Clippings by vasue

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

RE: Savannah Kordes hybrid tea anyone growing? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: vasue on 01.29.2015 at 01:56 pm in Roses Forum

Here's another pic of Savannah, this one showing apricot centers with pale pink edges...

Here is a link that might be useful: Savannah


clipped on: 01.29.2015 at 01:56 pm    last updated on: 01.29.2015 at 01:56 pm

RE: non-Austin English roses (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: Nippstress on 01.24.2015 at 01:57 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I agree that a lot of other breeders are doing essentially modern reproductions of older rose forms, though they may not call them this. The Renaissance series from Meilland is a favorite of mine, and I agree that Guillot and Massad and Kordes have some roses to qualify, though they are less likely to be scented very much. If you want a full Austin-like flower and to die for scent, look at Barcelona/Francis Dubreuil though. All of these are very hardy and healthy in my zone 5 yard, and pretty reliable rebloomers. Here are some photos to tempt you:

Bonita Renaissance

Bonita Renaissance June 2013 photo BonitaRenaissanceBloomJune2013.jpg


Celeb Bloom June 2013 photo CelebBloomJune2013.jpg

Champagne Moment (Kordes)

Champagne Moment Aug 2013 photo ChampagneMomentAug2013.jpg

Countess Celeste (Kordes)

Countess Celeste Bloom June 2013 photo CountessCelesteBloom2June2013.jpg

Cream Flower Circus (Kordes)

Cream Flower Circus June 2013 photo DSCN0140.jpg

Elizabeth Stuart

Elizabeth Stuart June 2013 photo ElizabethStuartBloomsJune2013.jpg

Floral Fairy Tale

Floral Fairy Tale June 2013 photo FloralFairyTaleBloomJune20132.jpg

Francis Dubreuil

FrancisDubreuilBloom3 Jun14 photo FrancesDubreuilbloom3June2014-1.jpg

Grand Duc Henri

Grand Duc Henri Spray June 2013 photo GrandDucHenriLgSprayJune2013.jpg

Heaven on Earth

HeavenonEarthSpray Jun2014 photo HeavenonEarthsprayJune2014-1.jpg

Laura (Clements)

Laura June 2013 photo LauraBloomJune2013.jpg

Leonardo da Vinci

LeonardodaVinciBloomJun14 photo LeonardodaVincibloom1June2014-1.jpg

Of course, if you want an antique look it doesn't get any better in my yard than a true antique like Madame Isaac Periere (and the fragrance is to die for)

Mme Isaac Periere June 2013 photo MIsaacPBloomJune2013.jpg

MmeIsaacPeriere LgSpray June 2013 photo MmeIsaacPeriere2gd.jpg


Michaelangelo June 2013 photo MichaelangeloJune2013.jpg

For a climber, Nahema is tough as nails and has an Austin look, as do some other Delbard roses

NahemaBloomsJun14 photo NahemabloomsJune2014-1.jpg

Paul Bocuse

Paul Bocuse Bloom June 2013 photo PaulBocuseBloomJune2013-1.jpg

You'd mentioned Sonia Rykiel

Sonia Rykiel Bloom June 2013 photo SoniaRykielBloomJune2013.jpg

St. Elizabeth of Hungary is a tough and largely under-appreciated mauve that I really like

St. Elizabeth of Hungary June 2013 photo StElizofHungaryBloomsJune2013.jpg

Even a very modern Easy Elegance rose, Sweet Fragrance, has what I would call an Austin look - sadly I don't actually detect a fragrance from it, but I'm not a good judge of this in general

Sweet Fragrance June 2013 photo DSCN0169a.jpg


 photo VolunteerSept2014.jpg

And frankly, I think Versigny out-Austins the Austins

Versigny Blooms June 2013 photo VersignyBloomBudJune2013.jpg

Just some examples to get you thinking!



clipped on: 01.27.2015 at 01:25 pm    last updated on: 01.27.2015 at 01:25 pm

RE: Bareroot roses and cardboard to prevent weeds (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: roseseek on 01.25.2015 at 12:17 pm in Roses Forum

OK, be careful. A layer of cardboard, with or without mulch, can prevent water from penetrating into the soil and keep oxygen transfer from occurring. Whatever you put down to prevent weeds has to be water and air permeable or it will stunt and perhaps kill the plantings you desire there. If you are where heavy rains don't occur, forget the cardboard if you want anything to grow there. It's going to take some pretty respectable rainfall to penetrate it and get into the soil.

Soil "breathes" from water penetrating, pushing out the carbon dioxide "exhaled" by the plant roots and any other gases which may form from bacterial or fungal activity, drawing in fresh air as is flows downward. Sealing it off with a layer of cardboard (or anything else not easily water and air permeable) is like putting your head inside a plastic bag. Even if you punch a few small holes in the bag, it is still going to be difficult to inhale oxygen and expel the carbon dioxide.

Your roses will be better off with a deep, organic mulch over the soil surface without the cardboard. If you must add the cardboard, you honestly should poke MANY larger holes in it all over its surface to permit as much air and water exchange through it as possible. If you still wish to use the bark chips, a screen like material which permits all the water and air possible to be drawn into and out of the soil would work better as far as plant growth is concerned.

Once the plants are installed properly, the mulch can be installed. Good luck. Kim


clipped on: 01.25.2015 at 09:09 pm    last updated on: 01.25.2015 at 09:09 pm

RE: Yellow/apricot rose for arbour (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: michaelg on 08.09.2010 at 10:39 am in Antique Roses Forum

I like Papi Delbard. It is a yellow-cream-pink-apricot blend, very large with fruity fragrance, resistant to blackspot. Not unduly vigorous. Repeat seems average for modern climbers.


clipped on: 01.22.2015 at 05:53 pm    last updated on: 01.22.2015 at 05:53 pm

RE: Good climber for central AL? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: pat_bamaZ7 on 04.02.2014 at 10:39 am in Roses Forum

Hi lilamy,
I'm in North Alabama...about 50 miles north of B'ham. It's been a long time since I grew New wasn't a good repeater for me, but was in too much shade which I'm sure contributed to that. It's a very thorny rose for a climber, too. I have its offspring, Blossomtime, now. It's almost as thorny, but a much better rose for me overall. I'm not growing it as an actual climber, though, so not sure how easily it can be trained to's marketed as a climber, but canes are fairly stiff on it. The climbing version of Clotilde Soupert or almost any of the noisettes would also be good choices here. Petals from the Past, just south of B'ham in Jemison, carries Blossomtime, Clotilde Soupert Cl, a good selection of noisettes and other climbers (they have a wider selection of roses than their website shows).


 photo zzzbt1026c_zps2ad4bfbe.jpg

Clotilde Soupert (mine is the bush form, but Petals from the Past highly recommends the climber for our area, too)

 photo zzzclotilde1021a_zpsbc10ba5b.jpg

Natchitoches Noisette

 photo zzznn1021a_zps5c07c20f.jpg

This post was edited by pat_bamaZ7 on Wed, Apr 2, 14 at 15:24


clipped on: 01.21.2015 at 04:29 pm    last updated on: 01.21.2015 at 04:29 pm

RE: Anyone still grow Blossomtime? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: jim_east_coast_zn7 on 12.12.2008 at 05:45 pm in Roses Forum

My reason for growing it in a pot is this: When I moved from CA to VA, I dug up most of my roses from the ground and moved them, having to really chop off the roots and then the canes.
When I realized in VA that a move might be in the future, I wanted to make my roses more mobile and felt putting them in pots would be less traumatic since I could move them pot and all. At that point all my new roses or propagated roses were planted in pots.When winter came in VA, I had several piles of wood chips from having trees cut down so I leveled off the tops of the piles and dug holes in the chips( real easy) and sunk the pots into them. The roses did very well. I had thought they would be in this situation for a year or 2 but it has ended up to about four-TOO LONG. The roses have been happy and thrived despite no spray and no fertilizer and lots of neglect the last few years. What happened was they sent roots out of the pots and into the wood chip pile. This summer, fall, I have moved about 60 or so roses, pots and all to NY. They have all done well except for Buff Beauty (never too vigorous for me) and many were pumping out blooms in November despite no spray nor fertilizer but just watering.
I did have to chop the roots back to release the pots. I have not brought my BT up yet. It had large perfectly formed blooms on the bush in November. The plant is about 6 feet tall and the pot is tilted so it leans west. Healthy as can be. I would use BT as a large free standing shrub, possibly in the lawn as a focal point. I would not put them in pots but directly in the ground. They get the size of a large forsythia bush or a small lilac. The canes seem too stiff for a climber and it makes a lovely plant so I would prune it minimally. This is how it did for me in Richmond VA- New York may tell another tale. You will love BT, one of the best in my opinion.
Hope this helps,


clipped on: 01.21.2015 at 04:25 pm    last updated on: 01.21.2015 at 04:25 pm

RE: your favorite BS resistant yellow or apricot rose for cutting (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: vedazu on 05.09.2010 at 09:22 pm in Roses Forum

It seems that everything in South Jersey gets BS, but two roses that never get it are Mother of Pearl and Apricot Candy. They both have quite long stems and bloom non-stop for me. I am very busy and do what I can in the garden, but I'm not able to spray consistently and to do what I would like to for them--these two just keep churning out beautiful blooms and have no diseases--ever.


clipped on: 01.19.2015 at 08:23 pm    last updated on: 01.19.2015 at 08:23 pm

RE: What's a good, tall apricot climber? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: littlesmokie on 12.21.2014 at 01:46 pm in Roses Forum

Apricot is a hard color, variable & (here) tends to pinkish. Also I hesitate to recommend as I'm in warmer zone & don't know if these could hit desired height...?
First thought: Polka?
Crepuscule? (I think it wants a warmer zone...)
If you'd consider even more variable color (peachy/pink/yellow):
Della Balfour? (I had this climber for years as free standing shrub on northeast wall...nice fragrance, good disease resistance no spray, got tall, & bloomed decently in partial shade.)
Compassion? (salmon pink/peach fades to buff. Much more pink but I prefer this over Della fragrance/health/good cut/shade tolerance/free standing--it's the only rose of all those I've listed that I still grow.)

Austin has apricot climbers (but no personal experience with ultimate size/shade tolerance):
crown princess margarita?
Abraham Darby?

Just a few ideas :)

Here is a link that might be useful: Polka at helpmefind


clipped on: 01.19.2015 at 02:31 pm    last updated on: 01.19.2015 at 02:31 pm

Best climber in the garden

posted by: lynnette on 07.16.2014 at 12:17 pm in Roses Forum

Kordes Aloha Hawaii gives me no problems at all. Always has flowers but only a faint fragrance. Really takes off the first year so it perfect for growing over an archway.


clipped on: 01.19.2015 at 02:29 pm    last updated on: 01.19.2015 at 02:29 pm

RE: Need help choosing a new climber (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: michaelg on 06.02.2014 at 02:47 pm in Roses Forum

Sounds like you want a traffic stopper. Mine is 'Rosarium Uetersen', which produces masses of large, fairly fragrant flowers in vivid salmon pink, coral, or medium red, depending on the weather I guess. All the colors pop aggressively. Established plants repeat well. On the downside, it has large, sharp thorns. Mine is about 10 x12' on a support. It is vigorous and makes lots of canes to 8' that are flexible when young. Laterals 4' to 6' allow dense coverage of a trellis or arbor and flowers all the way to the ground. It does not make great long canes like 'New Dawn'. It is resistant to blackspot in some gardens, but there is a strain that affects it in others.


clipped on: 06.03.2014 at 02:50 pm    last updated on: 01.19.2015 at 02:26 pm

RE: Easiest Climbing Rose? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: phylrae on 01.20.2008 at 04:14 pm in Roses Forum

I will cut & paste what a representative of Palatine Roses wrote me just the other day about a few of their newer climbers:

"Laguna is the most fragrant climber in our line up. The hot pink old fashion quarter bloom is very stunning. However, you must know that it grows very vigorous and almost like a rambler it will need to be tied up regularly (the exact words of my father � it is all over the place). Another rose you may consider is Rosanna. We feel that it is stunning and showy. It has a globular pink bloom. It is more civilized and 10 ft tall. Rosanna has the highest tolerance to both mildew and black spot. Laguna is slightly more susceptible to mildew. Both will be OK for your Zone (zone 5a)".

I have no idea on how thorny they are. Jasmina also looks very nice (to me). Their rootstock is multiflora, which is good for our winters. I also hear great things about Fourth of July. I hope lots of people from cold zones post, as I am interested as well.
:0) Phyl


clipped on: 01.19.2015 at 12:09 pm    last updated on: 01.19.2015 at 12:09 pm

Well, the great kitchen renovation has begun... before, demo pics

posted by: purrus on 09.17.2014 at 10:47 am in Kitchens Forum


Layout (pardon my horrible graphics abilities)
 photo Screenshot2013-01-31at92111PM_zps1ccbe488.png

Look from entrance of house to kitchen/eat in kitchen
 photo entrytokitch_zps8e563261.jpg

Looking from existing kitchen to existing DR
 photo drfromkitch_zps226dec32.jpg

Existing fridge wall
 photo IMG_2151_zps08375ea3.jpg

Looking into kitchen from eat-in kitchen
 photo IMG_2149_zpsfd72f92c.jpg

 photo IMG_2152_zpse6c2fd3e.jpg

Plans (yes, I know the placement of the DW is controversial and I'm OK with it):
 photo kitchenoverhead_zps83467700.jpg

 photo kitchenfridgewall_zps8ca9b541.jpg

 photo kitchenpeninsula_zpsf2d4dd94.jpg

 photo sinkwall_zps44fb8303.jpg

Cabinet and countertop choices
 photo IMG_8593_zps09dbd163.jpg


clipped on: 01.19.2015 at 11:23 am    last updated on: 01.19.2015 at 11:23 am

Finally, my reveal

posted by: purrus on 01.18.2015 at 02:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hello everyone,

Our kitchen has been done for almost three months now--I can't believe it!! I relied on this board HEAVILY for advice and also for stopping me from making several very bad expensive decisions with regard to layout mistakes. I am seriously indebted to all of the posters here.

Here's the thread with before pictures and progress pictures. Before you look at the after pictures, really, you MUST look at the awful, truly hideous before pictures. I can't believe we live in the same house.

 photo IMG_2149_zpsfd72f92c.jpg

 photo IMG_2148_zpsb7368e7a.jpg

 photo IMG_2150_zps48d0736d.jpg

Reveal in next post.


clipped on: 01.19.2015 at 11:08 am    last updated on: 01.19.2015 at 11:08 am

RE: Suggestions on transplanting? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: vasue on 01.18.2015 at 04:59 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I tie up the canes loosely in layers to begin, which is often easier than trying to bundle the growth in one swoop, starting with the central uprights at several points along the canes & then easing in the side growth separately a section at a time. This is to protect both the bush & myself during digging & transport. If the bush will stand upright in a vehicle, that's usually enough bundling & the bush looks something like a tied Christmas tree. If it will need to ride to a new location lying on its side, I wrap the entire bush again after it's out of the ground with an old sheet, blanket, landscape fabric, tarp or even bubble & kitchen plastic wrap in a pinch that's tied, bungie-corded, masking taped or stapled to hold in place. I typically don't cut canes back even if the rose is in full growth (in which case it will be replanted the same day), and never when dormant, letting the rose decide which growth it will continue to support. Depending on the age & growth of the rose, this method may be more than what's necessary, but the approach remains the same even with smallish roses & proportionate tools. Keep in mind my soil is clay-based loam which holds together well under this type of treatment when damp, and I water the plant beforehand to make sure it is. Other types of soils may act differently.

For a good-sized rose, takes several tools for the excavation - a trench shovel with a long & narrow rectangular blade that's slightly dished, a long-handled rounded contractor's shovel deeply dished, a narrow planter's shovel or spade & a sturdy pitchfork to use as a fulcrum. If you don't have a trench shovel, a bulb digger will serve, or any tool that will yield a trench. Improvise as needed with what;s on hand. Once the bush is bundled, eyeball a wide circle around the base where you anticipate the rootball extends, take a step or two back from that & begin digging a narrow trench to mark the perimeter outside that rootzone in a circle. If your roses are planted closely, you'll have less room to maneuver but do the best you can. (I've often needed to dig adjacent plants first to get at the target plant.) Go around the circle you've made, digging another shovel deeper with each pass until you reach the depth you want (or run out of steam). At this point you'll have a narrow straight-sided "tub" encircling the roots, and be ready to dig out a bowl of soil containing the roots using the contractor's shovel. Drop that into the trench with the blade toward the rose & step on it to drive it as deep as you comfortably can. The blade's shape will angle a dished wedge under the plant. Pull it back out - any soil it may hold will fall away due to the angle - and do it again next to the first cut till you've worked your way around the circle. Using a planter's shovel or spade (or whatever you have that'll do the job), clear the loose soil at the bottom of the trench if need be, and do another round with the contractor's shovel to cut under & toward the rose. When you're done digging this bowl of roots, leave the contractor's shovel under the rose, bear down on the handle to rock the rose away from you & go around the bowl repeating this till it's free.

The next stage is easier with two but can be done by one. Slide the contractor's shovel under the bowl, lever the handle down to raise the bowl & slide the pitchfork backside up under the shovel blade to hold it steady in that position. Now you can bundle the roots. I use landscape fabric cut in lengths to "diaper" the roots, but burlap or plastic or what have you would work. If using rolls, cut a generous piece long enough to to extend along the bottom of the bowl and cover the top on either side with overlap. If using a sheet or tarp, fold it several times lengthwise so you can fan it out later. Pushing it with both hands either side of the middle, slide it down under the raised part of the bowl & tuck it in the best you can. You can tug at the free ends above ground to straighten the strip. Bear down on the shovel handle to free the pitchfork, pull up the shovel & put another length of fabric down on the opposite side of the bowl in the same way, tucking the second strip under the first where they meet. Use another strip at right angles to the first two. If using a sheet, pull the free edge of the folds toward you. If using a heavy trash bag, slip the open bag onto one side & adjust from the opposite side. You want the roots supported when you remove the plant, or the weight of the soil itself may break them away. Work with the size of your captive root mass & fabric width till you have the root ball covered below & above, then gather & fasten it around the rose base

Now you just have to get it up & out of the hole it's sitting in! If it's not too large, you can usually tug or push or pull it out. If you have a second set of hands, a pot-lifter works well, steadied by a piece of board if the mass is heavier. I've gone all the way to boards, metal baskets, chains & tractor for the really big guys, but you need to be pretty determined to move those. Yours sound very doable. Good luck!


clipped on: 01.18.2015 at 05:04 pm    last updated on: 01.19.2015 at 09:09 am

RE: Jubilee Celebration & Queen of Sweden (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: vasue on 01.18.2015 at 12:55 pm in Antique Roses Forum

The Endeavour's done very well through hot humid summers & freeze-thaw winters for 8 years now in central VA, where blackspot pressure is very high. Planted by the steps of the front porch, this rose catches my eye multiple times a day. Very rarely over the years have I seen a single leaf beginning to spot, stripped & trashed the entire leaflet. That's pretty much it for fungal control in this no spray garden, so have to agree with Austin's assessment of "very healthy" on this one in regard to blackspot in this garden. Mildew is an occasional fleeting problem here solved with plain water hose spray, and I've not seen this rose affected.

I'm still enchanted by this rose in every way. Very willing to bloom in rapid repeat with snap deadheading, large old style flowers up to 5", mostly in clusters, that open slowly as they expand, lasting in full bloom a week in heat & longer in cool, with other buds opening in staggered sprays, so by the time the first flush is waning, the next is right behind. Blooms begin warm salmon pink with amber undertones, transforming daily with infusions of apricot & peach till finally overlaid with dusty lavender. The petals show a silky sheen & the flowers are exquisite, as is the deeply satisfying old rose & fruit salad complex perfume. This rose is grafted, yet shows a graceful slightly arching vase shape 3' high & wide. An own root twin is scheduled to arrive this Spring & take its place at the other side of the steps. Will be the only Austin duplicate here, an indication of how highly I value this rose. A heart-throbber!

Seldom take the camera to the garden, so unfortunately have no pics to share. All of your photos convinced me to rectify that this year! Marina's portraits at HMF capture the beauty of this rose before it attains a blend of hues.

Here is a link that might be useful: Marina's The Endeavour photos

This post was edited by vasue on Sun, Jan 18, 15 at 13:00


clipped on: 01.18.2015 at 01:06 pm    last updated on: 01.18.2015 at 01:06 pm

RE: Opinions,OK to mix old and new roses? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: vasue on 01.17.2015 at 03:43 pm in Roses Forum

Warning: long post!

Recall this stipulation, but pulled out a 1993 copy of "David Austin's English Roses - Glorious New Roses for American Gardens" to see if he gave a reason. Under Practical Considerations on page 50, he advises avoiding close competition from neighboring plants (without further detail concerning aggressive or suckering roots of some roses or the rootstocks upon which they may be grafted). He emphasizes that the ability to bloom more than once is not natural to roses but due to hybridizing efforts, and that flowering over a long period with packed double petals "puts considerable strain upon the plant", making it less able to withstand close competition. He extends his conclusion to a majority of other repeat flowering roses. "This problem is not of course unique to English Roses and applies just as much to certain repeat-flowering China, Bourbon and Portland Roses as well as to Hybrid Teas and Floribundas." (My takeaway - pay attention to the habits of any companions both above & below ground, including other roses, when contemplating & planting for compatibility - a standard cautionary principle in most types of gardening.)

Austin further concludes it's unlikely for such roses to also display luxurious dense growth at the same time so much of the plants' effort goes into repeat blooming. Since his stated ideal is a bushy frame for his flowers, the workaround is his famous formula of planting closely in threes of one variety, giving the effect of one full shrub. (He acknowledges this may not be practical in small gardens "where everything is on a reduced scale, planting singly is, of course, completely justified,..") Somehow the competition issue for this 3-as-1 rose scheme among its components is disregarded in favor of fuller appearance & design impact.

On page 52, he states "English Roses can be treated in much the same way as Old Roses, except that their extended flowering means that you may have to think more carefully about the colors of surrounding plants. There is no set of rules to which you must adhere, and the possibilities for pursuing your own ideas in the garden are infinite." Don't find anything in this book that speaks to physical incompatibility between old & old style roses with modern roses. Seems more that such a mix offends Austin's personal standards of Good Taste. In gardens where roses are not given segregated borders to themselves, he feels English Roses far superior to HT's & Floribundas "whose harsh colors and hard lines make them unsuitable companions in mixed borders." As Nancy posted to start this thread, "In one of David Austin's books he said that old and old style roses should not be in a bed with modern roses." Believe here we get to the heart of the matter from Austin's perspective:

"Perhaps the worst mistake that one can make with the English Roses is to treat them as just another Modern Rose. When planted in the same border as Hybrid Teas and Floribundas the particular beauty of the English Roses is all but destroyed: the two just do not mix."

Never mind those "infinite possibilities" - the Master has spoken. Personally, I'm in the whatever-floats-your-boat camp & like to intermix styles & bloom forms with roses as well as companions, but mine is a garden with roses rather than a rose garden. Floribunda Easy Does It centers the front porch bed by the walkway, Golden Celebration rises obelisked behind & HT Fragrant Cloud spreads out to the rear by the porch. Two more arching Austins use the obelisk for partial support & mixed perennials flow within the bed around them. I find they enhance each other & the whole composition pleasing.

"For American Gardens" prompted me to buy this book when it came out, but I puzzled over the heights & widths given for his individual roses & wondered whether any had actually been grown in the various climates here in the USA to verify their likely dimensions. Golden Celebration is listed as 4 x 4', yet here in the Upper South confined within an obelisk reaches 9' & if left unsupported would easily cover 15' wide. Since Golden Celebration was only introduced in '92 & the book published in '93, suspected these were merely guesses based on anticipated English climate growth rates. Of the private gardens photographed, 6 of 12 mentioned in Acknowledgments are American, all Californian. Finding scant information pertinent to the USA besides a few mentions of ARS ratings without the usual specific numbers but instead "good" or "excellent", can't recommend this book for stateside gardeners interested in what Austin had to say about his releases up to 22 years ago. Consider it another promotional piece, rather a hardbound expanded catalog, and still annoyed at myself for falling for the title rather than examining the book closely prior to purchase.


clipped on: 01.17.2015 at 03:50 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2015 at 03:50 pm

Chamblee's or Roses Unlimited?

posted by: vasue on 01.16.2015 at 10:56 pm in Roses Forum

Trying to compare prices & shipping of gallons from these two suppliers in order to stretch my rose budget. For those of you who've received mail orders from both companies, how did they compare in root & stem growth quality & quantity & condition when they arrived? Did they appear equally well grown? Did they prosper for you? Do you feel one company's roses are superior to the other's in general, and prefer one over the other?

Placed my first order with Chamblee's last Spring & am happy with the health & size when they arrived as well as their growth last year. Many pots held more than one rooted cutting, with one sporting 4 plants. Ordered 8 roses, 4 @$9 & 4 @$10, for a total of $76. Shipping was less than $28 to Virginia ($3.50 each) & the grand total $103, making the inclusive cost per rose delivered between $12.50 & $13.50.

I've not yet ordered from RU. Their prices begin at $17 per rose, so if I'd placed an order for the same 8 roses the cost would have been $136 versus $76, or $60 more. Their shipping includes $5 per order, $5 per rose to Virginia, $5 credit card processing fee or $50 versus $28 for 8 roses or $22 more. The same 8 varieties would have come to $181, making the delivered cost per rose $22.60. So the same roses from RU would have been $83 more than the Chamblee's order.

I've not yet ordered from RU, though I plan to this year. They carry a more varied selection, including some on my wish list for some time, and seem to have an equally positive customer satisfaction feedback. For roses both companies carry, expect to order from Chamblee's for the savings. If you feel the roses aren't equal, for example if RU's roses arrive more mature & take off more quickly, will reconsider. Much appreciate your insight!


clipped on: 01.16.2015 at 10:57 pm    last updated on: 01.16.2015 at 11:01 pm

RE: Light Pink Climber for fence in HOT summers (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: daisyincrete on 01.16.2015 at 03:01 am in Roses Forum

What about Colombian Climber?
I bought mine in the winter of 2008. It had to live in a pot for a year,
It started flowering straight away.

colombian climber photo P5140063.jpg

It has never, never, never, ever had a day without a bloom since.
Here it is the first year after planting.

 photo 056.jpg

a couple of years later...

Garden 2011

...and earlier last year....


... and in the heat of August.

aug2014 076

It has never had any disease. It has a beautiful, sweet scent which is just as strong, whether it is midsummer,or midwinter.


clipped on: 01.16.2015 at 03:41 pm    last updated on: 01.16.2015 at 03:41 pm

RE: ratings for Reconciliation, Royal Pageant (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: littlesmokie on 12.19.2009 at 04:41 pm in Roses Forum

I have grown Compassion (7 years) and Royal Pageant (5 years.) Both have very good disease resistance no spray in a part sun/shade growing area.

Compassion blooms a lot more, the fragrance is stronger than Royal Pageant, and Compassion lasts better in the landscape and as a cut flower.

The flowers of Royal Pageant blow really fast but they have a nice ruffled sort of look (similar to-but smaller than-Just Joey if you are familiar with that rose's open bloom.)

The fragrance of Compassion is similar to my nose to Tiffany and Elle, if you are familiar with those roses. It's one of my favorite fragrances, but it's NOT a typical strong damask/"rose" scent. I think of it as sweet fruity, maybe a bit peachy? but only moderate in strength.

Reconciliation would be much smaller than either Compassion or Royal Pageant. Compassion can be grown/pruned as an upright self-supporting shrub, but in my experience Royal Pageant wants to grow much larger (and does so at the expense of producing flowers when I've tried to curtail it's growth) and does need some support.

I purchased Compassion ownroot from Heirloom Roses and Royal Pageant (whose true name is Della Balfour, I believe Heirloom renamed it?) from Pickering on multiflora rootstock.

Hope that helps...


clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 12:45 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2015 at 12:58 pm

RE: Deep pink or apricot climber (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: ceterum on 05.24.2010 at 10:46 pm in Roses Forum

I love Compassion and it is also very clean here and produces wonderfully fragrant flowers but it has relatively stiff canes and I doubt that it will grow that high. It is a wonderful rose though.
Papi Delbard isn't that high either. I have this rose for about 6 or 7 years and I train it on a Monet umbrella trellis and I never found that it outgrew it. It is, no doubt, gorgeous and the foliage is clean. If it is well fed and watered, the flowers are enormous and the variations in colors are amazing to me (in case the thrips don't get the flowers first) but the rose isn't a tall climber. News to me from Michael that the flowers are good for cutting - I never tried to cut the flowers for the house.

Here is a not very good photo of Papi Delbard from 2008 when the rose was glorious but the photographer could not hold the camera straight :-))

Papi Delbard

I you want to try a Noisette, there is Reve d'Or(again: sort of apricot with gold). I planted it in the spring (got the plant own root from Chamblee's) and it grows like crazy but did not flower a lot yet. However, in the first year not many climber will flower a lot. Grafted plants do have an advantage over own roots in this respect, no question about it -my first year Jasmina is blooming and loaded with buds (grafted, also from Pickering). The Noisette Crepuscule is positively apricot but I am told that it is slow growing and it is not available grafted now (mine is grafted, so it wasn't slow).

Crepuscule on our pergola


All in all, if you want a fast growing, very double, very fragrant climber with clean foliage, I would recommend a grafted Laguna from Palatine or Pickering.


clipped on: 01.15.2015 at 12:55 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2015 at 12:55 pm

RE: Deep pink or apricot climber (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: dublinbay on 05.24.2010 at 01:48 pm in Roses Forum

Viking Queen is a nice rich pink and quite disease-resistant also. Since mine is wrapped around a pillar, I particularly like the flexibility of VQ's canes. I highly recommend this climber.



clipped on: 01.15.2015 at 12:54 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2015 at 12:54 pm

RE: Deep pink or apricot climber (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: michaelg on 05.24.2010 at 12:56 pm in Roses Forum

Yes, Papi Delbard is a shrubby climber with basal shoots so far only around 7'. It is also rather stiff. But I think it benefits from support, because the very large, heavy flowers sometimes hang downward. I really like this rose and appreciate Ceterum's recommending it a few years ago.


clipped on: 01.15.2015 at 12:54 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2015 at 12:54 pm

RE: Deep pink or apricot climber (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: michaelg on 05.23.2010 at 02:14 pm in Roses Forum

Or Papi Delbard for apricot. It also is disease resistant, fragrant, and gorgeous.

ZD is highly susceptible to blackspot and powdery mildew and didn't bloom much after June.


clipped on: 01.15.2015 at 12:53 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2015 at 12:53 pm

RE: Deep pink or apricot climber (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ceterum on 05.22.2010 at 07:44 pm in Roses Forum

I second Hoovb, for deep pink get Laguna from Palatine or Pickering nurseries. I do garden in NC and I also have ZD that I like very much but Laguna is totally disease free and has gorgeous very double and very fragrant flowers.

Hoovb, I am so glad that I see yours in full bloom! Gorgeous!!! I am deadheading mine but I will never be done with that many flowers (L. finished sooner more or less due to the unusual very drying winds we had but I already see new buds!)

Here is Laguna in coastal NC



clipped on: 01.15.2015 at 12:52 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2015 at 12:52 pm

RE: The Black Spot Resistance Hoax (Follow-Up #68)

posted by: henry_kuska on 09.18.2014 at 11:00 pm in Roses Forum

"All the white roots on the Larch seedlings in picture are 'Friendly Fungi' roots, the thicker red/brown roots are the Larch's roots. This fungal network increases the volume of soil explored by the plant by up to 700 times."

"Picture of Mycorrhizal fungi on plant:

Here is a link that might be useful: link to picture


clipped on: 01.14.2015 at 11:48 am    last updated on: 01.14.2015 at 11:48 am

RE: The Black Spot Resistance Hoax (Follow-Up #56)

posted by: henry_kuska on 09.17.2014 at 05:39 pm in Roses Forum

When I first joined a rose club in the early 70s, the accepted advice was that in northern Ohio a rose would last about 5 years. They were talking mainly about hybrid tea type plants. I soon found out that they recommended severe pruning and heavy spraying. I also found out that almost all, if not all, roses then were virused. But that virused roses were not a big deal.

I have documented that in cool climates many virused roses are a big deal and have attempted to explain that those in hot climates should not be attempting to extrapolate their experience to rose virus afflicated rose growers in northern climates.

I also used to try to explain that if someone insists on spraying they probably will have disease prone plants as the plants cannot benefit from the beneficials that exist naturally in healthy soils but are killed by fungicides. I documented that it typically took about 5 non spray years for plants to reach an equilibrium with their natural surroundings.

As an example, I found that Illusion did not get blackspot. I posted that on this forum. I received feedback that people tried Illusion but in about 5 years it was as blackspot prone as their other roses. A common explanation was that Illusion must of met a new strain of blackspot that it was not able to fight. My thinking was/is that you cannot grow healthy roses is a chemical cess-pool. A common question I would ask a sprayer who felt that he/she had healthy soil because thay do observe earthworms in their rose beds was whether they observe the mycorrhizal fungi in their rose garden. I feel that this would be a much better test.

You may find the following thread of historical interest.

Within the topic of this thread, I suggest that in general you cannot separate the concept that a particular rose is blackspot resistant from the concept that roses grown in healthy soil are better able to resist blackspot than the same rose grown under poor growing conditions.

Here is a link that might be useful: earlier blackspot thread


clipped on: 01.14.2015 at 11:36 am    last updated on: 01.14.2015 at 11:36 am

RE: The Black Spot Resistance Hoax (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: BCroselover on 09.10.2014 at 01:11 am in Roses Forum

I haven't ever understood the term "resistant" to mean that a rose (or a person) never gets a disease. Rather I believe it means that one gets a disease less often, or less severely, than others. And for me, too, some of my roses get bs more often or more extensively than others. And it does vary according to area. In British Columbia the shoulder periods of the growing season can be cold, and makes for a narrow time slot for bs, but it does makes its appearance in mid summer, some seasons worse than others. Watering from the bottom without spray does reduce bs. I do use the Cornell formula and find it works very well. I do avoid roses known to be very susceptible, and favour purchases of "disease resistant" ones. For instance, my New Dawn gets little if any blackspot. My Barkarole (Taboo) hybrid tea is often perfectly clear of bs when other roses are getting it. Souvenir Docteur Jaimain (bless its blossoming heart) invariably needs Cornell formula. Buff Beauty is not at all susceptible to bs, but can get mildew though it hasn't for some years now. Morden's Sunrise is quite susceptible and I'm thinking of giving it away.


clipped on: 01.14.2015 at 10:42 am    last updated on: 01.14.2015 at 10:42 am

RE: The Black Spot Resistance Hoax (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: michaelg on 09.09.2014 at 04:32 pm in Roses Forum

Some roses are susceptible anywhere in the eastern half of the US and in the PNW, because they are vulnerable to many or most races of BS. This would include virtually all older hybrid teas and floribundas. Other roses are resistant to most races, but highly susceptible to one or more. Apparently some races are limited in their geographic range. Others may be present in your area, but absent from some gardens there because they haven't been introduced. I had the experience of working in a public garden and then finding that some roses previously resistant in my own garden had become susceptible. Very likely I brought a new race of BS home on my gloves. We could also be introducing new races to the garden when we buy plants. This is less likely to happen with plants grown in California and Arizona. Young plants are often clean for a season but succumb later because the gardener carried spores of the offending BS race from plant to plant. BS spores are not very mobile when left to their own devices.

After reading comments here for many years, I conclude that the areas with the heaviest blackspot pressure and/or most virulent races are the Mid-Atlantic from NY down to DC and here in Appalachia. Pressure is less in places with very hot summers and less frequent rain. One peculiarity is that in my area we have BS that can defoliate the tea and china roses that are mostly resistant in the deep South.

When I mention BS resistance for a variety, I try to remember to say "for me" or "in some gardens."


clipped on: 01.14.2015 at 10:41 am    last updated on: 01.14.2015 at 10:42 am

Digger Dee and others: Vole Update Please

posted by: mayalena on 10.07.2005 at 11:33 pm in New England Gardening Forum

Hi all.

I am definitely fighting voles now. I've caught (snap-trapped) 2, which I feel so sad about. I'm considering stopping...but I am also considering the trees and shrubs I might lose this winter, not to mention the sedums and cotoneaster they've been munching on so far.

Digger Dee: Where are you in your fight? What's working for you?

I noticed DtD (Hi Nan) mentioned a Gardens Alive product that is supposedly effective against voles. They currently only list a product that is designed for moles and other rodents (prob includes voles?). Anyone have any experience with this item?

I've got lots of bare soil spots now from moving and planting, but I am afraid to mulch, as people say it encourages free movement by voles. I may put some shredded leaves down after the ground freezes, but even that might not be smart. I worry that my new plants need a bit of protection....

Any advice?



clipped on: 01.13.2015 at 10:57 am    last updated on: 01.13.2015 at 10:57 am

RE: Tidy Disease Resistant Climbers That Bloom Throughout the Sea (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: meredith_e on 04.26.2012 at 05:05 am in Roses Forum

The Kordes rose Amaretto! I have a ton of climbers, and Amaretto is truly impressive on disease-resistance, rebloom, and bloom form and color(s).

It has it all except for scent! It has kind of a medium myrrh-like scent, which smells fresh but not like my favorite rose scents :) Sometimes it smells more like a flower, lol. Certainly don't let that stop anyone from trying this one. Wow! (It's blooming heavily now and I'm smitten).


clipped on: 01.11.2015 at 06:03 pm    last updated on: 01.11.2015 at 06:04 pm

RE: Tidy Disease Resistant Climbers That Bloom Throughout the Sea (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: rainbow_2007 on 04.25.2012 at 03:36 pm in Roses Forum

Colette (Meidilland) Apricot color cup-shaped rose is what you describe.



clipped on: 01.11.2015 at 06:02 pm    last updated on: 01.11.2015 at 06:02 pm

RE: Please show me your small bedroom closets (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: vasue on 01.06.2015 at 06:50 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

You might consider the attachable or cascading hangers. Began using the Homz brand of these years ago from Target. Several manufacturers now make them, along with loop shapes alone for attaching hangers you have. They are flatter than the regular plastic hangers so take up half the rod space of those. They hook to each other vertically without crushing the fabric. Bed Bath & Beyond carries this type in 10 packs for $4, an average price. Ignore the prices at Amazon (too high in my book) but read the reviews, including one from another 1920's homeowner. Although we have a large walk-in closet now, still appreciate the degree of organization they offer, such as 5 summer-weight long sleeve shirts hanging in a line together with sleeves exposed so I can choose one easily, along with the hanging space they free up. My DH finally decided to try them & was surprised it's much easier now to locate what he's after. I put shirts right out of the dryer on these hangers & find they don't wrinkle hanging in the closet. There are also children's sized hangers like this useful for lingerie, as well as skirt hangers. Hang purses from them, too, stacking the hangers & enclosing the whole thing in a clear zippered dress bag.

Shoes not worn daily go with silica packets in individual clear plastic shoe boxes labeled with ID that stack neatly, boots in larger boxes of double width & same height, feet at opposite ends & shanks along the outsides forming two interlocking L's. Two of the shoe boxes fit atop one of the boot boxes & it's easy to restack them for the season. They fit on a top shelf or floor & keep footwear clean & easily retrievable. Out of season sweaters are stacked into wider versions of the boot boxes, with arms folded across the front & the bottom folded to the neck in front. Keeps them from creasing & several fit in each box. Out of season pants & trousers go into the same size box, folded so the legs of one interlap the next pair, keeping them from wrinkling.

After measuring my pants from waist to hem, found a dresser with drawers long enough to fit them without folding. Pants & sweaters are swapped out from dresser drawers to boxes each season. Inexpensive pretty hatboxes hold odds & ends, stacked or on shelves.

Can you tell I've lived in homes with no or skimpy closets over the years? Some of those closets were 6" deep with single doors & hooks screwed to the wall or ceiing. Resorted to flat-top wooden trunks with & without legs that could be stacked to conserve floor space. Still have a 3-stack of those in the front room here, with others doing duty as end tables, coffee tables, bedtables, bedroom trunks & window seats in this modern home with plenty of large closets. Craft stores & places like Tuesday Morning & Marshall's carry inexpensive decorative cardboard & wooden nesting boxes in a variety of patterns & configurations, including book boxes that stack or sit upright. These hold desk papers, folders, magazines & catalogs, gloves, hats & scarves in the coat closet, even my brush in the powder room with a pedestal sink & no vanity. So fond of trunks & boxes, even the matching end tables flanking the LR sofa are hinged trunks on legs holding a stash of board games close at hand & out of sight...

Here is a link that might be useful: Attachable hangers example

This post was edited by vasue on Tue, Jan 6, 15 at 18:58


clipped on: 01.06.2015 at 07:03 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2015 at 07:03 pm

'Isabella Skinner' making good progress on the tripod. (lg pics)

posted by: brother_cadfael on 06.02.2010 at 11:07 pm in Antique Roses Forum








Thanks for looking,


clipped on: 01.06.2015 at 01:45 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2015 at 01:45 pm

RE: roseland nursery (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: mgleason56 on 04.02.2008 at 10:35 am in Roses Forum

She is out here lots, so maybe she'll respond. I asked her about the website last week on this forum, but have not heard back.


clipped on: 01.06.2015 at 12:07 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2015 at 12:08 pm

RE: Kordes rose performance (Follow-Up #44)

posted by: donaldvancouver on 09.30.2013 at 09:05 pm in Roses Forum

A few more Kordes well worth considering: Garden Delight, Beverly, Summer Sun, Winter Sun.

All are vigorous and healthy in our fungal paradise. Beverly has knock-you-over fragrance. Garden Delight is outrageously colourful and probably a little difficult to place in the garden as a result.


clipped on: 01.06.2015 at 11:50 am    last updated on: 01.06.2015 at 11:50 am

RE: Kordes rose performance (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: michaelg on 07.15.2012 at 04:18 pm in Roses Forum

'Mother of Pearl' is from Meilland, not Kordes, but it has been outstanding for me--disease resistant plant so far, HT-style flowers in an unearthly shade of peachy pink, fragrant to me but apparently not to everyone.

