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Calling all Kindle experts!

posted by: alisande on 12.26.2011 at 02:34 pm in Kitchen Table Forum

For those of us (like me) who received a Kindle for Christmas, could we go over the Kindle helpful hints again, please? In the past, some of you have mentioned websites that offer special deals and free e-books, etc., and other tips. I could use a refresher course.

Thanks for your help!

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clipped on: 12.27.2011 at 03:48 pm    last updated on: 12.27.2011 at 03:48 pm

Never Wax Your Hoo-Ha (A Funny..Long)

posted by: jasdip on 03.22.2011 at 08:19 pm in Kitchen Table Forum


All hair removal methods have tricked women with their promises of easy, painless removal - The Epilady, scissors, razors, Nair and now...the wax. Read on..........

My night began as any other normal weeknight. Fix dinner, watch the grand kids come and go.

I then had the thought that would ring painfully in my mind for the next few hours: 'Maybe I should get the waxing kit from the medicine cabinet.

So I headed to the site of my demise: the bathroom.

It was one of those 'cold wax' kits. No melting a clump of hot wax, you just rub the strips together in your hand, they get warm and you peel them apart and press them to your leg (or wherever else) and you pull the hair right off. No muss, no fuss. How hard can it be?

I mean, I'm not a genius, but I am mechanically inclined enough to figure this out. (YA THINK!?!) So I pull one of the thin strips out. Its two strips facing each other stuck together.

Instead of rubbing them together, my genius kicks in so I get out the hair dryer and heat it to 1000 degrees. ('Cold wax,' yeah...right!)

I lay the strip across my thigh. Hold the skin around it tight and pull.

It works!

OK, so it wasn't the best feeling, but it wasn't too bad. I can do this! Hair removal no longer eludes me!

I am She-rah, fighter of all wayward body hair and maker of smooth skin extraordinaire.

With my next wax strip I move north. After checking on the family, I sneak back into the bathroom for the ultimate hair fighting championship.

I drop my granny panties and place one foot on the toilet..

Using the same procedure, I apply the wax strip across the right side of my bikini line, covering the right half of my hoo-ha and stretching down to the inside of my butt cheek (it was a long strip).

I inhale deeply and brace myself.... RRRRIIIPPP!!!!

I'm blind!!! Blinded from pain!!!!..... OH MY GAWD!!!!!!!!!
Vision returning, I notice that I've only managed to pull off half the strip.

CRAP!

Another deep breath and RIPP! Everything is spinning and spotted.

I think I may pass out.... I must stay conscious... I must stay conscious.

Do I hear crashing drums??? Breathe, breathe.... OK, back to normal.

I want to see my trophy - a wax covered strip, the one that has caused me so much pain, with my hairy pelt sticking to it. I want to revel in the glory that is my triumph over body hair.

I hold up the strip!

There's no hair on it.

Where is the hair???

WHERE IS THE WAX???

Slowly I ease my head down, foot still perched on the toilet.

I see the hair. The hair that should be on the strip... it's not!

I touch.. I am touching wax.

I run my fingers over the most sensitive part of my body, which is now covered in cold wax and matted hair.

Then I make the next BIG mistake ... remember my foot is still propped upon the toilet? So I put my foot down.

Sealed shut! My butt is sealed shut. Sealed shut!
I penguin walk around the bathroom trying to figure out what to do and think to myself 'Please don't let me get the urge to poop� My head may pop off!'

What can I do to melt the wax?

Hot water!! Hot water melts wax!! I'll run the hottest water I can stand in the bathtub, get in, immerse the wax-covered bits and the wax should melt and I can gently wipe it off, right ???

*WRONG!!!!!!!*

I get in the tub - the water is slightly hotter than that used to torture prisoners of war or sterilize surgical equipment - I sit.

Now, the only thing worse than having your nether regions glued together, is having them glued together and then glued to the bottom of the tub.... in scalding hot water.

Which, by the way, does not melt cold wax.

So, now I'm stuck to the bottom of the tub as though I had cemented myself to the porcelain!!

God bless the AT&T man who had convinced me a few months ago to have a phone put in the bathroom!!!!!

I call my friend, thinking surely she has waxed before and has some secret of how to get me undone. It's a very good conversation starter.

'So, my butt and hoo-ha are glued together to the bottom of the tub!'

There is a slight pause. She doesn't know any secret tricks for removal but she does try to hide her laughter from me.

She wants to know exactly where the wax is located, 'Are we talking cheeks or hoo-ha?'

She's laughing out loud by now ... I can hear her.

I give her the rundown and she suggests I call the number on the side of the box.

YEAH!!!!! Right!! I should be the joke of someone else's night.

While we go through various solutions, I resort to trying to scrape the wax off with a razor. Nothing feels better than to have your girlie goodies covered in hot wax, glued shut, stuck to the tub in super hot water and then dry-shaving the sticky wax off!!

By now the brain is not working, dignity has taken a major hike and I'm pretty sure I'm going to need Post-Traumatic Stress counseling for this event.

My friend is still talking with me when I finally see my saving grace.....the lotion they give you to remove the excess wax.

What do I really have to lose at this point?

I rub some on and OH MY GOD!!! The scream probably woke the family and scared the dickens out of my friend.

It's sooo painful, but I really don't care.

'IT WORKS!!

I get a hearty congratulation from my friend and she hangs up.
I successfully remove the remainder of the wax and then notice to my grief and despair....THE HAIR IS STILL THERE.......ALL OF IT!

So I recklessly shave it off. Heck, I'm numb by now. Nothing hurts. I could have amputated my own leg at this point.

Next week I'm going to try hair color......how bad can that turn out???

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clipped on: 11.06.2011 at 05:43 pm    last updated on: 11.06.2011 at 05:43 pm

RE: Sales Tax calculations lesson and help with etsy needed. (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: christopherh on 10.25.2011 at 07:26 am in Crafts and Decorations Forum

It's really quite easy once you get the hang of it.

Let's say you are selling and want to round up to $10. And your state tax is 6%. How much are you charging for your product?

Take out your trusty dusty calculator and do the following.

Type in 10. Then DIVIDE that number by 1.06 and you will get the sales price.

Works every time.


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clipped on: 10.26.2011 at 04:00 pm    last updated on: 10.26.2011 at 04:00 pm

RE: Hanging Succulent Sphere (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: rock_oak_deer on 06.11.2010 at 11:15 am in Garden Junk Forum

Edna's projects are beautiful and that egg basket is so cute.
I'm going to have to try some of those.

I've read about this, but haven't done it yet and one good tip I found was to put a piece of cardboard or something on top of one basket so the dirt stays in when you turn it over to put them together. The pull the cardboard out before lacing the baskets together.


