Clippings by vasue

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RE: Ma Perkins Rose (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: roseseek on 11.12.2012 at 11:55 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Hi Judith, it roots and grows own root as easily as any other mid fifties floribunda. If you don't mind the color difference, I used to grow White Ma Perkins, the white sport, own root from Vintage. If they have that one available, it's about as vigorous, just white and a beautiful rose. There are many methods of rooting cuttings. It's almost time to wrap cuttings to root over winter. I'm waiting until the end of next month to permit them to store as many nutrients as possible before putting them through the stress of supporting themselves without roots. You may also have success with some of the other methods posted here and in the Propagation Forum. Good luck! Kim

Here is a link that might be useful: Wrapping Cuttings

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clipped on: 09.30.2014 at 04:52 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2014 at 04:53 pm

RE: Rose ID? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: vasue on 09.30.2014 at 04:08 pm in Roses Forum

Austin's used Aloha in his breeding. Barbara Lea Taylor notes it was to "increase vigor and a free-flowering habit" in the link below, but I suspect he was also after the old-fashioned, sometimes quartered form of its flowers & that great perfume. (Still carries Aloha on his websites.) As much as I admire Austin's roses, including several that are happy here, must say I adore Aloha. Abraham Darby resulted from Aloha x Yellow Cushion & the family resemblance is striking - too bad Abe didn't inherit Aloha's sturdy constitution! Princess Alexandra of Kent is only listed as seedling x seedling, but may indeed have Aloha in her background...

Although Aloha is on the tall & wide side, I don't think of her as a huge rose. Really quite graceful & well-behaved here, gently arching high & flowering from laterals in clusters as she matures. Not even tip die-back down to 7 below one year nor after last year's extended bitter cold. Merely snap the spent blooms & have never pruned her. Last year a butterfly bush in a large pot was parked near her to overwinter. An ice storm followed by heavy snow which froze in turn weighed down the buddleia's branches till they draped over half of Aloha's, taking them near horizontal. Worried she would break, decided to leave them both be for fear or doing more damage trying to undo the situation. As the snow & underlying ice melted away, the canes of both returned to their previous posture without damage. Impressive flexibility in my book.

Alohas's in a mixed perennial bed across from her apricot sport Dixieland Linda/Lady Ashe, and doesn't seem to mind the flowers at her feet. You're most welcome, Pat. Hope you come to love her as much as I do!

Here is a link that might be useful: Old-fashioned & David Austin Roses

This post was edited by vasue on Tue, Sep 30, 14 at 16:18

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clipped on: 09.30.2014 at 04:18 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2014 at 04:19 pm

You really want 'Mother of Pearl'

posted by: michaelg on 06.24.2010 at 06:25 pm in Roses Forum

It's a little early to be enabling for next season, but not to late to start a potted rose right now.

I am just crazy about MoP. It has a very beautiful HT-style flower in peachy apricot-pink with a satiny texture and a nice fragrance to my nose, though apparently some people can't smell it. These flowers come on long single stems or in clusters, and they last longer than any other rose I grow, whether cut or left on the bush.

The plant is vigorous, bushy, and free-blooming. Its foliage is abundant and resistant to disease so far. Celeste grows it in zone 4-5 New Hampshire. In my mild climate it is tip-hardy in winter and happy all growing season, but I haven't heard how it does in heat or amidst the West Coast diseases.

For me, it's about as good as a modern bush rose can get. Do yourself a favor.

Here is a link that might be useful: MoP @ HMF

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clipped on: 09.30.2014 at 07:54 am    last updated on: 09.30.2014 at 07:54 am

Ridiculously Healthy Roses here in zone 4

posted by: celestialrose on 11.27.2008 at 08:44 pm in Roses Forum

I grow well over 350 roses by now and as I add more each year I notice that I am not consistent in keeping up with
my spraying regimen. For most of my short summers here I have little problem with diseases until around August when blackspot becomes an issue. Now that all my roses have gone beddy-bye for the winter I am looking back over the past summers and recalling those roses which stayed 100% clean for me and rarely, if ever, were sprayed. In addition to their blackspot and mildew resistence, they were all vigorous growers and bloomers.

Here, in pictures, are those heroes of my garden. It takes
a great rose to not only stay healthy here, but to also
brave our zone 4 mountain-region winters and rally every
spring. Instead of closeups of individual blooms, I tried to capture whole bushes to show their qualities. These
were all taken in late August to mid-Sept. when most roses
here are looking pitiful.

Celeste

HEAVEN ON EARTH....surprisingly winter-hardy, I don't bother to give her any special attention and she barely
has tip damage come spring. She pumps out dozens & dozens of IMMENSE apricot blooms and her foliage stays glossy and green all summer. A light tea fragrance. One of my favorites and always an attention-getter.

heaven on earth

PRAIRIE JOY....this rose is under-rated, in my opinion. I don't understand why more people don't grow this rose....maybe they need some enabling? This rose needs no
winter protection and comes back fully each spring. It pumps out loads of pretty pink blooms and never has a speck of disease. And she is full and bushy without pruning.

prairie joy

MORDEN SUNRISE....Where do I start? I love this charmer!
The sunny blooms, the glossy & healthy foliage, its winter-hardiness, and even fat rosehips in the fall.

morden sunrise


QUIETNESS....if only she had fragrance, she would be a perfect rose. Winter-hardy, vigorous, everblooming, disease-free, and perfection of form and color. (sigh)
She is beloved by me. Here she is, after a rainstorm, a little bedraggled but still glorious.

Photobucket

ROSARIUM UETERSEN....this climber has consistently stayed
disease-free for years. The leaves are so thick and glossy they remind me of holly. It does have minor winter
damage but then again, I don't protect it. No fragrance, just huge clusters of long-lasting colorful blooms that light up my rosegarden. I am amazed by the lasting powers of the blooms. This cluster was 2 weeks old!

rosarium uetersen

RHODE ISLAND RED...one of the Brownell climbers. Huge, red
blooms adorn a climber with large healthy leaves. Gorgeous
and disease-free for me.

rhode island red

OCTAVIA HILL....why, oh why, is this rose so overlooked?
I very seldom hear of it. But she is amazing. She sends out dozens upon dozens of pale pink, Austin-like blooms in clusters, set among her super-shiny and healthy leaves.
Very robust and disease-free all summer.

octavia hill

THE GENEROUS GARDENER....This Austin doesn't seem to be very popular, maybe because the waterlily-like blooms shatter quickly, or maybe because this rose wants to be a small climber. And that's exactly how I grow it. On an obelisk, she grows to about 6 feet and the leaves are so shiny people have accused me of spraying something on them.
Surprisingly good winter-hardiness unprotected. Not a speck of disease, ever.

the generous gardner

THERESE BUGNET....the queen of my June garden. There is nothing but perfection from this rose. She is one of the hardiest roses on the planet and needs zero protection or coddling. She grows tall, with lovely leaves and scented flowers of pink perfection. Her canes are reddish for winter interest and she even sets hips. An elegant, no-fuss rose that everyone can, and should, grow.

therese bugnet

PRETTY JESSICA....OK, I have enabled many here into getting this beauty, but in case you missed it, you will want this rose! She is drop-dead gorgeous, her fragrance is strong and sweet, her form is compact & bushy, she is
healthy, she braves our winters with minimal dieback, she makes wonderful flower arrangements....she is perfect.

pretty jessica

MYSTERY CLIMBER....the tag said "Pink Queen", a Brownell climber, but I have researched and never found any rose by that name. Brownell did have several pink climbers, some only bearing number identifications. So I don't know the real identity of this lovely climber. What I DO know is that it is amazing. The leaves are so wonderfully healthy and shiny I use both the leaves and the blooms in arrangements. This rose has a very unique fragrance, so demure and sweet, like a fine perfume. Maybe someone can
identify it? Whatever it is, it is a keeper.

Photobucket

MOTHER OF PEARL....OK, the photo is blurry, but you get the idea. Loads and Loads of blooms, no disease. This and Pope John Paul II are my healthiest hybrid teas.

Photobucket

ANOTHER GREAT, HARDY AND HEALTHY ROSE THAT I DIDN'T PHOTOGRAPH, IS CHAMPLAIN. That is one blooming-fool of a rose! Cluster after cluster of bright red blooms, winter-hardiness, and good health. I am ordering another one for spring.

Celeste

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clipped on: 09.30.2014 at 07:45 am    last updated on: 09.30.2014 at 07:45 am

RE: Rose ID? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: vasue on 09.29.2014 at 06:20 pm in Roses Forum

Pat, your rose looks & sounds like Boerner's 1949 Aloha to me. An ownroot gallon came here 6 years ago & was the spitting image of yours at that age. It showed a touch of blackspot its first year, but not since, and I don't treat or spray. Now it's a graceful bush easily 7+ feet wide & tall. Its willingness to bloom often & generously, along with its health, is impressive - a happy rose here. And those blooms! All I'd hoped for from the descriptions in the midcentury rose books that convinced me I wanted her years ago, a delight in every way.

Here is a link that might be useful: Aloha photos at HMF

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clipped on: 09.29.2014 at 06:22 pm    last updated on: 09.29.2014 at 06:22 pm

RE: Winter care for passion flower? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: vasue on 09.28.2014 at 02:16 pm in Passiflora Forum

Since no one else has replied, I'll jump in. All depends on which cultivar you have. Which passionflower do you grow? There are many named varieties & cold hardiness varies with each one, so start with knowing which one you grow & its reaction to cold temps. Would think in your zone most would be root hardy if not cane hardy, so mulching the root zone would be sufficient unless your vine is only rated for zones 9-10.

Is this a young first year plant in your garden? If so, the root mass may not allow the canes to survive its first Winter. I would not prune back the vine. My Blue Bouquet died back to the ground its first two Winters, but resprouted from the roots to grow strongly & quickly each Spring. When it gained enough root mass with more maturity, it was able to overwinter its topgrowth, even keeping most of its leaves. The main stems got thicker, turned brown & woody & weren't phased by cold down to zero here. Autumn thin stems usually were too new to survive, but a few always managed to. Those that didn't were clipped out in early Spring, back to live wood. Dead leaves were left as insulation till then as well.

Here in central Virginia, we usually have mild spells periodically during Winter. Found it's important then to water the roots during these spells if no rainfall obliges. Also make sure to water them well before cold spells are predicted in the Fall, so the ground is moist before temps go down.

Four Blue Bouquets were planted here in '99 to grow up front porch pillars & span the arches between. The base of the porch is stone, which likely keeps them warmer than they would be further out into the garden. The porch faces ESE & the passionflowers are protected by the house from cold & drying prevailing Winter winds from the North & West in that location.

Is your trellis & passionflower located in a Winter-protected spot? Depending on your variety, where you have it sited & what size it's attained so far, different protection measures could be used in its early years. Let us know the passionflower you grow & it's garden position, and we'll brainstorm how best to protect it.

This post was edited by vasue on Sun, Sep 28, 14 at 14:18

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clipped on: 09.28.2014 at 02:20 pm    last updated on: 09.28.2014 at 02:20 pm

Lavender "Phenomenal"

posted by: rouge21 on 01.16.2013 at 07:31 pm in Perennials Forum

I have seen some good reports of this new to NAmerica Lavender. (In Europe it is known as "Pure Platinum").

It even has its own Facebook page!

It appears it was available summer 2012 but I don't recall seeing any discussion of it on GW.

It seems that part of its appeal is its 'extra' hardiness.

Here is a link that might be useful: PHENOMENAL

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clipped on: 09.27.2014 at 02:56 pm    last updated on: 09.27.2014 at 02:56 pm

RE: My most fragrant rose (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: vasue on 09.27.2014 at 11:04 am in Roses Forum

Of those currently grown here, another vote for Fragrant Cloud. Leaning in to inhale its fragrance, can literally taste as well as smell its delightful perfume from several inches away, so strong it is in this humid garden. Crimson Glory is my all time favorite for fragrance, but I've yet to persuade it to endure in several gardens...

The scent of two Belinda's Dream (new this year) reminds me of their pollen parent Tiffany. Not as strong as Tiffany, but very satisfying with the same notes.

Many of those mentioned here received the Edland or the Gamble Medals (sometimes both) for outstanding fragrance.

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clipped on: 09.27.2014 at 11:05 am    last updated on: 09.27.2014 at 11:05 am

RE: A few photos of wet roses (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: the_dark_lady on 08.21.2012 at 09:12 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

Thank you, Diane.
I have three Zaide bushes in my garden. All three are growing wonderfully. They make quite large bush, nice and thick, they are V-shaped with slightly arching strong branches.
This rose is a great bloomer and the flowers are always large and very full regardless of the weather.
It also sets really pretty hips - large and olive shaped.

Here are couple more pictures of Zaide

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clipped on: 09.25.2014 at 01:37 pm    last updated on: 09.25.2014 at 01:37 pm

RE: Mold in drywall? and something wierd (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: energy_rater_la on 09.15.2014 at 05:03 pm in Home Repair Forum

you should really start a new thread as you'll get
more input Donna.

first understand that for mold to grow it needs
two things, moisture & a food source.
eliminate the moisture source, once
you find out what it is. I'd start at the roof.

open the ceiling, remediate..maybe as simple
as letting things dry out once moisture is stopped,
maybe materials need to be replaced.
you won't know until you can see it.

it takes time for mold to grow, it doesn't happen
overnight, so maybe hoa will have to cover it if it
predates your repair of roof. inside the home it
can take 5 years...but in a garage? don't know.

you'll want someone experienced
in mold remediation to handle materials properly & safely
as they are removed. and be able to prove it if necessary
to hoa. that may be expensive.

I do a some of mold remediation, respirators, sealing off
room, double bagging materials etc.
reason for doing the work is that too many people treat
mold like a gold mine & scare homeowners with toxic mold
stories. realistically, only 2 types are toxic, and every
house has mold...somewhere.
so try to steer clear of those folks.

so, if you were to diy, fix leak, open ceiling.
once you open a spot up...you can look to see
how far the damage extends. cut out sheetrock
to that point & look again, cut so that you can easily replace it with new sheet/piece.
remove insulation, if any & look at 2x's to see if mold
has grown on them.
I use tsp (tri sodium phosphate or something like that)
& scrub with a brush. let dry, rinse, scrub again.
let it all dry for a few days. put a fan on it.
check moisture level of wood & at 30% you can
close it up again. tape & float sheetrock.
sometimes I'll kiltz or bullseye/zinner the framing
members when the area is opened.

hope your hoa will do what is right here for you.

best of luck

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clipped on: 09.17.2014 at 10:15 am    last updated on: 09.17.2014 at 10:16 am

RE: Nail pops... lots of 'em in a short time frame (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: manhattan42 on 09.15.2014 at 07:47 pm in Home Repair Forum

"Popping" nails or screws is usually caused by changes in moisture levels, and those moisture level changes occur within the wood framing members themselves.

When that occurs, it is likely due to normal 'drying' of the lumber or in an existing house, due to changes in the (air) 'conditioning' of the home from summer to winter.

But that said, you may be surprised to discover that the nail pops are not really caused by the house 'settling' or changes in moisture content in the lumber.

There is a growing recognition amongst builders and code inspectors that the culprit is the drywall itself.

The drywall?

Yes, the drywall.

Why?

Most builders now use 'lightweight' drywall.

The trend began about 4 years ago.

Not only is 'lightweight' drywall actually lighter in weight, and therefore easier to physically handle and install...it also costs much less than standard drywall board.

The problem is, (and a problem that drywall manufacturers refuse to admit), is that unlike standard weight drywall, lightweight drywall itself actually 'shrinks' and 'expands' with changes in humidity.

Rather than producing traditional nail 'pops'... which are typically concave indentations in standard drywall caused by drying of studs...and which pulls the fasteners "in"...

"Pops" caused by lightweight drywall 'shrinkage' are evidenced by fasteners protruding "OUT" from the lightweight drywall surface...as the drywall itself changes thickness with less humidity.

How is this possible?

Drywall manufacturers won't admit that the lightweight 'fillers' they use which adds rigidity to the board and which decreases its weight, are also hydrophilic, that is, they absorb moisture and expand when they do.
-----------------------

I was recently made aware of the problem by a townhouse developer and builder whose homes I regularly inspect as the Building Official.

He took me through his 20 or so townhomes he built over the last 5 years and showed me where he stopped using standard drywall and began using 'lightweight' drywall.

The conditions of installation were the same.

It became IMMEDIATELY apparent that there was something amiss when he switched to 'lightweight' drywall:

No 'pops' before...
'Pops' all over ever since....

He has since gone back to using standard weight drywall and his problems have disappeared....

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clipped on: 09.17.2014 at 09:03 am    last updated on: 09.17.2014 at 09:03 am

Vanilla Strawberry Hydrangeas Leaves

posted by: AddictedToFlowers on 05.29.2014 at 04:51 pm in Hydrangea Forum

This spring we planted five of these and they seem to be doing good so far. Last night I noticed some spots on one of the bushes leaves. Is this anything I need to be worried about?
TIA

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clipped on: 09.17.2014 at 08:48 am    last updated on: 09.17.2014 at 08:48 am

RE: Did anyone save Pappu's 'Big Stinking Mess' thread? (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: msjam2 on 04.18.2009 at 05:58 pm in Roses Forum

Guess what I found in my hard drive! I was saving all my photos in my new cool gadget passport hd and found this!

Enjoy!!

A big stinking mess! Help!
Posted by pappu z5 IL (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 2:49
Just disastrous results with my attempts at brewing alfalfa tea...after all the posts about the tea, I had to make it. Someone posted a link which gave instructions on how you could jazz up the tea...anyways, I think I added too much alfalfa cubes which expanded in the water to form a solid mush. I added brown sugar, soy sauce, ripe fruits, one cat fish fillet (I swear, the post said it would add extra minerals) a banana peel and stirred the mix and now it smells absolutely horrendous! It is frothing and has a sickening stench and I am even afraid to go near it. And all this is in one of those huge garbage bins with wheels. I am just afraid to use it on my roses....what if they just wilt and die from this vile stuff...and how do I get rid of it? It gets stinkier every day. Any ideas?
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: melva 7b/8aTX (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 4:02
I would be afraid of that s*** too! Where on earth did you get that recipe? I am pretty sure it won't hurt your roses...but...go ahead and give it to your plants...sounds like you need to add more water to it, if it is semi solid. An alternative thing to do with it, is dig a big hole, pour it in the hole cover it, and RUN! real fast! Just Alfalfa and water together smells bad enough, once it has fermented, but this stuff! You have my sympathy...I had to deal with some old tea, a couple of years ago, and it smelled BAD! It was probably nothing, compared to what you have. In the future...just use Alfalfa and water, skip all the other stuff.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Brother_Cadfael z5 seWI (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 5:30
I wouldn't disagree w/ melva about it not hurting your roses, but what about the effect it may have on you? That rotting fish you have in there is not the same as adding fish emulsion after the tea is fermented, it's a rotting corpse now! That stuff makes typhus and cholera look like cotton candy! I just had my first experience w/ fish emulsion last week, now I don't have a weak stomach, but everytime I went near that rosebed for the next 4 days, I would literally GAG ! My question would be: Do you want this crap to smell up your yard/house for 3-5 days? Would you even be able to work around that smell? The "catfish fillet" alone would have sent me to ANYWHERE up-wind from there. Did he/she give you and MSDS with that recipe? It sounds like a damn BIO-HAZARD! If they were brewing that stuff on prison farms, they'd be cited for cruel and unusual punishment! It doesn't sound like a healthy mixture to be around:^( I can't imagine what the crap you brewed up smells like! What sick son of a b*t*h gave you that recipe? He/she can't have any freakin' sense of smell, or any sense at all. If they would have strategically dropped 4 barrels of this S*** on Iraq, Hanoi, Afganistan, or any other wartorn part of the world at any time in history, I bet you after only 12 hours there would be white flags as far as the eye could see! If I were you I would get rid of the crap!... I have a drain valve built into my 32gal tea-can, so it would be easy for me to get rid of it. But if you have to "dip" into it everytime, GOD HELP YOU!!! The best place for that stuff is a sanitary sewer! You can see I'm not at a loss for words, but I don't know what to tell you to do w/ the crap!!! Can you build four walls around it and let an advanced, future, civilization deal with it? You spill that stuff and it's gonna be Chernobyl all over again. Is it solid alfalfa all the way through? I was thinking maybe you could siphon it out, but that crap is probably so thick you'd need a hose the diameter of a basketball to get anything through it. You may want to call your local fire dept. and ask about the cost of a HAZ-MAT disposal... Or a waste disposal company... It may not sound like it, but I am taking this very seriously! I don't know what else to say, I'll be here for moral support, should you need it. GODSPEED!!! BC:)
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: GaelicGardener z6 RI (madbh@aol.com) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 7:52
Just duct tape the cover onto the barrel and leave a note on it for the garbagemen that says "Take it barrel and all!"
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: SueTO z6a TO (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 8:12
I had a feeling when I saw the post title that you'd fallen INTO a vat of alfalfa tea. This appears much worse. The brown sugar and fruit have probably started an alcoholic fermentation process to boot. (soy sauce??? what the heck? it has salt in it!) The fish corpse makes me antsy too, but, if you put on bio-hazard attire (or a close simile thereof) and scooped a bucket of two of the stuff in to another garbage can, then added water to dilute it and then spread it around - would that work? do you have enough real estate to spread the stuff around when it's diluted? Or, take GaelicGardener's suggestion - probably easiest and safest. Sue
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pete41 9ab FL. (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 8:17
Haven'tyou ever heard of honey wagons?Go for it,wearing long rubber gloves.Next time soak some alfalfa in a five gallon bucket for an hour or so,add your epsom salt,fertilizer etc. and put it around.Call it instant tea or whatever you want its as good as the old witches brew.Careful how you read the last sentence.I have to admit though,i picture a lot of ``cackling and stirring "when I see posts about making ``tea".
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: altoraMA 5/6 MA (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 9:16
I think the you were probably only supposed to add the banana peel-the rest of the stuff is probably a recipie for how to prepare catfish. >??? I'd really like to see this post! A few years ago there was a terrible smell in our neighborhood-so bad the fire dept was called. They all thought there was a body somewhere, but after searching around, found it was a pile of compost. It was very hot and the smell was terrible. I don't know what they did with it but the smell was gone a few days later. alida
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Brother_Cadfael z5 seWI (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 10:02
:) Yeah Pete, I've heard of honeywagons, (if you mean the old outhouse pit crew), but when they had a"full load", they didn't go knocking door to door to see if you wanted it dumped on your flowerbeds.;)
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pete41 9ab FL. (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 10:07
A couple of years ago I bought some generic milorganite at a very rural feed store.Four bucks a bag.WOW,,no, PHEW.NO doubt that was right off the wagon.LOL-poor neighbors never did know where the stench came from.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: smom40 5MO (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 10:09
I'd post this on the compost forum and see what they have to say about it. (It might be just fine to use, just intensely nasty.)
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Roseman Z 8A GA (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 11:42
Here is the recipe that Howard Walters recommended, and it is the ultimate and the best: "Add 10 to 12 cups of alfalfa meal or pellets to a 32 gallon plastic garbage can (with lid), add water, stir, steep for four or five days, stirring occasionally. You can also fortify with 2 cups of Epsom salts, 1/2 cup of Sequestrene (chelated iron now sold as Sprint 330) or your favorite trace element elixir. The tea will start to smell in about three days. Keep the lid ON. Use about a gallon of mix on the large bushes, and 1/3 of that on the minis. And keep the water going. One load of meal or pellets will brew up to two barrelfuls, but add more fortifiers. You will see greener growth and stronger stems within a week." REMEMBER, KEEP THE LID ON. Howard recommended using this in the fall only, but spring and fall are better rather then throughout the season. You will notice there is no mention of making this into garbage international. Just use what is in the recipe. AND ABOVE ALL - KEEP THE LID ON!!!!
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: harryshoe z6easternPA (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 11:51
If you think the fruit has fermented, I would drink it. Don't worry about the fish. Heck, Bass is my favorite beer.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: txkat Z7BNC (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 11:56
Whoa, that sounds incredibly nasty. When I make intensive care alfalfa tea, I add composting bananas and potato peels in a slurry ( whir them around in the food processor and add water til it's like a milkshake) and Milorganite ( pooh) and I've never had a rose fail to bounce back with it, but HOLY GOD man, what have you done????? I'd hate to waste it. It'll only smell for a couple of days. Put on your mask for spraying, and mix about 16 oz of whatever that stuff is in a gallon of water per rose. That's what I'd do....but I'm a little unhinged at times.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Mike_Rivers z5 MI (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 12:15
Sounds normal to me. At least cat fish turned out to be catfish and not cat, fish - although, come to think of it....
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: msjean Z6..NS...Canada (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 12:20
Some people use fish in their compost teas, but they let them sit in soil in a airtight container until the fish decomposes and becomes part of the soil.. I don't understand the soy sauce, and usually molasses is used ..not brown sugar... but the rest of the ingredients could work ok. If it were me, I'd use it...dilute it well and water it well. I bet your roses would love it and the smell would soon be gone in a short time. You wouldn't mind it too bad after a few minutes because the smell would soon "clog your smeller" and it wouldn't seem too bad. Just before a big rain ...under the cover of darkness would be a good time to spread it..so the neighbours don't know where the smell came from...just in case there is a bad smell. :) I say go for it. :) Good luck.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Berndoodle z9 SF Bay Area (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 13:25
Is that recipe for real or a joke? Where's the arugula? I assume the amount of soy sauce was miniscule. Salt is lousy for plants. Twere me, I'd put that stuff on the roses just to get rid of it. For the application of alfalfa/manure tea, wear rubber boots and rubber gloves and throw away clothes. Whatever you do, don't get it on your sneakers or you will have to throw them out. It stinks, and as far as I'm concerned, it's back-breaking and unpleasant. If you want my recipe, this is it: Fill 32 gallon garbage can with water in a location near your roses. Add about 1-2 buckets of alfalfa pellet or cubes, 1-2 cups of fish emulsion (don't have the label on me right now, but make it very dilute), 1 cup of seaweed type fertilizer, a big bucket of compost and a bit of Growmore Organic Chelated Iron (make it very dilulte). Stir with a garden stake. Leave it out in the garden until you notice the smell when you walk by, about 3 days. Stir with a garden stake before and during application. Apply with a bucket by splashing over the top of the rose. Take a shower and don't return to the garden for a couple of days. If you have more roses than one garbage can will feed, I betcha you don't do it twice.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Oshenar Vancouver (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 13:28
I don't think it would kill the roses to use it. The smell should be gone in a few days. Except for the soy sauce (which is mainly salt), everything else in there seems to be organic/natural-source type of thing so it is probably less likely to burn the plants or anything. You can dilute the mixture and use it a bit at a time if you are feeling "unsafe" about it (this would probably reduce the smell in the garden too). From what you described, the thick soup you made will probably be able to last you a little while (just treat it like a concentrated organic fertilizer of sorts).
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: rosetom 7 Atl (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 13:36
Forget this stuff and buy some MMM. You'll be much happier. It works better than any tea concoction, and you won't have a mess. Or, if you insist on do-it-yourself, you can buy the MMM ingredients in bulk and mix it yourself. Most any rose society in your area can get deep discounts on MMM.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Patricia43 z8 AL (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 14:01
I think some legs were pulled to the fullest.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pappu z5 IL (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 14:06
Sheesh, what a mess! Temps are high 80's today and the 'thing' is a frothy iridiscent green with a brown film on it (the brown sugar?)It seems to be expanding and has pushed the hinged cover up today morning. The stench seems to have a putrid 'sweet' undertone to it today. Thank you all for your very entertaining(it really is not funny) suggestions but no, I cant wait until next thursday for the garbage guy to pick it up, cannot dig a hole to bury it, and, drink it? Shame on you Harryshoe :-) Well, I will approach 'it' today and try to mix it and maybe take some of it out in 5 gallon used paint pails and dilute with water and whatever...before the neighbors call the police. I feel bad for them, very nice people but this is like... DW cannot believe the stupidity I am capable of, thanks to u all....please stop posting the recipes for alfalfa teas and exploding basal breaks and lush grren roses and a billion buds. No more gushing posts about tea(vile, toxic radioactive sludge is what I call it) and just tell 'em to spread the alfalfa pellets/cubes around the bushes, thank you
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: MichaelG z6B NC Mts (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 15:41
Bottle some of it and use it to season your favorite Thai recipe. Dilute the rest of it 3:1 and put it on the garden. Next time, just put a cup of alfalfa pellets under the mulch.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pappu z5 IL (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 16:03
I am trying to post the link, but cannot find it! Level 3( I think there were 5 levels) tea jazz-up was buy an aquarium airpump and bubble air through the tea! Sheepish admission: Almost bought an air-pump at Walmart, just did not have the time for it. Can u imagine what bubbling air would have done to the 'tea'? LOL
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: AndreaGeorgia z7 NC (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 16:29
Next time, keep out the other junk (who in all the world told you to add that rotten stuff anyway - that's a recipe for disaster), and instead use trace elements (e.g. epsom salts and iron) which you can buy cheaply. Adding trace elements actually keeps the smell down a bit, as I found out (in conrast to your recipe). Stirring once a day also helps. Shouldn't be such a big deal. Just throwing alfalfa pellets on the soil doesn't do too much at all in my experience, they just get moldy and keep sitting there if rodents don't get them, but ymmv. http://www.ars.org/About_Roses/fertilizing_alfalfa.htm (there are no dead fish and rotten banana peels in this recipe ;-). Andrea
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: rosetom 7 Atl (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 16:54
Perhaps fermentation was too strong a term, but descriptive for a process that results in the release of alcohol, nonetheless. I think I agree with Patricia that there's a lot of leg-pulling going on. I just wish the huge messes I've made with the stuff was a joke, too. None of it is very funny when you find yourself with 60 gallons of it.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pappu z5 IL (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 17:08
I found the link...this is even more interesting....apple cider, mackerel, rotten fruit, sardines...read on! http://faq.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/organic/2002082739009975.html
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: smom40 5MO (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 17:31
Thank you for posting this..I knew that I read something on this site about it. I've seen this FAQ in the past. Glad that I was busy/lazy and hadn't tried it.
crossing fingers!
� Posted by: smom40 5MO (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 17:31
Btw, I hope that after all of this crap, you get a result from it.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: lilaclily z5IL (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 17:40
I have to speak up since I was the one that posted the link. Yes people, this stuff works. Although I have never thrown an entire fish into mine, I did throw in a can of tuna fish once. It stinks to high heaven, it is supposed to. It looks disgusting, it is supposed to. The recipe is not a joke, although you do have the option of adding as much of the "recommended" ingredients to it as you feel comfortable with. Pappu sounds like he jumped in enthusiastically, nothing wrong with that. Some just prefer the nicely packaged, tidy, store-bought fertilizer. But don't knock it until you've tried it! Pappu I personally think it sounds ready.
RE: Smell doesn't last
� Posted by: lilaclily z5IL (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 17:44
I forgot to add that the smell does not last once applied. I water my plants (and roses) with the strained tea, then follow up with a good shower from the hose or sprinkler. I've made several batches of this tea since last year, with nothing but positive effects not only to my plants but to my soil.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: shebear z8 NTex (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 18:50
Nobody ever said growing roses was for the weak of stomach. Dilute it and spread it everywhere. Next time leave out the fish.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Ginni77 z 5 Illinois (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 19:47
Yuck! I just mix alfalfa meal and water. Maybe a bit of Epsom Salts, but not every time. I couldn't even use the fish emulsion...I don't know how you can stand it. Plain old alfalfa tea is bad enough. I can only imagine what that stuff smells like. And I'm beginning to think just putting some alfalfa around the rose under the mulch is a better idea. I'd really be leery of the salt in the soy sauce and the brown sugar might attract all sorts of critters to your garden. If you use it, let us know how it works. Ginni (feeling really sorry for you!)
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Kernel_SJHRG_Z9B 9B CA (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 20:20
Lilaclily, Is your real name Snuffy Smith? IMWTK! Da Kernel who couldn't resist.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: madspinner z7 WA skagit (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 20:47
I've just been tossing handfulls under my plants... I've thought of brewing the tea, but you may have scared me for life! LOL! That sounds really awfull! I might have to try it anyway, but I think I'll leave out the rotting fish.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Jeri_Jennings 23 SoCal (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 21:10
DEFINITELY leave out the rotten fish! We just make plain old alfalfa tea. YES, it is stinky, but that smell goes away in a few hours. (Our neighbor did once ask what that awful smell was.) Don't plan a garden party the day you pour it out . . . the roses will thank you profusely for the pick-me-up. But ... FISH?? Soy Sauce? ICK ICK ICK. Jeri Jennings
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: lilaclily z5IL (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 22:30
Kernel, guess I'm not getting the joke? I'm from Chicago and the only time we use a word that resembles or starts with "snuff" it usually makes the front page of the newspaper the next day. But my real name is Elisabeth, pleased to meet you! You can laugh and poke fun if ya want to, but I don't need to use any chemicals, nor do I winter protect, my roses are healthy and vigorous and the rest of my many plants ain't too bad either. :) Best of all, I do it for next to nothing. Compost/alfalfa tea does alot more than just feed your plants, it feeds your SOIL. It improves your soil like no store-bought fertilizer can do. Alfalfa tea by itself works wonders, but compost tea is actually better for your plants and for your soil. I didn't come up with the recipe so I am not offended if no one wants to use it, and it is definitely not for everyone, that is true. But it is a rare day that you will find a "Help... my rose is doing such and such...." post from me on this forum.... gotta wonder why? Brother_Cadfael, oh your post was funny, I split my sides laughing, lol, read it to DH too. You're right, it's green, it glows, and it stinks... lol... lethal stuff but wouldn't trade it for the world.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Brother_Cadfael z5 seWI (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 23:29
lilaclily, I apologize if I offended you, I was unsure of the chemistry relating to the rotting fish... it just seemed like very unhealthy thing to be working with. I never expected that recipe to come from someone I respected - thought it was from some insane person:) - (affected by an insanity other than rose obsession)... I always look forward to reading your posts, we have a lot of roses in common, some in my past, but mostly in my present. Please accept my apology. BC:)
RE: Fish Brew!
� Posted by: Brother_Cadfael z5 seWI (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 23:38
Hi, my name is Brother Cadfael, I'm a rose-aholic. Step 1, in the twelve steps back to sanity: Never having to aplogize to a fellow member because I shared my uneducated opinion with the world about said members rose fertilizer brewing habits.:) BC:)
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: AndreaGeorgia z7 NC (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 0:43
Oh my, interesting what people do to keep their roses happy and make everyone else, including themselves, sick even if there are much better common sense solutions. Instead of using soy sauce (that's a bad one) and rotten fish (oh dear), you could just as well fumigate your beds with lots of SO2 and CO2 - this might poison you and your neighbor's dog but BS will disappear your roses will love it. Pump up the volume. C'mon, just use that plain old alfalfa tea and once a year add some trace elements outta the box/bottle, if needed. It's very very simple and doesn't stink that horribly. Your roses will thank you mightily, and noone will faint. Happy gardening, Andrea
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pleasegrow 7a (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 0:50
If you want to add a rotten fish, that your business, but I prefer to use fish emulsion. This is what I add to my alfalfa tea: 1- 32 gal trash can Fill with water Add 12 cups of Alfalfa meal Stir and cover for 1 week, stirring daily. This alone stinks to high heaven, almost makes me gag, but I am getting used to it. Just prior to application I add the following: 1 Cup Miricle Grow - Optional if you want all organic 1 Cup Epsom Salt 1 Cup Fish Emulsion 1 Cup liquid Seaweed Fertiziler 1 Cup Chelated Iron with micro nutrients, (new from Green Light) 2 onces of Super Thirve - (Just started adding it this year, and I have seen a huge increase in basal breaks) Stir well, apply 1 gallon per bush. Water bushes well be applying, as you may burn plant. Thanks/John
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Patricia43 z8 AL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 1:24
Well, I can't argue with success having heard it said that Johnny Becnel admonished listeners to throw a fish head in every hole.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: mjsee Zone 7, NC (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 7:50
Altogether now: Fish heads, Fish heads Roly poly Fish heads Fish heads, Fish heads Eat them up, Yum! mel
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: lilaclily z5IL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 8:24
Brother_Cadfael, you didn't offend me, I was serious when I said your post really made me laugh! Especially when you wrote "I can't imagine what the crap you brewed up smells like! What sick son of a b*t*h gave you that recipe? He/she can't have any freakin' sense of smell, or any sense at all.". LOL, 'twas me, me I say! Frankly, the stuff makes me gag. DH will tell you, the first time I brewed it, I almost hurled. I thought the same thing.... something THIS vile surely can't be good for my plants! While the recipe called for CANNED fish first, Pappu skipped a step! This is what is says: Add 1-2 cans of mackerel, sardines, or other canned fish. Supplied extra NPK, fish oil for beneficial fungi, calcium from fish bones. Most commercial fish emulsions contain no fish oils and little to no aerobic bacteria. Fresh fish parts can be used, but because of offensive odors, it should composted separately with browns like sawdust first before adding to the tea brew. NOTE: For those organic gardeners who prefer vegetarian soil amendments, you can skip the fishy ingredients, it's not necessary. There is plenty of NPK in alfalfa meal and other grains that you can use. To borrow the quote from GW member and composting expert David Hall: "Chemical fertilizers rely on an assumption that plants only need three elements to survive and thrive. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are those three. This is the equivalent of saying that we need protein, fat, and sugar to live. While this may be mostly true, pure protein, pure fat, and pure sugar do nothing to supply the vitamins, minerals, and diverse supply of bacteria and fungi in our diets. Here is a list of a dozen things that you can do with organically fed soil that cannot be achieved with conventional chemical feeding. 1. Decompose plant residues and manure to humus. 2. Retain nutrients in the form of stable humus. 3. Combine nitrogen and carbon to prevent nutrient loss. 4. Suppress fungus and bacterial diseases. 5. Produce plant growth regulators. 6. Develop soil structure, tilth, and water penetration/retention. 7. Clean up chemical residues. 8. Shift soil pH to neutral and keep it there. 9. Search out and retrieve nutrients in distant parts of the soil. 10. Decompose thatch and keep it from returning. 11. Control nitrogen supply to the plants according to need. 12. Pull minerals out of inorganic soil components for plants. Soil microbes need sugar and protein to thrive. When you apply synthetic ferts, none of the things on this list gets done. The microbes normally get sugar from plant roots. Protein in nature comes from dead insects, plants, and animals. The organic gardener applies protein artificially in the form or organic fertilizers. It is usually in the form of a ground up meal made from plants and animals to try to replicate the natural process." And now, for those of you who haven't READ the recipe, it does list the reasons why they call for certain things in the recipe: Let's assume a 5 gallon tea recipe for our example: 1. Add 1/2 bucket of finished hot compost. This supplies most of the beneficial aerobic microbes and soluble nutrients. Some people use slightly immature aerobic compost because it has more fresh nitrogen in it, but less microbes than finished hot compost. 2. Use 2-3 tblsp molasses, brown sugar, or corn syrup. This feeds and breeds the aerobic bacteria. Sugar products are mostly carbon which is what the microherd eat quickly. Add about 1-2 more tblsp of molasses for every 3 days of aerobic brewing to make sure the sugar is digested before touching the soil at application time, and to guarantee that the aerobic bacteria population stays strong throughout the brewing process. Molasses also contains sulfur which is a mild natural fungicide. Molasses is also a great natural deodorizer for fishy teas. For a more fungal tea don't add too much simple sugar or molasses to your aerobic teas. Use more complex sugars, starches and carbohydrates like in seaweed, rotten fruit, soy sauce, or other fungal foods. 3. Add 1-2 cans of mackerel, sardines, or other canned fish. I covered this above. (NOTE: If you use canned fish products, you may want to let it decompose mixed with some finished compost, good garden soil, etc. in a separate closeable container for a few days before using. Since most canned meat products contain preservatives, this will guarantee that the good microbes in the tea will not be killed off or harmed in brew making.) 4. Add 1 pack fresh seaweed. Supplies all extra trace elements. Seaweed can contain about 60 trace elements and lots of plant growth hormones. Seaweed is a beneficial fungal food source for soil microbes. Liquifying the seaweed makes it dissolve even faster. 5. Add 1-2 cups of alfalfa meal, corn meal, cattle feed, horse feed, catfish or pond fish feed. Supplies extra proteins and bacteria. Corn meal is a natural fungicide and supplies food for beneficial fungi in the soil. Notice how alfalfa is NOT the main ingredient here? 6. Add rotten fruit for extra fungal foods. Add green weeds to supply extra bacterial foods to the tea. 7. Good ole garden soil is an excellent free biostimulant. Garden soil is full of beneficial aerobic bacteria, fungi, and other great microbes. Some people make a great microbial tea just out of soil. Forest soil is usually higher in beneficial fungi than rich garden soil. 8. Fill the rest of the container with rainwater, compost tea, or plain de-chlorinated water to almost the top of bucket. You can make good "rain water" from tap water by adding a little Tang (citrus acid) to the water mix before brewing. Urine water is also an excellent organic nitrogen source for teas (up to 45% N). 9. Some people like to add 1-2 tblsp of apple cider vinegar to add about 30 extra trace minerals and to add the little acidicity that is present in commercial fish emulsions. Many fish emulsions contain up to 5% sulfuric acid to help it preserve on the shelf and add needed sulfur to the soil. You can add extra magnesium and sulfur by adding 1-2 tblsp of Epsom salt to the tea. 10. Apply the air pump to the tea. Technically even in un-aerated teas there is still some aerobic action taking place for several days. All fungi is aerobic. Some bacteria are totally aerobic, some bacteria are totally anaerobic, and some bacteria can act both aerobic or anerobic based on the soil or tea environment. Un-aerated teas can continue to keep alive some aerobic or aerobic/anaerobic microbes, for up to 10 days in a watery solution. After 10 days, the whole un-aerated tea will contain only anerobic microbes. You can expect different microbial population levels in your tea based on weather, climate, temperature, seasons, etc. In the summertime you can expect your teas to brew faster and get to your optimal microbial levels faster than in cooler fall weather. Also tea odors, color, and foaminess on top of the tea, will vary based on temperatures too." And where oh where does it say to add soy sauce??? Most importantly, Pappu, have you used any yet? It's not gonna smell any prettier, the longer you wait!
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: apple20 Z6 IN (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 8:26
As a newbie with rose obsession/addiction, I think ya'll have just scared me straight! Reading these posts is the equivalent of seeing a junkie shoot up in a back alley. I know where I'm headed if I continue down this path of "destruction." Lucky for me I have an acre and a half with close neighbors only on one side and they are pc gamers who rarely venture out into the light of day. If I do decide to brew this mess in the future it will be far, far away from the house.
It DOES say to use soy sauce!
� Posted by: lilaclily z5IL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 8:29
Oh, I see where it says soy sauce, well now, I stand corrected. "For a more fungal tea don't add too much simple sugar or molasses to your aerobic teas. Use more complex sugars, starches and carbohydrates like in seaweed, rotten fruit, soy sauce, or other fungal foods. Still sounds like a marinade for the catfish filet to me. See, even I can disagree with the recipe!
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: smom40 5MO (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 10:20
I think what put me back on my heels was three things. One, the amount of the material, threatening to take over the garage like The Blob. If the lid 'moved', that alone would cause me concern. Less intimidating if the can was only half full... Two, anerobic activity...my micro in that area is a bit rusty but doesn't fermentation produce alcohol? Not knowing how concentrated it is, concerned me. I was guessing that it can't be that concentrated given the short time of decomposition and the shear volume of the liquid? Third, the unknown bacteria activity in the liquid. Some bacteria is good, some bacteria is bad. Oftentimes it's dependent upon what is going into the bucket in the first place. But it seems like one large bacterial medium. And it's all guesswork as to what is inside because it isn't being cultured. Regular composting, especially hot compost, makes sense because it's naturally heated by the bacterial activity and in theory, kills off nasty pathogens that might be inside. But a bucket full of goo, sitting in a warm temperature garage, seems like the perfect medium for growing cooties. And if you don't know what they are... I can see myself trying this, but not in an intimidating volume like the OP described to see what the results were. Putting organics into the soil just makes sense. It's like the difference between eating food and taking a multivitamin to me. Plants in their natural state drop organic material and feed the soil. Soil feeds the plants... But I would also say that if anyone was doing this, disposable gloves would definitely be in order. I would be as concerned with this as I would be with dealing with raw manure..especially if the skin on the person's hands were not intact. A bug that might be good in the dirt might be bad in a person, kwim...As long as bugs stay where they're meant to stay, it's all good. I know that I might sound like I'm quibbling here, and it's entirely possible that there is nothing to worry about, however, I have a great respect for microorganisms and also know that one Microbiology class has can ruin you for the rest of your life. In human beings, I've seen bugs beaten and I've seen bugs win. I look at them as something to be respected. Btw, I really wanted to get seriously into composting this for the reasons that lilly described, but unfortunately I have a HOA that requires that I submit a plan for my composter and this might take until the end of time. :p
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: GaelicGardener z6 RI (madbh@aol.com) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 10:39
I live in an urban neighborhood where our houses are REALLY close together -- a car-wide driveway separates the house on either side. And my garden and garage/garden shed are only about 10 feet from my backdoor and bedroom window - so I'm not going to mess with fermenting fish heads! This is Providence -- mafia-central -- someone will call the cops thinking that someone is "sleeping with the fishes" in my backyard! I bought some stuff on QVC called Spray and Grow, which is supposed to be Vitamins for plants. Did I waste my money and time? Can a spray do any of the things listed above for nutrients?
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pappu z5 IL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 11:24
It was not dealt with this weekend because I was really busy at work. I am taking off on Tuesday (did I mention that I have a huge amount to play with?) to deal with this frothy, gassy glob in my backyard. We havent dared to open the patio doors and I can see flies buzzing above it to share the spoils. It is kinda fascinating watching it, through the glass doors, as it froths and moves. Do you think the gasses are affecting my brain?
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pappu z5 IL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 12:09
Lilaclily, how do you make 'urine water'? Should I *ee in it? LOL! I am cracking up, this is too funny...no offence meant and apologies for my bad manners, but the thought is just side-burstingly funny. I might just end up doing it, just to see DWs reaction!
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Ginni77 z 5 Illinois (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 12:29
smom, you said **doesn't fermentation produce alcohol** Pappu, does this mean that you're making moonshine??? LMBO here!!! Sorry, but I couldn't resist! I can't wait to hear how you deal with this mess. Ginni
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Subrosa PNW8(7)BCCanada (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 12:34
I'm still curious about the soy sauce - perhaps it should read "soy meal".
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: roseleaf 7SE (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 12:50
I believe the concoction (minus the soy sauce) you�ve made is excellent for lots of plants, but obviously not many (include you) can handle it, even if you live in the middle of 100 acre farm. For the tea, I do similar to what many have said earlier, to be specific: alfalfa + Epsom salt (if needed) + kelp meal. I also spread dry fishmeal around the base of the bushes, and take the roses to tea afterward. And we�re all very happy.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: lilaclily z5IL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 12:55
Pappu, not to be overly gross, but some years ago, DH would pick on a plant or rose that I happened to be in love with and threaten to let the dog pee on it. Well, once I read up that pee is actually good for plants (in small doses of course), I said, "go ahead honey, let the dog go", he couldn't use that threat any more. Now he just waggles the pruners threateningly.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Cactus_joe 7b (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 13:05
To stop the intense ferment, add a whole bunch of undiluted bleach to it. Or better still, if you can get whole of those pucks of chlorine, throw some of those in it. What you do after that ......................well, I don't know!
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: jenswrens z6 NJ & z4 MN (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 13:39
Just curious...Is the odor of all of these different teas offensive enough to keep the deer away from your plants for a few days after you spread it?
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: spongelingo z7OKC (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 13:42
Pappu, I totally understand your situation and I know exactly how you feel now. I made a mistake once and I learned from there. Last year, 1st time dealing with the tea thing, I soaked 25bl of Alfalfa pellets in a 55gal barrel of water (just water, nothing else.) I planned to apply the tea to the roses on the 4th day. But the rain started flooding my whole garden day and night for almost 5 days. By the time I was ready to apply the tea, it was the 14th day, and OMG, it was a serious, serious odor filling the air and I was so frustrated trying to figure out what to do with the whole stinking thing and I finally decided to feed all the tea to my roses and delute the left over stuff in the barrel with more water hoping that the smell would be gone so I could spread them on my lawn. After spreading out the left over stuff, the smell was unbelievably stick. I was so scared that my neighbors were going to call the cops over. I was praying all day long for the smell to be gone quicker and it lasted for 3days. From there on, I swear to myself that I will never brew any Alfalfa tea for more than 4 days regardless to what outside conditions are. Even there are tornado here in Oklahoma, I will have to get rid of the tea within 4 days time frame. So, if decide to spread them out, be prepare to deal with your neighbors and the cops (hopefully not that bad)phisically and mentally. good luck to you and never do it again ok.:)) SPO
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: smom40 5MO (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 14:20
Quote "It is kinda fascinating watching it, through the glass doors, as it froths and moves." How on earth can you sleep at night? I'm so sorry but you do you have the ability to post a picture of this...thing? If this thread has done nothing else at all for me, it's cemented a commitment in my brain to never, ever use anything bigger than a five gallon bucket with a lid and do it in HALF batches in case that it...grows. But if the damn stuff makes one false move, it's getting flushed. *eyes buggin* and lmao
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Patricia43 z8 AL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 14:33
I once made great home-made cakes, but I quit a few years ago when I realized the ladies from Chilton make them as well as I did and sell them cheaper than I can make them. I then quit making them and started buying them, after leaving the eggs out of the cake one day and wondering why just because I had 20 people in my house I might have omitted one small step. Did you ever go through that step in the fish where it said "decompose in sawdust" before using? Or did you just skip that part and go right for the gusto? It is important to follow each step very, very carefully and keep focused, the reason I no longer make home-made cakes.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pappu z5 IL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 14:59
Patricia43, I admit to skipping the 'decompose in sawdust' step. But, it's kinda strange that you can add canned fish directly but need to decompost fresh fish. Canned meat usually has preservatives and would'nt you think that it would be difficult for the bacteria to break these down? Maybe, the whole point is to have chunks of tuna floating around? Whatever, I am so done with fish and alfalfa tea... spongelingo, you give me no hope... lilaclily, how exactly does one make 'Urine water'? LOL!
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: harryshoe z6easternPA (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 15:06
I was only kidding when I suggested you drink it. However, after reading this thread, I suspect that maybe more than one of you may have been nippin'.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: WkendWarrior z6/7LI-NY (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 15:09
i am fascinated by this thread. i can't wait to read tomorrow's installment, if the Brew From Hell lets you live thru the night. og, you're brave. If I had a breathing barrel of ferment going on like that, I think I would just quietly move away...maybe to Ireland.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: smom40 5MO (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 17:13
I hope that he has a respirator!
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: spongelingo z7OKC (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 17:36
pappu, I forgot to give you my advice on the last follow up. If I were you, I would use duct tape like someone already mentioned and shield the stinking thing off real good and haul the stinking thing to an open field and dump it there. You might get in trouble if the dump truck spill the sinking thing all over the neighborhood.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: chescobob z6b SEPA (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 18:11
Remember the original Godzilla movie and then Swamp Thing? I'm wondering. Do you think the fish will come back as Fishzilla with immense teeth, fins, etc.? Maybe that is why the brew is moving.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: txkat Z7BNC (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 18:56
I have no idea why, but this entire thread makes laugh so hard I could pee....maybe I should squat near my ailing Remember Me. hmm....
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pappu z5 IL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 19:07
txkat, don't waste your pee...add it to the tea!
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: AndreaGeorgia z7 NC (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 19:10
I'm sure they will. Followed by a bunch of kittie and doggie zombies. I can't believe that this, forgive me, total tea disaster garbage, is still defended here, with way too many words anyway, and scaring everyone away who hasn't tried it. That's actually a bit sad. Well, and then again it's pretty funny (as long as I don't have to deal with that garbage, haha). Btw, John/Pleasegrow gave a good recommendation re. the use of additives. Pappu, see if you can borrow a gas mask for whatever you're trying to do with this horrific mess, and don't let your pets or anyone else near it if you have any. And before you're tempted by anymore wacky black magic advice, please use your commonsense and check back with the forum here, ok? Andrea
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pappu z5 IL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 20:05
Andrea, Lilaclily, I apologise, but my intention is not to run down any organic methods. The tea composting link actually makes a lot of sense when you think about it. totally my mess up, added way too much alfalfa, brown sugar, raw fish and did not follow the instructions...as many forumers pointed out, some alfalfa in water for 4 days will about do it and I hope I am not discouraging anyone from making tea. I am not planning to waste my tea and will use it tomorrow (I took a day off, so I can spread it around when the neighbors are all at work!)and my apologies for the poor taste *ee posts!
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Patricia43 z8 AL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 20:31
I think because I am so intrigued by all this I will make the recipe the Captain Compost guy from Alabama has recommended. I might need a week off from work just to recuperate, but I am from Missouri (no, not, I am hard-headed). I am going to try it. Let me get the ingredients together, put it all in and delegate the lid opening to my husband.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: BriansMama z5 central MA (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 20:52
It's been fun to read through this and wonder just which posts are serious and which are somewhat tongue in cheek. Just now I apparently laughed out loud - DH said "you're chuckling", so I had to explain why. Not that he really gets it. 8*) Like WkendWarrior, I can't wait to read the next installment - perhaps the denoument. -Amy.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Rilie Z5a NB, Can (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 20:59
Good luck tomorrow Pappu. May the force be with you, and the weather on your side.... I'm not sure what to say, there's no advice left to be given. LOL Make sure you let us know how you make out asap.... you have a whole forum on pins and needles.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: altoraMA 5/6 MA (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 21:13
whatever you do, don't add bleach AND urine.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: lilaclily z5IL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 21:47
All this compost tea talk made me start a batch today.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: AndreaGeorgia z7 NC (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 23:36
Hey Pappu, no reason for you to apologize! Next time, follow the simple ARS recipe and you and your neighbors will be safe. Good luck with the bio hazmat removal! Andrea
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Cactus_joe 7b (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 1:59
I would prefer to skip the brewing part and put the alfalfa straight into the soil, where it belongs. In a neighbourhood where the "stink" from my Fritillaria imperialis caused some no-so-nice comments from passers-by, the last thing I need is a stinking, fermenting mess. Hey, I have got an idea - we could experiment coming up with new life forms with the famous "Pappu's Brew"!
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: veilchen 5b s. Maine (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 7:44
hoo boy. I would throw down my garden gloves and declare a surrender. Then call a HAZMAT team to come save me and my yard. Offer to reimburse them for their trouble, like how sometimes the rangers charge unprepared lost hikers for the helicopter rescue fees.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: altoraMA 5/6 MA (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 8:58
anyone know if pappu is still alive? I wish I lived in IL so I could wait for breaking news....If we don't hear by 11:00 someone should go there and see if everything is ok.. alida growing more worried by the minute...
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Brother_Cadfael z5 seWI (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 9:30
altorMA, Just look to the southwest, if you see a green cloud, you'll know there's trouble!:) BC:)
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Carla17 z7b NC (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 9:36
Pappu, I only read your post so far and I am laughing. Thank you so much for the laugh. They don't come often these days. Carla
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: bojo96 z5 IL (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 9:50
I live in Illinois and there's not a chance in hades you are going to get me to go check on him. If this stuff has gotten him (and probably everyone else in a 50 mile radius) why sacrifice myself? LOL Normally, I'm a pretty tough person and not much scares me (OK OK spiders do) but when u have gallons and gallons of moving, boiling, stinking fluid that your just not quite sure of..I have a problem. LOL I will send the rescue squad...won't tell em what's going on, but will make sure they put on biohazard suits. Sorry Pappu...that's the best I can do for u.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: smom40 5MO (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 10:19
Call from a payphone and they won't even know that it's you. Viya con Dios, pappu.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: altoraMA 5/6 MA (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 10:24
i'm just curious, i wonder which roses he has growing?
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: bojo96 z5 IL (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 10:32
OMG...for some reason just had a picture of a GIANT fish head reaching out of the vat and snatching pappu..all that was seen was his legs kicking as he was drug into the boiling mess. smom...great idea..payphone...cept I would have to drive about 15 miles to get to one and don't know which way pappu is from me. Don't want to take the chance I've gotten 15 miles closer to this stuff. :) j/k pappu..hope this stuff gives you the best roses ever.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: WkendWarrior z6/7LI-NY (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 11:05
i'm getting worried... now i see the big fish head grabbing pappu, too. pleeze check in when you can! ww
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: lilaclily z5IL (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 12:23
Didn't see a mushroom cloud this morning as I faced south, so Pappu must be ok. Pappu!! Are ya dealing with it now as we type?
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: dragonden 6a ON CAN (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 16:13
Lol I made pretty much the same recipe as Pappu did in Late April, except I used canned Tuna (I did let it rot/compost seperately for a few days before adding it to the mix). Our weather was very cool here for most of May so it took about a week and a half before I started seeing froth on the top of the mix. Pappu doesn't mention whether he/she aerated the mix or stirred it daily ... I stirred mine at least twice a day, and I added a little extra molasses (every three to five days) to help with fermentation and to keep the stink down. My witches brew didn't stink too bad. yeah it was unpleasant ... kind of a vomit smell but only faintly ... it really wasn't that bad. Mind you- I AM a nurse so I can take pretty stinky smells. LOL I diluted the mix with water when I used it and soil drenched the garden with it. Then I watered the garden. The garden smelled when I put the mix down but after watering the smell really decreased and was gone the next day. I added more water to that first batch and let it brew again and used it about two weeks later. Since then I've added more alfalfa to the batch (6 cups), espsom salts (1 cup), iron green (4 capful) and have kept it going- stirring daily, diluting it with water and dosing my plants approx every two weeks. Everything is growing wonderfully. Roses have lots of basal breaks, covered with buds (aphids and little flies with wings too!) and the perennials are growing well too. I'm very happy with the results. Oh, I also experimented with using yeast (regular cooking yeast) in the recipe. I've seen mention of people using superthrive and I think one of the main ingredients of superthrive is vitamin B1 (thiamine) which is also found in regular yeast. So ... I made a cup of yeast mixture- 1 cup warm water, 1 1/2 tsp sugar, 1 tbsp yeast and let it froth, then added it to the tea. Seems to have worked. Any thoughts on using yeast instead of superthrive? I also found a way to get around the neighbours with the smell. Most of my neighbours are older and retired, so they are home all day and unless I pour the brew on my garden late at night (have done that) I can't get away with out someone smelling the mix and wondering what the heck I'm up to. My neighbours all have gardens. They have seen how well my garden has been doing since spring began (literally since the end of March my garden has been green and growing better than ever) so i offered to pour some of my special mix on their gardens and they love it too and there are no complaints about the smell. :) This is my first year making alfalfa (plus plus plus) tea. In past years I've just added some pellets around the roses and I got good results with that but the tea is much better. My husband says I'm give the roses steroids and I think he's right. :)
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Twinkle 7 GA (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 16:52
Pappu, please tell how you are getting rid of that mess! I have some alfalfa tea that I sorta forgot about. It is several weeks old right now, and I am afraid to open the lid. Very afraid.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Bean_counter_z4 Zone 4, Rkfd,IL (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 16:58
Everyone waiting for the latest installment of pappu's exciting saga. This could go any one of three ways, as I see it. 1. Pappu reports back and says the roses have developed super-botanical powers and have given him a list of thier demands. 2. There is a smoking hole somewhere in IL where the stuff ate thru the bottom of the trash can. 3. The roses are now dead along with the grass and trees, and all the paint is gone of one side of pappu's house. Actually, there was a thread similar to this a year or so ago. Someone described the tea as smelling like a wino with a fish in his pocket that crawled into a hole and died. Who would have thought fertilizer could be so funny?
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: AndreaGeorgia z7 NC (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 17:16
Anyone willing to call the local ER's?
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: chescobob z6b SEPA (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 17:42
Here is something to think about. In about a week, what if pappu reports that the roses have grown very well, there are new basals everywhere, and the new blooms are all 8 inches across with the most incredibly good fragrance? There could be a run on catfish filets. I have not heard of any reports on CNN about Fishzilla heading for Chicago. Geez, I can picture a rubbery looking Fishzilla walking in from Lake Michagan, crossing Lakeshore Drive, and strutting down Michigan Avenue.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: altoraMA 5/6 MA (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 19:22
Hmm. 7:20 pm and still no word? I'm dying to know what happened! and a little worried! alida
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: smom40 5MO (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 19:46
I've been waiting all day for this...
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Rilie Z5a NB, Can (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 20:43
If the tea didn't get him, maybe the neighbors did......
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: AndreaGeorgia z7 NC (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 20:55
Or he's making the big bucks now by selling this potent drug to the local rose junkies. Let's hope that they or their roses won't OD. Andrea
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: rokkis_mom z7 Atlanta (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 21:11
Will this thread disappear when it hits 100 posts? That will be so sad. I think Pappu better post on a new thread to let us know he's ok. Giant, lurking fishheads be darned... if he accidentally spilled the stuff and now has beautiful, huge, lush roses... we're all gonna wish we had cut and pasted the recipe somewhere.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: MoRoseAz z9/Phoenix (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 21:16
Pappu? Did Tommy TeaMix get up and walk out on his own? Can this stuff cause groundwater contamination? Love Canal? Did the recipe call for any ol' canned tuna in oil or water or did it have to be solid white albacore? Maybe Tommy TeaMix is responsible for that other post "What's under Maggie?".
RE: A big stinking mess! Revisited
� Posted by: rokkis_mom z7 Atlanta (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 21:25
Oh, my gosh! Do you think maybe it's migrating? Like the Japanese Beetles? How long do you think we have? I've never seen this one in my disaster preparedness handbook.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: bojo96 z5 IL (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 22:16
Just came in from doing a yard stroll with DH. As we near the front of the yard to check out the first Fragrant Plum bloom....an ambulance goes by..lights on, no siren heading back towards the hospital 20 min. away. Nahhhhhhhhhhhh couldn't be pappu...could it? pappu!!!!!!!!! tell us how it went....your making us nervous and as rose growers we have enought to freak about! LOL
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Ginni77 z 5 Illinois (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 22:30
Gee, I thought I'd sign in here and see how Naveed got rid of the BIG MESS! And no post from him. Pappu, are you there??? We're really anxious to hear what happened! Ginni
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pappu z5 IL (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 22:32
Gosh! That's a lot of moral support ! It's dealt with, it's gone, it's back to the ground it came from. It took all day and I am pooped to even type, but I will post my report...it seems that it is now a matter of national security.. I had latex gloves on, a mask and I almost puked in the first 5 minutes, but strangely, I could not smell it after about 10 min, the stench probably burned all the nasal neurons. this is what I did with it....a big mug of the 'mother' tea (more like sludge) in a 5 gallon bucket, fill the bucket with water and empty it around a rose bush....After it was down to half, I filled it with water and directly spread it around the bushes. I have about 100 roses now (started May 04 with 1, and now thanks to y'all I have no social life and a neurotic wreck, staring at planted bareroots everyday, willing them to sprout leaves). Every plant in the garden got this stuff, including the petunias. I am philosophical about this, either everything dies or I have the 'honey I shrunk the kids' kinda yard. It was 90's today and by late afternoon, I was dizzy and felt sick, but it was finally done, the bottom scraped and everything washed and at 5 p.m, I am in the house, all doors and windows locked to keep the smell out and waiting for the police to knock anytime now.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: decobug Z6a Idaho SW (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 22:50
I'm proud of you! You are one step closer to being a 'rosarian'... :)
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: debrazone9socal z9losangeles (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 23:27
Pappu, you are da bomb!!!
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clipped on: 09.16.2014 at 08:21 pm    last updated on: 09.16.2014 at 08:22 pm