Thanks to Duck for valuable info about Cinderella.


clipped on: 08.27.2014 at 09:17 am    last updated on: 01.06.2015 at 10:00 am

RE: Need Climber: Climbing La France or Viking Queen? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: joebar on 07.21.2007 at 12:54 am in Antique Roses Forum

i am glad you chose VQ. i have had one for three years . it is grown on its own roots and is bulletproof against virtually anything. Its parents are New Dawn and L.E. Longley. it takes a few years too establish but builds momentum with every year. it is a beauty- virtually the perfect rose. too bad it is very hard to come by, as it is not commonly grown. it seems to have the blooming characteristics of a floribunda with the largest bloom in the centre of each splay. 45 petals per flower and quite black spot ever and is very forgiving against severe pruning. etc. be patient and she will reward you. mine is the showcase of my 25 roses. nice enough to be in a magazine.


clipped on: 01.05.2015 at 07:00 pm    last updated on: 01.05.2015 at 07:00 pm

RE: How can I gain control of those rose bush? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: vasue on 01.05.2015 at 05:50 pm in Roses Forum

Looks like honeysuckle (Lonicera) branches in the second photo. In your first photo, I'm seeing rose branches with leaves near the roof of the bay windows as well as rose branches without leaves near the top of the nearest post that holds the trellis, some of which can been seen near the top of that post in the second photo. Leafless rose branches spotted near the curve of the gutter downspout & possibly extending above the roof line. The honeysuckle has oblong pairs of leaves at intervals along the stems. The rose has the twiggier, more jagged stems. Hard to see the base of the trellis from your shot, but best guess is the rose is near the center & the honeysuckle planted by the driveway end of the trellis. You can trace a branch of each down to the base to determine which is which. Photos of the base of the plants & close-ups of the rose & (possibly) honeysuckle stems would help with identification of each. When did the rose bloom last year, did it have fragrance, how large were the flowers & were they in clusters? Anything else you remember about what grows on your trellis?

Close-ups & any details of blooming you recall will help with ID's. Once you have an idea of who you have there, an informed way forward will be easier to find.

This post was edited by vasue on Mon, Jan 5, 15 at 17:59


clipped on: 01.05.2015 at 06:05 pm    last updated on: 01.05.2015 at 06:05 pm

"Clouds of Glory" tea rose

posted by: Rosaline88 on 08.07.2014 at 10:56 am in Roses Forum

I am planning on buying this rose as soon as it becomes available. J &P is sold out. I was wondering if anyone here has one, and how it is doing.What does it smell like? How does it do in cool weather?


clipped on: 01.04.2015 at 11:00 am    last updated on: 01.04.2015 at 11:00 am

RE: Kordes rose performance (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: lizalily on 07.15.2012 at 11:59 pm in Roses Forum

I plannted Amadeus from Palatine this year and already it is AMAZING! It has clmbed to the top rung of my trellis, about 6' but the bottom 1/3 is a solid mass of flaming red petals that never seem to get old and faded. The leaves are really healthy shiny and green. I lost Sisters Fairytale in a winter freeze which surprised me. Lions Fairytale is about 5'tall and 6' across, shiny green leaves and pretty cream white flowers with an almost mocha tone down in their it "Tawny". IT has no fragrance but from a distance it does a great job of keeping the garden in bloom!

Pompenella is NOT happy with our dampness. The outer petals turn brownish and fail to open. I keep hoping when we have a number of sunny days that I will finally get some pretty flowers but even when the petals are peeled off the outside the color looks a bit brownish and worn to me. This may be the last year for mine. The leaves are lovely and healthy looking however. I bought Black Forest this year and am loving the bright pure red little roses on sign of disease there!

Nearly all of my most beautiful roses are Kordes roses. You could pick them out in my garden by their beautiful foliage and lasting flowers. My most spectacular one has to be South Africa. I have loved every flower it has produced and there are many since I bought it 2 winters ago. But give it leaps out of the ground in spring, and grows to Grandiflora size faster then any other, and covered with Shiny green, healthy leaves. They are followed by deep orange buds. Now in July the roses are golden orange, but I loved them when they were deep orange at the beginning too!
I do love Brothers Grimm Fairytale rose too...Bright orange buds backed by soft yellow, but as the blooms age they turn to hot pink and with soft yellow back. ITs always a show unto itself, and has a lovely scent that reminds me of violets. I like it as a cutting rose with its bright colors. I am pretty much sticking with Kordes roses as my main ones in my front garden now...they just do so much better for me and the grafted ones from Palatine LOVE my acid soil!


clipped on: 06.06.2014 at 12:11 pm    last updated on: 01.03.2015 at 03:06 pm

Space saving convertible furniture

posted by: AnnieDeighnaugh on 01.02.2015 at 04:28 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I just love this stuff and marvel at the cleverness to get multi functions out of a single piece. The 2 bunk beds in 12" deep unit with ladder is really something. And the design so it really looks like what it is when it's hiding the 2nd function is incredible. Love it.

Here is a link that might be useful: convertible furniture


clipped on: 01.02.2015 at 07:52 pm    last updated on: 01.02.2015 at 08:07 pm

RE: What to do with this wall? (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: vasue on 01.02.2015 at 03:29 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Looks very nice & cozy, Dody - well done! An idea for hiding the cable & other wires is linked below. A flexible plastic tube that's slit all along the side so you can lay your cables inside, including the tool that holds it open while you do so. Keeps the cords out of the way & from collecting dust. Can be cut with scissors into smaller lengths if you have cords running in different directions from where they plug in. The white cover lays along the floor by the baseboard. More expensive kits include flat link-ups that run around corners.

Here is a link that might be useful: Cord cover


clipped on: 01.02.2015 at 03:32 pm    last updated on: 01.02.2015 at 03:32 pm

Consistently cane hardy HTs/floris in zone 5

posted by: Nippstress on 01.26.2013 at 02:00 am in Roses Forum

Hi folks

Since I seem to be chiming in about hardiness of roses frequently, I thought it would be useful to start a thread about roses that are consistently cane hardy in zone 5. For me, cane hardy means that the rose canes are healthy without (or above) any protection, and the only spring pruning needed is tip pruning or cosmetic shaping. If it comes back from dying to the ground, I call that root hardy and it's a different category for me. I'll post some separate threads with the longer list of my own rankings of hardiness, but this one is for the shorter list of hybrid teas and floribundas that are hardy without any trouble, in a zone where HT/floris "aren't supposed to survive". Most books assume that all HTs are zone 7, but I've found that quite a few HTs are as hardy as shrubs or rugosas.

Here in Nebraska we have relatively harsher conditions than some zone 5 areas (but not as bad as zone 3/4), since we have yoyo weather between very hot and very cold, and usually dry summers with surprisingly persistent blackspot pressure. If it'll survive here, it's definitely a good try in your zone 5 or warmer, but regions always vary and what kills a rose might not be the cold but disease or other conditions. I'm sure we'll have a lively discussion of roses I recommend that others can't grow or ones that are consistent for you that I've killed multiple times. Still, for what it's worth, here's my list of ones that have cruised through multiple winters with me (and unsurprisingly many but not all of them are Kordes):


HT/Grandifolia Roses cane hardy in zone 5 (w/hybridizer)
(those with an asterisk do this in a zone 4 pocket)
Aloha - Boerner
Barcelona/Francis Dubreuil - Kordes
*Black Lady - Tantau
Blue Girl - Kordes
Centennaire de Lourdes - Delbard
Comtesse de Segur - Delbard
*Die Welt - Kordes
Earth Song - Buck
*Folklore - Kordes
Golden Fairy Tale - Kordes
*Hamburger Deern - Kordes
Henri Matisse - Delbard
Intrepid Red - Coiner
Lagerfeld - Christensen
*Lundy's Lane Yellow - unknown
*Paloma Blanca - Buck
Papageno - McGredy (in zone 6 pocket)
*Pearlie Mae - Buck
* Polarstern - Tantau
Savoy Hotel - Harkness (in zone 6 pocket)
Strike it Rich - Carruth
*Yankee Doodle - Kordes

Floribunda Roses cane hardy in zone 5 (w/hybridizer)
(those with an asterisk do this in a zone 4 pocket)
Black Cherry - Zary
Black Ice - Gandy
*Bolero - Meilland
Bonica - Meilland
Brothers Grimm Fairy Tale - Kordes
Champagne Moment - Kordes
Cherry Parfait - Meilland
Cinco de Mayo - Carruth
Easy Does It - Harkness
*Eutin - Kordes
*First Edition - Delbard
*Floral Fairy Tale - Kordes
Grand Duc Henri - Lens
Gruss an Aachen - Geduldig
*Hannah Gordon/Nichole - Kordes
*Heaven on Earth - Kordes
Heimatmelodie - Tantau
*Hot Cocoa - Carruth
*LavaGlut - Kordes
Pink Emely/Bad Worishofen - Kordes
Pink Gruss an Aachen - Kluis
Pinocchio - Kordes
Pomponella Fairy Tale - Kordes
Pretty Lady - Scrivens
Puerto Rico - Delbard
Rainforest - Moore
Sunsprite/Friesia - Kordes
World's Fair - Kordes


clipped on: 01.01.2015 at 12:23 pm    last updated on: 01.01.2015 at 12:24 pm

RE: roses on a chain link fence? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: Nippstress on 08.18.2014 at 08:35 pm in Roses Forum

Congratulations on that delightful 67' of fencing ready made for roses! It's like a birthday present for rose fiends that keeps on giving! I had a similar reaction when our neighbors put in this lovely 6' black fence at our back yard, and we decided to join it up the sides to fence in our yard for a dog. The dog didn't work out as my kids turned out to be allergic, so SOMEONE (ahem) had to make use of the fence to make it all worthwhile, didn't they?

You have a lot of options for climbers that like zone 5, and you're right to avoid ones that might survive but only just. If a climber dies to the ground each year, it won't bloom, so you want ones that are cane-hardy in zone 5. It might help if you let us know which region you're in, since zone 5 Nebraska (dry heat) is different from east coast zone 5 (lots of humidity and blackspot issues). Also, you'll hear from many of us the importance of training the canes of any climber you grow horizontally along that fence when it's young. That's the way you can make use of almost any size of a climber like Kate says, as long as it has flexible canes.

Depending on how much ground you have in front of your fence area, you can fit in roses relatively close along the fence, but you should start with them at least 4' apart until you get a sense for how they grow.

Anyway, here are some suggestions of climbers I grow that are hardy and reliable in zone 5, by some general categories. I have pictures of most if you're interested, or you can check for LOTS of rose information.


Fast growers and bloomers in 1-2 years:
The Prince's Trust (red)
Nahema (very double pink) and Madame Bovary (medium pink)
Laguna (dark pink)
Dixieland Linda (coral-pink)
Viking Queen (medium pink)

Tough as nails very hardy rebloomers, mostly stiff canes
Quadra, Illusion, Ramblin' Red (all crimson pinkish-red)
Alexander MacKenzie - hot pink (canes more flexible)
John Cabot - hot pink
Polka - one of the hardier apricot climbers (also Papi Delbard is apricot)
Darlow's Enigma (prefers to be a very large bush, single white)

David Austin roses that can climb:
Teasing Georgia (yellow)
The Generous Gardener (buff-cream)
Golden Celebration (yellow)

Reliable good rebloomers in zone 5:
Compassion (medium pink)
Rosarium Uetersen (coral-orange)
Westerland (orange)
Autumn Sunset (yellow)
Collette - (blush apricot very double)
New Dawn (pink, very thorny), also Awakening (light pink sport)
Blossomtime - pink
Annie Laurie McDowell (one of the best thornless climbers, pink, may prefer some protection)
Fields of the Wood (crimson, not as frequent a rebloomer)
Puerta del Sol (cream/yellow)
Lunar Mist - yellow

Old Garden Roses that are tried & true in zone 5
Madame Isaac Periere (hot pink, scent to die for)
Madame Alfred Carriere (white, takes a while to grow)
Reine des Violettes (purplish pink)
Madame Carolyn Testout, climbing (medium pink)
Louise Odier (light pink)
Excellenz von Schubert or Gartendirektor Otto Linne (dark pink small flowers, rambles), can take shade
Cecile Brunner Everblooming (light pink)
Clair Matin (light pink), can take shade
Ghislaine de Feligonde - blush apricot, can take shade
Cornelia - light pink, can take shade

Fun colors, also reliable in zone 5
Orfeo - dark red
Senegal - dark red, also Santana - dark red
Berries 'n' Cream - red/wh stripes
Harlekin or Antique 89 (both white w/pink edges, very hardy)
Eden (fussy and stiff whitish pink in zone 5, but worth it)
Three Weddings - white with pink edges
Velchenblau - once blooming violet - very fun


clipped on: 01.01.2015 at 12:07 pm    last updated on: 01.01.2015 at 12:08 pm

RE: OGRs in my very hot climate (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: roseseek on 10.01.2011 at 01:03 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Spiderlily, I love your statement, "it's all a grand experiment"! We need more experimentation. It leads to discovery and increased knowledge. Thank you!

Roselee, if our climates are similar enough, what I have always done is start bare roots in five gallon cans until they have the root system under them to plant where I want them. For small pots, they go into the appropriate size can and are upsized when needed until they are mature enough to hold their own in the open ground. The warmer soil in the pots and the greater attention they tend to receive while potted stimulate them to mature faster and safer than when fending for themselves out in the open with the potential rabbits, gophers, squirrels, "hose pruning", etc.

You can easily practice "pushing" with the immature plant, too. Pinch off the flower buds as they begin to form to push the plant into faster growth. Unless you're concerned with hard freezes. Fortunately, that isn't something I have to be concerned with here. Kim


clipped on: 12.28.2014 at 11:04 am    last updated on: 12.28.2014 at 11:05 am

RE: OGRs in my very hot climate (Follow-Up #31)

posted by: SpiderLily7 on 10.01.2011 at 10:51 am in Antique Roses Forum

Onederw, re what to do with winter coming on, and being a creature of immediate gratification myself, I'm doing both with my bands--potting them up in 1 or 2-gal pots, then "planting" them in holes at the exact places where I intend the rose to grow permanently, with the rim approximately even with the soil and ringed by straw or compost. I leave them this way for a month or so, then de-pot and plant them permanently in the hole. I followed this practice over spring and our awful scorching-drought summer and believe it kept the root systems cool and hydrated, encouraging root systems to develop faster. I also threw a bit of alfalfa, blood meal, bone meal in the hole before setting in the pot, my reasoning being that the roots would be attracted to those nutrients. I now have between 200 and 300 cultivars I established this way. The only thing you have to be careful of is to monitor whether the soil is friable enough for water to drain off properly at the bottom of the hole--just lift the pot out and check. I plan to put in several dozen more bands this way over fall and winter here, which is prime planting time in south Louisiana anyway--though I will probably leave them in the pots longer. It's all a grand experiment!


clipped on: 12.28.2014 at 11:02 am    last updated on: 12.28.2014 at 11:02 am

RE: OGRs in my very hot climate (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: roselee on 09.27.2011 at 10:36 pm in Antique Roses Forum

The rose that was most heat tolerant in my garden through the Texas record setting triple diget heat (up to 116) this summer is September Morn.

This photo was taken the next day after the flowers had been in full sun and 103 degrees all day ...

Photo of another bloom taken a few days ago ...

The plant was purchased as a band from Rogue Valley Roses this spring and bloomed like this all summer. The blooms did not shrink to be small in size like most of the roses, and the petals did not fry to nothing on the first or second day after opening like the rest of them. On top of all this it is extremely fragrant! Frankly, I am amazed.

Does anyone else grow this rose?


clipped on: 12.28.2014 at 10:48 am    last updated on: 12.28.2014 at 10:48 am

Mirandy (Long)

posted by: MiGreenThumb on 12.25.2014 at 08:53 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

Although I could never be as heartless to say that I have an absolute favourite rose (as many have unique qualities for which they may be adored, cherished, and loved), I must admit that I have a certain fondness of roses in the crimson red family. ESPECIALLY those which are rich, saturated, deep, and age to purple (bluing).
In the approximately fifteen years that I have grown roses of varying types (gradually adding in the antiques that I am finding more preferable in most instances aside from obtaining cut flowers to take to grandmothers, friends, and neighbours), the highly fragrant bluing reds hold a certain specialness in my heart. Varieties I have grown in the past and lost either due to being body bags OR attempting to move some in November here in the North that fall into this category include Mirandy, Chrysler Imperial, Mister Lincoln, Oklahoma, and Papa Meilland.

After an extended hiatus trying to meld with the 'world' (and not really understanding most folk- ha!) I find that returning to the plants that I so love has made me happier and more fulfilled than I have ever been without them.

So; I shall share some images of my containerized Mirandy that will need quite an upsized container Spring 2015!

I'd like to share a little bit of background information I have gathered from text books and internet resources about this particular rose.

Mirandy is a now Classic Hybrid Tea bred by Dr. Walter Lammerts from Charlotte Armstrong (I don't see her much anymore, either) and winner of the 1945 All-America Rose Selection trial.
Mirandy has blooms that are usually heavily scented in most conditions although sometimes I was unable to detect much scent, most obviously of course in cool temperatures. For my nose, the scent is the heavy, damask rose with an infusion of a sweet, lemony citrus note. Cut soon enough and brought inside, the blooms never cease to impress with their fragrance. The form seems to vary- sometimes the classic, high-centred spiral and sometimes more cupped and bull-nosed.
Colour and scent are the traits I treasure most in this rose. I love that the buds open a rich, deep, velvety crimson red that gradually ages to an equally rich and velvety purple unless blooms have been bleached to a bright pink by light and heat.
When left on the plant, I adore that the blooms develop through various stages that remind me of what is said that tea roses do- upright buds maturing and opening; gradually turning to face outward in their prime, and then demurely nodding when fully blown, blowzy, and heavy with petals before shattering.
I am a little sad to see this variety disappearing from commerce, but I suspect it has to do with the nodding blooms, disease resistance, and the bluing red trait.

I disbudded my specimen for most of the summer to encourage more growth. Well, it WORKS! (thanks Kim!)
Nipping buds as soon as I was able to grasp them (usually around the size of a grain of wheat) pushed the subsequent growth in such a rapid manner, that three weeks yielded an entirely different looking and ever bulkier plant. In its current container, it is over 5'8" in full bloom, so it would probably be around 4' in the ground.

I gained no basal shoots from the bud union, but the plant did push about three new main canes from low on the canes already present on the plant at time of acquisition.
As the new shoots developed, I noted that Mirandy seems to support blooms on the upper twiggy structure as the plant developed. Blooms I allowed to develop were removed at the abscission layer, and new growth came from RIGHT at the abscission point or just below in more instances than not.
I am not an exhibitor, but I love seeing the abundance of bloom an untouched plant may support when it has all of its needed foliage and canes for food and nourishment.
My plant stayed clean (no spray) of any disease until the end of August and into September when powdery mildew showed (although my Therese Bugnet mildewed this year from mid-June on).
The PM wasn't so bad, and I attempted to keep the plant well hydrated and washed down in hopes of keeping it at bay. It helped bunches.
No black spot this year on any of my roses, not even Angel Face (also new re-acquisition after a puny body bag one died on me years ago), and I have just NEVER seen any rust here in the humid and generally high-rainfall Great Lakes.

My specimen is grafted, but I do not know upon what. A purchase from Menard's, I hesitated picking up my baby until my third or fourth visit because I was sure no good could come of it (haha) but felt I HAD to rescue it. It was the only one for sale. I am nearly certain it is upon Dr. Huey. Thankfully, I have never had the good Doctor sucker on me.

Please enjoy these images, and feel free of course to share YOUR classic beauties Old or Modern.
Which modern Classics are amongst your faves?


clipped on: 12.27.2014 at 06:50 pm    last updated on: 12.27.2014 at 06:50 pm

Let's talk hybrid musks

posted by: dublinbay on 08.19.2010 at 12:17 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Not sure, but I'm worried my Pink Prosperity may have RRD. While I keep a close eye on it, I'm wondering about other hybrid musks I might plant there instead. I never was overwhelmed with Pink Prosperity, though it was starting to shape up pretty good its 5th year.

So, as alternatives for next spring, what are your favorite hybrid musks?

I'm looking for one that grows maybe 5-6 ft tall and wide, has good bloom/rebloom, and good disease-resistance. I'm open to color, although I think white may be rather low on my list of preferences.

I already have a Buff Beauty, so looking for something else to replace Pink Prosperity.

Pics would be nice along with your recommendations.

Thanks, everyone.



clipped on: 12.27.2014 at 06:43 pm    last updated on: 12.27.2014 at 06:43 pm

Ridiculously Healthy Roses here in zone 4

posted by: celestialrose on 11.27.2008 at 08:44 pm in Roses Forum

I grow well over 350 roses by now and as I add more each year I notice that I am not consistent in keeping up with
my spraying regimen. For most of my short summers here I have little problem with diseases until around August when blackspot becomes an issue. Now that all my roses have gone beddy-bye for the winter I am looking back over the past summers and recalling those roses which stayed 100% clean for me and rarely, if ever, were sprayed. In addition to their blackspot and mildew resistence, they were all vigorous growers and bloomers.

Here, in pictures, are those heroes of my garden. It takes
a great rose to not only stay healthy here, but to also
brave our zone 4 mountain-region winters and rally every
spring. Instead of closeups of individual blooms, I tried to capture whole bushes to show their qualities. These
were all taken in late August to mid-Sept. when most roses
here are looking pitiful.


HEAVEN ON EARTH....surprisingly winter-hardy, I don't bother to give her any special attention and she barely
has tip damage come spring. She pumps out dozens & dozens of IMMENSE apricot blooms and her foliage stays glossy and green all summer. A light tea fragrance. One of my favorites and always an attention-getter.

heaven on earth

PRAIRIE JOY....this rose is under-rated, in my opinion. I don't understand why more people don't grow this rose....maybe they need some enabling? This rose needs no
winter protection and comes back fully each spring. It pumps out loads of pretty pink blooms and never has a speck of disease. And she is full and bushy without pruning.

prairie joy

MORDEN SUNRISE....Where do I start? I love this charmer!
The sunny blooms, the glossy & healthy foliage, its winter-hardiness, and even fat rosehips in the fall.

morden sunrise

QUIETNESS....if only she had fragrance, she would be a perfect rose. Winter-hardy, vigorous, everblooming, disease-free, and perfection of form and color. (sigh)
She is beloved by me. Here she is, after a rainstorm, a little bedraggled but still glorious.


ROSARIUM UETERSEN....this climber has consistently stayed
disease-free for years. The leaves are so thick and glossy they remind me of holly. It does have minor winter
damage but then again, I don't protect it. No fragrance, just huge clusters of long-lasting colorful blooms that light up my rosegarden. I am amazed by the lasting powers of the blooms. This cluster was 2 weeks old!

rosarium uetersen

RHODE ISLAND of the Brownell climbers. Huge, red
blooms adorn a climber with large healthy leaves. Gorgeous
and disease-free for me.

rhode island red

OCTAVIA HILL....why, oh why, is this rose so overlooked?
I very seldom hear of it. But she is amazing. She sends out dozens upon dozens of pale pink, Austin-like blooms in clusters, set among her super-shiny and healthy leaves.
Very robust and disease-free all summer.

octavia hill

THE GENEROUS GARDENER....This Austin doesn't seem to be very popular, maybe because the waterlily-like blooms shatter quickly, or maybe because this rose wants to be a small climber. And that's exactly how I grow it. On an obelisk, she grows to about 6 feet and the leaves are so shiny people have accused me of spraying something on them.
Surprisingly good winter-hardiness unprotected. Not a speck of disease, ever.

the generous gardner

THERESE BUGNET....the queen of my June garden. There is nothing but perfection from this rose. She is one of the hardiest roses on the planet and needs zero protection or coddling. She grows tall, with lovely leaves and scented flowers of pink perfection. Her canes are reddish for winter interest and she even sets hips. An elegant, no-fuss rose that everyone can, and should, grow.

therese bugnet

PRETTY JESSICA....OK, I have enabled many here into getting this beauty, but in case you missed it, you will want this rose! She is drop-dead gorgeous, her fragrance is strong and sweet, her form is compact & bushy, she is
healthy, she braves our winters with minimal dieback, she makes wonderful flower arrangements....she is perfect.

pretty jessica

MYSTERY CLIMBER....the tag said "Pink Queen", a Brownell climber, but I have researched and never found any rose by that name. Brownell did have several pink climbers, some only bearing number identifications. So I don't know the real identity of this lovely climber. What I DO know is that it is amazing. The leaves are so wonderfully healthy and shiny I use both the leaves and the blooms in arrangements. This rose has a very unique fragrance, so demure and sweet, like a fine perfume. Maybe someone can
identify it? Whatever it is, it is a keeper.


MOTHER OF PEARL....OK, the photo is blurry, but you get the idea. Loads and Loads of blooms, no disease. This and Pope John Paul II are my healthiest hybrid teas.


ANOTHER GREAT, HARDY AND HEALTHY ROSE THAT I DIDN'T PHOTOGRAPH, IS CHAMPLAIN. That is one blooming-fool of a rose! Cluster after cluster of bright red blooms, winter-hardiness, and good health. I am ordering another one for spring.



clipped on: 09.30.2014 at 07:45 am    last updated on: 12.27.2014 at 02:33 pm

Agapanthus 'Blue Yonder' in Zone 5

posted by: summersunshine on 09.16.2012 at 10:23 pm in Perennials Forum

I found an Agapanthus 'Blue Yonder' marked down to $1 at the garden center, so I figured why not try to overwinter it?

Anyone else in Zone 5 have any luck overwintering agapanthus? Any advice on how to help it survive?
Any general feedback on 'Blue yonder'? I am surprised that nobody has posted anything positive or negative about this particular variety.


clipped on: 12.27.2014 at 12:38 pm    last updated on: 12.27.2014 at 12:38 pm

RE: Any chance any of these nightstands would work in an mcm home (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: vasue on 12.24.2014 at 10:58 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

The bath cabinets would be fine if you remove the legs (which likely screw on) & sit the cabinet flat on the floor. Many midcentury bathrooms had tall painted cupboards for bathroom towels & supplies, but don't recall any with legs of any kind. Even the pulls & outside hinges look right at home for the time frame. If you have the headroom, go for the taller version for increased storage in an equally narrow footprint.


clipped on: 12.24.2014 at 11:01 pm    last updated on: 12.24.2014 at 11:01 pm

RE: bedroom furniture dispute complete (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: vasue on 12.20.2014 at 03:15 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Congrats on persevering for a full refund!
You might add straight square legs to the bottom of your nightstands to raise them up & more in proportion to the mattress height. The craftsman who made your bed could easily make these to match the leg style & attach them at the underneath corners. The bed legs may be tapered square - hard to see on bed or bench. At any rate, match the leg style & wood. You can find metal legs in that style as well. The link leads to a much more primitive example but illustrates the idea. Your legs would be as tall as needed.

You could have opaque colored glass with finished edges cut to fit the tops of nightstands & dresser at most glass shops, perhaps in sage, pale gold or white milkglass, or clear glass with an underlay of another material that shows through. Might find hardware pulls in glass or metal to coordinate or contrast. Play with personalizing the furniture you have to your taste, since the shapes & wood coordinate so well with your custom bed. Really like your wall color & drapes with the wood tones & pales.

Here is a link that might be useful: Leg example

This post was edited by vasue on Sat, Dec 20, 14 at 15:19


clipped on: 12.20.2014 at 03:21 pm    last updated on: 12.20.2014 at 03:21 pm

RE: Which Paint with this Stone? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: vasue on 12.20.2014 at 12:01 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Ditto joaniepoanie for the fade factor.


clipped on: 12.20.2014 at 12:02 pm    last updated on: 12.20.2014 at 12:02 pm

Tell me about White Cap

posted by: molineux on 11.03.2008 at 03:13 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I've read some positive posts about this beautiful climber. It is supposed to have superior black spot resistance, old garden rose flower form, good repeat and winter hardiness. Sounds just about perfect. But I already have Sombreuil, which is a sentimental favorite as it was one of the last roses I got from Uncommon Roses. The rub is that Sombreuil has some vicious thorns. I'm growing it as a big arching shrub and every time Rob goes by with the lawn mower he gets mauled. The man is fed up with that rose so I'm thinking of replacing it with something a little less vicious. I'm also interested in Climbing Kaiserin August Viktoria.

So what are the thorns like on WHITE CAP? Light, moderate or killer evil.

P.S.: pics of the blooms and plant are extremely welcome.




clipped on: 12.18.2014 at 11:17 am    last updated on: 12.18.2014 at 11:17 am

RE: artificial Christmas tree; Frontgate? Balsam Hill? (Follow-Up #75)

posted by: maire_cate on 09.27.2014 at 12:03 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

kswl - an acquaintance of mine is married to the son of an international builder and they designed their current home with a special double closet in the family room. The closet is recessed into a paneled wall and can accommodate a 12' foot tree. The closet doors have invisible hinges and there is a panel above the closet doors that lifts up. Their Christmas tree is on large casters to allow for easy moving. She also puts up a live tree in the kitchen/sunroom area so that she can enjoy the aroma of real pine.

I think of her every year when I pull the boxes of holiday decorations out of the attic. How wonderful to have a dedicated space to store a fully decorated tree.


clipped on: 12.17.2014 at 01:57 pm    last updated on: 12.17.2014 at 01:57 pm

Does anyone put heat lamps into bathrooms anymore?

posted by: cinnamonsworld on 08.29.2010 at 01:44 pm in Lighting Forum

You know, the eerie red kind that go into the ceiling.

I don't want to do under-floor heating, but I always did like how fast the built-in red heat lamps warmed you up on a cold day.

What modern options are out there?


clipped on: 12.16.2014 at 01:22 pm    last updated on: 12.16.2014 at 01:22 pm

RE: Dining chair suggestion? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: vasue on 12.14.2014 at 04:37 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Option 6: Tight upholster the Parson's chairs. That's the way they were originally designed & slipcovers seldom fit well on them. The shape & finish of their legs is a perfect match to the x-backs, something very hard to get right when mixing chairs. The x-backs are both handsome & comfortable, a winning combination. Put glides on the bottom of the legs to make them easy to shift on the carpet.

Really like the way the mellow wood tones in your dining area play with the flooring, the rug, the paler kitchen behind & the deeper colors in front. Artfully done & very inviting!

This post was edited by vasue on Sun, Dec 14, 14 at 16:40


clipped on: 12.14.2014 at 09:41 pm    last updated on: 12.14.2014 at 09:41 pm

RE: Does this Vanity Have a Modern Farmhouse/Vintage Feel? (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: vasue on 12.14.2014 at 12:57 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

The vanity you chose is very handsome. The turned feet & slim molding give it a softer & more polished look than many of the strictly linear forms while staying casual & informal. Find closed cupboards & drawers easier to maintain than low shelving in baths for those less meticulous among us & the extra out-of-sight storage welcome for nondecorative grooming essentials & cleansers. The only thing I find disproportional compared to older furniture versions of this style is the skimpy size of the knobs, and prefer them with beefier substance more in scale to my eye. They come in a variety of materials & finishes.

Stone tops are practical & classical. Consider marble the formica of the Victorian & Edwardian ages, commonly used with the arrival of indoor plumbing that spurred the trend of rooms devoted to personal hygiene.

Here is a link that might be useful: Farmhouse knobs

This post was edited by vasue on Sun, Dec 14, 14 at 13:08


clipped on: 12.14.2014 at 03:17 pm    last updated on: 12.14.2014 at 03:17 pm

RE: Christmas Quiz. (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: vasue on 12.14.2014 at 10:40 am in Antique Roses Forum

Even in black & white the red & white roses looked sumptuous! The gardeners portrayed still nurtured beauty amid peril & upheaval. Imagine we call all relate to that. Found this tidbit.

Here is a link that might be useful: Mrs. Miniver roses


clipped on: 12.14.2014 at 10:42 am    last updated on: 12.14.2014 at 10:43 am

RE: The Best Of The Brownell Roses? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: celestialrose on 03.15.2009 at 12:17 pm in Roses Forum

Rideau Rose Lad....
I have a large collection of Brownell roses including some of the rarer ones. I wanted to collect them because they seem to be a 'dying breed' and I'm a bit of a rose collector....I have Buck roses, Austins, Kordes, hundreds of old garden roses, floribundas, hybrid teas, shrub roses, species roses, rugosas, miniatures, scotch roses, even 'found' roses from cemeteries. I just love all roses!
Therefore, even though most of my Brownells are no more hardy than my regular hybrid teas, I still enjoy them and will continue to try to obtain more of the hard-to-find ones. (Some people collect stamps; I collect roses!)

It does misrepresent the hardiness of the Brownells (or lack thereof) when they are touted as 'Subzero' Roses...
because they will suffer significant dieback just as regular hybrid teas do in zone 4 or 5. I am in zone 4 and the only ones who have above-average winterhardiness (although still not completely hardy by any means) are Lafter, Nearly Wild, and the climbers Golden Arctic, White Cap, R. I. Red, & Everblooming Pillar #73. I don't grow the Brownells because I mistakenly believe they are totally winter-hardy; I grow them because they are beautiful roses and because I enjoy having a wide collection of all types of roses. If you want to obtain some Brownells and realize that you will have to mound up soil around them each winter just like regular hybrid teas to get them through....then you will enjoy them. But if you want easy-care, no-fuss, zero-winter protection roses, these aren't for you. That being said, mine have always grown back vigorously each spring and delight me with armloads of blooms all summer. We get blackspot here in late summer, and if I don't spray, most of them will get spotty just like my other hybrid teas. The climbers are healthier; I haven't had any blackspot on those that I mentioned.

Just recently I posted a bunch of pictures of them, but in case you missed it, here's some for you to ponder. BTW, I am always pushing my zone boundaries....I grow many, many roses that aren't 'supposed' to grow in zone 4. I like to take chances. If I can grow them here, you should be able to grow them there.....but like I said, they aren't truly winter-hardy so just keep that in mind. But they ARE lovely and I'm glad to have them in my garden.

I hope this helps.....

I don't have pics of all of them, but here's a good start:


























maria stern


nearly wild






v for victory


orange ruffels


Everblooming pillar #73


lily pons


maria stern


clipped on: 12.13.2014 at 06:44 pm    last updated on: 12.13.2014 at 06:44 pm

RE: Interested to hear your input on these roses (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: daisyincrete on 12.12.2014 at 04:39 am in Antique Roses Forum

julianna, I grow Perdita and I think that it is an underrated rose. Mine has been here now for four years and it is getting better each year. It is in full sun, has a lovely perfume and now, flowers almost continuously.

aug2014 042

My Golden Celebration gets less sun than Perdita and flowers less often. When it was in full sun, the edges of the petals burnt on the hottest days. It is healthy and happy now, but flowers a little less.

april 2013 127

My Buff Beauty is kept cut back to about 4' high by 6' wide. It flowers throughout spring and summer and then it throws out lots of long arching flowering shoots in the autumn. I love it, but it does seem to need some extra feeding in my light, sandy loam to produce those autumn blooms.

april-may 2013 073

Blush Noisette is healthy, happy, flowers almost year round and is well behaved. Mine are about 8' by 8'.

may 2013 121

I have to admit that Sombreuil is one of my favourites. Yes it is stiff and difficult to train, but I will forgive any fault when it flowers...which is most of the year. I have it over an arbour, but it wants to be much bigger. I have to trim it back regularly. It's scent is to die for.

april 2014 029

I also have Lady Hillingdon but it is very young still. It is planted in poor soil under an apricot tree. Although young, it is showing good promise.
It is in full shade and I am hoping it will grow up through the tree, to the sunshine. Sorry, I cannot find a photo.

I did have Souvenir de la Malmasion, both the climber and shrub. I gave them both away. It might have been my particular conditions but even after 4 years, the shrub hardly produced any flowers. The climber did flower well, but then instead of dropping the spent blooms, hung onto them so that the whole plant looked as though it was festooned with screwed up brown paper bags.
That may not happen on your soil.
Hope this helps.


clipped on: 12.13.2014 at 01:18 pm    last updated on: 12.13.2014 at 01:18 pm

Has anyone used "Neolith" for countertops (or been tempted to)?

posted by: lori_inthenw on 01.01.2014 at 03:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

I just read about this material in the "trends for 2014" thread. Aloha2009 is considering using it. I found some references to it as the hot new indestructible material, and it looks pretty cool to me as well, just wondering if anyone here has used it yet.

It sounds like its essentially a big slab of porcelain tile, and costs are comparable with quartz, which is what we are currently planning to use. There's a showroom in Seattle where I could see it next time I have a day off that's not a national holiday, I will check it out.

Here is a link that might be useful: Neolith


clipped on: 12.13.2014 at 12:14 pm    last updated on: 12.13.2014 at 12:14 pm

RE: All I Can Say About Neolith is WOW!!! (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: cindallas on 03.19.2014 at 09:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

For the sound dampening that snookums2 mentioned, maybe the Noble SIS would work. It is a Sound Isolation Sheet membrane and it is listed as 3/64th of an inch thick. The link below is a listing of the membranes of the Noble Company and scroll down to the bottom for their SIS and it has product description and installation links.

We used their CIS (crack isolation sheet) on the floor for my master bathroom as a crack protection and insulation under the heated floor mesh under tile for a concrete slab floor. It was thinner than the thinnest Ditre we first considered (and would have been a problem with the small floor tile inset we used) and I did not want any threshold problems. After it was installed, I walked in the room with just that installed, and it was SO much warmer and also, unexpectedly quieter, than the surrounding regular slab.

We also used the Noble TS membrane for the steam shower that was a water and vapour barrier and crack isolation for the slab onyx and limestone tiles we used for shower walls and it worked great for that. If someone is considering the Neolith for a shower, they might look into this or something similar.

Noble had several membranes for different situations of crack isolation, sound dampening, water and/or vapour barrier (and several had multiple qualities) so they might work well for this product in several different applications.

I have not looked up the Neolith installation specs so am unfamiliar with what they require for different uses.

Here is a link that might be useful: Noble membranes including sound isolation


clipped on: 12.13.2014 at 12:01 pm    last updated on: 12.13.2014 at 12:02 pm

Low maintenance shower surround suggestions?

posted by: seekingsun on 08.12.2013 at 10:15 am in Bathrooms Forum

I love the look of a tile shower surround, but do not want to spend my life cleaning grout and fighting mildew! My current tub/shower has a seamless vinyl type surround and I still have to redo the caulk (top of tub seam) every month or so because of mildew. Better air flow will help some of that but I hate all this maintenance! As we are planning our bathroom gut and reno any recommendations or thoughts on a solution that provides less seams and maintenance? I have seen info on the solid surface system and perhaps something like that might work. We will have a 6ft tub so it must be available in that size. Or is tile not as bad as I think it would be?

Thanks so much! There is so much to research and decide so any leads would be very appreciated!


clipped on: 12.13.2014 at 11:28 am    last updated on: 12.13.2014 at 11:28 am

RE: Low maintenance shower surround suggestions? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: kaysd on 08.15.2013 at 02:11 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I just posted about Kerlite on the Kitchens forum, but I swear I am not a salesperson, lol. I don't want to clean grout in the shower either, so we are using large sheets of Kerlite Plus on the 2 side walls. Each of the walls will be done in a single piece of material, so no grout lines! (The back wall is the accent wall using "smaller" (12x24") tiles in a brighter color with epoxy grout.)

Kerlite is a porcelain stoneware tile that is 3mm thick (3.5 mm for the plus version which has a fiberglass backing and is recommended if you need to do cutouts, like for faucets). We paid $200 per 100x300 cm (39-3/8"x118-7/64") slab (about $6.15 sq ft) for the Kerlite Plus in Via Tornabuoni from the Elegance series (one of the more expensive color series they offer). It is a really pretty medium gray that looks like limestone. They have several different different series that have patterns that look like different types of natural stone, wood, concrete or solids. Our color was a special order from Italy that took several weeks, but the local distributor also had some other colors in stock.

Kerlite comes in the following sizes:

• whole slab, 100x300 cm (approx. 39-3/8"x118-7/64");
• slab, 40x100 cm (15-3/4"x39-3/8");
• slab, 100x100 cm (39-3/8"x39-3/8");
• slab, 50x50 cm (19-11/6"x19-11/16");
• border tile, 4.9x100 cm (1-59/64"x39-3/8").

Our shower should be tiled in about 2 weeks, and I am really excited to see how it turns out.

Here is a link that might be useful: Kerlite colors


clipped on: 12.13.2014 at 11:24 am    last updated on: 12.13.2014 at 11:24 am

RE: Corollary question to "commitment". (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: vasue on 12.12.2014 at 01:16 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

There were definitely trends in design & decor over the years, but embracing the latest concept in its entirety was seldom practiced in established households. Color was an essential component & there were accents but not pops. Only recall one childhood friend's home where the living & dining rooms were painted beige & the furniture was pale. The memory stands out because it was atypical in the Midwest & East during the 50's & 60's for social rooms. Interiors were very personal to each family.

By the late 80's seems the number of glossy catalogs & home magazines exploded. Some of the mags seemed glorified catalogs, with the design spreads interwoven with ads for those products & expanded indexes in the back with contacts & prices. Slick merchandising went fast track & became pervasive as the internet expanded. By the late 90's, even CL in his 7 stages approach interchanged accesorizing & merchandising a room. Exposure to what's available resale & new has never been greater in my lifetime. Many threads discuss various aspects of this phenomenon. Yet with such a plethora of choices both past & present, popular decor seems to have become homogenized to a starling degree.


clipped on: 12.12.2014 at 01:18 pm    last updated on: 12.13.2014 at 08:59 am

RE: Cabinet Emergency! (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: HomeChef59 on 12.12.2014 at 07:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here is an affordable option. Get the IKEA cabinet boxes where they fit. They are available immediately.

You can afford to wait for the doors and hopefully for the extra deep boxes. Order fabulous custom doors and drawer fronts from Barker Cabinets or Scherr's Custom Cabinetry. They are custom cabinet makers that produce really nice custom RTA (Ready to Assemble) cabinets. Any size you need. They have all of the dimensions of the IKEA lines and will prepare your doors and drawers and provide hardware to accept them.

They have nice websites. You can get any wood and style you want from them. If you can wait for the extra deep cabinets, you can order them from Barker's or Scherr's. Do some searches here for IKEA cabinets and you will see lots of people do this.