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clipped on: 09.01.2011 at 08:07 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2011 at 08:07 pm

RE: Hanging Succulent Sphere (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: kat__wa on 06.11.2010 at 11:19 am in Garden Junk Forum

If you use the 2 baskets, I wonder if you couldn't
put a piece of styrofoam in the center of each
to cut down on the weight? I don't think that hens
and chicks have a really deep root system.
And putting a block of styrofoam might alleviate the
weight... just a thought... even a small ball
of foam could help.

I think I need to look in to this! lol looks fun!


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clipped on: 09.01.2011 at 08:06 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2011 at 08:06 pm

RE: Hanging Succulent Sphere (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: sprout_wi on 06.10.2010 at 08:27 pm in Garden Junk Forum

I read a tutorial on this years ago, when I made a living wreath of succulents.

At the garden centers you have probably seen the half-round metal baskets lined with dried moss that you buy and plant yourself. You will need two of these half-rounds in order to make the solid ball. You will fill each side with potting soil and then carefully wire the two sides together to make a full circle. Now you have a ball of soil, encased in dried moss, inside of a metal cage. With a sharp knife, you will cut a slit large enough to plant your succulent - planting enough succulents to nearly cover the ball, but allow for spread. Add a chain for hanging, and water well. I found that mine tended to dry out very fast. Good luck.
-Sprout


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clipped on: 06.10.2010 at 09:13 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2011 at 08:03 pm

My first craft fair experience

posted by: concretenprimroses on 08.28.2011 at 12:14 pm in Garden Junk Forum

It was a beautiful beautiful day which was very lucky considering that we are getting the hurricane today.

To start with the bottom line: I sold $364 worth of stuff. Including 22 plate flowers, 1 teapot totem, and 6 or 7 rebar-pole combos. One plate flower was stolen, which was very disheartening because it happened before I sold anything. My friend and I split the booth cost so we each paid $30.

I was still setting up when the fair started, so I forgot to take pictures until the afternoon when our very attractive booth was looking a little tired and a lot of product was gone so I'd taken down some of the displays. Its too bad because it was really pretty at first. People stopped and commented on how nice it looked even tho they weren't interested in our products. It wasn't hard to be distinctive, cuz most of the other booths just had tables with stuff laid on them. There was a lot of diversity among the crafts and very few repeats (except jewelry)so it was a very good fair for shopping.

Somehow we lucked out and got a perfect spot. On a corner so we had two exposed sides right next to the crosswalk to the library book sale. The pics below are less than an hour before closing unfortunately. I set up with a friend who makes gorgeous purses and pillows out of antique bark cloth.
Her things were a little bit upscale for this fair but in addition to the little purse that I bought to carry to 2 weddings next month, she sold 3 others plus 1 pillow. So she was happy to sell anything cuz it was a test. One woman who really loved her things and bought a purse, suggested a fair that she thought would work better for her which was very encouraging. Our stuff looked awesome together even tho it was so different.

I got lots of good comments. First the crafters came and I could see they were thinking "I can make that" but I got lots of praise. I didn't tell people how I made them. But if another crafter asked because they needed a glue that would last outside for their product, I offered them my card and said they could email me, but that I didn't want to discuss it in the context of selling. Very few took me up on it. Toward lunch time, I started selling. Many times a person (woman) walking by would stop and look at the little trellis with plate flowers that I had out front in pleased amazement. Thanks to the helpful comments I had a picture of them in my garden with a description right at eye level on the trellis. We were set up in such a way that it was easy to walk right in.

So here are the end of the sale pics. I so wish I'd taken some earlier. The metal milk crate that has wrapping materials in the pic, was upside down with plate flowers hanging on it at the beginning, and I had another small trellis with flowers on the table as well. Sigh.

Photobucket

We anchored the corner with Katie's awesome big trellis covered with her bags, then my pot of flowers with 2 plate flowers at the back corner. I say back, but it is the first thing people saw who were passing by from the library.

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Here is my small trellis, description and sign. The small trellis was covered with plate flowers at the beginning. This is where the stolen one was. A friend suggested the name Endless Summer and the little flower logo. I made the signs with my cutting machine at work and with some silver vinyl I bought by mistake.
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I spray painted my old metal chair turquoise (it had been white and holding a plant in the garden.) It had 6 plate flowers on it at the height of the sale. Next to it was a small trellis with plate flowers, and the milk crate had plate flowers. The concrete pieces I brought to hold the table cloth and stablize the display pieces.
Photobucket

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Thanks for looking, and for all the helpful suggestions. I was totally exhausted when i got home. Lots to load and unload and carry. And all those hours standing up and pretending to be friendly, lol. (I am friendly, just in a more quiet introvert way. I really put myself out there.) Then as soon as I got home, I had to pick up in the yard for the storm. I fell asleep on the couch with my little dog. I think I'd do it again. It was fun though very tiring. Hopefully it will be easier next time. I'd like to do one that was 10 to 2 instead of 9 to 3.

I'll post what I learned later in this thread once I've thought about it some more.

Kathy

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clipped on: 09.01.2011 at 08:00 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2011 at 08:00 pm

RE: Help -- Google Redirect virus hit me (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: ravencajun on 11.21.2010 at 08:50 am in Computer Help Forum

you need to get assistance for this one at a support forum this is one that is very very hard to get fully rid of with out help running some special scans. Go to this forum and register then post your thread in the area I am linking you to.
Analysis and Malware Removal

they will help you get it fully removed. If you need help registering there just let me know I am over there also.


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clipped on: 11.29.2010 at 08:12 pm    last updated on: 11.29.2010 at 08:12 pm

RE: Messed up my computer big-time (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: ravencajun on 10.13.2010 at 02:30 pm in Computer Help Forum

I will suggest you try asking over at LzD, some of the people there actually do work at microsoft and may have some idea. I have none. This would be the area to ask.
Computer Problems, Questions and Solutions!

there is also a microsoft specific forum at BBR
Microsoft Help

the one person that I know of that knows alot about the area you were in is Black Viper, he is quite famous around the web as is his website, he does have forums and he does offer his email addy on his site, this is the page with his info.
Contact Black Viper
you might try his forum.
Those are my suggestions.


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clipped on: 10.25.2010 at 03:07 pm    last updated on: 10.25.2010 at 03:15 pm

RE: Messed up my computer big-time (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: ravencajun on 10.14.2010 at 02:31 pm in Computer Help Forum

the only problem might be if your pc is not set to boot from cd, if not and you are not able to access the bios to change that setting then you may not be able to use a cd.

