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RE: Wide shots of your whole garden (Follow-Up #57)

posted by: daisyincrete on 04.09.2014 at 03:56 am in Roses Forum

I have spent ages looking through these photos. There are a lot of beautiful gardens out there.
I miss visiting gardens. It doesn't happen here, but these photos make me feel that I am in your gardens. Thank-you.
Here are a few of mine.


march 2013 013




may 2013 115

may 2013 030 - Copy

may 2013 022 - Copy

may 2013 003 - Copy

may 2013 144

may 2013 070

may 2013 068

may 2013 061

may 2013 049

may 2013 033

may 2013 030

april-may 2013 064


clipped on: 04.11.2014 at 09:55 am    last updated on: 04.11.2014 at 09:55 am

America and Pearly Gates--good relations

posted by: kathy9norcal on 05.23.2010 at 01:11 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

(America on left and below)

Gillian Blades, has lavender edges that aren't so visible here.


clipped on: 04.10.2014 at 11:24 pm    last updated on: 04.10.2014 at 11:25 pm

Your favorite companions for WHITE roses

posted by: twinkletoad on 03.27.2014 at 11:27 am in Roses Forum

I know that white tends to go with everything, but what are your very favorite companion plants to go with your white roses?

I was thinking white garden phlox and something with variegated leaves might be pretty for a monochromatic look.

I'd love to hear your ideas!


clipped on: 03.29.2014 at 10:12 pm    last updated on: 03.29.2014 at 10:12 pm

Spring flush 08: An Extravaganza! (Front yard 1)

posted by: pappu on 07.07.2008 at 02:50 am in Rose Gallery Forum

I have finally some time to post some images. A stellar spring flush and I am still drunk from the incredible show put on by my roses. This year I realised that one should never truely judge a rose until it's third year and I take back all the bad things I said about the austins..a full grown bush in spring flush is truely a revelation. I have literally taken hundreds of pictures and can keep posting forever, but here are some of the pics from the front yard...neon bright colors that can stand up to the blazing south and west sun (the austins and the pastels are all in the east facing backyard)..I have tons of more pics, will keep posting as time permits..Thanks for watching

Purple pavement
img src="">


clipped on: 03.26.2014 at 11:45 pm    last updated on: 03.26.2014 at 11:46 pm

And the winners are... Spirit of Freedom?

posted by: sarah_rc on 05.29.2007 at 01:32 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Hello! I'm brand new posting to this website... I'm so glad to have found that I'm not the only one obsessed with old fashioned roses!!! This is great! I've thoroughly enjoyed reading the posts and since I've only been rose gardening for 2 years I've learned a lot. The reason I'm posting this is, well, I guess I wanted to stop lurking and say "Hi", and ALSO I wanted to -- Defend my rose! My first and favorite (although a young rose with an inexperienced rose gardener) is Spirit of Freedom! She is a newly debuted rose from David Austin and I see she's not even a contender on your lists! aahhh! ha ha, ha! Well, it seems she has a bad rap here on this site and I think you are all missing out! My first bush has been in the ground 2 years (this is her 3rd spring here) and she's huge. I keep chopping her back to the 5 ft fence and she just springs up all the more. If permitted she could easily be a 10 ft climber. Last year I put 2 more SOFs in beside her and they are growing faster than the first. She tends to shoot up 1 or 2 canes the first year and then the second year go crazy. Yes, okay, if the buds get too wet they ball, BUT but but - IMO this is a small sacrifice to be made when growing a delicious, delicately sweet scented rose with some 200 petals! AND let me clarify, it takes more than a couple showers to cause this!!! (I was inspired to post this after reading Molineaux's "love letter" to cl. cotilde soupert...a rose I must have now too...I just realized there was life outside David Austin's website! What heaven! There's more! My poor husband dosen't understand, I just put in 5 more bushes...) ANYWAY, maybe I'm too new at this, maybe I don't have enough other roses growing to compare my girls to, and maybe it's just my first love, but I think SOF is the sweetest, most beautiful rose out there. They're just starting to bloom and I shot some pictures...

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
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clipped on: 03.25.2014 at 01:28 pm    last updated on: 03.25.2014 at 01:29 pm

Anne Belovich's Garden

posted by: mendocino_rose on 03.24.2014 at 09:57 am in Antique Roses Forum

For those of you who have been reading about Anne's rambler collection here is a link to a lovely montage of her garden.

Here is a link that might be useful: Roses in the Air


clipped on: 03.24.2014 at 04:05 pm    last updated on: 03.24.2014 at 04:05 pm

Ruth's Rose Garden at Florida Southern College

posted by: malcolm_manners on 03.23.2014 at 12:55 am in Antique Roses Forum

The garden was near peak bloom this week. New photos are posted!

Here is a link that might be useful: Link to rose garden photos on flickr


clipped on: 03.24.2014 at 03:53 pm    last updated on: 03.24.2014 at 03:53 pm

RE: lifespan of wooden rose supporting structures and HOAs (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: vasue on 03.18.2014 at 02:28 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Wondering why you're thinking of reinforcing copper with rebar? Plain copper pipe seems cheaper than the copper tubing & is inherently strong. The tubing can be used for decorative elements or circling a pipe structure to tie it togeher - not really structural support.

With the corrosion copper causes to baser metals like rebar, believe you're talking galvanic action & are right not to combine the two. If you slip plastic tubing over the rebar to isolate the surface from contacting the copper, you may be able to avoid the situation. Might be worth researching if you prefer that construction technique. Have seen hoses & plastic tubing threaded over rebar arches before installing to give a less rustic appearance & protect from rust. They can be sealed at the bottom & slipped into anchor holes. But the rebar & the tubing must be bone dry & done on a low humidity day to guard against sealing moisture in. If you're thinking of using the rebar just to help shape the copper & not for any structural reason, don't see why its eventual flaking to nothing inside the copper would matter.

Farmers here use locust posts for fencing & char the bases that go below ground to preserve them. Enlarging a garden bed here, found a charred 10" diameter tree trunk buried a foot below ground. Took most of a day to dig & pull it out. Heard some of the trees here that were cleared off when this house was built were burned on site. It's against code to bury such partially burned wood, since it doesn't decompose. At any rate, that trunk looked as if it was petrified. Couldn't even get a chainsaw through it! So there's tradition behind this method.

Only a couple wooden garden structures over the years, since I worried about upkeep & rot. Did erect a plain untreated tall 6x6 post for a condo birdhouse 20+ years ago. Triple-coated it on all surfaces with Thompson's stain & then mounted it on a metal fence post anchor. The birdhouse fell apart many years ago, but the post still stands.

We had cedar outdoor furniture for years that we oiled annually to maintain. Without that protection, it would become rough & crack - not great for comfort. Still use the Thompson's tinted stain on the few wooden elements outside - the mailbox post, the finial for the copper ogee trellis, the handle of an iron hose reel - giving them another coat after washing down maybe every 7-10 years. It's certainly preserved them. Like the dark gray called Colonial Blue - can't see the "blue" in it, but it gives depth to the gray - because it fits in well with natural garden colors. Figure a copper cap on an upright post treated with the Thompson's tinted stain would last many years if installed with a fence anchor. (Use copper nails or screws to prevent that galvanic action.) We've used the tapered as well as the corkscrew types & they've remained sturdy. Last time we put up a bird feeder post mounted with an anchor, my husband put one of those vinyl sleeves over it & that's lasted nicely 15 years. Bears come by & shimmy the post to remove the feeder & it stays straight. I hose it down once a year & it still looks new.

Two hefty wrought-iron arches put in 16 years ago lost their original powdercoat just last year. I preferred to just oil them (oil rubbed with a rag), but my DH decided to spray them with heavy-duty Rustoleum. We'll see how that stands up. Wrought iron garden furniture needs a wire brush & repaint every 4-5 years. I may just strip & oil them next time that job comes up. Two heavy 3-fold (that store flat & pull out to form 3 sides) 5' iron trellises that came oiled still look great 10 years later with no further treatment.