RE: another Newbie question... pistachio (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: Natsu on 03.11.2012 at 10:00 pm in Hydrangea Forum

Hortensia Pistachio� 'Horwack' aka Hydrangea macrophylla Saxon® `Schloss Wackerbarth in europe

These are the best photoshop free pics around.They have these plants in europe for years before they reach us. The pics are normally pretty true compared to the U.S. release hype.

The hortensia Pistachio ™ 'Horwack' (Hydrangea Pistachio ™ 'Horwack')

Ball launches in 2012 a "new generation" of hydrangeas, with new colour combinations. A very exciting collection. As such, the hydrangea large leaf 'Pistachio' gives a quite original floral composition: large umbels of 12 cm (5 inches) in diameter consisting of scarlet red flowers shades of green, pink, purple and chartreux... resembling the color of pistachio, what indeed evokes the name of the cultivar. Bonus, the ground of flowers is variable, which adds a note joking its flowering. It blooms on old wood and refleurit on new wood. This shrub may be between 80 to 120 cm (32 to 48 inches) in height and width can vary between 1-1.5 m (3-5 ft). It forms a very compact mound of dark green leaves.

As its hardiness is better than several other hydrangeas big-leaf, flowering is easier than traditional cultivars in northern regions. This cultivar withstand temperatures up to - 29 ° C. It must give a soil with lots of organic matter, well-drained slightly acid. Can cultivate the semi-shade or full sun.

acidic soil

Lime soil

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clipped on: 09.07.2014 at 09:17 am    last updated on: 09.07.2014 at 09:17 am

RE: Curb appeal help (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: JAWRIG2292 on 09.05.2014 at 12:00 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Here is an update to the garage curb appeal. These faux windows and décor from coach house accents helped. Now I'll work on the entry way when I figure out how to approach it.

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clipped on: 09.05.2014 at 01:40 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2014 at 01:40 pm

RE: So dissapointed with my paint color choice (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: macybaby on 02.15.2012 at 09:06 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Have you put on two coats? I don't even think about if I like the color until I've got the second coat on. I've not found a paint I think is OK with only one coat. I think it has more to do with sheen than color.

I have had many rooms that didn't look quite right until after I put on the second coat.

I pay a lot of attention to the colors that get mixed into the paint. I really did not want any red or blue undertones and found four swatches that looked almost identical. Then I looked at the forumla and was able to pick the exact one based on that - one had a hint of blue, one had a hint of red, one a hint of green and one a hint of black. I went with the one with black. It's a blond/beige color. Though the chips looked very similar, I expect each one would have a slightly different undertone once on the walls.

I also found looking at the other colors in the "family" helped tell if the color was right - or if the darker colors move to a shade I don't like.

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clipped on: 09.05.2014 at 11:37 am    last updated on: 09.05.2014 at 11:37 am

RE: New Roof- Need more ventilation (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: handymac on 04.14.2014 at 06:03 pm in Home Repair Forum

You got the best advice from several knowledgeable folks.

Adding turbines or passive vents when gable vents are used reduces the efficiency of either or both. Example, the turbines allow hot air to be exhausted---the replacement air has to come into the attic from somewhere---it will take the path of least resistance and come in the gable vents. That means the majority of the air in the attic is static--very little actual ventilation.

Adding a ridge vent when the roof is stripped to sheathing is usually less expensive than adding three or four turbines or six to eight passive vents.

Cutting soffit vents is cheap, Adding grills is cheap. Only other expense is sealing the gable vents.

The expense is encountered if bridging under the sheathing is necessary---and that could be a part of the later on insulation project.

The ridge vent is install and forget---no moving parts, works on natures rules(hot air rises), and is vastly more efficient that turbines or passive vents. And the soffit vents force the incoming air to enter at the base of the attic---and moving most of the air ---improving ventilation.

You asked for the best opinion---and got the best option from several folks.

You could get a ridge vent(materials) for about $150-$200. Labor is barely a total of 2 hours. Three good turbines will cost from $150-$175) and the same labor.

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clipped on: 09.03.2014 at 03:10 pm    last updated on: 09.03.2014 at 03:10 pm

RE: New Roof- Need more ventilation (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: snidely on 04.15.2014 at 01:43 pm in Home Repair Forum

fairfield, in many jurisdictions, getting a new roof requires a permit, and many building codes specify how much ventilation is required per square foot. You'll certainly have a choice as to which ventilation type is used, but not IF or how much.

saltidawg, what Mayaa was trying to say was a preference if the option for homeowner to think for remolding, advice has timing. Consequences appear.

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clipped on: 09.03.2014 at 03:08 pm    last updated on: 09.03.2014 at 03:09 pm

Cedar Roof --- replace or restore

posted by: nosoccermom on 10.28.2013 at 11:59 am in Home Repair Forum

I have a cedar roof that's about 20 years old. I had it inspected and was told that it needs to be replaced because it's too far deteriorated.
Those in the know, could you have a look and let me know what you think? Can the roof be repaired?
 photo roof_zpsc9675657.png

If not, replacing with cedar would be twice the price of asphalt, so I don't think we'll go for that.
The company suggested Certainteed Landmark Composite. Any feedback on that tile?

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clipped on: 09.03.2014 at 03:05 pm    last updated on: 09.03.2014 at 03:05 pm

RE: Defective CertainTeed roof shingles/shangles (Follow-Up #121)

posted by: Sharon Haas (Guest) on 06.25.2009 at 06:48 pm in Home Repair Forum

My home owners clearly states that they are not respnsible for defective materials used in the remodeling or building of the home or for any damages caused as a result of the defective materials failing.
Check your policy but I bet they are pretty much all written that way.

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clipped on: 09.03.2014 at 02:53 pm    last updated on: 09.03.2014 at 02:54 pm

BeachhouseMBRsuite (v. long, grab drink)

posted by: mtnrdredux on 09.03.2014 at 01:13 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

We are so happy with this room, we never want to leave it. It needs some touches, mostly artwork (again! but in this case I think I have some things i can use here). I also have to think about WT for the french doors, and I am waiting on crinkled muslin (thanks again AnnieD!) to drape the bed.

My starting point for the room was the Madeline Weinrib rug, and a bed I already had. I posted a lot on choosing nightstands (Anthro) and pendants (Layla Grace), both of which are ultra-girly. I really wanted mirrors over the nightstands (another long post) but the electrician has switches in the way, and I'm ok with that.

The room was created by combining two existing BR with one of the hall baths and part of the hallway, as well as replacing windows w french doors and adding a deck. We also stole 2 feet that had been occupied by closets, (one entered from a 3rd BR and one entered from the center BR; see wavy line to right of bedin new layout).

Most GW'ers were against the changes this required to the facade. After careful consideration we went ahead and it was totally, totally, the right thing to do. The deck off of our MBR is a MUST for the light, and views, sound and scent of the ocean. It totally makes the room. I am fine with the resulting facade (which btw is natural cedar and will age to grey). Pal had a great suggestion with round windows flanking the deck doors, which we may do. I also thank Pal for encouraging me to go ahead with the facade changes for the overwhelming functional benefits.

I chose an unconventional layout to minimize disruption and cost, and give us a lot of bathroom/dressing room space, plus a private w/c and w/d. I used a vintage tub, and 3 vintage sinks. Very happy with the layout, which many nixed for the long long long trip to the W/C. We are happy with it.

(disclaimer; ipad photos; can't find my camera)

BEFORE layout; no real MBR, both baths were hall baths (one tiny and decrepit), no outdoor space.

 photo Screenshot2014-09-03at114904AM_zps33127e40.png

Exterior before:
 photo Screenshot2013-08-29at90511PM_zps8da779a5.png

Exterior after (will age to grey), need to take one from the same perspective:
 photo IMG_0451_zps0e4b4623.jpg

Layout after (MBR suite only)
 photo Screenshot2013-11-27at22538PM_zps9490582c.png

"MBR" before
 photo MBR.jpg

MBR moodboard:
 photo Screenshot2014-03-09at82938PM_zps9e173463.png

MBR after:
 photo IMG_0425_zps235de4c1.jpg

 photo IMG_0429_zps6b3bcecb.jpg

 photo IMG_0298_zpsec4a80b3.jpg

MBR "vestibule"... the entry to the MBR is via what was a hall closet. I put shelves in there, and I really like the detail. To be styled.

 photo IMG_0331_zps0a237762.jpg

 photo IMG_0329_zps37547432.jpg

MBA moodboard:
 photo Screenshot2014-04-30at74036PM_zps40e0abe4.png

After MBA, two rooms (one with shower and toilet and folding RR sink, see last photo)
 photo IMG_0307_zpsf99f0a12.jpg

 photo IMG_0306_zpsa5531d0b.jpg

"MBA" before (excuse mess):
 photo DSC03136.jpg

After:
 photo IMG_0313_zps008a1800.jpg

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RE: BeachhouseMBRsuite (v. long, grab drink) (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: vasue on 09.03.2014 at 02:03 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Fabulous - can certainly see why you never want to leave! Previously unaware of your remodeling thread, must say the changes to the exterior were done so artfully, truly can't tell it wasn't always that way. Such a thoughtful layout, well done.

Curious if the floors are original & if refinished, how did you seal the bathroom floor? The train pull-down sink near the shower is a stroke of genius. Great use of updating by backdating the bath fixtures to classic comfort. Will have to backtrack through your threads to see the evolution that led to this serenity.

Standing ovation, pop the champagne!

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RE: Did I mount this curtain rod too high? (Follow-Up #36)

posted by: vasue on 09.03.2014 at 12:56 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Pretty room! How about covering that stretch of wall above the window with a piece of lace? The wall color would show behind the lace & unite the window treatment. Depending on the drop between the rod & the window molding, could simply drape the lace over the top of the existing curtains & the rod, pinning in place behind with those little brass safety pins. If you sew, you could make two buttonholes in the back of the lace's rod pocket where the lace fills the gap in the curtains so the lace could be slipped onto the rod there, and sew the ends straight across the top of the side curtains, so it would hang from them rather than directly from the rod. Even by hand, a simple job. I'd want the center lace to be nearly straight on the rod, rather than ruched, so the pattern would show clearly, with the drop just touching the top of the window framing or slightly below. It would gather on top of the side curtains with them if sewn on. If just framing the rod to window by folding it over the rod & curtains & pinning, I'd keep it straight or just slightly gathered for a tailored look. Would also solve the transparency of the side curtains against the top of the wall by covering it along with the rod itself. Sort of a soft version of a valance box.

Searched "lace valance" looking for straight edge ones. The link is to a vintage yet new old stock, unused, Quaker Lace plain valance that may echo the bedspread design. These old Quaker Laces are mostly cotton (80% - with 20% poly so they can be machine washed on gentle with warm water & dried on low), so they have enough heft to do the job & hang well. Made my first curtains out of Quaker Lace tablecloths in this blend many moons ago, and still have them, so can verify their quality.

Anything to avoid changing out the rod or rehanging it is a good idea to my way of thinking! Think this would fit right in with the vintage with modern touches blend you have going & add subtle charm. A simple rectangular scarf of another less transparent material could also be used in the same way. but I think the soft graphic of the lace would be most appealing in your setting.

Here is a link that might be useful: Vintage Quaker Lace

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RE: How are your Forever&Ever hydrangeas doing? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: vasue on 08.25.2014 at 04:58 pm in Hydrangea Forum

Al, love your pun "Forever & Ever to bloom"! Imagine that's no fun for you, but thanks for the chuckle.

F & E's new for me this year. After last Winter's dieback to roots of existing plants, hydrangeas with new & old wood blooming potential caught my attention in a Big Way. Not yet a fair trial as all still in pots (some graduated to larger ones) & only here since May, so preliminary reports from central Virginia in order of heaviest bloom:

Pistachio - bought as 3-gallons in bud & bloom with many wooded stems - very high flower count, cranking out new blooms continually while still holding the originals (no deadheading) on lengthening old & new growth branches at every node. Heat didn't slow it down, another crop of blooms opened a few days ago & more new buds swelling. Looks like a child's drawing of a flowering bush, covered in flowers.

Fantasia - bought as 1-gallon & shortly after two more 3-gallons all in bud & bloom.- not as loaded nor consistent as Pistachio, but regularly cycling out new blooms on new growth while keeping the originals. Even the younger plant keeps opening new blooms reliably.

Together - bought as 3-gallon in bud & bloom, kept its original flowers for 3 months till clipped all but one to dry & preserve & to see if doing so would prompt new flowers. One left still fresh & pretty & new buds appearing now 3 weeks later. This plant appears to have put most of its energy into growing considerably larger. Originally 18" high & wide, it's now 3x4', close to its projected mature size. Hoping next year it will concentrate on blooming as abundantly as it's grown! Like it so much, picked up 2 more gallons recently in bud & bloom before this one started showing new flower buds.

Blue Heaven - bought as 1-gallon in bud & bloom, this caught my eye for the various individual colors of each bloom - some pink, some blue, some lavender - in contrast to other examples with monotone blooms. Have wondered if it may have been mislabeled - time will tell. It grew quickly, soon potted up to 3-gallon where it's continued to grow luxuriantly. Like Together, its mature size is given as 4x4' or larger, and this one seems in an equal hurry to get there. It's proven the most sun-sensitive, as others have noted. Clipped its blooms same time as Togethers, to see if that would stimulate new blooms & since they were at a beautiful turquoise & slate blues stage that happily dried perfectly in a basket. Just this week showing new buds, so the potential for further bloom is there even in a young & rapidly growing example. Again, hoping it will settle down next season in the growth department & direct its focus into more abundant blooms.

(Keeping an eye out for Peace, originally bypassed as white for more colorful examples. Springwood & others report it pinks up nicely, which would be welcome here.)

Please strongly consider protecting the perimeter against future weed-whacker incidents! Roots of your previously mown hydrangeas should eventually put out new growth.

This post was edited by vasue on Mon, Aug 25, 14 at 17:04

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RE: New York Times - Secret to happiness (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: vasue on 09.01.2014 at 04:07 pm in Roses Forum

Thanks, Henry, fascinating idea.

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RE: Time between flushes, etc.? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: vasue on 09.01.2014 at 03:51 pm in Roses Forum

Sammy, believe you're right about snapping the blooms encouraging greater continuity. That's my style, but most enjoy roses in the garden rather than taking them for vases. Considering a cutting garden with roses so they could come inside with me without feeling I'm robbing the garden, lol. Buy roses for Winter vases, just seldom cut my own...

Susan, your Countess is breathtaking! HMF lists her as "mild fragrance". Is that code for "none"?

This post was edited by vasue on Mon, Sep 1, 14 at 15:53

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clipped on: 09.01.2014 at 03:54 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2014 at 03:54 pm

Phlox paniculata

posted by: aftermidnight on 08.05.2014 at 01:30 pm in Perennials Forum

I know not favorites with some but I really like them :). I want to add a few more to the garden, so pictures please.
I have 'Mt. Fujiyama', 'Blue Paradise' (we think) and 'Purple Kiss', I did have more but over the years as I changed my garden beds around they were given away, it seems I have come full circle and want to add more, nice punches of color this time of year.
Here's my latest addition, Yes I know I thought I was finished buying for the summer but honestly I just went to buy a little plant of Greek Oregano and saw this :). I took a picture of the flower before cutting it back.
'Red Caribbean' who said pink and red don't look good together I think this one is a beauty.
Annette

This post was edited by aftermidnight on Wed, Aug 6, 14 at 1:26

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RE: Advice about Roses and a Rose Trellis (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: vasue on 08.30.2014 at 05:23 pm in Roses Forum

Don Juan is a climbing rose that grows typically at least 10-12' tall & 8' wide. You're concerned that the Knockouts will eventually grow too big for the space, so just checking in with Don Juan's eventual size. Since you plan to train the long canes horizontally, the height will be reduced by adding to the width. Jackson & Perkins recommends planting 8' apart for solid coverage. ( http://tinyurl.com/mr5r7a8 ) Click on "plant description" at that link for further details. So I'm with kippy here that you wouldn't need more than 2 for your 15' fence.

Though you're thinking of trellis to space the roses away from the fence, consider the suggestions of boncrow & kippy for espaliering using the fence. Eyebolts of appropriate length can be screwed to the fence to hold horizontal runs of wire, or blocks of wood or whatever can be attached to the fence at right angles to project from it to hold shorter eyebolts for the same purpose. (And light to medium weight trellis can be attached in the same manner from the fence.) This is the simplest, least expensive & most unobtrusive method. Canes are lightly tied to the wires with soft material, as you probably saw in the videos, in a figure 8.

Check out kona's photos - 2nd & 3rd down on the left in the link below - to see how this has been done. There are only two runs of wire. While you're there, check out all the photos of this lovely rose & the ways it's been grown.

Here is a link that might be useful: Don Juan photos

This post was edited by vasue on Sat, Aug 30, 14 at 17:28

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RE: SJHRG catalog question (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: vasue on 08.31.2014 at 05:41 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Way out of your climate zone, but grew Golden Wings in a Shenandoah Valley garden, where it flowered from Spring till late in Fall. Under References at HelpMeFind, found several reporting repeat to continuous bloom, as does Rogue Valley in the link below. Even Austin remarks on its "Excellent continuity of flowering" on his USA site. Maybe it's a deadheading & watering issue? Santa Fe Botanical Garden in NM notes it blooms from "mid-spring to late summer" there, and believe that's a semi-arid climate. It may receive supplemental watering, as they advise "deep watering every once in a while. Be sure to water it at the base or by drip irrigation".

Remember it as a charming rose, with great Autumn hips if the last crop of blooms aren't removed. Thinking of it now, there are several places in this garden where it would shine - thanks for the reminder!