You can burn linux live cd free from many sites online, it has to be burned as an iso image.
The easiest place to find one is at most book stores that carry linux magazines, many have a free linux live cd included in the magazine.
Using a linux live cd you put the cd in the drive and then boot the pc, it should boot from the cd instead of the hard drive if it is set to, once the cd boots you can use it right from the cd drive, you do not want to install linux!! you simply want to run it from the cd, when you do that you will be able to see your hard drive and your windows area including your files, you can then access them and copy them to a flash drive or external drive.

some tutorials on how to do this
Use Ubuntu Live CD to Backup Files from Your Dead Windows Computer

Geek to Live: Rescue files with a boot CD


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clipped on: 10.25.2010 at 03:14 pm    last updated on: 10.25.2010 at 03:14 pm

RE: Messed up my computer big-time (Follow-Up #31)

posted by: ravencajun on 10.16.2010 at 06:23 pm in Computer Help Forum

put cd in drawer turn off pc, reboot pc it should boot from the cd rather than from windows you will see the same thing I showed you in the screen shots, it will ask to select the language select English it will then do a count down to boot and boot from the cd, you are then running off of linux cd, all your functions should work since you are not using windows at all. go to the computer icon on the linux desktop and select it, find the hard drive there, locate your files, right click them and copy to your flash drive.

pretty much how it should go.

If you want to be safe with that pc why not just disconnect it from the internet while your AV and firewall are down?Since you have not been able to do anything with it or go anywhere online with it my guess is that you are fine.


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CD is a Linux CD burned in ISO type. Free ones can be found on Net.
clipped on: 10.25.2010 at 03:12 pm    last updated on: 10.25.2010 at 03:13 pm

Having A Ball

posted by: dcarch on 09.07.2009 at 07:48 am in Garden Junk Forum

As promised in another thread about hollow concrete balls, here is a very easy way of making a different kind of ball.
This will give you a ball of unlimited size, very round, and very light weight.

1. Get a large round balloon.
2. Wrap twine around the inflated balloon.
3. Coat it with two-part casting polyester with a brush.
4. Wait a day for it to cure.
5. Deflate balloon and you are done.

The one shown was made by me 20 years ago for lanterns in the garden. Bowling ball next to it is to give you an idea of its size.
There are many ways to use this balloon to make something else, including a very large hollow cement ball, or a stained-glass look lantern, etc.

Have fun.

dcarch


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clipped on: 09.14.2009 at 05:24 pm    last updated on: 09.14.2009 at 05:24 pm

My new idea for plate flowers awesome!!!

posted by: gardencraze on 08.31.2009 at 09:00 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Remember I said I was working on an idea for the plate flowers????
Well Ithink this is it

After I made my plate and it was very dry, I flatten a soup
spoon with a hammer and glued it to the back of the plate, when the spoon was dry to the plate, (very dry)
Using 1/2 inch metal electrical pipe I hammered the pipe in the ground and simply sliped the end of the spoon into the pipe.So easy and worked like a charm and is very sturdy and looks very clean. I just didn't like that elbow sticking out in the back.

Please tell me what you think good or bad I can handle it LOL Here are pix.

new plate flower Idea

new plate flower Idea

rose and blue together

roses are red plate flower

I need to take a pic of the back it looks really good and clean
I'm not blue

I tried a fork as you can see but I didn't like how it looked. oh and I got that slant I was looking for by bending the spoon a little.

Thanks for looking
Carmen

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great plate flowers
clipped on: 09.03.2009 at 09:41 pm    last updated on: 09.03.2009 at 09:41 pm

RE: Shrimp Festival Totems, Plate Flowers Etc...... (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: ncshabbybeach on 08.12.2009 at 09:08 am in Garden Junk Forum

Soo many questions!!! Sorry I took so long getting back!!! Lets see.. I use pvc and cpvc for support on vases, I put a cap on the cpvc and geII'd it to the inside bottom of the vase then cut a taper on the other end so it would push into the ground easily. I did sell quite a bit. I priced them at what I thought I might pay for them .... Bobbers $20, Ladybugs $15, Bottle bugs $10, Mini Bottle Bugs $5, Large Totems $60, Smaller Totems $40, Plate Flowers were $20 for Larger and $15 for smaller. I also sold them without the pipe, I figured the customer could find a piece of 1/2 inch pipe. I have found that tourists like to have a variety of prices to choose from and I have had much success pricing this way. I try very hard to keep track of what I spend for each project and make sure that I have a profit of 30% or more. I made 3 dozen of the tiny bottle bugs and sold all but 2, with an investment of $20 they were my most profitable item!!! I will post a pic of them when I can. All but one of the larger Bottle bugs sold, I made 9 of them the night before but I forgot to take pics...:-( I won't forget next time, so you see I do forget some things. I sold some Totems, butterfly baths and Bird baths...still have some left for the next selling opportunity which will be the last hoorah of the summer "Labor Day Weekend"!!! As for my energy..slowly running out but I pick my DGD up this afternoon and get a recharge!!!! We are going to the beach and building a sand castle! I can Hardly wait! so TTFN.....Miss ya all...I will lurk some until I have time to sit down and post something again. Thanks again to all for your great compliments!!!

Carrie

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clipped on: 08.16.2009 at 08:35 pm    last updated on: 08.16.2009 at 08:35 pm

Shrimp Festival Totems, Plate Flowers Etc......

posted by: ncshabbybeach on 08.08.2009 at 09:52 pm in Garden Junk Forum

I wanted to share with you all what I did with all of those wonderful items you have pushed me into making!!! Let's see....Totems, Plate Flowers, Bottle Bugs, Bowling Ball Bobbers and Lady Bugs, Butterfly Baths...need I say more. All of you have inspired this madness!!!! LOL I have enjoyed every minute and really enjoyed putting the results up for sale to see what would happen! I have been overwhelmed with the response!!! I had a great Day! I am so blessed to have come to this forum and I think I will stick around for a while. I have been gone for a few days but I will catch up with you all and comment on some of your postings!!! I hope you all have a great week!!!!


Here is a link that might be useful: My Blog....