My favorite for install & forget is the copper pipe. The verdigris that forms protects the metal. An identical circumference steel pipe marked for the depth desired, pounded in to create the holes with a level & pulled straight out allows the copper pipes to be slipped in firm footing. They're pricey to buy, but not difficult to make. Junk yards can be sources of used copper & other materials. Bought a bunch of those cheaply made painted metal tube arches that come in pieces for assembly with screws when found on clearance for $5 a pop. Wanted to play with arches set in a circle & figured that was a cheap way to get a 3-D model before laying out for a copper one. Left two up a couple years now & surprised they still look good apart from the screws starting to rust. Maybe I'll put them all back up, plant them & then replace them one at a time with copper while the climbing roses grow their roots. Really liked the fairy ring look.

Hope this longwinded response helps you with the construction phase of your new garden!

Here is a link that might be useful: Fence Anchors

This post was edited by vasue on Tue, Mar 18, 14 at 15:09


clipped on: 03.19.2014 at 11:59 am    last updated on: 03.19.2014 at 11:59 am

RE: OT rose suggestions for fountain with hedge (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: vasue on 03.15.2014 at 03:01 pm in Antique Roses Forum

We've enjoyed a similar fountain for 35 years, bought new when it was a huge splurge. Great points about the varying shadows it casts & reducing the flow. There's a reducer clamp fitting for the tubing that adjusts with a screw. We've run it with a Little Giant pump, replaced periodically over the years when we forget to detach or protect it over Winter. Found the pump rated next powerful for height & volume than necessary lasts longer. Learned to encase the electrical plug with those clear snap-on weather protectors & jury-rigged the pump housing the same way so we don't have to remove it during the cold when we stop it from running.

Water freezing solid in the basins can spall or crack the concrete. Still have one of those coated vinyl fountain protectors that slips over the whole thing & cinches closed at the base. Getting lazy of late, found that if we let leaves accumulate in the basins, even when the water freezes it hasn't affected the concrete (yet). Low was 1 degree this season without damage. We do use a nontoxic fountain sealer every 10 years or so to make the concrete less porous, and scrub it out with a birdbath brush when we start it up again in Spring.

To even out the flow from basin to basin, also use a nontox clear outdoor silicone that comes in a tube meant for pond waterfalls. Applied at the ends of the drip grooves where needed, it's invisible under the water & helps tune the music of the drips. The hardest trick is getting the whole fountain leveled & tuned whenever I get the urge to move it - not often!

Little of this relates to your question, but hope it may be helpful. No spray from the fountain itself when adjusted, just kicks up sometimes from high winds. Since those are usually accompanied by rain here, not problematic. Branches of roses nearby clear the largest shell basin by 3' so don't whip against it in winds or when birds land on them before hopping over. Two tall roses frame mine on diagonal to the fountain placed at the back of a mixed perennial bed which slopes up a foot at the side of a walkway. The base of the supporting column is ringed by dark green moss that grows naturally here in shade & sun, relocated to that area. Other plants start low & feathery to flow down that broad slope past the rose high points & reach a mid-height billow at the far ends. There's a 2' square bluestone flag set on diamond as a path to the center of the fountain, which children & I use to reach into the fountain & also allows access for filling & maintenance.

Your fountain & design plans for surrounding it are charming. Sure it will delight you for many years to come!


clipped on: 03.19.2014 at 11:43 am    last updated on: 03.19.2014 at 11:43 am

The Body Count....

posted by: buford on 03.15.2014 at 02:25 pm in Roses Forum

ok, just finished pruning my roses. Tough winter. Here is a list of who didn't make it (damn you Polar Vortex)

Mr. Lincoln
Fragrant Cloud
Simply Marvelous
Lasting Embrace
Yellow Ribbons

On life support:

Diana Princess of Wales
Comte de Chambord
Lady Penzance
Double Delight
Tropical Sunset

Look dead, but are own root so hopefully will come back

Marie d'Orleans
Rosette d' Lizzy

Luckily I was able to get my pot ghetto inside for the worst of the cold weather, so I do have some replacements. It still hurts.


clipped on: 03.18.2014 at 03:27 pm    last updated on: 03.18.2014 at 03:27 pm

Rose Fragrance

posted by: Sara-Ann on 03.09.2014 at 10:15 pm in Roses Forum

Do you have roses that are supposed to be fragrant, but can never detect much fragrance, if any from them? Four that I can think of that I have or have had that are described as having a strong fragrance and I have never detected fragrance from them are -

Miss All American Beauty

I was wondering if any of the above are fragrant for you? And are there others that you have experienced as not being fragrant, but are supposed to be? Lack of fragrance is not a deal breaker, especially if the rose has other strong attributes, but it is kind of disappointing when you're expecting it to be fragrant.

I know I don't have any problem detecting fragrance, because there are several I have that are always fragrant. The top ten are -

Pink Peace
Perfume Delight
Buxom Beauty
Chrylser Imperial
Double Delight
Forgotten Dreams
The McCartney Rose

I have quite a few other fragrant roses too, but the above mentioned are probably the most consistently fragrant ones. I do realize fragrance is subjective, but I am just curious about this.

This post was edited by Sara-Ann on Sun, Mar 9, 14 at 22:45


clipped on: 03.12.2014 at 12:06 pm    last updated on: 03.12.2014 at 12:07 pm

Not Black Baccara - what is it?

posted by: Nippstress on 03.11.2014 at 10:05 pm in Roses Forum

Below is a picture of a rose that came labeled from Palatine two years ago I think that's definitely not Black Baccara (a dark burgundy rose). There's the outside chance that my tags could be mixed up with Peach Beauty from Vintage, but ironically the rose below is too apricot to be Peach Beauty (a mostly pink Boerner rose). There are too many apricot roses in Palatine's array for me to ID it correctly, so I'd welcome your help.

I quite like this rose, but I'd like to get it labeled correctly. I'm wondering if it might be a climber, since it has an extremely lax habit draped along the ground for several feet before it decides to bloom on the end. I could work with that, even though it's at the front of the bed, since there's a fence within a few feet that it could probably reach with help (being a lazy soul and unlikely to move it). More ideas on ID would be very nice.



clipped on: 03.12.2014 at 11:37 am    last updated on: 03.12.2014 at 11:38 am

Help please :)

posted by: jbush0806 on 03.07.2014 at 09:23 pm in Virginia Gardening Forum

Can anyone tell me what kind of flowers are in this?


clipped on: 03.09.2014 at 10:49 am    last updated on: 03.09.2014 at 10:49 am

Zone 5 pale yellow climber recommendations?

posted by: angua85 on 02.28.2014 at 06:17 pm in Roses Forum

I am searching for a pale yellow climbing rose that is hardy in SE Michigan, which was I think once zone 5 but probably the artic this year :p If that's an easy request, I would like fragrance as its going to go along the sides of a deck.

And if you know of such a beast, where may I buy one?

Thank you so much-
Stay warm!


clipped on: 03.07.2014 at 11:35 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2014 at 11:35 pm

OT Roses and Lavender

posted by: poorbutroserich on 03.03.2014 at 05:18 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Hi. It's freezing here too. Have a question. I know roses and lavender are frequently suggested as companions but I thought lavender needed much sharper drainage than roses....
Since my roses are so young I really stay on top of them and watering...I drowned some of my salvias last year.
Is there a way to plant lavender with sharp drainage near a rose where the soil should be kept moist?
Wonder if we will have a long cool spring this year or just jump into the 80s?
I'm supposed to pick up some 1Gs own root at the vendor night for the NRS tomorrow. Don't see that happening as the expected low is 18...


clipped on: 03.07.2014 at 05:04 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2014 at 05:04 pm

for leahcate (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: hoovb on 05.31.2009 at 01:30 am in Rose Gallery Forum

Thanks to all for the kind comments! More flowers have opened on LEH--I should take another picture.

leahcate, not sure which pictures those were, here's the garden tour slideshow from last year, hope that helps.