I've been dealing with Leon Scherr all week. I'm ordering an entire kitchen from him. He's a nice guy. Call him on Monday and see where he can help.

If you don't want to follow this route, be prepared to pay big bucks, or accept quality that is substandard. You may have to resign yourself to waiting for your KD to return and sort out the mess.

Take a deep breath, have a large glass of wine and a bubble bath. You will figure this out. Nothing worth having is ever easy.


clipped on: 12.12.2014 at 08:57 pm    last updated on: 12.12.2014 at 08:57 pm

RE: Adding onto existing kitchen cabinets (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: vasue on 12.12.2014 at 06:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

Original white cabinetry here from 1991 when we bought in '98. Like you, we didn't want the trash compactor, though still working. Used it for a recycle bin till deciding we'd prefer a stack of drawers. These cabinets have the manufacturer's name etched inside each drawer. We were able to buy identical cabinets in the same finish in 2002 to fill the gap where the compactor stood. Checking their site just now, they still appear to be making them. If you know the maker of your cabinets, start with them. The new cabinet's white finish was slightly brighter than those that aged in place, but within a few months the difference evened out on its own & became imperceptible.


clipped on: 12.12.2014 at 06:11 pm    last updated on: 12.12.2014 at 06:11 pm

RE: Roses that look good together (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: AquaEyes on 12.10.2014 at 12:08 pm in Roses Forum

Ingrid, I'd generally agree with you, with one caveat -- cool and warm can mix well if one is at the dark end of the spectrum and the other at the pale end. So pale yellow will go great with dark purple, but orange is too dark and they look rather harsh (to my eyes). On the other hand, orange will go nicely with lavender. So when I was putting things in the ground, I went by just pale vs dark. 'Jude the Obscure' looks rather nice next to 'Monsieur Boncenne'. And while this pic is not the best, it shows how the rose 'Yellow Sweetheart, Cl' looks next to clematis 'Niobe'.

 photo 10364183_10152147187762285_1503707576980455276_n.jpg




clipped on: 12.11.2014 at 08:27 pm    last updated on: 12.11.2014 at 08:28 pm

RE: To daisyincrete pls help with perennials (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: daisyincrete on 02.02.2014 at 02:02 am in Antique Roses Forum

Trish, the reason there is no soil to be seen, is because I want more plants than I have room for. So the poor things are squeezed and shoe horned in.

Nik, I have just been out wandering around the garden and realised there are a few plants I forgot to tell you about.
Geranium sanguineum. This is a small plant in deep summer shade, where it is very happy. I am about to split it and try some in a sunny area. I will see how it likes it there.
Hellebores. Mine are still quite young, but seem happy.
Hemerocallis. These too are new to my garden, but are storming away.
Verbena rigida. These weaves it's way around other plants, popping up here and there. It is not a nuisance, but if it should pop up where you don't want it, it is easy to pull out. In fact most of the verbena clan are stalwarts in my garden, including some of the verbena x hybrida. Which are of course, available locally.


clipped on: 12.11.2014 at 12:19 pm    last updated on: 12.11.2014 at 12:19 pm

RE: To daisyincrete pls help with perennials (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: daisyincrete on 01.31.2014 at 09:39 am in Antique Roses Forum

Cheers Nik. Hope it goes well.
Thank-you Cynthia. Here are a few more photos. Just general views of the garden.

march 2013 013


july 2013 040

may 2013 030 - Copy

may 2013 003 - Copy

Thanks Prairiemoon2. My husband built the pond, arbours and steps in 2009 and I started planting in 2010.
Campanula, Thanks, but I am having to replant some areas, thanks to the attentions of the dreaded mealy bug? Also, it is becoming more of a mish-mash, as I am very bad at removing self seeded plants. So it is going to become messier!
Thank-you for your comments redwolfdoc.


clipped on: 12.11.2014 at 12:17 pm    last updated on: 12.11.2014 at 12:18 pm

RE: To daisyincrete pls help with perennials (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: daisyincrete on 01.28.2014 at 10:38 am in Antique Roses Forum

Hi Nik, my garden is a bit of a mishmash, with not just roses and perennials, but with bulbs and tubers, grasses, climbers, shrubs and annuals as well.
Because it is so tiny and I am so greedy, I tend to layer things. Like bulbs underneath low growing perennials and shrubs and climbers over them.
Here in the Mediterranean, the range of perennials that are happy, is a lot less than in a more temperate climate.
Those that I have found to be happy so far, (I am still experimenting) are plants like Aster x frikartii Monch.

sept 2013 033

This plant is brilliant. It starts flowering in May and continues right into the winter. In fact, mine still had a few flowers on it, when I finally cut it back last week.
Here it is with rose Buff Beauty.

 photo 005-1.jpg

Agastache Apricot Twist. This is not very long lived, but is easy from cuttings.

 photo 042-4.jpg

Alstromerias. All of those I have tried have been happy and long flowering.

may 2013 097

 photo 067-2.jpg

 photo 072-3.jpg

Nepeta Walkers Low, seen above with the alstromeria.
This also flowers all the way from April, until I cut it back in winter.

All artemisias. This one is Powis Castle.

may 2013 119

All limoniums.


All sedums.

 photo 018-3.jpg

 photo 048-3.jpg

Erigeron karvinskianus (seen here on the left) seeds around a lot, but is not difficult to pull out.

may 2013 115

The same goes for Lychnis coronaria. Seeds well, but is easy to remove.

 photo 083-3.jpg

Rehmannia elata (behind the lychnis above) is also easy in full sun or shade.

may 2013 053

Foxgloves are biennial. Or at least Digitalis purpurea is.
I have sown some seeds of some perennial foxgloves this winter, but they are not up yet.

 photo 113-1.jpg

Pinks are short lived, but root from cuttings.

april-may 2013 020

Galliardias and Ganzanias also seem to be short lived, but flower for ages.

 photo 049.jpg

 photo sandy13086.jpg

But Perovskia atriplicifolia goes on and on for years...and seems to flower for ever.


Anemone hupehensis doesn't start flowering until autumn.
Mine are in deep, summer shade under the apricot tree, but the colours seem to glow in the shade.

 photo 018-11.jpg

Erysimum Bowles Mauve loves the sun.

may 2013 121

Dahlias can get powdery mildew. Not every year, just sometimes.

 photo 046-3.jpg

and of course the salvia family, of which there are masses.
I love them all, even the humble purple sage here...

 photo 093-2.jpg

... and I cannot imagine the garden without Verbena bonariensis, seen here with Nicotiana sylvestris. (Both from seed)

 photo 109-1.jpg

...and in a mixed border.

may 2013 145

I have given the links to the two suppliers in England that I have used the most, on the perennials forum,
If you look in my thread, titled, "new plants", you will find the links.
Peter Beales also does a smaller range of perennials.

I think, if you have any questions, we had better continue this on the perennials forum, before we get our knuckles rapped!
Hope this helps.


clipped on: 12.11.2014 at 12:16 pm    last updated on: 12.11.2014 at 12:16 pm

RE: Where has commitment like this gone? (Follow-Up #127)

posted by: palimpsest on 12.08.2014 at 11:53 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

This is the tile in one of my bathrooms. It probably corresponds to Cerulean Blue: I love it, and since we only generally use white bathtowels and mats since they get washed often in hot water, it's not a limiting color.

The original of the others were white wall tile with gold glitter, and a black and gold mosaic floor; and a pink on pink powder room.

I could technically reproduce the black and gold (Daltile still makes all these colors), but I would rather reproduce the pink and I can't. It was a soft pink like Kohler's nearly-discontinued-on-practically everything Innocent Blush.


clipped on: 12.09.2014 at 11:47 pm    last updated on: 12.09.2014 at 11:48 pm

RE: White or sand finished concrete for patio/walkways? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: vasue on 12.09.2014 at 04:20 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Sand. Agree white house with white concrete is Too Much White. Mismatched shades of white from each pour makes the concept even worse. The glare factor from white on the ground in a sunny climate, let alone next to water & glass which will intensify it, gives me a headache just imagining it! Sand will anchor your home to the landscape in a pleasant way & coordinate with the stonework. Nice house!


clipped on: 12.09.2014 at 04:22 pm    last updated on: 12.09.2014 at 04:22 pm

RE: List of top quality Americna furniture manufacturers? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: kellienoelle on 09.06.2013 at 08:30 pm in Furniture Forum

I am in the same boat as you, and am talking with an old gardenweb member (Duane Collie) on his furniture forum. He and his forum are a wealth of info about leather furniture. The store (mentioned earlier in this thread) is the Keeping Room and there is a furniture forum there. You can order directly from him if you desire.

Here is a link that might be useful: Funiture Forumm


clipped on: 12.05.2014 at 05:26 pm    last updated on: 12.05.2014 at 05:26 pm

RE: Tell me about Chinatown (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: vasue on 12.04.2014 at 02:11 pm in Roses Forum

Just looking at grandiflora Heart of Gold/Heart O' Gold & thought of you. If what you really want is Gold Medal with fragrance, this may be your rose. Broadway x Gold Medal

Here is a link that might be useful: Heart O' Gold

This post was edited by vasue on Thu, Dec 4, 14 at 14:15


clipped on: 12.04.2014 at 02:17 pm    last updated on: 12.04.2014 at 02:17 pm

RE: Desparately need an exellent grout sealer (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: on 06.10.2011 at 05:31 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Color sealing grout with a grout stain like This Old Grout's Color Sealer will not only restore the grout back to a uniform appearance, it will stain proof the grout...way different level of protection than clear sealers like 511.

Clear sealers are designed to provide a small window of opportunity to pick up a spill before it soaks in. Color sealer creates a permanent layer of protection that prevents the grout from absorbing anything.

We match every grout manufacturers color and you can change the grout from any color to any color. On octagon shaped dot tile, the application is a little different than on larger tiles so if you decide to give it a go, let me know and I'll share a quick video showing you how..

Thanks to those past customers that have posted here about our product!

Ken Sherman
This Old Grout

Here is a link that might be useful: This Old Grout's Color Seal Here


clipped on: 12.04.2014 at 11:14 am    last updated on: 12.04.2014 at 11:14 am

Master Bath Decisions

posted by: HappyTravels on 11.28.2014 at 02:54 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Hello All,

I finally made an account after reading many posts and I think you guys give awesome advice! My parents are redoing their bathroom and my mom really likes this tub. She is a direct buy member and the tub there costs $1800 (not including shipping and handling). The tub is from Canada but I was wondering if you have seen it elsewhere for cheaper?

The tub would go next to the shower and the bathroom has a window but does not get a lot of light. If you are trying to keep the bathroom light what would you pick for wall tile and paint?

Thanks for your help :) The demo starts the first week of Jan 2015 so they are trying to order everything so it comes on time. The decision making is overwhelming them so I am trying to help.

Here is a link that might be useful: Bath tub


clipped on: 12.04.2014 at 10:20 am    last updated on: 12.04.2014 at 10:20 am

RE: For those with white subway tiled showers (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: lionheart on 12.01.2014 at 09:45 am in Bathrooms Forum

We have white subway tiles in our shower and white grout. The tiles are great - easy to clean, low maintenance. Just make sure you use a smooth grout, not a gritty/sandy one. Smooth, epoxy-based grouts are easier to clean and stay clean longer. The gritty grouts are a pain to clean - they attract everything except men and money. :-)


clipped on: 12.02.2014 at 10:30 pm    last updated on: 12.02.2014 at 10:30 pm

RE: I'm Going Slightly Mad Paint Dilemma! (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: annkh on 12.02.2014 at 12:09 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I just painted my family room BM aventurine (which the paint store lady pronounced "avent urine" so she would spell it correctly in my file. Who thinks up paint names?)

I love the way it makes the browns and tans in my moose print pop.

 photo IMG_0611_zps0db907b1.jpg


clipped on: 12.02.2014 at 09:53 pm    last updated on: 12.02.2014 at 09:53 pm

RE: Is it just me or does everyone look to have a magazine home? (Follow-Up #138)

posted by: athomeinva on 12.02.2014 at 04:50 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

What is being considered magazine worthy here, it seems to vary by poster? I do not equate clutter free houses or very neat and clean houses with being magazine worthy. I also don't think trendy automatically makes for a magazine worthy house. I was thinking design worthy houses that have consistent decor, that works with the style of the house, and not something that you would see in any house on the side of the road. Alison's house is a great example, at least for a magazine like Southern Living or similar (a magazine not based on the top trends or DIY, etc.)

As for cats, I have lived with many and they can sometimes pick up on an owners vibes and sometimes not, just like kids. My current cat does claw almost everything except the new sofa which is velvet. I had read that many cats do not claw velvet and bought a yard to drape on an ottoman that she loved to claw, sure enough she stopped clawing it. She went a bit crazy on the sofa the first day it was here, jumping up on the high arms and acting nutty but after a quick test with her paws did not claw it, she did lick it for a second. So, it seems that the standing fibers feel odd enough on her paw pads to make her not want to claw it.

Almondstriations- For magazine inspiration try The Old House Journal, it is much better than This Old House which used to be one of my favorites but has become way too focused on cheap and trendy.


clipped on: 12.02.2014 at 09:44 pm    last updated on: 12.02.2014 at 09:44 pm

RE: These lights? (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: vasue on 12.02.2014 at 11:31 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

The shades are so transparent, thinking they'll take on the color of the walls, yet not disappear against the paint color when the light is off, as so many dead-on matches can do. That transparency means they'll be more affected by the type of bulbs you use & the color of the glass shade they cover when the light is on.

You might try a mock up with the glass shade topped by this cover shade rigged sitting on an uncapped jar or any other base that would hold it steady. Shine a flashlight through it to see how it looks illuminated. If the glass & cover shades fit in a current lamp, that's even better. You could carefully unwrap the tape to get a true view of one shade cover without the distortion.

Like the shades very much & believe the slight buttery tint will add a warmer ambiance & give the fixture more dimension than white could. Imagine it will be a great addition to your lovely room!


clipped on: 12.02.2014 at 11:34 am    last updated on: 12.02.2014 at 11:34 am

RE: rusted, flaking vintage metal lawn chairs?? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: BDnBAMA on 04.03.2005 at 12:21 am in Garden Accoutrements Forum

Karen, I refinished some a couple of years ago that had 5 layers of paint on them. I tried a paint remover from Lowe's but it would only remove 1 layer at the time, 'so much scraping'. There just had to be another way so I went to an auto parts store, got some of the remover they use to take the paint off cars & it took all the layers off at one time. I only had to scrape it with a putty knife. I then sanded it smooth & used enamel spray paint. The chairs still look great. Betty


clipped on: 05.23.2014 at 09:22 pm    last updated on: 12.01.2014 at 02:41 pm

RE: Has anyone ever wallpapered a ceiling? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: vasue on 11.30.2014 at 04:55 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Never wallpapered a ceiling, but spent days on a scaffold with a steamer plate taking off old paper that was failing in a very large room. Likely easier to install! Around here they rent the motorized lifts on wheels for interior use at the tool rental places on a daily or weekly basis, about $500 a week, that replaces scaffolding. Sort of a mini cherry picker that fits through doors. Maybe in your area, too?

The link below carries beadboard paper in 33' rolls in both prepasted & "paste the wall" versions & mentions the latter as recommended for ceiling application. Pasting the ceiling would be much simpler than trying to deal with wetted paper at such heights. They carry the paste as well. Good prices & reviews, free shipping for purchases over $100.

Didn't know wallpaper came in this kind of Lyncrusta light version. Very nice & great possibilities!

Here is a link that might be useful: Paste the wall beadboard paper

This post was edited by vasue on Sun, Nov 30, 14 at 17:41


clipped on: 11.30.2014 at 06:43 pm    last updated on: 11.30.2014 at 06:43 pm

RE: Anybody still make blinds like this? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: vasue on 11.30.2014 at 12:11 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I remember these! They were considered a tailored, streamlined alternative to substantial pleated drapes at a time when picture windows in rooms (besides LR) became popular and dens/tv rooms were evolving into family rooms. "Bring the outside in" was a new theme of substantially increased exterior glass. Outdoor living with furnished screen rooms & patios needed easy access, and sliding glass doors arrived bigtime. (Mind you, this was also the time when triple track aluminum self-storing window screens & storms were state of the art, replacing wooden storms & screens that were put up & taken down seasonally.) Glass surely opened up the views & gave a sense of spaciousness, but at night all those dark mirrors needed covering for privacy, heating/cooling considerations & simple coziness. Matchstick blinds and bamboo shades traditionally used for screen rooms were an option, as were wooden Venetian blinds with decorative woven tapes. Later, plastic slats became an affordable choice, along with side pull vertical full length slats, both available custom-laminated with fabric for a more traditional drapery effect. Please pardon my stroll down Memory Lane...

Find this wonderful example very handsome & upscale, likely a decorator made-to-order item. Remember some like this in a room with thick wood paneling lined with matching bookcases atop cupboards, used as a study by the man of the house. On the opposite interior wall, its twin covered a recess with a console tv, file cases & shelving for storage. Another in a family room covering a wall of glass doors leading to the garden & again in a bedroom overlooking the ocean.

These were so practical compared to drapes. Easily vacuumed or dusted, flexible to roll up & down easily with the vertical cord threaded through a ring cleat near the floor, operating smoothly with much less weight & effort than thick slat wooden blinds yet hanging straight & not flapping in a breeze. Not surprised that these have endured all these years in great condition having been cared for routinely & well. Expected with quality, built to last items from days past. Current offerings don't hold a candle to the ones you show, though similar new may still be available somewhere at exorbitant cost. Hoping you've found these for sale & will make them yours!


clipped on: 11.30.2014 at 12:56 pm    last updated on: 11.30.2014 at 12:56 pm

RE: Paging Tibbrix (Follow-Up #96)

posted by: vasue on 11.29.2014 at 04:08 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Reading through this for the first time, glad to hear you kept the original red. It has such depth compared to the alternatives above. Makes the room feel very welcoming & special, and is perfect with your furnishings, trim & flooring. Beautiful room!


clipped on: 11.29.2014 at 04:10 pm    last updated on: 11.29.2014 at 04:10 pm

RE: Roofless Interior Patio (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: vasue on 11.27.2014 at 11:29 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

What an enchanting space! The recessed level in the center seems an intentional channel to confine rainwater & drain it away. Don't see how it could be meant to be filled permanently, or it would overflow onto the raised walkway in downpours & possibly penetrate the interior rooms, defeating the purpose. The textured tile is a non-slip feature to provide sure footing. Looks like the structure also provides a sort of chimney effect, allowing heat to rise up & out when the interior doors leading to it are opened in the evening, and cross ventilation when exterior windows are also open. Considering the symmetry of the space, assume there's another set of columns for a total of 4 pairs supporting the arches, not visible in your photo. If you wanted to put plants on the lower level, think you would leave the central area around the fountain clear & place them between the first & last set of columns, minding not to block the drains or obscure the sight lines of the fountain itself and its intersection. Weatherproof oiled low teak chairs or benches in the colonial style could be used in the recess if you feel you must furnish it.

The structure of the room directs traffic around the perimeter, but the recess is only one step up or down, so you certainly could walk across if you wanted. I wouldn't consider filling the lower level with stone to create a level floor. From a practical point of view, stones stay wet longer than your tile set-up, and mold & algae grow in those conditions. If you are determined to have a one-level floor, perhaps rigid metal mesh panels could be fitted on feet to cover the area & be removed in sections for cleaning the tiled area beneath. You could instead create walkways in the same manner to cross between the two sets of end columns, but they would need to be rather wide for safety. Teak could be used in a similar manner for a raised platform floor or walkway, and comes in modular tiles with spaces between the wood for water to pass through & drain away. A raised surface and furniture might increase the splash potential in heavy rain & keep the area more damp on the whole. Seems a shame to mar such a beautiful design to save a few steps...

Can only imagine how refreshing it would be to enter through your front door on a bright day & find oneself in such quiet splendor, drawn to the fountain to splash a hot face or trail fingers in the water for a moment of refreshment, listening to the music of the fountain splash. Lucky fellow!


clipped on: 11.27.2014 at 11:39 pm    last updated on: 11.27.2014 at 11:39 pm

RE: Help with paint colors in our new home please! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: loves2read on 11.20.2014 at 11:46 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

You said you don't have all the lighting in yet--wait to make a color choice until you do--
people have good intentions but it is really impossible to make the right choice over a computer monitor w/o actually seeing the room's colors in natural and artificial lighting...
when you are close to making that choice--get some white tri-fold science boards from Michael's--
paint them two coats with the colors/sheens you are considering and then move them around the room at various times of day and night to see what really WORKS in your room...
just try to ensure the colors you use have the same undertones as the rest of the elements--
don't mix a gray paint with a green undertint of your room has no green--

read Maria Killiam's web page--
great advice on making color choices w/varying types of other colors


clipped on: 11.27.2014 at 07:47 pm    last updated on: 11.27.2014 at 07:47 pm

Closet Systems - Review Yours Please

posted by: SadieV on 09.15.2011 at 09:02 am in Organizing the Home Forum

We're in the midst of a major remodel and decided that now is the time to update our closets. We have 2 reach in closets in the foyers, one reach in linen closet, and our walk in closet in the master bedroom. I've looked online at the various systems -- wire and laminate and I prefer the laminate. I'm concerned about the strength of it though and want to make sure I can put my heavy items on rods and shelves without worry. What brand did you use -- happy, or not so much? Would love your suggestions.


clipped on: 11.27.2014 at 03:49 pm    last updated on: 11.27.2014 at 03:49 pm

RE: Have you ever settled...for a different rose? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: kittymoonbeam on 11.25.2014 at 06:55 pm in Antique Roses Forum

A good rose will come and be the right one. I had an empty place and never was satisfied with any candidates. Then, along came the perfect rose for the spot.

It's hard to go through those kitty surgeries. My kitty lost his toe, then later his leg but he did very well adapting to it. Extractions are painful too. I'm glad your cat is ok now. If your cats' food or treats has MSG type chemicals ( yeast extract, etc. ) switch foods. These MSG impostors encourage rapid tumor growth in mammals. If you don't know which ingredients are MSG impostors, go to Food Babe's website for a listing. As soon as I learned about these and stopped eating them, my migraines stopped. Wish I had known 12 years ago! Chain store pizzas and most soups and snacks are full of that stuff to make them taste good. They use the same thing in pet food to get the pets to eat it.


clipped on: 11.27.2014 at 12:08 pm    last updated on: 11.27.2014 at 12:09 pm

Fragrant yellow roses for cutting

posted by: cupshaped_roses on 05.03.2009 at 11:28 am in Roses Forum

I just got word that I can to get a little extra. small plot of land nearby (about 900 sq feet) this means I will get even more room for growing roses for cutting and growing the rootstocks and roses I propagate by grafting myself!

It may not sound like much - but most roses do not grow very big up here - Only 1/3 third the size of roses in USA zone 6. (Typical Hybrid tea - 2-3 feet tall and 1.5 feet wide - Golden Celebration - 3-4 feet tall and 3 feet wide - Sun Sprite 3 feet tall and 2 feet wide to give you an idea how small the roses are here)

I grow the roses in roses in rows/lines planted 1 feet apart - 4 feet between the rows -since the roses are grown for cutting only ( I sell many white/pink roses to florists already - Eden rose and Austins are the bestsellers! They call to hear what is availble for exclusive wedding bouquets and extraordinary flower decorations and come harvesting themselves - quite a good extra income from a quality niche product, they can't get anywhere else (Try finding fresh cut Fragrant Romanticas, Austins and old Garden roses at your local florist!).

So far I plan on growing:

Golden Celebration
Graham Thomas
Jude The Obscure
The Alchymiste

I am looking for more VERY fragrant yellow (preferably a warm yellow) or yellow/apricot/orange blend roses. Over the years I have not payed much attention to yellow roses, since I did not have room for them - some years ago I smelled a golden yellow Hybrid Tea, that was very fragrant, with a sharp citrus topnote - can't remember the name of course ... any suggestions for good yellows I have ignored so far?


clipped on: 11.27.2014 at 11:28 am    last updated on: 11.27.2014 at 11:28 am

RE: Tell me about Chinatown (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: vasue on 11.26.2014 at 11:05 pm in Roses Forum

Grew Chinatown some 30 years ago as grafted. Recall it fondly as a full tall shrub or short climber with stunning blooms highly fragrant of rose & ripe peaches. Vintage Gardens characterized its fragrance as "intense". Bright golden yellow base with variations of dusky pink ribboning buds & petal edges & creamier yellow tints, unspoiled by rain & mellowing rather than fading as the blooms age. Excellent rapid rebloom with snap deadheading, excellent cut flower with rapid regrowth & bloom, repeating late into the Autumn. Flowers generously studded over the branches, sometimes singly & often in clusters. Hybrid tea shaped buds that unfurl slowly in classic form with blooms that become slightly frilly as they open wide. Healthy & happy in hot & humid VA without spray or treatment. Not having grown Gold Medal, can't compare.

Chinatown is a distinctive personality still widely offered in the UK & Europe some 50+ years after its debut. Seems here in the US the advertising copy is always chasing the newest release. Tried & true classics such as this seem often elbowed out of the catalogs & overlooked. Since Roses Unlimited offers it, assume it grows well on its own roots. Thanks for reminding me of this enchanting rose! I'll be adding this old friend to my garden come Spring. Believe you'll be thoroughly charmed if you do, too.


clipped on: 11.26.2014 at 11:20 pm    last updated on: 11.26.2014 at 11:20 pm

RE: Weak canes on Strike It Rich (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: pat_bamaZ7 on 08.12.2014 at 12:38 pm in Roses Forum

Strike it Rich is a big, tall, vigorous grower here. Mine is around 4 years old. It produces lots of new canes each year. Most of those start out strong now, but it will still have a couple of canes in the spring that are too weak to hold up all its blooms after a strong storm without staking. Those do improve through the growing season, though. As yours matures, I believe it will be a strong, upright blooming machine. Here is mine from last fall towering over other roses nearby:

 photo zzzsir0924f_zpsf609f38e.jpg

 photo zzzsir2014b_zps13bbc8ae.jpg


clipped on: 11.26.2014 at 12:10 pm    last updated on: 11.26.2014 at 12:10 pm

RE: Top 5 David Austin Roses? (Follow-Up #42)

posted by: vasue on 11.24.2014 at 01:02 pm in Roses Forum

Tried a number of Austins over the years, but only 3 remain in this seasonally hot & humid garden under no spray conditions - Golden Celebration, The Endeavour & Abe Darby. Planted in the center of a mixed perennial bed running between the front porch & walkway, Golden Celebration's matured into an excellent happy rose. Impressive abundant bloom early till late without pause, lovely nuanced fragrance & color, graceful presence & great health earn this delight first place. Notable that GC thrives in such different climates as Jeri's & mine.

Second place goes to The Endeavour, an end-of-season whim still sporting an enchanting bloom a few years back. Appreciative of roses that bloom late into the Autumn through frosty nights, took a chance & lucked out. (This rose along with Aloha '49 & Easy Does It were still budding & blooming when the temps dropped to the low 20's repeatedly last week, and their leaves are still fresh & green.) The Endeavour seems rather a dark horse out of the Austin stable, seldom mentioned, originally released in Australia & later the US but not the UK. Heard Weeks selected it but see it's currently on Austin's US website.
The blooms open on the salmon side of coral pink, with tints of amber & apricot that increase as the flower opens wider & becomes overlaid with lavender, unique & exquisite. Tend to be larger here than HMF's average, easily 4-5", though the bush has only grown less than 3' without pruning. Short, thin thorns, sparsely spaced, so good near a walkway where it doesn't snag passersby. Powerful fragrance to my nose, like a fine French perfume, rosey with notes of narcissus & sandalwood & hints of gingery cardamom. Nose deep in a blossom, feel suspended in time. Parentage listed as seedling x seedling, suspect Aloha '49 somewhere in its background. Rarely spots on lower leaves only & when those are removed, new ones grow back cleanly. Appreciates a bit more in the groceries department, blooms often, loves the heat of Summer yet continues to bloom in the cool days & cold nights of Autumn, petals unfazed by frequent rain (though nod when soaked), grows in a graceful leafy bush form.

Abe Darby has yet to display the vigor & sturdy health of GC, so was isolated at a distance downwind of other roses some years back. The breezy position improved his constitution greatly & he only shows sniffles of leaf spot sporadically, sheds a few leaves & keeps on blooming those magnificent scented blossoms. Rather lonely by himself, he'll be getting a twin to keep him company on the other side of his arch come Spring,

Here is a link that might be useful: The Endeavour

This post was edited by vasue on Mon, Nov 24, 14 at 19:20


clipped on: 11.24.2014 at 07:27 pm    last updated on: 11.24.2014 at 07:28 pm

RE: raindrops on roses (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: vasue on 11.24.2014 at 02:22 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Meant to say that's one of my favorite things, too, mauvegirl, and made the connection with your thread's title. Had to tarry a moment longer to listen to the song...

Here is a link that might be useful: My Favorite Things


clipped on: 11.24.2014 at 02:23 pm    last updated on: 11.24.2014 at 02:23 pm

RE: raindrops on roses (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: vasue on 11.24.2014 at 02:13 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Old garden book authors sang the praises of Souvenir du Dr. Jamain so highly I've wanted to try this beautiful rose for years. Lucky girl!

Neptune's Harvest's a winner here, too, great stuff, goes a long way.

Chilly rain let up this morning & it's sunny beautiful now in the mid-70's. Expected 60's tomorrow before the first snow flies that night & next day. Roller coaster change of weather not unusual through to Spring. On my way back out to cherish this gift of a day.


clipped on: 11.24.2014 at 02:14 pm    last updated on: 11.24.2014 at 02:14 pm

RE: Best tasting rose hips (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: Tessiess on 11.22.2014 at 01:44 pm in Antique Roses Forum

My best tasting rose hips for fresh eating are Rosa californica 'First Dawn' and Rosa canina 'Laxa'. The FD hips are small and chewy, about the consistency of dried apricots and also tangy but milder in flavor. The dog rose hips I tried when they were green--ugh, tasted like cardboard. But when ripe they are also chewy and tangy like FD's but around 3 times bigger. Both roses produce hundreds of hips. Their hips are "meatier" than some other roses (meaning not much fuzzy stuff inside). R. canina 'Laxa' is a once bloomer. FD repeats throughout the year. R. spinosissima also has tasty hips. Not quite as good as the other two and smaller than either. The Gift (white polyantha) produces lots of even smaller hips that have fairly good flavor. The small size is a drawback. R. primula produces hundreds of hips each year. Medium size. Blah tasting IMHO. However, wild creatures treat them like candy. R. alabukensis sets a big crop of large hips for a species. Not much flavor. Cassie sets a bazillion hips. Unfortunately they are so teensy I haven't even attempted eating. R. pomifera (the apple rose) is arriving soon. It is raised for its hips in Europe for eating.

Funny thing I was just out walking the dogs with my neighbor, and we were discussing trying various rose hips in tea to see which taste the best. Both Rosa californica 'First Dawn' and R. canina are loaded right now, so they will be the initial volunteers.

The Greenmantle website has a lot of info about using various parts of roses for food, perfume, etc. Scroll down on the link below for recipes and roses used.


Here is a link that might be useful: Rose petals perfume, potpourri + hip recipes


clipped on: 11.23.2014 at 08:25 am    last updated on: 11.23.2014 at 08:25 am

Summer Memories rose

posted by: karenforroses on 07.23.2010 at 12:06 pm in Roses Forum

I bought this rose as a bareroot this spring from Palatine Roses and WOW, has it ever been impressive. It has been in bloom all summer, with beautiful very large pure white "English" type blooms. The shrub is blackspot free, a real plus, as there has been a great deal of blackspot pressure this hot humid summer. Fragrant, beautiful and disease resistant, this Kordes rose is also hardy. I think I'm in love (again!). The roses in this picture are on just one cane - the rest of the shrub is behind the blooming cane. Looks like this shrub rose will be a nice size. According to Palatine it will get 3-4 feet tall, but it also appears to have at least a 3', maybe more, spread.

Summer Memories rose


clipped on: 11.22.2014 at 03:47 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2014 at 03:47 pm

RE: Are Ophelia (& her sports) & Charlotte Armstrong weak own-roo (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: roseseek on 03.03.2014 at 01:50 am in Roses Forum

Yes, bluegirl, the varieties you asked about are not known for their own root vigor. I grew all the Ophelia, Columbia, Peace, Talisman and Charlotte Armstrong mutations own root in my old Newhall garden years ago and that was a very good environment for them, even own root. Very few had anything even remotely resembling "vigor" on their own roots. It took quite a few seasons for any of the Ophelia clan to generate nearly two by two feet, even with copious water, copious horse manure and regular bud pinching. Now, Radiance and her variants, will grow like weeds own root.

If you're serious about wanting to create your own seedlings, honestly, you will be significantly better off "standing on the shoulders" of more recent breeders, using their vastly improved results over museum pieces of the past. There really isn't anything to gain from the older types as far as vigor and health are concerned. Been there, done that, had fun, but all of those efforts resulted in nothing worth keeping long term. Kim


clipped on: 11.21.2014 at 11:28 pm    last updated on: 11.21.2014 at 11:28 pm

New & Improved Calcium for Botrytis Thread

posted by: michaelg on 09.12.2007 at 12:30 pm in Roses Forum

The other thread has enough mistakes and false starts to get Thomas Aquinas all confused, so let's start over.

--There is ample scientific evidence that getting extra calcium into rosebuds reduces botrytis flower blight in cut roses by 2/3 to 4/5 and increases vase life by 1/3. Only greenhouse hybrid teas were studied, but the findings should have some pertinence for gardeners.

--Botrytis causes balling and rotting of flowers, red-spotting and brown rotten spots on petals. It also causes black cankers and dieback of green canes and gray mold on cuttings. One study found that extra calcium as a spray reduced botrytis stem lesions on tomato. Calcium has also been shown to control several other fungal diseases, especially on fruit.

--Calcium strengthens resistance to fungal attack by strengthening cell walls. It slows the aging of flowers and reduces production of ethylene gas. In one study, the high pH of calcium sprays was thought to reduce germination of botrytis as well.

--In various studies, extra calcium (beyond normal nutrition) was successfully applied in three different ways: through vase water solutions, by spraying buds before harvest, and by feeding through the roots. However, in fertigation experiments, little extra calcium reached the flowers when normal levels of potassium and magnesium were in the nutrient solution. This finding suggests that applying calcium to the garden soil wouldn't accomplish the full benefit.

--Calcium is not very mobile in plants and would not be translocated much if any from leaves (which would be a "downward" movement from leaf to stem), so buds and their stems need to be treated directly or from the roots.

--Various calcium salts were effective in the experiments, including calcium sulfate, calcium nitrate, and calcium chloride.

--Calcium sulfate--
I have been experimenting with garden gypsum, which is impure calcium sulfate dihydrate. It is slow to dissolve and will not form a strong solution. However, there is a convenient way to get a solution. Put 1 tb. gypsum in 1 gallon of water (for example, a clean water jug) and let stand for a week at room temperature. This should produce a solution suitable for spraying (10 mM to 25 mM). Pour off the solution, leaving the sediment. It's a good idea to measure the sediment at least once to see how much is dissolving, which will vary according to the purity of the gypsum and the fineness of particles. I recovered 1 tsp of sediment after a week, so 2/3 of the gypsum dissolved. If you get more than 1 tsp sediment, start with 4 tsp/gal next time so that at least 2 tsp dissolve in a week. The pH of my solution, without the spreader, is neutral.

I have sprayed this solution three times on some stems with no mechanical problems or damage to petals or leaves. Once I combined it with sulfur fungicide. A surfactant (spreader) is needed. I used one tsp/gal of insecticidal soap or dish soap. The scientific studies used a non-ionic surfactant, Tween 20 (polysorbate 20).

One could spray the whole garden or just spritz buds and flowers with their stems, especially those intended for cutting or exhibition.

For vase solution, dilute the spray solution with 3 parts water.

We haven't had much botrytis weather since I took this up. I have been comparing recently-sprayed with unsprayed-for-17-days buds of the same susceptible varieties. I wet them one evening before a cool night, 5 days ago. Although there is no severe botrytis on the control group, most flowers have minor symptoms. The recently-sprayed flowers are almost entirely clean. These stems were sprayed 3 times so far at weekly intervals, but there is probably little benefit from the older sprayings. Sprayed flowers seem to last longer as cut flowers.

--Calcium chloride--
This is available as ice melting and dust control products. Agricultural grade calcium chloride would also be sold in farm stores in areas where apples and other fruits are grown. Calcium chloride has more calcium than the other forms. Although it is more phytotoxic, it is commonly used in agriculture because it dissolves easily.

I haven't tried spraying calcium chloride, but I have used an impure form sold as ice melter in vase solutions. It seems to extend vase life.

Vase solution: 1/8 teaspoon/quart. Do not combine with bleach.

Spray: I would try 1 or 1-1/2 tsp/gallon, with a spreader. Solutions of 3-4 tsp/gal are used on apples, but are said to be phytotoxic to apple foliage above 81 F. Calcium chloride is said to be compatible with fungicides normally used on apple.

--Calcium nitrate--
Commonly available as fertilizer, it dissolves readily with a small amount of sediment. A fully soluble or greenhouse grade is also produced, and this could be used if there are any mechanical problems with the fertilizer. I have not experimented with it.

Vase solution: probably 1/4 tsp/quart.

Spray solution: probably 2 tsp/gallon, with spreader, dissolved separately before adding to the tank without the sediment.


clipped on: 11.21.2014 at 06:30 pm    last updated on: 11.21.2014 at 06:30 pm

RE: Do you have a favorite Romantica rose? (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: Micimacko on 07.02.2005 at 09:53 pm in Roses Forum

My absolute Favorites of the Romanticas are

Frederic Mistral (perfumes the whole room, I keep cutting and he keeps blooming - needs quite a bit of water, otherwise it is healthy an big and wide; the more sun and water he gets more blooms he produces

Colette is my healthiest rose of all 150+ (maybe some new Noisettes will compare but they are too new to judge), blooms are like Abe Darby's but last far longer, the older she is the better the repeat) medium size flowers packed with petals, superb fragrance

Johann Strauss porcelain pink with pale yellow base, sometimes fade to apricot, detectable green apple scent I love, in my zone and my garden 9 or 10 flushes per growing season and all flush has minimum 50 + flowers (sometimes over 100); very good cut flower. In my yard it is very healthy (I do spray) but in other zones growers have BS issues with him. Does well for me both in full sun and half day sun


The rest of Romanticas I have:

Rouge Royale - I managed to get my badly grafted rose to grow own root and he does far better now. Smell is intoxicating, as with F. Mistral and Colette, so far I did not find lasting as cut flower. Needs afternoon shade otherwise the petals burn. Must be sprayed regularly against bs but he improved a lot in his second year.

Abbaye De Cluny - would be perfect except in humid climate few buds open, tends to ball a lot, JBs love him as much as FM.

Yves Piaget - I agree with txcat: he looks like peonies, even foliage reminds me to peonies. Much slower to get established as the above-mentioned ones, fragrance is divine but I should cowl to smell it since he is low growing so far. More bs prone than the average Romantica

Eden - maybe I got lucky and got a good clone; in its second year he had been covered with buds in the first flush as right now in the middle of the second flush. Perfectly clean with spraying

Red Eden - new to me, the flower is gorgeous, seems very healthy

Comtesse de Provence - new, have not bloomed a lot yet, very clean

Bolero: still small but promising. I hope the new buds will not get rotten by botrytis

Michelangelo - new to me, still small but growing well, the flowers were very nice but not too many

Leonardo da Vinci - new to me but grows extremely well Austin-like blooms, I think he will be a big plant

Traviata: new to me, still small but looks healthy and promising

Tchaikovsky - new to me, so far looks very healthy, did not bloom a lot yet

Still disappointing: Jean Giono - for me he refuses to bloom a lot or repeat well; the blooms are very nice when there is any


clipped on: 11.20.2014 at 03:53 pm    last updated on: 11.20.2014 at 03:53 pm

RE: Do you have a favorite Romantica rose? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: txkat on 06.26.2005 at 02:12 pm in Roses Forum

I love the romanticas. Yves Piaget looks almost like a peony to me, and smells wonderful. Because his flowers are so large, IMO, his repeat's kind slow.

Frederic Mistral will rock your world. 'Nuf said.
Johann Strauss is one of only two roses we have three of. It's really lovely, but lasts better in a vase than on the bush. This is the same rose heirloom calls Forever Friends.
Peter Mayle is awesome, but he's much more purple than I expected. I like the name Lolita Lempicka better.
Leonardo DiVinci has the most old fashioned rose form of any of the pink romatincas. He's short and grows like a floribunda making him easy to stick in somewhere.
Traviata makes a great cut flower. Lasts forever, nice long stems.
Toulouse la Trec is the best performing fragrant yellow rose in my garden, but the beatles do indeed find him to be a tasty treat. Grr!!