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clipped on: 08.16.2009 at 08:35 pm    last updated on: 08.16.2009 at 08:35 pm

RE: leaf imprints (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Billie_ann on 06.01.2004 at 01:48 pm in Hypertufa Forum

GB, I've used lots of things including lavendar, beech tree branches and certain conifers. My viburnum isn't particular thick or have deep veins, which is what you usually want. When I make troughs and planters if there's any hypertufa left over I make "tiles" to experiment with different leaves. I have some 4" and 6" square plastic containers. You spray them with PAM, place the leaf with the vein side facing up in the bottom and pat your hypertufa on top. I used these for samples when I first started making planters. Later, when I saw what would work, I'd place hangers on the backs and sell the "tiles" for garden wallhangings. Don't know if I mentioned in another post but I've used wood stain for years on my leaf imprints, besides arylic paints. Got to go get ready to teach a hypertufa class tonight at a local nature center.
Puddle, I use equal parts Portland cement, sand and peat moss. I add just enough water to make a dry mix. If I want to vary the color, I take out the peat moss and use perlite or vermiculite. You can also use white portland cement, white sand and perlite or vermiculite for a whiter look. The white recipes also show colors better. I like a more muted color myself. Thanks for liking my pots. Billie

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clipped on: 07.26.2009 at 10:20 pm    last updated on: 07.26.2009 at 10:20 pm

leaf imprints

posted by: Billie_ann on 05.31.2004 at 08:01 pm in Hypertufa Forum

Gardenerboy, Leaf imprints are easy. I like plasticware for molds. Just spray the inside of the plastic with PAM (vegetable baking spray),place hypertufa in bottom of mold and tamp, add your drainhole. Depending on the size and shape of the mold determine where you're going to place the leaves. Build your hypertufa up the walls to the point you want your leaves. Make a hamburger size patty of hypertufa and with one hand hold the leaf (vein side/bottom of the leaf facing the hypertufa) in place and place the patty over the leaf. Blend the edges of the patties together. Don't work the hypertufa too much on top of the leaf, it will embed the leaf too far into the hypertufa. Unmold in 24 hours (I unmold up to 24" planters in 24 hours)and remove your leaves. Some leaves pull away clean others you have to pick out after the container cures. You can rough up the sides at this time or leave them smooth. Wrap back up in a plastic bag and place in shade to cure for a couple of days. I just got done making a few small ones for a class tomorrow and they'll look like the picture that I'm posting. Billie

Image link: leaf imprints (36 k)

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clipped on: 07.26.2009 at 10:19 pm    last updated on: 07.26.2009 at 10:19 pm

RE: hypertufa photo gallery (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: valolson1 on 07.22.2009 at 04:37 pm in Hypertufa Forum

When doing hypertufa, I think we all want to achieve that "elegant primitive" look. Yes, we want it primitive, but not amateurish. What I always do when I unmold is take a wirebrush to the piece. There is a limited time you can wirebrush and that is usually within about 24-32 hours, depending on how hot or cold the weather is. On an especially large piece, I wirebrush the outside exposed part, but let it set another 24 hours before unmolding...to make sure it is hard enough to flip over. Believe me, I've broken many a piece by "flipping before it's time".

To achieve that "elegant primitive" look, I religiously wirebrush, and then I save the "shavings" for the next batch. Then, I take a putty knife to the edges. I do not like a rough or uneven edge, and many of my customers don't either. I carve around the outside edge, as well as the inside edge. I want it to have that look of being chiseled out of a rock, much like an Indian grinding stone or metate.

My favorite part of hypertufa, is wirebrushing and carving with my putty knife. Even tho I "de-clump" my peat moss before mixing, I never worry about those random clumps of peat moss, because they usually leave the most interesting pit marks.

Much of the success with hypertufa is just using the recipe of equal parts of peat moss, portland cement and perlite. The other part of it is using plastic bags over everything you use for a mold. If it's big, it never hurts to use 2 or 3 bags. It makes it so much easier to release the mold from your project. I've also found that when you find plastic bowls or other type molds with no edges or seams, your finished piece will have a more seamless "rock like" look. Another trick I like to use is to use a mold within a mold. In other words you can do an inside mold and fill with mud. Take a smaller bowl or whatever you want to use that's smaller, and cover it with plastic. Squeegee (spelling???) or squish it down the center until you have the depth and width you want. Take out the inner mold. At this point, I like to use a plastic wrapped nerf ball (in other words, don't unwrap it when new) and just roll it around the edges. It gives it that rock-like smooth edge. This nerf ball is one of my best tools. You'll see.

You can experiment with a square shape like one of those plastic trays that carry flats of plants. You line the tray with two garbage bags and fill with mud. Take a smaller bowl, covered in a plastic bag, and squish it down the center. You'll have a nice circle within a square. These are great birdbaths for meditation type gardens.

Sometimes, I feel like people make it way too hard. I basically like to keep it simple and have found that this makes for the most interesting look.

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clipped on: 07.26.2009 at 10:09 pm    last updated on: 07.26.2009 at 10:09 pm

RE: Newbie Here with a Question... (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: plantman56 on 07.22.2009 at 10:41 pm in Hypertufa Forum

LEAF CASTING INSTUCTIONS

Ingredients

□ Portland Cement- 90lb bag (do not buy broken bags)
□ Play Sand or any very fine sand
□ Concrete bonding agent
□ Leaf with firm veins i.e. Hosta
□ Heavy duty plastic spoon, and knife
□ Container to mix ingredients
□ Clear wrap
□ Yogurt container
□ Water

Mix the portland cement and sand .

Use the yogurt cup to measure 1 - part portland cement , 2 - parts sand. Place the dry ingredients in the mixing container. You may need more or less ingredients depending on the size of the leaf.

Add a small amount bonding agent to about 1 cup of water. Pour the water into the dry mix and slowly mix until get a gooey paste. Do not over agitate.

Let the mix rest about 5 min.

Place a scoop or two of damp sand on your flat surface. Then pick out a nice leaf (no holes) and place it on top of the damp sand mound, veins up. Then shape the sand mound to support the leaf. Remove leaf and cover sand with plastic wrap. Return the leaf back on top of the damp sand (covered with plastic wrap).

Using the plastic spoon, scoop the gooey mix, placing it on the center of the vein side of the leaf. Pat the mix, moving towards the edge. Add more mix to the center (on top of the first flattened scoop) Pat the mix out to the edge of the leaf. Use the plastic knife to keep the mix close to the edge. Try to make your leaves about " " thick.

Cover with plastic wrap and keep moist for about 24 hrs.

Carefully lift the cement leaf, turn over and remove the leaf. Do not work too hard, the leaf may break.

Keep leaf damp for about 1 week.

Paint with craft paints, or any type of stain. Seal with concrete water sealer if you want to keep outside.

Much of this came from instructions I received from Billie or the internet.

I will let someone else respond to the mold question
----Mike

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clipped on: 07.26.2009 at 10:06 pm    last updated on: 07.26.2009 at 10:06 pm

RE: Cutting Tip For Breaking Scored Sheets (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: cacbeary on 01.27.2008 at 11:25 am in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

NT - That's what I said aha!Yes I'm learning from the BB guy. You just have to keep halving it. I told him that's a tip to put in the instruction sheet. I think it will be mosaickers that buy the system more than glassers.

After I made the shoe my aunt bought 2 of every color of mirror. I scored all the glass & finished & she was still breaking apart the mirror. I showed her how to quarter the sheet & then she was breaking the mirror apart. She was getting so many bad breaks & breaking wrong. We sealed the pieces & she took the rest home to break & I don't think it went well for her & she was a bit upset.