Here is a link that might be useful: garden tour link


clipped on: 02.28.2014 at 10:41 am    last updated on: 02.28.2014 at 10:41 am

RE: Strike it RIch--L'IL TROOPER in the heat (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: pat_bamaZ7 on 06.17.2013 at 03:14 pm in Roses Forum

Strike it Rich thrives in our high heat and high humidity here in Alabama, too. Blooms change from golden edged in red to take on more red as they age. Blooms in the attached pic are about a week old and still looking good.


clipped on: 02.18.2014 at 08:59 pm    last updated on: 02.18.2014 at 08:59 pm

The Glorious Abe Darby

posted by: suebelle on 04.17.2012 at 11:10 am in Rose Gallery Forum

Abe Darby grown as a climber. I love this rose for beauty and fragrance.


clipped on: 02.18.2014 at 03:51 pm    last updated on: 02.18.2014 at 03:51 pm

RE: What was your favorite climbing rose bush in 2009? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: kathy9norcal on 04.04.2010 at 12:46 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

It is hard to pick just one, but how about my trellis which has both America and Pearly Gates, one on each end, with clematis interwoven. That is Graham Thomas on the far right.

Oh, let me also add Dublin Bay, too. I like that it stays manageable for me.



clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 03:08 pm    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 03:08 pm

RE: Westerland is in bloom (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: jess2132000 on 04.16.2010 at 11:52 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

My 4 year old Westerland


clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 02:48 pm    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 02:48 pm

RE: Westerland or Royal Sunset better for zone 7B? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: harryshoe on 05.03.2013 at 12:47 pm in Roses Forum

Westerland performs great here in SE PA. Very vigorous. I cut it back hard each year but it usually grows to 10'. It blooms throughout the summer. I spray it 4 or 5 times each season with fungicide. Lots of new growth at the bottom this year.

 photo arbor1.jpg


clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 02:44 pm    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 02:44 pm

Pretty Peach Silk

posted by: kittymoonbeam on 04.10.2013 at 09:41 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

I don't have many climbers or peachy/ orange roses but this one I truly love.


clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 01:35 pm    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 01:36 pm

Deep pink or apricot climber

posted by: coralb on 05.22.2010 at 05:25 pm in Roses Forum

Hi everyone,

My husband is making me another trellis for by birthday so I need to start thinking about a rose to put on it. I already have America, Carding Mill (which I love), and Abraham Darby (which I am very luke warm about). I would like to get either a deep pink or apricot climber for the new trellis.

I need a rose that does well in zone 7 and would like one with excellent rebloom (or continual bloom). Fragrance is optional. While I do spray for BS I don't do it as often as I should so some resistance is a plus.

I am considering Zephrine Drouhin. Any other suggestions? Also, anyone in the Carolinas grow ZD? How does it perform for them?


clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 12:57 pm    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 12:57 pm

RE: ratings for Reconciliation, Royal Pageant (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: littlesmokie on 12.19.2009 at 04:41 pm in Roses Forum

I have grown Compassion (7 years) and Royal Pageant (5 years.) Both have very good disease resistance no spray in a part sun/shade growing area.

Compassion blooms a lot more, the fragrance is stronger than Royal Pageant, and Compassion lasts better in the landscape and as a cut flower.

The flowers of Royal Pageant blow really fast but they have a nice ruffled sort of look (similar to-but smaller than-Just Joey if you are familiar with that rose's open bloom.)

The fragrance of Compassion is similar to my nose to Tiffany and Elle, if you are familiar with those roses. It's one of my favorite fragrances, but it's NOT a typical strong damask/"rose" scent. I think of it as sweet fruity, maybe a bit peachy? but only moderate in strength.

Reconciliation would be much smaller than either Compassion or Royal Pageant. Compassion can be grown/pruned as an upright self-supporting shrub, but in my experience Royal Pageant wants to grow much larger (and does so at the expense of producing flowers when I've tried to curtail it's growth) and does need some support.

I purchased Compassion ownroot from Heirloom Roses and Royal Pageant (whose true name is Della Balfour, I believe Heirloom renamed it?) from Pickering on multiflora rootstock.

Hope that helps...


clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 12:45 pm    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 12:46 pm

RE: Show off! (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: roseseek on 04.27.2011 at 02:58 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Ingrid, I HAD it in my old Newhall garden years ago. I shared it with Sequoia and Ashdown, and Vintage has it on custom propagation. I don't know if Burling still has it as she's had to reduce what she actively grows to keep current with what sells, but you might email her to find out. It really IS a very good climbing sport of a Hybrid Tea. So many of them were once blooming and terribly stiff and prickly. This one is a bit stiff, but the smooth canes and regular, frequent flowering makes up for much of that. I propagated it from a very old plant at The Huntington which was on one of the iron arches on the main path through the Rose Garden. I didn't notice it there the last time I was in that garden. It's worth obtaining for cutting and garden enjoyment. Columbia was a seedling of Ophelia and sports almost as frequently as she did. Kim


clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 12:02 pm    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 12:02 pm

RE: Help to choose a pink-ish large flowered cl. (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: daisyincrete on 12.04.2013 at 12:48 am in Antique Roses Forum

Nik. I have The New Dawn climbing through my apricot tree.
It is very vigorous and flowers well in spring, but not profusely at other times.


On the other hand, Colombian Climber which came from Peter Beales Roses, flowers profusely most of the time.
It does not get as big as The New Dawn. Mine is about 12-15 feet/ 4-5 metres, but flowers a lot more.
It's perfume is lovely and always there. I can go out in the middle of a chilly winters night or in the afternoon of the hottest day of the year and it's perfume is always gorgeous.

Here it is in spring 2008. This is it's first ever bloom.
Since that day, it has never,ever,ever had a day without blooms.

colombian climber photo P5110055.jpg

colombian climber photo P5140063.jpg

A year later.
 photo 057.jpg

...and with Clematis Perle d'Azur.

sandy5 110


clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 11:57 am    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 11:57 am

RE: Help to choose a pink-ish large flowered cl. (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Nippstress on 12.03.2013 at 11:32 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Some of the climbers we in the US suggest might not be available in Europe, so hopefully more of the continental folks will chime in. Pink climbers that I find lovely and pretty trouble free are Nahema (a very double, fragrant and fast growing Delbard), Compassion (pink, troublefree, and fragrant), and Aloha (big stiff canes so you have to train them early, but typical "rose looking" flowers). I don't think any of these are known for rust or mildew but I'm a bad judge since we don't get those problems. Suzy (campanula) will have a different spin on Nahema since it doesn't do well for her in England.

You're definitely in the right forum if you like roses with history, and that would include some of the darker pinks like Reines des Violettes or Madame Isaac Periere (fragrant to die for, but probably a darker pink than you like). Madame Carolyn Testout is a very strong and vigorous light pink climber that I love, and it has some history. I don't know how long Viking Queen has been around, but it's a real keeper for me as well. Most of the lighter pinks that are OGRs are liable to be noisette or tea types that I can't grow, so I'll let warm weather folks chime in from here.

Of course, New Dawn is a classic climber, but it does have a reputation for being a thorny house eater in your type of climate.



clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 11:56 am    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 11:56 am

RE: Best Pink OGR or Austin ? I am overwhelmed.. (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 07.07.2013 at 07:27 am in Antique Roses Forum

Hi Lynn (desertgarden): I saw that you put Golden Celebration as GREAT in your garden. I have both Golden Celebration and Evelyn. GC is a wimp compared to Evelyn when it comes to heat.