Here is a link that might be useful: Golden Wings

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RE: Time between flushes, etc.? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: vasue on 08.31.2014 at 12:18 pm in Roses Forum

Been rather a slow cycle year for bloom here this year, too. Suspect a result of the on-again off-again Spring (after unusual extended Winter cold) that delayed soil warming till nearly mid-June - a full six weeks later than the norm. Wonder if that crimped helpful soil organisms' growth, which in turn affected the roses & other plantlife?

Two roses that previously pumped out flowers continuously - by which I mean new buds beginning & others swelling at the same time blooms are opening, each stage simultaneously ocurring in great quantity - haven't managed to do so this year but instead produced three traditional flushes with lower number of blooms. Floribunda Easy Does It and shrub/climber Golden Celebration are the two that displayed actual continuous bloom in prior years. Roses that rapidly cycled previously - 3 to 4 weeks from petal fall to new blooms opening - have taken a week or two longer. Even weeds that typically grow quickly & luxuriantly here have been relatively restrained this year.

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RE: Looking for online store to buy rose trees. (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: vasue on 08.28.2014 at 01:43 am in Roses Forum

Regan Nursery offers a good selection of 36" standards. Seems you'll need to select "36" standard rose tree" under Rose Class AND "36" Tree" under Type to search them. Many mail order nurseries offer some 36" standards, but a short search of those familiar to me showed Regan with the most varieties. These would be sent bare root next Spring. Perhaps a local nursery would be willing to order from their suppliers for you for Spring delivery.

Believe these would need heavy protection to overwinter in your zone. possibly best garage kept. You may want to ask if others here are growing these successfully in your zone & what methods they use in Winter.

Here is a link that might be useful: Regan search

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clipped on: 08.28.2014 at 01:47 am    last updated on: 08.28.2014 at 01:47 am

Kordes rose performance

posted by: gardenerzone4 on 07.15.2012 at 01:54 am in Roses Forum

I'm targeting BS-resistant roses for next year, which led me to ADR and mostly Kordes roses. Would like to know how these have performed for you--please share the good, bad, and ugly.

Jasmina
Amadeus
Golden Gate
Aloha Hawaii
Rosanna 2002

Caramel Fairy Tale
Cinderella Fairy Tale
Elegant Fairy Tale
Alexandra Princess de Luxembourg

Grande Amore 2005
Mother of Pearl
Beverly
Eliza
Souvenir de Baden Baden (aka Pink Enchantment)
Liv Tyler
Mondiale
Fantasia Mondiale
Apricot Candy
Sweet Promise
Winter Sun
Golden Fairy Tale/Sterntaler

Out of Rosenheim
Brothers Grimm Fairy Tale
Lion's Fairy Tale
Pomponella Fairy Tale
Larissa

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RE: Kordes rose performance (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: lizalily on 07.15.2012 at 11:59 pm in Roses Forum

I plannted Amadeus from Palatine this year and already it is AMAZING! It has clmbed to the top rung of my trellis, about 6' but the bottom 1/3 is a solid mass of flaming red petals that never seem to get old and faded. The leaves are really healthy shiny and green. I lost Sisters Fairytale in a winter freeze which surprised me. Lions Fairytale is about 5'tall and 6' across, shiny green leaves and pretty cream white flowers with an almost mocha tone down in their center...call it "Tawny". IT has no fragrance but from a distance it does a great job of keeping the garden in bloom!

Pompenella is NOT happy with our dampness. The outer petals turn brownish and fail to open. I keep hoping when we have a number of sunny days that I will finally get some pretty flowers but even when the petals are peeled off the outside the color looks a bit brownish and worn to me. This may be the last year for mine. The leaves are lovely and healthy looking however. I bought Black Forest this year and am loving the bright pure red little roses on it...no sign of disease there!

Nearly all of my most beautiful roses are Kordes roses. You could pick them out in my garden by their beautiful foliage and lasting flowers. My most spectacular one has to be South Africa. I have loved every flower it has produced and there are many since I bought it 2 winters ago. But give it room..it leaps out of the ground in spring, and grows to Grandiflora size faster then any other, and covered with Shiny green, healthy leaves. They are followed by deep orange buds. Now in July the roses are golden orange, but I loved them when they were deep orange at the beginning too!
I do love Brothers Grimm Fairytale rose too...Bright orange buds backed by soft yellow, but as the blooms age they turn to hot pink and with soft yellow back. ITs always a show unto itself, and has a lovely scent that reminds me of violets. I like it as a cutting rose with its bright colors. I am pretty much sticking with Kordes roses as my main ones in my front garden now...they just do so much better for me and the grafted ones from Palatine LOVE my acid soil!

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RE: Kordes rose performance (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: michaelg on 07.15.2012 at 04:18 pm in Roses Forum

'Mother of Pearl' is from Meilland, not Kordes, but it has been outstanding for me--disease resistant plant so far, HT-style flowers in an unearthly shade of peachy pink, fragrant to me but apparently not to everyone.

Thanks to Duck for valuable info about Cinderella.

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clipped on: 08.27.2014 at 09:17 am    last updated on: 08.27.2014 at 09:17 am

Transplanting this tree - how realistic?

posted by: Johniferous on 08.23.2014 at 03:16 pm in Conifers Forum

I think this is a Norway Spruce, but if you think it's something else let me know and I'll post a pic of the foliage up close.

So the previous owner planted it in 2007 as a small tree. It's now about 9 feet to the tip of this years candle. It's beautiful...and planted directly under a 20 foot high power line.

I refuse to top it and make it look like crap. So I'm either enjoying it for a few years then killing it, or.....transplanting it to a different spot on my property next month.

How realistic is the idea of doing this? It has to be done by hand with a few friends - a truck or baco cannot get to this area of my property.

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RE: Preventing Japanese Beetles (Follow-Up #65)

posted by: vasue on 08.25.2014 at 12:35 pm in Roses Forum

Usually a few JP's show up & are easily picked off. Some years more than others, but never in large numbers. This year they came late to the party in mid-July & brought their friends - maybe a third the quantity shown in harryshoe's photo - an invasion. (Harryshoe, salute your devotion to your roses!) Finally all but gone a month later.

Doesn't help that roses here have good to powerful fragrance - a feature as attractive to them as to me. Even the nights & early mornings were too warm this Summer to make the beetles sluggish for easy capture. A friend keeps chickens, and she mentioned they love to chow down on JP's. Trying to figure out how to trap & keep them alive for feeding, got the idea to chill tall thick plastic glasses stacked in the freezer till the hunt was on.

Holding a frozen tumbler beneath a bloom, found merely bending the blossom into the mouth of the glass & tapping it gently against the interior caused all the beetles to immediately fall off, even those tucked into the petals, apparently stunned by the rising cold. Sometimes snipped the entire flower into the glass if it was nearly blown. Doing this bloom by bloom didn't alert those on other flowers & it was quick & neat to fill the glass halfway. Just needed a cardboard postcard capping to go into the fridge before grabbing another frozen glass & going at another rose bush. When all that day's harvest were trapped, poured them into wide-mouth mason jars with paper towel held in place across the top by the ring & into the fridge they neatly went. Stayed alive in cold storage & weren't awake enough to evade the chickens when shaken out on the ground for them, though they'd warmed on the ride over to my friend's house.

Never having jarred beetles this way before, must say it did my heart good to see them inert in their clear glass jars neatly lined up on the refrigerator shelf! Fresh from this organic garden, chickens gobbled them up. Took to calling them Japanese Relish...good for something - someone - after all.

Imagine the cold stun & capture approach could be modified & used for immediate disposal, or icy water used in the traditional bucket manner might be helpful.

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clipped on: 08.25.2014 at 12:38 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2014 at 02:19 pm

moving 16 ft. norway

posted by: plantkiller.il.5 on 06.12.2014 at 08:57 pm in Conifers Forum

Some years ago, I had 2 black hills spruce delivered to plant behind the shed.
They mixed up the delivery ,and one was a Norway,not noticing this until after planting.
I knew I would eventually have to move it. About 6 years ago I did it.
It took 2 full weekends of digging,burlaping,tying...8 ft. hole, plus a ramp out.
I rented a chain, pulled the truck in the back yard,put a sheet of steal behind the root ball.
Well that baby slid right up he ramp and across the yard and into the new hole standing up all the way.
Saving grace- the wire basket was still intact and I saved as many roots as possible rather than shearing them off.
Early summer.....fill up hole half with soil...water..repeat.
weekly watering....almost no stress or browning..Success !
ron

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clipped on: 08.24.2014 at 01:22 pm    last updated on: 08.24.2014 at 01:23 pm

RE: Need your opinion on shower stall (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: vasue on 08.24.2014 at 12:36 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Another here who likes larger tiles in small spaces, for ease of care & visual expansion. As far as placement, three 12" tiles would span each wall with the middle tile centered & each side tile cut equally to fit...

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RE: Need your opinion on shower stall (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: vasue on 08.24.2014 at 12:11 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Yayagal, thanks for the link to Wetwall. Any idea on pricing? Something similar available stateside? Large shower here & exploring solid surface rather than tile.

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clipped on: 08.24.2014 at 12:11 pm    last updated on: 08.24.2014 at 12:12 pm

Very different from glass house

posted by: AnnieDeighnaugh on 08.23.2014 at 08:44 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Took a hike and a house tour today at Topsmead, a house built in the 20s, inspired by Cotswald cottages. This place is cozy in the extreme. As much as I liked the glass house, I think I'd have no problem moving in here in a minute.

Hard to see in this pic, but that yellow thing next to the chair is a dahlia the size of a dinner plate!

Normally I'm not a fan of oak woodwork because of what they did in the past with the light/honey oak, but here it was a lovely warm color and looked fabulous.


In addition to the warmth, the place provides lots of nooks and vignettes, inside and out...

With wonderful views out of every window.

The fact that it's set on over 500 acres at the top of a hill doesn't hurt...with a mix of meadows, orchards, pine forests, ponds, etc. Just wonderful.

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RE: Transplant looking pretty bad... (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: vasue on 08.23.2014 at 04:17 pm in Roses Forum

I think it's magnificent in its individuality - like an outsized bonsai - and its trough planter (brilliant idea) gives it a very French country flair. Another standing ovation to you for recognizing its unique beauty & working so hard to preserve it! I don't think it's doomed at all. I've moved some big plants, including roses in active growth, without cutting them back at all except for snipping any buds & blooms. (Also surprised at how small their roots were sometimes in contrast to their top growth, having started by digging rings around them several feet out from the trunk.) Figuring the plant will decide which branches or foliage it cannot support better than I, usually few died back & were clipped off but some leaves would shed and regrow.

You might consider shading the metal trough from the hot sun, as metal containers can heat up quite a bit even in this climate, baking roots too close to the sides in the process, making for trying conditions for a plant whose roots were previously cool. Agree with shading the rose temporarily, as with any transplant in heat. Might clip a cloth or bedsheet to the gutters & to stakes to give it and the trough a canopy that will filter the intensity of the sun. If you have a misting setting on your hose wand, might use that several times a day to mist the leaves. Shredded mulch wetted when you water would release more humidity to the branches, or sheet moss tucked across the soil & held with hairpins to keep soil from splashing in watering & insulate.

Bravo!

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RE: Info on Floribunda varieties (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: vasue on 08.22.2014 at 06:09 pm in Roses Forum

I've grown two from your list, both grafted. Similar experience with grandiflora White Lightnin' as Pat, though recall it staying around 4' tall & equally as wide in a past 6b garden. Clean from blackspot no spray & didn't attract thrips, as some pale roses have for me. Great perfume & lovely zinnia-type blooms when fully open. Not a pale yellow for me, but a French vanilla with a buttery heart. Imagine planting next to yellow would bring that out more. Love the way you've bookended it with Julia Child, Pat! Thinking I need WL in this garden, too, and may copy your placement in admiration.

Amber Queen was a favorite in years past, just beautiful with ruffled blooms of amber & apricot shaded with buff. Good but not powerful fragrance, clean leaves in blackspot country no spray, grew 2x2' feet, old-style twiggy classic floribunda. Grafted bareroots succumbed (twice) to Winter cold, but the grafts were not buried, as most were not prior to the last few years. Would welcome AQ back again in a more sheltered spot, perhaps own root this time round.

Edited to add: Met French Lace many times in central Florida in gardens & nurseries while visiting my folks. Charming form & coloration, healthy there but unknown if spray protected. Not much of a scent to me, unless nose-deep for a faint nicely spicy sweet whiff. That removed it from consideration here, but was often tempted & always intrigued by it.

This post was edited by vasue on Fri, Aug 22, 14 at 18:24

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clipped on: 08.22.2014 at 06:27 pm    last updated on: 08.22.2014 at 07:22 pm

RE: Buying used furniture. What is worth it? How do you make it w (Follow-Up #47)

posted by: vasue on 08.22.2014 at 11:57 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Adler isn't a brand with which I'm familiar, either, but then again seldom need to buy upholstered furniture, also going for quality & durability. Casual browsing turns up the faqs page linked. Made in the USA, custom bench-crafted with kiln dried hardwood frames, limited lifetime warranty on frames & springs - sounds good. Call for more details, such as questions about hand-tied coils & leather specifications. They use two kinds of cushion fill around a quality foam core - poly or down & feather wrap. The ones you're considering have the down, the ones illustrated in the models below use the poly wrap for a tight fit. Imagine you could modify the wrap if you prefer the tailored fit. Their price point seems neither inflated nor low-balled. Absolute top notch construction would include details like clips on elastic tucked into corners to attach invisibly to cushions to keep them from shifting, type of leather & finishes like glazes. Find often that higher prices don't necessarily reflect genuinely higher quality. These likely aren't heirloom quality your grandkids will fight over (though could become so if standards continue to deteriorate with throw-away trends), but they appear well made & streets beyond the run of the mill variety. Of all the styles you've shown, these strike me as the most versatile, appropriate in a wide range of settings from traditional to cutting edge. (The velvet pulls at my heartstrings, too, and might find another room for that - nice at the foot of a big bed or tucked in a hallway or landing.) The impression on the left leg looks more like a dimple to me - left from something propped against it. Happens sometimes to my leathers from heavy books left stacked on a cushion. Resolves itself in a few days once the weight is removed. Caused one by leaving a picture frame set against a leg for a week while deciding which painting to hang above the sofa. Used a dry iron set on low with light cardboard between it & the leather to resolve that. (Around here there are people who come to your home to fix glitches in leather furniture, and I'd read up on their techniques.)

The Adler sofas look like their currently available Blakely model in Lyon camel leather. (Under fabric, click the brown square to find the price of $5,500.)
http://www.jonathanadler.com/Custom-Blakeley-Sofa/?cat=991
This model has a wooden plinth base. Looks like the same style on legs in their Topanga model for the same price.
http://www.jonathanadler.com/topanga-sofa/?cat=991

The plinth makes cleaning the floor beneath the sofa easy, but you could replace it with legs or simply add legs as well since the plinth is recessed. Might be fun to put a tailored skirt along the apron in a print - could be easily attached underneath without altering the piece - to match or play off pillows. If you sew, making new cloth cushion covers is the easiest part of redoing a couch, taking a pattern from the existing cushions. The mix & match leather-fabric combination you're considering is fun. You could make fabric cushion covers for the back or seats or both & swap out the cushions themselves to have interchangeable options. Leather pillows against a cloth background or the reverse continue the mix.

Can relate to what may be your wish to give the room feminine touches as the lone girl! I mix lace curtains under pull drapes with leather upholstery & like the gender inclusive balance of both. Thirty feet (10 tall windows & a glass door) in this family room are dressed with machine washable wild birds motif lace hung by rings from a double rod so they can be pushed to the side as needed. Drapes in the same motif fold into the corners & can be pulled out across the windows. (Behind both are pull-down accordion shades for each glass.) The guys nixed florals there, but there are small flowers & berries on the tree branches behind the life-size birds in the print & lace - subtle yet evident. Funny how birds are acceptable as nature-themed - gender neutral - but flowers are girly in the guys' opinion. Sun coming through the lace casts bird shadows into the room, enchanting to me. An example of how I've skirted preferences to please us each & all. Upholstered pieces are mainly leather in this room, with some needlepoint seats.

Long intrigued by examples of stenciled leathers, a tatoo pattern look, if I found these Adler couches, would pick them up to experiment, remake the cushions to pillows or repurpose to headboards. If I actually needed sofas, these would already be in this house or on their way. At this price, they'd at minimum be stand-ins till "perfect" showed up.

Here is a link that might be useful: Adler

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clipped on: 08.22.2014 at 12:15 pm    last updated on: 08.22.2014 at 01:28 pm

RE: Buying used furniture. What is worth it? How do you make it w (Follow-Up #43)

posted by: vasue on 08.21.2014 at 02:55 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

The most timeless, enduring styles would lead me to the two Adler sofas ($100 the pair - great value) and the kilim sofa, all of which should wear like iron & be easily cleaned. (Note the fitted armcovers on the kilim, another sign of quality as the arms are often first to wear.) These are sofas you could literally live on & would fit right in with the colors in the paintings, brick fireplace, wood floors & rug in your photo with the slide. Adult & kid friendly to boot, cozy. Add corner throw pillows to the Adlers & you've got it made.

The rose bouquet Laura Ashely look sofa you love is appealing, but you'd pretty much wind up redoing the room around it rather than slipping it in. Not a particularly durable choice even when scotchguarded, meant for lighter use. Check out her website for shapes that would look good with it. If florals zing your heart, might choose pillows or a throw for the Adlers & kilim.

The green & peach floral set you're mulling over - sort of an all-in-one design combo - strikes me as highly stylized & dramatic. Something for a room used only for company rather than family living. Remember this type of set with walls to match the background of the print or gold foil wallpaper. Looked at the listing & noticed in the gap between the back cushions on the loveseat what seems like dark lining fabric. A top of the line set would use the surface fabric or the same fabric without the print to cover the entire inside back. When you lean back against those cushions, the gap will be apparent.

Something locally available that you can touch, sniff & sit/lay down test would be first in line for me. If it's being offered in a home, is the place well kept? Turn it over & examine it thoroughly. Does it show wear, smell off, feel slightly sticky (home foam cleaners not rinsed well can do that)? Labels should be visible on the decking under the seat cushions. With fabric pieces, look for cushion covers that are reversible & can be zipped off for cleaning & for arm covers, as these two spots get the hardest use. Look for piping or welting edging cushions to stabilize the seams & add a finished edge. Is this something you'd buy off a showroom floor if it was within your price range? In other words, is it well made & do you really, really like it? Can you see yourself happily lounging on it in your home?

For any piece that would need to be shipped, add the cost of that, in addition to its returnability & that added freight if you don't like it in person, along with the seller's reputation.

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clipped on: 08.21.2014 at 03:05 pm    last updated on: 08.21.2014 at 03:05 pm

RE: Is adding roses in the Fall common? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: vasue on 08.20.2014 at 02:26 pm in Roses Forum

Autumn is usually much more stable in the weather department than Spring here, where the early ups-downs of temperature swing wildly. Not uncommon for 90 in early April followed by hard freezes. Soil too wet for planting often problematic for clay-based loam subject to generous rain late Winter & Spring. Early September through mid-October is my favorite planting time for perennials, including roses, to settle in easily. Soil's still warm, nights cool but not frosty & daytime temps mild. Indian Summer can last till Christmas some years, and the cold doesn't usually penetrate the ground till the new year. Need to be good about watering then & in the mild patches of Winter, but planting after the Summer heat passes less stressful on all concerned.

(Does it seem silly to feel new plants arriving in this garden take their cues from those already here? Seldom planting anything not cold-hardier than two zones lower than this & known to appreciate conditions offered, this appears to be the norm in this garden. As if a melody & rhythm already inaudibly playing among the existing plants set a pattern to which newcomers respond in kind...)

Local custom calls for planting bare root roses no later than mid-March in sites prepared the previous Autumn & mulched heavily at that time to protect the soil from freeze-thaw cycles so common in this area of sporadic snow cover, so planting is possible in March. Ideally, the rose should awaken at the proper time without missing a beat. In the main, worked successfully for years until the "new norm" of more volatile weather patterns signalled all bets were off. Took to potting up bare roots & doing the garage protection shuffle before planting out when the weather stabilized. More trouble & expense (fresh potting soil) than preferred, finally unconvinced that the roses transitioned well to garden sites. Though they did relatively well initially protected from yo-yo Spring weather exposure, they often stalled as the heat cranked up in a way the traditional manner sidestepped. Perhaps a potting soil to garden soil transition issue? Yet potted roses bought in season given larger pots & planted out after Summer heat passed did fine, so perhaps a root growth/top growth effect. At any rate, tiring of the early potting method & reluctant to return to iffy weather traditional planting, considering a limited fall bare root inground trial myself.

Over the years, often planted end-of-season potted roses in Autumn with great success, as well as moving & replanting existing roses. (A favorite nursery that carries pansies & mums discounts their 3-gallons in an all-you-can-carry sale for $16. Those still healthy & blooming late prove irresistible at what comes to $4 a rose.) Tried Fall planting a few bare root mail order roses I'd craved that always seemed to be sold out very early or sent in whimpier versions after warmer zones were supplied. Depending on how late in our season they were planted, found those put in halfway through would often leaf out but not show much branch growth, lose their leaves at the usual time & grow strongly in the following season piled with leaves during the cold. Figured the new leaves supplied the roots equal energy as a neutral trade off & the plants' internal clocks synchronized to the shorter day season knew it wasn't time for a growth spurt. Similar reaction as a plant that drops its leaves for other reasons only to regrow them if conditions allow. On this semi-exposed bluff ringed by forest, protect young plants from prevailing Winter winds of drying cold. Grafts planted below soil level in recent years to hedge against Winter loss & in hopes of own rooting. If we could time Fall planting of actually dormant roses just right - when the soil still favors root growth without air temps & sun promoting growth - we might get lucky & come out a season ahead of the game, or not. Wonder if shading a Fall-planted bare root rose or otherwise attempting to foil top growth triggers might help keep it safely asleep...

Are gardeners all gamblers at heart? Try to place & hedge my bets within reason, and safe bets are reassuring. Still mulling this prospect myself, found the linked discussion on point.

Here is a link that might be useful: Fall rose planting discussion

This post was edited by vasue on Wed, Aug 20, 14 at 14:31

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clipped on: 08.20.2014 at 03:03 pm    last updated on: 08.20.2014 at 03:03 pm

RE: Have you ever bought furniture from Tuesday Morning? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: vasue on 08.12.2014 at 02:51 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Another Tuesday Morning fan here. Haven't tried upholstered pieces (small local shop occassionally has chairs), but wouldn't hestitate if I liked something, especially for light duty use. Bought a pair of end tables there 16 years ago that still flank the LR sofa & look like new after all these years & much use. They're lift-top chests on legs, lined with felt with an interior removable tray, covered entirely with leather look (and it may be leather) in a map print on sepia with brass hardware. Snapped them up for $150? pair, thinking they could be replaced down the road if they didn't hold up. Later saw them in a Horchow or Gump's catalogue for $500+ each.

Bought a pair of lamps long time back for the shades. I'd seen the designer shades in lamp shops, and recognized the lamps with those shades were significantly less than the shades alone. Nice lamps, too, which were refitted with plain shades & still in use, as are the shades I bought them for on other lamps.

Then there's the heavy-duty 150' hose reel on wheels in a fancy cast iron design picked up years ago for $85 when plastic box versions were priced nearly that much. Still in daily use & left out year-round, did reoil the wooden handle some time back, but other than that it looks new, too. Frontgate sells a similar reel in aluminum for $350 minus the wheels.

Long way round of echoing others' understanding that their wares are closeouts, overstocks, discontinueds & previous season stuff at heavy discount for the quality. You're so considerate to be thinking of your MIL's comfort! If you like the chairs & think they'll work, try them out - they've a great return policy at least 60 if not 90 days. You may find you're still using them years later, too.

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clipped on: 08.12.2014 at 02:54 pm    last updated on: 08.12.2014 at 02:54 pm

RE: Laguna vs Rosarium Uertesen (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: vasue on 08.11.2014 at 07:01 pm in Roses Forum

Big fan of RU & its exuberant personality. The very distinct blooms resemble oversized carnations or zinnias, open coral pink with lighter reverse & fade to salmon pink in this climate, showing a variety of tints within the same colorway. Healthy no spray & generous with bloom, it's a happy rose for me. Grew it in another garden years ago, missed it since & brought in two to grace this garden - ownroot from Chamblees.

Met Laguna in person & wasn't as taken with it as I'd expected. Those examples were raspberry pink with definite lavender undertones, which wouldn't harmonize well with many of the saturated pastels I prefer. Realize color varies with locale, soil, weather & more, just didn't make my heart beat faster.

Rosarium's blooms are larger than Lagunas by an inch or more, and RU is rated to 4b while Laguna's rating is 5b.

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clipped on: 08.11.2014 at 08:02 pm    last updated on: 08.11.2014 at 08:02 pm

RE: Does Limelight live up to its Advertising? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: vasue on 07.24.2014 at 04:22 pm in Hydrangea Forum

Jess, did you buy your plants in bud & bloom? Saw Limelights for sale here 2-3 months ago already coming into bloom ahead of their natural bloom season, probably greenhouse grown & possibly forced into bloom. If yours fall into this category, their blossoms will turn color earlier than otherwise, having begun earlier than they would in your garden.

Indeed, no changing them backwards in their progression. Next year you can expect normal bloomtimes & color changes later in the season.

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clipped on: 07.24.2014 at 04:23 pm    last updated on: 07.24.2014 at 04:23 pm

RE: Blushing Bride does not blush (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: vasue on 07.24.2014 at 03:55 pm in Hydrangea Forum

Sunnytop, it's possible your liberal use of sulfur is the culprit. Blushing Bride showed the pink tint in its first two years in your alkaline soil. Have you been using sulfur since it was first planted? Sulfur atop the soil can take a good while to affect the soil pH, as long as two years, at the depth of the rootball.

Blushing Bride is a controlled cross between Veitchii & Endless Summer. Veitchii is a white lacecap known to turn rose-pink in Autumn. Endless Summer's color of blue or pink is pH dependent. Wilkerson Mills, among others, notes that Blushing Bride will blush pink or blue according to soil pH - link below.

I'm guessing your sweet alkaline soil gave you the pink tints you like until it shifted with your use of sulfur. Stop the sulfur & the soil will revert to its alkaline nature, likely returning your Blushing Bride's blooms to their original expression in your garden. You might speed up this process with soil treatments used for alkalizing acidic soil - you'd have to research that.

Hydrangeas grow well in sweet soil. Believe its probably the acidic treatment that's muddled the colors of your Blushing Bride.

Here is a link that might be useful: Blushing Bride

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clipped on: 07.24.2014 at 04:01 pm    last updated on: 07.24.2014 at 04:01 pm

RE: ants in potted roses (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: vasue on 07.24.2014 at 02:46 pm in Roses Forum

Since keeping them out is easier than getting them out, needed a new method after ants found their way past the typical clay shards. Began using landscape fabric cut to fit the inside bottom of pots to cover drainholes & haven't found ants taking up residence since. Plants still in the pots they came in get a piece of landscape fabric rubberbanded around their bottoms till repotted or planted. Those arriving in decorative planters get a mat of the fabric beneath them. Not having used landscape rolls for their original purpose, still find them handy for other garden uses.

Cinnamon sticks - ingenious - thanks for the tip!

Here is a link that might be useful: Ants!

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clipped on: 07.24.2014 at 02:52 pm    last updated on: 07.24.2014 at 02:52 pm

RE: grow bags in pots? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: tapla on 03.03.2014 at 07:24 am in Container Gardening Forum

Your choice of soil will determine whether or not your plant is over-potted. It doesn't matter what you use for a soil, as long as you can water correctly w/o having to worry about the soil remaining soggy for so long it causes root rot or impairs root function due to lack of O2 in the root zone.

Read these for a better idea of what I'm talking about:

Not long ago, on another forum, I wrote the following because someone had asked if a particular soil was a 'good' choice. Rather than simply give him a 'yes or no' answer, I decided to go into enough detail that it would allow HIM to decide, instead of me, or others. It also offers something unique in that it illustrates there are two ways to look at soil choice. It meshes very nicely with the theme of this thread, so hopefully you will find it of interest.

Is Soil X a 'Good' Soil?

I think any discussion on this topic must largely center around the word "GOOD", and we can broaden the term 'good' so it also includes 'quality' or 'suitable', as in "Is soil X a quality or suitable soil?"

How do we determine if soil A or soil B is a good soil? and before we do that, we'd better decide if we are going to look at it from the plant's perspective or from the grower's perspective, because often there is a considerable amount of conflict to be found in the overlap - so much so that one can often be mutually exclusive of the other.

We can imagine that grower A might not be happy or satisfied unless knows he is squeezing every bit of potential from his plants, and grower Z might not be happy or content unless he can water his plants before leaving on a 2-week jaunt, and still have a weeks worth of not having to water when he returns. Everyone else is somewhere between A and Z; with B, D, F, H, J, L, N, P, R, T, V, X, and Y either classically ignorant (it just means they're not aware there is a difference) or they understand but don't care.

I said all that to illustrate the large measure of futility in trying to establish any sort of standard as to what makes a good soil from the individual grower's perspective; but let's change our focus from the pointless to the possible.

We're only interested in the comparative degrees of 'good' and 'better' here. It would be presumptive to label any soil "best". 'Best I've found' or 'best I've used' CAN sometimes be useful for comparative purposes, but that's a very subjective judgment. Let's tackle 'good', then move on to 'better', and finally see what we can do about qualifying these descriptors so they can apply to all growers.

I would like to think that everyone would prefer to use a soil that can be described as 'good' from the plant's perspective. How do we determine what a plant wants? Surprisingly, we can use %s established by truly scientific studies that are widely accepted in the greenhouse and nursery trades to determine if a soil is good or not good - from the plant's perspective, that is. Rather than use confusing numbers that mean nothing to the hobby grower, I can suggest that our standard for a good soil should be, at a minimum, that you can water that soil properly. That means, that at any time during the growth cycle, you can water your plantings to beyond the point of saturation (so excess water is draining from the pot) without the fear of root rot or compromised root function or metabolism due to (take your pick) too much water or too little air in the root zone.

I think it's very reasonable to withhold the comparative basic descriptor, 'GOOD', from soils that can't be watered properly without compromising root function, or worse, suffering one of the fungaluglies that cause root rot. I also think anyone wishing to make the case from the plant's perspective that a soil that can't be watered to beyond saturation w/o compromising root health can be called 'good', is fighting on the UP side logic hill.

So I contend that 'good' soils are soils we can water correctly; that is, we can flush the soil when we water without concern for compromising root health/function/metabolism. If you ask yourself, "Can I water correctly if I use this soil?" and the answer is 'NO' ... it's not a good soil ... for the reasons stated above.

Can you water correctly using most of the bagged soils readily available? 'NO', I don't think I need to point to a conclusion.

What about 'BETTER'? Can we determine what might make a better soil? Yes, we can. If we start with a soil that meets the minimum standard of 'good', and improve either the physical and/or chemical properties of that soil, or make it last longer, then we have 'better'. Even if we cannot agree on how low we wish to set the bar for what constitutes 'good', we should be able to agree that any soil that reduces excess water retention, increases aeration, ensures increased potential for optimal root health, and lasts longer than soils that only meet some one's individual and arbitrary standard of 'good', is a 'better' soil.

All the plants we grow, unless grown from seed, have the genetic potential to be beautiful specimens. It's easy to say, and easy to see the absolute truth in the idea that if you give a plant everything it wants it will flourish and grow; after all, plants are programmed to grow just that way. Our growing skills are defined by our ability to give plants what they want. The better we are at it, the better our plants will grow. But we all know it's not that easy. Lifetimes are spent in careful study, trying to determine just exactly what it is that plants want and need to make them grow best.

Since this is a soil discussion, let's see what the plant wants from its soil. The plant wants a soil in which we have endeavored to provide in available form, all the essential nutrients, in the ratio in at which the plant uses them, and at a concentration high enough to prevent deficiencies yet low enough to make it easy to take up water (and the nutrients dissolved in the water). First and foremost, though, the plant wants a container soil that is evenly damp, never wet or soggy. Giving a plant what it wants, to flourish and grow, doesn't include a soil that is half saturated for a week before aeration returns to the entire soil mass, even if you only water in small sips. Plants might do 'ok' in some soils, but to actually flourish, like they are genetically programmed to do, they would need to be unencumbered by wet, soggy soils.

We become better growers by improving our ability to reduce the effects of limiting factors, or by eliminating those limiting factors entirely; in other words, by clearing out those influences that stand in the way of the plant reaching its genetic potential. Even if we are able to make every other factor that influences plant growth/vitality absolutely perfect, it could not make up for a substandard soil. For a plant to grow to its genetic potential, every factor has to be perfect, including the soil. Of course, we'll never manage to get to that point, but the good news is that as we get closer and closer, our plants get better and better; and hopefully, we'll get more from our growing experience.

In my travels, I've discovered it almost always ends up being that one little factor that we willingly or unwittingly overlooked that limits us in our abilities, and our plants in their potential.
Food for thought:

A 2-bit plant in a $10 soil has a future full of potential, where a $10 plant in a 2-bit soil has a future filled only with limitations. ~ Al

*******************************************************************

Choosing an Appropriate Size Container

How large a container ‘can’ or ‘should’ be, depends on the relationship between the mass of the plant material you are working with and your choice of soil. We often concern ourselves with "over-potting" (using a container that is too large), but "over-potting" is a term that arises from a lack of a basic understanding about the relationship we will look at, which logically determines appropriate container size.
It's often parroted that you should only move up one container size when "potting-up". The reasoning is, that when potting up to a container more than one size larger, the soil will remain wet too long and cause root rot issues, but it is the size/mass of the plant material you are working with, and the physical properties of the soil you choose that determines both the upper & lower limits of appropriate container size - not a formulaic upward progression of container sizes. In many cases, after root pruning a plant, it may even be appropriate to step down a container size or two, but as you will see, that also depends on the physical properties of the soil you choose.
Plants grown in ‘slow’ (slow-draining/water-retentive) soils need to be grown in containers with smaller soil volumes so that the plant can use water quickly, allowing air to return to the soil before root issues beyond impaired root function/metabolism become a limiting factor. We know that the anaerobic (airless) conditions that accompany soggy soils quickly kill fine roots and impair root function/metabolism. We also know smaller soil volumes and the root constriction that accompany them cause plants to both extend branches and gain o/a mass much more slowly - a bane if rapid growth is the goal - a boon if growth restriction and a compact plant are what you have your sights set on.
Conversely, rampant growth can be had by growing in very large containers and in very fast soils where frequent watering and fertilizing is required - so it's not that plants rebel at being potted into very large containers per se, but rather, they rebel at being potted into very large containers with a soil that is too slow and water-retentive. This is a key point.
We know that there is an inverse relationship between soil particle size and the height of the perched water table (PWT) in containers. As particle size increases, the height of the PWT decreases, until at about a particle size of just under 1/8 inch, soils will no longer hold perched water. If there is no perched water, the soil is ALWAYS well aerated, even when the soil is at container capacity (fully saturated).
So, if you aim for a soil (like the gritty mix) composed primarily of particles larger than 1/16", there is no upper limit to container size, other than what you can practically manage. The lower size limit will be determined by the soil volume's ability to allow room for roots to ’run’ and to furnish water enough to sustain the plant between irrigations. Bearing heavily on this ability is the ratio of fine roots to coarse roots. It takes a minimum amount of fine rootage to support the canopy under high water demand. If the container is full of large roots, there may not be room for a sufficient volume of the fine roots that do all the water/nutrient delivery work and the coarse roots, too. You can grow a very large plant in a very small container if the roots have been well managed and the lion's share of the rootage is fine. You can also grow very small plants, even seedlings, in very large containers if the soil is fast (free-draining and well-aerated) enough that the soil holds no, or very little perched water.

I have just offered clear illustration that the oft repeated advice to ‘only pot up one size at a time’, only applies when using heavy, water-retentive soils. Those using well-aerated soils are not bound by the same restrictions.

Al

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clipped on: 07.23.2014 at 07:45 am    last updated on: 07.23.2014 at 07:45 am

RE: Looking for discount rose containers (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: vasue on 07.17.2014 at 06:06 pm in Roses Forum

Seil, that's an ingenious solution! Some jumbo pots here had to be tilted on a lower rim & rolled a short way before reversing - crabwalked - laboriously to clear & wash the walkway. Others require two people & a lot of mumbling & stumbling to move. Found a PotLifter a few years back that's made moving the pots (and many other things) relatively easy, even with the straight-sided, square & odd ones. A square of outdoor plywood beneath especially slick (like glass) or stuff with uneven bottoms, like shrubs being moved, makes those easy with this, too. With all your pots, might be worth a look. Link below for the reviews.

Here is a link that might be useful: PotLifter

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clipped on: 07.17.2014 at 06:26 pm    last updated on: 07.17.2014 at 06:27 pm

RE: recomendation for a rose (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: vasue on 07.17.2014 at 05:23 pm in Roses Forum

Jasminerose, double thanks for the great link to Tom Carruth's presentation & the reminder of Jardins de Bagatelle! Delicious in every way, grew it in the late 80's in a colder more exposed garden where it succumbed to cold. Thinking this garden would be more hospitable, would happily welcome it and again inhale that heavenly perfume.

Here is a link that might be useful: Jardins de Bagatelle

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clipped on: 07.17.2014 at 05:38 pm    last updated on: 07.17.2014 at 05:38 pm

RE: Looking for discount rose containers (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: vasue on 07.17.2014 at 05:01 pm in Roses Forum

Many local nurseries will have stacks of used empty nursery pots out in the back by their property line, especially if they do plant installation. Often can be bought very cheaply.

Great leads here & find the washing machine tub very creative & inspirational!

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clipped on: 07.17.2014 at 05:03 pm    last updated on: 07.17.2014 at 05:03 pm

RE: double knockout rose in container on hot patio..ugggh (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: vasue on 07.17.2014 at 12:24 pm in Roses Forum

Jacklyn, the pot feet are great for stationary pots/planters & can be inconspicuous or decorative. Link below shows some examples - the figural feet come in many varieties - as well as low plant stands which are like trivets for flowerpots. Most of mine are what they're calling the "Victorian" shape but have a fired-on glaze, which further protects them from freezing. (If the feet are used to protect the pot bottom from freezing to a surface, you don't want the feet themselves freezing & cracking or the pot falls over, canceling out the whole point of their use!) Have some of the bird ones from a sale, but they're replaced as the temp chills with the glazed for Winter. Only 3 are needed but 4 are sturdier. Local Lowes carries the whitewash glazed & plain with their outdoor pot display, usually in a small cardboard box on the shelf near the terra cotta & ceramic pots. Some of the neighboring nurseries carry the more decorative ones at prices equivalent to what the market will bear, and a slew of designs available online.

Your boyfriend reminds me of my husband - just never know what he'll happen upon on sale & bring home! Must admit, his back-ups of certain items have come in remarkably handy over the years...

Here is a link that might be useful: Examples of pot feet

This post was edited by vasue on Thu, Jul 17, 14 at 12:29

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clipped on: 07.17.2014 at 12:36 pm    last updated on: 07.17.2014 at 12:36 pm

RE: sale (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: vasue on 07.17.2014 at 10:18 am in Hydrangea Forum

Congrats on your great score & thanks for the tip! Will include a stop on the errands circuit today at the local Walmart's small garden department. As long as the spare cash holds out, I'm a sucker for near-give-away sales on the rebloomers, too. Heartbeat speeds up while "resistance is futile" whispers in the mind & automatic pilot takes over. Happy conundrum of where to plant, and there's always pots!

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clipped on: 07.17.2014 at 10:19 am    last updated on: 07.17.2014 at 10:19 am

RE: double knockout rose in container on hot patio..ugggh (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: vasue on 07.16.2014 at 04:14 pm in Roses Forum

A 15-gallon pot is likely to be 18" across & nearly as high. If concerned about water stains from a pot standing on deck or balcony, you might pick up pot feet as an alternative to a wheeled dolley. They fit under the bottom rim to raise the pot, run a couple of dollars each & you'd need four for a pot that size. Usually found with the pots outside, as they also keep a pot from freezing to a bottom surface & cracking. Often use them & just slide a saucer beneath for water to drain to which can be emptied & removed in between waterings. Might consider using a few inches of mulch atop the soil to keep it cooler & delay moisture evaporation (kept from touching the stems) & pine straw for that is fine. Also keeps soil from splashing out in watering or rain.

The potting mix you used contains slow-release fertilizer, but as others have noted, you'll need quick-release fertilizer for pots as well. The rule of thumb is "weakly, weekly" meaning fertilizer diluted in water at 1/4 the concentration on the bottle for monthly feeding, given weekly by pouring on soil already moist. Some of the fertilizers are very salty & can build up a residue on top of the soil & interior of the pot. Prefer fish emulsion myself.

What a romantic gesture from your boyfriend! Sounds like he's a keeper, just like your rose...