So if I had to pick 1, it would be Johann Strauss, If I had to pick 2, It would be JS and Frederic Mistral. 3 add Toulouse or Traviata.


clipped on: 11.20.2014 at 03:46 pm    last updated on: 11.20.2014 at 03:47 pm

RE: Do you have a favorite Romantica rose? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: Sally_D on 06.26.2005 at 11:48 am in Roses Forum

Very hard to pick a favorite

Eden-Gorgeous but not a good repeater
Colette-Very pretty, smaller blooms. Bush or climber.
Peter Mayle-Beautful, great smell, flowers tend to burn out fast
Rouge Royal-Also beautiful red, great smell
Johanne Stauss-I think the prettiest pick rose with a tint of green, not much smell
Frederick Mistral-Huge, beautiful flower, good smell, great vase life.
Traviata-Huge red flower, Disease resistant but no smell.
Grows straight up and tall. Good pillar
Abbey de Cluny-Beautiful big apricot. tends to ball.
Tchaikovsky-Surprised how much I like this one. Gorgeous big white with yellow flower.
Yve Piaget-Cabbage flowers that smell great. Mine last for a long time. Love this rose.
Comtesse de Provence-Moved this year to part shade. Flower burned out immediately for me in the sun last year.
Romaticas need to be sprayed.


clipped on: 11.20.2014 at 03:44 pm    last updated on: 11.20.2014 at 03:45 pm

RE: Do you have a favorite Romantica rose? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: agility_mom on 06.26.2005 at 11:30 am in Roses Forum

I have several of these but I have only had them ranging from last Fall to this Spring. So far I really like them and plan on getting several more.
I found this list of the Romanticas available.
Andre Le Notre
Auguste Renoir
Leonardo Da Vinci
Pierre de Ronsard (aka Eden)
Yves Piaget
Peter Mayle
Guy de Maupassant
Toulouse Letrec
Abbaye De Cluny
Contesse De Provence
Francois Rabelais
Frederick Mistral
Jean Giono
Johann Strauss
Rouge Royal
Forever Friends

Some of these names don't seem to sound like what I imagine Romantica name should be but that was what was listed.


clipped on: 11.20.2014 at 03:43 pm    last updated on: 11.20.2014 at 03:43 pm

RE: Anyone else have a hard time getting rid of unwanted roses? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: vasue on 11.20.2014 at 11:31 am in Roses Forum

Great option to annex your Dad's backyard! My assumption that you researched before rather than after your initial purchases was influenced by seeing you here asking so many good questions - and way off. Began years ago just like you in an enthusiastic kid-in-the-candy-shop splurge. Regional performance info was hard to come by then & skewed by traditional disease control methods I was unwilling to practice. The local ARS chapter focused on exhibition at the time, rather than my interest in roses as garden plants, so wasn't much help. Still have years of ARS Annuals stashed away along with catalogs & softback editions on rose growing (pack rat!) that offered few clues to whether a particular rose might grow well for me, as well as shelves of volumes stretching into the 1800's in an information quest that cast a wide net. The internet's streamlining of this process (including translating!) allows us to peek into gardens around the world now & become acquainted with the wonderful folks who create & tend them. Compared to the wayback, what a wonder! Especially here, where the rubber meets the road in each individual garden.


clipped on: 11.20.2014 at 11:32 am    last updated on: 11.20.2014 at 11:33 am

RE: So what color is it? Really? (long) (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: buford on 11.15.2014 at 07:03 am in Antique Roses Forum

Also, if you post pictures on Facebook, you can get an html link from there. Simply right click on the picture, click on 'inspect element'. There will be a portion highlighted. Right click on that portion and then click on 'Copy Outer Html'. You can then post that directly into a GW post and the picture will show up. Just make sure that any pictures have the privacy setting at 'Everyone' otherwise just a broken link will show up.

This post was edited by buford on Sat, Nov 15, 14 at 7:38


clipped on: 11.16.2014 at 09:08 pm    last updated on: 11.16.2014 at 09:08 pm

RE: Front door slightly misaligned (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 11.13.2014 at 02:27 pm in Home Repair Forum

A lot of newer entry doors have hinges that adjust for up/down and in/out. They have oddly-placed adjuster screws on the face of the hinge; if you look closely there may be directional arrows telling which way it moves. IIRC the top hinge moves in/out, the bottom hinge is for up/down.


clipped on: 11.16.2014 at 07:35 pm    last updated on: 11.16.2014 at 07:35 pm

RE: Front door slightly misaligned (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: handymac on 11.13.2014 at 10:03 am in Home Repair Forum

If tightening the screws in the hinges does not work---and it should ----buy some 3" or 3&1/2" screws with the same size head. Remove a screw in the top hinge and replace it with the longer screw.

Should fix it.


clipped on: 11.16.2014 at 07:34 pm    last updated on: 11.16.2014 at 07:34 pm

RE: Front door slightly misaligned (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: Trebruchet on 11.13.2014 at 07:04 am in Home Repair Forum


Doors are adjusted at the hinges by inserting shims behind the plates or tightening the screws. I suggest you try the latter. If the screws won't tighten, remove them, drive wood dowels into the screw holes with adhesive, and when it's set up, redrill the holes and tighten the screws.


clipped on: 11.16.2014 at 07:32 pm    last updated on: 11.16.2014 at 07:33 pm

RE: What's a bed, and what's a border? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: vasue on 11.16.2014 at 06:16 pm in Roses Forum

Pulled out Shrub Roses and Climbing Roses ('93) to check on Austin's definitions from the included Glossary.

BUSH. I use this word to describe closely pruned bedding roses, as for example a Hybrid Tea.
BUSHY SHRUB. A rose of dense, rounded growth.
SHRUB. A rose that is normally pruned lightly and allowed to grow in a more natural form, as opposed to a bush which is pruned close to the ground.
SPREADING SHRUB. A shrub on which the branches tend to extend outwards rather than vertically.
UPRIGHT SHRUB. A rose in which the growth tends to be vertical.
ARCHING SHRUB. A shrub in which the long main branches bend down towards the soil, usually in a graceful manner.


clipped on: 11.16.2014 at 06:27 pm    last updated on: 11.16.2014 at 06:27 pm

RE: Liv Tyler/ Comtesse de Provence (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: krista_4 on 04.02.2013 at 02:51 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

It's a great rose, highly recommended.

In my no-spray garden setting it gets blackspot and drops its leaves; however, it does well.

It has an upright habit. It's a sturdy rose, a good bloomer.

The blooms have a more vibrant color than the Austins. It is very fragrant.


clipped on: 11.14.2014 at 07:23 pm    last updated on: 11.14.2014 at 07:24 pm

RE: Is there ANY rose that doesn't get Blackspot? (Follow-Up #44)

posted by: windeaux on 09.03.2007 at 10:10 pm in Roses Forum

Ceterum -- Many thanks for the good info. The Caramella 2001 I've been watching is in a friend's garden & came from Hortico (where it was -- & may still be -- mistakenly listed as a hybrid tea). It was very puny when it arrived, was slow to break dormancy & produced almost no blooms until very recently. Once it started growing, it threw very long, lax cains. New basals, however, look like they're going to be more upright. So far, very healthy foliage with unusual burgundy striations on the new growth. I was unaware of the alternate name of Caramel Fairy Tale & am very glad to know that.

One of my favorite HTs is the original Caramella (1986?), also by Kordes. As far as I know the only North American source for that one is RU. Perhaps Kordes will eventually realize that using the same name over & over & over again is a strategy that's not particularly helpful to their consumers. Have to admit, though, that I probably wouldn't have become interested in Caramella 200l if I weren't so fond of Caramella 1986 -- so perhaps there's method to their madness aferall.


clipped on: 11.14.2014 at 03:28 pm    last updated on: 11.14.2014 at 03:28 pm

RE: Is there ANY rose that doesn't get Blackspot? (Follow-Up #38)

posted by: maryl on 08.23.2007 at 02:50 pm in Roses Forum

From my admitedly somewhat limited experience with OGRs they are not the miracle shrubs that some would have you believe. There are some very good OGR's and some very good modern roses. One does not negate the other. I spray off and on so my list of B.S. resistant modern roses are those that have withstood weeks of not being sprayed during prime B.S. season and had no spots or only minimal spotting. A few that come to mind:
*Lady Mitchell (HT-Harkness-have never seen so much as one spot going on 4th year now)
*Chrysler Imperial (HT-will get some spots in fall if not sprayed at all).
*Aloha (Climber-very resistant clean foliage)
*Secret (HT-can go weeks without spraying and then maybe a few spots)
*Gourmet Popcorn, Magic Carousel-(minis)


clipped on: 11.14.2014 at 03:21 pm    last updated on: 11.14.2014 at 03:21 pm

RE: Is there ANY rose that doesn't get Blackspot? (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: ceterum on 08.17.2007 at 12:37 am in Roses Forum

Common' guys that is an exaggeration.

I have been growing Colette (modern, Romantica series) for 5 or rather 6 years. She never had blackspot and never was sprayed. Same is true of Leonardo da Vinci, an other Romantica, sort of climber with Austin-like octopus growth. Bolero is clean, so is Tchaikovsky (both are from Meilland's Romantica series). I have all for minimum 3 years. So do I grow Papi Delbard (modern, short climber) for 3 years - again no blackspot.

Of the new Kordes intros Floral Fairy Tale has gorgeous, clean foliage and so far Caramella is clean too. Of the potential short climbers Laguna is spotless and if I recall Cinderella is very clean, too. (All came from Palatine Roses and they send huge, healthy superb plants). Chartreuse de Parme (Delbard) is spotless so far as there are 'Crown Princess Margareta (2nd year) and Jubilee Celebration. But these later mentioned roses are new in my garden so I would wait another year till they pass the final test.

YMMV, needless to say, but these above- mentioned roses do extremely well without spraying in a horrid southeastern coastal climate.

Meanwhile several of my OGRs are covered with ugly spots or have an even worse "crud" and even the Noisette Celine Forester has bs or loses leaves if not sprayed. Yes, there are OGRs that are no-spray, like Crepuscule, Jean Desprez, Devoniensis, Arethusa and Pear' d'Or. Clotilde Soupert has no bs but balls a lot while Marie Pavie does get bs here.

So the division is not simply between OGRs and moderns but climate specific OGRs and modern roses.

Just my humble opinion,


clipped on: 11.14.2014 at 03:11 pm    last updated on: 11.14.2014 at 03:11 pm

RE: Is there ANY rose that doesn't get Blackspot? (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: jimmiesgran on 08.15.2007 at 10:01 pm in Roses Forum

Never had any blackspot on Darlow's Enigma or Colette in my no-spray, horribly blackspot-prone Oklahoma garden.


clipped on: 11.14.2014 at 02:49 pm    last updated on: 11.14.2014 at 02:49 pm

RE: Anyone else have a hard time getting rid of unwanted roses? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: vasue on 11.10.2014 at 02:46 pm in Roses Forum

From one pack rat to another - I get it. However, if I swapped out roses after only one growing season, doubt I'd have any successful roses at all. Agree with Ninkasi that your young roses likely need more time to settle in & mature. In my experience, young plants can & do change their bloom & growth habits & disease resistance routinely for the better as they grow older. Youngsters often have an awkward stage they outgrow. Leaves & stems become thicker, more plentiful & productive as the plant takes root & fills in. As this occurs, blooms typically become larger & more lasting & repeat more frequently. Roses picked for their fragrance often give only faint promise of that till they hit their stride, and blossom colors often become richer & more nuanced once a rose is well established. Many roses have outgrown bouts of black spot & fungal issues as their immune systems matured along with the rest. Vouching for this in my current & previous gardens under no-spray conditions in an equally hot & humid climate. Sometimes a plant needs help with a change of placement into more or less sun, further out from a wall, less crowding for better air circulation, mulch removal & fresh replacement to reduce overwintering fungal spores, watering routines or other operator issues. A detective hat comes in handy for these puzzles.

This depends on each variety coming into their own if the potential is there. Assume you chose your roses for that potential, based on photos & reviews of mature plants in similar climates & conditions, but you may not have a chance to see that in your garden if you don't give them time to live up to the praise that influenced your decisions. Lucky Westcoasters who can pick up roses in 15 gallons & more! The rest of us pretty much have to get them to that size ourselves, which takes time. A grafted, potted Golden Celebration didn't do much its first year but produce a few single blooms on droopy stems. The second year it concentrated on growing stems & leaves & gave two pretty but unimpressive flushes with scattered bloom between. The third year, existing canes grew in diameter & threw scads of laterals that arched gracefully & bloomed in magnificent upright clusters continuously from early till late. As the stature of the plant improved, so did the bloom configuration, size, coloration, time from opening to petal fall & perfume punch. If I'd given up on it before then, it couldn't have become such a delight. Planted center stage, it said "look at me!" for those couple of years there wasn't much to see. It had modest breakouts of blackspot it outgrew in its second year. Even grafted, potted Easy Does It, a stellar & prolific rose here, didn't become a bushy powerhouse until deep into its second year. I've grown duds, too (haven't we all?) that mainly suicided. Sometimes I figured it was just that particular example & succeeded with a replacement. Some became giveaways only to thrive in other gardens. Keep in mind there's plenty of untapped growing space in this garden & I tend to plant with mature size in mind rather than closely spaced, along with perennial companions, but that's me. Wasn't always so. In rented homes, grew roses in ever larger pots & still sometimes audition them for the garden that way as well as growing some perpetually in pots placed here & there. With roses, there's always more to tweak & learn about each idividual.

Many of the potted roses available here are trucked in from states where the growing season begins earlier, often in full bud & bloom a few weeks before garden roses here reach that stage. Many of those have done well for me. Local garden centers which buy & pot bareroots sometimes use greenhouses in combination with pushing the plants with heavy growth promoters - forcing out of season. Those plants look great when purchased but often flag as the weather heats up & can disappoint. I've learned which garden centers use this method & don't buy roses from them. Such roses recover with gentle care but can be more troublesome the first year. Perhaps some of your roses fall into this category? If so, you may very well find them with more solid health next year after their Winter rest.

You're aware this late in the year isn't ideal for giving away plants or for planting. Next Spring you'll have gardeners lined up to take them off your hands if you decide that's the way to go. You might even dig & pot this year's roses then & keep them a while to see how they do, on the nothing ventured, nothing gained principle, knowing you can donate or Craigslist them later. In the meantime, you might pick the brains of those here about the varieties you have & their experience with them as they matured under similar conditions. Winter is for pondering what else you might change about their beds or spacing or other variables that could positively influence their health, which is the foundation for other good qualities to shine. And your current roses may go on to happily surprise you in the new year...

This post was edited by vasue on Mon, Nov 10, 14 at 15:38


clipped on: 11.10.2014 at 03:43 pm    last updated on: 11.10.2014 at 04:22 pm

RE: Plum Perfect and Lavender Veranda (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: newroses on 12.06.2013 at 03:05 pm in Roses Forum

Sorry to be late on making a comment on this but just checking the site now.

Lavender Veranda KORfloci67 is a rose you will not find in the Kordes Germany catalog but has been available in N. America for some years. It is part of the Veranda collection which are compact floribunda roses suitable for patio containers and small gardens. Beautiful high-centered bud and lovely color - no scent. Good on disease. it is available in an increasing number of nurseries.

Plum Perfect KORvodacom is a large floribunda with deep plum colored flowers and very dark green foliage. It likes the heat and humidity of the south but is quite cold hardy. Alas it looks like it should have scent but it does not. I think at this time Chamblee might be one of the few nurseries carrying this rose but hopefully there will be wider distribution soon. This rose was never introduced in Europe so there is not another commercial name.

With regard to not finding the parentage on the patent - often the parents are not commercial cultivars, but if you went back a couple of generations there is probably a commercial rose in the lineage. What the US patent office is asking for is parent identification. This is why you see un-named seedling in the patent documents.

My experience is that HMF is not limited to identifying just the roses registered with ARS but do include all the information they come across on various web sites.

The new introduction for 2014 is Savannah KORvioros PPAF which is a really nice rose and if you bought one this fall then you bought one of the first ones available to the public. It is an HT medium pink probably 120 petal flat cup shape. It has mahogany red stems and very dark green leathery foliage. It is exceptional on disease resistance and loves the hot humid climates. What is really special is the fragrance very strong old rose scent. This is the first introduction of this variety and it is not available anywhere else than N. America and is not sold elsewhere under another name. Chamblee roses is the first company to have it in production.

So Greenheart is a producer of liners for wholesale growers. Ball Seed is a distributer of liners to wholesale growers. Newflora is the representative of Kordes roses in N. America. All of the Kordes roses come through quarantine and are introduced into the market by Newflora. Roses cannot be imported into the USA because of quarantine requirements.

I hope this clears up a few questions.


clipped on: 11.10.2014 at 08:30 am    last updated on: 11.10.2014 at 08:31 am

RE: roseland nursery (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: sheerbliss on 04.02.2008 at 05:12 pm in Roses Forum

I'm still in business at the Farmer's Market. I no longer even try to manage the website. It's beyond my ability at this point. My number is 919-906-7673. Dana is completely correct about inventory. It was a rough year for anyone in the green industry in NC. Plus we moved the nursery and our home. This year should see some improvements.



clipped on: 11.08.2014 at 10:37 pm    last updated on: 11.08.2014 at 10:38 pm

RE: short AUSTIN substitutes ??? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: prettypetals on 11.07.2014 at 11:00 pm in Roses Forum

Iris gal I came across Fil Roses while on HMF looking at roses. They have some gorgeous ones and when I saw ships to the United States goofy me jumped. Lol. The ones I ordered are Vichy, Voyage, Maria Theresia, Pastella, Aphrodite, and Charming Piano. I'm wanting lots more but going to see how these do and see what room I have left. Soooooo anxious to get these babies and see how they grow. Judy


clipped on: 11.08.2014 at 10:56 am    last updated on: 11.08.2014 at 04:02 pm

RE: Belinda's dream or Zaide (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: vasue on 11.08.2014 at 03:18 pm in Roses Forum

Two 3-gallon own root Belinda's Dream new this Spring, picked up locally at Lowe's (of all places), did very well in hot & humid central VA with no spray & no black spot, even this late now in the season. One had a touch of mildew that responded to water spray & hasn't recurred. No hard frost yet & they're still budding & blooming. Really liking this rose for its health, generous fragrant bloom & rapid repeat with just snapping blown blooms at the peduncle deadheading. Some of the blooms were self-cleaning, dropping their spent petals, while others were not on the same bush. May have related to how wet from rain the blooms were when they blew. Buds unfurl slowly & open blooms last a good while on the bush - at least a week - even in temps past 90 - without fading or crisping. Two own root gallons from Chamblee's new at the same time held multiple plants, so were grown on together in larger pots before dividing & repotting. They've also done well. Those 2 gallons yielded 5 plants, so a BD hedge may be in my future, too!

Been eyeing Zaide myself, but not convinced it will do well here under no spray conditions. May try one next year to give it the test run. Kordes only rates it 2 out of 4 on black spot resistance - "Blackspot: higher susceptibility, tonic required." Gives it a higher 3 of 4 for mildew.

On an older thread, linked below, Marina gave her 3 Zaide high marks, but didn't mention black spot resistance specifically. She reported they set nice hips, a bonus.

Here is a link that might be useful: Marina's report on Zaide

This post was edited by vasue on Sat, Nov 8, 14 at 15:22


clipped on: 11.08.2014 at 03:26 pm    last updated on: 11.08.2014 at 03:26 pm

'Madam Cornelissen'

posted by: michaelg on 11.06.2014 at 02:24 pm in Antique Roses Forum

In the royal house of Malmaison, Mme C is the queen's eccentric sister. Her petals are notched and ruffled. The broad outer petals sometimes develop unevenly, so that the nest of inner petals is framed by a square or triangular background, rather than a circle. Sometimes she forms a perfect rosette, but nearly every flower is different from the others.

Flowers are large (4') and white with a pink center and a complex perfume. They are fine for cutting if taken in bud after the sepals drop. Buds are susceptible to botrytis petal blight in cool damp weather, but tend to spot rather than ball outright.

The plant is similar to SdlM's, angular and spreading, vigorous without being tall, and very free blooming. She enjoys heat, but also produces outstanding bloom well into the fall. The attractive foliage is resistant to blackspot in some gardens, but said to be susceptible to mildew on the West Coast. Like a typical hybrid tea, it is cane-hardy to around 5 degrees F. But unlike most HTs, Mme C grows well on its own roots.

Not well-suited to the Pacific fog belt or the far north. Otherwise, if you are not familiar with this charming rose, consider giving it a try. Roses Unlimited lists it under the name "Edith de Murat."

Here is a link that might be useful: HMF Mme C.

This post was edited by michaelg on Thu, Nov 6, 14 at 14:52


clipped on: 11.08.2014 at 11:52 am    last updated on: 11.08.2014 at 11:52 am

RE: Golden Celebration or Graham Thomas? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: vasue on 11.06.2014 at 06:33 pm in Roses Forum

Tried a grafted Graham Thomas years ago but he never really settled in the garden & succumbed to a harsh Winter before reaching maturity (before I planted grafts below soil level for insurance). Sorry, don't remember him well, and never tried again with another specimen.

Golden Celebration bought grafted as a 3 gallon & planted out 7-8 years ago has been a delight. Healthy with no spray & no black spot in hot & humid central Virginia, it blooms lavishly from early to late since its second year & bloomed well the first year it concentrated on growing tall. Blooms open in clustered sprays while buds swell & new buds begin at the same time, giving a continuous display. It's corralled within a 2' square copper pipe obelisk & reaches 8' to arch against & spill over the crosspieces. In an ESE location, it receives sun till 3 or 4 in the afternoon without fading or crisping in the heat. I've never pruned it, nor needed to as it's suffered no Winter dieback, and simply snap the blown blooms. It's been a happy rose here with solid sweet perfume of damask & fruit. Highly recommend in similar conditions.


clipped on: 11.06.2014 at 06:35 pm    last updated on: 11.06.2014 at 06:35 pm

RE: Help me plan my yellow and orange rose bed! (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: AquaEyes on 11.02.2014 at 09:45 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Whatever you choose, I want to recommend something to accompany your "yellow and orange rose bed" -- Cynoglossum amabile 'Firmament'. The blooms look like sprays of Forget-MeNot, but a few inches taller. And it blooms all Summer and into Autumn. I loved how a little patch of it framed my rose 'Happy Child' this year -- whenever the rose had a flush, the two set each other off beautifully. Get some seed and sprinkle it lightly around the roses. It self-seeds gently over time.

I'm sure there are other companions you're thinking about, but nothing beats a true-blue against yellow and orange for a nice pop.




clipped on: 11.06.2014 at 10:01 am    last updated on: 11.06.2014 at 10:01 am

need suggestions on non toxic insulation

posted by: LMRinc on 09.04.2014 at 05:38 pm in Building a Home Forum

I want to make a decision on which insulation we should use and I'm very concerned about off gassing from spray foams, but I think those have the most R value?

I just don't want to be polluting our air we breath every day with nasty toxic fumes.

I would love to hear some suggestions, thanks!


clipped on: 11.05.2014 at 01:44 pm    last updated on: 11.05.2014 at 01:44 pm

RE: Own root Floribundas, Grandifloras & Hybrid Teas? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: vasue on 11.04.2014 at 10:49 am in Roses Forum

Established own root roses here mainly fall into the shrub & climber categories. Bands mid-Summer last year & gallons this Spring of the types you mention still growing along in pots & not yet planted out, so will wait to see how they do once they've been in the garden a few seasons. (Storm damaged the roof & the garden area they're intended for will be needed temporarily for access to tear off & re-roof any day now. Been busy potting up the garden for protection rather than planting!) Hybrid tea Aloha & her sport Dixieland Linda/Lady Ashe grow & bloom well. They're both tall bushes or climbers & about 8'x8' after 8 years without pruning, arriving as gallons, but believe they could easily be kept to typical grandiflora proportions if desired. Both are healthy no spray & bloom generously early to late with great form & fragrance. New buds mature at staggered rates to give the effect of continual bloom. Westerland is another climber/shrub with floribunda parents that's done well. It's listed on HMF as growing 5-12', can also be grown free-standing, and may be kept to grandiflora size with pruning. Same goes for its sports - Autumn Sunset & Lemon Meringue - and all three rebloom rapidly & abundantly with fragrant flowers. All of these have the larger bloom size associated with the classes you mention, from 4-5".

Heavy clay can be a challenge, but it's often rich in minerals. This land was woodlot for a farm for 100+ years, and where it was undisturbed by construction, is nice & loamy after such a long run of natural composting. Near the house is another story. Dug those beds by hand to subsoil onto tarps, broke up the clumps & mixed the compacted native clay 50/50 with a trucked-in blend of half topsoil, half leaf compost, amended with gypsum, and refilled the beds. Fallen oak leaves serve as Winter mulch over compost put down Fall & Spring. After that reconstruction & maintenance, plants suitable for this climate have little trouble getting established. Now that armies of worms till & aerate the soil these many years, nothing else has needed to be added. Sort of a once & done approach. Compost, gypsum & chicken grit (if your soil doesn't already have small pebbles) are very helpful to change heavy clay into a more hospitable medium.

Great thread! Also curious to see which varieties do well own root, as that's become my preference.


clipped on: 11.04.2014 at 10:53 am    last updated on: 11.04.2014 at 10:53 am

RE: Water damage question (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: mepop on 10.27.2014 at 03:53 pm in Home Disasters Forum


For the record, I’m no fan of 98% of the companies doing insurance repairs. They mostly (not on paper) work for the insurance companies and not the property owners. The insurance companies are not the monsters everyone thinks they are but they pay as little as they can for insurance repairs.

Getting high quality work from a small repair contractor that works for the insurance company is like expecting a waiter to come around and crumb scrape your tablecloth at McDonalds.

However, your situation of category 2, water damage is likely accurate. Clean water can become gray water (cat 2) after only 48 hours. Can turn to black water (cat. 3) if conditions are right soon after.

If they put down an antimicrobial doesn’t matter much IMO. If you don’t have a moisture problem, you won’t have a mold problem. If they dried everything and tested the moisture levels in the building materials, you should be fine. How they listed the water leak on the paperwork doesn’t matter as long as the claim was reported properly.

Most insurance companies won’t pay these contractors direct unless you sign off on their repairs. I suggest if the contractor wants you to release them; you should have them release you from liability if they are collecting from the insurance company. Otherwise, have the insurance company pay you and you pay the contractor. This gives you some time to make sure the repairs were done well.


clipped on: 11.01.2014 at 01:55 am    last updated on: 11.01.2014 at 01:55 am

RE: Southern gardners-32 page preview of book (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: vasue on 10.26.2014 at 01:20 pm in Roses Forum

Me, too. Thanks, Ann! Love these old garden books.


clipped on: 10.26.2014 at 01:20 pm    last updated on: 10.26.2014 at 01:20 pm

RE: Should I give up on percale sheets? (Follow-Up #48)

posted by: vasue on 10.24.2014 at 04:53 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Penney's still advertises their Easy Care "perfect blend cotton/poly" sheets online, without specifying the percentage of each fiber. Are these different than what you like, Mary?

When I wanted old-fashioned cotton percale sheets, without the resin coating so many new ones have, found new old stock ones. Searching eBay for "cotton percale sheets" turned up vintage unused ones in their original package. For example, link is to a pair of double top sheet Pencale 100% combed cotton percale sheets by JCP.

Here is a link that might be useful: Pair JCP percale sheets


clipped on: 10.24.2014 at 04:54 pm    last updated on: 10.24.2014 at 04:55 pm

RE: Kind of off topic (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: vasue on 10.24.2014 at 02:16 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Very welcome for their first home were a stepladder & stool, a common tool set small enough to slip in a kitchen drawer, a picture hanging kit with a level in a case, a plug-in rechargeable large flashlight with detachable gooseneck & variable light settings & assorted battery sizes in a storage case, an attractive doormat. A pair of classic wooden candlesticks with holiday candle rings & sticks, a set of battery powered pillar candles and votive holders with battery inserts have all been hits. Handy & practical necessities.

Big fan of wish lists for clues, a family tradition that's thankfully been adopted by my son's. Typically pick & choose from those, but sometimes get lucky & manage multiples. Eight years ago my DDIL had a list of household stuff she'd been too busy to run around to find, including pyrex nesting bakers & bowls with snap lids to replace her mismatched ones, new broom & dustpan, measuring cups & kitchen tools. Found a complete set of pyrex at Sam's for $20 in the gifts aisle & the rest at Tuesday Morning for very reasonable prices. She's still using the broom that clips to its stand-up dustpan & the matching mini version (a long run for brooms) & all the rest.

One year my DDIL & I went shopping together & stopped by one of my favorite consignment shops, the kind that carries a wide assortment of inspirations. While she browsed, I found several things & took them to the counter. Noticed her eyeing an old ironstone washbowl with brown transfer decoration I'd picked up, though she didn't say anything. (Collected it over the years when it went for much less than brighter versions, appreciating how well it looks with rich wood.) It wound up under the tree for her & she was thrilled. Next year found a coordinating pitcher. Both are always out in one room or another, together or alone, since they look great empty or full. Now that their taste is known, they get another serving piece periodically - and I have all year to find one at a good price.

They've gotten vintage silverplate (along with Wright's silver cream to wash them). Picked up for very little a couple of years earlier with them in mind, afterwards wondered if they'd actually want it & put it away. They started out with minimalist design decor & branched out into classic traditional with clean lines when they decided to furnish the DR they'd used as a playroom. Had kept Mom's dining table & chairs for sentimental reasons - so many happy memories - just in case they ever wanted it. They love it. They later found a teacart in the same style, just like Mom had. I'm delighted family gatherings continue around that table and it's special to them. As they added hardwood floors & a mission stained glass fixture to the DR, decided to take a chance & give them the silverplate. She cried when they opened the silverware chest, and told me everything "good" they have came from me. Touched my soft heart to know the gift touched hers, making us both feel very specially loved & appreciated.

They could have afforded these touches themselves, but went against the grain to splurge on them instead of other things. But when it comes as a gift, no indulgence required. Told me later they had sticker shock when pricing new silverware & passed on it. My instinct runs toward older models in great condition for such things, and I'd spent less than good stainless (good, better, best) for it. Apparently a champagne gift on a beer budget. Let them know I didn't break the bank, but they consider it a very thoughtful & special gift. Many such opportunities when you search them out.

When my young granddaughter wanted a "real" tea set for her birthday, like the vintage coffee set I'd given her parents, found a lovely tea for two silverplate set with tray on craigslist for $15 that had belonged to the seller's mother - less than a plastic or metal toy set. Shined up & presented, just the ticket. She's learned to use & clean it & puts it away after our weekly tea parties on a shelf of that teacart. Very special, just like her.

Long way of illustrating the motto of "go practical or go special - or both!" What would you have appreciated at that stage of life? Start there.

This post was edited by vasue on Fri, Oct 24, 14 at 14:28


clipped on: 10.24.2014 at 02:34 pm    last updated on: 10.24.2014 at 02:34 pm

Just washed my Silhouette blinds: how I saved $700.

posted by: dgmarie on 07.05.2008 at 04:36 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Can you tell I'm proud? I wanted to share:

I have a bunch of Hunter Douglas Silhouette mini blinds and boy were they dirty. Dusty and little bugs inside of them. So I called a Hunter Douglas authorized cleaning service. He wanted SEVEN HUNDRED DOLLARS to clean 15 blinds. I was like OH OKAY and my husband wondered aloud how much NEW ones would cost. So I said what the heck, let's clean them ourselves. I got out the mini Bissel carpet cleaner (the kind with suction hose and two tanks and on-board heater) and just wet them and vaccumed out the water. We took them down and layed them on some thick towels in the kitchen to clean them. You should have seen the dirty water; it was BLACK. I mean, these were white blinds and they looked dusty but apparently they were filthy. And then since they are 100% polyester they dried in minutes and voila. Clean blinds. No water stains or marks or anything. I think I could have taken them outside in the sun and srpayed off the dust with the garden hose and it would have worked, too.


clipped on: 10.24.2014 at 08:46 am    last updated on: 10.24.2014 at 08:46 am

RE: Who lives in White Sofa World? (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: schicksal on 10.19.2014 at 10:31 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I have a white leather sectional that still looks the same color it did when it was new. It gets used every day and has survived major reno dust at two different houses now.

My secret is to clean it with Leatherique. The conditioning oil does an awesome job of bringing dirt and junk out. It's expensive but for perspective I've used maybe 1/2 of a quart bottle that I bought six years ago. The stuff also gets used on our cars. It works so well and lasts so long that I think it was a terrific deal.

Here is a link that might be useful: Leatherique link


clipped on: 10.24.2014 at 12:46 am    last updated on: 10.24.2014 at 12:47 am

RE: Rose Slugs repelled? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: michaelg on 09.26.2014 at 01:52 pm in Roses Forum

One caution about interpreting results--mama sawfly does not lay eggs on all roses equally. She likes glossy-leaveed climbers with wichurana heritage, and certain others. So it is normal for some plants to be more heavily damaged than others.


clipped on: 10.23.2014 at 07:42 pm    last updated on: 10.23.2014 at 07:42 pm

RE: Rose Slugs repelled? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: hoovb on 09.04.2014 at 08:21 pm in Roses Forum

I had bad rose slug damage for a few years, but then the Preying Mantis moved in. Damage has been reduced, oh, about 99%. I can probably find a leaf somewhere out there with a few holes in it, but it is going to be a search.


clipped on: 10.23.2014 at 07:41 pm    last updated on: 10.23.2014 at 07:41 pm

RE: Easy Elegance roses-they seem to be pushing them hard here (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: Nippstress on 08.20.2014 at 03:41 pm in Roses Forum

I too love the Lim shrubs, though it's sometimes a little hard to tell which ones are officially considered part of the Easy Elegance line. HMF says there are 25 of Lim's 60 shrubs that are in the EE line, but he has other Garden Art or Garden Path series, and most of the HMF listings don't specify yet. I was surprised to note on the great website above (thanks for posting this) that I had all but 5 of the ones on this site, and I think they're missing some that I have like Fiesta, or Music Box or My Hero or Calypso that might be EE.

Regardless, these really do live up to the hype as reported, though I agree that no rose is "no care" - at the very least when they're happy, they at least need deadheading! Until the last winter the LIm roses were the only breeder's roses that I've never lost from winter kill (20 out of 20 plants lived), but I did lose some roses that were new late summer plants and my well-established Yellow Submarine (for some reason) last polar vortex winter. Regardless, these roses are among my most reliable rebloomers and tend to be fairly tidy and almost blackspot free. They're more often semi-doubles than very full blooms, like Mystic Fairy - which reminds me of Eutin that's individually unexciting as a bloom but impressive en masse. OTOH, Sweet Fragrance is a double rich peach color that is one of my top 10 roses ever (out of more than 700).

I'll let mine speak for themselves in a few photos:

At the far left here is Mystic Fairy bleeding into the very similar Eutin (both low and dark crimson-pink).To the right of that, with the yellow buds is Yellow Submarine:

East Side Survivors June 2012 photo EastSideRedcream.jpg

Here's Fiesta - a very hardy striped pink/white:

Fiesta June 2013 photo FiestaSprayJune2013.jpg

Here's a first year Sunrise/Sunset that's the low pink plant. It has gotten so wide (but no taller) that I've had to tuck the canes into the arch with Illusion behind it to keep them off the sidewalk:

Illusion w Sunrise Sunset June 2013 photo IllusionGarageJune2013.jpg

Sweet Fragrance is the lovely fluffy apricot blooms toward the top of this shot, to show you how big she grows. Normally she's blooming from head to foot, but this shot has Carefree Celebration at the base instead:

SweetFragrance Carefree Celeb w Clematis June 2013 photo SweetFragCarefreeCelebration.jpg

Aww, come on, Sweet Fragrance deserves a shot all by herself!

Sweet Fragrance Spray June 2013 photo SweetFragranceSprayJune2013.jpg

Tempted yet?



clipped on: 10.23.2014 at 07:31 pm    last updated on: 10.23.2014 at 07:31 pm

RE: Easy Elegance roses-they seem to be pushing them hard here (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: ratdogheads on 10.16.2014 at 06:32 am in Roses Forum

Cynthia, did you get your Fiesta from Hortico?

Can anyone who has grown Champagne Wishes comment on the overall growth/shape of the bush after a few years? My 1st yr CW seems to have an identity crisis, it's sort of a HT-Flori-Shrub. I get meager clusters (2-3) of medium blooms, only on the end of long sturdy canes that all want to grow sideways. Very pretty flowers though, so I'm hoping she'll outgrow this awkward stage.

Kashmir, 1st year, is fabulous. One of the best roses I have ever grown.


clipped on: 10.23.2014 at 07:19 pm    last updated on: 10.23.2014 at 07:19 pm

RE: Easy Elegance roses-they seem to be pushing them hard here (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: Rosecandy on 10.15.2014 at 06:36 pm in Roses Forum

The only online source I could ever find for EE that was reasonably priced (the only other source offered them for $50-$100 each) was this website:

I ordered four roses from them and in my limited experience they have excellent customer service and great roses. The roses arrived in one gallon pots and one even had a bloom on it. Of my four roses (Kashmir, My Girl, Yellow Brick Road, and Little Mischief) Kashmir has the best rounded shape, while Little Mischief is kind of everywhere and My Girl and Yellow Brick Road put out a couple canes that are taller than the rest of the bush. Kashmir is by far the largest and between blooming times it always puts out a lot of new growth. All four roses have been disease free so far in our hot and humid weather while most of my other roses are mostly or completely defoliated (Midas Touch and Hot Cocoa are the only others that are full of leaves).


clipped on: 10.23.2014 at 07:17 pm    last updated on: 10.23.2014 at 07:18 pm

RE: Durability of solid surface countertops? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: vasue on 10.20.2014 at 08:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

Similar experience to Debbie's. After nearly 25 years, Corian countertops here still look & function as new. My husband likes to slice & chop in one area directly on the counter. After a few years of that daily ritual, that section shows very faint marks in bright light. He buffs it out when I get around to fussing - easier than using & washing a cutting board every day to him. Really like being able to put burning hot pans on the counter with no worries. The white seamless sinks are Corian - a breeze to clean, quiet, same as the counters.

The island's electric slide in range is an older glass top model with interchangeable modular sections. The burners are solid cast iron & get plenty hot, but likely less high heat output capacity than your gas Thermador. The repairman may be right about your cracking from heat. Might contact Thermador to see what they recommend as an insulator between the cooktop & counter. Perhaps the solid surface makers could also help with recommendations.


clipped on: 10.20.2014 at 08:59 pm    last updated on: 10.20.2014 at 08:59 pm

RE: Garden report (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: vasue on 10.18.2014 at 03:16 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Narcissus poeticus formed solid colonies here within a few years. Don't remember where I got them - one of the specialty bulb catalogs. Planted a couple dozen in loamy clay on the fringe of century-old woodland, added gypsum & compost to the site since it was compacted by heavy equipment when the clearing was created for this home before we came here. Planted them at recommended depth as Winter was coming on maybe 12 years ago, fairly close together & covered with fallen oak leaves. They've multiplied & bloomed longer each year since. One thing I noticed when digging a clump at the edge last Spring in bloom for a friend - and they transplanted fine that way, continued their bloom & expanded for her this year - was they'd pulled themselves much deeper than originally planted, a good 10 & 12 inches down. The bulbs I started with were on the small side, but those grown on were quite fat & substantial with lots of baby bublets, yet had arranged themselves so as not to be crowded underground. They do form seed & keep their green leaves until the temps crank up for good, but I couldn't say whether those seeds sprout & grow, since they fall within the clump, yet suspect they do. They get full sun from early morning till late afternoon from Spring on & supplemental watering while in growth on uncommon occassions when natural rainfall doesn't oblige. Different climate than yours, with rain year round averaging nearly 60" including snow, chilly & wet Winters of typical 0-10 degree lows interspersed with mild spells & Summer highs pushing 100F degrees.

There's no scent equivalent to theirs I've yet encountered, so unique & uplifting. Just thought I'd share a little of my experience as scant return for all you've shared with us. Love your garden updates & tours - feel like I'm walking beside you! Thank you for these interludes half a world away from my neck of the woods...


clipped on: 10.18.2014 at 03:18 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2014 at 08:45 am

RE: What Are Your Most Prolific Bloomers? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: canadian_rose on 10.11.2014 at 02:48 am in Roses Forum

Nicole Carole Miller, Ch-Ching, Fragrant Cloud, Peter Mayle and Valencia.
Here's Valencia


clipped on: 10.18.2014 at 08:19 pm    last updated on: 10.18.2014 at 08:19 pm

RE: Using 5 gallon buckets as pots (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: vasue on 10.18.2014 at 01:50 pm in Roses Forum

Uh-oh! Where have you heard this Winter is supposed to be worse than last, Rosecandy?? Brrr - say it isn't so.


clipped on: 10.18.2014 at 01:50 pm    last updated on: 10.18.2014 at 01:50 pm

RE: YIKES please help (Follow-Up #52)

posted by: vasue on 10.18.2014 at 11:53 am in Roses Forum

Great to hear, Beige! This was a sweltering Summer with the sun more intense than I recall, though that's been building noticeably for several years now. Felt like being in the Florida Keys many days! Coming on the heels of last Winter's extended cold & delayed Spring, double whammy for plants and those who care for them. That you've successfully shepherded them through this difficult year is a real credit to you & to them. The Austin's seem particularly "vocal" about what they do & don't like as individuals, sulking when unhappy & rejoicing when content. Rather a help in learning each's preference, since they make it clear in no uncertain terms.

The roses here get a generous helping of leaf compost spread at their feet a few inches away from the base right about now, later covered with oak leaves as a tuck in for Winter when those fall. By Spring both have further melted into the soil & another helping of compost alone is applied on top. Can't say if I'm feeding the worms or the roses - hopefully both - along with the soil micro-organisms. Happy worms aerate & till this mineral rich clay-based soil to help keep it from waterlogging, adding their fertilizer in the process. If the roses ask for it or I'm feeling frisky, they receive some fish-seaweed Neptune's Harvest during the growing season (watered in or foliar) & maybe compost if more is ready. Don't treat for fungal or other disease besides keeping the surface cleaned of fallen rose leaves & stripping the occassional affected leaflets, and rinsing foliage touched by rare mildew with a gentle water spray when necessary. With this approach in this climate, important to choose roses with disease resistance under similar circumstances.

A number of Austin's have come & gone through the years, though I'm not familiar with recent releases. Those that endured & thrive include Golden Celebration, The Endeavour & Abe Darby. Abe grows in his own spot downwind of other roses, isolated for his tendency to spot at the base when weather conditions push him, but even he does very well in the main, shrugging it off with a little attention to removing maybe 20% of his foliage showing the beginning inroads. The Endeavour blooms its best with high temps, really loving the heat. It's blooms are spectacular with chameleon hues that change daily & solid perfume. Apparently not widely grown, it's happy here. So is Golden Celebration, which blooms generously & continually from early to late. Another rose which Austin offers & which he's used in breeding is Boerner's Aloha, predating but in the style of his English Roses. Thrives here as a bountiful beauty with strong perfume & highly recommend in similar climates.

Keep in mind these are grown in mixed perennial settings, a garden with roses rather than a rose garden. Wishing you continued success with your roses, and a long Indian Summer going forward in which to enjoy them!