Evelyn is very aggressive as own-root. I mounted soil on top to winter-protect her in my zone 5a, and she rooted all over, so her base is huge. I moved GC, and its own-root was big ... as big as Dr. Huey that I dug up.

Evelyn bloom lasts longer in the vase than Golden Celebration ... thicker petals mean more heat-tolerant. Below is Evelyn blooms, picked at 100 degrees during our drought last summer.


clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 11:52 am    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 11:52 am

RE: Best Pink OGR or Austin ? I am overwhelmed.. (Follow-Up #31)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 07.07.2013 at 07:34 am in Antique Roses Forum

Evelyn own-root is actually better than grafted on Dr. Huey, Own-root is both a horizontal spread, and vertical spread, so it gets both surface water and deep water. Its leaves are thick, no disease-whatsoever (as own-root), the base of the plant is huge:

 photo springevelyn.jpg

Evelyn as own-root is aggressive in getting water to break out in multiple buds on top. See below:

This post was edited by Strawberryhill on Sun, Jul 7, 13 at 7:37


clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 11:51 am    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 11:51 am

RE: Best Pink OGR or Austin ? I am overwhelmed.. (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: luxrosa on 07.04.2013 at 10:16 pm in Antique Roses Forum

These fragrant pink roses thrive in Oakland, California, which has summer temps commonly in the 80's F. and less often in the low 90's.
in no spray gardens.
The first has an old fashioned bloom shape, but is not an O.G.R. nor an Austin;
'Blossomtime' I bought this from after reading one authors description of how the buxom pink blossoms reminded him of La France.
Blossomtime can be grown as a self supporting bush, it is very leafy and an attractive plant, and can be kept at c. 5 1/2 feet tall by 5 to 6 feet wide, or as grown a climber.
Of all the roses I pick for bouquets Blossomtime lasts longer in the vase or bush than most roses Austin or Old Garden Teas.
-rich moderate to intense fragrance. The fragrance is sweet and reminds me of damask rose scent.
The blooms have an old fashioned shape are large and have very pretty shading from pale pink to medium pink, re-bloom is very good as a climber, and faster as a shrub. It is one of the most disease resistant roses in my no spray garden. has photos
White Maman Cochet' is not a pure pink rose but the guard petals are pink, it is one of my favorite roses of all. The bush form has much faster re-bloom, the climber blooms in spring, summer and again in the autumn, here in Oakland.
Grandmothers Hat is a fantastic rose, beautiful and easy to care for. it has one of the longest bloom seasons of any rose of its class. To me the scent of Grandmothers Hat is less strong than Baronne Prevost, ,Glendora, or La France and Blossomtime but it is still moderate and a very lovely scent. I wish I had half a dozen Grandmothers Hat's'
Baronne Prevost is very fragrant, and very disease resistant here.
Pink, fragrant and truly astonishing is Arigalla, for its very large spirally blooms.
Mrs.John Laing. moderate fragrance, good rebloom, the color reminds me a bit of Pepto Bismal, but it is a beautiful rose.
Mme. Boll is also reliable, healthy, fragrant and a good medium sized choice for a garden.

Although both Gertrude Jekyll and Glendora are beautiful pink roses and very fragrant the blooms shatter very quickly in the 90'sF. Glendora has many side buds and so the bloom cycle is prolonged so this is less of a problem.
Reine d'Anjou' a pink damask Moss is breathtaking and has clean foliage that reminds me of the Centifolia 'Bullata' dark green and lettuce shaped.

Good luck in finding a rose that you will adore for a long time.


clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 11:44 am    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 11:45 am

Anyone still grow Blossomtime?

posted by: barbarag_happy on 11.30.2008 at 03:00 pm in Roses Forum

Please tell me how Blossomtime does for you. I have a vivid memory of blooms dating back to plants I saw in Ohio in the early 70's. Looking for a repeat-blooming, healthy climber for a cottage garden; the rose will be planted among substantial shrubs and paired with crinum lilies. Spraying will be occasional at best. Somehow the dusty pink of Rosarium Eutersen or slim repeat on Climbing Pinkie just won't do. This is hot, humid SE VA near the coast so BS pressures are intense. Maybe Kordes has a newer climber??? But the ineffable charm of Blossomtime is engraved on my memory for 30 odd years...!!!


clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 11:19 am    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 11:19 am

Looking for Roses that are TRULY Resistant to Balck Spot

posted by: Nininanoo on 01.31.2002 at 07:42 pm in Organic Rose Growing Forum

Looking for Roses that are TRULY resistant to Black Spot.

I was hoping that you could let me know what indivdual roses are TRULY resistant to black spot. I live in Massachusetts which is zone 6. I started planting Griffith Buck roses three (3) years ago when I read that many of them are resistant to black spot (B.S.).

Some of the Bucks I have planted for there B.S. resistance are: Priarie Sunrise, Paloma Blanca, Sjulin and Pearlie Mae. My favorite is Pearlie Mae as it just keeps blooming with 4,5, and 6 flowers at a time. I have two (2) more on order El Catala and Carefree Beauty, they are both listed as resistant to black spot. As I have planted most of the Buck roses that are listed as black spot resistant I am looking to find some more Gems for my garden, that are highly resistant to black spot.

Also, does anyone know were I can purchase Pippa�s Song it�s a Buck that�s listed as B.S. resistant but no one seems to have it?

I have heard that the Romantica�s are quite disease resistant but being that there are quite a few roses diseases, I was hoping to get some solid first hand experience from other rose growers as to which fair best against black spot.


Abbaye de Clung
Auguste Renoir
Eden Climber
MEIrevolt (were it can be purchased)
MEIvamo (were it can be purchased)
MEIviolin (were it can be purchased)

Of course well out surfing for the Romantica�s I came across a hundred others that I would like to have, if anyone can tell me how they hold up to black spot I would really appreciate it. Also, if you have any other suggestions I would welcome them, I am parcial to Tea roses. Thank you.

Orange N Lemons
Living Easy
Fragrant Plum
Princess De Monaco
Gold Medal
Moon Shadow Purple
Centenial Star
Double Delight
Lynn Anderson
Judy Garland
Hiroshimas Children
Jane Pauley
New Zealand
Singing in the rain

Thank you in advance.


clipped on: 02.16.2014 at 10:50 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2014 at 10:50 pm

RE: House photos with roses please!!! (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: ameri2nal on 03.15.2008 at 04:35 pm in Roses Forum

The climber in New Dawn, the White in the foreground is Darlows Enigma

A better angle of New Dawn. Sadly, this rose contracted RRD and has been replaced with a Honeysuckle

Autumn Sunset and Westerland

This doesn't show much of the house but it is the side view of the front of our house

The white is Alba Suaveolens, with Rose de Rescht in front


clipped on: 02.16.2014 at 06:34 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2014 at 06:34 pm

RE: Harkness Rose "Well Being" (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: dublinbay on 09.11.2013 at 04:37 pm in Roses Forum

I've been growing Well Being for about 5-6 years. It is beautiful and disease-resistant. Here is a pic, showing the blooms at several different stages -- more reddish flushes on the new blooms.


This pic is more like the earlier poster's pic: full bloom surrounded by reddish buds.

Unfortunately, Well being is kinda back in a corner where it sometimes gets ignored and therefore not watered as much as it should be--so it quits blooming. But all it seems to take to get it blooming again is a good watering (and my profuse apologies, perhaps).

I no longer remember if it was grafted or own root--nor where I bought it. Sorry. Some poster on this forum posted a gorgeous pic of it accompanied by blue delphiniums--I fell in love with it at first sight--even though I can't grow delphiniums. It does look nice across the path from Austin's Shakespeare2000, however.



clipped on: 02.13.2014 at 02:05 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2014 at 02:05 pm

RE: Harkness Rose "Well Being" (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: terryjean on 09.11.2013 at 10:26 am in Roses Forum

I have two of them here in Zone 5, and they've proven to be stellar. They are always loaded with huge blooms, pretty healthy foliage even if I miss spraying for BS (which I've been lax about because of the heat wave lately), and are cane hardy without winter protection.