I'm allowed to ask ANY question I want so I say fire away. He's been working in stained glass since 1992 & started inventing all his stuff to make it easier. He even makes kilns - he must be a real inventive guy.

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clipped on: 01.03.2009 at 08:19 pm    last updated on: 01.03.2009 at 08:19 pm

Cutting Tip For Breaking Scored Sheets

posted by: cacbeary on 01.27.2008 at 01:50 am in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

I learned a cutting tip today I thought I'd share.

Slow - you know how you said to quarter the glass before you start breaking into tiles?

The way to do it is to break the glass in half, then half it again - that would be a quarter, but then you are to keep on halving it. The reason being is it keeps equal pressure on the glass. You will get a better break in the glass. If not it puts pressure on the left side.

Cool beans!

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clipped on: 01.03.2009 at 08:18 pm    last updated on: 01.03.2009 at 08:18 pm

RE: directions please!!!! totally new (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: valolson1 on 04.12.2008 at 12:28 am in Hypertufa Forum

Leaf casting is fairly easy if you have the right leaf. The best ones are rhubarb, the blue-green hosta leaves and gunnera because they have very prominent veins. I like to keep my leaves in water to keep them very getting brittle and have used many of them several times before I have to toss them.

Just mound some sand on your work surface and place a garbage bag over the sand. Place your leaf on top of the mounded garbage bag, vein side up, centering around the mound, so that when the leaf is unmolded, you have a natural "cupped" effect. If you want the leaf to be flat, just don't mound the sand. Now take your hypertufa mix (my standard recipe is one part peat moss, one part perlite and one-half part portland). So in other words, if you use two scoops of peat moss and perlite, use one scoop of portland cement. Now scoop your mud on the leaf, working from the middle out. I usually make it about 3/4 to an inch thick in the middle, depending on the size of the leaf, and thin it out as I approach the outer edges. Basically, I just cover the leaf with mud, following the natural outline of the leaf. Now, I keep my hands off of it and let it cure for at least two days before unmolding. You're patience will win out when it's time to unmold. Just gently lift the leaf off the leaf off the garbage bag, supporting it in the middle with your hand. Turn it right side up and avoid handling the edges as they are the most fragile part. Gently peel off the leaf and admire your handiwork. You may want to clean up the edges a bit with a putty knife, but you don't want to wire brush. Check the gallery page for a picture of a rhubarb leaf table I made.

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clipped on: 11.07.2008 at 03:59 pm    last updated on: 11.07.2008 at 04:00 pm

Spindle Birdhouses

posted by: countrygrl on 08.18.2007 at 02:26 pm in Garden Junk Forum

A couple weeks ago, I asked everyone what they did with their crocks. I didn't want to plant in it, so, of course, I had to make something!







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clipped on: 11.04.2008 at 01:47 pm    last updated on: 11.04.2008 at 01:47 pm

3 of 9 Psycho Pig

posted by: stjohnsgypsy on 12.16.2007 at 02:24 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Psycho Pig..this is God awful...not sure why I'm even sharing it with you...other than it is one of several projects finished......and the BACON IS DONE..pretty bad grouting, etc.....not a piece that I can say I'm happy with..was started Christmas last.......but IT IS WHAT IT IS...looks like one of my beginning projects....have a good laugh...it's okay...!!!! This is for my wonderful ex-mother-in-law..she's 85...hope she still likes pigs!














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clipped on: 11.03.2008 at 02:11 pm    last updated on: 11.03.2008 at 02:11 pm

RE: How to drill a hole in a ceramic 'thing?' (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: curbdiver1954 on 01.18.2008 at 04:08 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

If I am trying to put a hole in something like a teacup that has a foot which will act as a sort of water well, I fill that area with water and drill away. When the point of the bit goes thru, the water usually drains out fast, so I do what flagtruck does and start dipping the bit every minute or two. The trick is to keep it from getting hot and burning out the cutting edges. The same dipping action works for anything that doesn't have a "well", but I usually fashion my own for the sake of time. You can use kid's clay (cheap stuff from $ tree), roll a rope long enough to surround a large enough area to be practical, seal the edges to the piece you're drilling and fill the resulting well with water.

Pat

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clipped on: 11.02.2008 at 09:26 pm    last updated on: 11.02.2008 at 09:26 pm

RE: Question about beads and crash glass (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: linlee on 01.21.2008 at 03:01 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

I've been researching crash glass for future use and
the consensus seems to be to get some larger cracked, yet
not all broken up pieces in the pictures too.
One of the ideas was to paint Weldbond on 1 side and let it dry before you
broke it (this would be a new piece of glass of course ;)
Then when it broke you'd have chunks along with the bits.
And yes, you glue & grout just like other glass.

About the beads; I use bigger beads so the cleaning process isn't such a nightmare.

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clipped on: 11.02.2008 at 09:17 pm    last updated on: 11.02.2008 at 09:17 pm

RE: Bowling Ball Beginner Needs Help (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: chickeemama on 02.17.2008 at 03:54 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Depending on what finish you have on your ball is probably going to decide what you do to it. The ball I did was not a shiny ball so I did not ruff it up at all just glued the pieces to it (and used the wrong glue and 3 years later it fell apart!!!) I believe you only have to ruff it up if it is super shiny.

Covering it in thinset is a sure fire method to get everything to adhere to it. I did that with a styrofoam ball and it lnow lives in Colorado and is doing fine!!!

Here is a picture of the one I did with thin set and the one that I used the wrong glue!!!

thinset ball

Nikis ball

mirror ball with wrong glue used

first every bowling ball

They are fun to do and tend to do well for auctions and such. Good luck!!

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clipped on: 11.01.2008 at 08:54 pm    last updated on: 11.01.2008 at 08:55 pm

RE: Crash Glass Info Needed (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: meadel on 10.31.2008 at 05:35 am in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Congrats on your score ! TG is fun to work with..small but fun.
I can only tell you how I broke my storm door glass.
I cleaned it well and then I put it in a construction bag ( the heavy duty plastic one) and smashed the corner with a hammer...several times. It wouldn't break ! So I scored it with my glass cutter and hit it again~~ voila it all fell nicely into the bag. I have a lot of single pieces and some large clusters that are nice to work with.
I use MW's tip about using Funtak on a pencil eraser to help pick up the pieces.
I'll look forward to other replies about painting and breaking.

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clipped on: 11.01.2008 at 08:20 pm    last updated on: 11.01.2008 at 08:21 pm

RE: Glass Windchimes (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: gretch1964 on 10.22.2008 at 11:54 pm in Garden Junk Forum

I drill glass all the time as i make windchimes and sell them. I use a 9x13 baking dish and put water in it and then a peice of scrap glass. Put the glass you want to drill on top of that scrap piece, now when you start to drill put the bit at an angle then straight up and down. And before you know it your through.