Here is a link that might be useful: The Endeavour

This post was edited by vasue on Sat, Oct 18, 14 at 11:57


clipped on: 10.18.2014 at 11:59 am    last updated on: 10.18.2014 at 01:16 pm

RE: Heuchera in the winter? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: vasue on 10.17.2014 at 06:13 pm in Heuchera Forum

Ditto gardengal's observations. Good idea to repot the 2 still in grower's pots now, since their roots & often foliage continue to expand. They're evergreen (ever-hued?) here in central Virginia. Frost & deep freeze don't bother them, even out in the open garden with only a light layer of shed oak leaves around them, so wouldn't be concerned. They usually don't go dormant here overwinter, though last year's extreme & extended cold caused some tattered leaves toward the tail end of the season. both for potted & planted heuchs & tiarellas, and our Winters are typically wet. The foliage often lays down during freezes & rises again afterwards. Those in planters on our covered front porch did need to be watered during mild spells, with warm water when the soil was frosty but open, as well as before cold was forecast so they didn't chill when dry.

Happy to hear yours are doing so well! You're in for another treat when they take on different hues for the coming season & then change back again in Spring. Enjoy!.


clipped on: 10.17.2014 at 06:14 pm    last updated on: 10.17.2014 at 06:14 pm

RE: Heucheras in the South (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: vasue on 10.17.2014 at 05:38 pm in Heuchera Forum

Glad you've found success with yours, Susan! Expect the heat & humidity in your neck of the woods are no less than here, if not greater. Pots do seem the best bet, at least until the plants are mature. The older Palace Purple types (planted & potted) did fine through the ordeal of last Winter & are as large as ever. The Sweet Teas planted in the porch boxes a year ago are still thriving & unexpectedly bloomed for months on end. Let their seeds fall into the garden below & curious if new plants will show up there. Wonder if they'll come true if they do? Still haven't planted the ones repotted into the garden. Storm blew away part of the roof this Summer(!) & the redo should finally start this month. Since the old shingles will be torn off & cause a mess, delaying replanting that bed till afterwards, hoping less to protect during the turmoil.

Dbarron, sorry yours are shrinking! Did you go with heuchs inground in in pots? In either case, think it's important to replicate their natural soil conditions - likely even more important in ground. Crumbly soil that holds moisture & air in equal amounts without waterlogging, like their woodland floor origins provide, would be ideal. Overly sandy or clay-based soil might be enriched with compost or such to help mimic those conditions. If yours are planted out, still time to pot them. Let us know...


clipped on: 10.17.2014 at 05:50 pm    last updated on: 10.17.2014 at 05:50 pm

RE: What Are Your Most Prolific Bloomers? (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: vasue on 10.17.2014 at 02:09 pm in Roses Forum

Another vote for Easy Does It from a third climate region in central Virginia. Golden Celebration comes in second. Contained within an obelisk behind Easy, the two are fetching together, as Easy has echos of gold in its blend here. Close runners-up are Fragrant Cloud & Aloha.


clipped on: 10.17.2014 at 02:11 pm    last updated on: 10.17.2014 at 02:11 pm

Rodents damage air duct. What to do??? Help!

posted by: Patintle on 12.04.2005 at 11:27 pm in Home Repair Forum

We found bunch of insulation and plastic came out of the heat register last week. Yesterday we found a HOLE in the air duct! I am pretty sure it's from rodents since there was dark brown droppings the size of 3/4" in the garage and our instant noodles were eaten. the rodents bait were taken as well. I would really appreciate advice on
i) how to make sure the rodents are out of the heating system,
ii) how to track where else the ducts might be damaged (could be inside the duct), and
iii) how should I fix/cleanup/ or replace the air duct!

We has a year contract with Terminix. But that does not seem to help preventing rodents! The pest control guy came in the put down 4-5 glue traps, but didn't capture any. Now I'm trying to find out on my own how to clean up and fix the ducts so we can get the heating system back on ASAP! It's pretty cold in the house since we turn off the heating system, being very concern about the health risk that might come witht the warm air that blows up from the damaged ducts with possible rodents feces. There are dark droppings INSIDE the duct right where the hole is (and the insulation came off). The insulation came up on the registers both on 1st and 2nd floor of the house. My house was built in 1989, The duct that has a hole is vinyl.

Again, anyone who has experience or knowledge on how to fix - I would really appreciate your help.


clipped on: 10.17.2014 at 01:49 pm    last updated on: 10.17.2014 at 01:50 pm

RE: Clotilde Soupert in bloom today....plant shots (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: erasmus on 09.28.2007 at 11:24 am in Antique Roses Forum

Thanks Carla, Carol, Brandy, Randy, DUchesse, and Predfern. The photos were not taken at night. I looked up the hardiness and I've got it as hardy from zone 6. I hardly ever see any dieback here in zone 7. I forgot to mention that my Clotildes have hardly been watered all summer..I think I watered them twice and we are in one of the worst droughts in recorded history here. It is still blooming away and even though it has been high 80's or 90's this week. It's just a trooper.

Here's a front yard pic or two. I planted my front yard full of roses because the soil in front is good, the morning light is good, and I have a less than wonderful view out of my front door so I created a little enclosed feeling with big wild roses. Altogether it's a bit untamed and I do get offers to cut them down to size like they should be.

This is a few years ago:

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Gertrude Jekyll ( no longer with us)

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket



clipped on: 10.17.2014 at 11:11 am    last updated on: 10.17.2014 at 11:11 am

Clotilde Soupert in bloom today....plant shots

posted by: erasmus on 09.26.2007 at 10:48 am in Antique Roses Forum

Clotilde is one of my favorites because of the massive bloom, great rebloom in big flushes, bs resistance, intense delicious fragrance, sheer soft loveliness. I have five plants, three in shade which are not bad bloomers through the summer.

This is two plants in my front yard by the street with a path between them:

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
\ Even in heat it can have a touch of pink in the centers. Sometimes in fall there is much more pink.



clipped on: 10.17.2014 at 11:06 am    last updated on: 10.17.2014 at 11:07 am

RE: rain! (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: vasue on 10.16.2014 at 12:31 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Hooray! Here's hoping all who crave the same receive this blessing posthaste!


clipped on: 10.16.2014 at 12:32 pm    last updated on: 10.16.2014 at 12:32 pm

RE: Favorite coral rose (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: vasue on 10.16.2014 at 12:17 pm in Roses Forum

Favorite would be Fragrant Cloud with a close second its child America, who also inherited the wonderful perfume. Rosarium Uetersen aka Seminole Wind blooms coral with raspberry here & Aloha shows a blend of coral salmon hues.

Here's your link, bellarosa!

Here is a link that might be useful: Rosarium Uetersen on HMF


clipped on: 10.16.2014 at 12:18 pm    last updated on: 10.16.2014 at 12:18 pm

RE: Master gardener advice on roses (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: vasue on 10.16.2014 at 11:21 am in Roses Forum

Looked over the regional course some years back & decided to pass. Pretty typical pest & disease management content stressing all the chemical variations of "-ides". Could have ignored that part for myself, but one of the purposes is to serve as consultant volunteer to the public & toe the party line on those (indeed, all) subjects. As an organic gardener some 50+ years, unwilling to go there.

A neighbor's a MG, which she's proudly told me each of the few times she's been out walking & stopped to chat in the garden. She's admired the self-sown colonies of native wildflower Corydalis lutea here. so I've given her several nice clumps, complete with extra soil & seeds as well, but she's yet to have them survive. Being the curious type, offered to brainstorm with her what might be helpful to get them established, but she wasn't the least interested. When I want to know how another grows something successfully, I'm eager to learn & full of questions, especially when the opportunity is hands on in the garden! She's yet to extend an invitation to drop by her garden, which she says is extensive & full of treasures, nor offered to share. Since it's in her backyard, never even glimpsed it from the road. (Because of the rolling nature of my yard, the main garden is on the level land out front & partially visible - pros & cons to that, as I'm sure many in the same boat can attest.) Somehow the Polyanna in me assumes all gardeners are generous by nature - guess I've lived a sheltered life. Very personable lady in other respects, but not what I'd consider a glowing example of the MG concept. Perhaps she consulted her experts about the wildflower's culture...

(Fair warning: Bit grumpy at the moment since the weather's not cooperating with my intense desire to be out working in the garden. Childish, but true. Thanks to you each & all for the next-best here!)

Seems to me the designation is misnamed. The course offered next Spring runs one day a week for 3 months, around 12 sessions, with intros about it held today & twice more in the next month. Somehow that doesn't impress me as enough to become a master at anything. Heck, I've spent many years pursuing practical knowledge on a number of subjects, and don't expect to ever master any of them. Always so much more to learn...


clipped on: 10.16.2014 at 11:28 am    last updated on: 10.16.2014 at 11:28 am

RE: Rosy dreams (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: vasue on 10.14.2014 at 01:56 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Sometimes dream of otherworldly gardens & the roses there are as magical as the place. So in that sense yes, I dream of roses. I so love to visit those gardens! Perhaps it's all one garden, since I never seem to experience all of it no matter how long I wander. I find myself at the starting point on a curve in my this-world garden. As I round the bend, the other-world garden "entrance" appears, marked to my left by a climbing rose of incredible beauty that arches above to mingle with plantings in my garden on the right. That unknown rose does not grow in this garden, so signals another garden tour is about to begin...Heavenly.


clipped on: 10.14.2014 at 01:57 pm    last updated on: 10.14.2014 at 02:03 pm

RE: Kordes rose performance (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: mariannese on 12.07.2012 at 05:56 pm in Roses Forum

I agree with Diane about the newer Tantaus but then I have little experience of new Kordes roses. Floral Fairy Tale is a good rose but not as strong as I could wish. I am taking part in a trial project with 123 private Swedish rose growers and I was given 5 new Tantau roses in spring. We had no choice as to varieties and I was sent 4 floribundas and one climber. I had room for no more. I am impressed with the floriferousness and health of Alabaster, Baronesse, Mariatheresia, Pastella, the floribundas, and Uetersener Klosterrose, the only climber. I am mainly an old rose grower but I have been won over by these roses. They have oldfashioned form and have flowered all summer into autumn. The foliage is a bit plastic looking but if that's the price for health I'm prepared to pay it. Pastella has the best scent among the lot , the others have a sweet and mild scent. HMF says that Baronesse is orange which is totally wrong, it is magenta rose but the colour is not at all harsh. I was afraid that it would clash with the others because I made a new bed for these trial roses.

Uetersener Klosterrose is absolutely beautiful and has a wild rose scent:


clipped on: 10.13.2014 at 03:30 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2014 at 03:30 pm

RE: Your most disease resistant roses in the yellow family: (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: vasue on 10.13.2014 at 02:17 pm in Roses Forum

Another with a soft spot for yellows & yellow blends, always interested in reports of those that excel in fungal resistance. In this seasonally hot or cold but typically humid garden with high blackspot pressure, Golden Celebration & Autumn Sunset are healthy without spray or other fungal intervention. Both bloom frequently & generously & smell good. Lemon Meringue, a sport of Autumn Sunset that's a blend of creamy & medium yellows, graced this garden for a spell & proved equally resistant to blackspot. Don't recall what caused its demise, but looking for an own root replacement, as those more easily deal with freeze thaw issues here. Julia Child from Chamblees this Spring is doing well. Two grafted Kordes' Golden Gate picked up locally early in the season have stayed clean so far & look very promising. An own root gallon Buff Beauty new from Monticello at the Wine & Roses event showed two cuttings & was divided - both doing well. Although BB had blackspot when I chose it, I'd wanted this rose a good while & decided to see if it might outgrow it. Picked off the affected leaves & grew them on in pots near other roses. Happy to say neither showed black spot again nor did their neighbors. This late in the season, that's certainly encouraging.


clipped on: 10.13.2014 at 02:58 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2014 at 02:58 pm

Confusion about violas being perennials or annuals??

posted by: gardenfanatic on 04.18.2004 at 01:31 am in Violet Forum

I got some violas in the "Annual" section of the garden center. The tag just said "viola mix" so I have no idea which kind they are. They have small dark purple flowers with a little yellow dot in the center and are about 8 inches tall. I'm a little confused about whether or not violas are perennial. I've read they are perennial, they are annual, they are self-seeding. If they are self-seeding annuals, I would assume mulching around them would prevent them from self seeding?

Does scent or lack of, indicate which type they are?

I've grown some Penny Lane Mix violas from seed this spring. They were in the perennial section of the seed catalog, but all the stores seem to have violas in the annual section. Does anyone know if Penny Lane violas are annual or perennial? Thanks,



clipped on: 10.10.2014 at 08:43 pm    last updated on: 10.10.2014 at 08:43 pm

RE: What is the name of this medium yellow rose? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: vasue on 10.10.2014 at 08:38 pm in Roses Forum

Any chance it could be one of the "Easy-To-Love" series? Fits the time frame, though all are still offered. Easy Going & Julia Child are yellow floribundas & could easily reach 5'. Of the two, Easy Going's flowers are reputed to be larger, though I'm not familiar with this rose. Julia Child is such a great favorite of many on this forum that I brought in two this year & now can be added to her fan list.

Take at look them at the link below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Easy to Love roses


clipped on: 10.10.2014 at 08:42 pm    last updated on: 10.10.2014 at 08:42 pm

RE: Friend's Request- Shade Tolerant, Scented Orange Rose (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: Weberriver on 01.03.2014 at 12:14 pm in Roses Forum

Westerland is a gorgeous apricot, has a magnificent fragrance, and seems to be quite shade tolerant. I have one growing on the east side of the house, where it is nearly always in shade, but it is constantly in bloom. This is in zone 6.

Here is a link that might be useful: Westerland at


clipped on: 10.10.2014 at 08:06 pm    last updated on: 10.10.2014 at 08:06 pm

RE: bands with multiples (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: vasue on 10.07.2014 at 12:19 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I leave the multiple band as-is & pot it up into a gallon to grow on. Then I divide the individual cuttings when it's ready to be potted into a larger pot again. My thinking is the new bands are fairly fragile & I want the roots to expand with more maturity to hedge my bet before dividing. I use a large non-serrated sharp knife to cut the individual plants apart with a down to the bottom & slowly but cleanly across stroke while they're still in the gallon pot. New pots & soil already at hand, each goes immediately into its own gallon before the next is cut & lifted. They're watered gently & well & set in shade for a few days before going back into more sun - dependant on the time of year, heat & weather - like any pot transplant. The ones with this treatment have done well, seemingly relieved to have room to grow after a cramped beginning.

This Spring was my first order of gallon roses from Chamblee's, and each had at least two cuttings, with a couple showing 3. They all went together into larger pots & were in turn divided & repotted after they'd grown on. They didn't seem to miss a beat. One that appeared to be 4 cuttings turned out to be only 3, when I discovered one set of roots had thrown another stem - upon meeting resistance to the knife which barely knicked it. Young roots cut easily, but an undersoil stem will stop a knife when using little pressure. That one's done as well as the others & grown another cane where I believe the knick occurred.

So for me, it's a thoughtful assessment & gentle operation, usually done on an overcast day when the weather signs are with me. Keep in mind these roses were all climbers or plants expected to reach a minimum of 3' with maturity, since minis are often grown as multiples. But I've divided those, too, with the thought that plants deserve their own "room" to grow to their full potential.

Contemplated this long & hard before deciding on this approach. Knowing that climbers will throw multiple canes, wondered if it mattered in the long run if they originated from the same set of roots. Recalled observing over the years that plants too closely spaced seem either to mutually dwarf or slug it out with some claiming dominion, whether in cultivation or nature. Figure with ample root room in all directions, likely not to be an issue with these roses. But still, I do like to direct the garden, whether the individuals who comprise it respond to cues or go their own way. If I plant 2 Westerlands in such close quarters, will the result be an impenetrable barrier rather than graceful growth as both vie for alpha status, or would they cooperate & act as one? With a rose known to sucker, guess you know going in. With the Westerlands - good-sized shrubby climbers - the thought of possibly dividing them down the line was sobering, while the ease of doing so in babyhood proved enticing in comparison...

And where I ordered pairs of climbers, I now have doubles & more. Also 5 of Julia Child instead of a couple, and on it goes. Not complaining - an unexpected serendipity of roses - but what to do with them all? Nowhere near out of room in this garden, so revised plans opening to mind & thoughts of gifting, though preparing new areas with deer protection wasn't originally in the cards. Good thing I have a stash of arches in reserve from a long ago whale of a sale! In gardening, as in life, nothing's so sure as a change of plans.


clipped on: 10.07.2014 at 12:26 pm    last updated on: 10.07.2014 at 01:21 pm

RE: To ledge or not to ledge.... (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: vasue on 10.05.2014 at 12:52 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I like the versatility of a ledge - more dimensional opportunities than a plain wall - adds a cozy scale to a high wall. Two go around a corner where the DR is partially open to the front hall here, above beams which support the open spans. Ledges on both the DR & entry sides but only visible from one side or the other, as the wall above ends at the center of the beams & deep molding finishes all sides. The entry hall walls go up another 15', giving a feeling of volume very similar to a vault. Neighbor friend has a 2-story family room where display boxes were set between the studs at what would have been slightly over single story ceiling height & drywalled. Both treatments give a more interesting silhouette to what is otherwise a straight tall wall expanse.

She displays sculptures in hers, which are strikingly dramatic at night with shadows from the lamp lighting below. My ledges hold colorful gameboards & painted wooden carvings. One of those tallish wand dusters on a swivel head makes dusting simple & twice a year I use a ladder to remove & clean thoroughly. Same with stoneware atop the kitchen cupboards. Paintings & 3-D artwork hung on the entry walls go nearly to the ceiling & get the high telescoping duster treatment in routine cleaning.

I don't think of these as dated, but as classic. Open beam structure from before colonial times were used to store & hang items, Craftsman homes often have wide & high shelving rimming a room for the same purpose, and cupboard tops traditionally store & display items. If you like the look & the possibilites, go for it. You can always leave them bare as dimensional highlights to the wall.


clipped on: 10.05.2014 at 12:55 pm    last updated on: 10.05.2014 at 12:55 pm

RE: Cedar Roof --- replace or restore (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: davidtay on 10.31.2013 at 09:55 pm in Home Repair Forum

The fascia should be inspected if you have the gutters replaced. It shouldn't cost too much to have the gutters done along with the roof. The soffit can be looked at ahead of time.

Decking is typically used for most roofs today and the presence of it under the existing roof is quite obvious when looking at the the underside of the roof in the attic.

The cost depends more on the labor costs at your location than the materials.

A composition shingle roof will increase the attic temperature and probably also that for the internal living area.


clipped on: 10.04.2014 at 04:05 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2014 at 04:05 pm

RE: New Roof Install - Problems and issues. (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: cjaustin81 on 09.10.2014 at 12:37 pm in Home Repair Forum

I have a professional roofer coming over Saturday to access the repairs needed and/or if the entire roof needs to be replaced. He's worried that the roof might not even be nailed correctly.

I haven't notified my insurance about these issues yet (I'm waiting to get my report from the roofers).

I demanded a new roof be installed last Tuesday when the owner called asking if he can start repairing the roof. The owner said he would get back to me and he hasn't yet. It's been over a week.

I signed a contract with them (they are a GAF Certified installer) to do the roof and siding. I now want out of that contract. I'm not sure they followed the insurance procedures correctly because they did the roof install before my insurance had received the affidavit of work from the roofing company. You could tell the owner seemed like they may have missed a step.

I have not paid them anything yet, I still have my insurance checks.

Here's the thing though.. the company I hired is GAF certified and bonded with the state of IL. However, I did NOT know they were going to sub contract the work out to another company. I don't know if the company they sub contracted the work to is GAF Certified or even a licensed roofing company (which is required in the state of IL).


clipped on: 10.04.2014 at 03:50 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2014 at 03:50 pm

RE: shingle roof cleaning; any experience with commercial sprays? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: rwiegand on 08.19.2013 at 01:15 pm in Home Repair Forum

It's usually an algae. Bleach and water mixed 1:2 (ie 1 gal bleach, 2 gal water) will make it go away, pretty much instantly. Apply with a garden sprayer. No need for anything fancier or more expensive. I've heard that copper, lead or zinc strips mounted at the peak will prevent regrowth, but have no experience with this.


clipped on: 10.04.2014 at 03:46 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2014 at 03:46 pm

RE: Ma Perkins Rose (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: roseseek on 11.12.2012 at 11:55 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Hi Judith, it roots and grows own root as easily as any other mid fifties floribunda. If you don't mind the color difference, I used to grow White Ma Perkins, the white sport, own root from Vintage. If they have that one available, it's about as vigorous, just white and a beautiful rose. There are many methods of rooting cuttings. It's almost time to wrap cuttings to root over winter. I'm waiting until the end of next month to permit them to store as many nutrients as possible before putting them through the stress of supporting themselves without roots. You may also have success with some of the other methods posted here and in the Propagation Forum. Good luck! Kim

Here is a link that might be useful: Wrapping Cuttings


clipped on: 09.30.2014 at 04:52 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2014 at 04:53 pm

RE: Rose ID? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: vasue on 09.30.2014 at 04:08 pm in Roses Forum

Austin's used Aloha in his breeding. Barbara Lea Taylor notes it was to "increase vigor and a free-flowering habit" in the link below, but I suspect he was also after the old-fashioned, sometimes quartered form of its flowers & that great perfume. (Still carries Aloha on his websites.) As much as I admire Austin's roses, including several that are happy here, must say I adore Aloha. Abraham Darby resulted from Aloha x Yellow Cushion & the family resemblance is striking - too bad Abe didn't inherit Aloha's sturdy constitution! Princess Alexandra of Kent is only listed as seedling x seedling, but may indeed have Aloha in her background...

Although Aloha is on the tall & wide side, I don't think of her as a huge rose. Really quite graceful & well-behaved here, gently arching high & flowering from laterals in clusters as she matures. Not even tip die-back down to 7 below one year nor after last year's extended bitter cold. Merely snap the spent blooms & have never pruned her. Last year a butterfly bush in a large pot was parked near her to overwinter. An ice storm followed by heavy snow which froze in turn weighed down the buddleia's branches till they draped over half of Aloha's, taking them near horizontal. Worried she would break, decided to leave them both be for fear or doing more damage trying to undo the situation. As the snow & underlying ice melted away, the canes of both returned to their previous posture without damage. Impressive flexibility in my book.

Alohas's in a mixed perennial bed across from her apricot sport Dixieland Linda/Lady Ashe, and doesn't seem to mind the flowers at her feet. You're most welcome, Pat. Hope you come to love her as much as I do!

Here is a link that might be useful: Old-fashioned & David Austin Roses

This post was edited by vasue on Tue, Sep 30, 14 at 16:18


clipped on: 09.30.2014 at 04:18 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2014 at 04:19 pm

You really want 'Mother of Pearl'

posted by: michaelg on 06.24.2010 at 06:25 pm in Roses Forum

It's a little early to be enabling for next season, but not to late to start a potted rose right now.

I am just crazy about MoP. It has a very beautiful HT-style flower in peachy apricot-pink with a satiny texture and a nice fragrance to my nose, though apparently some people can't smell it. These flowers come on long single stems or in clusters, and they last longer than any other rose I grow, whether cut or left on the bush.

The plant is vigorous, bushy, and free-blooming. Its foliage is abundant and resistant to disease so far. Celeste grows it in zone 4-5 New Hampshire. In my mild climate it is tip-hardy in winter and happy all growing season, but I haven't heard how it does in heat or amidst the West Coast diseases.

For me, it's about as good as a modern bush rose can get. Do yourself a favor.

Here is a link that might be useful: MoP @ HMF


clipped on: 09.30.2014 at 07:54 am    last updated on: 09.30.2014 at 07:54 am

RE: Rose ID? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: vasue on 09.29.2014 at 06:20 pm in Roses Forum

Pat, your rose looks & sounds like Boerner's 1949 Aloha to me. An ownroot gallon came here 6 years ago & was the spitting image of yours at that age. It showed a touch of blackspot its first year, but not since, and I don't treat or spray. Now it's a graceful bush easily 7+ feet wide & tall. Its willingness to bloom often & generously, along with its health, is impressive - a happy rose here. And those blooms! All I'd hoped for from the descriptions in the midcentury rose books that convinced me I wanted her years ago, a delight in every way.

Here is a link that might be useful: Aloha photos at HMF


clipped on: 09.29.2014 at 06:22 pm    last updated on: 09.29.2014 at 06:22 pm

RE: Winter care for passion flower? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: vasue on 09.28.2014 at 02:16 pm in Passiflora Forum

Since no one else has replied, I'll jump in. All depends on which cultivar you have. Which passionflower do you grow? There are many named varieties & cold hardiness varies with each one, so start with knowing which one you grow & its reaction to cold temps. Would think in your zone most would be root hardy if not cane hardy, so mulching the root zone would be sufficient unless your vine is only rated for zones 9-10.

Is this a young first year plant in your garden? If so, the root mass may not allow the canes to survive its first Winter. I would not prune back the vine. My Blue Bouquet died back to the ground its first two Winters, but resprouted from the roots to grow strongly & quickly each Spring. When it gained enough root mass with more maturity, it was able to overwinter its topgrowth, even keeping most of its leaves. The main stems got thicker, turned brown & woody & weren't phased by cold down to zero here. Autumn thin stems usually were too new to survive, but a few always managed to. Those that didn't were clipped out in early Spring, back to live wood. Dead leaves were left as insulation till then as well.

Here in central Virginia, we usually have mild spells periodically during Winter. Found it's important then to water the roots during these spells if no rainfall obliges. Also make sure to water them well before cold spells are predicted in the Fall, so the ground is moist before temps go down.

Four Blue Bouquets were planted here in '99 to grow up front porch pillars & span the arches between. The base of the porch is stone, which likely keeps them warmer than they would be further out into the garden. The porch faces ESE & the passionflowers are protected by the house from cold & drying prevailing Winter winds from the North & West in that location.

Is your trellis & passionflower located in a Winter-protected spot? Depending on your variety, where you have it sited & what size it's attained so far, different protection measures could be used in its early years. Let us know the passionflower you grow & it's garden position, and we'll brainstorm how best to protect it.

This post was edited by vasue on Sun, Sep 28, 14 at 14:18


clipped on: 09.28.2014 at 02:20 pm    last updated on: 09.28.2014 at 02:20 pm

Lavender "Phenomenal"

posted by: rouge21 on 01.16.2013 at 07:31 pm in Perennials Forum

I have seen some good reports of this new to NAmerica Lavender. (In Europe it is known as "Pure Platinum").

It even has its own Facebook page!

It appears it was available summer 2012 but I don't recall seeing any discussion of it on GW.

It seems that part of its appeal is its 'extra' hardiness.

Here is a link that might be useful: PHENOMENAL


clipped on: 09.27.2014 at 02:56 pm    last updated on: 09.27.2014 at 02:56 pm

RE: My most fragrant rose (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: vasue on 09.27.2014 at 11:04 am in Roses Forum

Of those currently grown here, another vote for Fragrant Cloud. Leaning in to inhale its fragrance, can literally taste as well as smell its delightful perfume from several inches away, so strong it is in this humid garden. Crimson Glory is my all time favorite for fragrance, but I've yet to persuade it to endure in several gardens...

The scent of two Belinda's Dream (new this year) reminds me of their pollen parent Tiffany. Not as strong as Tiffany, but very satisfying with the same notes.

Many of those mentioned here received the Edland or the Gamble Medals (sometimes both) for outstanding fragrance.


clipped on: 09.27.2014 at 11:05 am    last updated on: 09.27.2014 at 11:05 am

RE: A few photos of wet roses (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: the_dark_lady on 08.21.2012 at 09:12 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

Thank you, Diane.
I have three Zaide bushes in my garden. All three are growing wonderfully. They make quite large bush, nice and thick, they are V-shaped with slightly arching strong branches.
This rose is a great bloomer and the flowers are always large and very full regardless of the weather.
It also sets really pretty hips - large and olive shaped.

Here are couple more pictures of Zaide


clipped on: 09.25.2014 at 01:37 pm    last updated on: 09.25.2014 at 01:37 pm

RE: Mold in drywall? and something wierd (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: energy_rater_la on 09.15.2014 at 05:03 pm in Home Repair Forum

you should really start a new thread as you'll get
more input Donna.

first understand that for mold to grow it needs
two things, moisture & a food source.
eliminate the moisture source, once
you find out what it is. I'd start at the roof.

open the ceiling, remediate..maybe as simple
as letting things dry out once moisture is stopped,
maybe materials need to be replaced.
you won't know until you can see it.

it takes time for mold to grow, it doesn't happen
overnight, so maybe hoa will have to cover it if it
predates your repair of roof. inside the home it
can take 5 years...but in a garage? don't know.

you'll want someone experienced
in mold remediation to handle materials properly & safely
as they are removed. and be able to prove it if necessary
to hoa. that may be expensive.

I do a some of mold remediation, respirators, sealing off
room, double bagging materials etc.
reason for doing the work is that too many people treat
mold like a gold mine & scare homeowners with toxic mold
stories. realistically, only 2 types are toxic, and every
house has mold...somewhere.
so try to steer clear of those folks.

so, if you were to diy, fix leak, open ceiling.
once you open a spot can look to see
how far the damage extends. cut out sheetrock
to that point & look again, cut so that you can easily replace it with new sheet/piece.
remove insulation, if any & look at 2x's to see if mold
has grown on them.
I use tsp (tri sodium phosphate or something like that)
& scrub with a brush. let dry, rinse, scrub again.
let it all dry for a few days. put a fan on it.
check moisture level of wood & at 30% you can
close it up again. tape & float sheetrock.
sometimes I'll kiltz or bullseye/zinner the framing
members when the area is opened.

hope your hoa will do what is right here for you.

best of luck


clipped on: 09.17.2014 at 10:15 am    last updated on: 09.17.2014 at 10:16 am

RE: Nail pops... lots of 'em in a short time frame (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: manhattan42 on 09.15.2014 at 07:47 pm in Home Repair Forum

"Popping" nails or screws is usually caused by changes in moisture levels, and those moisture level changes occur within the wood framing members themselves.

When that occurs, it is likely due to normal 'drying' of the lumber or in an existing house, due to changes in the (air) 'conditioning' of the home from summer to winter.

But that said, you may be surprised to discover that the nail pops are not really caused by the house 'settling' or changes in moisture content in the lumber.

There is a growing recognition amongst builders and code inspectors that the culprit is the drywall itself.

The drywall?

Yes, the drywall.


Most builders now use 'lightweight' drywall.

The trend began about 4 years ago.

Not only is 'lightweight' drywall actually lighter in weight, and therefore easier to physically handle and also costs much less than standard drywall board.

The problem is, (and a problem that drywall manufacturers refuse to admit), is that unlike standard weight drywall, lightweight drywall itself actually 'shrinks' and 'expands' with changes in humidity.

Rather than producing traditional nail 'pops'... which are typically concave indentations in standard drywall caused by drying of studs...and which pulls the fasteners "in"...

"Pops" caused by lightweight drywall 'shrinkage' are evidenced by fasteners protruding "OUT" from the lightweight drywall the drywall itself changes thickness with less humidity.

How is this possible?

Drywall manufacturers won't admit that the lightweight 'fillers' they use which adds rigidity to the board and which decreases its weight, are also hydrophilic, that is, they absorb moisture and expand when they do.

I was recently made aware of the problem by a townhouse developer and builder whose homes I regularly inspect as the Building Official.

He took me through his 20 or so townhomes he built over the last 5 years and showed me where he stopped using standard drywall and began using 'lightweight' drywall.

The conditions of installation were the same.

It became IMMEDIATELY apparent that there was something amiss when he switched to 'lightweight' drywall:

No 'pops' before...
'Pops' all over ever since....

He has since gone back to using standard weight drywall and his problems have disappeared....


clipped on: 09.17.2014 at 09:03 am    last updated on: 09.17.2014 at 09:03 am

Vanilla Strawberry Hydrangeas Leaves

posted by: AddictedToFlowers on 05.29.2014 at 04:51 pm in Hydrangea Forum

This spring we planted five of these and they seem to be doing good so far. Last night I noticed some spots on one of the bushes leaves. Is this anything I need to be worried about?


clipped on: 09.17.2014 at 08:48 am    last updated on: 09.17.2014 at 08:48 am

RE: Did anyone save Pappu's 'Big Stinking Mess' thread? (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: msjam2 on 04.18.2009 at 05:58 pm in Roses Forum

Guess what I found in my hard drive! I was saving all my photos in my new cool gadget passport hd and found this!