Here is a link that might be useful: General soil capacity pot sizes

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clipped on: 07.16.2014 at 04:17 pm    last updated on: 07.16.2014 at 04:17 pm

New Reveal (long) - Garage into Kitchen!

posted by: Lauraeds on 07.07.2014 at 04:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hey all !

I finally managed to get photos taken of our new kitchen, which was finished just a few weeks ago. GW was a huge help ... I poured over post after post, gleaning info from everyone and really refining my vision.

It's a white, shaker-style kitchen, something I've always wanted after loving a previous deep wood/dark counters galley kitchen (old house), and after not-loving what this kitchen was (small, piecemealed, and grungy!)

The house is a beautiful old brick home from 1930, and the new kitchen is the old garage, which was attached on the western end of the home. Since we had to raise the floor (to meet up with the elevation of the rest of the home), we decided to blow out the two small rooms that were above the old garage, and take advantage of all the natural light provided through dormers, existing windows, and new windows and doors. This new kitchen has become the main "family entrance" to the house.

The old kitchen was the next room over, which you'll see now is much better suited with a pantry, office, and the three doorways and two stairways that mucked it up before!

Obviously, it's still a work in progress ... the walls seem big and bare now, but I'm waiting for just the right things to display. The barstools need to be recovered, and you'll notice a small loveseat with some "placeholder" fabric draped over it!

 photo 2014-07-07003414aaa_zpsf986fbf6.jpg
In hopes of orienting you, here I am standing in the old kitchen, looking into the new kitchen (old garage). The bay of windows over the sink is where the old garage carriage doors were. They were great old wood on hinges … we repurposed them into a cool fence on the far side of a new garage.

 photo 2014-07-07001959a_zps71bcec65.jpg
Here we are looking out the front of the house. The two windows were original to the house (garage). Since we had to raise the floor significantly, they dip back behind the counter. I was certain I would drop things back there, but nothing so far (just dust!)

 photo 2014-07-07001530a_zps8855e4ea.jpg
The cedar beams appear much more reddish in color in this photo than in real life. Since we removed the second story (which contained 2 old-school servant bedrooms, more recently a tiny office and defunct playroom), we needed the support of steel plates and big beams to keep the house together!

 photo 2014-07-07001848aa_zps2673987e.jpg

 photo 2014-07-07001806a_zpsd77ea231.jpg
These gorgeous doors (bad photo, sorry), open back on themselves, creating a huge view out the back. We keep them secured, and just use the one on the right as our main entrance into the house from the garage and the backyard. It's a dream, in terms of traffic flow!

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Here I am standing further back in the old kitchen. The door on the left is small stairs leading to the basement, and used to be the only access to the old garage, which was three steps down. We blew the wall open to create the open flow you see.
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Here is our "mudroom" of sorts … a locker for each person. It's more than enough space for coats, backpacks, shoes, devices (plugs for everyone!), and now I'm just trying to train everyone to use them!!!

The lattice panel is hiding a mini-split HVAC system. Since this area has such different heat/cooling needs, which thought this to be the best bet. It's worked well so far, and there is a small quiet compresser out back.

Above that, you'll see a small glass rail and balcony …. it's the old entrance to the upstairs hallway that lead to the small rooms we removed. Again, the finish isn't quite so red IRL.

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View from the overlook.

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Prep sink

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A handy extra gleaned from GW. I suppose I should paint or finish it somehow!

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This is the old kitchen. Next to the desk is a fabulous pantry … I will show it off soon, I hope … it's a big, huge mess right now!

Thanks for reading and looking, and thanks for the advice given over the past 2 years!

DETAILS:

Cabinets: Custom Shaker, locally made. Ben Moore White Dove.

Pulls: Lewis Dolan, Lews Hardware Bar Pull Collection, Bar Knob in Brushed Brass, myknobs.com

Counter: White Moon Quartzite, honed, pencil round edge

Prep Sink: Kohler Napa Single Basin Cast Iron Bar Sink - White

Kitchen Sink: Kohler Riverby 33" Single Basin Under-Mount Enameled Cast-Iron ��" White

Prep & Kitchen Faucets: Delta Trinsic Pullout Spray Bar/Prep -Champagne Bronze
Floors: Oak 4” planks, custom stained to match existing floors in house

Island Pendants: Circa Lighting, Hicks Pendant Extra Large, Hand rubbed brass, Custom Length Added.

Above-window Sconces: Schoolhouse Electric, Isaac Sconce Long Arm, Brass

Between-window Sconces: Restoration Hardware, Library Sconce, Antique Brass

Range: GE Monogram, 48” dual-fuel with griddle and double ovens

Hood: Custom Cabinetry, GE Monogram 48” Insert

Refrigerator: GE Monogram, 36” Professional Built-In Bottom Freezer. Custom panel made.

Dishwasher: Existing Bosch

Microwave: Existing GE Profile

Bev Fridge: GE Monogram Stainless Steel Beverage Center

Walls: Ben Moore CSP 665 Cool Breeze In various degrees: 25% on walls, 75% and 100% on the ceiling/dormers

Cabinet & Desk Back Walls: BenMoore Slate Teal 2058-20

Range Backsplash Tile: Walker Zanger Studio Moderne, Petite Imperial, Ming Blue Gloss

Glass folding doors and over-sink windows: custom made, painted Benjamin Moore Wrought Iron, 2124-10

Here is a link that might be useful: The full kitchen revealed - more photos

This post was edited by Lauraeds on Mon, Jul 7, 14 at 18:19

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clipped on: 07.16.2014 at 01:43 pm    last updated on: 07.16.2014 at 01:43 pm

RE: Fire Light hydrangea (paniculata) (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: vasue on 07.16.2014 at 10:58 am in Hydrangea Forum

Seems to be a new introduction this year, which may explain the lack of replies to your post. Turned up on my radar, too, but have yet to meet one in person. Liking the touted characteristics of early panicles on upright stems that arch without flopping while bearing full-sized blooms on a compact shrub of 7x7'. Red stems would add Winter interest - added plus for 4-season presence.

Still no paniculatas in this garden (though plenty of Annabelles in the neighborhood grown into tree form), been watching the recent candidates & feeback reports with high interest. If I'd been in your shoes, believe Fire Light would have come home with me!

Just to confuse the issue, Fire Light is sometimes condensed to Firelight & there's a mac mophead of the same name long in commerce. Searching Hydrangea paniculata Fire Light or Firelight doesn't turn up much info as yet. Pretty much the standard publicity releases from Proven Winners, with a few other merchandisers' sites providing more detail. Appears the registration name is SMHPFL.

Here is a link that might be useful: Fire Light

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RE: Fantasia (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: vasue on 07.13.2014 at 01:40 pm in Hydrangea Forum

Macgyver, you saw one in blue - so there goes that "stays-pink" hope out the window. Just turned up this Van Klaveren Netherland's site mentioning pink/blue, along with the "possibility to make it blue" & photos of both. Need to rethink intended placement in this acidic soil, since the blue version would not appeal next to existing blues. Overdue shifting them to larger pots, may up the proportion of garden soil to the planting mix & observe the coloring of next year's blooms before reconsidering where to site them.

From your experience, Springwood, may be best to leave them in larger pots placed in the garage this coming Winter, plant out next Spring & plan for cold weather protection in future years. Thank you both for your observations - much appreciated!

Here is a link that might be useful: Fantasia

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RE: identifying old rose (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: vasue on 07.11.2014 at 01:44 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Lovely rose you're trying to name! You might search at the link below. Click the pointer next to the "year" box for a dropdown menu of each year.

Here is a link that might be useful: Help Me Find by Year of Introduction

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RE: Resurrection (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: anntn6b on 07.11.2014 at 12:30 pm in Antique Roses Forum

We NEVER get all the roots of the big ones. Ever.

Those pesky voles can sever roots. Or parts of the roots can just be weakened.

Remember that the way leaf axils have undifferentiated meristemic tissues? So do roots, where the root hairs emerge.

The fellow who founded the OGR nursery up in New Brunswick Canada (and who doesn't ship to the USA) at one time did all his propagating from cut up slightly woody roots. Who'da thunk it would work so well?

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RE: Is this a location issue? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: vasue on 07.11.2014 at 12:38 pm in Roses Forum

As always, Kim generously shares expert advice. Just to say GC does well here & wondering what else may be going on in your garden. You don't mention the amount of sun your GC receives - could lack of sun exposure be a factor in GC's health & be keeping that area more damp? Do you have a mulch there holding too much water itself? How do you provide watering - sprinklers, drip, by hand, on what schedule & time of day or evening? If mechanically, could there be a malfunction? Any dips in the lawn or bed, gutters or downspouts slanting more moisture towards the rose? Is the area getting too much water? Is the rose itself getting too much or not enough? Any underplantings holding & releasing moisture? Any of these & more could impact the individual situation & immune resistance of your rose negatively, attracting bugs & disease.

Thinking over any contributing factors may help you rearrange & solve your puzzle. You might try a diluted seaweed spray foliar & root feeding to help boost CG's health. Consider temporarily removing any mulch & later replacing it with fresh, as it may be saturated with spores.

This garden is likely as humid as yours - seldom under 75% & usually closer to 95% in Summer, with frequent rainstorms. The CG here grows in a mixed perennial bed in an ESE exposure 8' out from the front porch. Gets 7-8 hours of sun from midmorning to late afternoon, in clay-based loam amended with gypsum & compost years ago & topped yearly with compost in Spring & oak leaf mulch in Fall. Compost doesn't touch the stems & mulch stops 8-10" inches from them untl dormant in cold. Believe these conditions contribute to GC's good health these last 9 years with no antifungal treatments.

Troubleshooting is usually tough but necessary. Was your rose doing better till recently? If so, what's changed? Small changes often have big impacts. Put on your detective hat...

This post was edited by vasue on Fri, Jul 11, 14 at 12:42

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clipped on: 07.11.2014 at 12:56 pm    last updated on: 07.11.2014 at 12:56 pm

I can't believe this worked!!!

posted by: Nippstress on 07.10.2014 at 08:36 pm in Roses Forum

Hi folks

Earlier in the spring, a week or two after I'd planted my band of the HT Butterscotch, I was noodling around in the garden and stepped on the poor thing. Broke it off right at the base of the soil, with nothing left of the cane and precious little root system established yet. Well, I figured it was a goner, and stepping on things is something I consider one of those acceptable but highly regrettable mistakes, given how close I plant everything.

Still, after muttering some choice language at myself, I looked at the little green sprig in my hand and figured I had nothing to lose, so I stuck the remaining plant top into the ground about 2" deep next to the (presumed) root system. That left only about 2" above ground, so I was expecting to see a relatively fast death of the plant, kind of like sticking a florist rose stem directly in the ground and hoping for the best.

To my surprise, the little squirt hung in there. For a while, it just sat there not dying, and I figured the moisture in the soil was maintaining the green of the plant but it would eventually be toast. Just this week, though, I saw the sprig putting on new leaves! Against all odds, it seems to have put down roots from the base of that tiny stem (no wider than a bamboo skewer) and decided to survive. It wouldn't be that phantom growth you get in early spring from canes that will eventually die, since there's not enough stored energy in the top 2" of the plant to support that kind of growth. Go figure, eh?

I think the reason this sprig survived and other attempts to resurrect severed bits or canes of roses have failed for me, is that it was split from the base of the plant and had some active growing points already at the base of the cane. I've never had any luck with pinching off a few inches of the tip of any other rose and getting it to grow, and I suspect there's something different about the growth "instructions" at the base of a new basal break - or in this case, the only existing cane. You'll all enlighten me if I'm wrong, of course, but I'm now resolved to try sticking more canes back in the ground, particularly the ones that have fallen prostrate on the ground from our very wet weather and separated from more established canes at the soil lines. Should be the same principle, I think.

Anyway, I'm thrilled to recover from at least one mistake this spring (OTOH, no survivors yet from the alfalfa "mistake" I posted about earlier). I realize that this is my third and probably last try to overwinter Butterscotch in my zone and it has a rather slim shot at overwintering even in my warmest most protected bed, but it's nice to see it showing some gumption at least this summer, and maybe a little hardship now will boost its immune system to the winter cold.

Here's the little survivor...yay!!

Cynthia

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RE: Another Mystery striped rose - need ID (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: vasue on 07.11.2014 at 11:03 am in Roses Forum

First reminded me of Fourth of July, which I've seen in person but not grown. But that's supposed to be thorny so you wouldn't have planted that there. Perhaps your roses dropped a fertile hip that's a cross of ones you grow? Pretty!

Here is a link that might be useful: Fourth of July

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RE: Do Hydrangeas only bloom on old growth, not new? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: vasue on 07.11.2014 at 10:27 am in Hydrangea Forum

After this last Winter caused the same setback you're seeing - hydrangeas that bloom on old wood that suffered dieback won't bloom this year - many of us are looking at the "reblooming" macrophylla (mophead) & serrata (lacecap) with renewed interest. As Springwood says, most of the mopheads & serratas bloom on "old" wood - stems that are at least a year old.These set buds mid-Summer to Fall (depending on your zone & local weather) that bloom the following year. Buds can be killed by cold, as can entire branches.

Those that bloom on "new" wood - branches that grow in the current season - bypass the setback old wood bloomers can encounter. "Reblooming" varieties can bloom on last year's old wood AND this year's new branches. If the old wood buds are killed, new wood will still bloom if your growing season is long enough.

Some are calling those that bloom only on new wood "rebloomers" if new branches grow additional stems that bloom later. The fine line between "rebloom" and "extended bloom" can become confusing. If you want mopheads & lacecaps that can bloom early in the Summer on old wood & later in the season on new wood - so you will have at least one set of blooms every year - look for varieties with info about blooming on old & new wood.

Many new varieties have been & are being introduced to market in recent years. A good bit of discussion here reviews introducers' claims and personal experiences growing them in our gardens.

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RE: Echibeckia Summerina 'Orange' (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: vasue on 07.11.2014 at 08:59 am in Perennials Forum

The Echebeckia looks so intriguing! Keep us posted on its quirks & performance. Another Veronica fan here & like Icicle as much as Red Fox - pretty together, too. Sounds like you enjoyed a pleasant day hunting & gathering an interesting assortment. Well done & thanks for sharing!

Two-for-one sale starts today at a favorite local nursery where gallons are the smallest sizes. Really need to weed today, but the siren sale song is calling to me...

Here is a link that might be useful: Icicle

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RE: Should I cut the flowers off (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: vasue on 07.11.2014 at 08:37 am in Perennials Forum

Coral Reef acts the same as Cecily's Raspberry Wine here. Bees still visit the spent flowers after the petals fall, so usually don't deadhead, and doesn't seem to slow down blooming. Consider it optional & the spent heads are still decorative. Finches love the seeds & I love watching their swaying sideways antics, so no seedlings in the several years it's been here. Looks like yours is sending up new buds, Sparky. Remember the variety? Totally agree with LOTS of water even in this muggy climate, to sidestep mildew & stimulate growth & flowering.

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clipped on: 07.11.2014 at 08:38 am    last updated on: 07.11.2014 at 08:39 am

RE: making big stone steps (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: elementalstone (Guest) on 03.07.2008 at 07:49 pm in Gardening with Stone Forum

Hi Stevedoug-
I am a stone mason just over in Asheville. It's always best to start steps at the bottom of your slope, as you get toward the top you can always choose the next stones you use to meet the final grade. You can also rent a transit at your local equipment rental and that will help you determine the exact hight you need to reach. I always dig a base below the frost line, around here it's around 6-8". Next put down a layer of small gravel on your subsoil, make sure you have hit packed clay. You can adjust the level of your step by adding or removing gravel. Give your steps a very slight downward pitch, this will keep water from collecting on them. Then just work your way up, packing gravel around the edges of the stones as you go. You can also over lap the front edge of the upper stone with the back edge of the bottom stone to provide greater stability. Good luck!

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clipped on: 07.10.2014 at 01:28 pm    last updated on: 07.10.2014 at 01:28 pm

colorful brick path

posted by: purplemoon on 06.10.2009 at 02:23 am in Garden Junk Forum

I found this picture while 'browsing' during another sleepless night, LOL. How cool is this!
Sidewalk CHALK was used. (no info, but I would presume it was sealed to stay this way.)

hugs, Karen

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RE: Ticks (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: plays_in_dirt_dirt on 04.04.2014 at 09:01 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

Here's my approach to tick bites:

Spray the tick with aerosol athlete's foot spray. The cheapest brand works fine. This will kill the tick, causing it to release and allowing you to remove it 100% intact (no imbedded head in your flesh).

Put a small dab of toothpaste on the bite area and you will have no itch.

Trust me, it works.

Barbara in Southern Virginia (bordering North Carolina)

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RE: A Few Pics From Today (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: flower-frenzy on 06.12.2014 at 07:26 pm in Heuchera Forum

Heucherella 'Buttered Rum' is another one for great color. I also like the shape of the leaves. Kind of remind me of maple leaves.

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clipped on: 07.10.2014 at 11:25 am    last updated on: 07.10.2014 at 11:25 am

RE: Climber not producing ANY blooms (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: vasue on 07.09.2014 at 05:03 pm in Antique Roses Forum

A pair of these new here this year, bought as 3-gallon pots in bud about 3 months ago. Still in their pots (need to shift the end plants of a hedge for room to plant them on an existing arch), they've put on 2' of height, additional basals & several laterals though the plants are highly upright. They were 5x2' at purchase, now 7x4', and are just finishing their third bloom cycle. Most of the blooms have appeared in sprays on the top third of branches, but lower laterals blooming this last time. In an ESE exposure, they get 7-8 hours of full sun beginning around 10am. Haven't done anything but water well daily & deadhead snap the spent flowers so far. No fertilizer, no spray & no problems. Daytime temps ranging from 50-98F. Will repot soon if I don't get to the hedge bit first. Really appreciating these so far for their vigor, health & fragrant bloom.

Since you got yours direct from Kordes, have you contacted them for advice? Any chance of a mix-up in the rose sent not being Golden Gate? Still, any rose could be expected to bloom by now in good conditions. Is yours getting enough sun & water to bloom? Might try a foliar feed of seaweed, which often stimulates reluctant roses here to come into bloom...


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RE: Julio Iglesias at Home Depot (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: vasue on 07.09.2014 at 02:23 pm in Roses Forum

Surprisingly, found pairs of Kordes' Golden Gate climbers & Belinda's Dream shrubs at Lowes this Spring. Much greater variety than in recent years. They were offering truckloads of floribundas & hybrid teas at intervals, mostly out of patent classics but some newer patented ones as well. By this time of year, rose deliveries mostly over (sigh). Still check them out any time I'm in town, hoping they'll happily surprise again.

Looking for a replacement Fragrant Cloud this year, a couple of nurseries carried poor & neglected choices. Stopped at Lowes & came away with a great specimen, as well as one of the Smooth Touch roses (Smooth Angel) for a high-traffic spot on the back deck. Very pleased with this year's roses from Lowes. Golden Celebration came from there years ago before local nurseries offered it & continues to excel.

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clipped on: 07.09.2014 at 02:30 pm    last updated on: 07.09.2014 at 02:30 pm

RE: Need advice on transplanting My Girl (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: vasue on 07.09.2014 at 01:34 pm in Roses Forum

A rose 7' tall will fit lying on its side. The cargo bed of my old Suburban is 4x8', with another 2' of narrow width going forward across the dashboard. Often transport plants that way. Confine the soil in the pot by slipping it into a shopping or trash bag & tying or taping it closed. If you can cinch in the branches, it will be easier to handle & protect them. This can be done with twine, an old sheet torn into long pieces, burlap, bubblewrap, trashbags cut down the sides, landcape fabric, household plastic wrap - whatever you have on hand that can be used to wrap the branches & be tied or taped closed. Think of the way Christmas trees' branches are tied when shipped to get a picture. Or you can stand the pot in the middle of an old sheet & pull opposite corners of the sheet to the top of the plant, tie or clip & repeat on the next set of corners. You can bundle with twine or masking tape or bungee cords or whatever over the sheet. You don't need to do this, but it helps limit any breakage by compacting a plant this way. You can use a box instead if you have one the right size to accomplish the same thing. You may have to slit the box down two or four sides to put in the plant, brace the pot itself in the bottom & tape the sides closed. Newspaper wadded around the plant in the box can help pad the branches.

If you've bundled the plant, it will be easier to load into the vehicle. (Plan on wearing a long-sleeved shirt & gloves for moving any rose!) Position the plant far enough away from the entry so when you tilt the plant it's top is aligned to go in. Towels or quilts or some type of padding will be useful bunched up across the width of the cargo space where you anticipate the top will rest once loaded. Usually load the top of the plant first so the pot is against the back doors, as it can take two people to load it pot-first & remove again. Stand sideways to the entry, tilt the pot toward your destination, grab hold of it with one hand cradling it on the side & the other on the bottom.Or you can hug the pot to lift it, bracing it against your torso. Lift & guide it into the cargo. A large piece of cardboard on the floor will help it slide forward. An open box around the pot once it's in will keep it from rolling, or anything else to brace it.

Sounds harder than it is! Tall plants at nurseries usually only get the sheet wrap & a box for the pot. (Okay, admit I carry this stuff & more in the back all the time. Never know what I'll chance upon that wants to come home with me.) Go get your (My) Girl!

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clipped on: 07.09.2014 at 01:38 pm    last updated on: 07.09.2014 at 01:38 pm

RE: June 2014 In My Garden. (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: glengarry23 on 07.07.2014 at 06:32 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

Clematis,'Dorothy Walton'.

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RE: Homestead Purple verbena blooming in other colors (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: vasue on 07.07.2014 at 08:35 pm in Perennials Forum

Since no one's jumped in yet, I'll give this a whirl.

Are you certain that the verbena sold to you is indeed Homestead Purple, or could it have been mislabeled? Have you contacted your supplier to find out more about this? Perhaps other plants marked HP have bloomed in the same manner.

Verbena can be propagated by cuttings or seeds. Cuttings will be identical to the mother plant, but seeds can be variable, especially if other varieties of verbena are growing nearby which may have cross pollinated, but even pollinated by the identical variety. A lone specimen of white Phlox paniculata David set seed here (so self-fertile) & one of the seedlings bloomed lavender. Checking to see if this was unusual, found David's Lavender, a sport of David introduced & patented by Itsaul Plants in Georgia. Assuming theirs originated in the same way as mine and has been continued from cuttings of the seedling (vegetative propagation), but it's possible the Lavender grew from a branch of David.

The link is to some varieties new for 2014. There's a slideshow & Lanai Twister Purple looks something like you describe. There may be others.

A sport usually arises as a branch different in growth on an existing plant & is considered a mutation. If cuttings from the oddball branch grow identically, and cuttings from those plants down the line, it's considered a stable mutation & can be considered a new variety. Sometimes a stable mutation will revert & show the characteristics of the plant from which the sport arose. That's all memory turns up on the subject, but others likely know more.

If you determine yours is a new variation, you could always fool around with cuttings to be sure it's stable. Don't know anything about patenting plants or selling distribution rights to such plants.

Rosie, how exciting to have met Dr. Armitage & how lucky to get a special plant before its official introduction!


Here is a link that might be useful: Verbena new for 2014

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RE: Butterfly bushes and winter of 2014 (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: vasue on 07.07.2014 at 07:09 pm in Perennials Forum

Like Gardenweed, most everything here was considerably delayed in starting up after a tough Winter & on-again-off-again Spring. Our tall butterfly bushes are chance seedlings of one next door, so self sown, and we've never pruned nor deadheaded them in the 12+ years since they began. They must be 12' high at least & arch over another 4'. Began to be concerned when they hadn't leafted out by early June. A week later, leaves budded out all over & now they're in full bloom. Younger plants may require more time, having less resources upon which to draw. Wouldn't count them out.

Normally evergreen Sky Pencil holly's leaves freeze-burned & died from the extended cold. It releafed a month ago & no sign now that it ever suffered. Gardenias' leaves died, too, and are just now beginning to bud out from the original branches.

After many years of gardening, tend to give plants plenty of time to recuperate, having seen some arise from the ashes as much as a year later...

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RE: Stumped by a Trellis Problem (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: vasue on 07.07.2014 at 01:32 pm in Perennials Forum

Bluestone, you might consider Poet's Jasmine - Jasminum Officinale - for those trellises. Hardy to zone 6, loves the sun, blooms from June to frost here in central VA. Loses its leaves most Winters, but the stems remain green so still ornamental in the cold & with deep blue/black berries. Lovely fragrance emitted that carries late afternoon through evening, or anytime you stick your nose close to the flowers. Not a heavy cloying perfume, but sweet & clean. Hummingbirds love them & so do I.

I'd wanted this for years & planted one in this garden 16 years ago that I'd grown from a cutting. Took off easily. There are several varieties, some with pale or variegated foliage that may have trouble in that baking position. I grow the dark green one, with hints of pink on the outside of the buds that open white. Logee's Greenhouse usually carries them, but website says sold out at the moment. Looking for a link, found this one for BC that sells gallons & ships till the 15th. Others found have mainly suspended shipping till September or on backorder. Brushwood carries it.

Here is a link that might be useful: Jasminum Officinale

This post was edited by vasue on Mon, Jul 7, 14 at 13:35

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RE: blue danube hydrangea and full sun (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: vasue on 07.05.2014 at 10:24 am in Hydrangea Forum

Androidmom, your beds under the pines look ideal for them - great choice! Expect they'll thrive there, adding height & grace & color for many years to come. You can plant them out any time in such a location, without waiting for the weather to cool down. Keep them watered well & use your supply of fallen pine needles as mulch & they should settle in well. Juryrig a little temporary shade if they wilt during sun hours at first to help them take the change from pot to ground in stride.

Whatever the true identity of your hydrangeas (regardless of the labels), they'll bloom next year with the same flower form. The flowers' color may change to blue tones as the roots expand into garden soil, but consider the blue equally as beautiful as the rose. If they are mislabelled, their mature height & spread may differ from expectatons over time, but as long as you aren't planting them in a line like a hedge, that shouldn't much matter in that location.

Lowe's is infamous for mislabelled plants. Don't frequent HD but certainly believe others' reports the same is true there. Since both have generous return policies, often go ahead & buy to research at home if the plants are in short supply rather than checking before purchase when many are available, since appealing well-priced plants can be cleared out quickly. The hydrangeas tend to be among the most typically mistagged, but that can work in your favor if you're up on different varieties & can spot the oddballs. Sometimes rarer plants are marked as more common ones & priced considerably less than they would be if properly identified. Those of us who check the stock frequently often score in the thrill of the hunt. And many highly reputable nurseries send out mismarked plants, too.

Please keep us updated on the growth of your lovely hydrangeas!

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clipped on: 07.05.2014 at 10:26 am    last updated on: 07.05.2014 at 10:26 am

RE: Exterior light fixtures that don't rust in salt air?? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: vasue on 07.03.2014 at 11:29 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Inland now, but lived on the Atlantic for years - solid brass, bronze, copper (not plated, but entirely that metal). Of these, brass is the least expensive & most traditional, used for centuries on coastal properties & boats. Best without a clear finish coat (usually lacquer) as that will quickly crack & discolor, requiring removal to polish. All will form a surface discoloration - patina - in a thin layer that actually protects the metal from deteriorating. First reaction is usually the pale greenish patina, which continues to darken over time to brown & then black.

If you prefer a bright shine rather than patina, you'll need to clean the fixtures in place at least twice a year. Get some inexpensive Barkeeper's Friend and Bon Ami powders. Both come in shaker cardboard cans, can be found in grocery & hardware stores with cleaning supplies & do a good job without a lot of mess or elbow grease. Like to use both dry on a damp rough cloth like terry washcloths sold in multiples for cleaning. Barely dampen the cloth, just enough to allow the powder to stick to it (spritz it with water), and rub over the surface. Turn the cloth to a clean section & apply more powder as you go. Start with the Barkeeper's to clean & follow with the Bon Ami to polish after cleaning. Just shake the powder onto the cloth or shake some into a dish & dip the cloth into it. Bon Ami does a great job on any glass, too, where the Barkeepers may be too rough. For the glass, use Glass Wax after cleaning to keep it clean. There are oils & waxes for the metals to delay tarnishing, if you like. Check at marine supply shops for these. A piece of paper, cardboard or masking tape can keep the surface where the fixture fits clean during the process. Loosen the screws that hold the fixture slightly to slip these behind. If you're really thorough, remove the screws one at a time, clean with the powders & an old toothbrush & replace. A toothbrush will help with any grooved parts on the fixture, too. Same process with other exterior brass such as doorknobs.

New solid brass can be pricey, but then again won't need to be replaced. Used brass fixtures are very reasonable. (Found a set of 6 large wall lights & a matching post light on Craigslist for $25 total that now grace this house after an initial cleanup.) If you're not comfortable rewiring older ones, lamp shops can do the job. Make sure to specify "exterior" wiring to hold up for damp & wet installations.

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clipped on: 07.03.2014 at 11:35 am    last updated on: 07.03.2014 at 11:36 am

RE: Together (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: vasue on 06.30.2014 at 10:54 am in Hydrangea Forum

Springwood, this Together came in a 3-gallon trade pot - so actually 2.5 gallons or thereabouts & you are correct. Like dimensional lumber (the current 2x4 piece of wood is in reality a "nominal" measurement less than), a "trade" 3-gallon doesn't hold a "true" 3 gallons.

Nice buy on your mismarked Together!

This post was edited by vasue on Mon, Jun 30, 14 at 10:55

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clipped on: 06.30.2014 at 10:57 am    last updated on: 06.30.2014 at 12:16 pm

RE: Together (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: vasue on 06.30.2014 at 10:44 am in Hydrangea Forum

Luis, sorry I wasn't clear - picked up a 3-gallon 2 months ago in bud & bloom. Searching this forum's posts, see folks were already growing it a few years back. Looking for feedback on growth habits, bloom cycles & length, siting, sun/shade exposure, overwintering with or without protection. Looking for a reality check!

How does Together grow and bloom in real gardens with actual weather? (Rather than professional websites spin, reports from the front line...)

Over the past two months, this one has grown quickly, still in its 3-gallon pot. Initially 18" high & wide, this morning it's 30" tall by 44" across. Buds & blooms from new wood are coming along now, the second round. This one can't take sun past 11 am - perhaps because the soil volume can't hold enough moisture to support all the extended growth even with daily thorough watering. But it's pushing new bloom with only 3 hours of morning sun. Working to figure out its happiest placement in the ground & trying out various "parking" spots in the meantime, feedback would be gratefully appreciated.

Overdue for a larger pot, on my way out for more potting soil. Like it so much, considering picking up another. Some still available locally a few days ago, literally loaded with buds & blooms.

So - does Together fall into the "tried & true" camp or get mixed reviews? Is Together a winner?

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clipped on: 06.30.2014 at 10:57 am    last updated on: 06.30.2014 at 10:57 am

RE: Help with my Pistachio Hydrangeas (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: vasue on 06.29.2014 at 10:00 am in Hydrangea Forum

Hokierusty, I'd be hesitant to buy any hydrangea not in bloom, too. If in bud & returnable, would take a chance. Local Lowe's still has a couple 3-gallon Pistachios squished in with loads of new various arrivals, and remarkably they still look good under their care after sitting on the sale table for 6 weeks. Any at your Lowes? Really liking Pistachio - the buds & blooms just keep coming from every node, coral pink main color still, though some of the lavendar pincushion centers have morphed to blue as the older blooms age.

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clipped on: 06.29.2014 at 10:01 am    last updated on: 06.29.2014 at 05:39 pm

RE: Hydrangea Collapsed under heavy rain. (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: vasue on 06.29.2014 at 11:17 am in Hydrangea Forum

Cadence, you have my sincere sympathy! Hailstorm did that kind of damage on a hydrangea in peak bloom.

If the branches are not broken off, splinting can sometimes allow them to mend. Same principle as splinting a broken bone. Materials used depend on the size of the stem. Often use plastic straws up to jumbo size or thin flexible plastic pipe for this. Either material can be cut to length to bridge the gap generously, opened to slip around the stem & taped closed around the stem in place. Several straws overlapped can surround a larger stem before sizing up to flexible pipe (really just a larger "straw"). Sometimes the branch needs to be supported vertically at the same time with a prop to take any horizontal pressure off the stem. Traditional splinting - using two or more rigid supports held in place - can use anything at hand - chopsticks, paint stirrers, plastic knives, taped to the branch to bridge the injured area. Worth a shot, simple enough to try.

Branches broken clean through can be planted at the base of the bush, elsewhere, in a pot, and will sometimes take if given shade, watered & misted. Also worth a try in my book. And you can always put them in vases in the house after cutting the bottoms cleanly. Many grow hydrangeas in cutting gardens just for this. Or dry them for everlastings. Kind of a "make lemonade" approach.

The twine support described by Springwood_Gardens is also traditional (time-tested) & effective, but my preference is to support branches of flopped plants with rabbit fencing or mesh support. Easier to do with less collateral damage during the process for those unfamiliar with the twine strategy & by one person unassisted. Rabbit fences are those foldable rigid wire green-painted ones with legs that push down into the ground. They come in at least two sizes - low & knee-high once installed. You can gather upright the branches on one side of the bush equal to one panel of the rabbit fence, hold it upright with your body & one arm, and push the fencing into the ground slightly with the other arm while bending over. Slant the fence towards the plant, since pressure from the branches tends to bow it out. Go around the bush unfolding & installing a panel at a time. Once you're satisfied with positioning, you can push all the legs in firmly. For a large flopping bush, you may need to corral the interior of the bush with the fence first & install another layer of fence around the outside.

Tomato cage supports - the metal wire vase cones on legs - can work, too. Usually put in before a plant grows, they can be clipped with wirecutters along one side to open & install after the fact & secured with zipties to hold closed. Two or more can be used end-to-end to surround a large plant, and they can be installed upside down, with the legs in the air, for a teepee cone with the legs held together at the top with ties or a ball & the bottom secured with soil staples. The wire spacing is large enough to fit individual branches through for support. If you have some trellises not in use, those can be put in around the plant for support, too, with the stems resting on the crosspieces.

Any of these are easily removed, since you're looking for a temporary support anyway, but will last a year or more if needed. Keep them handy myself for as-needed support to correct or prevent mishaps. You might console yourself somewhat that the bush still lives & will survive & outgrow this damage - helps a little to put in that perspective.

This post was edited by vasue on Sun, Jun 29, 14 at 11:24

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clipped on: 06.29.2014 at 11:24 am    last updated on: 06.29.2014 at 11:27 am

RE: Help with my Pistachio Hydrangeas (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: vasue on 06.26.2014 at 11:30 am in Hydrangea Forum

Vinsone, do you mean South Dakota by SD? If so, follow the link below to find your hardiness zone. Looks like that would place you somewhere between 3b (-35) to 5b
(-15). Pistachio is only rated hardy to -20F. If you're in zone 5a (-20) or 5b, it may work for you if well-sited & heavily Winter protected. If not, you may have success growing Pistachio in pots overwintered in a garage or other shelter.

What size pots were your Pistachios in when you got them? Pot size often indicates the age of a plant, with smaller pots for younger plants. I'd be hesitant to plant anything less than a gallon directly in the garden myself. Many pot up smaller sizes into larger pots as they grow to give them the advantage of more controlled conditions till they're more mature, often growing them along in pots & planting out the following Spring after late frosts are past.

Depending on your zone, you may find your Pistachios able to adapt to 9-10 hours of sun as they get older, but that's a lot of sun. The tag that came with mine says morning sun, afternoon shade. In the meantime, if your zone allows for growing them in the open garden, shade them past noon while they're so young. Lawn chairs, cheap umbrellas stuck in the ground at an angle to deflect noonday sun, replaceable cardboard propped with stakes or any other juryrig that comes to mind & hand will do in a pinch. Agree with livrerosa's sound advice. If you have a "mist" setting on your watering handle, fine misting is helpful to hydrate the leaves when the rootmass isn't established or large enough to deliver moisture to them under stress. You can mist them in the morning before the sun hits and later under shade with positive benefits several times a day. Mulch helps protect the roots & lower the soil surface temp, but keep it from touching the stems.

Trialing two Pistachios in 3-gallon pots here in zone 7a central Virginia the past month, find them doing fine with 7 hours of full sun in daytime temps ranging from 70-98. They may take more hours of sun than that - haven't tried. Kept well-watered once a day, no scorch or wilt yet. Bought in bloom & bud, first flowers still fresh, original buds blooming & new buds coming along. With new additions of uncertain sun-shade preferences, like to keep them in pots for a season before planting early September or so, which this zone allows. That way they can be easily repositioned to change exposure if indicated. (The lazy gardener's way of finding their best spot.) These 3-gallons are ready to be moved to 5-gallon pots, and two 1-gallon mophead hydrangeas of other varieties bought late Spring have already been repotted to 3-gallons. You may find it easier to pot your Pistachios now, give them afternoon shade, and plant out again when they're more mature & able to handle your garden conditions.

Here is a link that might be useful: USDA 2012 zone hardiness map

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clipped on: 06.26.2014 at 11:34 am    last updated on: 06.27.2014 at 01:17 am

Fantasia

posted by: vasue on 06.26.2014 at 04:31 pm in Hydrangea Forum

On the lookout for this since its introduction, found a gallon at Lowes in early May & 3-gallons later last month, all healthy specimens (newly arrived) in bud & bloom. Captivated by the creams, pinks & celery greens of the flowers, the old & new wood reblooming capacity, the promise of pale yellow-apricot-mauve tones as the blossoms age and the reasonable prices of $17 & $27, initially brought one of the smaller & then two of the larger home to audition for key garden positions. Hydrangeas in the pink range tend to blue here in acidic soil. Reluctance to mess with additives in mixed plantings makes Fantasia additionally appealling, not having turned up reports that it'll blue out. At least, not yet...

Observing these for the last 6-8 weeks, still potted, in various exposures, find the older, larger plants fine in ESE full sun exposure from 10-2 until the temps exceed 90. They don't wilt or burn or lose flower substance even at the 98 high we've hit, being watered well daily, but project a general air of unease at high temps. The younger, smaller plant didn't like that much sun from the get-go, being content in only 2 hours of sun yet still producing new buds & blooms. Like its older siblings, it didn't show obvious signs of sun fatigue. The Forever & Ever brand tag that came with them advises "partial shade" for zones 7-9 and "full sun to partial shade" in zones 5-6. So it looks like the morning sun/afternoon shade rule of thumb applies here for them at both ages. Finding myself unconvinced of hybridizers' claims till proven in this garden leads my reason for trialing new plants. Helpful prior to more permanent planting plus easier on me & the plants.

Since temps higher than the 90's can be anticipated in any given Summer, Fantasia's now become a candidate for spots where the sun shines earlier but not past noonish, opening up new possibilites to explore as the season progresses. Now wondering how little morning sun they may need to happily grow & bloom well. They're all ready to be transferred to larger pots, so will be placed in shade after repotting & advance into greater morning exposure from there, experimenting to find their minimums after determining their maximums.

Sun/shade mix being only one component in trying to find their best garden placement, now looking ahead to Winter weather patterns in various sites, which led to older posts & responses to cold. Springwood_Gardens, read you've grown Fantasia for two Winters now. From your reports at F&E's website & DG, appears Fantasia died back to the ground even in the milder weather year before last, and has been slow to resprout the last two Springs. After the pummeling the garden took this last Winter, perhaps over-cautious at this point, though usually pick plants rated two full zones (to 5a) lower to hedge my bets, since we've dropped to -7 for short periods here over the years. Any details you can add such as initial age of your plants, sun/shade & weather exposure, any protective seasonal measures, would be really helpful & much appreciated. Know you're usually colder than here (but so is Alaska & that wasn't true last year), but don't consider the 10 degrees between USDA's estimation of typical lows that much different between your garden & mine. In this clearing in the woods, plenty of strategic windbreak but little heatsink.

Calling all familiar with Fantasia - spill the beans! Is this mophead as fantastic as advertised, or is the fantasy part unrealistic expectations?


This post was edited by vasue on Thu, Jun 26, 14 at 17:28

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clipped on: 06.27.2014 at 01:16 am    last updated on: 06.27.2014 at 01:16 am

RE: blue danube hydrangea and full sun (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: vasue on 06.26.2014 at 05:15 pm in Hydrangea Forum

Androidmom (great name!) your chances of doing so successfully may depend on which direction that location faces - whether you're talking morning or afternoon sun - and whether you're willing & able to provide plenty of water, often, for at least the first few years. An easterly exposure would be kindlier in that much sun. The brick of the house likely will absorb the sun's heat & bounce it out to make the site hotter. If the hydrangeas' leaves can grow in thickly enough & early enough in the Spring, they may block the brick from the sun before the sun becomes intense.

