (Guestbook e.o.) that people do find inspiration at Tsubo-en.
Enjoy,

Here is a link that might be useful: Tsubo-en Zen Garden, Netherlands

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.04.2012 at 12:35 am    last updated on: 12.04.2012 at 12:36 am

RE: Japanese Gardens in DC area (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: roychettan on 06.22.2009 at 04:24 pm in Japanese Gardens Forum

I have one in my back yard - japanese gardern for small space. It is in Herndon, VA, near route 28.

you can see it here (may be little slow some times)
http://www.zillow.com/homedetails/photos/51703020_zpid/#

thanks

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.04.2012 at 12:35 am    last updated on: 12.04.2012 at 12:35 am

RE: Japanese Gardens in DC area (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: roychettan on 08.05.2009 at 08:38 pm in Japanese Gardens Forum

please see my blog

(How to create a Japanese garden)

http://roychettan.blogspot.com/

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.04.2012 at 12:35 am    last updated on: 12.04.2012 at 12:35 am