A big stinking mess! Help!
Posted by pappu z5 IL (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 2:49
Just disastrous results with my attempts at brewing alfalfa tea...after all the posts about the tea, I had to make it. Someone posted a link which gave instructions on how you could jazz up the tea...anyways, I think I added too much alfalfa cubes which expanded in the water to form a solid mush. I added brown sugar, soy sauce, ripe fruits, one cat fish fillet (I swear, the post said it would add extra minerals) a banana peel and stirred the mix and now it smells absolutely horrendous! It is frothing and has a sickening stench and I am even afraid to go near it. And all this is in one of those huge garbage bins with wheels. I am just afraid to use it on my roses....what if they just wilt and die from this vile stuff...and how do I get rid of it? It gets stinkier every day. Any ideas?
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: melva 7b/8aTX (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 4:02
I would be afraid of that s*** too! Where on earth did you get that recipe? I am pretty sure it won't hurt your roses...but...go ahead and give it to your plants...sounds like you need to add more water to it, if it is semi solid. An alternative thing to do with it, is dig a big hole, pour it in the hole cover it, and RUN! real fast! Just Alfalfa and water together smells bad enough, once it has fermented, but this stuff! You have my sympathy...I had to deal with some old tea, a couple of years ago, and it smelled BAD! It was probably nothing, compared to what you have. In the future...just use Alfalfa and water, skip all the other stuff.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Brother_Cadfael z5 seWI (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 5:30
I wouldn't disagree w/ melva about it not hurting your roses, but what about the effect it may have on you? That rotting fish you have in there is not the same as adding fish emulsion after the tea is fermented, it's a rotting corpse now! That stuff makes typhus and cholera look like cotton candy! I just had my first experience w/ fish emulsion last week, now I don't have a weak stomach, but everytime I went near that rosebed for the next 4 days, I would literally GAG ! My question would be: Do you want this crap to smell up your yard/house for 3-5 days? Would you even be able to work around that smell? The "catfish fillet" alone would have sent me to ANYWHERE up-wind from there. Did he/she give you and MSDS with that recipe? It sounds like a damn BIO-HAZARD! If they were brewing that stuff on prison farms, they'd be cited for cruel and unusual punishment! It doesn't sound like a healthy mixture to be around:^( I can't imagine what the crap you brewed up smells like! What sick son of a b*t*h gave you that recipe? He/she can't have any freakin' sense of smell, or any sense at all. If they would have strategically dropped 4 barrels of this S*** on Iraq, Hanoi, Afganistan, or any other wartorn part of the world at any time in history, I bet you after only 12 hours there would be white flags as far as the eye could see! If I were you I would get rid of the crap!... I have a drain valve built into my 32gal tea-can, so it would be easy for me to get rid of it. But if you have to "dip" into it everytime, GOD HELP YOU!!! The best place for that stuff is a sanitary sewer! You can see I'm not at a loss for words, but I don't know what to tell you to do w/ the crap!!! Can you build four walls around it and let an advanced, future, civilization deal with it? You spill that stuff and it's gonna be Chernobyl all over again. Is it solid alfalfa all the way through? I was thinking maybe you could siphon it out, but that crap is probably so thick you'd need a hose the diameter of a basketball to get anything through it. You may want to call your local fire dept. and ask about the cost of a HAZ-MAT disposal... Or a waste disposal company... It may not sound like it, but I am taking this very seriously! I don't know what else to say, I'll be here for moral support, should you need it. GODSPEED!!! BC:)
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: GaelicGardener z6 RI ( on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 7:52
Just duct tape the cover onto the barrel and leave a note on it for the garbagemen that says "Take it barrel and all!"
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: SueTO z6a TO (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 8:12
I had a feeling when I saw the post title that you'd fallen INTO a vat of alfalfa tea. This appears much worse. The brown sugar and fruit have probably started an alcoholic fermentation process to boot. (soy sauce??? what the heck? it has salt in it!) The fish corpse makes me antsy too, but, if you put on bio-hazard attire (or a close simile thereof) and scooped a bucket of two of the stuff in to another garbage can, then added water to dilute it and then spread it around - would that work? do you have enough real estate to spread the stuff around when it's diluted? Or, take GaelicGardener's suggestion - probably easiest and safest. Sue
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pete41 9ab FL. (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 8:17
Haven'tyou ever heard of honey wagons?Go for it,wearing long rubber gloves.Next time soak some alfalfa in a five gallon bucket for an hour or so,add your epsom salt,fertilizer etc. and put it around.Call it instant tea or whatever you want its as good as the old witches brew.Careful how you read the last sentence.I have to admit though,i picture a lot of ``cackling and stirring "when I see posts about making ``tea".
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: altoraMA 5/6 MA (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 9:16
I think the you were probably only supposed to add the banana peel-the rest of the stuff is probably a recipie for how to prepare catfish. >??? I'd really like to see this post! A few years ago there was a terrible smell in our neighborhood-so bad the fire dept was called. They all thought there was a body somewhere, but after searching around, found it was a pile of compost. It was very hot and the smell was terrible. I don't know what they did with it but the smell was gone a few days later. alida
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Brother_Cadfael z5 seWI (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 10:02
:) Yeah Pete, I've heard of honeywagons, (if you mean the old outhouse pit crew), but when they had a"full load", they didn't go knocking door to door to see if you wanted it dumped on your flowerbeds.;)
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pete41 9ab FL. (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 10:07
A couple of years ago I bought some generic milorganite at a very rural feed store.Four bucks a bag.WOW,,no, PHEW.NO doubt that was right off the wagon.LOL-poor neighbors never did know where the stench came from.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: smom40 5MO (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 10:09
I'd post this on the compost forum and see what they have to say about it. (It might be just fine to use, just intensely nasty.)
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Roseman Z 8A GA (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 11:42
Here is the recipe that Howard Walters recommended, and it is the ultimate and the best: "Add 10 to 12 cups of alfalfa meal or pellets to a 32 gallon plastic garbage can (with lid), add water, stir, steep for four or five days, stirring occasionally. You can also fortify with 2 cups of Epsom salts, 1/2 cup of Sequestrene (chelated iron now sold as Sprint 330) or your favorite trace element elixir. The tea will start to smell in about three days. Keep the lid ON. Use about a gallon of mix on the large bushes, and 1/3 of that on the minis. And keep the water going. One load of meal or pellets will brew up to two barrelfuls, but add more fortifiers. You will see greener growth and stronger stems within a week." REMEMBER, KEEP THE LID ON. Howard recommended using this in the fall only, but spring and fall are better rather then throughout the season. You will notice there is no mention of making this into garbage international. Just use what is in the recipe. AND ABOVE ALL - KEEP THE LID ON!!!!
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: harryshoe z6easternPA (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 11:51
If you think the fruit has fermented, I would drink it. Don't worry about the fish. Heck, Bass is my favorite beer.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: txkat Z7BNC (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 11:56
Whoa, that sounds incredibly nasty. When I make intensive care alfalfa tea, I add composting bananas and potato peels in a slurry ( whir them around in the food processor and add water til it's like a milkshake) and Milorganite ( pooh) and I've never had a rose fail to bounce back with it, but HOLY GOD man, what have you done????? I'd hate to waste it. It'll only smell for a couple of days. Put on your mask for spraying, and mix about 16 oz of whatever that stuff is in a gallon of water per rose. That's what I'd do....but I'm a little unhinged at times.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Mike_Rivers z5 MI (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 12:15
Sounds normal to me. At least cat fish turned out to be catfish and not cat, fish - although, come to think of it....
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: msjean Z6..NS...Canada (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 12:20
Some people use fish in their compost teas, but they let them sit in soil in a airtight container until the fish decomposes and becomes part of the soil.. I don't understand the soy sauce, and usually molasses is used ..not brown sugar... but the rest of the ingredients could work ok. If it were me, I'd use it...dilute it well and water it well. I bet your roses would love it and the smell would soon be gone in a short time. You wouldn't mind it too bad after a few minutes because the smell would soon "clog your smeller" and it wouldn't seem too bad. Just before a big rain ...under the cover of darkness would be a good time to spread the neighbours don't know where the smell came from...just in case there is a bad smell. :) I say go for it. :) Good luck.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Berndoodle z9 SF Bay Area (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 13:25
Is that recipe for real or a joke? Where's the arugula? I assume the amount of soy sauce was miniscule. Salt is lousy for plants. Twere me, I'd put that stuff on the roses just to get rid of it. For the application of alfalfa/manure tea, wear rubber boots and rubber gloves and throw away clothes. Whatever you do, don't get it on your sneakers or you will have to throw them out. It stinks, and as far as I'm concerned, it's back-breaking and unpleasant. If you want my recipe, this is it: Fill 32 gallon garbage can with water in a location near your roses. Add about 1-2 buckets of alfalfa pellet or cubes, 1-2 cups of fish emulsion (don't have the label on me right now, but make it very dilute), 1 cup of seaweed type fertilizer, a big bucket of compost and a bit of Growmore Organic Chelated Iron (make it very dilulte). Stir with a garden stake. Leave it out in the garden until you notice the smell when you walk by, about 3 days. Stir with a garden stake before and during application. Apply with a bucket by splashing over the top of the rose. Take a shower and don't return to the garden for a couple of days. If you have more roses than one garbage can will feed, I betcha you don't do it twice.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Oshenar Vancouver (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 13:28
I don't think it would kill the roses to use it. The smell should be gone in a few days. Except for the soy sauce (which is mainly salt), everything else in there seems to be organic/natural-source type of thing so it is probably less likely to burn the plants or anything. You can dilute the mixture and use it a bit at a time if you are feeling "unsafe" about it (this would probably reduce the smell in the garden too). From what you described, the thick soup you made will probably be able to last you a little while (just treat it like a concentrated organic fertilizer of sorts).
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: rosetom 7 Atl (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 13:36
Forget this stuff and buy some MMM. You'll be much happier. It works better than any tea concoction, and you won't have a mess. Or, if you insist on do-it-yourself, you can buy the MMM ingredients in bulk and mix it yourself. Most any rose society in your area can get deep discounts on MMM.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Patricia43 z8 AL (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 14:01
I think some legs were pulled to the fullest.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pappu z5 IL (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 14:06
Sheesh, what a mess! Temps are high 80's today and the 'thing' is a frothy iridiscent green with a brown film on it (the brown sugar?)It seems to be expanding and has pushed the hinged cover up today morning. The stench seems to have a putrid 'sweet' undertone to it today. Thank you all for your very entertaining(it really is not funny) suggestions but no, I cant wait until next thursday for the garbage guy to pick it up, cannot dig a hole to bury it, and, drink it? Shame on you Harryshoe :-) Well, I will approach 'it' today and try to mix it and maybe take some of it out in 5 gallon used paint pails and dilute with water and whatever...before the neighbors call the police. I feel bad for them, very nice people but this is like... DW cannot believe the stupidity I am capable of, thanks to u all....please stop posting the recipes for alfalfa teas and exploding basal breaks and lush grren roses and a billion buds. No more gushing posts about tea(vile, toxic radioactive sludge is what I call it) and just tell 'em to spread the alfalfa pellets/cubes around the bushes, thank you
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: MichaelG z6B NC Mts (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 15:41
Bottle some of it and use it to season your favorite Thai recipe. Dilute the rest of it 3:1 and put it on the garden. Next time, just put a cup of alfalfa pellets under the mulch.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pappu z5 IL (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 16:03
I am trying to post the link, but cannot find it! Level 3( I think there were 5 levels) tea jazz-up was buy an aquarium airpump and bubble air through the tea! Sheepish admission: Almost bought an air-pump at Walmart, just did not have the time for it. Can u imagine what bubbling air would have done to the 'tea'? LOL
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: AndreaGeorgia z7 NC (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 16:29
Next time, keep out the other junk (who in all the world told you to add that rotten stuff anyway - that's a recipe for disaster), and instead use trace elements (e.g. epsom salts and iron) which you can buy cheaply. Adding trace elements actually keeps the smell down a bit, as I found out (in conrast to your recipe). Stirring once a day also helps. Shouldn't be such a big deal. Just throwing alfalfa pellets on the soil doesn't do too much at all in my experience, they just get moldy and keep sitting there if rodents don't get them, but ymmv. (there are no dead fish and rotten banana peels in this recipe ;-). Andrea
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: rosetom 7 Atl (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 16:54
Perhaps fermentation was too strong a term, but descriptive for a process that results in the release of alcohol, nonetheless. I think I agree with Patricia that there's a lot of leg-pulling going on. I just wish the huge messes I've made with the stuff was a joke, too. None of it is very funny when you find yourself with 60 gallons of it.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pappu z5 IL (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 17:08
I found the link...this is even more cider, mackerel, rotten fruit, on!
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: smom40 5MO (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 17:31
Thank you for posting this..I knew that I read something on this site about it. I've seen this FAQ in the past. Glad that I was busy/lazy and hadn't tried it.
crossing fingers!
� Posted by: smom40 5MO (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 17:31
Btw, I hope that after all of this crap, you get a result from it.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: lilaclily z5IL (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 17:40
I have to speak up since I was the one that posted the link. Yes people, this stuff works. Although I have never thrown an entire fish into mine, I did throw in a can of tuna fish once. It stinks to high heaven, it is supposed to. It looks disgusting, it is supposed to. The recipe is not a joke, although you do have the option of adding as much of the "recommended" ingredients to it as you feel comfortable with. Pappu sounds like he jumped in enthusiastically, nothing wrong with that. Some just prefer the nicely packaged, tidy, store-bought fertilizer. But don't knock it until you've tried it! Pappu I personally think it sounds ready.
RE: Smell doesn't last
� Posted by: lilaclily z5IL (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 17:44
I forgot to add that the smell does not last once applied. I water my plants (and roses) with the strained tea, then follow up with a good shower from the hose or sprinkler. I've made several batches of this tea since last year, with nothing but positive effects not only to my plants but to my soil.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: shebear z8 NTex (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 18:50
Nobody ever said growing roses was for the weak of stomach. Dilute it and spread it everywhere. Next time leave out the fish.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Ginni77 z 5 Illinois (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 19:47
Yuck! I just mix alfalfa meal and water. Maybe a bit of Epsom Salts, but not every time. I couldn't even use the fish emulsion...I don't know how you can stand it. Plain old alfalfa tea is bad enough. I can only imagine what that stuff smells like. And I'm beginning to think just putting some alfalfa around the rose under the mulch is a better idea. I'd really be leery of the salt in the soy sauce and the brown sugar might attract all sorts of critters to your garden. If you use it, let us know how it works. Ginni (feeling really sorry for you!)
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Kernel_SJHRG_Z9B 9B CA (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 20:20
Lilaclily, Is your real name Snuffy Smith? IMWTK! Da Kernel who couldn't resist.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: madspinner z7 WA skagit (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 20:47
I've just been tossing handfulls under my plants... I've thought of brewing the tea, but you may have scared me for life! LOL! That sounds really awfull! I might have to try it anyway, but I think I'll leave out the rotting fish.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Jeri_Jennings 23 SoCal (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 21:10
DEFINITELY leave out the rotten fish! We just make plain old alfalfa tea. YES, it is stinky, but that smell goes away in a few hours. (Our neighbor did once ask what that awful smell was.) Don't plan a garden party the day you pour it out . . . the roses will thank you profusely for the pick-me-up. But ... FISH?? Soy Sauce? ICK ICK ICK. Jeri Jennings
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: lilaclily z5IL (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 22:30
Kernel, guess I'm not getting the joke? I'm from Chicago and the only time we use a word that resembles or starts with "snuff" it usually makes the front page of the newspaper the next day. But my real name is Elisabeth, pleased to meet you! You can laugh and poke fun if ya want to, but I don't need to use any chemicals, nor do I winter protect, my roses are healthy and vigorous and the rest of my many plants ain't too bad either. :) Best of all, I do it for next to nothing. Compost/alfalfa tea does alot more than just feed your plants, it feeds your SOIL. It improves your soil like no store-bought fertilizer can do. Alfalfa tea by itself works wonders, but compost tea is actually better for your plants and for your soil. I didn't come up with the recipe so I am not offended if no one wants to use it, and it is definitely not for everyone, that is true. But it is a rare day that you will find a "Help... my rose is doing such and such...." post from me on this forum.... gotta wonder why? Brother_Cadfael, oh your post was funny, I split my sides laughing, lol, read it to DH too. You're right, it's green, it glows, and it stinks... lol... lethal stuff but wouldn't trade it for the world.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Brother_Cadfael z5 seWI (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 23:29
lilaclily, I apologize if I offended you, I was unsure of the chemistry relating to the rotting fish... it just seemed like very unhealthy thing to be working with. I never expected that recipe to come from someone I respected - thought it was from some insane person:) - (affected by an insanity other than rose obsession)... I always look forward to reading your posts, we have a lot of roses in common, some in my past, but mostly in my present. Please accept my apology. BC:)
RE: Fish Brew!
� Posted by: Brother_Cadfael z5 seWI (My Page) on Sun, Jun 5, 05 at 23:38
Hi, my name is Brother Cadfael, I'm a rose-aholic. Step 1, in the twelve steps back to sanity: Never having to aplogize to a fellow member because I shared my uneducated opinion with the world about said members rose fertilizer brewing habits.:) BC:)
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: AndreaGeorgia z7 NC (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 0:43
Oh my, interesting what people do to keep their roses happy and make everyone else, including themselves, sick even if there are much better common sense solutions. Instead of using soy sauce (that's a bad one) and rotten fish (oh dear), you could just as well fumigate your beds with lots of SO2 and CO2 - this might poison you and your neighbor's dog but BS will disappear your roses will love it. Pump up the volume. C'mon, just use that plain old alfalfa tea and once a year add some trace elements outta the box/bottle, if needed. It's very very simple and doesn't stink that horribly. Your roses will thank you mightily, and noone will faint. Happy gardening, Andrea
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pleasegrow 7a (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 0:50
If you want to add a rotten fish, that your business, but I prefer to use fish emulsion. This is what I add to my alfalfa tea: 1- 32 gal trash can Fill with water Add 12 cups of Alfalfa meal Stir and cover for 1 week, stirring daily. This alone stinks to high heaven, almost makes me gag, but I am getting used to it. Just prior to application I add the following: 1 Cup Miricle Grow - Optional if you want all organic 1 Cup Epsom Salt 1 Cup Fish Emulsion 1 Cup liquid Seaweed Fertiziler 1 Cup Chelated Iron with micro nutrients, (new from Green Light) 2 onces of Super Thirve - (Just started adding it this year, and I have seen a huge increase in basal breaks) Stir well, apply 1 gallon per bush. Water bushes well be applying, as you may burn plant. Thanks/John
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Patricia43 z8 AL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 1:24
Well, I can't argue with success having heard it said that Johnny Becnel admonished listeners to throw a fish head in every hole.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: mjsee Zone 7, NC (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 7:50
Altogether now: Fish heads, Fish heads Roly poly Fish heads Fish heads, Fish heads Eat them up, Yum! mel
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: lilaclily z5IL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 8:24
Brother_Cadfael, you didn't offend me, I was serious when I said your post really made me laugh! Especially when you wrote "I can't imagine what the crap you brewed up smells like! What sick son of a b*t*h gave you that recipe? He/she can't have any freakin' sense of smell, or any sense at all.". LOL, 'twas me, me I say! Frankly, the stuff makes me gag. DH will tell you, the first time I brewed it, I almost hurled. I thought the same thing.... something THIS vile surely can't be good for my plants! While the recipe called for CANNED fish first, Pappu skipped a step! This is what is says: Add 1-2 cans of mackerel, sardines, or other canned fish. Supplied extra NPK, fish oil for beneficial fungi, calcium from fish bones. Most commercial fish emulsions contain no fish oils and little to no aerobic bacteria. Fresh fish parts can be used, but because of offensive odors, it should composted separately with browns like sawdust first before adding to the tea brew. NOTE: For those organic gardeners who prefer vegetarian soil amendments, you can skip the fishy ingredients, it's not necessary. There is plenty of NPK in alfalfa meal and other grains that you can use. To borrow the quote from GW member and composting expert David Hall: "Chemical fertilizers rely on an assumption that plants only need three elements to survive and thrive. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are those three. This is the equivalent of saying that we need protein, fat, and sugar to live. While this may be mostly true, pure protein, pure fat, and pure sugar do nothing to supply the vitamins, minerals, and diverse supply of bacteria and fungi in our diets. Here is a list of a dozen things that you can do with organically fed soil that cannot be achieved with conventional chemical feeding. 1. Decompose plant residues and manure to humus. 2. Retain nutrients in the form of stable humus. 3. Combine nitrogen and carbon to prevent nutrient loss. 4. Suppress fungus and bacterial diseases. 5. Produce plant growth regulators. 6. Develop soil structure, tilth, and water penetration/retention. 7. Clean up chemical residues. 8. Shift soil pH to neutral and keep it there. 9. Search out and retrieve nutrients in distant parts of the soil. 10. Decompose thatch and keep it from returning. 11. Control nitrogen supply to the plants according to need. 12. Pull minerals out of inorganic soil components for plants. Soil microbes need sugar and protein to thrive. When you apply synthetic ferts, none of the things on this list gets done. The microbes normally get sugar from plant roots. Protein in nature comes from dead insects, plants, and animals. The organic gardener applies protein artificially in the form or organic fertilizers. It is usually in the form of a ground up meal made from plants and animals to try to replicate the natural process." And now, for those of you who haven't READ the recipe, it does list the reasons why they call for certain things in the recipe: Let's assume a 5 gallon tea recipe for our example: 1. Add 1/2 bucket of finished hot compost. This supplies most of the beneficial aerobic microbes and soluble nutrients. Some people use slightly immature aerobic compost because it has more fresh nitrogen in it, but less microbes than finished hot compost. 2. Use 2-3 tblsp molasses, brown sugar, or corn syrup. This feeds and breeds the aerobic bacteria. Sugar products are mostly carbon which is what the microherd eat quickly. Add about 1-2 more tblsp of molasses for every 3 days of aerobic brewing to make sure the sugar is digested before touching the soil at application time, and to guarantee that the aerobic bacteria population stays strong throughout the brewing process. Molasses also contains sulfur which is a mild natural fungicide. Molasses is also a great natural deodorizer for fishy teas. For a more fungal tea don't add too much simple sugar or molasses to your aerobic teas. Use more complex sugars, starches and carbohydrates like in seaweed, rotten fruit, soy sauce, or other fungal foods. 3. Add 1-2 cans of mackerel, sardines, or other canned fish. I covered this above. (NOTE: If you use canned fish products, you may want to let it decompose mixed with some finished compost, good garden soil, etc. in a separate closeable container for a few days before using. Since most canned meat products contain preservatives, this will guarantee that the good microbes in the tea will not be killed off or harmed in brew making.) 4. Add 1 pack fresh seaweed. Supplies all extra trace elements. Seaweed can contain about 60 trace elements and lots of plant growth hormones. Seaweed is a beneficial fungal food source for soil microbes. Liquifying the seaweed makes it dissolve even faster. 5. Add 1-2 cups of alfalfa meal, corn meal, cattle feed, horse feed, catfish or pond fish feed. Supplies extra proteins and bacteria. Corn meal is a natural fungicide and supplies food for beneficial fungi in the soil. Notice how alfalfa is NOT the main ingredient here? 6. Add rotten fruit for extra fungal foods. Add green weeds to supply extra bacterial foods to the tea. 7. Good ole garden soil is an excellent free biostimulant. Garden soil is full of beneficial aerobic bacteria, fungi, and other great microbes. Some people make a great microbial tea just out of soil. Forest soil is usually higher in beneficial fungi than rich garden soil. 8. Fill the rest of the container with rainwater, compost tea, or plain de-chlorinated water to almost the top of bucket. You can make good "rain water" from tap water by adding a little Tang (citrus acid) to the water mix before brewing. Urine water is also an excellent organic nitrogen source for teas (up to 45% N). 9. Some people like to add 1-2 tblsp of apple cider vinegar to add about 30 extra trace minerals and to add the little acidicity that is present in commercial fish emulsions. Many fish emulsions contain up to 5% sulfuric acid to help it preserve on the shelf and add needed sulfur to the soil. You can add extra magnesium and sulfur by adding 1-2 tblsp of Epsom salt to the tea. 10. Apply the air pump to the tea. Technically even in un-aerated teas there is still some aerobic action taking place for several days. All fungi is aerobic. Some bacteria are totally aerobic, some bacteria are totally anaerobic, and some bacteria can act both aerobic or anerobic based on the soil or tea environment. Un-aerated teas can continue to keep alive some aerobic or aerobic/anaerobic microbes, for up to 10 days in a watery solution. After 10 days, the whole un-aerated tea will contain only anerobic microbes. You can expect different microbial population levels in your tea based on weather, climate, temperature, seasons, etc. In the summertime you can expect your teas to brew faster and get to your optimal microbial levels faster than in cooler fall weather. Also tea odors, color, and foaminess on top of the tea, will vary based on temperatures too." And where oh where does it say to add soy sauce??? Most importantly, Pappu, have you used any yet? It's not gonna smell any prettier, the longer you wait!
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: apple20 Z6 IN (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 8:26
As a newbie with rose obsession/addiction, I think ya'll have just scared me straight! Reading these posts is the equivalent of seeing a junkie shoot up in a back alley. I know where I'm headed if I continue down this path of "destruction." Lucky for me I have an acre and a half with close neighbors only on one side and they are pc gamers who rarely venture out into the light of day. If I do decide to brew this mess in the future it will be far, far away from the house.
It DOES say to use soy sauce!
� Posted by: lilaclily z5IL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 8:29
Oh, I see where it says soy sauce, well now, I stand corrected. "For a more fungal tea don't add too much simple sugar or molasses to your aerobic teas. Use more complex sugars, starches and carbohydrates like in seaweed, rotten fruit, soy sauce, or other fungal foods. Still sounds like a marinade for the catfish filet to me. See, even I can disagree with the recipe!
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: smom40 5MO (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 10:20
I think what put me back on my heels was three things. One, the amount of the material, threatening to take over the garage like The Blob. If the lid 'moved', that alone would cause me concern. Less intimidating if the can was only half full... Two, anerobic micro in that area is a bit rusty but doesn't fermentation produce alcohol? Not knowing how concentrated it is, concerned me. I was guessing that it can't be that concentrated given the short time of decomposition and the shear volume of the liquid? Third, the unknown bacteria activity in the liquid. Some bacteria is good, some bacteria is bad. Oftentimes it's dependent upon what is going into the bucket in the first place. But it seems like one large bacterial medium. And it's all guesswork as to what is inside because it isn't being cultured. Regular composting, especially hot compost, makes sense because it's naturally heated by the bacterial activity and in theory, kills off nasty pathogens that might be inside. But a bucket full of goo, sitting in a warm temperature garage, seems like the perfect medium for growing cooties. And if you don't know what they are... I can see myself trying this, but not in an intimidating volume like the OP described to see what the results were. Putting organics into the soil just makes sense. It's like the difference between eating food and taking a multivitamin to me. Plants in their natural state drop organic material and feed the soil. Soil feeds the plants... But I would also say that if anyone was doing this, disposable gloves would definitely be in order. I would be as concerned with this as I would be with dealing with raw manure..especially if the skin on the person's hands were not intact. A bug that might be good in the dirt might be bad in a person, kwim...As long as bugs stay where they're meant to stay, it's all good. I know that I might sound like I'm quibbling here, and it's entirely possible that there is nothing to worry about, however, I have a great respect for microorganisms and also know that one Microbiology class has can ruin you for the rest of your life. In human beings, I've seen bugs beaten and I've seen bugs win. I look at them as something to be respected. Btw, I really wanted to get seriously into composting this for the reasons that lilly described, but unfortunately I have a HOA that requires that I submit a plan for my composter and this might take until the end of time. :p
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: GaelicGardener z6 RI ( on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 10:39
I live in an urban neighborhood where our houses are REALLY close together -- a car-wide driveway separates the house on either side. And my garden and garage/garden shed are only about 10 feet from my backdoor and bedroom window - so I'm not going to mess with fermenting fish heads! This is Providence -- mafia-central -- someone will call the cops thinking that someone is "sleeping with the fishes" in my backyard! I bought some stuff on QVC called Spray and Grow, which is supposed to be Vitamins for plants. Did I waste my money and time? Can a spray do any of the things listed above for nutrients?
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pappu z5 IL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 11:24
It was not dealt with this weekend because I was really busy at work. I am taking off on Tuesday (did I mention that I have a huge amount to play with?) to deal with this frothy, gassy glob in my backyard. We havent dared to open the patio doors and I can see flies buzzing above it to share the spoils. It is kinda fascinating watching it, through the glass doors, as it froths and moves. Do you think the gasses are affecting my brain?
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pappu z5 IL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 12:09
Lilaclily, how do you make 'urine water'? Should I *ee in it? LOL! I am cracking up, this is too offence meant and apologies for my bad manners, but the thought is just side-burstingly funny. I might just end up doing it, just to see DWs reaction!
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Ginni77 z 5 Illinois (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 12:29
smom, you said **doesn't fermentation produce alcohol** Pappu, does this mean that you're making moonshine??? LMBO here!!! Sorry, but I couldn't resist! I can't wait to hear how you deal with this mess. Ginni
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Subrosa PNW8(7)BCCanada (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 12:34
I'm still curious about the soy sauce - perhaps it should read "soy meal".
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: roseleaf 7SE (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 12:50
I believe the concoction (minus the soy sauce) you�ve made is excellent for lots of plants, but obviously not many (include you) can handle it, even if you live in the middle of 100 acre farm. For the tea, I do similar to what many have said earlier, to be specific: alfalfa + Epsom salt (if needed) + kelp meal. I also spread dry fishmeal around the base of the bushes, and take the roses to tea afterward. And we�re all very happy.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: lilaclily z5IL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 12:55
Pappu, not to be overly gross, but some years ago, DH would pick on a plant or rose that I happened to be in love with and threaten to let the dog pee on it. Well, once I read up that pee is actually good for plants (in small doses of course), I said, "go ahead honey, let the dog go", he couldn't use that threat any more. Now he just waggles the pruners threateningly.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Cactus_joe 7b (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 13:05
To stop the intense ferment, add a whole bunch of undiluted bleach to it. Or better still, if you can get whole of those pucks of chlorine, throw some of those in it. What you do after that ......................well, I don't know!
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: jenswrens z6 NJ & z4 MN (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 13:39
Just curious...Is the odor of all of these different teas offensive enough to keep the deer away from your plants for a few days after you spread it?
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: spongelingo z7OKC (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 13:42
Pappu, I totally understand your situation and I know exactly how you feel now. I made a mistake once and I learned from there. Last year, 1st time dealing with the tea thing, I soaked 25bl of Alfalfa pellets in a 55gal barrel of water (just water, nothing else.) I planned to apply the tea to the roses on the 4th day. But the rain started flooding my whole garden day and night for almost 5 days. By the time I was ready to apply the tea, it was the 14th day, and OMG, it was a serious, serious odor filling the air and I was so frustrated trying to figure out what to do with the whole stinking thing and I finally decided to feed all the tea to my roses and delute the left over stuff in the barrel with more water hoping that the smell would be gone so I could spread them on my lawn. After spreading out the left over stuff, the smell was unbelievably stick. I was so scared that my neighbors were going to call the cops over. I was praying all day long for the smell to be gone quicker and it lasted for 3days. From there on, I swear to myself that I will never brew any Alfalfa tea for more than 4 days regardless to what outside conditions are. Even there are tornado here in Oklahoma, I will have to get rid of the tea within 4 days time frame. So, if decide to spread them out, be prepare to deal with your neighbors and the cops (hopefully not that bad)phisically and mentally. good luck to you and never do it again ok.:)) SPO
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: smom40 5MO (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 14:20
Quote "It is kinda fascinating watching it, through the glass doors, as it froths and moves." How on earth can you sleep at night? I'm so sorry but you do you have the ability to post a picture of this...thing? If this thread has done nothing else at all for me, it's cemented a commitment in my brain to never, ever use anything bigger than a five gallon bucket with a lid and do it in HALF batches in case that it...grows. But if the damn stuff makes one false move, it's getting flushed. *eyes buggin* and lmao
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Patricia43 z8 AL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 14:33
I once made great home-made cakes, but I quit a few years ago when I realized the ladies from Chilton make them as well as I did and sell them cheaper than I can make them. I then quit making them and started buying them, after leaving the eggs out of the cake one day and wondering why just because I had 20 people in my house I might have omitted one small step. Did you ever go through that step in the fish where it said "decompose in sawdust" before using? Or did you just skip that part and go right for the gusto? It is important to follow each step very, very carefully and keep focused, the reason I no longer make home-made cakes.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pappu z5 IL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 14:59
Patricia43, I admit to skipping the 'decompose in sawdust' step. But, it's kinda strange that you can add canned fish directly but need to decompost fresh fish. Canned meat usually has preservatives and would'nt you think that it would be difficult for the bacteria to break these down? Maybe, the whole point is to have chunks of tuna floating around? Whatever, I am so done with fish and alfalfa tea... spongelingo, you give me no hope... lilaclily, how exactly does one make 'Urine water'? LOL!
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: harryshoe z6easternPA (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 15:06
I was only kidding when I suggested you drink it. However, after reading this thread, I suspect that maybe more than one of you may have been nippin'.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: WkendWarrior z6/7LI-NY (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 15:09
i am fascinated by this thread. i can't wait to read tomorrow's installment, if the Brew From Hell lets you live thru the night. og, you're brave. If I had a breathing barrel of ferment going on like that, I think I would just quietly move away...maybe to Ireland.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: smom40 5MO (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 17:13
I hope that he has a respirator!
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: spongelingo z7OKC (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 17:36
pappu, I forgot to give you my advice on the last follow up. If I were you, I would use duct tape like someone already mentioned and shield the stinking thing off real good and haul the stinking thing to an open field and dump it there. You might get in trouble if the dump truck spill the sinking thing all over the neighborhood.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: chescobob z6b SEPA (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 18:11
Remember the original Godzilla movie and then Swamp Thing? I'm wondering. Do you think the fish will come back as Fishzilla with immense teeth, fins, etc.? Maybe that is why the brew is moving.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: txkat Z7BNC (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 18:56
I have no idea why, but this entire thread makes laugh so hard I could pee....maybe I should squat near my ailing Remember Me. hmm....
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pappu z5 IL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 19:07
txkat, don't waste your pee...add it to the tea!
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: AndreaGeorgia z7 NC (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 19:10
I'm sure they will. Followed by a bunch of kittie and doggie zombies. I can't believe that this, forgive me, total tea disaster garbage, is still defended here, with way too many words anyway, and scaring everyone away who hasn't tried it. That's actually a bit sad. Well, and then again it's pretty funny (as long as I don't have to deal with that garbage, haha). Btw, John/Pleasegrow gave a good recommendation re. the use of additives. Pappu, see if you can borrow a gas mask for whatever you're trying to do with this horrific mess, and don't let your pets or anyone else near it if you have any. And before you're tempted by anymore wacky black magic advice, please use your commonsense and check back with the forum here, ok? Andrea
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pappu z5 IL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 20:05
Andrea, Lilaclily, I apologise, but my intention is not to run down any organic methods. The tea composting link actually makes a lot of sense when you think about it. totally my mess up, added way too much alfalfa, brown sugar, raw fish and did not follow the many forumers pointed out, some alfalfa in water for 4 days will about do it and I hope I am not discouraging anyone from making tea. I am not planning to waste my tea and will use it tomorrow (I took a day off, so I can spread it around when the neighbors are all at work!)and my apologies for the poor taste *ee posts!
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Patricia43 z8 AL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 20:31
I think because I am so intrigued by all this I will make the recipe the Captain Compost guy from Alabama has recommended. I might need a week off from work just to recuperate, but I am from Missouri (no, not, I am hard-headed). I am going to try it. Let me get the ingredients together, put it all in and delegate the lid opening to my husband.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: BriansMama z5 central MA (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 20:52
It's been fun to read through this and wonder just which posts are serious and which are somewhat tongue in cheek. Just now I apparently laughed out loud - DH said "you're chuckling", so I had to explain why. Not that he really gets it. 8*) Like WkendWarrior, I can't wait to read the next installment - perhaps the denoument. -Amy.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Rilie Z5a NB, Can (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 20:59
Good luck tomorrow Pappu. May the force be with you, and the weather on your side.... I'm not sure what to say, there's no advice left to be given. LOL Make sure you let us know how you make out asap.... you have a whole forum on pins and needles.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: altoraMA 5/6 MA (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 21:13
whatever you do, don't add bleach AND urine.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: lilaclily z5IL (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 21:47
All this compost tea talk made me start a batch today.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: AndreaGeorgia z7 NC (My Page) on Mon, Jun 6, 05 at 23:36
Hey Pappu, no reason for you to apologize! Next time, follow the simple ARS recipe and you and your neighbors will be safe. Good luck with the bio hazmat removal! Andrea
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Cactus_joe 7b (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 1:59
I would prefer to skip the brewing part and put the alfalfa straight into the soil, where it belongs. In a neighbourhood where the "stink" from my Fritillaria imperialis caused some no-so-nice comments from passers-by, the last thing I need is a stinking, fermenting mess. Hey, I have got an idea - we could experiment coming up with new life forms with the famous "Pappu's Brew"!
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: veilchen 5b s. Maine (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 7:44
hoo boy. I would throw down my garden gloves and declare a surrender. Then call a HAZMAT team to come save me and my yard. Offer to reimburse them for their trouble, like how sometimes the rangers charge unprepared lost hikers for the helicopter rescue fees.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: altoraMA 5/6 MA (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 8:58
anyone know if pappu is still alive? I wish I lived in IL so I could wait for breaking news....If we don't hear by 11:00 someone should go there and see if everything is ok.. alida growing more worried by the minute...
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Brother_Cadfael z5 seWI (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 9:30
altorMA, Just look to the southwest, if you see a green cloud, you'll know there's trouble!:) BC:)
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Carla17 z7b NC (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 9:36
Pappu, I only read your post so far and I am laughing. Thank you so much for the laugh. They don't come often these days. Carla
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: bojo96 z5 IL (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 9:50
I live in Illinois and there's not a chance in hades you are going to get me to go check on him. If this stuff has gotten him (and probably everyone else in a 50 mile radius) why sacrifice myself? LOL Normally, I'm a pretty tough person and not much scares me (OK OK spiders do) but when u have gallons and gallons of moving, boiling, stinking fluid that your just not quite sure of..I have a problem. LOL I will send the rescue squad...won't tell em what's going on, but will make sure they put on biohazard suits. Sorry Pappu...that's the best I can do for u.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: smom40 5MO (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 10:19
Call from a payphone and they won't even know that it's you. Viya con Dios, pappu.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: altoraMA 5/6 MA (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 10:24
i'm just curious, i wonder which roses he has growing?
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: bojo96 z5 IL (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 10:32
OMG...for some reason just had a picture of a GIANT fish head reaching out of the vat and snatching pappu..all that was seen was his legs kicking as he was drug into the boiling mess. smom...great idea..payphone...cept I would have to drive about 15 miles to get to one and don't know which way pappu is from me. Don't want to take the chance I've gotten 15 miles closer to this stuff. :) j/k pappu..hope this stuff gives you the best roses ever.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: WkendWarrior z6/7LI-NY (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 11:05
i'm getting worried... now i see the big fish head grabbing pappu, too. pleeze check in when you can! ww
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: lilaclily z5IL (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 12:23
Didn't see a mushroom cloud this morning as I faced south, so Pappu must be ok. Pappu!! Are ya dealing with it now as we type?
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: dragonden 6a ON CAN (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 16:13
Lol I made pretty much the same recipe as Pappu did in Late April, except I used canned Tuna (I did let it rot/compost seperately for a few days before adding it to the mix). Our weather was very cool here for most of May so it took about a week and a half before I started seeing froth on the top of the mix. Pappu doesn't mention whether he/she aerated the mix or stirred it daily ... I stirred mine at least twice a day, and I added a little extra molasses (every three to five days) to help with fermentation and to keep the stink down. My witches brew didn't stink too bad. yeah it was unpleasant ... kind of a vomit smell but only faintly ... it really wasn't that bad. Mind you- I AM a nurse so I can take pretty stinky smells. LOL I diluted the mix with water when I used it and soil drenched the garden with it. Then I watered the garden. The garden smelled when I put the mix down but after watering the smell really decreased and was gone the next day. I added more water to that first batch and let it brew again and used it about two weeks later. Since then I've added more alfalfa to the batch (6 cups), espsom salts (1 cup), iron green (4 capful) and have kept it going- stirring daily, diluting it with water and dosing my plants approx every two weeks. Everything is growing wonderfully. Roses have lots of basal breaks, covered with buds (aphids and little flies with wings too!) and the perennials are growing well too. I'm very happy with the results. Oh, I also experimented with using yeast (regular cooking yeast) in the recipe. I've seen mention of people using superthrive and I think one of the main ingredients of superthrive is vitamin B1 (thiamine) which is also found in regular yeast. So ... I made a cup of yeast mixture- 1 cup warm water, 1 1/2 tsp sugar, 1 tbsp yeast and let it froth, then added it to the tea. Seems to have worked. Any thoughts on using yeast instead of superthrive? I also found a way to get around the neighbours with the smell. Most of my neighbours are older and retired, so they are home all day and unless I pour the brew on my garden late at night (have done that) I can't get away with out someone smelling the mix and wondering what the heck I'm up to. My neighbours all have gardens. They have seen how well my garden has been doing since spring began (literally since the end of March my garden has been green and growing better than ever) so i offered to pour some of my special mix on their gardens and they love it too and there are no complaints about the smell. :) This is my first year making alfalfa (plus plus plus) tea. In past years I've just added some pellets around the roses and I got good results with that but the tea is much better. My husband says I'm give the roses steroids and I think he's right. :)
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Twinkle 7 GA (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 16:52
Pappu, please tell how you are getting rid of that mess! I have some alfalfa tea that I sorta forgot about. It is several weeks old right now, and I am afraid to open the lid. Very afraid.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Bean_counter_z4 Zone 4, Rkfd,IL (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 16:58
Everyone waiting for the latest installment of pappu's exciting saga. This could go any one of three ways, as I see it. 1. Pappu reports back and says the roses have developed super-botanical powers and have given him a list of thier demands. 2. There is a smoking hole somewhere in IL where the stuff ate thru the bottom of the trash can. 3. The roses are now dead along with the grass and trees, and all the paint is gone of one side of pappu's house. Actually, there was a thread similar to this a year or so ago. Someone described the tea as smelling like a wino with a fish in his pocket that crawled into a hole and died. Who would have thought fertilizer could be so funny?
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: AndreaGeorgia z7 NC (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 17:16
Anyone willing to call the local ER's?
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: chescobob z6b SEPA (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 17:42
Here is something to think about. In about a week, what if pappu reports that the roses have grown very well, there are new basals everywhere, and the new blooms are all 8 inches across with the most incredibly good fragrance? There could be a run on catfish filets. I have not heard of any reports on CNN about Fishzilla heading for Chicago. Geez, I can picture a rubbery looking Fishzilla walking in from Lake Michagan, crossing Lakeshore Drive, and strutting down Michigan Avenue.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: altoraMA 5/6 MA (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 19:22
Hmm. 7:20 pm and still no word? I'm dying to know what happened! and a little worried! alida
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: smom40 5MO (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 19:46
I've been waiting all day for this...
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Rilie Z5a NB, Can (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 20:43
If the tea didn't get him, maybe the neighbors did......
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: AndreaGeorgia z7 NC (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 20:55
Or he's making the big bucks now by selling this potent drug to the local rose junkies. Let's hope that they or their roses won't OD. Andrea
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: rokkis_mom z7 Atlanta (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 21:11
Will this thread disappear when it hits 100 posts? That will be so sad. I think Pappu better post on a new thread to let us know he's ok. Giant, lurking fishheads be darned... if he accidentally spilled the stuff and now has beautiful, huge, lush roses... we're all gonna wish we had cut and pasted the recipe somewhere.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: MoRoseAz z9/Phoenix (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 21:16
Pappu? Did Tommy TeaMix get up and walk out on his own? Can this stuff cause groundwater contamination? Love Canal? Did the recipe call for any ol' canned tuna in oil or water or did it have to be solid white albacore? Maybe Tommy TeaMix is responsible for that other post "What's under Maggie?".
RE: A big stinking mess! Revisited
� Posted by: rokkis_mom z7 Atlanta (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 21:25
Oh, my gosh! Do you think maybe it's migrating? Like the Japanese Beetles? How long do you think we have? I've never seen this one in my disaster preparedness handbook.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: bojo96 z5 IL (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 22:16
Just came in from doing a yard stroll with DH. As we near the front of the yard to check out the first Fragrant Plum ambulance goes by..lights on, no siren heading back towards the hospital 20 min. away. Nahhhhhhhhhhhh couldn't be pappu...could it? pappu!!!!!!!!! tell us how it went....your making us nervous and as rose growers we have enought to freak about! LOL
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: Ginni77 z 5 Illinois (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 22:30
Gee, I thought I'd sign in here and see how Naveed got rid of the BIG MESS! And no post from him. Pappu, are you there??? We're really anxious to hear what happened! Ginni
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: pappu z5 IL (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 22:32
Gosh! That's a lot of moral support ! It's dealt with, it's gone, it's back to the ground it came from. It took all day and I am pooped to even type, but I will post my seems that it is now a matter of national security.. I had latex gloves on, a mask and I almost puked in the first 5 minutes, but strangely, I could not smell it after about 10 min, the stench probably burned all the nasal neurons. this is what I did with it....a big mug of the 'mother' tea (more like sludge) in a 5 gallon bucket, fill the bucket with water and empty it around a rose bush....After it was down to half, I filled it with water and directly spread it around the bushes. I have about 100 roses now (started May 04 with 1, and now thanks to y'all I have no social life and a neurotic wreck, staring at planted bareroots everyday, willing them to sprout leaves). Every plant in the garden got this stuff, including the petunias. I am philosophical about this, either everything dies or I have the 'honey I shrunk the kids' kinda yard. It was 90's today and by late afternoon, I was dizzy and felt sick, but it was finally done, the bottom scraped and everything washed and at 5 p.m, I am in the house, all doors and windows locked to keep the smell out and waiting for the police to knock anytime now.
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: decobug Z6a Idaho SW (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 22:50
I'm proud of you! You are one step closer to being a 'rosarian'... :)
RE: A big stinking mess! Help!
� Posted by: debrazone9socal z9losangeles (My Page) on Tue, Jun 7, 05 at 23:27
Pappu, you are da bomb!!!
Post a Follow-Up
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum.
If you are a member, please log in.
If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Roses Forum


clipped on: 09.16.2014 at 08:21 pm    last updated on: 09.16.2014 at 08:22 pm

RE: another Newbie question... pistachio (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: Natsu on 03.11.2012 at 10:00 pm in Hydrangea Forum

Hortensia Pistachio� 'Horwack' aka Hydrangea macrophylla Saxon® `Schloss Wackerbarth in europe

These are the best photoshop free pics around.They have these plants in europe for years before they reach us. The pics are normally pretty true compared to the U.S. release hype.

The hortensia Pistachio ™ 'Horwack' (Hydrangea Pistachio ™ 'Horwack')

Ball launches in 2012 a "new generation" of hydrangeas, with new colour combinations. A very exciting collection. As such, the hydrangea large leaf 'Pistachio' gives a quite original floral composition: large umbels of 12 cm (5 inches) in diameter consisting of scarlet red flowers shades of green, pink, purple and chartreux... resembling the color of pistachio, what indeed evokes the name of the cultivar. Bonus, the ground of flowers is variable, which adds a note joking its flowering. It blooms on old wood and refleurit on new wood. This shrub may be between 80 to 120 cm (32 to 48 inches) in height and width can vary between 1-1.5 m (3-5 ft). It forms a very compact mound of dark green leaves.

As its hardiness is better than several other hydrangeas big-leaf, flowering is easier than traditional cultivars in northern regions. This cultivar withstand temperatures up to - 29 ° C. It must give a soil with lots of organic matter, well-drained slightly acid. Can cultivate the semi-shade or full sun.

acidic soil

Lime soil


clipped on: 09.07.2014 at 09:17 am    last updated on: 09.07.2014 at 09:17 am

RE: Curb appeal help (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: JAWRIG2292 on 09.05.2014 at 12:00 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Here is an update to the garage curb appeal. These faux windows and décor from coach house accents helped. Now I'll work on the entry way when I figure out how to approach it.


clipped on: 09.05.2014 at 01:40 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2014 at 01:40 pm

RE: So dissapointed with my paint color choice (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: macybaby on 02.15.2012 at 09:06 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Have you put on two coats? I don't even think about if I like the color until I've got the second coat on. I've not found a paint I think is OK with only one coat. I think it has more to do with sheen than color.

I have had many rooms that didn't look quite right until after I put on the second coat.

I pay a lot of attention to the colors that get mixed into the paint. I really did not want any red or blue undertones and found four swatches that looked almost identical. Then I looked at the forumla and was able to pick the exact one based on that - one had a hint of blue, one had a hint of red, one a hint of green and one a hint of black. I went with the one with black. It's a blond/beige color. Though the chips looked very similar, I expect each one would have a slightly different undertone once on the walls.

I also found looking at the other colors in the "family" helped tell if the color was right - or if the darker colors move to a shade I don't like.


clipped on: 09.05.2014 at 11:37 am    last updated on: 09.05.2014 at 11:37 am

RE: New Roof- Need more ventilation (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: handymac on 04.14.2014 at 06:03 pm in Home Repair Forum

You got the best advice from several knowledgeable folks.

Adding turbines or passive vents when gable vents are used reduces the efficiency of either or both. Example, the turbines allow hot air to be exhausted---the replacement air has to come into the attic from somewhere---it will take the path of least resistance and come in the gable vents. That means the majority of the air in the attic is static--very little actual ventilation.

Adding a ridge vent when the roof is stripped to sheathing is usually less expensive than adding three or four turbines or six to eight passive vents.

Cutting soffit vents is cheap, Adding grills is cheap. Only other expense is sealing the gable vents.

The expense is encountered if bridging under the sheathing is necessary---and that could be a part of the later on insulation project.

The ridge vent is install and forget---no moving parts, works on natures rules(hot air rises), and is vastly more efficient that turbines or passive vents. And the soffit vents force the incoming air to enter at the base of the attic---and moving most of the air ---improving ventilation.

You asked for the best opinion---and got the best option from several folks.

You could get a ridge vent(materials) for about $150-$200. Labor is barely a total of 2 hours. Three good turbines will cost from $150-$175) and the same labor.


clipped on: 09.03.2014 at 03:10 pm    last updated on: 09.03.2014 at 03:10 pm

RE: New Roof- Need more ventilation (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: snidely on 04.15.2014 at 01:43 pm in Home Repair Forum

fairfield, in many jurisdictions, getting a new roof requires a permit, and many building codes specify how much ventilation is required per square foot. You'll certainly have a choice as to which ventilation type is used, but not IF or how much.

saltidawg, what Mayaa was trying to say was a preference if the option for homeowner to think for remolding, advice has timing. Consequences appear.


clipped on: 09.03.2014 at 03:08 pm    last updated on: 09.03.2014 at 03:09 pm

Cedar Roof --- replace or restore

posted by: nosoccermom on 10.28.2013 at 11:59 am in Home Repair Forum

I have a cedar roof that's about 20 years old. I had it inspected and was told that it needs to be replaced because it's too far deteriorated.
Those in the know, could you have a look and let me know what you think? Can the roof be repaired?
 photo roof_zpsc9675657.png

If not, replacing with cedar would be twice the price of asphalt, so I don't think we'll go for that.
The company suggested Certainteed Landmark Composite. Any feedback on that tile?


clipped on: 09.03.2014 at 03:05 pm    last updated on: 09.03.2014 at 03:05 pm

RE: Defective CertainTeed roof shingles/shangles (Follow-Up #121)

posted by: Sharon Haas (Guest) on 06.25.2009 at 06:48 pm in Home Repair Forum

My home owners clearly states that they are not respnsible for defective materials used in the remodeling or building of the home or for any damages caused as a result of the defective materials failing.
Check your policy but I bet they are pretty much all written that way.


clipped on: 09.03.2014 at 02:53 pm    last updated on: 09.03.2014 at 02:54 pm

BeachhouseMBRsuite (v. long, grab drink)

posted by: mtnrdredux on 09.03.2014 at 01:13 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

We are so happy with this room, we never want to leave it. It needs some touches, mostly artwork (again! but in this case I think I have some things i can use here). I also have to think about WT for the french doors, and I am waiting on crinkled muslin (thanks again AnnieD!) to drape the bed.