Not familiar with Blue Danube myself, not having grown it, but it is certainly beautiful & would be lovely blooming there. Do you expect your boxwoods to grow larger over time, or are they a small variety? You've probably already considered mature sizes of both, but just in case you haven't, good idea to look into the future. I've seen recommendations ranging from shade to full sun on this one, too. In my book, it all comes down to where & how much sun, which is seldom mentioned.

You might experiment to find out for yourself in your garden in that position, by leaving them in pots (sunk into the soil or sitting atop) & observing how they react to that exposure as the season heats up. Often do that here in central Virginia near Charlottesville, planting around early September if the plants' response reads good to go. (Rather hot now till then to transplant hydrangeas. Can be done successfully, but tougher on the plants.) You should know fairly soon if they'll be happy there with this method. If they're unhappy, much easier to consider another place for them without having to set them back by digging up & transplanting. Are these gallon plants or a larger size? Older more mature plants can often take more sun than their younger versions.

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clipped on: 06.27.2014 at 01:15 am    last updated on: 06.27.2014 at 01:15 am

RE: who planted those *!@#ing morning glories?! (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: vasue on 06.24.2014 at 12:16 pm in Roses Forum

Only time planting morning glories was around 1980 when I fell for the picture on a seed pack of Flying Saucers, a blue & white pinwheel. They were glorious that year along an open lattice tall fence. However, the nearly forever seedlings bloomed dishwater gray! Must not have been a quirk, since they disappeared from the market soon after - only to reappear recently, touted as the rarest form...

After warning my son to be careful when siting morning glories for their enduring nature, he planted Heavenly Blue in a small bed to the side of the driveway bordered by a concrete slab patio along with grapes. They've only reappeared there for the 5 years since, and maintained the blue, so seems the hardscape's coralled them.

Find moonflowers more rewarding, and they've - unfortunately - only managed to reseed here once. Or maybe they do & the bunnies eat the sprouts before I can find them? Deer sure loved the moonflowers, so grew them in pots on the porch. The lone seedling spread along the base of the stone porch & never finding a leg up, made its way stretching along the base for 20' only a foot high & wide. Never would have occurred to me to plant a moonflower for that use, but it certainly made a charming low edging to the wall, like jim's morning glory border.

This post was edited by vasue on Tue, Jun 24, 14 at 12:18

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clipped on: 06.24.2014 at 12:19 pm    last updated on: 06.24.2014 at 12:19 pm

RE: Pistachio Horwack (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: vasue on 06.04.2014 at 10:55 am in Hydrangea Forum

Thanks for chiming in! Appreciate the comeback ability of yours after that mown down Winter, Springwood! Need more with this trait of maintaining presence in the garden rather than slow to (we hope) regrow. French online source also reporting a very long bloom season, gardengal, in climate conditions similar to mine, along with Autumn leaf coloration - a little extra twist.

Found some web photos showing the coral pink of this one & descriptions from Europe noting medium pink with no mention of red. Curious to see whether this one will continue to express this colorway or move on to fire engine red. What shades did yours display, gardengal? Please both update when this year's blooms unfold.

Really like the smaller leaves set more closely & densely along the stems, in contrast to leggier examples, with the profuse smaller bloomheads in perfect proportion. Can see why its such a good candidate for containers, where its lateral tendencies would cascade over the sides without flopping. Thinking this characteristic may make it sturdier when the wind kicks up, as well. In the garden, wondering if it would naturally root along its lower reclining branches over time (or certainly could be assisted in doing so), to eventually form a "colony"?

So enamored with Pistachio, went back for a twin!

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clipped on: 06.04.2014 at 10:57 am    last updated on: 06.23.2014 at 01:05 pm

Pistachio Horwack

posted by: vasue on 06.01.2014 at 01:42 pm in Hydrangea Forum

Searching through the posts, seems a few of you have been growing this for a year or so now. What do you think? Like gardengal, wasn't predisposed to like Pistachio, but find myself thoroughly intrigued by its charms in person. You can tell - one followed me home from Lowes in a large 2.25 gallon pot for $27 with the Forever & Ever label.

The "red" at this point is more a rosy pink with coral tones - not what I'd tag red at all. The "lime" green is what I think of as "new leaf" green or "Spring green", not approaching lime or chartreuse as some of the growers' photos show. The opening buds are pale green with the rosy coral pink radiating from the center & ribboning the edges. One of the heads is developing a lavender pincushion center. Expecting the coloration to deepen as advertised as the blooms age, but the colorway is currently much softer than anticipated & quite fetching with pink & coral roses blooming nearby. Like all these chameleons, Pistachio's coloring once established in acidic soil here a mystery unsolved till time tells.

Most impressive is the number of blooms unfolding - no less than 2 dozen, with as many more buds already swelling. Tiny buds uncounted just beginning to show on stem & branch growth at every node. Never seen a mophead this young so full of vitality, so eager to grow & bloom. Been sitting out in full sun the last week, daytime temps peaking between 70 & 90, without the slightest sign of wilt, fresh as the proverbial daisy. High hopes spinning here...

Previously released in Europe as Schloss Wackerbarth, can understand why its been renamed Pistachio here & Glam Rock in the UK, though Horwack is its registration name. Seems Forever & Ever as well as Ball under its Next Generation (Next Gen) line are the licensees in the US. Advertised as growing 3-4 x 3-5', reblooming (blooming on old & new growth) from June to October (till frost?) & hardy to zone 5.

So tell me the skinny - what's not to like?

Here is a link that might be useful: Pistachio/Horwack

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clipped on: 06.01.2014 at 01:43 pm    last updated on: 06.23.2014 at 12:59 pm

RE: Do I dare try planting garden phlox (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: vasue on 06.22.2014 at 01:27 pm in Perennials Forum

The traditional defense to dining preferences of rabbits is one of those folding wire "rabbit" fences with legs set into the dirt, or something similar like wire mesh. They come knee-high & slightly shorter and can be used to protect a general area or just a specific plant. Useful, too, to corral floppy plants inconspicuously. More decorative permanent edging & fencing with non-squirmable spacing does the trick, with buried mesh to prevent digging underneath.

Surrounded by woodlands here ,with many rabbits & other wildlings, all with tummies to fill! Find surrounding the beds with plants they don't like deters them from exploring the interior. Lavender, monarda, salvia, heuchera, dusty miller & more work as edging. While waiting for plants to originally fill in, those rabbit fences come in handy! After that, I don't clear the foliage in the Fall even on those not evergreen - perhaps the oils in the leaves & stems continue to repel them or they've decided by then those beds are not interesting?

A few of the deer, a small minority of the several herds here, find perfumed phlox irresistible as they begin to bloom (ditto roses). Those are protected by lavender, agastache, others high in essential oils, thick floppy plants & those that obscure their footing. Deer here are very careful where they step while browsing & hesitant to risk where they can't see bare ground, reluctant to even jump into such unsafe territory. Even wire fences laid on the ground in plain sight on grass exclude them (but not the rabbits!), as do upright jumpable fences if the flower or veggie bed is long & narrow without a clearly visible landing place.

While redoing a 15x20' bed off the front walk last year, potting up some plants temporarily & leaving others, wound up with tempting open areas in the process. Set empty flower pots on bare soil to keep them from advancing into the bed, on the theory of unsure footing. Sure enough, it worked!

With all critters, seems a game of wits as much as one of claiming territory by strategy...

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clipped on: 06.22.2014 at 01:27 pm    last updated on: 06.23.2014 at 12:48 pm

RE: Any experience with Verbascum 'Blue Lagoon'....? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: vasue on 06.22.2014 at 12:18 pm in Perennials Forum

Tried several of these over the years - Southern Charm, chaixii Album, phoeniceum - hoping they might do well in this damp climate since bird-sown common mullein (thapsis) thrives. Planted together on a slope for drainage in sun till mid-afternoon, each gave a half-hearted showing, as did their scant volunteer seedlings, and petered out after a few years. Ah, well, nice try, no go.

Weeding around in a mixed perennial bed in another area this Spring, noticed a vaguely familiar seedling & left it for later ID, watching it grow quickly & lushly. Once it began to bloom, finally recognized it as verbascum. Which one - a mix from the former site, wildling, sown by a bird? This mystery's shot up to 30x20" & thrown a dozen spikes whose flowers are clear pale apricot yellow with lavender bosses. Gives the effect of a multiple clump rather than a loner. Could it be chaixii, nigrum or blattaria? Whatever its identity, most welcome, and obviously happy in this overly rainy site & season. Rich clay-based loam where it stands, kept moist for the roses & companions. Somehow had the idea they preferred leaner & drier soil - maybe that's where I went wrong in the past?

Delighted at the serendipity & hoping it will stick around & reproduce. Found a Southern Charm at the rear of the pot ghetto. (How many years has that been hiding there?) Given a larger pot & rich soil, it's now ready to bloom. High interest in the charms of this tribe peaking again...

Swoon for wowser Blue Lagoon - thanks for putting it on my radar! Not turning up in stock on mailorder sites, know of any? May have to make the local nursery rounds in search of this beauty. (Better yet, call around, since my seasonal resistance is weakening, what with the denizens of the pot ward imploring me to find earth homes for them & not let newcomers jump the line.) Lucky ones with Blue Lagoon, do tell how they do for you!

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clipped on: 06.22.2014 at 01:29 pm    last updated on: 06.23.2014 at 12:47 pm

RE: Is rose on own root better than grafted rose? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: vasue on 06.23.2014 at 11:18 am in Roses Forum

Here's a video where a well-respected rosarian explains & illustrates his thoughts on the subject. I've come to favor ownroot over grafted for the reasons he mentions & also find them healthier in general & more graceful as plants. Mulching & protecting an ownroot rose it's first Winter is the same for me as any perennial planted that year, and I'm in a warmer zone.

Seems the roses offered ownroot are those that do well on their own roots. Tend to buy gallon sizes, usually older more established plants, and larger if available.

Here is a link that might be useful: Paul Zimmerman Difference Grafted & Ownroot

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clipped on: 06.23.2014 at 12:04 pm    last updated on: 06.23.2014 at 12:04 pm

RE: Gossipy Question for Longtime Posters (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: vasue on 06.23.2014 at 12:02 pm in Roses Forum

"Sometimes when I have the most to say about my garden, I am too busy to say it." - Sammy

Think you answered your own question! Gardens in full swing, schools out, lots of warm weather activities & pools open, long days & lots to do can make it quieter here. Checking in when it rains, at breakfast, after supper, on several gardening forums besides Roses.

Sorry to hear your roses aren't thriving - aftermath of this past Winter? With all the rain & up-down hot-cool, the weeds are growing faster than the garden here!

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clipped on: 06.23.2014 at 12:02 pm    last updated on: 06.23.2014 at 12:02 pm

RE: OH NO! how can I save these guys? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: vasue on 06.23.2014 at 12:27 am in Roses Forum

Suspect teasing the roots apart is the initial problem for that four-in-one rose & your potting recipe, method & pots themselves poor choices. Am I understanding correctly that these all came from greenhouse conditions? If so, would have been a good idea to gradually transition them to outdoor realities to help them adapt before considering repotting or messing with them in any way, pretty much a rule of thumb for all plants newly coming out of greenhouse controlled environments. After successfully transitioning them to outdoor conditions, let them grow on in peace until they show additional growth without problems, indicating they've adapted & stabilized. At that point, you can work with them and their needs toward your goals. If you plan to add them to other plants in a mixed pot, you can do that then. Otherwise, no need to repot to a larger size unless & until their roots have filled & are beginning to crowd their original pot. You can slip their pot into a more decorative one for looks.

For future reference - if you prefer the lush full pot look the multiples were intended to provide, leave them be & treat as one plant. If you want to transplant the individuals in the multiple pot, wait at least until they've transitioned & stabilized as above to do so, and disturb the roots as little as possible in the process. Here's one method that works for me. Prepare by watering well a few hours or the night before dividing. You want the soil moist but not soggy, able to hold together without falling apart or crumbling. Set yourself up in the shade with your new pots & potting mix at hand. Using a sharp knife long enough to cut through the soil in a smooth motion without sawing, cut an x in two strokes across the pot leaving each plant centered in its section, as if cutting a cake into four equal pieces. Slide the knife down around the inside of the pot as if you were loosening a cake from its pan. Remove (I actually use a pie/cake server to do this) & pot each slice & water gently but thoroughly to settle them in. If the new soil sinks down below the slice's outline, top it up & water again until it's even. If they're sun or part sun plants, keep them in the shade for a few days to reduce any stress of dividing. Have done this successfully with mini roses several times, as well as other types of plants, but only tried when the stems were spaced in the original pot far enough apart to allow this, not when crowded together in the center.

Agree with other sound advice about immediate remedial repotting, potting mix, shade, frequent fine misting & not fertilizing new plants or transplants for reasons given. See no point for a sand layer below the soil or the mulch at the bottom, and imagine the mulch will absorb water & rot to the detriment of the plant. Which brings me to the pot itself. Looks like terracotta clay, whether glazed outside or wet can't tell. Terracotta absorbs a lot of water & can leave plants thirsty as well as wicking moisture from the soil. It has its advantages as well, but wouldn't recommend them for new gardeners. When using them with plants that need even moisture, they need to be initially soaked in a pail or sink of water until bubbles stop rising & then some to fully saturate them. After planting, you need to water the pot & the soil each time you water. You can tell when the soil & pot need to be watered again by rapping your knuckles against the side of the pot. A hollow sound like a ripe watermelon indicates excessive dryness & a dull rap signals adequate moisture. Water slowly till the surface below the pot is wet, then come back & water again a few minutes later. Once for the pot & twice for the plant. Another learning curve best left for another day. Use them for slip pots if you will, leaving room between your actual pot & the sides of the terracotta to prevent possible heat transfer.

No one to ask & no idea what questions were appropriate when I began gardening, then-timid me checked out a lot of library books on cultivation each time a new step was contemplated (very pre-internet). Advice was often contradictory from one author to the next. Muddled through, finding what succeeded, following the reasoning behind each treatment & remedy & building confidence.

Believe most gardeners have managed to unintentionally lose a lot of plants along the way - know I have! - as well as learning from goof-ups & salvaging a good many struggling ones back to health. Welcome to the ongoing journey of always-more-to-learn that makes gardening so fascinating & so rewarding!


This post was edited by vasue on Mon, Jun 23, 14 at 0:29

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RE: The Lesser Of Two Evils (fungicides) For Black Spot (Follow-Up #57)

posted by: vasue on 06.22.2014 at 07:18 pm in Roses Forum

Usually skip this subject since I've no experience with sprays besides some traditionals like sulfur & copper used many moons ago on fruit trees. Given my ignorance & the range of opinions, hesitant to even stick a toe in these waters, but (here we go) feel the need to share some thoughts.

We all acknowledge we can't grow some roses as perennials in the open garden due to intrinsic climate & site unsuitability, available space & individual practical considerations at any given time. We intentionally eliminate some roses from consideration for not meeting our bloom & growth preferences. Of those we do select, some will self-eliminate despite our care or be rejected down the road for not living up to expectations or no longer appealing as our tastes change.

The most critical of my criteria for choosing any rose is its reputation for health & vitality in conditions similar to my own. Gardening more than 50 years in typically humid & fungal prone locations zoomed this to the top of the list long ago. Heavy physical reactions to all the "-cides" except elemental since childhood prohibits their use, as does my philosophical worldview. So I garden the old-fashioned way, pre sophisticated chemical compounds, by necessity.

From my point of view, the health potential of any plant is expressed by positive response to its environment - nature vs. nurture - and the availability of the elements & conditions it needs to thrive tilt the odds to favor this expression. We all know moving a shaded rose into more sunlight often "cures" its blackspot outbreak, athough fungal exposure hasn't changed, and that roses sometimes outgrow these outbreaks with maturity. Believe boosting the plant's immune system by helping nature provide those essentials allows it to function optimally on its own, so concentrate my efforts on these aspects. (Same principles as human health. Incidentally, fortify my immune function with the internal products of plants' immune systems - essential oils - borrowing from the plants as it were, the core of traditional botanical medicine.)

When we first came to this garden 16 years ago, it had been installed & maintained by a college groundskeeper for 7 years on heavy-duty chemical prevention principles. Extensive shrubbery had been maintained with yearly chunky woodchips atop that of prior applications - 6" worth suffocating the soil without deteriorating though covered in sour-smelling fungus. Couldn't find a worm wherever I dug outside the woods & not a bug, good or bad, in evidence besides mosquitos, flies & chiggers. The few roses were dwindling away under this treatment, bare shadows of their potential. Reversed that trend with organic husbandry & the worms returned. Fed the beneficial microorganisms that fed the worms that till & aerate the soil & the soil web reestablished itself to create an environment in which suitable plants can thrive. For years now, the gardens have welcomed a wide variety of inhabitants that appear to have found an interwoven balance with which I'd be loath to meddle. Beneficials & birds keep the ruffians in check most seasons with an assist from the hose. One year the garden club girls (one fellow joined as I was leaving) spent an entire initial meeting exclaiming about decimation the Japanese beetles wrought over the Summer. Apparently no one believed my surprise & report that only a few spotted here that season not far from their gardens, or they might have wondered what could be different here...

Many roses brought in over the years, some with blackspot or mildew from travel stress, so likely a mix of farflung varieties present. Most got over it, as have those which arrived this humid rainy season, including a spotted Buff Beauty bought locally. Fungals show up here & there in small bouts with minor fleeting consequence (knock on wood).

Still not brave enough to intentionally choose roses not known for their good health, some of those with mixed reviews doing well. Those among the dear departed were dispatched by deer, storms, cold, neglect & seeming suicide. Shovel pruned 2 for RVR. In my book, really not a bad record for all the years & varieties attempted. Saved a lot of bucks & effort counted up over time, alternately spent on new plants & garden stuff. But then, an admittedly lazy gardener relying on simple methods to support health, the weather gods (as do we all) & beneficial energies...

Longwinded way of saying it can be done - growing roses naturally in the humid fungus-ridden Southeast - by way of encouragement to those considering a change of method & solidarity with those already doing it, too.




This post was edited by vasue on Sun, Jun 22, 14 at 19:34

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RE: new addition (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: vasue on 06.20.2014 at 04:06 pm in Perennials Forum

Maybe one of the "Flame series" phlox paniculata? These are dwarfs at 20" tall & come in a wide assortment of named colors with high mildew resistance & prolonged bloom beginning earlier than taller (3-5') phlox. Not usually a fan of minnied classics, find myself appreciating these for their retention of that sweet phlox fragrance, their versatility where their taller brethren would be too large & their kindred ability to lure the fliers - hummingbirds & hummingbird moths, butterflies, bees.

Tried a couple of the Early Start pink ones last year - Pink & Light Pink. Like them, but wanted something with a bit more height & heft. Added Blue Flame this year, a bicolor with blueish buds that open to white flowers marbled with the color of the buds. The individual florets are as large as tall phlox, though the flowerheads are shorter to match the proportion of stems, which are densely clothed with leaves. Lots of presence & flower power early to late. Would like to find Flame Coral and White next...

Yours looks a bit like Flame Lilac in the link below. Clicking "previous plant" & "next plant" will show a number of these Flames & other dwarfs. In the shorties, there's also the Early Start series, the Junior series, the Pixie series & more.

Here is a link that might be useful: Short phlox paniculata

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RE: Bee Balm blooming! (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: vasue on 06.17.2014 at 05:21 pm in Perennials Forum

Not a true fan of monarda until a chance meeting with Coral Reef. Intrigued by its striking coral pink fluffy blooms & full foliage, planted a gallon in clay-based loam on a slight slope in a mixed perennial bed four years ago. Wowed by its bloom power & health, now wouldn't be without this super performer.

A cross between Mahogany & Marshall's Delight from the Morden Research Center in Canada, find it grows 30" high here, has widened to to 20" at the base over time without encroaching on its neighbors & blooms from mid-June past frost. (A little late this year from an on-again off-again Spring, expect it to be in full bloom by the first of July.) No reseeding so far, believe because the finches relish its seedheads left standing decoratively over the winter. Hummingbirds & butterflies swarm the hundreds of blossoms. Bees love it so much they continue to visit & feed on pollen from the spent flowers, so rarely deadhead yet the blooms keep coming. Hummingbird moths frequent it in the evenings. One of the busiest destinations for the many fliers, seems a perpetual stage for the aerial ballet during its long bloom season.

Wand water that bed regularly if rainstorms don't oblige, never letting it completely dry out, and no problem with mildew in this hot muggy garden where it enjoys an outside edge position in 6-8 hours of sun beginning early in the morning. The saturated coral goes well with the fruit salad colors of many of its neighbors as well as the silvers, whites, blues & pastels of general companions, and doesn't disappear in subdued light. One of its interesting traits is the blossoms continue to expand after opening till they become pompom shaped, loaded with petals. Love this one & highly recommend!

(Edited to add: Deer & bunnies leave this alone. In fact, it "guards" roses behind it in the same manner as lavender.)

Here is a link that might be useful: Coral Reef

This post was edited by vasue on Tue, Jun 17, 14 at 17:26

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RE: name any rogue seedling that ended up a valuable plant (Follow-Up #34)

posted by: vasue on 06.08.2014 at 07:03 pm in Perennials Forum

Seems every year at least one mystery plant turns up. If I can't identify a seedling as a weed, leave or pot it up till it blooms. A Virginia spiderwort (Tradescantia) that flowers a striking shade of blue appeared a few years back in a sunny bed. Left it to make a nice clump before relocating it to shade at the foot of a maple clump on a slope. Promptly died back to regrow the following Spring. Imagine the maples' fibrous roots & natural leaf mulch keep it from spreading, and the blue is quite refreshing glittering from the shade.

Last year seedlings emerged for the first time near the lone phlox David. Potted up, one bloomed lavender - David's Lavender. Another time, a different looking wispy grass clump showed up with delicate stems that only reach a few inches high & wide, producing a cloud of pale pink flowers at the top like miniature Gypsophilia from Spring till frost. No idea what this is, looks like it may have originated in fairyland. Left to grow & seed, it turns up within a 20' radius of the original each year.

A small bushy plant with deep green leaves appeared one year. Not recognizing it, left it to grow, as it seemed so happy. When it formed a 2' ball, decided it needed to be moved & found a spot in the backyard overlooked by the kitchen windows near a post birdfeeder. An old peach tree blown down in a storm had provided shelter for the birds there & thought the bush might do the same. The bush certainly took to its new spot. The next year, a slender trunk appeared out of nowhere to elevate the ball. Ten years later, it's a 20' high graceful tree, teeming with birds from dawn till dusk. Haven't found another like it in the woods for miles around, nor found its identity. We're in the migratory path for birds & an overnight waystation, so perhaps one gifted it to us on their way through.

Many more surprises through the years. So far this season, a sturdy seedling that looked vaguely familiar left in place quickly reached two feet high by a foot wide. Began to bloom yesterday, pale yellow with lavender pincushion centers - Verbascum. Grew its forebearer many years ago in another garden bed, but that one never returned the following year. The first was pale melon with lavender eyes. Is this one a seedling or a wildling? Regardless, serendipity always welcome!

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RE: arggh - i hate being stupid!! (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: prairiemoon2 on 06.07.2014 at 09:03 pm in Roses Forum

I ordered Organic Alfalfa Meal from FEDCO this year and it's a nice, easy to apply powder that you can use to put a thin sprinkling of it if that's what you want to do. I had the pellets and they expand so much when they are wet that I found it hard to get the right amount in the right place, so I looked for something else. FEDCO was the first place I found organic alfalfa.

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clipped on: 06.08.2014 at 09:48 am    last updated on: 06.08.2014 at 09:48 am

Does anyone grow Cl. America?

posted by: Sara-Ann on 11.19.2013 at 07:07 pm in Roses Forum

This is a picture of Climbing America that I took in September. I came across it last night when I was looking at the rose pictures I took over the summer. I am falling in love with this it, I didn't know it could be this lovely, I've had it for several years and it finally decided to do its thing. I am looking so forward to it blooming profusely. Does anyone have full bush shots and comments about this rose. Earlier in the season I had posted another picture of it and said it had escaped being shovel pruned, because it finally decided to bloom. Right now I am in awe of it.

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RE: Best climbing roses for Pennsylvania (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: harryshoe on 01.27.2013 at 11:16 am in Roses Forum

Westerland grows well here (near Allentown) as a climber. It reblooms throughout the season and even includes a decent fragrance. Blooms open orange but fade to a yellow/coral blend. Winters here (low around 0) don't cause much dieback. Canes have reached 12'. I spray a Bayer fungicide about once per month which keeps Westerland clean.

Photobucket

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RE: Florist Varieties Available as Bareroots (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: Maude80 on 09.17.2013 at 03:11 pm in Roses Forum

Jaxondel, my propagating method is pretty standard and similar to what you often read here. I will take a stem, cut off the flower, and leave two sets of leaves on the stem. Then I make several vertical slits through the lower part of the stem with a razor blade. I have found that stabbing completely through the stem gives the best results.

I then dip the stems in powdered rooting hormone and then place them in soil that I have already poked holes in (so that the rooting hormone doesn't rub off). I seal this in a clear plastic bag and wait a few weeks.

I can usually tell if they are going to survive after about ten days by looking at the leaves. The ones that aren't going to make it usually drop their leaves after they turn yellow. The ones that do make it retain their original ones. I take them out of the bag after they have developed roots (I always plant them in clear cups so I can determine this)...

As far as finding out the name, for some reason Costco won't reveal the exact source of their roses. Also, there are so many different ones that look like the ones I grow that it would be hard to describe it to a florist anyway:)

Maude

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RE: Florist Varieties Available as Bareroots (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: farmerduck on 09.17.2013 at 01:52 pm in Roses Forum

I remember reading on this forum that some people have success with Golden Gate, a Kordes climber/cut rose.

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RE: Florist Varieties Available as Bareroots (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: kittymoonbeam on 09.14.2013 at 01:54 am in Roses Forum

Tournament has pretty fragrance too and the color shifts in a pretty way depending on temperature so its always fun to see what it will be that week

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RE: Florist Varieties Available as Bareroots (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: luxrosa on 09.13.2013 at 10:06 pm in Roses Forum

I did a search for you on hortico.com website. They are a mail order nursery in Canada that ships to the U.S.. The search yielded 13 pages of "good cut" Hybrid Teas which included these: (the notes are from my own experience)
Marilyn Monroe' huge orange blend roses, with good petal substance (relates to a long vase life), glossy foliage was very disease resistant in my neighbors no-spray garden.
'Tiffany' a classic florists rose. Pink with yellow base, very fragrant. vase life is c. 5 days where I live in California.
Alecs' Red' although this cultivar has somewhat shorter stems, c. 4 to 5" long, it is quite floriferous, and very fragrant. Tends to "blue" after a long spell. Long lasting roses on the plant and in the vase.
Caroline de Monaco' an ultra-modern H.T. , thick petal substance.
Countess Vandal' very lovely, another classic H.T., but not as long lasting in the vase as the roses listed above.
Dr. Brownell' Big rounded roses in mass profusion. Yellow blend with peachy tones. very floriferous.
Majestic
Chris Evert ' bright yellow.
Golden Jubilee
Artistry

that's just a few. There are a few that they listed in their search list for "good cut" H.T.s that have a shorter vase life (of course) here in california than in canada. Those included 'Just Joey" and 'Blue Moon' (thin petal substance= lasts 3 to 5 days in a vase where I live near San Francisco.
The rose that lasted longest in a vase out of 200+ roses, that we grew in our garden was Tournament of Roses' a Grandiflora my mother gave me. 10 to 14 days depending on air temperature. Short stems, though.
Good luck,
luxrosa

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RE: Zone 5 pale yellow climber recommendations? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: newroses on 03.03.2014 at 09:53 pm in Roses Forum

I think you should try Kordes Golden Gate. We have good reports on this variety in Zone 5. It is quite a grower and in warm climates may reach 14 feet in a season. You could also try Moonlight which is a bit paler but has some pink tones in the flower. Both have done well in Zone 5 trials.

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RE: A tale of 4 SDLM's (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: roseseek on 06.06.2014 at 05:05 pm in Antique Roses Forum

That depends upon what shade of blue. If it's light, it should reflect more of the heat than a darker shade would and could actually reduce some of the stress a bit. It's what the pot is made of that counts more. A "huge" pot would suffer less heat extremes to the center of the pot. Large soil masses insulate the roots better than smaller ones. You can more easily kill a plant in a six inch pot than you can the same plant in a twenty-four inch one. The larger the soil ball, the longer it will hold water and the greater the insulation value to the roots as a whole.

But, the material the pot is made from makes an extreme difference. Ideally, if you live where there is extreme sun, extreme heat, extreme aridity, they should be made from materials which do no absorb high levels of heat; do not retain the absorbed heat for long periods of time and don't efficiently radiate that heat to the pot interior. Plant roots grow outward and eventually wrap themselves around the interior of the pot. When the sides of the pot get really hot, remain really hot for long periods of time and efficiently transmit that heat to the soil/roots inside, the plant gets quite stressed, quite quickly and can easily literally be cooked to death.

Terra cotta (clay) and glazed ceramic are cooking utensils. You can buy terra cotta bake ware and Corning Ware is "glazed ceramic". Both are tremendously efficient at cooking food well. Those materials are also tremendously efficient at cooking plant roots. There is little difference between a Corning Ware casserole dish sitting on an electric or gas burner (or inside an oven) and a glazed ceramic pot with the sun shining directly on its surface or sitting on a hot concrete patio.

If you live where it is generally cooler and you want to push plants and make fruit sweeter, use those kinds of planters/pots and put them on masonry surfaces so you can increase the soil temps. If you live where those conditions are extreme, you need to think of the container more as an ice chest...something which will protect the roots against the extreme heat sources. Foam, fiberglass, concrete, wood, even plastic nursery cans can actually be safer to use than the more desirable types so often selected due to their "beauty". Black plastic does absorb heat, but it doesn't hold it nearly as long as clay or ceramic do, so the soil and pot begin to cool as soon as the direct sun moves from its surface. If the pots are actually shaded against any direct sun, they don't heat much at all compared to clay and ceramic. If you use lighter colored plastic pots, they don't heat nearly as much as the black plastic nursery cans, even when the sun shines directly on their surfaces.

If you want to continue using those blue painted pots for the roses, you can literally insulate their interiors using bubble wrap or even thin sheets of Styrofoam. Simply line them with those materials as you would insulate the ceilings of your house with fiberglass to create an "ice chest" effect. It will reduce the actual soil/root area, but it will also significantly reduce the heat transferred to the soil/root ball. Your roses should perform better than they have in uninsulated pots. But, I would still expect them to do even better in the ground than potted. Kim

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clipped on: 06.07.2014 at 12:15 am    last updated on: 06.07.2014 at 12:15 am

RE: Kordes roses verdict: excellent (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: jaxondel on 06.12.2011 at 10:53 am in Roses Forum

I'm assuming you have Kordes's 2004 'Eliza'. After checking the parentage of that rose, I'm not surprised that it's a good performer for you. The seed parent is 'Acapella', and the pollen parent has been identified as being a seedling of 'Caramba'.

'Acapella' is the healthiest and most prolific HT in my garden (probably the healthiest HT I've EVER grown). Both 'Acapella' and 'Caramba' were hybridized by Tantau, the other great German rose house.

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RE: Kordes rose performance (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: newroses on 07.18.2012 at 05:26 pm in Roses Forum

Jasmina has very soft petal and is not great in really rainy summers but so pretty and delicate - good fragrance too. Rosanna would be my pick for your climate in the climbers. Very easy to grow and a nice salmon pink bloom. Very good on black spot. Amedeus is a great red very healthy and hardy but wants to be a big climber - mine has gone 15 feet tall. It has a slight suceptability to black spot but pretty mild and usually just a few leaves on the base of the plant. Laguna is fragrant with old garden rose from - it is completely heathy for me and I have 10 growing on a fence. Another red you didn't have on your list is Red Corsair (ADR 2005)which puts on the most amazing display of glowing red flowers. I saw it at the no spray gardens at the NY Botanical Garden and it was great.

Lions FT does not get that big in my garden. I tink you will find if you spring prune that a typical height is 3-4 feet and maybe almost as wide. Kordes is located in northern Germany with a fairly short summer and some of the roses may be larger in warmer climates. I would thnk a 5b site would be fairly close to what Kordes says about the size of the shrub. My garden is a Zone 8 and I don't typically see that much differnce in size to what Kordes gives as size except in some of the shrubs which can be larger.

A suggestion for your site is Cream Veranda (aka Garden of Roses) which is a wonderful light amber floribunda. Compact not growing more than 3 feet tall and such pretty flowers. it has been doing very well in no spray trials - it won an ADR in 2009.

It is not true that ADR does not have HT type roses. I would strongly recommend Souvenir de Baden Baden which is a cream colored rose with a pink edge and won an ADR in 2010. Grande Amore is a very nice red HT that won in 2005.

A great new floribundas from Kordes with an ADR is Black Forest. Bright red flowers carried in trusses. A new introduction with excellent diease resitance is Poseidon - the first lavender with such good disease resistance.

Some things to know about the ADR. Really any roses awarded an ADR before 2000 were not trialed no spray so these roses may or may not be good on disease. It is a 3 year trial and you will find that some roses already on the market from Kordes in the N America may win the ADR in the future. Also since the space is limited in the ADR competition many very disease resistant roses are not entered due to the lack of space so not having an ADR does not mean it is not disease resistant. It is a bummer that all this advertising says "disease resistant" about every rose when it is far from the truth. Makes it difficult to chose the true disease resistant roses.

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RE: Kordes rose performance (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: everyrose on 07.16.2012 at 10:54 am in Roses Forum

Caramel Fairy Tale--very vigorous and completely disease free. The color can be very weather dependent. It can start out a harsh yellow-orange and it can age to a beautiful caramel-cream color. The blossoms get prettier as they age. A good rose but be flexible about your color expectations.
Elegant Fairy Tale--vigorous and completly disease free. Beautiful OGR style flowers worthy of its name. Throws 5 foot canes that need some support. Maybe it needs a few years to develop some structure and be self supporting.
Grand Amore--vigorous and disease free. A great red hybrid tea. This is one of the few no spray ADR hybrid teas that has a true high-centered hybrid tea form.
Mother of Pearl--vigorous and disease free. Very pretty peachy pink flowers.
Eliza--vigorous and disease free. Not really a hybrid tea. Blooms in clusters like a floribunda with very large flowers. Very pretty.
Brothers Grimm Fairy Tale--vigorous and disease free. Under 3 feet. Cute red-orange flowers with golden petal backs which age to magenta with silver backs. Not for the color shy.
A couple more to add to your list:
Pink Panther--vigorous and disease free. Large coral pink blooms. I'm intrigued by the dark plum colored stems that contrast with the flowers.
Francis Meilland--I don't grow this one yet. Introduced by Star Roses for 2013. ADR winner (aka Prince Jardenier or Schloss Ippenberg) and 2013 All American Rose Selection.

So far all my ADR roses have been hits. I have been accused of spraying my roses because people see so little blackspot and mildew on these roses. Thing to keep in mind--with the exception of Grand Amore, none of these roses have classic hybrid tea form. I can't speak to their hardiness in zone 5 since I live in zone 8.

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clipped on: 06.06.2014 at 12:12 pm    last updated on: 06.06.2014 at 12:12 pm

Buds

posted by: roseseek on 06.05.2014 at 04:31 am in Antique Roses Forum

I took these photos this afternoon thinking they might help to demonstrate why suckers can be so difficult to eradicate. What you're seeing is the internal structure of what would become a cane with a central bud and one guard bud on each side of the central bud. This is what is under the growth bud at each leaf axis. The central bud is the one which initially pushes in to growth. Should something happen to it, the side guard buds then push into growth. When a plant is budded, that central bud is pruned to encourage the guard buds to grow, producing a branched bare root instead of a "one cane wonder".

When a sucker appears, simply pruning it leaves the two guard buds which are then stimulated into growth. This is why it is suggested you dig down to find the point of origin, then rip it from the shank or root, in hopes of pulling the guard buds out with the cane. Kim

DSCN8011
DSCN8009

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RE: Cannot decide: need compact hydrangea (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: hydrangeasnohio on 06.16.2010 at 11:25 pm in Hydrangea Forum

Blue Eskimo I have had good luck with the FE Blue Heaven & Original ES Mopheads. So I never have had the need to try another with the Moonlight. But I do have three Starlights and they do great and they are on their third season now. Along with they are already in bloom right behind my Blushing Brides, the first always to bloom with no dieback every year! My Twist n Shouts did great their first winter also. If you do not already have a Blushing Bride, get one! They will do great for you.

I am getting tired of my Double Pink not blooming. I bought a Summer Lace also this year and I have my fingers crossed. I think it's flower edges out my Starlights and the TS takes third place in the flower department for me. But still love all three lacecaps.

The Together is a GREAT HYDRANGEA!!! ES seem all very reliable and FE seems like they might have a couple duds. But FE has a couple of real winners in my yard also!! So I forgive them for the pink ones. If the Summer Lace is a dud I might change my mind...LOL... Although the Double Pink is very dissappointing with it's very unique flower. Not sure why they advertise it blooms on new wood when it seems that it does not. It just gave me enough the first year to have me wanting more every year since! It is in a very good spot. So the most it has is till the end of next year to get it together. Here is a pic of the Summer Lace, Starlight & Together!

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RE: Please tell me all you know about Blushing Bride (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: hokierustywilliamsbu on 05.16.2011 at 07:16 pm in Hydrangea Forum

truely outstanding here in Virginia-though blushes Blue here more than pink--unless in a pot...


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RE: Big Daddy or Big Duddy? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: hydrangeasnohio on 05.06.2012 at 11:45 am in Hydrangea Forum

My opinion I would pass on it in zone 6. Unless you winter protect it, I think you will be sad most years. If you are looking for a reliable large blooming Mophead, my suggestion would be a blue heaven from the forever and ever series. They bloom for me every year with no protection and are my largest blooming mopheads. They are most commonly found at Lowes. 1 gallons are $12 and 3 gallons are $25. I bought 1 gallons and they are a fast growing. Only drawback to them is they are more particular than most rebloomers to the sunlight. They prefer more shady spots.

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RE: Big Daddy or Big Duddy? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: hokierustywilliamsbu on 06.14.2010 at 10:11 pm in Hydrangea Forum

Big Daddy is slow but BB is excellent-my 3 year old is 5feet tall and loaded!!!

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RE: Big Daddy or Big Duddy? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: hydrangeasnohio on 06.13.2010 at 08:31 pm in Hydrangea Forum

BIG DUDDY....LOL...Well I have always steered clear of this Hydrangea, so no personal experience in my yard. They were to rich for my blood when they first came out and just looking at them for some reason I was skeptical. But did they ever fly off the shelves at the nurseries that sold them and continue to do so! I know two local people who bought them and never bloomed again after the first year. Then online I hear about people having problems with them in zones higher than our zone 5. So for atleast zone 5 people I would say BIG DUDDY!

I can't say enough good things about my 2 Blushing Brides. Only Hydrangeas in my yard every year that have no die back and are the first to bloom! This is their third season. Only negative I could come up with is they are slower growers. But it has to be because of how much energy they put into flowering ever year. They are loaded again this year, but are close to the 3 foot range in size. I just can't bring myself to pinch off buds to make them bulk up in size. The BB is a real winner! People in zone 5 can feel 100% confident buying it for their gardens.

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RE: Need a shade loving hydrangea (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: hydrangeasnohio on 06.30.2012 at 10:25 am in Hydrangea Forum

Well I have many of each in different elements of shade...lol...Was just stating overall situations for many. But I have 2 Blue Heavens with 1 Twist n Shout buried on the North side of my house. Most of the year they never get any direct sun and do great! I have other blue heavens in some direct sun in the Morning and one that gets dappled sun all day. The ones on the North side with no sun do better by far and rarely require additional water. My Deck faces East and have a Twist n Shout Planted under the stairs to block the back side of stairs from the back yard. Maybe gets an hour of sun under there first thing in the morning. I started it from a cutting and grows and blooms like a weed...lol..I stuck it there just messing around & became its permanent home.


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RE: Need a shade loving hydrangea (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: cearbhaill on 06.28.2012 at 09:21 am in Hydrangea Forum

My Forever & Ever gets NO sun at all and is the best blooming macro I have.
Go figure.

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RE: Need a shade loving hydrangea (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: hydrangeasnohio on 06.28.2012 at 09:06 am in Hydrangea Forum

I have a Forever & Ever Blue Heaven, Endless Summer Twist n Shout and ES Blushing Bride in extreme shade (1-2 hours of sun) and do great. I also have a FE Summer Lace that gets maybe 4 hours of sun at best and is packed with flowers.