The best bloom color comes in the Fall with temps area cooler....the burgundy comes out in the edges of the blossom. Absolutely breathtaking!


clipped on: 02.13.2014 at 02:04 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2014 at 02:04 pm

RE: Well Being- Harkness Shrub Rose (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: the_morden_man on 08.29.2006 at 03:11 pm in Roses Forum

Hi Everyone,

I'm back online today and glad you all enjoyed the photo's. Thank-you for your kind sentiments.

I will try and answer each of your questions as best I can. However, since these are first year roses to me I can't provide as comprehensive a level of experience as I may have liked.

In total, I have four Well Beings. They are planted in a square cluster on 24" centers in a southern bed in an area where a large, mature white Potentilla used to grow. On one side of Well Being are two of the Ingenious Mr. Fairchild and on the other side are two of Outta the Blue. This garden bed is between the walkway to the front door of my house and the front lawn, respectively.

Harkness lists the size of a mature Well Being as around 4.5' tall and about 3-3.5' wide. Pickering lists it as 4'X3'. This seems like a pretty good estimate as mine are currently about 2.5' tall and 1.5' to 2' wide so far this year.

Yes, your BS pressure would certainly be higher in the mid-Atlantic region. My mother, who lives in PEI, Canada, will be ordering this rose this year after seeing them in my garden this summer and falling head over heels in love with it. I cut her a bouquet of this rose every week she was with us this summer. I'll know more how it fares in an Atlantic climate soon enough.

Glad you love it as well. Yes, some of the blooms definately have a more fringy appearance than others. In fact, a few on the bush right now are exceptionally fringy. More so than in the summer. I'm wondering whether the cooler weather is doing this, or whether its just the immaturity of the bushes. I've noticed that the colours of this rose are also immensely variable pending temps, so perhaps it could be related. I've had everything from pure yellow blooms, to yellow tinted with orange and pink on the outer petals to predominantly a yellow/orange blend. It reminds me of Molineux and Morden Sunrise in this respect. How has your Well Being done for BS resistance?

Well Being might indeed make a superb hedge. The flowering ability and growth habit is certainly there for that. My only reservation I would still have at this point is winter hardiness. Even though my friend says it is fine witout protection in his zone 5 garden, I'd prefer to see how they make it through a winter here. Microclimates can play a huge role in cane loss, so to me at least, the jury is still out somewhat on the hardiness aspect. Regarding the blooms, our summers are very hot here, many days over 100F and they last a good 3 or 4 days on the bush in this heat provided the bush is well hydrated. The heat also brings out the fragrance more. The colours do slowly fade on the blooms and they drop cleanly from the plant once spent. Have you considered Morden Sunrise as a yellow blend to use as a hedge? It's a single bloom, but a beautiful one with variable colours as well. It is exceptionally hardy, completely everblooming, has a nice, medium strength scent and disease resistance should be just fine in your climate (it can BS badly in areas with excessive rain and moisture). Since you spray regularly, I would think you would have zero BS issues with Morden Sunrise, or minimal at worst. I have 4 Morden Sunrise too and they suffer only late season BS, but again, I do not spray.

Tivoli Rose,
Beautiful pictures as well. Thanks for supplementing and sharing! :)

Ummmmm....ok. You really should have that insured just like J.Lo did. :)

Lastly, this post wouldn't really be complete without a little more enabling now...would it??? Some more pics. Sorry, but as I said, I literally have taken a hudred photo's of this rose...Enjoy....


clipped on: 02.13.2014 at 01:01 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2014 at 01:02 pm

Well Being- Harkness Shrub Rose

posted by: the_morden_man on 08.25.2006 at 04:18 pm in Roses Forum

I posted this on another forum and figured I would post here also...

This rose is already one of my favorite roses and to me, the best I have planted in quite some time.

Although I personally cannot speak to hardiness yet, I have a rose friend who has grown this through an Ontario winter and indicated that cane dieback was about 50%-60% in a zone 5 winter without protection. Last winter was a mild one, but that is still much hardier than your average shrub rose.

Disease resistance has been "good" to "very good" for me this year. They did exhibit some BS (I do not spray), but I find this not unusual for a 1st year rose since they have to work so hard to establish roots, create growth, bloom, repeat and still fight off pests and disease. Many roses I have planted over the years will BS and/or mildew in the 1st year and then rarely exhibit this again in subsequent years once established. If they do, they usually receive a short stay in my garden.

The vigour of Well Being is quite high and it will grow rapidly once happy in its new home. Mine are all from Pickering and grafted to multiflora and planted with the graft about 3-4" deep.

The blooming is sensational both in quantity and speed of repeat. Even as 1st year plants, these roses have been rarely out of bloom and I would assume that once established, they could be labelled as "continual bloomers".

Well Being grows upright and bushy with very nice, plentiful foilage that shows off the blooms to perfection. It throws out large sprays of bloom that are nicely held above the plant and the necks are strong enough to hold the blooms for good display.

The scent of this rose alone, is almost enough to warrant its inclusion in any garden, even if its other attributes weren't as outstanding, as they in fact are. In 2003, at the city of Nantes in France, it took 1st prize in the competition for perfumed roses. This is the only trial for new roses where prizes are awarded solely on the basis of perfume. The judges described it as follows, "To the offactive senses, it presents a magnificent dominance of citrus, notably grapefruit, infused with lime. This upper note is supported by the character of fruity black-currant, on a base of typical rose perfume. It should be underlined that the rose itself is in harmony with the sheer quality of its perfume."

If this rose was an Austin, you can bet your @ss that it would be one of the most popular and asked for roses around.

I have taken literally a hundred photo's of this rose already this year. I quickly uploaded a few of them for you. My enabling is now complete. Resistance is futile...:)


clipped on: 02.13.2014 at 01:01 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2014 at 01:01 pm

Some before and after showing growth so far

posted by: AquaEyes on 06.13.2013 at 11:41 am in Antique Roses Forum

The "after" shots were taken on June 2, and with all the rain we've been having in my area, there's even more growth as of today (two weeks later). If it wasn't raining right now, I'd go out and take some more pics. And I should really do the whole bunch, since the few below aren't even the most dramatic differences since the bands came.

Bear in mind these are just iPhone shots, and are just meant for reference. I'll be thinking about buying a real camera eventually.



'Sweet Chariot' arrived May 1, potted in 1-gal
 photo SweetChariotMay1_zpsd01f2577.jpg

'Sweet Chariot' as of June 2
 photo SweetChariotJune2_zpsef40eb41.jpg

'Lyda Rose' arrived May 1, potted in 2-gal
 photo LydaRoseMay1_zpsaad7ef03.jpg

'Lyda Rose' as of June 2
 photo LydaRoseJune2_zps3e9ff16f.jpg

'Baltimore Belle' arrived April 26, potted in 2-gal
 photo BaltimoreBelleApril26_zpsb597d498.jpg

'Baltimore Belle' as of June 2 (with tree branch in pot for support)
 photo BaltimoreBelleJune2_zpse9d4a6ec.jpg

'Jaune Desprez' arrived April 26, potted in 2-gal
 photo JauneDesprezApril26_zpscf3a3a72.jpg

'Jaune Desprez' as of June 2 -- see the shoot rising above the first "e" in "Desprez? That shoot is thicker than a pencil, and currently over 12" long. There are also two twigs stuck in the pot for support.
 photo JauneDesprezJune2_zps4cceea8d.jpg


clipped on: 02.11.2014 at 01:50 pm    last updated on: 02.11.2014 at 01:51 pm

RE: Annie Laurie McDowell (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: roseseek on 11.18.2011 at 12:00 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Hello Bart! Yes sir, it's me. Thank you for desiring Annie Laurie. The wonderful lady for whom it is named would have thought that delicious. (I love it, too, thanks!) Yes, Hans buds his plants. The growing season there is short and cool enough to require budding rather than own root. Our hotter, longer Southern California climates are much more beneficial for own root production without requiring expensive artificial heat. Think Mediterranean to South African and you know what I am describing.