My starting point for the room was the Madeline Weinrib rug, and a bed I already had. I posted a lot on choosing nightstands (Anthro) and pendants (Layla Grace), both of which are ultra-girly. I really wanted mirrors over the nightstands (another long post) but the electrician has switches in the way, and I'm ok with that.

The room was created by combining two existing BR with one of the hall baths and part of the hallway, as well as replacing windows w french doors and adding a deck. We also stole 2 feet that had been occupied by closets, (one entered from a 3rd BR and one entered from the center BR; see wavy line to right of bedin new layout).

Most GW'ers were against the changes this required to the facade. After careful consideration we went ahead and it was totally, totally, the right thing to do. The deck off of our MBR is a MUST for the light, and views, sound and scent of the ocean. It totally makes the room. I am fine with the resulting facade (which btw is natural cedar and will age to grey). Pal had a great suggestion with round windows flanking the deck doors, which we may do. I also thank Pal for encouraging me to go ahead with the facade changes for the overwhelming functional benefits.

I chose an unconventional layout to minimize disruption and cost, and give us a lot of bathroom/dressing room space, plus a private w/c and w/d. I used a vintage tub, and 3 vintage sinks. Very happy with the layout, which many nixed for the long long long trip to the W/C. We are happy with it.

(disclaimer; ipad photos; can't find my camera)

BEFORE layout; no real MBR, both baths were hall baths (one tiny and decrepit), no outdoor space.

 photo Screenshot2014-09-03at114904AM_zps33127e40.png

Exterior before:
 photo Screenshot2013-08-29at90511PM_zps8da779a5.png

Exterior after (will age to grey), need to take one from the same perspective:
 photo IMG_0451_zps0e4b4623.jpg

Layout after (MBR suite only)
 photo Screenshot2013-11-27at22538PM_zps9490582c.png

"MBR" before
 photo MBR.jpg

MBR moodboard:
 photo Screenshot2014-03-09at82938PM_zps9e173463.png

MBR after:
 photo IMG_0425_zps235de4c1.jpg

 photo IMG_0429_zps6b3bcecb.jpg

 photo IMG_0298_zpsec4a80b3.jpg

MBR "vestibule"... the entry to the MBR is via what was a hall closet. I put shelves in there, and I really like the detail. To be styled.

 photo IMG_0331_zps0a237762.jpg

 photo IMG_0329_zps37547432.jpg

MBA moodboard:
 photo Screenshot2014-04-30at74036PM_zps40e0abe4.png

After MBA, two rooms (one with shower and toilet and folding RR sink, see last photo)
 photo IMG_0307_zpsf99f0a12.jpg

 photo IMG_0306_zpsa5531d0b.jpg

"MBA" before (excuse mess):
 photo DSC03136.jpg

 photo IMG_0313_zps008a1800.jpg


clipped on: 09.03.2014 at 02:04 pm    last updated on: 09.03.2014 at 02:05 pm

RE: BeachhouseMBRsuite (v. long, grab drink) (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: vasue on 09.03.2014 at 02:03 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Fabulous - can certainly see why you never want to leave! Previously unaware of your remodeling thread, must say the changes to the exterior were done so artfully, truly can't tell it wasn't always that way. Such a thoughtful layout, well done.

Curious if the floors are original & if refinished, how did you seal the bathroom floor? The train pull-down sink near the shower is a stroke of genius. Great use of updating by backdating the bath fixtures to classic comfort. Will have to backtrack through your threads to see the evolution that led to this serenity.

Standing ovation, pop the champagne!


clipped on: 09.03.2014 at 02:04 pm    last updated on: 09.03.2014 at 02:04 pm

RE: Did I mount this curtain rod too high? (Follow-Up #36)

posted by: vasue on 09.03.2014 at 12:56 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Pretty room! How about covering that stretch of wall above the window with a piece of lace? The wall color would show behind the lace & unite the window treatment. Depending on the drop between the rod & the window molding, could simply drape the lace over the top of the existing curtains & the rod, pinning in place behind with those little brass safety pins. If you sew, you could make two buttonholes in the back of the lace's rod pocket where the lace fills the gap in the curtains so the lace could be slipped onto the rod there, and sew the ends straight across the top of the side curtains, so it would hang from them rather than directly from the rod. Even by hand, a simple job. I'd want the center lace to be nearly straight on the rod, rather than ruched, so the pattern would show clearly, with the drop just touching the top of the window framing or slightly below. It would gather on top of the side curtains with them if sewn on. If just framing the rod to window by folding it over the rod & curtains & pinning, I'd keep it straight or just slightly gathered for a tailored look. Would also solve the transparency of the side curtains against the top of the wall by covering it along with the rod itself. Sort of a soft version of a valance box.

Searched "lace valance" looking for straight edge ones. The link is to a vintage yet new old stock, unused, Quaker Lace plain valance that may echo the bedspread design. These old Quaker Laces are mostly cotton (80% - with 20% poly so they can be machine washed on gentle with warm water & dried on low), so they have enough heft to do the job & hang well. Made my first curtains out of Quaker Lace tablecloths in this blend many moons ago, and still have them, so can verify their quality.

Anything to avoid changing out the rod or rehanging it is a good idea to my way of thinking! Think this would fit right in with the vintage with modern touches blend you have going & add subtle charm. A simple rectangular scarf of another less transparent material could also be used in the same way. but I think the soft graphic of the lace would be most appealing in your setting.

Here is a link that might be useful: Vintage Quaker Lace


clipped on: 09.03.2014 at 01:17 pm    last updated on: 09.03.2014 at 01:17 pm

RE: How are your Forever&Ever hydrangeas doing? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: vasue on 08.25.2014 at 04:58 pm in Hydrangea Forum

Al, love your pun "Forever & Ever to bloom"! Imagine that's no fun for you, but thanks for the chuckle.

F & E's new for me this year. After last Winter's dieback to roots of existing plants, hydrangeas with new & old wood blooming potential caught my attention in a Big Way. Not yet a fair trial as all still in pots (some graduated to larger ones) & only here since May, so preliminary reports from central Virginia in order of heaviest bloom:

Pistachio - bought as 3-gallons in bud & bloom with many wooded stems - very high flower count, cranking out new blooms continually while still holding the originals (no deadheading) on lengthening old & new growth branches at every node. Heat didn't slow it down, another crop of blooms opened a few days ago & more new buds swelling. Looks like a child's drawing of a flowering bush, covered in flowers.

Fantasia - bought as 1-gallon & shortly after two more 3-gallons all in bud & bloom.- not as loaded nor consistent as Pistachio, but regularly cycling out new blooms on new growth while keeping the originals. Even the younger plant keeps opening new blooms reliably.

Together - bought as 3-gallon in bud & bloom, kept its original flowers for 3 months till clipped all but one to dry & preserve & to see if doing so would prompt new flowers. One left still fresh & pretty & new buds appearing now 3 weeks later. This plant appears to have put most of its energy into growing considerably larger. Originally 18" high & wide, it's now 3x4', close to its projected mature size. Hoping next year it will concentrate on blooming as abundantly as it's grown! Like it so much, picked up 2 more gallons recently in bud & bloom before this one started showing new flower buds.

Blue Heaven - bought as 1-gallon in bud & bloom, this caught my eye for the various individual colors of each bloom - some pink, some blue, some lavender - in contrast to other examples with monotone blooms. Have wondered if it may have been mislabeled - time will tell. It grew quickly, soon potted up to 3-gallon where it's continued to grow luxuriantly. Like Together, its mature size is given as 4x4' or larger, and this one seems in an equal hurry to get there. It's proven the most sun-sensitive, as others have noted. Clipped its blooms same time as Togethers, to see if that would stimulate new blooms & since they were at a beautiful turquoise & slate blues stage that happily dried perfectly in a basket. Just this week showing new buds, so the potential for further bloom is there even in a young & rapidly growing example. Again, hoping it will settle down next season in the growth department & direct its focus into more abundant blooms.

(Keeping an eye out for Peace, originally bypassed as white for more colorful examples. Springwood & others report it pinks up nicely, which would be welcome here.)

Please strongly consider protecting the perimeter against future weed-whacker incidents! Roots of your previously mown hydrangeas should eventually put out new growth.

This post was edited by vasue on Mon, Aug 25, 14 at 17:04


clipped on: 08.25.2014 at 05:09 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2014 at 04:20 pm

RE: New York Times - Secret to happiness (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: vasue on 09.01.2014 at 04:07 pm in Roses Forum

Thanks, Henry, fascinating idea.


clipped on: 09.01.2014 at 04:08 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2014 at 04:08 pm

RE: Time between flushes, etc.? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: vasue on 09.01.2014 at 03:51 pm in Roses Forum

Sammy, believe you're right about snapping the blooms encouraging greater continuity. That's my style, but most enjoy roses in the garden rather than taking them for vases. Considering a cutting garden with roses so they could come inside with me without feeling I'm robbing the garden, lol. Buy roses for Winter vases, just seldom cut my own...

Susan, your Countess is breathtaking! HMF lists her as "mild fragrance". Is that code for "none"?

This post was edited by vasue on Mon, Sep 1, 14 at 15:53


clipped on: 09.01.2014 at 03:54 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2014 at 03:54 pm

Phlox paniculata

posted by: aftermidnight on 08.05.2014 at 01:30 pm in Perennials Forum

I know not favorites with some but I really like them :). I want to add a few more to the garden, so pictures please.
I have 'Mt. Fujiyama', 'Blue Paradise' (we think) and 'Purple Kiss', I did have more but over the years as I changed my garden beds around they were given away, it seems I have come full circle and want to add more, nice punches of color this time of year.
Here's my latest addition, Yes I know I thought I was finished buying for the summer but honestly I just went to buy a little plant of Greek Oregano and saw this :). I took a picture of the flower before cutting it back.
'Red Caribbean' who said pink and red don't look good together I think this one is a beauty.

This post was edited by aftermidnight on Wed, Aug 6, 14 at 1:26


clipped on: 09.01.2014 at 09:30 am    last updated on: 09.01.2014 at 09:31 am

RE: Advice about Roses and a Rose Trellis (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: vasue on 08.30.2014 at 05:23 pm in Roses Forum

Don Juan is a climbing rose that grows typically at least 10-12' tall & 8' wide. You're concerned that the Knockouts will eventually grow too big for the space, so just checking in with Don Juan's eventual size. Since you plan to train the long canes horizontally, the height will be reduced by adding to the width. Jackson & Perkins recommends planting 8' apart for solid coverage. ( ) Click on "plant description" at that link for further details. So I'm with kippy here that you wouldn't need more than 2 for your 15' fence.

Though you're thinking of trellis to space the roses away from the fence, consider the suggestions of boncrow & kippy for espaliering using the fence. Eyebolts of appropriate length can be screwed to the fence to hold horizontal runs of wire, or blocks of wood or whatever can be attached to the fence at right angles to project from it to hold shorter eyebolts for the same purpose. (And light to medium weight trellis can be attached in the same manner from the fence.) This is the simplest, least expensive & most unobtrusive method. Canes are lightly tied to the wires with soft material, as you probably saw in the videos, in a figure 8.

Check out kona's photos - 2nd & 3rd down on the left in the link below - to see how this has been done. There are only two runs of wire. While you're there, check out all the photos of this lovely rose & the ways it's been grown.

Here is a link that might be useful: Don Juan photos

This post was edited by vasue on Sat, Aug 30, 14 at 17:28


clipped on: 08.30.2014 at 05:30 pm    last updated on: 08.31.2014 at 07:41 pm

RE: SJHRG catalog question (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: vasue on 08.31.2014 at 05:41 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Way out of your climate zone, but grew Golden Wings in a Shenandoah Valley garden, where it flowered from Spring till late in Fall. Under References at HelpMeFind, found several reporting repeat to continuous bloom, as does Rogue Valley in the link below. Even Austin remarks on its "Excellent continuity of flowering" on his USA site. Maybe it's a deadheading & watering issue? Santa Fe Botanical Garden in NM notes it blooms from "mid-spring to late summer" there, and believe that's a semi-arid climate. It may receive supplemental watering, as they advise "deep watering every once in a while. Be sure to water it at the base or by drip irrigation".

Remember it as a charming rose, with great Autumn hips if the last crop of blooms aren't removed. Thinking of it now, there are several places in this garden where it would shine - thanks for the reminder!

Here is a link that might be useful: Golden Wings


clipped on: 08.31.2014 at 05:42 pm    last updated on: 08.31.2014 at 05:43 pm

RE: Time between flushes, etc.? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: vasue on 08.31.2014 at 12:18 pm in Roses Forum

Been rather a slow cycle year for bloom here this year, too. Suspect a result of the on-again off-again Spring (after unusual extended Winter cold) that delayed soil warming till nearly mid-June - a full six weeks later than the norm. Wonder if that crimped helpful soil organisms' growth, which in turn affected the roses & other plantlife?

Two roses that previously pumped out flowers continuously - by which I mean new buds beginning & others swelling at the same time blooms are opening, each stage simultaneously ocurring in great quantity - haven't managed to do so this year but instead produced three traditional flushes with lower number of blooms. Floribunda Easy Does It and shrub/climber Golden Celebration are the two that displayed actual continuous bloom in prior years. Roses that rapidly cycled previously - 3 to 4 weeks from petal fall to new blooms opening - have taken a week or two longer. Even weeds that typically grow quickly & luxuriantly here have been relatively restrained this year.


clipped on: 08.31.2014 at 12:24 pm    last updated on: 08.31.2014 at 12:24 pm

RE: Looking for online store to buy rose trees. (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: vasue on 08.28.2014 at 01:43 am in Roses Forum

Regan Nursery offers a good selection of 36" standards. Seems you'll need to select "36" standard rose tree" under Rose Class AND "36" Tree" under Type to search them. Many mail order nurseries offer some 36" standards, but a short search of those familiar to me showed Regan with the most varieties. These would be sent bare root next Spring. Perhaps a local nursery would be willing to order from their suppliers for you for Spring delivery.

Believe these would need heavy protection to overwinter in your zone. possibly best garage kept. You may want to ask if others here are growing these successfully in your zone & what methods they use in Winter.

Here is a link that might be useful: Regan search


clipped on: 08.28.2014 at 01:47 am    last updated on: 08.28.2014 at 01:47 am

Kordes rose performance

posted by: gardenerzone4 on 07.15.2012 at 01:54 am in Roses Forum

I'm targeting BS-resistant roses for next year, which led me to ADR and mostly Kordes roses. Would like to know how these have performed for you--please share the good, bad, and ugly.

Golden Gate
Aloha Hawaii
Rosanna 2002

Caramel Fairy Tale
Cinderella Fairy Tale
Elegant Fairy Tale
Alexandra Princess de Luxembourg

Grande Amore 2005
Mother of Pearl
Souvenir de Baden Baden (aka Pink Enchantment)
Liv Tyler
Fantasia Mondiale
Apricot Candy
Sweet Promise
Winter Sun
Golden Fairy Tale/Sterntaler

Out of Rosenheim
Brothers Grimm Fairy Tale
Lion's Fairy Tale
Pomponella Fairy Tale


clipped on: 08.27.2014 at 10:21 am    last updated on: 08.27.2014 at 10:21 am

Transplanting this tree - how realistic?

posted by: Johniferous on 08.23.2014 at 03:16 pm in Conifers Forum

I think this is a Norway Spruce, but if you think it's something else let me know and I'll post a pic of the foliage up close.

So the previous owner planted it in 2007 as a small tree. It's now about 9 feet to the tip of this years candle. It's beautiful...and planted directly under a 20 foot high power line.

I refuse to top it and make it look like crap. So I'm either enjoying it for a few years then killing it, or.....transplanting it to a different spot on my property next month.

How realistic is the idea of doing this? It has to be done by hand with a few friends - a truck or baco cannot get to this area of my property.


clipped on: 08.27.2014 at 08:14 am    last updated on: 08.27.2014 at 08:14 am

RE: Preventing Japanese Beetles (Follow-Up #65)

posted by: vasue on 08.25.2014 at 12:35 pm in Roses Forum

Usually a few JP's show up & are easily picked off. Some years more than others, but never in large numbers. This year they came late to the party in mid-July & brought their friends - maybe a third the quantity shown in harryshoe's photo - an invasion. (Harryshoe, salute your devotion to your roses!) Finally all but gone a month later.

Doesn't help that roses here have good to powerful fragrance - a feature as attractive to them as to me. Even the nights & early mornings were too warm this Summer to make the beetles sluggish for easy capture. A friend keeps chickens, and she mentioned they love to chow down on JP's. Trying to figure out how to trap & keep them alive for feeding, got the idea to chill tall thick plastic glasses stacked in the freezer till the hunt was on.

Holding a frozen tumbler beneath a bloom, found merely bending the blossom into the mouth of the glass & tapping it gently against the interior caused all the beetles to immediately fall off, even those tucked into the petals, apparently stunned by the rising cold. Sometimes snipped the entire flower into the glass if it was nearly blown. Doing this bloom by bloom didn't alert those on other flowers & it was quick & neat to fill the glass halfway. Just needed a cardboard postcard capping to go into the fridge before grabbing another frozen glass & going at another rose bush. When all that day's harvest were trapped, poured them into wide-mouth mason jars with paper towel held in place across the top by the ring & into the fridge they neatly went. Stayed alive in cold storage & weren't awake enough to evade the chickens when shaken out on the ground for them, though they'd warmed on the ride over to my friend's house.

Never having jarred beetles this way before, must say it did my heart good to see them inert in their clear glass jars neatly lined up on the refrigerator shelf! Fresh from this organic garden, chickens gobbled them up. Took to calling them Japanese Relish...good for something - someone - after all.

Imagine the cold stun & capture approach could be modified & used for immediate disposal, or icy water used in the traditional bucket manner might be helpful.


clipped on: 08.25.2014 at 12:38 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2014 at 02:19 pm

moving 16 ft. norway

posted by: on 06.12.2014 at 08:57 pm in Conifers Forum

Some years ago, I had 2 black hills spruce delivered to plant behind the shed.
They mixed up the delivery ,and one was a Norway,not noticing this until after planting.
I knew I would eventually have to move it. About 6 years ago I did it.
It took 2 full weekends of digging,burlaping,tying...8 ft. hole, plus a ramp out.
I rented a chain, pulled the truck in the back yard,put a sheet of steal behind the root ball.
Well that baby slid right up he ramp and across the yard and into the new hole standing up all the way.
Saving grace- the wire basket was still intact and I saved as many roots as possible rather than shearing them off.
Early summer.....fill up hole half with soil...water..repeat.
weekly watering....almost no stress or browning..Success !


clipped on: 08.24.2014 at 01:22 pm    last updated on: 08.24.2014 at 01:23 pm

RE: Need your opinion on shower stall (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: vasue on 08.24.2014 at 12:36 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Another here who likes larger tiles in small spaces, for ease of care & visual expansion. As far as placement, three 12" tiles would span each wall with the middle tile centered & each side tile cut equally to fit...


clipped on: 08.24.2014 at 12:38 pm    last updated on: 08.24.2014 at 12:38 pm

RE: Need your opinion on shower stall (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: vasue on 08.24.2014 at 12:11 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Yayagal, thanks for the link to Wetwall. Any idea on pricing? Something similar available stateside? Large shower here & exploring solid surface rather than tile.


clipped on: 08.24.2014 at 12:11 pm    last updated on: 08.24.2014 at 12:12 pm

Very different from glass house

posted by: AnnieDeighnaugh on 08.23.2014 at 08:44 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Took a hike and a house tour today at Topsmead, a house built in the 20s, inspired by Cotswald cottages. This place is cozy in the extreme. As much as I liked the glass house, I think I'd have no problem moving in here in a minute.

Hard to see in this pic, but that yellow thing next to the chair is a dahlia the size of a dinner plate!

Normally I'm not a fan of oak woodwork because of what they did in the past with the light/honey oak, but here it was a lovely warm color and looked fabulous.

In addition to the warmth, the place provides lots of nooks and vignettes, inside and out...

With wonderful views out of every window.

The fact that it's set on over 500 acres at the top of a hill doesn't hurt...with a mix of meadows, orchards, pine forests, ponds, etc. Just wonderful.


clipped on: 08.24.2014 at 11:04 am    last updated on: 08.24.2014 at 11:05 am

RE: Transplant looking pretty bad... (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: vasue on 08.23.2014 at 04:17 pm in Roses Forum

I think it's magnificent in its individuality - like an outsized bonsai - and its trough planter (brilliant idea) gives it a very French country flair. Another standing ovation to you for recognizing its unique beauty & working so hard to preserve it! I don't think it's doomed at all. I've moved some big plants, including roses in active growth, without cutting them back at all except for snipping any buds & blooms. (Also surprised at how small their roots were sometimes in contrast to their top growth, having started by digging rings around them several feet out from the trunk.) Figuring the plant will decide which branches or foliage it cannot support better than I, usually few died back & were clipped off but some leaves would shed and regrow.

You might consider shading the metal trough from the hot sun, as metal containers can heat up quite a bit even in this climate, baking roots too close to the sides in the process, making for trying conditions for a plant whose roots were previously cool. Agree with shading the rose temporarily, as with any transplant in heat. Might clip a cloth or bedsheet to the gutters & to stakes to give it and the trough a canopy that will filter the intensity of the sun. If you have a misting setting on your hose wand, might use that several times a day to mist the leaves. Shredded mulch wetted when you water would release more humidity to the branches, or sheet moss tucked across the soil & held with hairpins to keep soil from splashing in watering & insulate.



clipped on: 08.23.2014 at 04:19 pm    last updated on: 08.23.2014 at 04:19 pm

RE: Info on Floribunda varieties (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: vasue on 08.22.2014 at 06:09 pm in Roses Forum

I've grown two from your list, both grafted. Similar experience with grandiflora White Lightnin' as Pat, though recall it staying around 4' tall & equally as wide in a past 6b garden. Clean from blackspot no spray & didn't attract thrips, as some pale roses have for me. Great perfume & lovely zinnia-type blooms when fully open. Not a pale yellow for me, but a French vanilla with a buttery heart. Imagine planting next to yellow would bring that out more. Love the way you've bookended it with Julia Child, Pat! Thinking I need WL in this garden, too, and may copy your placement in admiration.

Amber Queen was a favorite in years past, just beautiful with ruffled blooms of amber & apricot shaded with buff. Good but not powerful fragrance, clean leaves in blackspot country no spray, grew 2x2' feet, old-style twiggy classic floribunda. Grafted bareroots succumbed (twice) to Winter cold, but the grafts were not buried, as most were not prior to the last few years. Would welcome AQ back again in a more sheltered spot, perhaps own root this time round.

Edited to add: Met French Lace many times in central Florida in gardens & nurseries while visiting my folks. Charming form & coloration, healthy there but unknown if spray protected. Not much of a scent to me, unless nose-deep for a faint nicely spicy sweet whiff. That removed it from consideration here, but was often tempted & always intrigued by it.

This post was edited by vasue on Fri, Aug 22, 14 at 18:24


clipped on: 08.22.2014 at 06:27 pm    last updated on: 08.22.2014 at 07:22 pm

RE: Buying used furniture. What is worth it? How do you make it w (Follow-Up #47)

posted by: vasue on 08.22.2014 at 11:57 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Adler isn't a brand with which I'm familiar, either, but then again seldom need to buy upholstered furniture, also going for quality & durability. Casual browsing turns up the faqs page linked. Made in the USA, custom bench-crafted with kiln dried hardwood frames, limited lifetime warranty on frames & springs - sounds good. Call for more details, such as questions about hand-tied coils & leather specifications. They use two kinds of cushion fill around a quality foam core - poly or down & feather wrap. The ones you're considering have the down, the ones illustrated in the models below use the poly wrap for a tight fit. Imagine you could modify the wrap if you prefer the tailored fit. Their price point seems neither inflated nor low-balled. Absolute top notch construction would include details like clips on elastic tucked into corners to attach invisibly to cushions to keep them from shifting, type of leather & finishes like glazes. Find often that higher prices don't necessarily reflect genuinely higher quality. These likely aren't heirloom quality your grandkids will fight over (though could become so if standards continue to deteriorate with throw-away trends), but they appear well made & streets beyond the run of the mill variety. Of all the styles you've shown, these strike me as the most versatile, appropriate in a wide range of settings from traditional to cutting edge. (The velvet pulls at my heartstrings, too, and might find another room for that - nice at the foot of a big bed or tucked in a hallway or landing.) The impression on the left leg looks more like a dimple to me - left from something propped against it. Happens sometimes to my leathers from heavy books left stacked on a cushion. Resolves itself in a few days once the weight is removed. Caused one by leaving a picture frame set against a leg for a week while deciding which painting to hang above the sofa. Used a dry iron set on low with light cardboard between it & the leather to resolve that. (Around here there are people who come to your home to fix glitches in leather furniture, and I'd read up on their techniques.)

The Adler sofas look like their currently available Blakely model in Lyon camel leather. (Under fabric, click the brown square to find the price of $5,500.)
This model has a wooden plinth base. Looks like the same style on legs in their Topanga model for the same price.

The plinth makes cleaning the floor beneath the sofa easy, but you could replace it with legs or simply add legs as well since the plinth is recessed. Might be fun to put a tailored skirt along the apron in a print - could be easily attached underneath without altering the piece - to match or play off pillows. If you sew, making new cloth cushion covers is the easiest part of redoing a couch, taking a pattern from the existing cushions. The mix & match leather-fabric combination you're considering is fun. You could make fabric cushion covers for the back or seats or both & swap out the cushions themselves to have interchangeable options. Leather pillows against a cloth background or the reverse continue the mix.

Can relate to what may be your wish to give the room feminine touches as the lone girl! I mix lace curtains under pull drapes with leather upholstery & like the gender inclusive balance of both. Thirty feet (10 tall windows & a glass door) in this family room are dressed with machine washable wild birds motif lace hung by rings from a double rod so they can be pushed to the side as needed. Drapes in the same motif fold into the corners & can be pulled out across the windows. (Behind both are pull-down accordion shades for each glass.) The guys nixed florals there, but there are small flowers & berries on the tree branches behind the life-size birds in the print & lace - subtle yet evident. Funny how birds are acceptable as nature-themed - gender neutral - but flowers are girly in the guys' opinion. Sun coming through the lace casts bird shadows into the room, enchanting to me. An example of how I've skirted preferences to please us each & all. Upholstered pieces are mainly leather in this room, with some needlepoint seats.

Long intrigued by examples of stenciled leathers, a tatoo pattern look, if I found these Adler couches, would pick them up to experiment, remake the cushions to pillows or repurpose to headboards. If I actually needed sofas, these would already be in this house or on their way. At this price, they'd at minimum be stand-ins till "perfect" showed up.

Here is a link that might be useful: Adler


clipped on: 08.22.2014 at 12:15 pm    last updated on: 08.22.2014 at 01:28 pm

RE: Buying used furniture. What is worth it? How do you make it w (Follow-Up #43)

posted by: vasue on 08.21.2014 at 02:55 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

The most timeless, enduring styles would lead me to the two Adler sofas ($100 the pair - great value) and the kilim sofa, all of which should wear like iron & be easily cleaned. (Note the fitted armcovers on the kilim, another sign of quality as the arms are often first to wear.) These are sofas you could literally live on & would fit right in with the colors in the paintings, brick fireplace, wood floors & rug in your photo with the slide. Adult & kid friendly to boot, cozy. Add corner throw pillows to the Adlers & you've got it made.

The rose bouquet Laura Ashely look sofa you love is appealing, but you'd pretty much wind up redoing the room around it rather than slipping it in. Not a particularly durable choice even when scotchguarded, meant for lighter use. Check out her website for shapes that would look good with it. If florals zing your heart, might choose pillows or a throw for the Adlers & kilim.

The green & peach floral set you're mulling over - sort of an all-in-one design combo - strikes me as highly stylized & dramatic. Something for a room used only for company rather than family living. Remember this type of set with walls to match the background of the print or gold foil wallpaper. Looked at the listing & noticed in the gap between the back cushions on the loveseat what seems like dark lining fabric. A top of the line set would use the surface fabric or the same fabric without the print to cover the entire inside back. When you lean back against those cushions, the gap will be apparent.

Something locally available that you can touch, sniff & sit/lay down test would be first in line for me. If it's being offered in a home, is the place well kept? Turn it over & examine it thoroughly. Does it show wear, smell off, feel slightly sticky (home foam cleaners not rinsed well can do that)? Labels should be visible on the decking under the seat cushions. With fabric pieces, look for cushion covers that are reversible & can be zipped off for cleaning & for arm covers, as these two spots get the hardest use. Look for piping or welting edging cushions to stabilize the seams & add a finished edge. Is this something you'd buy off a showroom floor if it was within your price range? In other words, is it well made & do you really, really like it? Can you see yourself happily lounging on it in your home?

For any piece that would need to be shipped, add the cost of that, in addition to its returnability & that added freight if you don't like it in person, along with the seller's reputation.


clipped on: 08.21.2014 at 03:05 pm    last updated on: 08.21.2014 at 03:05 pm

RE: Is adding roses in the Fall common? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: vasue on 08.20.2014 at 02:26 pm in Roses Forum

Autumn is usually much more stable in the weather department than Spring here, where the early ups-downs of temperature swing wildly. Not uncommon for 90 in early April followed by hard freezes. Soil too wet for planting often problematic for clay-based loam subject to generous rain late Winter & Spring. Early September through mid-October is my favorite planting time for perennials, including roses, to settle in easily. Soil's still warm, nights cool but not frosty & daytime temps mild. Indian Summer can last till Christmas some years, and the cold doesn't usually penetrate the ground till the new year. Need to be good about watering then & in the mild patches of Winter, but planting after the Summer heat passes less stressful on all concerned.

(Does it seem silly to feel new plants arriving in this garden take their cues from those already here? Seldom planting anything not cold-hardier than two zones lower than this & known to appreciate conditions offered, this appears to be the norm in this garden. As if a melody & rhythm already inaudibly playing among the existing plants set a pattern to which newcomers respond in kind...)

Local custom calls for planting bare root roses no later than mid-March in sites prepared the previous Autumn & mulched heavily at that time to protect the soil from freeze-thaw cycles so common in this area of sporadic snow cover, so planting is possible in March. Ideally, the rose should awaken at the proper time without missing a beat. In the main, worked successfully for years until the "new norm" of more volatile weather patterns signalled all bets were off. Took to potting up bare roots & doing the garage protection shuffle before planting out when the weather stabilized. More trouble & expense (fresh potting soil) than preferred, finally unconvinced that the roses transitioned well to garden sites. Though they did relatively well initially protected from yo-yo Spring weather exposure, they often stalled as the heat cranked up in a way the traditional manner sidestepped. Perhaps a potting soil to garden soil transition issue? Yet potted roses bought in season given larger pots & planted out after Summer heat passed did fine, so perhaps a root growth/top growth effect. At any rate, tiring of the early potting method & reluctant to return to iffy weather traditional planting, considering a limited fall bare root inground trial myself.

Over the years, often planted end-of-season potted roses in Autumn with great success, as well as moving & replanting existing roses. (A favorite nursery that carries pansies & mums discounts their 3-gallons in an all-you-can-carry sale for $16. Those still healthy & blooming late prove irresistible at what comes to $4 a rose.) Tried Fall planting a few bare root mail order roses I'd craved that always seemed to be sold out very early or sent in whimpier versions after warmer zones were supplied. Depending on how late in our season they were planted, found those put in halfway through would often leaf out but not show much branch growth, lose their leaves at the usual time & grow strongly in the following season piled with leaves during the cold. Figured the new leaves supplied the roots equal energy as a neutral trade off & the plants' internal clocks synchronized to the shorter day season knew it wasn't time for a growth spurt. Similar reaction as a plant that drops its leaves for other reasons only to regrow them if conditions allow. On this semi-exposed bluff ringed by forest, protect young plants from prevailing Winter winds of drying cold. Grafts planted below soil level in recent years to hedge against Winter loss & in hopes of own rooting. If we could time Fall planting of actually dormant roses just right - when the soil still favors root growth without air temps & sun promoting growth - we might get lucky & come out a season ahead of the game, or not. Wonder if shading a Fall-planted bare root rose or otherwise attempting to foil top growth triggers might help keep it safely asleep...

Are gardeners all gamblers at heart? Try to place & hedge my bets within reason, and safe bets are reassuring. Still mulling this prospect myself, found the linked discussion on point.

Here is a link that might be useful: Fall rose planting discussion

This post was edited by vasue on Wed, Aug 20, 14 at 14:31


clipped on: 08.20.2014 at 03:03 pm    last updated on: 08.20.2014 at 03:03 pm

RE: Have you ever bought furniture from Tuesday Morning? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: vasue on 08.12.2014 at 02:51 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Another Tuesday Morning fan here. Haven't tried upholstered pieces (small local shop occassionally has chairs), but wouldn't hestitate if I liked something, especially for light duty use. Bought a pair of end tables there 16 years ago that still flank the LR sofa & look like new after all these years & much use. They're lift-top chests on legs, lined with felt with an interior removable tray, covered entirely with leather look (and it may be leather) in a map print on sepia with brass hardware. Snapped them up for $150? pair, thinking they could be replaced down the road if they didn't hold up. Later saw them in a Horchow or Gump's catalogue for $500+ each.

Bought a pair of lamps long time back for the shades. I'd seen the designer shades in lamp shops, and recognized the lamps with those shades were significantly less than the shades alone. Nice lamps, too, which were refitted with plain shades & still in use, as are the shades I bought them for on other lamps.

Then there's the heavy-duty 150' hose reel on wheels in a fancy cast iron design picked up years ago for $85 when plastic box versions were priced nearly that much. Still in daily use & left out year-round, did reoil the wooden handle some time back, but other than that it looks new, too. Frontgate sells a similar reel in aluminum for $350 minus the wheels.

Long way round of echoing others' understanding that their wares are closeouts, overstocks, discontinueds & previous season stuff at heavy discount for the quality. You're so considerate to be thinking of your MIL's comfort! If you like the chairs & think they'll work, try them out - they've a great return policy at least 60 if not 90 days. You may find you're still using them years later, too.


clipped on: 08.12.2014 at 02:54 pm    last updated on: 08.12.2014 at 02:54 pm

RE: Laguna vs Rosarium Uertesen (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: vasue on 08.11.2014 at 07:01 pm in Roses Forum

Big fan of RU & its exuberant personality. The very distinct blooms resemble oversized carnations or zinnias, open coral pink with lighter reverse & fade to salmon pink in this climate, showing a variety of tints within the same colorway. Healthy no spray & generous with bloom, it's a happy rose for me. Grew it in another garden years ago, missed it since & brought in two to grace this garden - ownroot from Chamblees.

Met Laguna in person & wasn't as taken with it as I'd expected. Those examples were raspberry pink with definite lavender undertones, which wouldn't harmonize well with many of the saturated pastels I prefer. Realize color varies with locale, soil, weather & more, just didn't make my heart beat faster.

Rosarium's blooms are larger than Lagunas by an inch or more, and RU is rated to 4b while Laguna's rating is 5b.


clipped on: 08.11.2014 at 08:02 pm    last updated on: 08.11.2014 at 08:02 pm

RE: Does Limelight live up to its Advertising? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: vasue on 07.24.2014 at 04:22 pm in Hydrangea Forum

Jess, did you buy your plants in bud & bloom? Saw Limelights for sale here 2-3 months ago already coming into bloom ahead of their natural bloom season, probably greenhouse grown & possibly forced into bloom. If yours fall into this category, their blossoms will turn color earlier than otherwise, having begun earlier than they would in your garden.

Indeed, no changing them backwards in their progression. Next year you can expect normal bloomtimes & color changes later in the season.


clipped on: 07.24.2014 at 04:23 pm    last updated on: 07.24.2014 at 04:23 pm

RE: Blushing Bride does not blush (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: vasue on 07.24.2014 at 03:55 pm in Hydrangea Forum

Sunnytop, it's possible your liberal use of sulfur is the culprit. Blushing Bride showed the pink tint in its first two years in your alkaline soil. Have you been using sulfur since it was first planted? Sulfur atop the soil can take a good while to affect the soil pH, as long as two years, at the depth of the rootball.

Blushing Bride is a controlled cross between Veitchii & Endless Summer. Veitchii is a white lacecap known to turn rose-pink in Autumn. Endless Summer's color of blue or pink is pH dependent. Wilkerson Mills, among others, notes that Blushing Bride will blush pink or blue according to soil pH - link below.

I'm guessing your sweet alkaline soil gave you the pink tints you like until it shifted with your use of sulfur. Stop the sulfur & the soil will revert to its alkaline nature, likely returning your Blushing Bride's blooms to their original expression in your garden. You might speed up this process with soil treatments used for alkalizing acidic soil - you'd have to research that.

Hydrangeas grow well in sweet soil. Believe its probably the acidic treatment that's muddled the colors of your Blushing Bride.

Here is a link that might be useful: Blushing Bride


clipped on: 07.24.2014 at 04:01 pm    last updated on: 07.24.2014 at 04:01 pm

RE: ants in potted roses (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: vasue on 07.24.2014 at 02:46 pm in Roses Forum

Since keeping them out is easier than getting them out, needed a new method after ants found their way past the typical clay shards. Began using landscape fabric cut to fit the inside bottom of pots to cover drainholes & haven't found ants taking up residence since. Plants still in the pots they came in get a piece of landscape fabric rubberbanded around their bottoms till repotted or planted. Those arriving in decorative planters get a mat of the fabric beneath them. Not having used landscape rolls for their original purpose, still find them handy for other garden uses.

Cinnamon sticks - ingenious - thanks for the tip!

Here is a link that might be useful: Ants!


clipped on: 07.24.2014 at 02:52 pm    last updated on: 07.24.2014 at 02:52 pm

RE: grow bags in pots? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: tapla on 03.03.2014 at 07:24 am in Container Gardening Forum

Your choice of soil will determine whether or not your plant is over-potted. It doesn't matter what you use for a soil, as long as you can water correctly w/o having to worry about the soil remaining soggy for so long it causes root rot or impairs root function due to lack of O2 in the root zone.

Read these for a better idea of what I'm talking about:

Not long ago, on another forum, I wrote the following because someone had asked if a particular soil was a 'good' choice. Rather than simply give him a 'yes or no' answer, I decided to go into enough detail that it would allow HIM to decide, instead of me, or others. It also offers something unique in that it illustrates there are two ways to look at soil choice. It meshes very nicely with the theme of this thread, so hopefully you will find it of interest.

Is Soil X a 'Good' Soil?

I think any discussion on this topic must largely center around the word "GOOD", and we can broaden the term 'good' so it also includes 'quality' or 'suitable', as in "Is soil X a quality or suitable soil?"

How do we determine if soil A or soil B is a good soil? and before we do that, we'd better decide if we are going to look at it from the plant's perspective or from the grower's perspective, because often there is a considerable amount of conflict to be found in the overlap - so much so that one can often be mutually exclusive of the other.

We can imagine that grower A might not be happy or satisfied unless knows he is squeezing every bit of potential from his plants, and grower Z might not be happy or content unless he can water his plants before leaving on a 2-week jaunt, and still have a weeks worth of not having to water when he returns. Everyone else is somewhere between A and Z; with B, D, F, H, J, L, N, P, R, T, V, X, and Y either classically ignorant (it just means they're not aware there is a difference) or they understand but don't care.

I said all that to illustrate the large measure of futility in trying to establish any sort of standard as to what makes a good soil from the individual grower's perspective; but let's change our focus from the pointless to the possible.

We're only interested in the comparative degrees of 'good' and 'better' here. It would be presumptive to label any soil "best". 'Best I've found' or 'best I've used' CAN sometimes be useful for comparative purposes, but that's a very subjective judgment. Let's tackle 'good', then move on to 'better', and finally see what we can do about qualifying these descriptors so they can apply to all growers.

I would like to think that everyone would prefer to use a soil that can be described as 'good' from the plant's perspective. How do we determine what a plant wants? Surprisingly, we can use %s established by truly scientific studies that are widely accepted in the greenhouse and nursery trades to determine if a soil is good or not good - from the plant's perspective, that is. Rather than use confusing numbers that mean nothing to the hobby grower, I can suggest that our standard for a good soil should be, at a minimum, that you can water that soil properly. That means, that at any time during the growth cycle, you can water your plantings to beyond the point of saturation (so excess water is draining from the pot) without the fear of root rot or compromised root function or metabolism due to (take your pick) too much water or too little air in the root zone.

I think it's very reasonable to withhold the comparative basic descriptor, 'GOOD', from soils that can't be watered properly without compromising root function, or worse, suffering one of the fungaluglies that cause root rot. I also think anyone wishing to make the case from the plant's perspective that a soil that can't be watered to beyond saturation w/o compromising root health can be called 'good', is fighting on the UP side logic hill.

So I contend that 'good' soils are soils we can water correctly; that is, we can flush the soil when we water without concern for compromising root health/function/metabolism. If you ask yourself, "Can I water correctly if I use this soil?" and the answer is 'NO' ... it's not a good soil ... for the reasons stated above.

Can you water correctly using most of the bagged soils readily available? 'NO', I don't think I need to point to a conclusion.

What about 'BETTER'? Can we determine what might make a better soil? Yes, we can. If we start with a soil that meets the minimum standard of 'good', and improve either the physical and/or chemical properties of that soil, or make it last longer, then we have 'better'. Even if we cannot agree on how low we wish to set the bar for what constitutes 'good', we should be able to agree that any soil that reduces excess water retention, increases aeration, ensures increased potential for optimal root health, and lasts longer than soils that only meet some one's individual and arbitrary standard of 'good', is a 'better' soil.

All the plants we grow, unless grown from seed, have the genetic potential to be beautiful specimens. It's easy to say, and easy to see the absolute truth in the idea that if you give a plant everything it wants it will flourish and grow; after all, plants are programmed to grow just that way. Our growing skills are defined by our ability to give plants what they want. The better we are at it, the better our plants will grow. But we all know it's not that easy. Lifetimes are spent in careful study, trying to determine just exactly what it is that plants want and need to make them grow best.