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RE: Summer Sale Roses Unlimited (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: vasue on 06.05.2014 at 09:56 am in Antique Roses Forum

No, NOT bands - "2 yr. old inventory in Nursery Trade Gallon Pots". A "trade" gallon holds 3 quarts of soil. (Four quarts to a gallon is the same whether liquid or dry measurement.) A round trade gallon pot usually measures 6-3/8" across by 7-1/4" tall. A band usually measures 2-7/8" (3") square at top & bottom by 5-1/2" high and holds 1.25 quarts of soil. So the trade gallon pot is more than double the size of a band.

For a visual comparison, check the link. Think you'll see why we get excited about gallons for $10

Congrats to all who found what they seek at a sale price!

Here is a link that might be useful: Gallon & band sizes

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RE: End of May and only new growth at bottom of ES Hydrangeas? (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: vasue on 06.02.2014 at 11:56 am in Hydrangea Forum

Welcome to the forum, deacondog! Somehow it does help to find we're all in the same boat, doesn't it? Many on various forums reporting a variety of well-established plants' top growth killed to the ground even in zones 8 & 9. I'm with SouthCountryGuy, too - don't count 'em out yet. If you give up on the old stems (and for reasons already mentioned, this may be wise at an appropriate time), the root mass still likely to produce new growth in its own good time. Over the years, found many plants left for goners regrew over a year later. (Clematis are infamous for this.)

Though I'd grown hydrangeas in other gardens (when they were considered low-maintenance shrubs), overlooked adding them here till last year when the new rebloomers caught my attention. Experimenting, brought in a few mopheads, potted them up, half-plunged the pots in a mound of soil covered with oak leaves last Fall & forgot about them - until the ice & snow storms became monotonous. At that point, imposssible to pry the pots from the frozen ground. If I'd only known what the weather had in mind, they could have safely spent the harsh season in the garage or more thoroughly protected - our common lament. After the Spring freezes, the pots were unearthed & set atop the ground. Only Leuchtfeuer (Firelight, Beacon Light, Lighthouse) has shown any growth - halfhearted, but much appreciated.

Like hokierusty in Williamsburg, the temp didn't dip below 0 here, but the extended cold did more damage than short lows below that in previous years. In this on-again, off-again slow motion Spring - almost Summer! - the soil here still hasn't warmed consistently. Well-mulched soil has barely warmed at all. Hydrangeas sited in part shade likely still haven't gotten the grow message in their cooler morning sun spots. Rose growers are finding that pulling mulch away from the root zone for stunted plants has worked to warm the soil & stimulate growth. Tried this for other woody perennials with success this year - latest they've ever emerged by a month at minimum. The principle should apply to planted hydrangeas in conditions like mine, as well, shouldn't it?

For the potted hydrangeas, plan to move them to the blacktop driveway where they'll receive the heat sink effect from morning sun (still with afternoon shade) to see if additionally warming their soil will help awaken them.

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Roses Unlimited Summer Sale

posted by: vasue on 06.04.2014 at 11:51 am in Roses Forum

From Roses Unlimited Home Page:

Summer Rose Bush Sale...

June 4, 2014 thru June 14, 2014...

All Sale Roses Must Be SHIPPED or PICKED UP by June 17, 2014...

No exceptions !!!

All Sales Are Final

2 yr. old inventory in Nursery Trade Gallon Pots

See "What's Happening Page" for Variety List...

$ 10 each...

(very limited supply - plants sold as is - First Come, First Served)

minimum 2 plants to ship...

minimum shipping $ 16...

Here is a link that might be useful: Sale list

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RE: Wine and Roses, Open House at Tufton Farm, Charlottesville, V (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: vasue on 06.02.2014 at 11:22 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Your presentation was mesmerizing - well beyond informative - highlighting the personality of & the skinny on each rose waved aloft in its green bottle. Demonstrating their charms, you revealed your own. Bravo!

For all the time spent reading about antique roses, had never met most of them in person. My first visit to Tufton (forgive me as a local), wowed by the encounter. This was introduction via total immersion - heavenly! Wandered the gardens the rest of the day, punch-drunk on beauty. A friend to share the experience, Rebecca, completed the golden day. Her remembrance of the event, including photos, at the link below.

Delighted to meet you & the roses, Connie! Lori, sorry we didn't connect...next time!

Here is a link that might be useful: Forsythia Hill - Wine & Roses

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RE: Pistachio Horwack (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: Springwood_Gardens on 06.02.2014 at 05:48 pm in Hydrangea Forum

Update: Mine, having died to the ground after year 1 is now producing many stems and has 20+ flower buds. Win!

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RE: Pistachio Horwack (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: gardengal48 on 06.01.2014 at 06:44 pm in Hydrangea Forum

After my initial dislike of this plant, I have to say that it is one of my all time favorite hydrangeas! A very long bloom season in my slow to start climate, a good compact size suited to container growing (a requirement for me) and that great combination of colors. IMO, this is a hydrangea that looks much better in person than it does in photos.

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RE: Pistachio Horwack (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: Springwood_Gardens on 06.01.2014 at 04:02 pm in Hydrangea Forum

I bought mine last year, and mine's color started fire engine red, I'd call it, and then I'd say it faded to kind of a purple with hints of green. I didn't take too many pics throughout the bloom cycle. But this shot was taken just after they opened.

 photo 2013-07-09_06-44-46_458.jpg

I didn't buy one until last year because I couldn't find any before then. I'm glad Lowe's are finally getting them in, though, and I hope people out there will have good luck with it.

Currently, my plant's growth is rebounding after most everything was killed over the winter (approaching 1'). It's too early to tell if buds are going to form or not, but there were a few shoots on old wood that are opening form stems that were at or just below ground level (due to the plant's "spreading" habit).

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RE: Best blue: Nikko Blue or Endless Summer? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: Hydrangea729 on 02.06.2012 at 07:59 pm in Hydrangea Forum

I grow a lot of the "good" blues. Here are my recommendations, based on what it sounds like you are seeking:

DEEP blue mopheads: 'Enziandom', 'Blue Heaven' (BH is really, really great and the blooms age wonderfully if given some shade!), 'Mathilda Gutges'

DEEP blue lacecaps: 'Nachtigall/Nightingale' (my favorite hydrangea overall), 'Blaumeise', 'Fasan'

LIGHTER blue mopheads: 'Nikko Blue' (I love Nikko but make sure to give it some good afternoon shade), 'All Summer Beauty', 'Generale Vicomtesse de Vibraye', and 'Endless Summer'

LIGHTER blue lacecaps: 'Twist-N-Shout', 'Blue Wave', 'Summer Lace'

Generally speaking (and this goes for purples, pinks, and reds too), the DEEPER the pigmentation, the better the sun tolerance. Makes sense when you think about it. So for your particular site, I would strongly consider 'Blue Heaven' because it is readily available and has been remarkable in my garden. The color is terrific. For a lacecap, look into 'Nachtigall', which in my experience, has excellent sun tolerance too. Added bonuses to growing 'Nachtigall' are the lush leaves and attractive, upright stems.

Good luck!

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RE: Need help choosing a new climber (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: Nippstress on 06.02.2014 at 03:45 pm in Roses Forum

Hi Vampygirl

I agree with Michael that Rosarium Uetersen is an easy care disease resistant climber, and it does pop when in bloom, though I wish mine rebloomed better. Another orange climber that does well in many zones is Westerland, and it's pretty reliably hardy and healthy for me, though I don't know about east coast and BS. If you want a nice purple striped climber, there has been a lot of good reaction to Purple Splash, which seems to be hardy and a reliable bloomer around multiple areas of the country. Mine is just now approaching its "leap" year, so I can't say too much personally, but it is hardy for me.

As for red, there are a lot of hardy healthy options, depending on how you define "red". In gardening terms, that often translates to "hot pink" or "dark crimson", not a true fire engine red, but they tend to be eye-popping and particularly hardy and healthy. Some in this color range are Quadra, Illusion, Ramblin' Red, Field of the Woods (the latter two possibly the same rose). For a redder 'red', I've had good results from Dublin Bay and The Prince's Trust, the latter of whom is the fastest growing climber of any ilk I've grown.

Hope these give you some ideas!

Cynthia

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RE: Need help choosing a new climber (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: michaelg on 06.02.2014 at 02:47 pm in Roses Forum

Sounds like you want a traffic stopper. Mine is 'Rosarium Uetersen', which produces masses of large, fairly fragrant flowers in vivid salmon pink, coral, or medium red, depending on the weather I guess. All the colors pop aggressively. Established plants repeat well. On the downside, it has large, sharp thorns. Mine is about 10 x12' on a support. It is vigorous and makes lots of canes to 8' that are flexible when young. Laterals 4' to 6' allow dense coverage of a trellis or arbor and flowers all the way to the ground. It does not make great long canes like 'New Dawn'. It is resistant to blackspot in some gardens, but there is a strain that affects it in others.

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RE: Red cedar berries killing roses ? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: michaelg on 06.01.2014 at 11:21 am in Roses Forum

Eastern red cedar (a juniper) is toxic (allelopathic) to some plants. The toxin is in the foliage. Note that western red cedar (not native to Colorado) is unrelated to the eastern kind.

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RE: Wanting to buy a plant..need help! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Springwood_Gardens on 05.11.2013 at 12:13 pm in Hydrangea Forum

I agree with Carol from Jax. The more roots and canes you can grow will help you a TON in the short run. In other words, unless you've bought a 5+ gallon shrub with a good root system 20-30 canes already on it, I would hesitate to plant. In zone 6, a "starter size" hydrangea will struggle with size and hardiness for quite a long time (this goes all the way up to Endless Summer - my former 1-gallons are just starting to achieve size and hardiness after four years). Roots I've found are especially important since the canes can easily dry out in winter.

If you'd like to enjoy this year's blooms, grow it in a large pot for the first 1-2 years, and then put it in the ground. Pot growing in a good mix will let roots develop fast. And, when you overwinter the pot in a cold place (unheated garage, porch) or temporary hole/ditch, the old-wood buds will survive, which will help with overall size. In a 5-gallon decorative pot, most hydrangeas can easily grow to 3x3' - at that point, I'd plant it.

There are plants I've tested that simply WILL NOT do well if you put them in the ground at a young age. They will grow 1-2 feet and die back to the ground each year. The Merritt's series is one of them. F&E Red and Fantasia are others.

The one thing I've learned: buy bigger or grow bigger, then plant - and you'll be rewarded.


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RE: Cupshaped (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: cupshaped_roses on 08.01.2007 at 05:33 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I am so impressed with some of the Tantau Roses. If they in general are better than Kordes is maybe saying too much. Kordes is bigger and produces more roses and have more introductions each year. But the foliage on Fx roses like "Romanze" is the best I have ever seen. If there ever was such a thing as a 100 percent disease resistant rose this must be it. I am also very impressed with "Gartentr�ume". It looks like and old garden rose or Austin and is very healthy and among one of the most fragrant roses in the world. Look out for this rose!! Also Senteur Royale looks very promising, lavender/violet roses with a unbelievable strong scent and looks very healthy too. Also some of the Hybrid Teas are amazing. "Nostalgie" health and vigor ... so much better and more beautiful than Double Delight and just as fragrant. Many already know the vigor of the red HT Taboo from Tantau. Is is one the most hardy HTs. "Bernstein" has for many years been a very popular dark yellow/amber floribunda (i always think of it as a darker version of sunsprite. "Santana" is a very popular largeflowered red climber in spite of it having very little scent. Lawinia is also becoming more and more popular another low climber. "Aspirin" is a little white very healthy polyantha rose that is becoming more and more popular as a landscape rose, because of its clean white roses and it is always in bloom. "Goldstern" has been the yellow large flowered low climber of choice for years here on the continent. I did not even know that "Ingrid Weibull" was a Tantau rose ..this red floribunda is a regular flowermachine! And was many years one of the most planted roses here in Europe in spite of it beeing scentless. (Here in Denmark now probably replaced by H.C. Andersen). "Polarstern" among the best ever white HTs. Silver Anniversary/Karen Blixen is probably the best ever... not much scent though. I also grow the red Tantau HT "Erotika" ... red vigorous and bush HT with a very good strong fragrance. I have also seen the new rose "Chippendale" well the colour does look like skin with too much selftanning lotion and it seems very healthy and is very fragrant. This year I am going to order some of the new Tantau rose: Askot.
One of the most beautiful dark red/ purple roses I seen. Amazing shape/colour and health. And will probably become just as popular as any Austin rose.

When you look out for these german roses the ADR nomination of a rose is a very good sign. Roses that are ADR have really good hardiness and health in many testgardens all over Germany (in many different climatezones). It has been discussed before here on Gardenweb:

Both Kordes and Tantau Roses lists What Roses that has gotten the ADR label on their websites.

Here is a link that might be useful: GW ADR roses

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RE: Dame de Coeur and Julia's Child roses (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mzstitch on 05.31.2014 at 03:57 pm in Roses Forum

I only have, Julia Child, but here in S.C. zone 7b Julia is between four and five feet. Blooms like crazy, so she may be prettiest in front of Dame de Coeur. Like Kate said, if thats how help me find defines the height its likely your Dame de Coeur will grow taller. This picture is from last spring. by the end of the summer she's hiding the fence top.

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RE: Rambler maintenance (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: michaelg on 05.31.2014 at 10:59 am in Antique Roses Forum

idixierose, what you suggest is exactly how they do it in in those French gardens with pillars and swags. Cut them down right after blooming each year, and they will regrow to bloom the following year. All the garden books from early and mid-20th century recommend this practice. The first time will be rough, but after that it gets easier. Soil needs to be fertilized as you will be removing lots of nutrients from the system with each pruning.

Your garden sounds spectacular--pictures, please

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RE: Top five - anything goes (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: vasue on 05.31.2014 at 04:57 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Health, fragrance & generous repeating bloom being my criteria - along with distinct personality:
Aloha
Golden Celebration
Easy Does It
Abe Darby
America
Dixieland Linda - a year younger than Aloha (from whom she sported) - is catching up quickly in stature & bloom

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Best rooting hormone is....

posted by: new_garden on 05.25.2014 at 05:34 pm in Antique Roses Forum

My new HT Tiara rose is quite healthy and has a fabulous bloom, so I'm tempted to try rooting a cutting. What is the best rooting hormone?

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Re: 'The Generous Gardener'

posted by: michaelg on 05.29.2014 at 01:16 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Mine is a year-plus in the ground from 1-gallon and having a nice first flush on its several long canes. I am anxious to see if it repeats. A plant I observed for a couple of years did not repeat, but it was not deadheaded and carried a huge load of hips from June forward. What is your experience?

Also the plant I observed was free of blackspot, as mine has been so far. Again, how about yours?

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RE: Bright pink Quick Fire bloom! (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: ditas on 09.17.2009 at 05:48 pm in Hydrangea Forum

Hi again Madeyna - if you can hold your excitement & look/wait for Angel's Blush to be available, you might like her better (IMHO) ... even if all you find is just a baby-gal size!!!

AB is PD's baby ... an improved version, if you please ... lacier like her mom but trained to bear herself more upright.

Another to check out is Unique, like the cousins' loose, lace-like panicles but the infertile florets are a bit larger. Mine is just a baby but already I'm adoring her!!! Some like the pom-type blossoms. I prefer the less overwhelming look of the fertile-infertile lace-look & if possible no more than 8" long panicles ... so far Unique tends to have this habit, but again she is still young. QF's rounder, shorter panicles is just perfect for me!

Wishing you all the best on your search & have fun!!! �;)

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RE: Show us your gardens - a photo thread - June 2012 (Follow-Up #64)

posted by: bill_ri_z6b on 07.01.2012 at 08:29 am in New England Gardening Forum

Ann,
I am hoping to get the privacy structure in this year. It will go along one side of the largest patio. The steel pipes are already in place. They will be completely enclosed by square wooden 'columns' which will support a lattice/trellis. I've already bought some vines for it....Gelsmium sempervirens 'Margarita'. I like it because it's one of the few evergreen vines that grow here and so it has leaves all winter, and it's covered in bright yellow looms in spring. I have one that's been on the back neighbor's fence for about 6 years now.

This was taken this year:
Photobucket

A closer look:
Photobucket

I plan to use some annual vines as well, and probably clematis too. Who doesn't like clematis?

Photobucket

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RE: Rose Tone ?? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: AquaEyes on 01.17.2014 at 10:51 am in Roses Forum

Be aware that the standard Tones are not fully organic -- though they are "rich in organics" they also have some synthetic fertilizer added. There are completely organic Tones available, but pay attention to the difference in labeling.

Another similar fertilizer I've come to like is Jobe's Organic Knock-Out Rose Food. I tried it when it was on sale (and thus cheaper, at the time, than RoseTone) to use in my potting mix for new bands. While I'm not sure how effective it is, I do like that the Jobe's contains soil microorganisms, and perhaps that's what made the difference in how fast my bands took off when I used that instead of the RoseTone like I did the year before.

:-)

~Christopher

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Wine and Roses, Open House at Tufton Farm, Charlottesville, VA

posted by: hartwood on 05.26.2014 at 08:59 am in Antique Roses Forum

A great chance to see the garden at Tufton Farm (Thomas Jefferson Center for Historic Plants) Roses and other plants will be available for sale.

Description from the Monticello web site:

Saturday, May 31, 2014, 9:00 am - 3:00 pm
Reservations: Not required

Savor the sights and scents of antique roses in peak bloom while tasting local wines in the garden during this ever-popular event.

Rosarian Connie Hilker of Hartwood Roses will present the best easy-care antique roses for Virginia gardens and answer questions about caring for roses in your own garden. In addition, Monticello's Plant Curator Peggy Cornett will lead rose walks through the gardens discussing the long history of rose cultivation. Monticello's Beekeeper Paul Legrand will talk about the life cycle of the first 18 months of a bee hive, including the major hurdles. From 1-3 pm, don't miss the "Father of Virginia Wine," Gabriele Rausse, as he hosts a tasting of his esteemed local wines. Enjoy guided garden tours, and ask our knowledgeable nursery staff your gardening questions. A wide selection of historic plants, including antique roses, will be for sale. FREE, no registration required; Tufton Farm, 9 am-3 pm.

Here is a link that might be useful: Link to the program for the event.

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RE: Source for copper fittings (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: roccco on 12.29.2005 at 12:27 pm in Garden Accoutrements Forum

You can make a copper cross for non fluid applications such as trellises. For a one half inch fitting using a tee you can bore through the vertical part with a five eight inch diameter metal cutting hole saw. I have done this many times. The inside diameter of a half inch copper is approximately .625". Some five eights hole saws aren't exact in their outside diameters. The last one that I purchases was .639". I simply ground the OD of the teeth until it fit into the copper tee.
Copper crosses are hard to find. The cast type crosses are six to nine dollars each!! I found a Chinese site that had the basic copper ones but they had a minimum order of 1000!!!

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RE: Source for copper fittings (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: greenone on 08.29.2005 at 01:05 pm in Garden Accoutrements Forum

This is a good site,a how-to with pixs of coulpings.

Here is a link that might be useful: millardlumber

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clipped on: 05.23.2014 at 09:49 pm    last updated on: 05.23.2014 at 09:49 pm

RE: Source for copper fittings (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: Pesky1 on 08.14.2005 at 08:33 pm in Garden Accoutrements Forum

I've heard that when you want to bend copper pipe, so as not to get kinks in it, you should fill it with sand first...cap an end off first.

You can get a pipe bender at any hardware store, and should be able to use that to bend the copper. I wonder if you heated it first, using a butane torch, if it would be more pliable?

I know what you mean about the fittings you'd want...I've always wished I could find a four sided fitting.

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clipped on: 05.23.2014 at 09:47 pm    last updated on: 05.23.2014 at 09:47 pm

RE: rusted, flaking vintage metal lawn chairs?? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: BDnBAMA on 04.03.2005 at 12:21 am in Garden Accoutrements Forum

Karen, I refinished some a couple of years ago that had 5 layers of paint on them. I tried a paint remover from Lowe's but it would only remove 1 layer at the time, 'so much scraping'. There just had to be another way so I went to an auto parts store, got some of the remover they use to take the paint off cars & it took all the layers off at one time. I only had to scrape it with a putty knife. I then sanded it smooth & used enamel spray paint. The chairs still look great. Betty

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clipped on: 05.23.2014 at 09:22 pm    last updated on: 05.23.2014 at 09:22 pm

RE: Growing Larkspur? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: lynnencfan on 05.29.2008 at 01:23 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

I haven't had to sow larkspur seed in 4 years - they will readily reseed for me - this is just one of many gardens that I have them coming up in. We also yank out a ton of them each year but I do love them and will always have them.....

Lynne

Photobucket

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RE: Full Sun, Morning Sun, Shade? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: vasue on 05.03.2014 at 02:37 pm in Heuchera Forum

Harryshoe, every time you post, I see your magnificent arbor of Westerland roses! Share your frustration with growers' recommended exposure tags. Agree with Linda & would move them from where they've already shown they can't prosper. Like to audition new plants in proposed garden spots still in their pots, letting the plants show me the exposure they prefer. For a new plant arriving in Spring or early Summer, may take several months as the weather heats up with more intense sun before I'm satisfied the sun/shade ratio is appropriate. Often the plants will get larger pots as needed during the tryout. Usually in September they are planted. This learning period saves me & the plants a lot of aggravation by taking much of the guesswork out of successful siting.

So I'd pot up your heuchs, as is often done for roses & hydrangeas that grow backwards, and experiment with placement to find a cozier fit. You'll also get a chance to see which combos you prefer with their neighbors. Find it much easier to shift pots for a spell than to admit I goofed, dig & replant. Advice from a lazy gardener...

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clipped on: 05.23.2014 at 09:23 am    last updated on: 05.23.2014 at 09:23 am

My Spring vs. Summer Gardens

posted by: Nippstress on 05.21.2014 at 04:04 am in Roses Forum

Hi folks

I love the way gardens can totally transform from spring to summer with dramatically different impacts from the same spaces. I've posted some spring vs. summer contrasts below, which is also a secret excuse to show off the bulbs that turned out quite nice this year. My philosophy is that everywhere there's not another plant there needs to be a spring bulb, and I never quite get there but it's fun trying. Given how many roses I have, there's always an epic battle to maneuver between huge fall roses to plant the bulbs, then not mangle the spring bulbs while planting new roses.

As many roses as I have, I find that nothing gets attention from neighbors and other passers by as the bulbs, particularly the tulips. They're one of the few things in my yard that can actually stop traffic - the neighbors have given tours of my yard to visiting family members and my mailman brought his wife by after hours to see the plants. The summer of 2012 was such a wicked drought that I didn't plant any new bulbs for a change (most of the tulips need replanting if you pack them in this tightly and water enough for roses). The next spring, my husband plaintively remarked, "So when is the garden going to explode?" I was touched that he missed it, since he's not a gardener, and I absolutely love that spring explosion myself, so I put in my usual array of bulbs last fall. All of my daffodils, allium and smaller bulbs are basically perennial, but they don't have the zowie impact of those gaudy tulips, so that's mostly what you'll see in the photos, since the other bulbs are earlier bloomers.

The pictures below show more or less the same garden areas in spring/summer, but it's cheating a little, since the bulbs are from this spring and the roses were from the extraordinarily nice June flush of roses last year. Almost none of that cane survived this last winter, so there's no way the spring flush will be that nice this year. Still, it's interesting to see how crowded the garden can look and yet have hidden surprises waiting to fill in with exuberance in the next garden phase.

Here are the bulbs in the front of the house that are actually sort of color coordinated in apricot, white, and purple - my preteen son noticed this and mentioned how he really thought that was cool (not a common compliment to a parent from a preteen male).

TulipFront3 May 2014 photo TulipFront3May2014.jpg

I don't have a full array shot of the roses in the front bed, but this shows the ones at the end of the bed, with Quadra holding up the arch at the back.

PrairieSunriseQGd June 2013 photo PrairieSunriseQGd.jpg

These are the "hot color" tulips in my hot sun bed that's a zone 6 pocket of my yard, so about 2 weeks before the other beds to bloom. You can see Madame Isaac Periere ready to escape her cage before long, even after being cut to the ground.

TulipsHotSun April 2014 photo TulipsHotSunApr2014.jpg

The summer shot then shows MIP holding her own to the right of the photo along with Savoy Hotel at her feet and various OGRs and HTs mixed in.

OGRHotSunGd June 2013 photo OGRHotSunGd.jpg

This is my shade garden with some Virginia bluebells peeking out at the back and hydrangea sticks I didn't get trimmed yet.

TulipShadeR May 2014 photo TulipShadeRMay2014.jpg

For summer, this is the same bed being taken over by hardy shrubs and hybrid musk roses, with a hint of the climbing roses on the fence at the bottom.

ShadeFrom B's June 2013 photo ShadeFromBs.jpg

This is the back garden where you can see a clear split in the cool vs. hot colors, and the shade section is visible to the rear.

Tulip FarBack1 May 2014 photo TulipFarBack1May2014.jpg

Here are two views of the same bed last summer.

Far Back Right Red/Pink June 2013 photo FarBackREdgarDGd.jpg

Far Back Center R Arch Good June 2013 photo FarBackRwArchGd.jpg

This is the deliberate mishmosh of colors around the mailbox, with Liverpool remembers already staking a claim on its space, again after being trimmed to the ground.

TulipMailbox4 May 2014 photo TulipMailbox4May2014.jpg

Then here's the same corner with Liverpool Remembers and friends in all their glory at two different seasons.

 photo MailboxCornerGd.jpg

MailboxFall with asters August 2013 photo MailboxbedPerennAug2013.jpg

This is another random color mix on the east side between houses with a few roses peeking out in the foreground and some catmint already a good size.

TulipEastSide May2014 photo TulipEastSide1May2014.jpg

Then the East Side Survivors take over in summer, in my cold zone 4 pocket of the yard.

East Side Survivors June 2012 photo EastSideRedcream.jpg

This is by my garage where I try to echo the color of the bricks, but it usually ends up more "hot colored" than I planned.

TulipGarage1 May 2014 photo TulipGarage1May2014.jpg

And here's part of the garage in summer, with Illusion, Sunrise Sunset (pink) and Hot Cocoa in view.

Illusion w Sunrise Sunset June 2013 photo IllusionGarageJune2013.jpg

Here is a delicious mix of the colors further down the garage that actually does echo the brick and show fascinating fading patterns of the original colors of tulip Gavotta.

TulipWoodpileFaded May 2014 photo TulipWoodpileFadedMay2014.jpg
I don't have any corresponding rose pictures for this bed because it's too new, but I love the explosion of the bulbs.

TulipWestSide5 May 2014 photo TulipWestSide5May2014.jpg

Here's my lavender/cream rose bed that also doesn't have particular rose shots to show off (yep, lavenders are wimpy roses in cold zones), but you can see the previous tulip area and the garage in the background as a nice panorama.

TulipVeggie Panorama May 2014 photo TulipVeggiesPanoramaMay2014.jpg

OK, enough showing off, but I do have fun with springtime. I was tempted to add a subtitle to this thread "...why I'm not that into spring blooming roses", but that would be cheating since once bloomers can scatter throughout the season. For me, I like the dramatic transition from a primary focus on bulbs to iris/clematis/allium to roses and other perennials, and that's one of the few gardening benefits we can claim in cold zones. Polar vortex weather can be frustrating, but it creates an unmistakeable change in garden seasons!

Cynthia

P.S. Ingrid, you'd asked me to post some photos of my garden a while back - does this fit the bill for the time being (smile)?

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clipped on: 05.21.2014 at 11:27 am    last updated on: 05.21.2014 at 11:27 am

Peter Beales Roses at Chelsea

posted by: anntn6b on 05.20.2014 at 02:58 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Lots of pictures

One of the most interesting blogs I've seen in a long time. How they built their exhibit at Chelsea (and how good roses look among (even faked) ruins.

Here is a link that might be useful: The whole pretty story

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clipped on: 05.20.2014 at 09:21 pm    last updated on: 05.20.2014 at 09:21 pm

RE: I don't 'do' yellows, but..... (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: ArbutusOmnedo on 05.18.2014 at 01:47 am in Antique Roses Forum

I'm not sure about availability in Australia, but in those colors, the roses that immediately came to mind are:

Allister Stella Grey
Bouquet d'Or
Buff Beauty - Might have the same color issues as others mentioned above.
Clytemnestra
Celine Forestier
Nymphenberg - Not sure if it would fit your color scheme, but it can be covered in a beautiful apricot, light pink, and cream flush.
Crepescule

The Noisettes can get huge, but those seem like they would add some light yellow, apricot, and/or pinkish tones. I'm currently giving what is labeled 'Adam' in the US a try and it is by far the worst of the Teas I've planted. Mildew problems, very little growth, and one horribly balled bloom sum up its time here. Every other Tea has shot off like New Dawn by comparison to Adam.

This past week was unbelievably hot here -just below 100 at times- but we generally get a nice coastal-influenced average of the lower to mid 70s in Summer and a little bit cooler the rest of the year. I think Adam needs more heat than he's getting. I've heard the same is true of Crepescule.

Sombreuil -the Climber and not the Tea 'Mlle. de Sombreuil'- on the other hand has done very, very well for me. The blooms can take on an Apricot tone in the center when opening up that is lovely. I love everything about Sombreuil except for the thorns.

Jay


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clipped on: 05.20.2014 at 07:17 pm    last updated on: 05.20.2014 at 07:17 pm

Pearly Gates - Update

posted by: RabbitRabbit on 05.17.2014 at 06:08 pm in Roses Forum

Hi everyone!

When I first bought climbing Pearly Gates as an impulse buy, I couldn't find much information on this rose. It's now been about 2.5 years and I thought I'd report back on it.

The first couple of springs nothing really happened. I think it's because I had to cut part of the root ball in order to fit it in past a concrete post near my front gate (I'm hoping it will scramble over the top of the arbor). It also didn't bloom much, but this year it's looking much more vigorous. The flowers have little scent, but they are very pretty and long lasting. I don't spray at all, and so far the plant has been fairly clean except for a little black spot. The blooms have a really gorgeous colour - a warm light pink which seems to glow in the right light. Perhaps that's why it's called "Pearly Gates"!

In any case, after 2 years of waiting it's starting to look good. Initially I was kicking myself for not going for a more vigorous climber but I think it's looking like a keeper! :)

This post was edited by RabbitRabbit on Sat, May 17, 14 at 18:15

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clipped on: 05.20.2014 at 06:29 pm    last updated on: 05.20.2014 at 06:29 pm

RE: ever-blooming climbing, very fragrant damascus?? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: Tessiess on 05.18.2014 at 04:18 pm in Roses Forum

If you like damask scent arizsun, you might like to try something I bought at Target, Botanic's Rosewater Toning Spritz, 100% Organic. It was developed with plant extracts from Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. It smells heavenly!!! Very strong damask fragrance. Ingredients: Aqua (water), Alcohol denat, Glycerin, Rosa damascena flower oil, Citronellol.

I grow both Rose de Rescht and Pickering Four Seasons. Both have wonderful scent, but both are also smallish plants and don't climb. RdR has the better rebloom.

I have a magnificent damask with a powerful fragrance called York and Lancaster which I've grown for over 20 years in partial shade (bottom of plant in full shade, top of plant in full sun most of the day). It is now up on my roof but would only be able to climb with lots of support (wants to be floppy). However there is zero rebloom.

You might want to try Portland from Glendora. Wonderful, strong scent. This rose has fairly good rebloom and is quite willing to climb. If you want a headstart in getting it to a large size, I would suggest buying from Antique Rose Emporium in Texas. The shipping can be expensive but that is because they send out such big plants. One of my favorite vendors.

Comtesse O'Gorman is a hybrid perpetual that has a heavy, dreamy scent and climbing tendencies. I don't think it is in commerce at present unfortunately. It is red though, not pink.

Cl. Chrysler Imperial is another worth considering, if you can find it. It's a climbing hybrid tea with powerful fragrance and a liking for heat. Very good rebloom. I had 2 that perished in a wildfire in 2003. I have been unable to find replacements. :(

Another suggestion that you can look up on HelpMeFind is Yolande d'Aragon (I've seen it grow much taller than HMF indicates),

Or check out the damask/portland roses at Greenmantle Nursery and give Marissa a call there. She is very knowledgeable.

Melissa

Here is a link that might be useful: Damask and Portland Roses at Greenmantle


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clipped on: 05.20.2014 at 06:26 pm    last updated on: 05.20.2014 at 06:27 pm

'sigh'. oh, come on #2

posted by: Pallida on 08.03.2012 at 10:35 am in Oklahoma Gardening Forum

Am not using soaker hoses this year, as mine cracked in the heat last year, and one was new, so being forced to hand water and use sprinkler on most desperate beds. This AM my nozzle just quit working. After trying to find problem and going inside to check water pressure, mumbling to myself about calling the water dept., I looked very closely at the nozzle and discovered that it was clogged with ants! Could NOT get them out, removed nozzle and thumb-watered.
So far, no more grasshopper screen damage, but something ate my Gaillardia last night, one of the few things still blooming.
Hummers draining the feeders very quickly, now, and I am beginning to worry about their up-coming migration. Sure hope our Texas neighbors are keeping their feeders full!
Worst drought since Dust Bowl?

Jeanie

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clipped on: 05.20.2014 at 10:20 am    last updated on: 05.20.2014 at 10:20 am

Anyone still grow Blossomtime?

posted by: barbarag_happy on 11.30.2008 at 03:00 pm in Roses Forum

Please tell me how Blossomtime does for you. I have a vivid memory of blooms dating back to plants I saw in Ohio in the early 70's. Looking for a repeat-blooming, healthy climber for a cottage garden; the rose will be planted among substantial shrubs and paired with crinum lilies. Spraying will be occasional at best. Somehow the dusty pink of Rosarium Eutersen or slim repeat on Climbing Pinkie just won't do. This is hot, humid SE VA near the coast so BS pressures are intense. Maybe Kordes has a newer climber??? But the ineffable charm of Blossomtime is engraved on my memory for 30 odd years...!!!

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clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 11:19 am    last updated on: 05.18.2014 at 10:51 pm

Mom's Heaven on Earth

posted by: hosenemesis on 04.24.2013 at 09:14 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

Here it is with Julia Child in the foreground.

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clipped on: 05.18.2014 at 10:10 pm    last updated on: 05.18.2014 at 10:10 pm

RE: Heaven on Earth pics? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: celestialrose on 05.06.2007 at 11:07 am in Rose Gallery Forum

HI there,

I bought HOE last summer and she was wonderful all summer! She bloomed nearly non-stop with amazing flowers, was disease-free and vigorous. She also came through my zone 4 winter (with protection) green almost to the tips which surprised me because floribundas and HT always take a hit here and have to be cut back almost to ground level.

I highly recommend this rose.

Celeste

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket


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clipped on: 05.18.2014 at 09:00 pm    last updated on: 05.18.2014 at 09:00 pm

Heaven on Earth?

posted by: carla17 on 10.31.2007 at 08:10 pm in Roses Forum

I would like to hear about this rose, especially disease resistance.

Thank you,
Carla

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clipped on: 05.18.2014 at 08:44 pm    last updated on: 05.18.2014 at 08:44 pm

Heaven on Earth Rose

posted by: Kevin1962 on 02.01.2012 at 10:33 pm in Roses Forum

Hello,
I'm new here, and new to rose gardening. I've been doing a great deal of research so that I'm as informed as one can hope to be when first getting started.
I live in Zone 4, which will certainly provide both opportunities and challenges when it comes to roses.
I found a photo and description of a rose by the name of "Heaven on Earth" that I would love to try, but cannot find a single source for it. Would any of you who've been working with roses for some time, know of a source for it? Alternately might some of you have this Floribunda, and be willing to share cuttings with me?
Best regards,
Kevin
Le Sueur, MN.

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clipped on: 05.18.2014 at 08:31 pm    last updated on: 05.18.2014 at 08:31 pm

RE: Please compare: Lady Emma Hamilton, Carding Mill, Summer Song (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: the_bustopher on 12.13.2011 at 12:20 am in Roses Forum

I have all of the Austin oranges - Pat Austin, Lady Emma Hamilton, Summer Song, Lady of Shalott, and also Carding Mill. My Pat Austin has shown rose rosette disease, but is responding favorably to aspirin treatments at the moment. I'm hoping for the best on this. It does bloom nicely, but the flowers do not take our summer heat. The bush gets quite tall. It does have a good color, but, again, the flowers fry easily.

Lady Emma Hamilton does not get to be a tall bush. It is more spreading. It does not bloom in large amounts of flowers at any given time, but it has a fairly steady supply of nicely fragrant flowers. It is the most consistent performer of the oranges that I have.

Summer Song was quite pretty in the spring. For summer all three bushes of it that I have didn't do much of anything. I noticed that a couple of them were munched on probably by deer. Something ate the leaves off of them as well as part of the stems, and I have seen deer in the yard at various points. The first year I had these plants they did reasonably well. This past summer, year two, they didn't care for the excessive heat and just sulked. They did, however, throw long canes. The orange color does fade badly in the heat. They did not bloom much at all in the fall either. I think it was more because of the weather.

Lady of Shalott was pretty its first year. It seemed to be going along okay growing and flowering most of the way through the growing season. It pretty well stopped by the end of September, but it had a couple of flowers late. I think this bush will get fairly large. Flower size has been on the small size. Perhaps it will improve some next year.

Carding Mill does reasonably well, but the flowers have been on the small side. It can get to be about 5-6 feet tall here. Its growth habit is fairly cylindrical and doesn't spread much. The apricot color bleaches out to a pink in the heat. Otherwise, overall it has been reasonably consistent here. I have no major complaints about this one. I hope this helps a bit.


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clipped on: 05.18.2014 at 05:18 pm    last updated on: 05.18.2014 at 05:19 pm

Clematis growing on trees

posted by: heliosue on 05.18.2014 at 12:16 pm in Clematis Forum

I'm sure there is a thread somewhere on this forum regarding growing clematis on trees, but I guess my searching skills are not up to the challenge. I want to plant a clematis at the base of a large oak tree. It will get partial sun, but I can't figure out the best type of clematis to plant. I'm concerned about the need to prune? I can't figure out how one would do this as it climbs up the tree. (That is if I don't kill it before it has a chance to grow up the tree.)
Thanks in advance for any advice.

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clipped on: 05.18.2014 at 12:17 pm    last updated on: 05.18.2014 at 12:18 pm

RE: 7A Hardy Fragrant Roses (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: AquaEyes on 08.05.2013 at 02:36 pm in Roses Forum

I, too, am a bit of a fragrance snob, so I understand your motivation. I think you should expand on the petal-count criterium, however, if you want roses whose fragrance can be smelled from a distance.

Generally, the roses whose fragrance wafts (and you should do a search for "waft fragrance rose" on here to find a lot of suggestions) do so because their fragrance comes from their stamens, not their petals. So the more stamens, the more fragrance can be emitted by them. And since double flowers result from stamens mutating into petals, the best wafters tend to have fewer petals. Look into roses related to R. moschata and R. multiflora -- Noisettes, a select few Polyanthas, and Hybrid Musks. And consider R. moschata itself as well. There are, of course, exceptions -- quite a few fully-double flowers are reported to "waft" in some of the threads linked below.

Another thing to consider is fragrant foliage. The benefit of roses with this feature is that they don't need to be blooming for them to perfume the yard. Two species that come to mind are R. rubiginosa (formerly known as R. eglanteria) and its hybrids -- the Eglantines -- as well as R. primula, which is also known as The Incense Rose.

Finally, keep in mind that wafting fragrance is most strong when the weather is warm and somewhat humid. If you live along the East coast, you're all set.

:-)

~Christopher

Here is a link that might be useful: Search for


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clipped on: 05.18.2014 at 10:41 am    last updated on: 05.18.2014 at 10:41 am

Lady Emma or Lady Shalot?

posted by: lesmc on 01.22.2013 at 03:28 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Can I see some discussion on these two gems? I only have room for one here in my Louisville, KY, zone 6 garden. I have grown a couple of Austins and have had moderate luck...enough that I want to try more. The color of both of these is just beautiful to me, but I would so appreciate any information that might help me decide. I will add it to my DA order of England`s Rose and Sharif Asthma.I do spray Bayer every 10 days`- two weeks. A necessity here in blackspot heaven! Interested in bloom production (St. Swithum, not 1 bloom in two years), size (some Austins are much taller here,Golden Celebration) and scent. Thanks to anyone that might respond. Lesley

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clipped on: 05.17.2014 at 09:46 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2014 at 09:46 pm

Best Climber--Penelope, Pax, Felicia, Moonlight?

posted by: dublinbay on 10.14.2013 at 05:58 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I need to replace a climber that mysteriously died this summer and have been looking at some hybrid musks.
Which of the following--Penelope, Pax , Felicia, or Moonlight--would make the best climber--specifically up/around a pillar? (A climber about 6-10 ft tall would work.)

Could you also rate them on the following criteria?

Beauty/attractiveness of bloom
BS-resistance (without or before spraying)
Re-bloom and general floriferousness
Cold Hardiness (I'm in Zone 6 Midwest)
Fragrance (least important)

Thanks for the info. Any pictures would also be welcome.