Even budded, in cooler, shorter climates any rose will benefit from the extra warmth of a nursery can or other plastic pot. It keeps the soil warmer, stimulating more organic bacterial action, releasing more nutrients into the root zone. Warmer sap pushes more growth, faster, producing a faster maturing plant. You've seen it many times with the other plant types you've grown in pots. I don't know where you are as that information isn't included on your page here, but if it's convenient for you, I would think you could produce a much more developed plant in a significantly shorter period by growing her in a five gallon pot until you think she's ready for planting.

I've long started all of my bare roots in cans until there is a well established root system filling the soil ball. They get there faster and have enough momentum to take off once released to the soil. You don't HAVE to, but I do think it will result in a more mature plant in a much shorter time.

Not letting her flower until she's put on the climbing growth will help greatly, too. If you've grown Rosarium Uetersen, you've already experienced what I've described. That glorious climber will sit, flowering like a dwarf floribunda, for the longest time if not encouraged to climb by not letting it flower.

The large plant pictured on Help Me Find from Valencia, California, put out actual yard long (nearly a meter) flower sprays this summer. Like her mama, she likes flowering on downward hanging wood, so even on a wall, trellis or arch, she hangs the flowers down toward your face for you to enjoy. One of her greatest landscaping charms is the ability to dead head her with a hose. Being virtually seed sterile, the spent flowers will dry and fall off at the point of abscission, where the peduncle joins to the flowering cane. You can shake the whole dried flower off easily (and, being thornless, she won't bite!) or wash her off with a stream of water to blast them off the plant. Because the block wall that plant is on can be rather hot and dry, I frequently blast out all the climbers in that garden with a strong stream of water to dislodge the spent foliage, blooms, spider webs and other debris. They're all clean and healthy and with the drainage there, they appreciate the extra water, both to the plant parts and roots. It makes grooming a lot easier, too. Clean them up today, blast out the debris with the hose, then the lawn guy appears the next day to clean up all the fallen debris with the mower.

I hope you are as happy with Annie Laurie McDowell as she will be with you. I LOVE this rose! Thank you. Kim


clipped on: 02.11.2014 at 11:27 am    last updated on: 02.11.2014 at 11:27 am

RE: Most disease resistant roses for hot and humid (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 07.04.2012 at 12:40 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Summer here is hot and humid: 98 to 100 degrees, 50 to 70% humidity. I don't spray in my garden. All my Romanticas and the ones at the rose park nearby are 100% clean with glossy foliage:

1) Sweet Promise hybrid tea, more like a shrub on steroids, almost thornless, 15 buds/blooms for the fist 2 months. Reddish glossy foliage, very pretty. 5' x 4' - Smell like fresh apple blossoms.

2) Bolero floribunda - glossy foliage, perfection in health, Japanese beetles don't care for it. Compact pretty shrub 3' x 2'. Smell like waterlily.

3) Frederic Mistral - foliage is clean, but very demanding in water. Japanese beetles love this one. Upper branches have no thorns. Smells like expensive perfume.

4) Nahema - foliage is clean - scent is exotic and strong. Almost thornless. It's classified as a climber, but it's more commpact that octopussy Austins. Can be easily grown as an upright shrub. My own-root is really short 2' x 1', like a dwarf compared to Austins.

4) Liv Tyler - check out the picture I posted in the thread "Golden Cel. standing still". Not a speck of diseases in this one. It thrives in hot and humid weather. People report that it could use some afternoon shade so blooms don't fry and it smells yummy apricot.

5) Peter Mayle - I don't grow this one due to its thorns, but others raved about how disease-resistant it is, so I might get it own-root - anyone know if it's less thorny own-root?

6) Pat Austin - not a speck of dieases, glossy foliage. Very compact. She's my favorite among 15 Austins, since she stays compact 2' x 1.5'. Own-root version smells yummy like ripe nectarine. Grafted version smells more tea, not as good. She's the only Austin that doesn't need pruning nor staking.

7) Firefighter - bush looks like "Sweet Promise": Leaves are pretty reddish when young. Upper branches are thornless, great for cutting. Scent lasts for 1 week. Longest vase life. No disease here, even when it's rainy for 24 hours. I like it so much I want one more bush.

8) Honey Bouquet - I abuse this one: plant in the worse soil possible, scorching hot sun, neglected watering .. it's tough and healthy.

9) Singing-in-the-Rain: The best bush at the rose park, more loaded than Knock-out, great color, almost thornless, is in the blackspot resistant group along with Belinda's Dream. I will buy this FOR SURE next year. It outshines Julia Child by far in terms of great color that doesn't fade, more blooms, and more compact. It's 2' x 2.5' here.

10) Apricot Candy: another Meiland hybrid tea that outshines ALL THE HYBRID TEAS at the rose park (more than 1,000 bushes). I saw it in wet non-stop rainy fall, completely healthy while other HTs at the park came down with BS, or look really messy - they spray heavily. It' stood up to rain well, smells great, and best compact form 3'x 2'. This one is worth getting for the look of the bush and the health alone.


clipped on: 02.11.2014 at 11:19 am    last updated on: 02.11.2014 at 11:20 am

RE: Most disease resistant roses for hot and humid (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 07.04.2012 at 01:15 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Warning on Christopher Marlowe: he looks like an unmade bed with octopus canes. I was thinking about killing him for his messiness. He's short but very wide: 3'x 4'. He doesn't make good cut-flower (color fades and smells weird), nor repeat quickly like the single-petal landscape bush.

I forget to mention the 2 roses that I am madly in love with for its compactness and health: Kim Rupert's, or Roseseek's creations: Annie Laurie McDowell and Lynnie. Check out the picture of Annie L.D. I posted in Campanula's thread "No more single-petal white rose".

I don't know how large Annie gets in your climate, but she's even smaller than a mini-rose here, due to her blooming at the expense of growth. She's 100% thornless, so whacking her off is no problem. She's very healthy, and less work than water-hogs Romanticas and Austins. Her scent of lavender and lilac will send you to heaven.

Lynnie is a compact bush 3' x 2'. She's the epitome of health. I plant her in an EXTREMELY CROWDED spot admist tons of perennials, and she has zero blackspot nor mildew. The tall summer phlox next to her is white with mildew, and the Bonica bush previously planted there succumbed to blackspot due to poor air circulation. Kim Rupert bred Lynnie for health, constant blooming, and having no thorns.


clipped on: 02.11.2014 at 11:19 am    last updated on: 02.11.2014 at 11:19 am

RE: What if? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: inkognito on 06.22.2012 at 06:16 pm in Landscape Design Forum

karin: we have been thrashing this around for a while now but with your people vs house need theory you may have hit a nail on its head. There may be a grey area where what a person needs is to tart up the facade but generally speaking this (our landscape) is the place where we live and what we want from it is as variable as we are. What this means is that any formulaic house garden combination is a hit or miss affair.

I have had clients prepared to spend mega bucks on a garden they never intend walking into but want it to look like a picture from the upstairs window. And another who wanted to feel as though they were in an enchanted garden when they walked outside (their words not mine). And this is what a designer taps into. Obviously making your own garden is different yet the process is the same, if you start from "What should I put in my foundation planting scheme?" and then work backwards you are missing out on the magic.


clipped on: 02.06.2014 at 12:49 am    last updated on: 02.06.2014 at 12:49 am

I have run out of room

posted by: hosenemesis on 05.30.2012 at 05:49 pm in California Gardening Forum

I am a frustrated gardener. I have all of these ideas for beautiful beds, but I have run out of room. Someone should invent a virtual reality game like Fantasy Football, but with plants. This is what I want today, after going to nurseries and driving past people's pretty yards.