I use a dremel tool. I buy my bits of ebay in a small 5 pcs set. And i only pay like 7 bucks for all 5. And they last along time.

Have fun making them. It is so much fun.

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clipped on: 10.26.2008 at 09:29 pm    last updated on: 10.26.2008 at 09:29 pm

RE: Glass Windchimes (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: dcarch on 10.22.2008 at 08:21 pm in Garden Junk Forum

For larger holes, use diamond core drill bits.

You will need a drill press to do this.

dcarch

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clipped on: 10.26.2008 at 09:28 pm    last updated on: 10.26.2008 at 09:28 pm

RE: Pruning a Vitex (chaste tree) (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: tom123 on 10.17.2008 at 01:08 am in Florida Gardening Forum

My Vitex is still shooting out a few flowers. It's about three or four years old and blooms primarily in one flush in late spring. If you prune the flowers it will bloom somewhat again. Right now it's going into its fall/winter mode and the leaves are shriveling up and dropping off. It's a favorite for hummingbirds when it's in bloom.

I prune it pretty heavy right now usually and it comes back strong in the spring. This fall I think I'm going to let it grow and see how it does in the spring. I will, however, deadhead it.

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clipped on: 10.17.2008 at 01:54 pm    last updated on: 10.17.2008 at 01:54 pm

RE: Pruning a Vitex (chaste tree) (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: the_musicman on 10.13.2008 at 01:33 pm in Florida Gardening Forum

Hi!
welcome Nicole!

You've come to the right place. The Florida forum is the best. I don't care what anyone else says.

As to your questions...
Was it healthy when you bought it? Do not be afraid of pruning too much. You can prune Vitex to the ground, and it will come right back. It is usually an extremely tough plant. Of course, in the next few weeks is the time when Vitex starts to lose its leaves, and it remains leafless from about November through March. Pruning will encourage bushiness and if you want to prune it, go ahead and do it now.

Vitex is not related to Cannabis, although the leaves are fantastically similar. Different families. However, Vitex does have a variety of medicinal properties, as do many of its siblings in the Vervain family. I grow Vitex negundo, which is a very similar species, and has serrated leaves which look even more like Cannabis ;)

My Vitex has never been anything but outstanding for me. It established quickly and has been very tolerant of drought and neglect. It is planted on a slope in full sun and gets sporadic water and is mulched well. It sends up tons of nicely fragrant flowers and attracts every kind of nectar loving insect. 15 months ago, it was a seedling, and now it is about a 5 foot tree. I prune it to a single trunk; the thing is constantly sending up suckers.

I hope some of this helped you out.
Again, welcome and happy gardening!

-Ian

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clipped on: 10.17.2008 at 01:54 pm    last updated on: 10.17.2008 at 01:54 pm

RE: roaches in pots (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bcfromfl on 09.01.2008 at 08:12 pm in Orchids Forum

Being in Florida myself (first in Vero Beach, and now north of Panama City), I've had a lot of *BAD* experiences with roaches and my orchids, since I grow in a greenhouse too. Buy yourself some Indoor/Outdoor roach spray, and periodically load your pots up. Spray it right through the drainage holes in the bottom of the pots, and if you have large mounts or baskets, spray them too. It won't hurt the plants. Also spray around the perimeter on the floor regularly.

Not only do roaches have a penchant for delicate root tips, but I think there's a toxin in their saliva that will even kill minis. I love all of God's creatures, except fire ants, moles....and ROACHES!!!!

-Bruce

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clipped on: 09.02.2008 at 06:37 pm    last updated on: 09.02.2008 at 06:37 pm

Hurricane tips - please add yours!

posted by: rosieo on 05.18.2005 at 09:41 am in Florida Gardening Forum

I wrote these last year after Frances and Jeanne hit us dead on. Mostly they're a listing of what I did that I was glad of and what I wish I had thought of earlier.

I collected my most valuable possessions and stored them in the dryer and the dishwasher, reasoning that water can't easily get in and they're too heavy to blow away. I also put my purse in there. A front loading washer would work too, but with a top loader water would drip in.

I repacked my Christmas decorations from cardboard boxes to sturdy rubbermaid containers and wedged them into tight closets. I thought of this after reading a news report with a man who found someone else's Christmas decorations strewed all over his front yard.

I bought some large plastic containers to put my favorite clothes and things in, because the rain is your worst problem if your house is damaged.

Because we had gas shortages for about a week after the hurricane I was especially glad we'd topped off our cars beforehand. I also bought a good laminated state map just in case I evacuated.

I figured out in advance how to bolt my electric garage door down.

I put my insurance policies in a zip lock bag in my purse.

I keep all my especially precious mothers day presents in a curio cabinet so it was easy to gather them all up to put in the dishwasher.

I bought extra diapers and wipes beforehand so I didn't have to make an emergency trip after the storm when it wasn't safe to go out. I figured the wipes might come in especially handy if the water went out.

This time I didn't buy all those cans of spam and soup because I don't eat that stuff anymore, and I'd have to be practically starving to eat them. I did lay in a good supply of fruits and other fresh foods and gave a lot of thought to what canned food I actually WOULD eat.

I filled all sorts of bottles and jars with drinking water and put them in the freezer and fridge to help keep food cold when the power went out. Thankfully my water didn't go out because I realized I didn't have enough bottled water. I drink more than I thought!

What I'll do better next time -

I'll store more water!

I wish I had bought something to heat water in when my electricity went out, because I really missed my tea! Maybe one of those alcohol burners.

I'll get more cash because the banks were closed for over a week here and because of no power the stores couldn't take credit cards even when they did reopen.

I'll decide in advance under which conditions I'll evacate. Last time I tried just praying for guidance which didn't seem to work so well, probably because I had too much adrenaline to think clearly. Although, maybe it worked well because I didn't feel especially led to leave, which was good in retrospect.

My husband's job requires him to be at work during a hurricane so I was home alone with a toddler. I was listening to the radio when a tornado was spotted a half mile away. In about 30 seconds I single handedly wrestled a heavy mattress through two rooms and a narrow hallway and stuffed it into a small closet so we could hunker under it. (It took two men to get it back out though!) Next time I'll have DH do that before he leaves!

I'll vacuum the house thoroughly before the storm. Strangely that was one of the things that bothered me the most about not having electricity. I couldn't vacuum! What can I say, I'm old I guess!

Please add anything else you can think of to this list. Then we can cut and paste it all together and put it on the fridge. Because I've found that under pressure I can't think coherently and need a list!