Kate

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clipped on: 05.17.2014 at 04:51 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2014 at 04:51 pm

RE: Plant pairings with Hydrangeas (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: simcan on 07.07.2011 at 10:24 am in Hydrangea Forum

I would suggest Jack Frost Brunnera (lovely sprays of blue flowers before the Hydrangea are doing anything interesting and very cool foliage the rest of the season) and Rozanne geranium, which flowers with abandon all season and will look great regardless of what colour your ES flowers in...


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clipped on: 05.17.2014 at 01:24 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2014 at 01:24 pm

RE: Combination pics (Follow-Up #111)

posted by: flower-frenzy on 07.01.2013 at 08:06 pm in Perennials Forum

Yes, definitely get Marmalade. It's got ruffled leaves with great substance. (It can even take afternoon sun here without burning!) I think it is what is making "June" appear bluer. I never noticed it until now. I'd like to say I did this on purpose using my vast knowledge of plants and powerful gardening skills...but....lol

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clipped on: 05.17.2014 at 12:29 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2014 at 12:29 pm

RE: Combination pics (Follow-Up #102)

posted by: pam_whitbyon on 07.01.2013 at 01:24 am in Perennials Forum

Thanks so much, funnthsun and boday, I'm honoured. Just don't ask me for a zoom-out of that particular flower bed.. lol.

Here are some pics from June 2010 that I still love and miss. RIP, weigela, lambs ears, and sambucus Sutherland Gold!

 photo DSCF0425sma.jpg

These three have all gone.

 photo DSCF0440crs.jpg

Marguerite daisies with catmint and lambs ears. These annual daisies are so hard to find now but I always loved how they blended in with my perennials:
 photo DSC01873.jpg

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clipped on: 05.17.2014 at 12:17 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2014 at 12:18 pm

RE: Combination pics (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: christinmk on 06.20.2013 at 12:49 pm in Perennials Forum

Oh wow, great pics guys.

I really don't care for white flowers, but that area is gorgeous Karin!

-gazania, I will never get tired of seeing that fab combo!

Here are a few rose combo pics I took the other day:

This one is of 'Carding Mill' rose with Penstemon HR. I love burgundy and peach together. I stuffed a Lysimachia atropurpurea in-between them, hoping to add more burgundy with a pop of silver, but the darn thing is barely a foot tall!! LOL.
june17- Carding Mill rose, penstemon Huskars Red photo june20-13-cmrosepenstemon_zpsfb355ee1.jpg

I really like this combo. Rose Gentle Hermione with Nora Leigh Phlox and Brookside Geranium. Seeing this combo makes me rethink ripping out that geranium. Its great now, but I just hate how rugged this particular one looks after bloom (and yes I am aware there is a thing called 'cutting back', but honestly that is worse than leaving it since that creates a gaping hole in the front of the border! ;-P).
june20- Rose Gentle Hermione, Phlox Nora Leigh, Geranium brookside photo june20-13rosegeraniumphlox_zps31279e7e.jpg

CMK


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clipped on: 05.17.2014 at 11:41 am    last updated on: 05.17.2014 at 11:41 am

RE: Combination pics (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: karin_mt on 06.20.2013 at 12:31 pm in Perennials Forum

OK, full disclosure on the white salvia.

'Snow Hill' is simply a white form of 'Blue Hill.' It's also similar to 'Rose Queen' except it's white. It does not self-seed at all, which the others all seem to do. It is a very pretty plant this time of year with a pleasing form and pure white color. Sadly, after the blooms hit their peak, the whole plant splits apart leaving the middle exposed and bald-looking. At that point it needs a total haircut to regain any sense of good looks but that leaves a huge hole where the plant once was.

This is precisely the type of plant I wish to be done with so I am sad to report that I shovel pruned it. But it's re-sprouting from the roots (for the third time) so if anyone wants it I can send it to you.

Love the other combinations here, with clematis and the geranium 'Karmina,' lovely!


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RE: Combination pics (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: karin_mt on 06.20.2013 at 09:46 am in Perennials Forum

Here is another one in all white.

Salvia 'Snow Hill'
Geranium sanguineum alba
Morden Snowbeauty rose
Unknown white delphinium
Dicentra eximia 'Luxuriant'
'Ivory Halo' dogwood
Hosta 'Elegans'

This spot doesn't exist anymore. Well, the spot exists but I've totally redone the path and garden in a dramatically different style. That's a topic for another day.


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RE: Which variety of Butterfly Bush? (Follow-Up #34)

posted by: rouge21 on 07.29.2013 at 12:15 pm in Perennials Forum

Cheryl, hree are two pictures of my Petite Blue Heaven from last season. As I had wrote in another post it grew spectacularly in its first year. I got it as a mail order plant in May and I put it in the ground also in May. Even though it was small it began to bloom in late July and grew larger than I expected. Here are two pictures...one on July 26 2012 and the other in early October 2012 (as luck would have it it looked best in August for which I have no pictures).

 photo BBush_zpsac25ea40.jpg

 photo IMG_4853_1.jpg

From May 2012 until October 2012 it grew to 3 feet in width and probably a bit more in height.


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RE: Saying hi and asking for all possible advice (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: nashvillegardener_06 on 05.12.2006 at 11:34 am in Tennessee Gardening Forum

Hi, "Agatha" (love that!)--

Welcome to the land of nasty clay soil! I've been dealing with amending soil for years, but even more since I moved into my house last summer--it wasn't new, and had been landscaped professionally (read: commercially, yuck) by the previous owners, but I've pulled out some ugly unruly junipers and such and found the soil to be clay and rocky. Here's what I've used in the past with great success, and have been working into my beds all spring: Mushroom Compost, Dakota Peat (not like your average Home Depot peat moss), Soil Conditioner (available at all Home Depots, Lowe's, etc, it's very fine bark mulch), and Planter's, which was mentioned in one of the above posts. I also throw in PlantTone by Epsoma for good measure. I did this in a bed that I put pansies in last fall, and when I pulled them out last weekend to put in impatiens, I could not BELIEVE the worms! I've been told that it's better to amend the soil than to replace it, and I'm now a believer.

Hope this helps and welcome again to Tennessee. Might I also suggest that if you have sunny spots that really bake and you need a good annual, lantanas are wonderful.

Jana


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clipped on: 05.15.2014 at 12:53 pm    last updated on: 05.15.2014 at 12:54 pm

What have you learned about roses this year?

posted by: charleney on 05.12.2014 at 06:02 pm in Roses Forum

1. Never give up

2. Don't move it unless you have to.

3. Do spray fungicide only.

4. Get the horse manure spread around

5. Water deeply

What your your rose facts that you know for sure???

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RE: Saying hi and asking for all possible advice (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: soeur on 05.11.2006 at 11:14 pm in Tennessee Gardening Forum

"Agathapanthus" made me chuckle.

Builders take the topsoil off your lot and sell it. Then you buy topsoil for your lot. No, it doesn't make sense. This isn't just a TN thing, they do it all over the country from what I can tell. Unfortunately here the subsoil is that clay you mentioned. Raised beds are a good solution. Over time, of course, you can build your soil back up with compost. Gypsum helps loosen tight clay soils, as does a product called Planters II, which is granules of gypsiferous shale. This product both chemically loosens clay and physically breaks it up. Plus it attracts earthworms like a magnet when used in conjunction with organic material. It's available from several Nashville area garden centers.

I saw on your page you're located just east of Nashville. Just FYI, that's not usually regarded as Zone 7b, which is more like, say, Memphis. It's probably safe to figure you're in Zone 6b.

I don't have experience with a lot of stuff on your list, but here's what I do know...

I have a friend growing Agave parryi in Donelson (just east of Nashville). Not sure if his is either of the forms you list, and he offers his some protection in winter, I believe, but you should be able to grow that species.

Hibiscus 'Fantasia' should do fine here. All the Fleming cultivars thrive in our area as far as I know. Rosemary 'Arp' does well as long as you give it good drainage. It's fully hardy here; what usually kills it is winter wet feet. Ditto all lavenders; the L. x media types like 'Provence' and 'Grosso' tend to do better than others in my experience. Some achilleas thrive, but the majority don't like our humid summers. Haven't tried 'The Pearl'; you'll have to experiment.

Any Lonicera semp. will do great here. Same with 'White Pearl' and bronze fennel; you're likely to get Black Swallowtail caterpillers on the fennel, but that's a good thing. :-) Feverfew tends to melt out in summer -- too hot and humid. Annual/biennial poppies are sown in fall for spring bloom. They're toast by June. Forget oriental poppies. It's just too hot here, plus we don't have enough winter for them; they need extended chilling to thrive.

I have my doubts about the hacquetia, since it likes England and the PNW. It's usually safe to say that anything that thrives in Portland, OR is going to struggle here. There are exceptions (e.g. Helleborus x hybridus, Acer palmatum) but not many. Musa basjoo makes it here unless we have a horrific winter, and those are few and far between these days. Oregano does great -- in fact, often *too* great. I grow mine in pots to contain its thuggish tendencies.

Primulas are typically shortlived here. I've gotten P. veris to survive for four years before it croaked, which is pretty good. Most people treat them like annuals. Heucheras do great, both species and the ten thousand-and-counting hybrids. Persicaria 'Red Dragon' does pretty well for me. Haven't grown that Thalictrum, but T. flavum glaucum and T. rochebrunianum do very well in middle TN. Stachys 'Big Ears' is a garden staple in these parts.

Some lilac varieties that do well here in the mid-south are 'Blue Skies' (icy lav-blue), 'Lavender Lady' (straight-up lavender) and 'James McFarlane' (pink). The Korean types like 'Miss Kim' do well, too. Kalmia is native here, but you must plant it and all ericaceous plants carefully (meaning quite high with improved drainage and acid mulch) for success in our clay. Bergenia does OK -- it gets a little ratty looking by mid-July, since it's not a big fan of our heat and humidity. Fothergilla does great. And so does castor bean.

Hope that helps, and welcome to Tennessee!

Marty


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RE: How is your Blushing Bride doing so far? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: orchidacea on 08.16.2009 at 08:40 am in Hydrangea Forum

sunnytop...try to feed your BB with a bloombooster kind of fertilizer, the high phosphates...i do that twice a yr for my hydrangeas, including BB...once in May, and a weak dose one in Aug...it really helps...your plant is getting bigger and sending a lot of food in foliage development...high phosphates, or even an application of Espom salt will help...as for browning, it happens to some blooms, but most of mine has gone thru the multicolor stage..did you check the watering schedule or sun exposure...my BBs got a bit leggy this season from all the cool rain an cloudy skies here in the NE...so I prune the shrubs pretty heavily in July, now they are responding with a ton of growth from the lower buds..some even with small flower buds developing...so try to feed the shrub with some phosphates, Epsom salt in addition if you like -...use 1/2 dose of normal application for this time of the yr, and full dose next May..you should see a difference.


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RE: Please tell me all you know about Blushing Bride (Follow-Up #38)

posted by: mehearty on 07.14.2011 at 08:09 pm in Hydrangea Forum

Ahhhhh, the older, burgundy/green blooms with a new bluish one:

Photobucket

<3


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RE: ES vs Forever Series (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: hydrangeasnohio on 05.20.2012 at 06:32 pm in Hydrangea Forum

Hello joannemb, I am South of you in Summit County. I changed my zone to 6...lol...But hard to believe we will never get a zone 5 winter again. Good to hear the White Out is reliable in our area! Cant wait to hear from people if the Fantasia and Pistachio FE Hydrangeas are worthy also. Would really like to have those in my yard, but no clue where I would put them....lol. I also see FE changed the size of the Together. Used to say 2-3 feet wide. Now says 3-5 feet. I thought mine were pretty much full gorwn, but I guess not. My one spot I had left I put another Together in. I was growing it for someone else in a bucket and they no longer wanted it. I really like the Together, makes 5 of them now in my yard.


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RE: ES vs Forever Series (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: joannemb on 05.09.2012 at 08:17 am in Hydrangea Forum

It is F&E White Out in the picture. Last year, it was a lot tighter (which I liked for where I have them--in pots) but as it has grown, this year it has loosened up. The leaves appeared a darker green last year too. Even with the tighter structure, the blooms were so big and bright that they are hard to miss--it's not like they get 'lost' in the leaves. It is a more "formal" looking hydrangea (which appeals to me) with flowers that are not floppy at all. I will take a picture of the flowers once it is in full bloom---they have pretty ruffled shaped petals and are pure white (light green first, aging to bright white.)


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RE: ES vs Forever Series (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: joannemb on 05.08.2012 at 07:22 pm in Hydrangea Forum

My porch is covered, so it doesn't get a lot of sun. It is fairly shaded... I would say some morning sun 8-11. That sounds like a good spot for it---the blooms stay so long in the spot I have it and don't brown. The shade doesn't affect the blooming though....Here is a picture of how it looks today (I counted 24 buds on this one little potted plant!) 2012-05-08_19-14-59_464, White out


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RE: ES vs Forever Series (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: hydrangeasnohio on 05.07.2012 at 11:00 am in Hydrangea Forum

I bought a Summer Lace last year. Did well, plus rebloomed last year and this year is showing many buds on it. Looks like it will be a solid hydrangea also.

I like the Blushing Bride for how hardy it is & first to bloom in my yard. But is towards the end of my list for favorite hydrangea flowers also. People looking for a care free hardy hydrangea in the North, cant go wrong with this hydrangea. Plus if you want a larger reblooming big leaf hydrangea that blooms white. I think it is your only choice.

Together will rebloom if you prune off the older flowers, but in my yard they never look spent till the first frost in Fall.I had a large limb fall out of a tree and prune one of mine in the middle of the year. It bloomed again and is one of my favorites! The blooms are very sturdy and change so many colors through the year. Depending on the soil they end up being a deep red or deep purple color in Fall. Mine never brown out till frost and have a hard time pruning flowers that still look great.

I saw at our Lowes for the first time a White Out in flower and it did look awesome! I think I might have to try one after your comments joanne...lol..Very unique bright white flower! Looked to have darker green foliage than the rest of FE hydrangeas. I have a very sunny yard and I am running out of spots for hydrangeas...lol. I have a small spot that gets sun till about 1pm or a little later. The darker foliage worries me it might be very sensitive to mid day sun. What kind of sun does yours receive joanne? It made me nervous how the blooms look like ruffled floral hydrangea blooms. At 1st look it was hard to believe it could be hardy in our zone. Looked to good to be true....lol


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RE: ES vs Forever Series (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: joannemb on 05.06.2012 at 07:41 pm in Hydrangea Forum

I have Blushing Bride and Endless Summer and they are very reliable bloomers. Last year I tried Forever's "Together" and "White out." The Together is a double hydrangea---very pretty, but it bloomed once and that was it. So much for re-blooming. :( "White out" on the other hand....OMG do I love this hydrangea. I often wonder why it isn't discussed more on this board. I have 4 of them in pots on my front porch flanking the door and they are BE-A-UTIFUL. Bloomed over and over into October. I overwintered the pots....put them in the garage and watered them very sparingly throughout the winter months. They are the only hydrangeas in my yard right now that are pretty Lol because of NE Ohio's early warm up/frost. They are just gorgeous and LOADED with buds -- one is just starting to bloom. I know I am in the minority, but I am not a huge fan of Blushing Bride. The flowers on white out are just prettier and such a bright white (in my opinion) and for me, she blooms like crazy.

Overwintering the hydrangeas in pots was wonderful! I had instant lush plants on my porch in May....around the time when I'm usually filling my flower boxes with annuals and they look so puny for the first month. I used to have to fill those pots up with annuals and instead saved a ton of money by overwintering and bringing them back on out!


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clipped on: 05.13.2014 at 09:08 pm    last updated on: 05.13.2014 at 09:08 pm

RE: Forever & Ever Hydrangea Pics From This Year (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: macgyver2009 on 08.20.2009 at 06:54 pm in Hydrangea Forum

What sun exposure are your F&E's planted in? I have F&E, Peppermint and Together that I planted last summer and mine look nothing like yours. I only got 2 blooms off of my F&E and none off of the other 2. Peppermint formed buds, but the flowers never had any petals after they opened. It looked very strange. My plants are also much smaller. They are in full sun until 2:00 p.m. and I am wondering if I need to move them to more shade. Like yours, mine died to the ground this winter. I have a Let's Dance planted in the same sun exposure and it has been wonderful. It was loaded with flowers most of the summer and is 3 times the size of my F&E's. Your pictures look great. Thanks for sharing.


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RE: Too much shade for F&E Together? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: gardengal48 on 11.25.2011 at 01:39 pm in Hydrangea Forum

As long as the plants receive some amount of direct sunlight, they should be fine. In fact, early day sun is much more preferrable than afternoon sun, which is much stronger in intensity. Usually, an eastern facing location is pretty much ideal. Just avoid locations that offer no direct sunlight or provide deep, heavy shade - flowering will be quite sparse, if at all, under those kinds of conditions.

Remember that the degree of "blueness" your bigleaf hydrangeas provide will be dependant on soil chemistry. Annual applications of aluminum sulphate (follow directions) should ensure sufficient acidity and access to adequate levels of aluminum. It is the access to aluminum that provides the blue coloring. But too much can be counterproductive, even dangerous.


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RE: Too much shade for F&E Together? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ejr2005 on 11.28.2011 at 11:08 am in Hydrangea Forum

I've planted a lot of hydrangeas over the last two or three years, including one F&E Together. Of all of my hydrangeas it seems to be the least tempermental. From when I first planted it it has never wilted and has had beautiful flowers with interesting colors and color changes. Mine is on the North-East side of the house under large oak trees. It gets some sun but not lots.

The only negative I can think of is that it is small and slow growing. I like small hydrangeas but this one is so perfect I actually wish it was bigger!


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RE: Deja Bloom Hydrangea (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: Illinois-John on 09.12.2013 at 12:24 pm in Hydrangea Forum

I have seven of these and have had mixed results. I'm in 5b, just north of Chicago.

Pros- durability, small size and ease of care. I have them in full sun and in morning sun only.

Flowers are less prevalent than I'd like. The plants in full sun did not flower at all the last two years. They are getting moved in spring or going to a friend.

Those in morning sun flowered, but pretty sparse. Small, thin blooms and maybe 5 flowers per plant. Being their fourth spring, I had higher expectations.


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RE: Deja Bloom Hydrangea (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: dondeldux on 09.07.2013 at 04:18 pm in Hydrangea Forum

I've had my F&E Together for several years now and it has finally come into it's own. When I bought it it was a beautiful strong pink and it's taken 3 or 4 years to arrive at it's current color, a dark almost navy blue with purple. It gets quite a bit of sun and it doesn't bother it at all. A rather dwarf plant which is good for me and one of my very favorites. I couldn't walk buy it this summer without caressing the flowers! I have a second smaller plant (from cuttings) growing in almost full shade and it seems to tolerate shade too..
Mine has now lost all of the blue and is taking on it's greenish pink antique fall colors..A truly wonderful variety!

Donna


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RE: Deja Bloom Hydrangea (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: dondeldux on 09.13.2013 at 05:41 pm in Hydrangea Forum

I will agree that these don't give you the big bang from a distance the way most of the brightly colored mop heads do and as the flowers aren't globular but rather flat and irregular I think they need to be admired from close range which I am happy to do...I haven't yet fed any of my hydrangeas but am planning to start next spring. I do remember when I first bought my F&E Together the flowers were considerably larger than they are now so I'm hoping that a little food with help.

This is my plant in 2009 when I first bought it and it spent the first summer in a large pot on a shaded deck. The flowers were just huge and people couldn't believe it was actually a hydrangea!
Donna


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clipped on: 05.13.2014 at 01:29 pm    last updated on: 05.13.2014 at 01:30 pm

Ghislaine de Feligonde

posted by: duchesse_nalabama on 03.19.2008 at 04:29 pm in Antique Roses Forum

How do you grow this climber? How large is it for you? thank you for any information.

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clipped on: 05.13.2014 at 11:17 am    last updated on: 05.13.2014 at 11:18 am

Vivien Leigh's garden overlooking the pond

posted by: anntn6b on 04.22.2014 at 11:38 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Article about the sale of the late actress' home and garden.

Worth a look for the pictures of the grounds (and her massive white climber).

Here is a link that might be useful: Vivien Leigh's country home

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clipped on: 04.27.2014 at 10:52 am    last updated on: 04.27.2014 at 10:53 am

Easter at Descanso

posted by: kittymoonbeam on 04.21.2014 at 04:01 pm in Roses Forum

I didn't have my camera ready but I will be back next weekend for the peak bloom of the DA roses. They are looking good now that the deer fence has gone up. I wore my striped bustle dress for Easter and my friend took a picture with his cell phone. I always wanted to be in a Monet style garden photo. One day hopefully I'll see his garden. Last year only Lady Banks was blooming but this year, everything is just about at peak spring bloom with only the DAs still to go. And Lady Banks was still blooming....she's a wonder!

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RE: Wide shots of your whole garden (Follow-Up #57)

posted by: daisyincrete on 04.09.2014 at 03:56 am in Roses Forum

I have spent ages looking through these photos. There are a lot of beautiful gardens out there.
I miss visiting gardens. It doesn't happen here, but these photos make me feel that I am in your gardens. Thank-you.
Here are a few of mine.
Daisy

013
Midwinter

march 2013 013
Spring

006

030

044

may 2013 115

may 2013 030 - Copy

may 2013 022 - Copy

may 2013 003 - Copy

may 2013 144

may 2013 070

may 2013 068

may 2013 061

may 2013 049

may 2013 033

may 2013 030

april-may 2013 064

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clipped on: 04.11.2014 at 09:55 am    last updated on: 04.11.2014 at 09:55 am

America and Pearly Gates--good relations

posted by: kathy9norcal on 05.23.2010 at 01:11 pm in Rose Gallery Forum


(America on left and below)


Gillian Blades, has lavender edges that aren't so visible here.

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clipped on: 04.10.2014 at 11:24 pm    last updated on: 04.10.2014 at 11:25 pm

Your favorite companions for WHITE roses

posted by: twinkletoad on 03.27.2014 at 11:27 am in Roses Forum

I know that white tends to go with everything, but what are your very favorite companion plants to go with your white roses?

I was thinking white garden phlox and something with variegated leaves might be pretty for a monochromatic look.

I'd love to hear your ideas!

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clipped on: 03.29.2014 at 10:12 pm    last updated on: 03.29.2014 at 10:12 pm

Spring flush 08: An Extravaganza! (Front yard 1)

posted by: pappu on 07.07.2008 at 02:50 am in Rose Gallery Forum

I have finally some time to post some images. A stellar spring flush and I am still drunk from the incredible show put on by my roses. This year I realised that one should never truely judge a rose until it's third year and I take back all the bad things I said about the austins..a full grown bush in spring flush is truely a revelation. I have literally taken hundreds of pictures and can keep posting forever, but here are some of the pics from the front yard...neon bright colors that can stand up to the blazing south and west sun (the austins and the pastels are all in the east facing backyard)..I have tons of more pics, will keep posting as time permits..Thanks for watching

Purple pavement
img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v622/nadoni/20080602_aseemreddressjune308_4333.jpg">

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clipped on: 03.26.2014 at 11:45 pm    last updated on: 03.26.2014 at 11:46 pm

And the winners are... Spirit of Freedom?

posted by: sarah_rc on 05.29.2007 at 01:32 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Hello! I'm brand new posting to this website... I'm so glad to have found that I'm not the only one obsessed with old fashioned roses!!! This is great! I've thoroughly enjoyed reading the posts and since I've only been rose gardening for 2 years I've learned a lot. The reason I'm posting this is, well, I guess I wanted to stop lurking and say "Hi", and ALSO I wanted to -- Defend my rose! My first and favorite (although a young rose with an inexperienced rose gardener) is Spirit of Freedom! She is a newly debuted rose from David Austin and I see she's not even a contender on your lists! aahhh! ha ha, ha! Well, it seems she has a bad rap here on this site and I think you are all missing out! My first bush has been in the ground 2 years (this is her 3rd spring here) and she's huge. I keep chopping her back to the 5 ft fence and she just springs up all the more. If permitted she could easily be a 10 ft climber. Last year I put 2 more SOFs in beside her and they are growing faster than the first. She tends to shoot up 1 or 2 canes the first year and then the second year go crazy. Yes, okay, if the buds get too wet they ball, BUT but but - IMO this is a small sacrifice to be made when growing a delicious, delicately sweet scented rose with some 200 petals! AND let me clarify, it takes more than a couple showers to cause this!!! (I was inspired to post this after reading Molineaux's "love letter" to cl. cotilde soupert...a rose I must have now too...I just realized there was life outside David Austin's website! What heaven! There's more! My poor husband dosen't understand, I just put in 5 more bushes...) ANYWAY, maybe I'm too new at this, maybe I don't have enough other roses growing to compare my girls to, and maybe it's just my first love, but I think SOF is the sweetest, most beautiful rose out there. They're just starting to bloom and I shot some pictures...

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

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clipped on: 03.25.2014 at 01:28 pm    last updated on: 03.25.2014 at 01:29 pm

Anne Belovich's Garden

posted by: mendocino_rose on 03.24.2014 at 09:57 am in Antique Roses Forum

For those of you who have been reading about Anne's rambler collection here is a link to a lovely montage of her garden.

Here is a link that might be useful: Roses in the Air

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clipped on: 03.24.2014 at 04:05 pm    last updated on: 03.24.2014 at 04:05 pm

Ruth's Rose Garden at Florida Southern College

posted by: malcolm_manners on 03.23.2014 at 12:55 am in Antique Roses Forum

The garden was near peak bloom this week. New photos are posted!

Here is a link that might be useful: Link to rose garden photos on flickr

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RE: lifespan of wooden rose supporting structures and HOAs (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: vasue on 03.18.2014 at 02:28 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Wondering why you're thinking of reinforcing copper with rebar? Plain copper pipe seems cheaper than the copper tubing & is inherently strong. The tubing can be used for decorative elements or circling a pipe structure to tie it togeher - not really structural support.

With the corrosion copper causes to baser metals like rebar, believe you're talking galvanic action & are right not to combine the two. If you slip plastic tubing over the rebar to isolate the surface from contacting the copper, you may be able to avoid the situation. Might be worth researching if you prefer that construction technique. Have seen hoses & plastic tubing threaded over rebar arches before installing to give a less rustic appearance & protect from rust. They can be sealed at the bottom & slipped into anchor holes. But the rebar & the tubing must be bone dry & done on a low humidity day to guard against sealing moisture in. If you're thinking of using the rebar just to help shape the copper & not for any structural reason, don't see why its eventual flaking to nothing inside the copper would matter.

Farmers here use locust posts for fencing & char the bases that go below ground to preserve them. Enlarging a garden bed here, found a charred 10" diameter tree trunk buried a foot below ground. Took most of a day to dig & pull it out. Heard some of the trees here that were cleared off when this house was built were burned on site. It's against code to bury such partially burned wood, since it doesn't decompose. At any rate, that trunk looked as if it was petrified. Couldn't even get a chainsaw through it! So there's tradition behind this method.

Only a couple wooden garden structures over the years, since I worried about upkeep & rot. Did erect a plain untreated tall 6x6 post for a condo birdhouse 20+ years ago. Triple-coated it on all surfaces with Thompson's stain & then mounted it on a metal fence post anchor. The birdhouse fell apart many years ago, but the post still stands.

We had cedar outdoor furniture for years that we oiled annually to maintain. Without that protection, it would become rough & crack - not great for comfort. Still use the Thompson's tinted stain on the few wooden elements outside - the mailbox post, the finial for the copper ogee trellis, the handle of an iron hose reel - giving them another coat after washing down maybe every 7-10 years. It's certainly preserved them. Like the dark gray called Colonial Blue - can't see the "blue" in it, but it gives depth to the gray - because it fits in well with natural garden colors. Figure a copper cap on an upright post treated with the Thompson's tinted stain would last many years if installed with a fence anchor. (Use copper nails or screws to prevent that galvanic action.) We've used the tapered as well as the corkscrew types & they've remained sturdy. Last time we put up a bird feeder post mounted with an anchor, my husband put one of those vinyl sleeves over it & that's lasted nicely 15 years. Bears come by & shimmy the post to remove the feeder & it stays straight. I hose it down once a year & it still looks new.

Two hefty wrought-iron arches put in 16 years ago lost their original powdercoat just last year. I preferred to just oil them (oil rubbed with a rag), but my DH decided to spray them with heavy-duty Rustoleum. We'll see how that stands up. Wrought iron garden furniture needs a wire brush & repaint every 4-5 years. I may just strip & oil them next time that job comes up. Two heavy 3-fold (that store flat & pull out to form 3 sides) 5' iron trellises that came oiled still look great 10 years later with no further treatment.

My favorite for install & forget is the copper pipe. The verdigris that forms protects the metal. An identical circumference steel pipe marked for the depth desired, pounded in to create the holes with a level & pulled straight out allows the copper pipes to be slipped in firm footing. They're pricey to buy, but not difficult to make. Junk yards can be sources of used copper & other materials. Bought a bunch of those cheaply made painted metal tube arches that come in pieces for assembly with screws when found on clearance for $5 a pop. Wanted to play with arches set in a circle & figured that was a cheap way to get a 3-D model before laying out for a copper one. Left two up a couple years now & surprised they still look good apart from the screws starting to rust. Maybe I'll put them all back up, plant them & then replace them one at a time with copper while the climbing roses grow their roots. Really liked the fairy ring look.

Hope this longwinded response helps you with the construction phase of your new garden!



Here is a link that might be useful: Fence Anchors

This post was edited by vasue on Tue, Mar 18, 14 at 15:09

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clipped on: 03.19.2014 at 11:59 am    last updated on: 03.19.2014 at 11:59 am

RE: OT rose suggestions for fountain with hedge (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: vasue on 03.15.2014 at 03:01 pm in Antique Roses Forum

We've enjoyed a similar fountain for 35 years, bought new when it was a huge splurge. Great points about the varying shadows it casts & reducing the flow. There's a reducer clamp fitting for the tubing that adjusts with a screw. We've run it with a Little Giant pump, replaced periodically over the years when we forget to detach or protect it over Winter. Found the pump rated next powerful for height & volume than necessary lasts longer. Learned to encase the electrical plug with those clear snap-on weather protectors & jury-rigged the pump housing the same way so we don't have to remove it during the cold when we stop it from running.

Water freezing solid in the basins can spall or crack the concrete. Still have one of those coated vinyl fountain protectors that slips over the whole thing & cinches closed at the base. Getting lazy of late, found that if we let leaves accumulate in the basins, even when the water freezes it hasn't affected the concrete (yet). Low was 1 degree this season without damage. We do use a nontoxic fountain sealer every 10 years or so to make the concrete less porous, and scrub it out with a birdbath brush when we start it up again in Spring.

To even out the flow from basin to basin, also use a nontox clear outdoor silicone that comes in a tube meant for pond waterfalls. Applied at the ends of the drip grooves where needed, it's invisible under the water & helps tune the music of the drips. The hardest trick is getting the whole fountain leveled & tuned whenever I get the urge to move it - not often!

Little of this relates to your question, but hope it may be helpful. No spray from the fountain itself when adjusted, just kicks up sometimes from high winds. Since those are usually accompanied by rain here, not problematic. Branches of roses nearby clear the largest shell basin by 3' so don't whip against it in winds or when birds land on them before hopping over. Two tall roses frame mine on diagonal to the fountain placed at the back of a mixed perennial bed which slopes up a foot at the side of a walkway. The base of the supporting column is ringed by dark green moss that grows naturally here in shade & sun, relocated to that area. Other plants start low & feathery to flow down that broad slope past the rose high points & reach a mid-height billow at the far ends. There's a 2' square bluestone flag set on diamond as a path to the center of the fountain, which children & I use to reach into the fountain & also allows access for filling & maintenance.

Your fountain & design plans for surrounding it are charming. Sure it will delight you for many years to come!

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clipped on: 03.19.2014 at 11:43 am    last updated on: 03.19.2014 at 11:43 am

The Body Count....

posted by: buford on 03.15.2014 at 02:25 pm in Roses Forum

ok, just finished pruning my roses. Tough winter. Here is a list of who didn't make it (damn you Polar Vortex)

Mr. Lincoln
Fragrant Cloud
Peace
Simply Marvelous
Moondance
Sultry
Lasting Embrace
Yellow Ribbons

On life support:

Diana Princess of Wales
Comte de Chambord
Lady Penzance
Double Delight
Tropical Sunset

Look dead, but are own root so hopefully will come back

Marie d'Orleans
Rosette d' Lizzy

Luckily I was able to get my pot ghetto inside for the worst of the cold weather, so I do have some replacements. It still hurts.

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clipped on: 03.18.2014 at 03:27 pm    last updated on: 03.18.2014 at 03:27 pm

Rose Fragrance

posted by: Sara-Ann on 03.09.2014 at 10:15 pm in Roses Forum

Do you have roses that are supposed to be fragrant, but can never detect much fragrance, if any from them? Four that I can think of that I have or have had that are described as having a strong fragrance and I have never detected fragrance from them are -

Tropicana
America
Folklore
Miss All American Beauty

I was wondering if any of the above are fragrant for you? And are there others that you have experienced as not being fragrant, but are supposed to be? Lack of fragrance is not a deal breaker, especially if the rose has other strong attributes, but it is kind of disappointing when you're expecting it to be fragrant.

I know I don't have any problem detecting fragrance, because there are several I have that are always fragrant. The top ten are -

Pink Peace
Perfume Delight
Buxom Beauty
Firefighter
Sunsprite
Chrylser Imperial
Double Delight
Tiffany
Forgotten Dreams
The McCartney Rose

I have quite a few other fragrant roses too, but the above mentioned are probably the most consistently fragrant ones. I do realize fragrance is subjective, but I am just curious about this.

This post was edited by Sara-Ann on Sun, Mar 9, 14 at 22:45

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Not Black Baccara - what is it?

posted by: Nippstress on 03.11.2014 at 10:05 pm in Roses Forum

Below is a picture of a rose that came labeled from Palatine two years ago I think that's definitely not Black Baccara (a dark burgundy rose). There's the outside chance that my tags could be mixed up with Peach Beauty from Vintage, but ironically the rose below is too apricot to be Peach Beauty (a mostly pink Boerner rose). There are too many apricot roses in Palatine's array for me to ID it correctly, so I'd welcome your help.

I quite like this rose, but I'd like to get it labeled correctly. I'm wondering if it might be a climber, since it has an extremely lax habit draped along the ground for several feet before it decides to bloom on the end. I could work with that, even though it's at the front of the bed, since there's a fence within a few feet that it could probably reach with help (being a lazy soul and unlikely to move it). More ideas on ID would be very nice.

Cynthia

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clipped on: 03.12.2014 at 11:37 am    last updated on: 03.12.2014 at 11:38 am

Help please :)

posted by: jbush0806 on 03.07.2014 at 09:23 pm in Virginia Gardening Forum

Can anyone tell me what kind of flowers are in this?

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clipped on: 03.09.2014 at 10:49 am    last updated on: 03.09.2014 at 10:49 am

Zone 5 pale yellow climber recommendations?

posted by: angua85 on 02.28.2014 at 06:17 pm in Roses Forum

I am searching for a pale yellow climbing rose that is hardy in SE Michigan, which was I think once zone 5 but probably the artic this year :p If that's an easy request, I would like fragrance as its going to go along the sides of a deck.

And if you know of such a beast, where may I buy one?

Thank you so much-
Stay warm!

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clipped on: 03.07.2014 at 11:35 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2014 at 11:35 pm

OT Roses and Lavender

posted by: poorbutroserich on 03.03.2014 at 05:18 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Hi. It's freezing here too. Have a question. I know roses and lavender are frequently suggested as companions but I thought lavender needed much sharper drainage than roses....
Since my roses are so young I really stay on top of them and watering...I drowned some of my salvias last year.
Is there a way to plant lavender with sharp drainage near a rose where the soil should be kept moist?
Wonder if we will have a long cool spring this year or just jump into the 80s?
I'm supposed to pick up some 1Gs own root at the vendor night for the NRS tomorrow. Don't see that happening as the expected low is 18...
Susan

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clipped on: 03.07.2014 at 05:04 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2014 at 05:04 pm

for leahcate (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: hoovb on 05.31.2009 at 01:30 am in Rose Gallery Forum

Thanks to all for the kind comments! More flowers have opened on LEH--I should take another picture.

leahcate, not sure which pictures those were, here's the garden tour slideshow from last year, hope that helps.

Here is a link that might be useful: garden tour link

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clipped on: 02.28.2014 at 10:41 am    last updated on: 02.28.2014 at 10:41 am

RE: Strike it RIch--L'IL TROOPER in the heat (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: pat_bamaZ7 on 06.17.2013 at 03:14 pm in Roses Forum

Strike it Rich thrives in our high heat and high humidity here in Alabama, too. Blooms change from golden edged in red to take on more red as they age. Blooms in the attached pic are about a week old and still looking good.

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clipped on: 02.18.2014 at 08:59 pm    last updated on: 02.18.2014 at 08:59 pm

The Glorious Abe Darby

posted by: suebelle on 04.17.2012 at 11:10 am in Rose Gallery Forum

Abe Darby grown as a climber. I love this rose for beauty and fragrance.

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clipped on: 02.18.2014 at 03:51 pm    last updated on: 02.18.2014 at 03:51 pm

RE: What was your favorite climbing rose bush in 2009? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: kathy9norcal on 04.04.2010 at 12:46 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

It is hard to pick just one, but how about my trellis which has both America and Pearly Gates, one on each end, with clematis interwoven. That is Graham Thomas on the far right.

Oh, let me also add Dublin Bay, too. I like that it stays manageable for me.

Kathy

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clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 03:08 pm    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 03:08 pm

RE: Westerland is in bloom (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: jess2132000 on 04.16.2010 at 11:52 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

My 4 year old Westerland
Westerland
westerland

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clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 02:48 pm    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 02:48 pm

RE: Westerland or Royal Sunset better for zone 7B? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: harryshoe on 05.03.2013 at 12:47 pm in Roses Forum

Westerland performs great here in SE PA. Very vigorous. I cut it back hard each year but it usually grows to 10'. It blooms throughout the summer. I spray it 4 or 5 times each season with fungicide. Lots of new growth at the bottom this year.

 photo arbor1.jpg

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clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 02:44 pm    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 02:44 pm

Pretty Peach Silk

posted by: kittymoonbeam on 04.10.2013 at 09:41 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

I don't have many climbers or peachy/ orange roses but this one I truly love.

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clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 01:35 pm    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 01:36 pm

Deep pink or apricot climber

posted by: coralb on 05.22.2010 at 05:25 pm in Roses Forum

Hi everyone,

My husband is making me another trellis for by birthday so I need to start thinking about a rose to put on it. I already have America, Carding Mill (which I love), and Abraham Darby (which I am very luke warm about). I would like to get either a deep pink or apricot climber for the new trellis.

I need a rose that does well in zone 7 and would like one with excellent rebloom (or continual bloom). Fragrance is optional. While I do spray for BS I don't do it as often as I should so some resistance is a plus.

I am considering Zephrine Drouhin. Any other suggestions? Also, anyone in the Carolinas grow ZD? How does it perform for them?

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clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 12:57 pm    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 12:57 pm

RE: ratings for Reconciliation, Royal Pageant (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: littlesmokie on 12.19.2009 at 04:41 pm in Roses Forum

I have grown Compassion (7 years) and Royal Pageant (5 years.) Both have very good disease resistance no spray in a part sun/shade growing area.

Compassion blooms a lot more, the fragrance is stronger than Royal Pageant, and Compassion lasts better in the landscape and as a cut flower.

The flowers of Royal Pageant blow really fast but they have a nice ruffled sort of look (similar to-but smaller than-Just Joey if you are familiar with that rose's open bloom.)

The fragrance of Compassion is similar to my nose to Tiffany and Elle, if you are familiar with those roses. It's one of my favorite fragrances, but it's NOT a typical strong damask/"rose" scent. I think of it as sweet fruity, maybe a bit peachy? but only moderate in strength.

Reconciliation would be much smaller than either Compassion or Royal Pageant. Compassion can be grown/pruned as an upright self-supporting shrub, but in my experience Royal Pageant wants to grow much larger (and does so at the expense of producing flowers when I've tried to curtail it's growth) and does need some support.

I purchased Compassion ownroot from Heirloom Roses and Royal Pageant (whose true name is Della Balfour, I believe Heirloom renamed it?) from Pickering on multiflora rootstock.