I want a gold and purple-blue bed with sea statice, gold daylilies and coreopsis, Cosmos 'Bright Lights' and 'Recurring Dream' tall bearded iris. Golden arborvitae and Springtime Viburnum in the background. 'Crystal Palace' lobelia for groundcover.

I want a blue, yellow and white bed with a huge overgrown Cape Plumbago in the background, bright yellow roses like my Henry Fonda, the yellow iris 'That's All Folks' and the blue ones 'Cascadian Rhythm' and 'Victoria Falls,' blue Marguerite daisies, white Shasta or African daisies, and white and yellow yarrow. With dark green myrtle, and a twelve foot tall 'Heavenly Blue' morning glory teepee.

I want a pink, magenta, and peach bed filled with roses and pelargoniums. I want dark cerise-magenta roses like 'Zepherine Drouhin' and dark pink/red roses like Twilight Zone or Darcey Bussell mixed with pale pale pinks like Climbing Eden, with the dainty ivy geraniums in white and pink and dark cerise-magenta, and the big fat Martha Washington pelargoniums in peach. I want lots of magenta and white dianthus for ground cover and clear lovely peach roses like 'Heaven on Earth' and pale complicated roses like 'Ginger Syllabub' and 'Gloire de Dijon.'

What do you want today?


clipped on: 02.05.2014 at 11:05 pm    last updated on: 02.05.2014 at 11:05 pm

RE: Unusual and fun colored climbers (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: michaelg on 10.29.2013 at 04:34 pm in Roses Forum

'Rosarium Uetersen' is a traffic stopper, often a brilliant coral with vermillion and purple reflections. At times it can be salmon pink or a more normal medium red or deep pink, the last being its official color class. All the color variations are vivid and saturated. Looks great with blue and purple companions. It bears great numbers of large fragrant flowers in clusters the size of a volleyball. Mature plants repeat well. It is heat tolerant and resists blackspot in some gardens. It doesn't make true climbing shoots, but sets flowers at the end of temporarily flexible shoots averaging 6'. However, it will cover a good-sized support. I maintain mine at 10' x 10'. Downside, very thorny.


clipped on: 02.05.2014 at 10:59 pm    last updated on: 02.05.2014 at 10:59 pm

RE: climbing rose suggestions (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: nanadoll on 05.14.2013 at 02:25 pm in Roses Forum

Take a look at Colette, a rose I'm really impressed with so far. It has lovely peach blooms, blooms a lot, and just lived through the worst January temps I remember in a at least fifteen years, followed by a series of nasty April freezes (like mid twenties temps). It had absolutely no damage due to the cold. I don't know how tall it will eventually get here since I haven't had it long enough, but I don't think it gets in the supertall range. Diane


clipped on: 02.05.2014 at 10:56 pm    last updated on: 02.05.2014 at 10:56 pm

RE: climbing rose suggestions (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: Nippstress on 05.13.2013 at 03:48 pm in Roses Forum

Another thing to consider is that in my yard, my east side facing wall is a relatively cold zone 4 pocket that needs extra winter hardy plants. On that side of the house, I have John Cabot (hot pink Canadian Explorer"), Ginger Syllabub (relatively infrequent blooming apricot), Autumn Sunset and Westerland (fairly hardy apricot to orange climbers not too tall for me), Eden, and the two Michael mentioned - Ramblin' Red and Quadra. He's absolutely right about their hardiness and disease resistance - the only drawback for your plan is wanting them to stay at 8-10 feet. I've been lazy about getting something official for Quadra to climb on, so he's an ill-tempered standing shrub with aggressively thick canes in every direction. I suspect Quadra (or its counterpart climber Illusion) is strong enough to at least remove the tires from your car, but reinstalling them undamaged would be questionable.

Other more mannerly climbers (so far) in my zone 5 Nebraska yard include:

Nahema - wowza double carnation pink fragrant blooms and a vigorous climber in the first year, covering two panels of a fence in each direction by the second year - hardy and healthy
Compassion - pinkish double climber that has been tip hardy so far, only in its second year for me but has climbed 8-10 feet easily in a friend's yard
Mme. Carolyn Testout - another very hardy pink cilmber that likes thick canes that aren't very flexible but disease resistant
Aloha - I have this Kordes climber as a free standing shrub with things to lean against when it wants to, and it stays within 6-8' under those conditions, though it would like to be taller
Harlekin - another Kordes climber, white with dark pink edges, not as frequent a bloomer as I'd like but very hardy, as Kordes plants are known to be
Awakening - tough as nails pink climber with relatively small blooms - mine takes care of itself in part shade with little or no attention from me all year

I grow quite a few more climbers in zone 5, but some of them I haven't horizontally trained yet as Michael describes, so they have infrequent bloom habits, or they haven't been in more than a year or two to attest to hardiness. I'm sure I've forgotten some real winners, but with some care to hardiness of the rose you should be able to find a rose that meets your requirements.



clipped on: 02.05.2014 at 10:55 pm    last updated on: 02.05.2014 at 10:55 pm

My Sweet Ginger and Other Assorted Stuff

posted by: boxofrox on 07.18.2011 at 08:01 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

We had one little day for a break and then the weather turns south again so I got home and shot a few pics before the blooms get bombarded. My young Ginger is just flat out tickling me, she started blooming about 3 weeks ago and shows no sign of letting up. These are a few shots of some of her sprays and some other stuff. Thanks for looking and hope you enjoy................





White Eden & Kiri Te





First Glad of the Year







The Dark Lady


Nikko Blue




clipped on: 02.05.2014 at 10:50 pm    last updated on: 02.05.2014 at 10:50 pm

RE: Would you like to help me cull my 4b, no-spray, newbie list? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: dsd2682 on 05.25.2013 at 03:30 pm in Roses Forum

Here is a really great resource for you. The Peggy Rockefeller rose garden in NY recently went no spray. They started doing trials and replaced mote than 600 rose bushes and now grow only disease resistant varueties that are hardy in your zone. They now make a top 100 performers list each year that can be found here:

They rank them by performance (disease resistance/bloom production/hardiness) but the 100 top are listed from over 1300 roses and they did not include any one time bloomers in the list. It's by far the best and most recent trial for no spray cold climate roses. They are now testing their best performers to see if they can designate them as "earth kind" (a category for no spray, organically fertilized only roses that give outstanding performance. Belinda's dream, Cecile Bruner and duchess de Brabant all make the cut currently). And they have announced that Kordes roses have almost all been their top performers. Particularly the fairy tale series. So look into those.
Quietness is a great one too. It's a dr griffin buck rose of which there are many other good ones too. All bread to be cold hardy and extremely disease resistant.
I live in S. florida so I don't know much about winter hardiness but I know a lot about black spot resistant roses and some of my best performers are kordes, buck roses and the NEWER Austin's. David Austin has payed a lot of attention to disease resistance in the past 10 years or so, and the new ones are very good performers.

Here is a link that might be useful: Top 100 list from NYBG


clipped on: 02.03.2014 at 12:25 am    last updated on: 02.03.2014 at 12:25 am

RE: Havana Blues? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: rouge21 on 09.30.2012 at 02:00 am in Perennials Forum


I planted 4 very small bare root HB back in late May. It is now in late September that they are each now showing their potential i.e. 'floriferousness' and long duration of flowering.

Not the best quality of picture but it does give you some idea of the good things to come next season.



clipped on: 01.30.2014 at 02:20 pm    last updated on: 01.30.2014 at 02:20 pm

RE: Havana Blues? (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: SunnyBorders on 09.30.2012 at 06:09 pm in Perennials Forum

True, Rouge.

Been putting my gardens pictures, and Merlin's Hollow, on my Buddy Sharon's Blue Garden Cubit and will continue, but I'd really like to put pictures that may be of interest on this Perennial Forum too.