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clipped on: 08.09.2008 at 10:17 pm    last updated on: 08.09.2008 at 10:17 pm

RE: Stepping stones again (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: gardenrose on 09.19.2004 at 11:38 am in Garden Accoutrements Forum

hi Josie_2 - I love making stained glass garden stones - have been for 5 yrs - in answer to your questions:
- for any round molds I use "serving trays" (the ones that are found with plastics glasses for the patio/deck/poolside) they are just the perfect depth & usually there are no indentations in the tray. A plastic pan will work. you can use anything for a mold as long as it's not aluminum (concrete will stick) Rubbermade has some great molds in all different shapes & sizes & don't forget "dollar" stores - a cheap place to find stuff
- the contact paper will not pull out the glass but just be careful of which brand of paper you use - DON'T use "Con-Tact" brand- they've changed their adhesive so it turns out gummy & sticks to the concrete. Try local craft stores for their products
- I use "King PSI 6000" but any concrete will work for this type of craft.
Just something I learned from making some great to not-so-great stones - if you are not happy with the end result - instead of throwing your work away (or hiding it) get a flat head screwdriver & a hammer (no - you are not going to smash the heck out of it though I was tempted a couple of times) & carefully "score" around each piece of glass until you can pop it out. This way you can try again without having to start from the beginning - but you have to do this within the first 24 hrs before the concrete starts to cure.

hope this helps
Gardenrose

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clipped on: 08.05.2008 at 03:13 pm    last updated on: 08.05.2008 at 03:13 pm

RE: Tiny bubbles on newly cast leaves (Follow-Up #31)

posted by: buckyforce on 08.04.2004 at 09:42 pm in Garden Accoutrements Forum

I have learned SO much in a very short time from reading all the posts here and at the hypertufa forum and want to not only thank everyone but share the wealth. I got into casting leaves purely by accident but am totally addicted and perfecting the techniques I have learned here. I have learned the following: First and foremost...use the finest..meaning fine as is in silky, sifted, soft, portland and sand you can find to replicate the subtle veins and nuances in leaves and by all means use some bonding agent in the water when you mix your cement/sand mix. 3 parts water/1 part bonding agent should do it. Secondly: When painting your leaves, use exterior latex paint and mix the same bonding agent into the paint, 3:1 or so. The paint bonds to the concrete like you wouldn't believe. I am in South Florida, My first leaf I used acrylic paint and the sealed it with a concrete sealer. When it got wet with rain, and I was using it as a fountain leaf, first the sealer turned white and lifted followed by the paint. Ugh!

I agree with everyone above...the important thing to do is "plunk" the bucket you have stirred your cement in a few times to force out any air and then pat, pat, pat the concrete on the leaf. You will see the air bubbles coming to the top. If you place a blob of cement about 2" from the edge of your leaf and pat it, you will see that it spreads and by patting some more you can coax it just to the edge and leave it, producing a wonderful round edge, the concrete will stop when it meets the edge of the leaf, somehow. Some bubbles are inevitable, but after you have unveiled the leaf, just make a runny, slurry in a yogurt cup and rub it with your finger or a sponge over the voids and they will fill. You'll see! Wait about 20 minutes and then rub over the leaf with a wet sponge to remove the excess....Oh MY! I have exceeded my gazillion word limit...Hope I didn't bore you!

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clipped on: 08.05.2008 at 03:09 pm    last updated on: 08.05.2008 at 03:09 pm

RE: Tiny bubbles on newly cast leaves (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: trixieloo on 06.11.2004 at 05:53 pm in Garden Accoutrements Forum

I learned how to make the leaves last july, 2003 in the seattle area. My mom's neighbor taught me with a rhubarb leaf. I painted and shipped them home to Chicago, and spent the rest of the summer making leaves. I had @ 50 leaves on my patio to paint. I seal them with cement sealer before I paint them with Patio paint. I've left me leaves out all winter (and it's really cold here) and they look good as new. I saw a bunch of elephant ears while driving and knocked at the guy's door and he ended up giving me a few and of course I made and painted one for him. At the start of fall he called me and requested another for his son and gave me the rest of the leaves before he dug them up to store for winter. I must say I'm addicted.Last night I made my first batch of the season, 5 very large rhubarb leaves and I also took 5 large hollycock leaves and made them into a bowl shape. Can't wait to unveil them. I also planted 3 elephant ear plants for myself, giant hostas and one gunnera. I may have to bring the gunnera in and let it grow larger til next summer. It's a pokey grower. So far all of my leaves have been acquired from begging at strangers' doors. Everyone has been very generous and I always give them one in return. I've make some giant hosta leaves also and some giant crazy looking weeds. I've sold many at a holiday show last December and will try to sell them in an art fair I will be in next weekend. I've been experimenting with pricing because it''s so hard to decide what to charge. I spend alot of time painting them to get a multi-dimensional look. Wish me luck, people seem pretty intriged with them. Oh yeah Canna leaves make pretty castings and I put painted balls under them as feet and place on a table. and on and on and on. Sorry I'm so long winded, but I can't say enough about it. P.S. I wear a mask when mixing my cement. Last yaer I could feel that fine dust in my lungs. After smoking for many years, (I've since quit) that's all I don't need.

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clipped on: 08.05.2008 at 03:06 pm    last updated on: 08.05.2008 at 03:06 pm

RE: Tiny bubbles on newly cast leaves (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: auctionclerk on 08.08.2003 at 09:21 am in Garden Accoutrements Forum

Thanks to you all for keeping this discussion alive. I was using fresh leaves but my feeling is that the bubbles may have been caused more by the cement rather than by the leaf. I have cast more of the same kind of leaves (I have been told the smooth leaves are Cottonwood and the fuzzy ones are Sycamore) since my first post and have had the same bubbles. I am going to try, as Dena suggested, to let the mixture rest for a short time before applying to the leaves next time.

I couldn't wait a month as suggested in other posts before painting my leaves. I thought "They are my leaves and I can ruin them if I want" and plowed right in. The result was much better than I expected. Since it had been mentioned that the cement absorbes a lot of the paint I wetted the leaf and let it dry slightly (until not shiny with water but still looked damp) before painting. I was able to have the gratification of a finished leaf and it did not seem to take an inordinate amount of paint. I don't have any idea how this will stand the test of time but I just had to *finish* at least one leaf for my own satisfaction.

I will add my two cents worth about leaf freezing. I have tried it as well but have only used each leaf once. This really works. We can all become like squirrels (those little stinkers that keep digging up my yard!) and store away our winter's supply of fun while the leaves are in prime condition. I don't know where some of you will find freezers large enough for gunnera leaves but for my leaves this will work great.

If you are reading this thread and thinking about trying leaf casting, don't hesitate. It is really a kick.