Hope that helps...
Dawn

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RE: Show off! (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: roseseek on 04.27.2011 at 02:58 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Ingrid, I HAD it in my old Newhall garden years ago. I shared it with Sequoia and Ashdown, and Vintage has it on custom propagation. I don't know if Burling still has it as she's had to reduce what she actively grows to keep current with what sells, but you might email her to find out. It really IS a very good climbing sport of a Hybrid Tea. So many of them were once blooming and terribly stiff and prickly. This one is a bit stiff, but the smooth canes and regular, frequent flowering makes up for much of that. I propagated it from a very old plant at The Huntington which was on one of the iron arches on the main path through the Rose Garden. I didn't notice it there the last time I was in that garden. It's worth obtaining for cutting and garden enjoyment. Columbia was a seedling of Ophelia and sports almost as frequently as she did. Kim

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RE: Help to choose a pink-ish large flowered cl. (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: daisyincrete on 12.04.2013 at 12:48 am in Antique Roses Forum

Nik. I have The New Dawn climbing through my apricot tree.
It is very vigorous and flowers well in spring, but not profusely at other times.

042

On the other hand, Colombian Climber which came from Peter Beales Roses, flowers profusely most of the time.
It does not get as big as The New Dawn. Mine is about 12-15 feet/ 4-5 metres, but flowers a lot more.
It's perfume is lovely and always there. I can go out in the middle of a chilly winters night or in the afternoon of the hottest day of the year and it's perfume is always gorgeous.

Here it is in spring 2008. This is it's first ever bloom.
Since that day, it has never,ever,ever had a day without blooms.

colombian climber photo P5110055.jpg

colombian climber photo P5140063.jpg

A year later.
 photo 057.jpg

...and with Clematis Perle d'Azur.

sandy5 110
Daisy

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clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 11:57 am    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 11:57 am

RE: Help to choose a pink-ish large flowered cl. (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Nippstress on 12.03.2013 at 11:32 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Some of the climbers we in the US suggest might not be available in Europe, so hopefully more of the continental folks will chime in. Pink climbers that I find lovely and pretty trouble free are Nahema (a very double, fragrant and fast growing Delbard), Compassion (pink, troublefree, and fragrant), and Aloha (big stiff canes so you have to train them early, but typical "rose looking" flowers). I don't think any of these are known for rust or mildew but I'm a bad judge since we don't get those problems. Suzy (campanula) will have a different spin on Nahema since it doesn't do well for her in England.

You're definitely in the right forum if you like roses with history, and that would include some of the darker pinks like Reines des Violettes or Madame Isaac Periere (fragrant to die for, but probably a darker pink than you like). Madame Carolyn Testout is a very strong and vigorous light pink climber that I love, and it has some history. I don't know how long Viking Queen has been around, but it's a real keeper for me as well. Most of the lighter pinks that are OGRs are liable to be noisette or tea types that I can't grow, so I'll let warm weather folks chime in from here.

Of course, New Dawn is a classic climber, but it does have a reputation for being a thorny house eater in your type of climate.

Cynthia

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clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 11:56 am    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 11:56 am

RE: Best Pink OGR or Austin ? I am overwhelmed.. (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 07.07.2013 at 07:27 am in Antique Roses Forum

Hi Lynn (desertgarden): I saw that you put Golden Celebration as GREAT in your garden. I have both Golden Celebration and Evelyn. GC is a wimp compared to Evelyn when it comes to heat.

Evelyn is very aggressive as own-root. I mounted soil on top to winter-protect her in my zone 5a, and she rooted all over, so her base is huge. I moved GC, and its own-root was big ... as big as Dr. Huey that I dug up.

Evelyn bloom lasts longer in the vase than Golden Celebration ... thicker petals mean more heat-tolerant. Below is Evelyn blooms, picked at 100 degrees during our drought last summer.

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clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 11:52 am    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 11:52 am

RE: Best Pink OGR or Austin ? I am overwhelmed.. (Follow-Up #31)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 07.07.2013 at 07:34 am in Antique Roses Forum

Evelyn own-root is actually better than grafted on Dr. Huey, Own-root is both a horizontal spread, and vertical spread, so it gets both surface water and deep water. Its leaves are thick, no disease-whatsoever (as own-root), the base of the plant is huge:

 photo springevelyn.jpg

Evelyn as own-root is aggressive in getting water to break out in multiple buds on top. See below:

This post was edited by Strawberryhill on Sun, Jul 7, 13 at 7:37

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RE: Best Pink OGR or Austin ? I am overwhelmed.. (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: luxrosa on 07.04.2013 at 10:16 pm in Antique Roses Forum

These fragrant pink roses thrive in Oakland, California, which has summer temps commonly in the 80's F. and less often in the low 90's.
in no spray gardens.
The first has an old fashioned bloom shape, but is not an O.G.R. nor an Austin;
'Blossomtime' I bought this from hortico.com after reading one authors description of how the buxom pink blossoms reminded him of La France.
Blossomtime can be grown as a self supporting bush, it is very leafy and an attractive plant, and can be kept at c. 5 1/2 feet tall by 5 to 6 feet wide, or as grown a climber.
Of all the roses I pick for bouquets Blossomtime lasts longer in the vase or bush than most roses Austin or Old Garden Teas.
-rich moderate to intense fragrance. The fragrance is sweet and reminds me of damask rose scent.
The blooms have an old fashioned shape are large and have very pretty shading from pale pink to medium pink, re-bloom is very good as a climber, and faster as a shrub. It is one of the most disease resistant roses in my no spray garden. helpmefind.com/roses has photos
White Maman Cochet' is not a pure pink rose but the guard petals are pink, it is one of my favorite roses of all. The bush form has much faster re-bloom, the climber blooms in spring, summer and again in the autumn, here in Oakland.
Grandmothers Hat is a fantastic rose, beautiful and easy to care for. it has one of the longest bloom seasons of any rose of its class. To me the scent of Grandmothers Hat is less strong than Baronne Prevost, ,Glendora, or La France and Blossomtime but it is still moderate and a very lovely scent. I wish I had half a dozen Grandmothers Hat's'
Baronne Prevost is very fragrant, and very disease resistant here.
Pink, fragrant and truly astonishing is Arigalla, for its very large spirally blooms.
Mrs.John Laing. moderate fragrance, good rebloom, the color reminds me a bit of Pepto Bismal, but it is a beautiful rose.
Mme. Boll is also reliable, healthy, fragrant and a good medium sized choice for a garden.

Although both Gertrude Jekyll and Glendora are beautiful pink roses and very fragrant the blooms shatter very quickly in the 90'sF. Glendora has many side buds and so the bloom cycle is prolonged so this is less of a problem.
Reine d'Anjou' a pink damask Moss is breathtaking and has clean foliage that reminds me of the Centifolia 'Bullata' dark green and lettuce shaped.

Good luck in finding a rose that you will adore for a long time.
Lux

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clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 11:44 am    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 11:45 am

Looking for Roses that are TRULY Resistant to Balck Spot

posted by: Nininanoo on 01.31.2002 at 07:42 pm in Organic Rose Growing Forum

Looking for Roses that are TRULY resistant to Black Spot.

I was hoping that you could let me know what indivdual roses are TRULY resistant to black spot. I live in Massachusetts which is zone 6. I started planting Griffith Buck roses three (3) years ago when I read that many of them are resistant to black spot (B.S.).

Some of the Bucks I have planted for there B.S. resistance are: Priarie Sunrise, Paloma Blanca, Sjulin and Pearlie Mae. My favorite is Pearlie Mae as it just keeps blooming with 4,5, and 6 flowers at a time. I have two (2) more on order El Catala and Carefree Beauty, they are both listed as resistant to black spot. As I have planted most of the Buck roses that are listed as black spot resistant I am looking to find some more Gems for my garden, that are highly resistant to black spot.

Also, does anyone know were I can purchase Pippa�s Song it�s a Buck that�s listed as B.S. resistant but no one seems to have it?

I have heard that the Romantica�s are quite disease resistant but being that there are quite a few roses diseases, I was hoping to get some solid first hand experience from other rose growers as to which fair best against black spot.

Romantica�s:

Abbaye de Clung
Auguste Renoir
Eden Climber
MEIrevolt (were it can be purchased)
MEIvamo (were it can be purchased)
MEIviolin (were it can be purchased)
Polka
Toulouse-Lautrec

Of course well out surfing for the Romantica�s I came across a hundred others that I would like to have, if anyone can tell me how they hold up to black spot I would really appreciate it. Also, if you have any other suggestions I would welcome them, I am parcial to Tea roses. Thank you.

Orange N Lemons
Living Easy
Fragrant Plum
Princess De Monaco
Gold Medal
Moon Shadow Purple
Centenial Star
Double Delight
Honor
Lynn Anderson
Judy Garland
Bahia
Hiroshimas Children
Jane Pauley
New Zealand
Origami
Octoberreast
Singing in the rain

Thank you in advance.

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RE: House photos with roses please!!! (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: ameri2nal on 03.15.2008 at 04:35 pm in Roses Forum


The climber in New Dawn, the White in the foreground is Darlows Enigma

A better angle of New Dawn. Sadly, this rose contracted RRD and has been replaced with a Honeysuckle

Autumn Sunset and Westerland

This doesn't show much of the house but it is the side view of the front of our house

The white is Alba Suaveolens, with Rose de Rescht in front

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clipped on: 02.16.2014 at 06:34 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2014 at 06:34 pm

RE: Harkness Rose "Well Being" (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: dublinbay on 09.11.2013 at 04:37 pm in Roses Forum

I've been growing Well Being for about 5-6 years. It is beautiful and disease-resistant. Here is a pic, showing the blooms at several different stages -- more reddish flushes on the new blooms.

Well-Being

This pic is more like the earlier poster's pic: full bloom surrounded by reddish buds.

Unfortunately, Well being is kinda back in a corner where it sometimes gets ignored and therefore not watered as much as it should be--so it quits blooming. But all it seems to take to get it blooming again is a good watering (and my profuse apologies, perhaps).

I no longer remember if it was grafted or own root--nor where I bought it. Sorry. Some poster on this forum posted a gorgeous pic of it accompanied by blue delphiniums--I fell in love with it at first sight--even though I can't grow delphiniums. It does look nice across the path from Austin's Shakespeare2000, however.

Kate

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RE: Harkness Rose "Well Being" (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: terryjean on 09.11.2013 at 10:26 am in Roses Forum

I have two of them here in Zone 5, and they've proven to be stellar. They are always loaded with huge blooms, pretty healthy foliage even if I miss spraying for BS (which I've been lax about because of the heat wave lately), and are cane hardy without winter protection.

The best bloom color comes in the Fall with temps area cooler....the burgundy comes out in the edges of the blossom. Absolutely breathtaking!

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clipped on: 02.13.2014 at 02:04 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2014 at 02:04 pm

RE: Well Being- Harkness Shrub Rose (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: the_morden_man on 08.29.2006 at 03:11 pm in Roses Forum

Hi Everyone,

I'm back online today and glad you all enjoyed the photo's. Thank-you for your kind sentiments.

I will try and answer each of your questions as best I can. However, since these are first year roses to me I can't provide as comprehensive a level of experience as I may have liked.

In total, I have four Well Beings. They are planted in a square cluster on 24" centers in a southern bed in an area where a large, mature white Potentilla used to grow. On one side of Well Being are two of the Ingenious Mr. Fairchild and on the other side are two of Outta the Blue. This garden bed is between the walkway to the front door of my house and the front lawn, respectively.

Jean5Il,
Harkness lists the size of a mature Well Being as around 4.5' tall and about 3-3.5' wide. Pickering lists it as 4'X3'. This seems like a pretty good estimate as mine are currently about 2.5' tall and 1.5' to 2' wide so far this year.

Roseleaf,
Yes, your BS pressure would certainly be higher in the mid-Atlantic region. My mother, who lives in PEI, Canada, will be ordering this rose this year after seeing them in my garden this summer and falling head over heels in love with it. I cut her a bouquet of this rose every week she was with us this summer. I'll know more how it fares in an Atlantic climate soon enough.

Phylrae,
Glad you love it as well. Yes, some of the blooms definately have a more fringy appearance than others. In fact, a few on the bush right now are exceptionally fringy. More so than in the summer. I'm wondering whether the cooler weather is doing this, or whether its just the immaturity of the bushes. I've noticed that the colours of this rose are also immensely variable pending temps, so perhaps it could be related. I've had everything from pure yellow blooms, to yellow tinted with orange and pink on the outer petals to predominantly a yellow/orange blend. It reminds me of Molineux and Morden Sunrise in this respect. How has your Well Being done for BS resistance?

Pappu,
Well Being might indeed make a superb hedge. The flowering ability and growth habit is certainly there for that. My only reservation I would still have at this point is winter hardiness. Even though my friend says it is fine witout protection in his zone 5 garden, I'd prefer to see how they make it through a winter here. Microclimates can play a huge role in cane loss, so to me at least, the jury is still out somewhat on the hardiness aspect. Regarding the blooms, our summers are very hot here, many days over 100F and they last a good 3 or 4 days on the bush in this heat provided the bush is well hydrated. The heat also brings out the fragrance more. The colours do slowly fade on the blooms and they drop cleanly from the plant once spent. Have you considered Morden Sunrise as a yellow blend to use as a hedge? It's a single bloom, but a beautiful one with variable colours as well. It is exceptionally hardy, completely everblooming, has a nice, medium strength scent and disease resistance should be just fine in your climate (it can BS badly in areas with excessive rain and moisture). Since you spray regularly, I would think you would have zero BS issues with Morden Sunrise, or minimal at worst. I have 4 Morden Sunrise too and they suffer only late season BS, but again, I do not spray.

Tivoli Rose,
Beautiful pictures as well. Thanks for supplementing and sharing! :)

Sumzie,
Ummmmm....ok. You really should have that insured just like J.Lo did. :)

Lastly, this post wouldn't really be complete without a little more enabling now...would it??? Some more pics. Sorry, but as I said, I literally have taken a hudred photo's of this rose...Enjoy....






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clipped on: 02.13.2014 at 01:01 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2014 at 01:02 pm

Well Being- Harkness Shrub Rose

posted by: the_morden_man on 08.25.2006 at 04:18 pm in Roses Forum

I posted this on another forum and figured I would post here also...

This rose is already one of my favorite roses and to me, the best I have planted in quite some time.

Although I personally cannot speak to hardiness yet, I have a rose friend who has grown this through an Ontario winter and indicated that cane dieback was about 50%-60% in a zone 5 winter without protection. Last winter was a mild one, but that is still much hardier than your average shrub rose.

Disease resistance has been "good" to "very good" for me this year. They did exhibit some BS (I do not spray), but I find this not unusual for a 1st year rose since they have to work so hard to establish roots, create growth, bloom, repeat and still fight off pests and disease. Many roses I have planted over the years will BS and/or mildew in the 1st year and then rarely exhibit this again in subsequent years once established. If they do, they usually receive a short stay in my garden.

The vigour of Well Being is quite high and it will grow rapidly once happy in its new home. Mine are all from Pickering and grafted to multiflora and planted with the graft about 3-4" deep.

The blooming is sensational both in quantity and speed of repeat. Even as 1st year plants, these roses have been rarely out of bloom and I would assume that once established, they could be labelled as "continual bloomers".

Well Being grows upright and bushy with very nice, plentiful foilage that shows off the blooms to perfection. It throws out large sprays of bloom that are nicely held above the plant and the necks are strong enough to hold the blooms for good display.

The scent of this rose alone, is almost enough to warrant its inclusion in any garden, even if its other attributes weren't as outstanding, as they in fact are. In 2003, at the city of Nantes in France, it took 1st prize in the competition for perfumed roses. This is the only trial for new roses where prizes are awarded solely on the basis of perfume. The judges described it as follows, "To the offactive senses, it presents a magnificent dominance of citrus, notably grapefruit, infused with lime. This upper note is supported by the character of fruity black-currant, on a base of typical rose perfume. It should be underlined that the rose itself is in harmony with the sheer quality of its perfume."

If this rose was an Austin, you can bet your @ss that it would be one of the most popular and asked for roses around.

I have taken literally a hundred photo's of this rose already this year. I quickly uploaded a few of them for you. My enabling is now complete. Resistance is futile...:)
Enjoy.

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clipped on: 02.13.2014 at 01:01 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2014 at 01:01 pm

Some before and after showing growth so far

posted by: AquaEyes on 06.13.2013 at 11:41 am in Antique Roses Forum

The "after" shots were taken on June 2, and with all the rain we've been having in my area, there's even more growth as of today (two weeks later). If it wasn't raining right now, I'd go out and take some more pics. And I should really do the whole bunch, since the few below aren't even the most dramatic differences since the bands came.

Bear in mind these are just iPhone shots, and are just meant for reference. I'll be thinking about buying a real camera eventually.

:-)

~Christopher

'Sweet Chariot' arrived May 1, potted in 1-gal
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'Sweet Chariot' as of June 2
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'Lyda Rose' arrived May 1, potted in 2-gal
 photo LydaRoseMay1_zpsaad7ef03.jpg

'Lyda Rose' as of June 2
 photo LydaRoseJune2_zps3e9ff16f.jpg

'Baltimore Belle' arrived April 26, potted in 2-gal
 photo BaltimoreBelleApril26_zpsb597d498.jpg

'Baltimore Belle' as of June 2 (with tree branch in pot for support)
 photo BaltimoreBelleJune2_zpse9d4a6ec.jpg

'Jaune Desprez' arrived April 26, potted in 2-gal
 photo JauneDesprezApril26_zpscf3a3a72.jpg

'Jaune Desprez' as of June 2 -- see the shoot rising above the first "e" in "Desprez? That shoot is thicker than a pencil, and currently over 12" long. There are also two twigs stuck in the pot for support.
 photo JauneDesprezJune2_zps4cceea8d.jpg

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clipped on: 02.11.2014 at 01:50 pm    last updated on: 02.11.2014 at 01:51 pm

RE: Annie Laurie McDowell (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: roseseek on 11.18.2011 at 12:00 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Hello Bart! Yes sir, it's me. Thank you for desiring Annie Laurie. The wonderful lady for whom it is named would have thought that delicious. (I love it, too, thanks!) Yes, Hans buds his plants. The growing season there is short and cool enough to require budding rather than own root. Our hotter, longer Southern California climates are much more beneficial for own root production without requiring expensive artificial heat. Think Mediterranean to South African and you know what I am describing.

Even budded, in cooler, shorter climates any rose will benefit from the extra warmth of a nursery can or other plastic pot. It keeps the soil warmer, stimulating more organic bacterial action, releasing more nutrients into the root zone. Warmer sap pushes more growth, faster, producing a faster maturing plant. You've seen it many times with the other plant types you've grown in pots. I don't know where you are as that information isn't included on your page here, but if it's convenient for you, I would think you could produce a much more developed plant in a significantly shorter period by growing her in a five gallon pot until you think she's ready for planting.

I've long started all of my bare roots in cans until there is a well established root system filling the soil ball. They get there faster and have enough momentum to take off once released to the soil. You don't HAVE to, but I do think it will result in a more mature plant in a much shorter time.

Not letting her flower until she's put on the climbing growth will help greatly, too. If you've grown Rosarium Uetersen, you've already experienced what I've described. That glorious climber will sit, flowering like a dwarf floribunda, for the longest time if not encouraged to climb by not letting it flower.

The large plant pictured on Help Me Find from Valencia, California, put out actual yard long (nearly a meter) flower sprays this summer. Like her mama, she likes flowering on downward hanging wood, so even on a wall, trellis or arch, she hangs the flowers down toward your face for you to enjoy. One of her greatest landscaping charms is the ability to dead head her with a hose. Being virtually seed sterile, the spent flowers will dry and fall off at the point of abscission, where the peduncle joins to the flowering cane. You can shake the whole dried flower off easily (and, being thornless, she won't bite!) or wash her off with a stream of water to blast them off the plant. Because the block wall that plant is on can be rather hot and dry, I frequently blast out all the climbers in that garden with a strong stream of water to dislodge the spent foliage, blooms, spider webs and other debris. They're all clean and healthy and with the drainage there, they appreciate the extra water, both to the plant parts and roots. It makes grooming a lot easier, too. Clean them up today, blast out the debris with the hose, then the lawn guy appears the next day to clean up all the fallen debris with the mower.

I hope you are as happy with Annie Laurie McDowell as she will be with you. I LOVE this rose! Thank you. Kim

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clipped on: 02.11.2014 at 11:27 am    last updated on: 02.11.2014 at 11:27 am

RE: Most disease resistant roses for hot and humid (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 07.04.2012 at 12:40 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Summer here is hot and humid: 98 to 100 degrees, 50 to 70% humidity. I don't spray in my garden. All my Romanticas and the ones at the rose park nearby are 100% clean with glossy foliage:

1) Sweet Promise hybrid tea, more like a shrub on steroids, almost thornless, 15 buds/blooms for the fist 2 months. Reddish glossy foliage, very pretty. 5' x 4' - Smell like fresh apple blossoms.

2) Bolero floribunda - glossy foliage, perfection in health, Japanese beetles don't care for it. Compact pretty shrub 3' x 2'. Smell like waterlily.

3) Frederic Mistral - foliage is clean, but very demanding in water. Japanese beetles love this one. Upper branches have no thorns. Smells like expensive perfume.

4) Nahema - foliage is clean - scent is exotic and strong. Almost thornless. It's classified as a climber, but it's more commpact that octopussy Austins. Can be easily grown as an upright shrub. My own-root is really short 2' x 1', like a dwarf compared to Austins.

4) Liv Tyler - check out the picture I posted in the thread "Golden Cel. standing still". Not a speck of diseases in this one. It thrives in hot and humid weather. People report that it could use some afternoon shade so blooms don't fry and it smells yummy apricot.

5) Peter Mayle - I don't grow this one due to its thorns, but others raved about how disease-resistant it is, so I might get it own-root - anyone know if it's less thorny own-root?

6) Pat Austin - not a speck of dieases, glossy foliage. Very compact. She's my favorite among 15 Austins, since she stays compact 2' x 1.5'. Own-root version smells yummy like ripe nectarine. Grafted version smells more tea, not as good. She's the only Austin that doesn't need pruning nor staking.

7) Firefighter - bush looks like "Sweet Promise": Leaves are pretty reddish when young. Upper branches are thornless, great for cutting. Scent lasts for 1 week. Longest vase life. No disease here, even when it's rainy for 24 hours. I like it so much I want one more bush.

8) Honey Bouquet - I abuse this one: plant in the worse soil possible, scorching hot sun, neglected watering .. it's tough and healthy.

9) Singing-in-the-Rain: The best bush at the rose park, more loaded than Knock-out, great color, almost thornless, is in the blackspot resistant group along with Belinda's Dream. I will buy this FOR SURE next year. It outshines Julia Child by far in terms of great color that doesn't fade, more blooms, and more compact. It's 2' x 2.5' here.

10) Apricot Candy: another Meiland hybrid tea that outshines ALL THE HYBRID TEAS at the rose park (more than 1,000 bushes). I saw it in wet non-stop rainy fall, completely healthy while other HTs at the park came down with BS, or look really messy - they spray heavily. It' stood up to rain well, smells great, and best compact form 3'x 2'. This one is worth getting for the look of the bush and the health alone.

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clipped on: 02.11.2014 at 11:19 am    last updated on: 02.11.2014 at 11:20 am

RE: Most disease resistant roses for hot and humid (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 07.04.2012 at 01:15 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Warning on Christopher Marlowe: he looks like an unmade bed with octopus canes. I was thinking about killing him for his messiness. He's short but very wide: 3'x 4'. He doesn't make good cut-flower (color fades and smells weird), nor repeat quickly like the single-petal landscape bush.

I forget to mention the 2 roses that I am madly in love with for its compactness and health: Kim Rupert's, or Roseseek's creations: Annie Laurie McDowell and Lynnie. Check out the picture of Annie L.D. I posted in Campanula's thread "No more single-petal white rose".

I don't know how large Annie gets in your climate, but she's even smaller than a mini-rose here, due to her blooming at the expense of growth. She's 100% thornless, so whacking her off is no problem. She's very healthy, and less work than water-hogs Romanticas and Austins. Her scent of lavender and lilac will send you to heaven.

Lynnie is a compact bush 3' x 2'. She's the epitome of health. I plant her in an EXTREMELY CROWDED spot admist tons of perennials, and she has zero blackspot nor mildew. The tall summer phlox next to her is white with mildew, and the Bonica bush previously planted there succumbed to blackspot due to poor air circulation. Kim Rupert bred Lynnie for health, constant blooming, and having no thorns.

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clipped on: 02.11.2014 at 11:19 am    last updated on: 02.11.2014 at 11:19 am

RE: What if? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: inkognito on 06.22.2012 at 06:16 pm in Landscape Design Forum

karin: we have been thrashing this around for a while now but with your people vs house need theory you may have hit a nail on its head. There may be a grey area where what a person needs is to tart up the facade but generally speaking this (our landscape) is the place where we live and what we want from it is as variable as we are. What this means is that any formulaic house garden combination is a hit or miss affair.

I have had clients prepared to spend mega bucks on a garden they never intend walking into but want it to look like a picture from the upstairs window. And another who wanted to feel as though they were in an enchanted garden when they walked outside (their words not mine). And this is what a designer taps into. Obviously making your own garden is different yet the process is the same, if you start from "What should I put in my foundation planting scheme?" and then work backwards you are missing out on the magic.

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clipped on: 02.06.2014 at 12:49 am    last updated on: 02.06.2014 at 12:49 am

I have run out of room

posted by: hosenemesis on 05.30.2012 at 05:49 pm in California Gardening Forum

I am a frustrated gardener. I have all of these ideas for beautiful beds, but I have run out of room. Someone should invent a virtual reality game like Fantasy Football, but with plants. This is what I want today, after going to nurseries and driving past people's pretty yards.

I want a gold and purple-blue bed with sea statice, gold daylilies and coreopsis, Cosmos 'Bright Lights' and 'Recurring Dream' tall bearded iris. Golden arborvitae and Springtime Viburnum in the background. 'Crystal Palace' lobelia for groundcover.

I want a blue, yellow and white bed with a huge overgrown Cape Plumbago in the background, bright yellow roses like my Henry Fonda, the yellow iris 'That's All Folks' and the blue ones 'Cascadian Rhythm' and 'Victoria Falls,' blue Marguerite daisies, white Shasta or African daisies, and white and yellow yarrow. With dark green myrtle, and a twelve foot tall 'Heavenly Blue' morning glory teepee.

I want a pink, magenta, and peach bed filled with roses and pelargoniums. I want dark cerise-magenta roses like 'Zepherine Drouhin' and dark pink/red roses like Twilight Zone or Darcey Bussell mixed with pale pale pinks like Climbing Eden, with the dainty ivy geraniums in white and pink and dark cerise-magenta, and the big fat Martha Washington pelargoniums in peach. I want lots of magenta and white dianthus for ground cover and clear lovely peach roses like 'Heaven on Earth' and pale complicated roses like 'Ginger Syllabub' and 'Gloire de Dijon.'

What do you want today?
Renee

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clipped on: 02.05.2014 at 11:05 pm    last updated on: 02.05.2014 at 11:05 pm

RE: Unusual and fun colored climbers (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: michaelg on 10.29.2013 at 04:34 pm in Roses Forum

'Rosarium Uetersen' is a traffic stopper, often a brilliant coral with vermillion and purple reflections. At times it can be salmon pink or a more normal medium red or deep pink, the last being its official color class. All the color variations are vivid and saturated. Looks great with blue and purple companions. It bears great numbers of large fragrant flowers in clusters the size of a volleyball. Mature plants repeat well. It is heat tolerant and resists blackspot in some gardens. It doesn't make true climbing shoots, but sets flowers at the end of temporarily flexible shoots averaging 6'. However, it will cover a good-sized support. I maintain mine at 10' x 10'. Downside, very thorny.

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clipped on: 02.05.2014 at 10:59 pm    last updated on: 02.05.2014 at 10:59 pm

RE: climbing rose suggestions (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: nanadoll on 05.14.2013 at 02:25 pm in Roses Forum

Take a look at Colette, a rose I'm really impressed with so far. It has lovely peach blooms, blooms a lot, and just lived through the worst January temps I remember in a at least fifteen years, followed by a series of nasty April freezes (like mid twenties temps). It had absolutely no damage due to the cold. I don't know how tall it will eventually get here since I haven't had it long enough, but I don't think it gets in the supertall range. Diane

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clipped on: 02.05.2014 at 10:56 pm    last updated on: 02.05.2014 at 10:56 pm

RE: climbing rose suggestions (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: Nippstress on 05.13.2013 at 03:48 pm in Roses Forum

Another thing to consider is that in my yard, my east side facing wall is a relatively cold zone 4 pocket that needs extra winter hardy plants. On that side of the house, I have John Cabot (hot pink Canadian Explorer"), Ginger Syllabub (relatively infrequent blooming apricot), Autumn Sunset and Westerland (fairly hardy apricot to orange climbers not too tall for me), Eden, and the two Michael mentioned - Ramblin' Red and Quadra. He's absolutely right about their hardiness and disease resistance - the only drawback for your plan is wanting them to stay at 8-10 feet. I've been lazy about getting something official for Quadra to climb on, so he's an ill-tempered standing shrub with aggressively thick canes in every direction. I suspect Quadra (or its counterpart climber Illusion) is strong enough to at least remove the tires from your car, but reinstalling them undamaged would be questionable.

Other more mannerly climbers (so far) in my zone 5 Nebraska yard include:

Nahema - wowza double carnation pink fragrant blooms and a vigorous climber in the first year, covering two panels of a fence in each direction by the second year - hardy and healthy
Compassion - pinkish double climber that has been tip hardy so far, only in its second year for me but has climbed 8-10 feet easily in a friend's yard
Mme. Carolyn Testout - another very hardy pink cilmber that likes thick canes that aren't very flexible but disease resistant
Aloha - I have this Kordes climber as a free standing shrub with things to lean against when it wants to, and it stays within 6-8' under those conditions, though it would like to be taller
Harlekin - another Kordes climber, white with dark pink edges, not as frequent a bloomer as I'd like but very hardy, as Kordes plants are known to be
Awakening - tough as nails pink climber with relatively small blooms - mine takes care of itself in part shade with little or no attention from me all year

I grow quite a few more climbers in zone 5, but some of them I haven't horizontally trained yet as Michael describes, so they have infrequent bloom habits, or they haven't been in more than a year or two to attest to hardiness. I'm sure I've forgotten some real winners, but with some care to hardiness of the rose you should be able to find a rose that meets your requirements.

Cynthia

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clipped on: 02.05.2014 at 10:55 pm    last updated on: 02.05.2014 at 10:55 pm

My Sweet Ginger and Other Assorted Stuff

posted by: boxofrox on 07.18.2011 at 08:01 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

We had one little day for a break and then the weather turns south again so I got home and shot a few pics before the blooms get bombarded. My young Ginger is just flat out tickling me, she started blooming about 3 weeks ago and shows no sign of letting up. These are a few shots of some of her sprays and some other stuff. Thanks for looking and hope you enjoy................

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White Eden & Kiri Te

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Phlox

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First Glad of the Year

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AD

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Flutterbye

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The Dark Lady

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Nikko Blue

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RE: Would you like to help me cull my 4b, no-spray, newbie list? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: dsd2682 on 05.25.2013 at 03:30 pm in Roses Forum

Here is a really great resource for you. The Peggy Rockefeller rose garden in NY recently went no spray. They started doing trials and replaced mote than 600 rose bushes and now grow only disease resistant varueties that are hardy in your zone. They now make a top 100 performers list each year that can be found here: http://www.nybg.org/gardens/rose-garden/performers-2010.php

They rank them by performance (disease resistance/bloom production/hardiness) but the 100 top are listed from over 1300 roses and they did not include any one time bloomers in the list. It's by far the best and most recent trial for no spray cold climate roses. They are now testing their best performers to see if they can designate them as "earth kind" (a category for no spray, organically fertilized only roses that give outstanding performance. Belinda's dream, Cecile Bruner and duchess de Brabant all make the cut currently). And they have announced that Kordes roses have almost all been their top performers. Particularly the fairy tale series. So look into those.
Quietness is a great one too. It's a dr griffin buck rose of which there are many other good ones too. All bread to be cold hardy and extremely disease resistant.
I live in S. florida so I don't know much about winter hardiness but I know a lot about black spot resistant roses and some of my best performers are kordes, buck roses and the NEWER Austin's. David Austin has payed a lot of attention to disease resistance in the past 10 years or so, and the new ones are very good performers.

Here is a link that might be useful: Top 100 list from NYBG

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clipped on: 02.03.2014 at 12:25 am    last updated on: 02.03.2014 at 12:25 am

RE: Havana Blues? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: rouge21 on 09.30.2012 at 02:00 am in Perennials Forum

UPDATE:

I planted 4 very small bare root HB back in late May. It is now in late September that they are each now showing their potential i.e. 'floriferousness' and long duration of flowering.

Not the best quality of picture but it does give you some idea of the good things to come next season.

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clipped on: 01.30.2014 at 02:20 pm    last updated on: 01.30.2014 at 02:20 pm

RE: Havana Blues? (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: SunnyBorders on 09.30.2012 at 06:09 pm in Perennials Forum

True, Rouge.

Been putting my gardens pictures, and Merlin's Hollow, on my Buddy Sharon's Blue Garden Cubit and will continue, but I'd really like to put pictures that may be of interest on this Perennial Forum too.

I'm interested particularly in how perennials are put together in beds and how the beds are maintained.

I've only have long-term maintenance contracts on a couple of gardens and there's also our own small garden. I only feel responsible for a garden, if I've been maintaining it over two or three years, or more.

Going to try for a pictures of one of my gardens from last week.

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clipped on: 01.30.2014 at 02:19 pm    last updated on: 01.30.2014 at 02:20 pm

RE: Is this a form of Campanula? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: floral_uk on 01.26.2014 at 02:21 pm in Perennials Forum

Hard to tell the species/cultivar at that distance but it certainly looks like a Campanula. Maybe good old C portenschlagiana? It self seeds round here and I put up a photo on GW a while back.

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clipped on: 01.28.2014 at 03:30 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2014 at 03:30 pm

RE: record low temps (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: wirosarian on 01.25.2014 at 10:54 am in Roses Forum

Below is a link to an article on the ARS web site that is an interesting read on this topic

Here is a link that might be useful: ARS article

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clipped on: 01.26.2014 at 09:50 pm    last updated on: 01.26.2014 at 09:51 pm

RE: Help with my window boxes?? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: nhbabs on 01.12.2014 at 03:54 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

A lot depends on the size of your window boxes. One thing that will give you more choices of plants is to have window boxes that are deeper than typical. Shallower boxes dry out more quickly and have greater temperature swings. I use a moisture absorbing polymer in my pots as well to help maintain a more even moisture level.

Do you like having plants that grow up in front of your windows, or do you only want low-growing and trailing plants?

A couple plants I have grown in containers that are quite tolerant of heat and don't mind if it is a bit dry are Portulaca (moss rose) and the foliage plant Dichondra argentea 'Silver Falls', both of which will spill over the edge. If the boxes are large enough, vines like ornamental sweet potato (foliage plant) and Black-eyed Susan vines (Thunbergia) can be trained upwards on trellises or left to trail down over the side. Nicotiana/ornamental tobacco likes warmth and will bloom continuously for a long time, but you will probalby want to choose a relatively short variety like Little Nicky. I love its evening perfume, rather vanilla-like. Some of the shorter varieties of Cosmos, which likes heat, would probably do well and give you a bit of height also. Verbena is available as both short upright plants and trailing types. I have grown all these plants in full sun conditions that get up into the 90's, though our nights are probably cooler than yours, so I can't be sure that the flowering ones will continue to flower well in your conditions.

You could do a web search for heat-tolerant annuals and read about their size and moisture requirements to decide if you think they fit your needs.

I'll link to a blog that has some stunning cottage style window boxes to give you some inspiration.

Here is a link that might be useful: Deborah Silver's window boxes

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clipped on: 01.21.2014 at 12:19 pm    last updated on: 01.21.2014 at 12:19 pm

RE: Loropetalum won't bloom (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: deviant-deziner on 04.07.2013 at 01:53 pm in Landscape Design Forum

Try applying a high phosphorus fertilizer. Commonly the name on these types of fertilizers are "Bloom", Super Bloom, Triple Super Phosphate.
In regards to the later, I prefer a high phosphorus fertilizer that also has a low amount of N and K, iron and the mirco elements so to not lock up and create too much of an unbalance.
A well stocked garden nursery will have this product in stock or any hydroponic or pot growing shop will have it.

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clipped on: 01.17.2014 at 03:11 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2014 at 03:12 pm

RE: One of the Most if Not the Most Amazing Garden I Have Ever Se (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mendocino_rose on 01.12.2014 at 06:44 pm in Antique Roses Forum

It does look lovely. We go to Half Moon Bay all the time as a getaway. I'd love to go see the garden. I suppose one could then stay at the Ritz for a honeymoon. How wonderful that you got married there(at Hastings house).
Magical gardens? How about Mottisfont?

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clipped on: 01.13.2014 at 03:35 pm    last updated on: 01.13.2014 at 03:35 pm

RE: Agastache in raised beds (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: ssmdgardener on 09.02.2012 at 08:49 pm in Soil Forum

I have horrible clay with no organic matter. When I dig down (actually, I can't dig; I have to chisel), it's yellow rocky clay with no worms, no bugs, no life at all.

I sheet mulched one area using mostly wood chips, coffee grounds and half-finished compost and planted agastache. By this spring, I couldn't dig in there without getting a scoop full of worms. The agastache there are going nuts.

I'm gonna guess that the area has about 6 inches of sheet mulching on top of the clay. I didn't have to do any supplemental watering at all this summer.

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clipped on: 01.11.2014 at 12:16 am    last updated on: 01.11.2014 at 12:16 am

RE: Agastache in raised beds (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: gardengal48 on 09.02.2012 at 05:53 pm in Soil Forum

Lean soil is not the issue - drainage is. As long as one provides good drainage, especially during the colder times of the year, agastache should be fine.

In fact, one of the largest breeders/hybridzers of agastache suggests this: "Best in well drained, fertile soil. Needs excellent drainage to overwinter."

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clipped on: 01.11.2014 at 12:14 am    last updated on: 01.11.2014 at 12:14 am

RE: Agastache in raised beds (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: a2zmom on 09.02.2012 at 04:28 pm in Soil Forum

I'm a long time grower of agastache in medium clay.

In my regular bed, what I do is dig out the clay, cover the bottom of the hole with chicken grit (tiny pebbles), then use a 1/4 sand, 1/4 composted manure and the soil I dug out mixed together. That seems to work fine.

However, last year I created a new bed using the lasagna method. Very rich soil but also very good drainage. I planted three tiny agastache plants (acapulco orange) and, as you can see, the rich soil poised no problem.

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clipped on: 01.11.2014 at 12:12 am    last updated on: 01.11.2014 at 12:12 am

RE: On taking cuttings and overwintering salvia, agastache (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: rich_dufresne on 09.19.2007 at 11:45 am in Salvia Forum

Penstemons and agastaches should be hardy for you, which is good, because you need cuttings from the spring and autumn basal, robust flushes of growth to get good cuttings.

With Salvias, you need robust growth as well (green wood), and bottom heat works well. Seasons are not as critical as is the robustness of growth.

Your plans will be more compact in the unheated space. In the heated area, I hope you like a cool house. Otherwise, the plants will be thin, leggy, and prone to spider mites.

Please use a sterile rooting medium, not dirt or water. The grittier and airier the media the better. Do not use beach sand, which has rounded sand grains. Builders sand is washed, and should have sharp edges to the grains.

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clipped on: 01.07.2014 at 02:32 pm    last updated on: 01.07.2014 at 02:32 pm

RE: Acapulco Trio Agastache (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: echinaceamaniac on 05.29.2013 at 03:33 pm in Perennials Forum

I planted them together as they were in the pot. This is the 3rd year that every single plant returned here. They obviously like Tennessee. I did add lots of composted cow manure to these beds. It's the Black Kow brand I found at Lowes. It has some sand in it.

To root these I take the cuttings and dip in rooting powder. I put them under constant lighting from a shop light. I covered them with plastic and poked a few holes in the plastic. They need more air than other cuttings. Keep them damp but not soggy.

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clipped on: 01.07.2014 at 02:29 pm    last updated on: 01.07.2014 at 02:29 pm

RE: Acapulco Trio Agastache (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: wonbyherwits on 08.05.2011 at 08:24 pm in Perennials Forum

Acapulco will hate wet winter, as mentioned. Mixing in a bit of sharp gravel to the soil can help with drainage. Don't cut back the agastache until you see basal new growth next spring.

They will actually overwinter better when not hit by the morning sun when there is a frost. In my garden, the agastache on the south and west (I have nothing on the north but woods) sides of the house do better than on the east side due to that morning sun... same with my salvias.

Cameron

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clipped on: 01.07.2014 at 02:26 pm    last updated on: 01.07.2014 at 02:26 pm