I'm interested particularly in how perennials are put together in beds and how the beds are maintained.

I've only have long-term maintenance contracts on a couple of gardens and there's also our own small garden. I only feel responsible for a garden, if I've been maintaining it over two or three years, or more.

Going to try for a pictures of one of my gardens from last week.


clipped on: 01.30.2014 at 02:19 pm    last updated on: 01.30.2014 at 02:20 pm

RE: Is this a form of Campanula? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: floral_uk on 01.26.2014 at 02:21 pm in Perennials Forum

Hard to tell the species/cultivar at that distance but it certainly looks like a Campanula. Maybe good old C portenschlagiana? It self seeds round here and I put up a photo on GW a while back.


clipped on: 01.28.2014 at 03:30 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2014 at 03:30 pm

RE: record low temps (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: wirosarian on 01.25.2014 at 10:54 am in Roses Forum

Below is a link to an article on the ARS web site that is an interesting read on this topic

Here is a link that might be useful: ARS article


clipped on: 01.26.2014 at 09:50 pm    last updated on: 01.26.2014 at 09:51 pm

RE: Help with my window boxes?? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: nhbabs on 01.12.2014 at 03:54 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

A lot depends on the size of your window boxes. One thing that will give you more choices of plants is to have window boxes that are deeper than typical. Shallower boxes dry out more quickly and have greater temperature swings. I use a moisture absorbing polymer in my pots as well to help maintain a more even moisture level.

Do you like having plants that grow up in front of your windows, or do you only want low-growing and trailing plants?

A couple plants I have grown in containers that are quite tolerant of heat and don't mind if it is a bit dry are Portulaca (moss rose) and the foliage plant Dichondra argentea 'Silver Falls', both of which will spill over the edge. If the boxes are large enough, vines like ornamental sweet potato (foliage plant) and Black-eyed Susan vines (Thunbergia) can be trained upwards on trellises or left to trail down over the side. Nicotiana/ornamental tobacco likes warmth and will bloom continuously for a long time, but you will probalby want to choose a relatively short variety like Little Nicky. I love its evening perfume, rather vanilla-like. Some of the shorter varieties of Cosmos, which likes heat, would probably do well and give you a bit of height also. Verbena is available as both short upright plants and trailing types. I have grown all these plants in full sun conditions that get up into the 90's, though our nights are probably cooler than yours, so I can't be sure that the flowering ones will continue to flower well in your conditions.

You could do a web search for heat-tolerant annuals and read about their size and moisture requirements to decide if you think they fit your needs.

I'll link to a blog that has some stunning cottage style window boxes to give you some inspiration.

Here is a link that might be useful: Deborah Silver's window boxes


clipped on: 01.21.2014 at 12:19 pm    last updated on: 01.21.2014 at 12:19 pm

RE: Loropetalum won't bloom (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: deviant-deziner on 04.07.2013 at 01:53 pm in Landscape Design Forum

Try applying a high phosphorus fertilizer. Commonly the name on these types of fertilizers are "Bloom", Super Bloom, Triple Super Phosphate.
In regards to the later, I prefer a high phosphorus fertilizer that also has a low amount of N and K, iron and the mirco elements so to not lock up and create too much of an unbalance.
A well stocked garden nursery will have this product in stock or any hydroponic or pot growing shop will have it.


clipped on: 01.17.2014 at 03:11 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2014 at 03:12 pm

RE: One of the Most if Not the Most Amazing Garden I Have Ever Se (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mendocino_rose on 01.12.2014 at 06:44 pm in Antique Roses Forum

It does look lovely. We go to Half Moon Bay all the time as a getaway. I'd love to go see the garden. I suppose one could then stay at the Ritz for a honeymoon. How wonderful that you got married there(at Hastings house).
Magical gardens? How about Mottisfont?


clipped on: 01.13.2014 at 03:35 pm    last updated on: 01.13.2014 at 03:35 pm

RE: Agastache in raised beds (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: ssmdgardener on 09.02.2012 at 08:49 pm in Soil Forum

I have horrible clay with no organic matter. When I dig down (actually, I can't dig; I have to chisel), it's yellow rocky clay with no worms, no bugs, no life at all.

I sheet mulched one area using mostly wood chips, coffee grounds and half-finished compost and planted agastache. By this spring, I couldn't dig in there without getting a scoop full of worms. The agastache there are going nuts.

I'm gonna guess that the area has about 6 inches of sheet mulching on top of the clay. I didn't have to do any supplemental watering at all this summer.


clipped on: 01.11.2014 at 12:16 am    last updated on: 01.11.2014 at 12:16 am

RE: Agastache in raised beds (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: gardengal48 on 09.02.2012 at 05:53 pm in Soil Forum

Lean soil is not the issue - drainage is. As long as one provides good drainage, especially during the colder times of the year, agastache should be fine.

In fact, one of the largest breeders/hybridzers of agastache suggests this: "Best in well drained, fertile soil. Needs excellent drainage to overwinter."


clipped on: 01.11.2014 at 12:14 am    last updated on: 01.11.2014 at 12:14 am

RE: Agastache in raised beds (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: a2zmom on 09.02.2012 at 04:28 pm in Soil Forum

I'm a long time grower of agastache in medium clay.

In my regular bed, what I do is dig out the clay, cover the bottom of the hole with chicken grit (tiny pebbles), then use a 1/4 sand, 1/4 composted manure and the soil I dug out mixed together. That seems to work fine.

However, last year I created a new bed using the lasagna method. Very rich soil but also very good drainage. I planted three tiny agastache plants (acapulco orange) and, as you can see, the rich soil poised no problem.


clipped on: 01.11.2014 at 12:12 am    last updated on: 01.11.2014 at 12:12 am

RE: On taking cuttings and overwintering salvia, agastache (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: rich_dufresne on 09.19.2007 at 11:45 am in Salvia Forum

Penstemons and agastaches should be hardy for you, which is good, because you need cuttings from the spring and autumn basal, robust flushes of growth to get good cuttings.

With Salvias, you need robust growth as well (green wood), and bottom heat works well. Seasons are not as critical as is the robustness of growth.

Your plans will be more compact in the unheated space. In the heated area, I hope you like a cool house. Otherwise, the plants will be thin, leggy, and prone to spider mites.

Please use a sterile rooting medium, not dirt or water. The grittier and airier the media the better. Do not use beach sand, which has rounded sand grains. Builders sand is washed, and should have sharp edges to the grains.


clipped on: 01.07.2014 at 02:32 pm    last updated on: 01.07.2014 at 02:32 pm

RE: Acapulco Trio Agastache (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: echinaceamaniac on 05.29.2013 at 03:33 pm in Perennials Forum

I planted them together as they were in the pot. This is the 3rd year that every single plant returned here. They obviously like Tennessee. I did add lots of composted cow manure to these beds. It's the Black Kow brand I found at Lowes. It has some sand in it.

To root these I take the cuttings and dip in rooting powder. I put them under constant lighting from a shop light. I covered them with plastic and poked a few holes in the plastic. They need more air than other cuttings. Keep them damp but not soggy.


clipped on: 01.07.2014 at 02:29 pm    last updated on: 01.07.2014 at 02:29 pm

RE: Acapulco Trio Agastache (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: wonbyherwits on 08.05.2011 at 08:24 pm in Perennials Forum

Acapulco will hate wet winter, as mentioned. Mixing in a bit of sharp gravel to the soil can help with drainage. Don't cut back the agastache until you see basal new growth next spring.

They will actually overwinter better when not hit by the morning sun when there is a frost. In my garden, the agastache on the south and west (I have nothing on the north but woods) sides of the house do better than on the east side due to that morning sun... same with my salvias.



clipped on: 01.07.2014 at 02:26 pm    last updated on: 01.07.2014 at 02:26 pm