Thanks again to all who have replied and *have fun playing in the mud*!!!

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clipped on: 08.05.2008 at 03:03 pm    last updated on: 08.05.2008 at 03:03 pm

RE: Tiny bubbles on newly cast leaves (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: Dena6355 on 07.31.2003 at 09:10 am in Garden Accoutrements Forum

Every leaf seems to have its very own characteristics. Some create the little pockets because of the sugars that are released. Some the concrete just has a difficult time flowing around (like the fuzzy leaf you describe.
I used to use Pam and now do not. Some leaves just come off better than others.
I have found that the bubbles can be greatly decreased if everything in concreteville is just right (it is really the luck of the draw for me), temperature, mixing, slack or gel time etc. Once your mix is done let it sit for several minutes then mix again. Pat the mix on to your leaf with some gentle but firm pats. Once the mix is over all the leaf, come back and firmly pat the mix again with your finger tips at the edges of the leaf or your palm at the top.
Painting or staining definitely changes the look and the pock or bubble marks hold the color a little more densly adding to the overall character. Dena

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clipped on: 08.05.2008 at 03:00 pm    last updated on: 08.05.2008 at 03:00 pm

RE: Dendrobium aggregatum question (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: gardnergal on 01.10.2008 at 04:35 pm in Orchids Forum

Sue, Here is what I have. Sorry for the length--it's from a few different references. NOTE THE COMMENTS RE: SPIDER MITES. This may be your plant's problem.

Dendrobium Lindleyi I,H from Vietnam. Aka Dend. aggregatum. Miniature, usually best as a mount. Needs a dry winter rest. Bright light. Plants skirt themselves with pendant clusters of bright yellow flowers in mid-spring. The flowers usually take up more space than the plant when in full bloom. Likes lots of food water after blooming until fall, then neglect them - cool temps, little water, no fertilizer. Keep the light bright year round.
Dendrobium aggregatum is one of the Callista species and is native to Burma, northern India and southern China. Other species in the Callista family include: Den. chrysotoxum, Den. densiflorum, Den. farmeri. These are classified as dwarf dendrobiums. They do not grow into tall canes but have short spindle-shaped pseudobulbs bearing thick, leathery leaves. These orchids like to be mounted on bark or cork. Dendrobium aggregatums are 'evergreen', which means they do not drop their leaves as some of the tall cane dendrobium orchids.
Care Tips: Dendrobium aggregatum definitely require a change in the cultural requirements at various times of the year and become dormant in the fall through winter months. They should be suspended and mounted on bark or cork for optimal growth. Grow them with your cattleyas (intermediate to warm conditions) but they require somewhat cooler temperatures during the winter months. In the winter move them to a cooler location and provide them with cooler night temperatures and dry conditions. Good air circulation is necessary.
Light: Dendrobium aggregatum takes high light, so keep them with cattleyas.
Watering: Watering is a crucial element for this orchid. (and may be the most difficult regimen to follow!) During spring and summer, water well when growth is developing. Be generous with your watering and fertilizing. As Autumn approaches, it is important to cut back on your watering and fertilizing schedule. Dendrobium aggregatums require dry conditions in the winter. During the fall and winter, water your plant only enough to keep the pseudobulbs from shriveling and dying. Be aware that the pseudobulbs will become wrinkly during this dormant period. You will need to learn the distinction between what is considered wrinkly and when the orchid will need some water to keep it from dying. Don't fertilize at this time. This severe drying and rest period is difficult to do especially if you are heavy handed with the water or if you are more accustomed to watering. But stick with it!
As Spring arrives and flower buds begin to emerge, increase your watering schedule. Water well while flowering and with the signs of new growth. As late Spring and Summer progress, increase watering and water thoroughly. If the tips of the leaves begin to brown, reassess how much fertilizer you are providing. Perhaps the concentration is too high and the leaves are experiencing some fertilizer burn. Or try changing your watering schedule. Determine how your orchids respond to any regimen you have established and be flexible to change if needed.
Flowers: Flowers usually appear Spring to Summer and is dependent upon adequate light. The Dendrobium aggregatum orchids form hanging clusters (like grapes) of yellow-orange flowers. The flowers are truly delightful. Flowers are approximately 1 inch in diameter, are flat with round lips. Flowers are delicate and cascade gracefully. Flowers last approximately 1-2 weeks.
Miscellaneous: Watch for spider mites. They love to live among the pseudobulbs. Spider mites are difficult to rid and will suck the life and energy out of the plant. If your plant takes a downward turn, begins to yellow, check carefully for any infestation.
Dendrobium aggregatum does necessitate a considerable change in their care in order to produce flowers. They need a solid rest period. Dendrobium aggregatum is a difficult orchid for a novice grower. It is truly difficult not to water! It took me two years to finally get it right! If it is not flowering for you, try something a little different: cooler temperatures, more light, less water. It does take time to master this species. Simply put, remember these tips: Spring to Fall give adequate amounts of water, fertilizer and light. Fall to winter give cooler temperatures (especially at night), water SPARINGLY to prevent them from drying out, keep on dry side.
Overwatering this orchid will only induce growth and will prevent it from flowering. This dormancy period is crucial. Sometimes the best advice one can give is just forget about your plant during these months of dormancy. You may think the plant has died and may be tempted to discard it. Be patient and diligent with their extreme care requirements and you will be rewarded with gorgeous inflorescences.

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clipped on: 01.13.2008 at 08:56 pm    last updated on: 01.13.2008 at 08:56 pm

RE: So sick of being sick! (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: mcpeg on 01.11.2008 at 09:14 am in Kitchen Table Forum

If you have a really heavy congested chest, you can make a mustard plaster to move everything out - I grew up with this before the time of OTC meds everywhere...

Take a hot mustard powder like keens or a dijon mustard, only about a tbsp, mix 2 tbsp of flour with water to make a paste, add the mustard, butter onto a wet cloth and stick it on your chest. Watch your skin carefully, it should not stay on longer than 10 minutes, or remove sooner if you skin is turning red. You will break out in a sweat, cough a lot (it breaks up chest cold gunk). DO NOT go outdoors. Do change any sweaty clothing as needed and stay under blankets or very warm. This actually does shock the body but if your at wits end with a congested chest, this works wonders and is an very old remedy. I had a neighbour do this for her extremely ill asthmatic daughter who she just brought back from emergency. After a bought of coughing she was able to breathe again and get to sleep while her medications from the hospital kicked in. She was coughing so bad I could hear her 2 floors down in my apartment.

(((((((((((((((((((gwanny2three and DH))))))))))))))))))))))

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clipped on: 01.11.2008 at 03:01 pm    last updated on: 01.11.2008 at 03:01 pm