Since this is a soil discussion, let's see what the plant wants from its soil. The plant wants a soil in which we have endeavored to provide in available form, all the essential nutrients, in the ratio in at which the plant uses them, and at a concentration high enough to prevent deficiencies yet low enough to make it easy to take up water (and the nutrients dissolved in the water). First and foremost, though, the plant wants a container soil that is evenly damp, never wet or soggy. Giving a plant what it wants, to flourish and grow, doesn't include a soil that is half saturated for a week before aeration returns to the entire soil mass, even if you only water in small sips. Plants might do 'ok' in some soils, but to actually flourish, like they are genetically programmed to do, they would need to be unencumbered by wet, soggy soils.

We become better growers by improving our ability to reduce the effects of limiting factors, or by eliminating those limiting factors entirely; in other words, by clearing out those influences that stand in the way of the plant reaching its genetic potential. Even if we are able to make every other factor that influences plant growth/vitality absolutely perfect, it could not make up for a substandard soil. For a plant to grow to its genetic potential, every factor has to be perfect, including the soil. Of course, we'll never manage to get to that point, but the good news is that as we get closer and closer, our plants get better and better; and hopefully, we'll get more from our growing experience.

In my travels, I've discovered it almost always ends up being that one little factor that we willingly or unwittingly overlooked that limits us in our abilities, and our plants in their potential.
Food for thought:

A 2-bit plant in a $10 soil has a future full of potential, where a $10 plant in a 2-bit soil has a future filled only with limitations. ~ Al


Choosing an Appropriate Size Container

How large a container ‘can’ or ‘should’ be, depends on the relationship between the mass of the plant material you are working with and your choice of soil. We often concern ourselves with "over-potting" (using a container that is too large), but "over-potting" is a term that arises from a lack of a basic understanding about the relationship we will look at, which logically determines appropriate container size.
It's often parroted that you should only move up one container size when "potting-up". The reasoning is, that when potting up to a container more than one size larger, the soil will remain wet too long and cause root rot issues, but it is the size/mass of the plant material you are working with, and the physical properties of the soil you choose that determines both the upper & lower limits of appropriate container size - not a formulaic upward progression of container sizes. In many cases, after root pruning a plant, it may even be appropriate to step down a container size or two, but as you will see, that also depends on the physical properties of the soil you choose.
Plants grown in ‘slow’ (slow-draining/water-retentive) soils need to be grown in containers with smaller soil volumes so that the plant can use water quickly, allowing air to return to the soil before root issues beyond impaired root function/metabolism become a limiting factor. We know that the anaerobic (airless) conditions that accompany soggy soils quickly kill fine roots and impair root function/metabolism. We also know smaller soil volumes and the root constriction that accompany them cause plants to both extend branches and gain o/a mass much more slowly - a bane if rapid growth is the goal - a boon if growth restriction and a compact plant are what you have your sights set on.
Conversely, rampant growth can be had by growing in very large containers and in very fast soils where frequent watering and fertilizing is required - so it's not that plants rebel at being potted into very large containers per se, but rather, they rebel at being potted into very large containers with a soil that is too slow and water-retentive. This is a key point.
We know that there is an inverse relationship between soil particle size and the height of the perched water table (PWT) in containers. As particle size increases, the height of the PWT decreases, until at about a particle size of just under 1/8 inch, soils will no longer hold perched water. If there is no perched water, the soil is ALWAYS well aerated, even when the soil is at container capacity (fully saturated).
So, if you aim for a soil (like the gritty mix) composed primarily of particles larger than 1/16", there is no upper limit to container size, other than what you can practically manage. The lower size limit will be determined by the soil volume's ability to allow room for roots to ’run’ and to furnish water enough to sustain the plant between irrigations. Bearing heavily on this ability is the ratio of fine roots to coarse roots. It takes a minimum amount of fine rootage to support the canopy under high water demand. If the container is full of large roots, there may not be room for a sufficient volume of the fine roots that do all the water/nutrient delivery work and the coarse roots, too. You can grow a very large plant in a very small container if the roots have been well managed and the lion's share of the rootage is fine. You can also grow very small plants, even seedlings, in very large containers if the soil is fast (free-draining and well-aerated) enough that the soil holds no, or very little perched water.

I have just offered clear illustration that the oft repeated advice to ‘only pot up one size at a time’, only applies when using heavy, water-retentive soils. Those using well-aerated soils are not bound by the same restrictions.



clipped on: 07.23.2014 at 07:45 am    last updated on: 07.23.2014 at 07:45 am

RE: Looking for discount rose containers (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: vasue on 07.17.2014 at 06:06 pm in Roses Forum

Seil, that's an ingenious solution! Some jumbo pots here had to be tilted on a lower rim & rolled a short way before reversing - crabwalked - laboriously to clear & wash the walkway. Others require two people & a lot of mumbling & stumbling to move. Found a PotLifter a few years back that's made moving the pots (and many other things) relatively easy, even with the straight-sided, square & odd ones. A square of outdoor plywood beneath especially slick (like glass) or stuff with uneven bottoms, like shrubs being moved, makes those easy with this, too. With all your pots, might be worth a look. Link below for the reviews.

Here is a link that might be useful: PotLifter


clipped on: 07.17.2014 at 06:26 pm    last updated on: 07.17.2014 at 06:27 pm

RE: recomendation for a rose (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: vasue on 07.17.2014 at 05:23 pm in Roses Forum

Jasminerose, double thanks for the great link to Tom Carruth's presentation & the reminder of Jardins de Bagatelle! Delicious in every way, grew it in the late 80's in a colder more exposed garden where it succumbed to cold. Thinking this garden would be more hospitable, would happily welcome it and again inhale that heavenly perfume.

Here is a link that might be useful: Jardins de Bagatelle


clipped on: 07.17.2014 at 05:38 pm    last updated on: 07.17.2014 at 05:38 pm

RE: Looking for discount rose containers (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: vasue on 07.17.2014 at 05:01 pm in Roses Forum

Many local nurseries will have stacks of used empty nursery pots out in the back by their property line, especially if they do plant installation. Often can be bought very cheaply.

Great leads here & find the washing machine tub very creative & inspirational!


clipped on: 07.17.2014 at 05:03 pm    last updated on: 07.17.2014 at 05:03 pm

RE: double knockout rose in container on hot patio..ugggh (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: vasue on 07.17.2014 at 12:24 pm in Roses Forum

Jacklyn, the pot feet are great for stationary pots/planters & can be inconspicuous or decorative. Link below shows some examples - the figural feet come in many varieties - as well as low plant stands which are like trivets for flowerpots. Most of mine are what they're calling the "Victorian" shape but have a fired-on glaze, which further protects them from freezing. (If the feet are used to protect the pot bottom from freezing to a surface, you don't want the feet themselves freezing & cracking or the pot falls over, canceling out the whole point of their use!) Have some of the bird ones from a sale, but they're replaced as the temp chills with the glazed for Winter. Only 3 are needed but 4 are sturdier. Local Lowes carries the whitewash glazed & plain with their outdoor pot display, usually in a small cardboard box on the shelf near the terra cotta & ceramic pots. Some of the neighboring nurseries carry the more decorative ones at prices equivalent to what the market will bear, and a slew of designs available online.

Your boyfriend reminds me of my husband - just never know what he'll happen upon on sale & bring home! Must admit, his back-ups of certain items have come in remarkably handy over the years...

Here is a link that might be useful: Examples of pot feet

This post was edited by vasue on Thu, Jul 17, 14 at 12:29


clipped on: 07.17.2014 at 12:36 pm    last updated on: 07.17.2014 at 12:36 pm

RE: sale (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: vasue on 07.17.2014 at 10:18 am in Hydrangea Forum

Congrats on your great score & thanks for the tip! Will include a stop on the errands circuit today at the local Walmart's small garden department. As long as the spare cash holds out, I'm a sucker for near-give-away sales on the rebloomers, too. Heartbeat speeds up while "resistance is futile" whispers in the mind & automatic pilot takes over. Happy conundrum of where to plant, and there's always pots!


clipped on: 07.17.2014 at 10:19 am    last updated on: 07.17.2014 at 10:19 am

RE: double knockout rose in container on hot patio..ugggh (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: vasue on 07.16.2014 at 04:14 pm in Roses Forum

A 15-gallon pot is likely to be 18" across & nearly as high. If concerned about water stains from a pot standing on deck or balcony, you might pick up pot feet as an alternative to a wheeled dolley. They fit under the bottom rim to raise the pot, run a couple of dollars each & you'd need four for a pot that size. Usually found with the pots outside, as they also keep a pot from freezing to a bottom surface & cracking. Often use them & just slide a saucer beneath for water to drain to which can be emptied & removed in between waterings. Might consider using a few inches of mulch atop the soil to keep it cooler & delay moisture evaporation (kept from touching the stems) & pine straw for that is fine. Also keeps soil from splashing out in watering or rain.

The potting mix you used contains slow-release fertilizer, but as others have noted, you'll need quick-release fertilizer for pots as well. The rule of thumb is "weakly, weekly" meaning fertilizer diluted in water at 1/4 the concentration on the bottle for monthly feeding, given weekly by pouring on soil already moist. Some of the fertilizers are very salty & can build up a residue on top of the soil & interior of the pot. Prefer fish emulsion myself.

What a romantic gesture from your boyfriend! Sounds like he's a keeper, just like your rose...

Here is a link that might be useful: General soil capacity pot sizes


clipped on: 07.16.2014 at 04:17 pm    last updated on: 07.16.2014 at 04:17 pm

New Reveal (long) - Garage into Kitchen!

posted by: Lauraeds on 07.07.2014 at 04:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hey all !

I finally managed to get photos taken of our new kitchen, which was finished just a few weeks ago. GW was a huge help ... I poured over post after post, gleaning info from everyone and really refining my vision.

It's a white, shaker-style kitchen, something I've always wanted after loving a previous deep wood/dark counters galley kitchen (old house), and after not-loving what this kitchen was (small, piecemealed, and grungy!)

The house is a beautiful old brick home from 1930, and the new kitchen is the old garage, which was attached on the western end of the home. Since we had to raise the floor (to meet up with the elevation of the rest of the home), we decided to blow out the two small rooms that were above the old garage, and take advantage of all the natural light provided through dormers, existing windows, and new windows and doors. This new kitchen has become the main "family entrance" to the house.

The old kitchen was the next room over, which you'll see now is much better suited with a pantry, office, and the three doorways and two stairways that mucked it up before!

Obviously, it's still a work in progress ... the walls seem big and bare now, but I'm waiting for just the right things to display. The barstools need to be recovered, and you'll notice a small loveseat with some "placeholder" fabric draped over it!

 photo 2014-07-07003414aaa_zpsf986fbf6.jpg
In hopes of orienting you, here I am standing in the old kitchen, looking into the new kitchen (old garage). The bay of windows over the sink is where the old garage carriage doors were. They were great old wood on hinges … we repurposed them into a cool fence on the far side of a new garage.

 photo 2014-07-07001959a_zps71bcec65.jpg
Here we are looking out the front of the house. The two windows were original to the house (garage). Since we had to raise the floor significantly, they dip back behind the counter. I was certain I would drop things back there, but nothing so far (just dust!)

 photo 2014-07-07001530a_zps8855e4ea.jpg
The cedar beams appear much more reddish in color in this photo than in real life. Since we removed the second story (which contained 2 old-school servant bedrooms, more recently a tiny office and defunct playroom), we needed the support of steel plates and big beams to keep the house together!

 photo 2014-07-07001848aa_zps2673987e.jpg

 photo 2014-07-07001806a_zpsd77ea231.jpg
These gorgeous doors (bad photo, sorry), open back on themselves, creating a huge view out the back. We keep them secured, and just use the one on the right as our main entrance into the house from the garage and the backyard. It's a dream, in terms of traffic flow!

 photo 2014-07-07003350a_zps2ef1f113.jpg
Here I am standing further back in the old kitchen. The door on the left is small stairs leading to the basement, and used to be the only access to the old garage, which was three steps down. We blew the wall open to create the open flow you see.
 photo 2014-07-07001655a_zps3280dfc2.jpg
Here is our "mudroom" of sorts … a locker for each person. It's more than enough space for coats, backpacks, shoes, devices (plugs for everyone!), and now I'm just trying to train everyone to use them!!!

The lattice panel is hiding a mini-split HVAC system. Since this area has such different heat/cooling needs, which thought this to be the best bet. It's worked well so far, and there is a small quiet compresser out back.

Above that, you'll see a small glass rail and balcony …. it's the old entrance to the upstairs hallway that lead to the small rooms we removed. Again, the finish isn't quite so red IRL.

 photo 2014-07-07002217a_zpsd8a2c533.jpg

 photo 2014-07-07003212a_zpsc358e34c.jpg
View from the overlook.

 photo 2014-07-07002648a_zpsdc1ecac7.jpg
Prep sink

 photo 2014-07-07002643a_zpsfac063c2.jpg

 photo 2014-07-07002720a_zpsa62bedb6.jpg
A handy extra gleaned from GW. I suppose I should paint or finish it somehow!

 photo 2014-07-07002621a_zps9b943883.jpg

 photo 2014-07-07002755a_zps68f3f9fb.jpg

 photo 2014-07-07002457a_zpsb2dd26cc.jpg

 photo 2014-07-07002053a_zps363a3884.jpg

 photo 2014-07-07002530a_zps9bc90be4.jpg

 photo 2014-07-07002435a_zps38d965b0.jpg

 photo 2014-07-07002535a_zps29780483.jpg

 photo 2014-07-07002238aa_zpsb508031b.jpg

 photo 2014-07-07003504aa_zpsdd6c0ca6.jpg

 photo 2014-07-07003544a_zpsb4fb6cb7.jpg

 photo 2014-07-07002405a_zps34c3acd6.jpg

 photo 2014-07-07002813a_zps216d0669.jpg

 photo 2014-07-07003031a_zpsd87a1c38.jpg
This is the old kitchen. Next to the desk is a fabulous pantry … I will show it off soon, I hope … it's a big, huge mess right now!

Thanks for reading and looking, and thanks for the advice given over the past 2 years!


Cabinets: Custom Shaker, locally made. Ben Moore White Dove.

Pulls: Lewis Dolan, Lews Hardware Bar Pull Collection, Bar Knob in Brushed Brass,

Counter: White Moon Quartzite, honed, pencil round edge

Prep Sink: Kohler Napa Single Basin Cast Iron Bar Sink - White

Kitchen Sink: Kohler Riverby 33" Single Basin Under-Mount Enameled Cast-Iron ��" White

Prep & Kitchen Faucets: Delta Trinsic Pullout Spray Bar/Prep -Champagne Bronze
Floors: Oak 4” planks, custom stained to match existing floors in house

Island Pendants: Circa Lighting, Hicks Pendant Extra Large, Hand rubbed brass, Custom Length Added.

Above-window Sconces: Schoolhouse Electric, Isaac Sconce Long Arm, Brass

Between-window Sconces: Restoration Hardware, Library Sconce, Antique Brass

Range: GE Monogram, 48” dual-fuel with griddle and double ovens

Hood: Custom Cabinetry, GE Monogram 48” Insert

Refrigerator: GE Monogram, 36” Professional Built-In Bottom Freezer. Custom panel made.

Dishwasher: Existing Bosch

Microwave: Existing GE Profile

Bev Fridge: GE Monogram Stainless Steel Beverage Center

Walls: Ben Moore CSP 665 Cool Breeze In various degrees: 25% on walls, 75% and 100% on the ceiling/dormers

Cabinet & Desk Back Walls: BenMoore Slate Teal 2058-20

Range Backsplash Tile: Walker Zanger Studio Moderne, Petite Imperial, Ming Blue Gloss

Glass folding doors and over-sink windows: custom made, painted Benjamin Moore Wrought Iron, 2124-10

Here is a link that might be useful: The full kitchen revealed - more photos

This post was edited by Lauraeds on Mon, Jul 7, 14 at 18:19


clipped on: 07.16.2014 at 01:43 pm    last updated on: 07.16.2014 at 01:43 pm

RE: Fire Light hydrangea (paniculata) (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: vasue on 07.16.2014 at 10:58 am in Hydrangea Forum

Seems to be a new introduction this year, which may explain the lack of replies to your post. Turned up on my radar, too, but have yet to meet one in person. Liking the touted characteristics of early panicles on upright stems that arch without flopping while bearing full-sized blooms on a compact shrub of 7x7'. Red stems would add Winter interest - added plus for 4-season presence.

Still no paniculatas in this garden (though plenty of Annabelles in the neighborhood grown into tree form), been watching the recent candidates & feeback reports with high interest. If I'd been in your shoes, believe Fire Light would have come home with me!

Just to confuse the issue, Fire Light is sometimes condensed to Firelight & there's a mac mophead of the same name long in commerce. Searching Hydrangea paniculata Fire Light or Firelight doesn't turn up much info as yet. Pretty much the standard publicity releases from Proven Winners, with a few other merchandisers' sites providing more detail. Appears the registration name is SMHPFL.

Here is a link that might be useful: Fire Light


clipped on: 07.16.2014 at 10:59 am    last updated on: 07.16.2014 at 12:31 pm

RE: Fantasia (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: vasue on 07.13.2014 at 01:40 pm in Hydrangea Forum

Macgyver, you saw one in blue - so there goes that "stays-pink" hope out the window. Just turned up this Van Klaveren Netherland's site mentioning pink/blue, along with the "possibility to make it blue" & photos of both. Need to rethink intended placement in this acidic soil, since the blue version would not appeal next to existing blues. Overdue shifting them to larger pots, may up the proportion of garden soil to the planting mix & observe the coloring of next year's blooms before reconsidering where to site them.

From your experience, Springwood, may be best to leave them in larger pots placed in the garage this coming Winter, plant out next Spring & plan for cold weather protection in future years. Thank you both for your observations - much appreciated!

Here is a link that might be useful: Fantasia


clipped on: 07.13.2014 at 01:42 pm    last updated on: 07.13.2014 at 01:43 pm

RE: identifying old rose (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: vasue on 07.11.2014 at 01:44 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Lovely rose you're trying to name! You might search at the link below. Click the pointer next to the "year" box for a dropdown menu of each year.

Here is a link that might be useful: Help Me Find by Year of Introduction


clipped on: 07.11.2014 at 01:45 pm    last updated on: 07.11.2014 at 01:46 pm

RE: Resurrection (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: anntn6b on 07.11.2014 at 12:30 pm in Antique Roses Forum

We NEVER get all the roots of the big ones. Ever.

Those pesky voles can sever roots. Or parts of the roots can just be weakened.

Remember that the way leaf axils have undifferentiated meristemic tissues? So do roots, where the root hairs emerge.

The fellow who founded the OGR nursery up in New Brunswick Canada (and who doesn't ship to the USA) at one time did all his propagating from cut up slightly woody roots. Who'da thunk it would work so well?


clipped on: 07.11.2014 at 01:05 pm    last updated on: 07.11.2014 at 01:05 pm

RE: Is this a location issue? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: vasue on 07.11.2014 at 12:38 pm in Roses Forum

As always, Kim generously shares expert advice. Just to say GC does well here & wondering what else may be going on in your garden. You don't mention the amount of sun your GC receives - could lack of sun exposure be a factor in GC's health & be keeping that area more damp? Do you have a mulch there holding too much water itself? How do you provide watering - sprinklers, drip, by hand, on what schedule & time of day or evening? If mechanically, could there be a malfunction? Any dips in the lawn or bed, gutters or downspouts slanting more moisture towards the rose? Is the area getting too much water? Is the rose itself getting too much or not enough? Any underplantings holding & releasing moisture? Any of these & more could impact the individual situation & immune resistance of your rose negatively, attracting bugs & disease.

Thinking over any contributing factors may help you rearrange & solve your puzzle. You might try a diluted seaweed spray foliar & root feeding to help boost CG's health. Consider temporarily removing any mulch & later replacing it with fresh, as it may be saturated with spores.

This garden is likely as humid as yours - seldom under 75% & usually closer to 95% in Summer, with frequent rainstorms. The CG here grows in a mixed perennial bed in an ESE exposure 8' out from the front porch. Gets 7-8 hours of sun from midmorning to late afternoon, in clay-based loam amended with gypsum & compost years ago & topped yearly with compost in Spring & oak leaf mulch in Fall. Compost doesn't touch the stems & mulch stops 8-10" inches from them untl dormant in cold. Believe these conditions contribute to GC's good health these last 9 years with no antifungal treatments.

Troubleshooting is usually tough but necessary. Was your rose doing better till recently? If so, what's changed? Small changes often have big impacts. Put on your detective hat...

This post was edited by vasue on Fri, Jul 11, 14 at 12:42


clipped on: 07.11.2014 at 12:56 pm    last updated on: 07.11.2014 at 12:56 pm

I can't believe this worked!!!

posted by: Nippstress on 07.10.2014 at 08:36 pm in Roses Forum

Hi folks

Earlier in the spring, a week or two after I'd planted my band of the HT Butterscotch, I was noodling around in the garden and stepped on the poor thing. Broke it off right at the base of the soil, with nothing left of the cane and precious little root system established yet. Well, I figured it was a goner, and stepping on things is something I consider one of those acceptable but highly regrettable mistakes, given how close I plant everything.

Still, after muttering some choice language at myself, I looked at the little green sprig in my hand and figured I had nothing to lose, so I stuck the remaining plant top into the ground about 2" deep next to the (presumed) root system. That left only about 2" above ground, so I was expecting to see a relatively fast death of the plant, kind of like sticking a florist rose stem directly in the ground and hoping for the best.

To my surprise, the little squirt hung in there. For a while, it just sat there not dying, and I figured the moisture in the soil was maintaining the green of the plant but it would eventually be toast. Just this week, though, I saw the sprig putting on new leaves! Against all odds, it seems to have put down roots from the base of that tiny stem (no wider than a bamboo skewer) and decided to survive. It wouldn't be that phantom growth you get in early spring from canes that will eventually die, since there's not enough stored energy in the top 2" of the plant to support that kind of growth. Go figure, eh?

I think the reason this sprig survived and other attempts to resurrect severed bits or canes of roses have failed for me, is that it was split from the base of the plant and had some active growing points already at the base of the cane. I've never had any luck with pinching off a few inches of the tip of any other rose and getting it to grow, and I suspect there's something different about the growth "instructions" at the base of a new basal break - or in this case, the only existing cane. You'll all enlighten me if I'm wrong, of course, but I'm now resolved to try sticking more canes back in the ground, particularly the ones that have fallen prostrate on the ground from our very wet weather and separated from more established canes at the soil lines. Should be the same principle, I think.

Anyway, I'm thrilled to recover from at least one mistake this spring (OTOH, no survivors yet from the alfalfa "mistake" I posted about earlier). I realize that this is my third and probably last try to overwinter Butterscotch in my zone and it has a rather slim shot at overwintering even in my warmest most protected bed, but it's nice to see it showing some gumption at least this summer, and maybe a little hardship now will boost its immune system to the winter cold.

Here's the little survivor...yay!!



clipped on: 07.11.2014 at 11:10 am    last updated on: 07.11.2014 at 11:10 am

RE: Another Mystery striped rose - need ID (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: vasue on 07.11.2014 at 11:03 am in Roses Forum

First reminded me of Fourth of July, which I've seen in person but not grown. But that's supposed to be thorny so you wouldn't have planted that there. Perhaps your roses dropped a fertile hip that's a cross of ones you grow? Pretty!

Here is a link that might be useful: Fourth of July


clipped on: 07.11.2014 at 11:04 am    last updated on: 07.11.2014 at 11:04 am

RE: Do Hydrangeas only bloom on old growth, not new? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: vasue on 07.11.2014 at 10:27 am in Hydrangea Forum

After this last Winter caused the same setback you're seeing - hydrangeas that bloom on old wood that suffered dieback won't bloom this year - many of us are looking at the "reblooming" macrophylla (mophead) & serrata (lacecap) with renewed interest. As Springwood says, most of the mopheads & serratas bloom on "old" wood - stems that are at least a year old.These set buds mid-Summer to Fall (depending on your zone & local weather) that bloom the following year. Buds can be killed by cold, as can entire branches.

Those that bloom on "new" wood - branches that grow in the current season - bypass the setback old wood bloomers can encounter. "Reblooming" varieties can bloom on last year's old wood AND this year's new branches. If the old wood buds are killed, new wood will still bloom if your growing season is long enough.

Some are calling those that bloom only on new wood "rebloomers" if new branches grow additional stems that bloom later. The fine line between "rebloom" and "extended bloom" can become confusing. If you want mopheads & lacecaps that can bloom early in the Summer on old wood & later in the season on new wood - so you will have at least one set of blooms every year - look for varieties with info about blooming on old & new wood.

Many new varieties have been & are being introduced to market in recent years. A good bit of discussion here reviews introducers' claims and personal experiences growing them in our gardens.


clipped on: 07.11.2014 at 10:29 am    last updated on: 07.11.2014 at 10:29 am

RE: Echibeckia Summerina 'Orange' (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: vasue on 07.11.2014 at 08:59 am in Perennials Forum

The Echebeckia looks so intriguing! Keep us posted on its quirks & performance. Another Veronica fan here & like Icicle as much as Red Fox - pretty together, too. Sounds like you enjoyed a pleasant day hunting & gathering an interesting assortment. Well done & thanks for sharing!

Two-for-one sale starts today at a favorite local nursery where gallons are the smallest sizes. Really need to weed today, but the siren sale song is calling to me...

Here is a link that might be useful: Icicle


clipped on: 07.11.2014 at 09:16 am    last updated on: 07.11.2014 at 09:16 am

RE: Should I cut the flowers off (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: vasue on 07.11.2014 at 08:37 am in Perennials Forum

Coral Reef acts the same as Cecily's Raspberry Wine here. Bees still visit the spent flowers after the petals fall, so usually don't deadhead, and doesn't seem to slow down blooming. Consider it optional & the spent heads are still decorative. Finches love the seeds & I love watching their swaying sideways antics, so no seedlings in the several years it's been here. Looks like yours is sending up new buds, Sparky. Remember the variety? Totally agree with LOTS of water even in this muggy climate, to sidestep mildew & stimulate growth & flowering.


clipped on: 07.11.2014 at 08:38 am    last updated on: 07.11.2014 at 08:39 am

RE: making big stone steps (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: elementalstone (Guest) on 03.07.2008 at 07:49 pm in Gardening with Stone Forum

Hi Stevedoug-
I am a stone mason just over in Asheville. It's always best to start steps at the bottom of your slope, as you get toward the top you can always choose the next stones you use to meet the final grade. You can also rent a transit at your local equipment rental and that will help you determine the exact hight you need to reach. I always dig a base below the frost line, around here it's around 6-8". Next put down a layer of small gravel on your subsoil, make sure you have hit packed clay. You can adjust the level of your step by adding or removing gravel. Give your steps a very slight downward pitch, this will keep water from collecting on them. Then just work your way up, packing gravel around the edges of the stones as you go. You can also over lap the front edge of the upper stone with the back edge of the bottom stone to provide greater stability. Good luck!


clipped on: 07.10.2014 at 01:28 pm    last updated on: 07.10.2014 at 01:28 pm

colorful brick path

posted by: purplemoon on 06.10.2009 at 02:23 am in Garden Junk Forum

I found this picture while 'browsing' during another sleepless night, LOL. How cool is this!
Sidewalk CHALK was used. (no info, but I would presume it was sealed to stay this way.)

hugs, Karen


clipped on: 07.10.2014 at 12:20 pm    last updated on: 07.10.2014 at 12:20 pm

RE: Ticks (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: plays_in_dirt_dirt on 04.04.2014 at 09:01 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

Here's my approach to tick bites:

Spray the tick with aerosol athlete's foot spray. The cheapest brand works fine. This will kill the tick, causing it to release and allowing you to remove it 100% intact (no imbedded head in your flesh).

Put a small dab of toothpaste on the bite area and you will have no itch.

Trust me, it works.

Barbara in Southern Virginia (bordering North Carolina)


clipped on: 07.10.2014 at 11:45 am    last updated on: 07.10.2014 at 11:45 am

RE: A Few Pics From Today (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: flower-frenzy on 06.12.2014 at 07:26 pm in Heuchera Forum

Heucherella 'Buttered Rum' is another one for great color. I also like the shape of the leaves. Kind of remind me of maple leaves.


clipped on: 07.10.2014 at 11:25 am    last updated on: 07.10.2014 at 11:25 am

RE: Climber not producing ANY blooms (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: vasue on 07.09.2014 at 05:03 pm in Antique Roses Forum

A pair of these new here this year, bought as 3-gallon pots in bud about 3 months ago. Still in their pots (need to shift the end plants of a hedge for room to plant them on an existing arch), they've put on 2' of height, additional basals & several laterals though the plants are highly upright. They were 5x2' at purchase, now 7x4', and are just finishing their third bloom cycle. Most of the blooms have appeared in sprays on the top third of branches, but lower laterals blooming this last time. In an ESE exposure, they get 7-8 hours of full sun beginning around 10am. Haven't done anything but water well daily & deadhead snap the spent flowers so far. No fertilizer, no spray & no problems. Daytime temps ranging from 50-98F. Will repot soon if I don't get to the hedge bit first. Really appreciating these so far for their vigor, health & fragrant bloom.

Since you got yours direct from Kordes, have you contacted them for advice? Any chance of a mix-up in the rose sent not being Golden Gate? Still, any rose could be expected to bloom by now in good conditions. Is yours getting enough sun & water to bloom? Might try a foliar feed of seaweed, which often stimulates reluctant roses here to come into bloom...


clipped on: 07.09.2014 at 05:05 pm    last updated on: 07.09.2014 at 05:12 pm

RE: Julio Iglesias at Home Depot (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: vasue on 07.09.2014 at 02:23 pm in Roses Forum

Surprisingly, found pairs of Kordes' Golden Gate climbers & Belinda's Dream shrubs at Lowes this Spring. Much greater variety than in recent years. They were offering truckloads of floribundas & hybrid teas at intervals, mostly out of patent classics but some newer patented ones as well. By this time of year, rose deliveries mostly over (sigh). Still check them out any time I'm in town, hoping they'll happily surprise again.

Looking for a replacement Fragrant Cloud this year, a couple of nurseries carried poor & neglected choices. Stopped at Lowes & came away with a great specimen, as well as one of the Smooth Touch roses (Smooth Angel) for a high-traffic spot on the back deck. Very pleased with this year's roses from Lowes. Golden Celebration came from there years ago before local nurseries offered it & continues to excel.


clipped on: 07.09.2014 at 02:30 pm    last updated on: 07.09.2014 at 02:30 pm

RE: Need advice on transplanting My Girl (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: vasue on 07.09.2014 at 01:34 pm in Roses Forum

A rose 7' tall will fit lying on its side. The cargo bed of my old Suburban is 4x8', with another 2' of narrow width going forward across the dashboard. Often transport plants that way. Confine the soil in the pot by slipping it into a shopping or trash bag & tying or taping it closed. If you can cinch in the branches, it will be easier to handle & protect them. This can be done with twine, an old sheet torn into long pieces, burlap, bubblewrap, trashbags cut down the sides, landcape fabric, household plastic wrap - whatever you have on hand that can be used to wrap the branches & be tied or taped closed. Think of the way Christmas trees' branches are tied when shipped to get a picture. Or you can stand the pot in the middle of an old sheet & pull opposite corners of the sheet to the top of the plant, tie or clip & repeat on the next set of corners. You can bundle with twine or masking tape or bungee cords or whatever over the sheet. You don't need to do this, but it helps limit any breakage by compacting a plant this way. You can use a box instead if you have one the right size to accomplish the same thing. You may have to slit the box down two or four sides to put in the plant, brace the pot itself in the bottom & tape the sides closed. Newspaper wadded around the plant in the box can help pad the branches.

If you've bundled the plant, it will be easier to load into the vehicle. (Plan on wearing a long-sleeved shirt & gloves for moving any rose!) Position the plant far enough away from the entry so when you tilt the plant it's top is aligned to go in. Towels or quilts or some type of padding will be useful bunched up across the width of the cargo space where you anticipate the top will rest once loaded. Usually load the top of the plant first so the pot is against the back doors, as it can take two people to load it pot-first & remove again. Stand sideways to the entry, tilt the pot toward your destination, grab hold of it with one hand cradling it on the side & the other on the bottom.Or you can hug the pot to lift it, bracing it against your torso. Lift & guide it into the cargo. A large piece of cardboard on the floor will help it slide forward. An open box around the pot once it's in will keep it from rolling, or anything else to brace it.

Sounds harder than it is! Tall plants at nurseries usually only get the sheet wrap & a box for the pot. (Okay, admit I carry this stuff & more in the back all the time. Never know what I'll chance upon that wants to come home with me.) Go get your (My) Girl!


clipped on: 07.09.2014 at 01:38 pm    last updated on: 07.09.2014 at 01:38 pm

RE: June 2014 In My Garden. (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: glengarry23 on 07.07.2014 at 06:32 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

Clematis,'Dorothy Walton'.


clipped on: 07.08.2014 at 09:29 am    last updated on: 07.08.2014 at 09:29 am

RE: Homestead Purple verbena blooming in other colors (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: vasue on 07.07.2014 at 08:35 pm in Perennials Forum

Since no one's jumped in yet, I'll give this a whirl.

Are you certain that the verbena sold to you is indeed Homestead Purple, or could it have been mislabeled? Have you contacted your supplier to find out more about this? Perhaps other plants marked HP have bloomed in the same manner.

Verbena can be propagated by cuttings or seeds. Cuttings will be identical to the mother plant, but seeds can be variable, especially if other varieties of verbena are growing nearby which may have cross pollinated, but even pollinated by the identical variety. A lone specimen of white Phlox paniculata David set seed here (so self-fertile) & one of the seedlings bloomed lavender. Checking to see if this was unusual, found David's Lavender, a sport of David introduced & patented by Itsaul Plants in Georgia. Assuming theirs originated in the same way as mine and has been continued from cuttings of the seedling (vegetative propagation), but it's possible the Lavender grew from a branch of David.

The link is to some varieties new for 2014. There's a slideshow & Lanai Twister Purple looks something like you describe. There may be others.

A sport usually arises as a branch different in growth on an existing plant & is considered a mutation. If cuttings from the oddball branch grow identically, and cuttings from those plants down the line, it's considered a stable mutation & can be considered a new variety. Sometimes a stable mutation will revert & show the characteristics of the plant from which the sport arose. That's all memory turns up on the subject, but others likely know more.

If you determine yours is a new variation, you could always fool around with cuttings to be sure it's stable. Don't know anything about patenting plants or selling distribution rights to such plants.

Rosie, how exciting to have met Dr. Armitage & how lucky to get a special plant before its official introduction!

Here is a link that might be useful: Verbena new for 2014


clipped on: 07.07.2014 at 08:38 pm    last updated on: 07.07.2014 at 08:38 pm

RE: Butterfly bushes and winter of 2014 (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: vasue on 07.07.2014 at 07:09 pm in Perennials Forum

Like Gardenweed, most everything here was considerably delayed in starting up after a tough Winter & on-again-off-again Spring. Our tall butterfly bushes are chance seedlings of one next door, so self sown, and we've never pruned nor deadheaded them in the 12+ years since they began. They must be 12' high at least & arch over another 4'. Began to be concerned when they hadn't leafted out by early June. A week later, leaves budded out all over & now they're in full bloom. Younger plants may require more time, having less resources upon which to draw. Wouldn't count them out.

Normally evergreen Sky Pencil holly's leaves freeze-burned & died from the extended cold. It releafed a month ago & no sign now that it ever suffered. Gardenias' leaves died, too, and are just now beginning to bud out from the original branches.

After many years of gardening, tend to give plants plenty of time to recuperate, having seen some arise from the ashes as much as a year later...


clipped on: 07.07.2014 at 07:12 pm    last updated on: 07.07.2014 at 07:12 pm

RE: Stumped by a Trellis Problem (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: vasue on 07.07.2014 at 01:32 pm in Perennials Forum

Bluestone, you might consider Poet's Jasmine - Jasminum Officinale - for those trellises. Hardy to zone 6, loves the sun, blooms from June to frost here in central VA. Loses its leaves most Winters, but the stems remain green so still ornamental in the cold & with deep blue/black berries. Lovely fragrance emitted that carries late afternoon through evening, or anytime you stick your nose close to the flowers. Not a heavy cloying perfume, but sweet & clean. Hummingbirds love them & so do I.

I'd wanted this for years & planted one in this garden 16 years ago that I'd grown from a cutting. Took off easily. There are several varieties, some with pale or variegated foliage that may have trouble in that baking position. I grow the dark green one, with hints of pink on the outside of the buds that open white. Logee's Greenhouse usually carries them, but website says sold out at the moment. Looking for a link, found this one for BC that sells gallons & ships till the 15th. Others found have mainly suspended shipping till September or on backorder. Brushwood carries it.

Here is a link that might be useful: Jasminum Officinale

This post was edited by vasue on Mon, Jul 7, 14 at 13:35


clipped on: 07.07.2014 at 02:04 pm    last updated on: 07.07.2014 at 02:04 pm

RE: blue danube hydrangea and full sun (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: vasue on 07.05.2014 at 10:24 am in Hydrangea Forum

Androidmom, your beds under the pines look ideal for them - great choice! Expect they'll thrive there, adding height & grace & color for many years to come. You can plant them out any time in such a location, without waiting for the weather to cool down. Keep them watered well & use your supply of fallen pine needles as mulch & they should settle in well. Juryrig a little temporary shade if they wilt during sun hours at first to help them take the change from pot to ground in stride.

Whatever the true identity of your hydrangeas (regardless of the labels), they'll bloom next year with the same flower form. The flowers' color may change to blue tones as the roots expand into garden soil, but consider the blue equally as beautiful as the rose. If they are mislabelled, their mature height & spread may differ from expectatons over time, but as long as you aren't planting them in a line like a hedge, that shouldn't much matter in that location.

Lowe's is infamous for mislabelled plants. Don't frequent HD but certainly believe others' reports the same is true there. Since both have generous return policies, often go ahead & buy to research at home if the plants are in short supply rather than checking before purchase when many are available, since appealing well-priced plants can be cleared out quickly. The hydrangeas tend to be among the most typically mistagged, but that can work in your favor if you're up on different varieties & can spot the oddballs. Sometimes rarer plants are marked as more common ones & priced considerably less than they would be if properly identified. Those of us who check the stock frequently often score in the thrill of the hunt. And many highly reputable nurseries send out mismarked plants, too.

Please keep us updated on the growth of your lovely hydrangeas!


clipped on: 07.05.2014 at 10:26 am    last updated on: 07.05.2014 at 10:26 am

RE: Exterior light fixtures that don't rust in salt air?? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: vasue on 07.03.2014 at 11:29 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Inland now, but lived on the Atlantic for years - solid brass, bronze, copper (not plated, but entirely that metal). Of these, brass is the least expensive & most traditional, used for centuries on coastal properties & boats. Best without a clear finish coat (usually lacquer) as that will quickly crack & discolor, requiring removal to polish. All will form a surface discoloration - patina - in a thin layer that actually protects the metal from deteriorating. First reaction is usually the pale greenish patina, which continues to darken over time to brown & then black.

If you prefer a bright shine rather than patina, you'll need to clean the fixtures in place at least twice a year. Get some inexpensive Barkeeper's Friend and Bon Ami powders. Both come in shaker cardboard cans, can be found in grocery & hardware stores with cleaning supplies & do a good job without a lot of mess or elbow grease. Like to use both dry on a damp rough cloth like terry washcloths sold in multiples for cleaning. Barely dampen the cloth, just enough to allow the powder to stick to it (spritz it with water), and rub over the surface. Turn the cloth to a clean section & apply more powder as you go. Start with the Barkeeper's to clean & follow with the Bon Ami to polish after cleaning. Just shake the powder onto the cloth or shake some into a dish & dip the cloth into it. Bon Ami does a great job on any glass, too, where the Barkeepers may be too rough. For the glass, use Glass Wax after cleaning to keep it clean. There are oils & waxes for the metals to delay tarnishing, if you like. Check at marine supply shops for these. A piece of paper, cardboard or masking tape can keep the surface where the fixture fits clean during the process. Loosen the screws that hold the fixture slightly to slip these behind. If you're really thorough, remove the screws one at a time, clean with the powders & an old toothbrush & replace. A toothbrush will help with any grooved parts on the fixture, too. Same process with other exterior brass such as doorknobs.

New solid brass can be pricey, but then again won't need to be replaced. Used brass fixtures are very reasonable. (Found a set of 6 large wall lights & a matching post light on Craigslist for $25 total that now grace this house after an initial cleanup.) If you're not comfortable rewiring older ones, lamp shops can do the job. Make sure to specify "exterior" wiring to hold up for damp & wet installations.


clipped on: 07.03.2014 at 11:35 am    last updated on: 07.03.2014 at 11:36 am

RE: Together (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: vasue on 06.30.2014 at 10:54 am in Hydrangea Forum

Springwood, this Together came in a 3-gallon trade pot - so actually 2.5 gallons or thereabouts & you are correct. Like dimensional lumber (the current 2x4 piece of wood is in reality a "nominal" measurement less than), a "trade" 3-gallon doesn't hold a "true" 3 gallons.

Nice buy on your mismarked Together!

This post was edited by vasue on Mon, Jun 30, 14 at 10:55


clipped on: 06.30.2014 at 10:57 am    last updated on: 06.30.2014 at 12:16 pm

RE: Together (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: vasue on 06.30.2014 at 10:44 am in Hydrangea Forum

Luis, sorry I wasn't clear - picked up a 3-gallon 2 months ago in bud & bloom. Searching this forum's posts, see folks were already growing it a few years back. Looking for feedback on growth habits, bloom cycles & length, siting, sun/shade exposure, overwintering with or without protection. Looking for a reality check!

How does Together grow and bloom in real gardens with actual weather? (Rather than professional websites spin, reports from the front line...)

Over the past two months, this one has grown quickly, still in its 3-gallon pot. Initially 18" high & wide, this morning it's 30" tall by 44" across. Buds & blooms from new wood are coming along now, the second round. This one can't take sun past 11 am - perhaps because the soil volume can't hold enough moisture to support all the extended growth even with daily thorough watering. But it's pushing new bloom with only 3 hours of morning sun. Working to figure out its happiest placement in the ground & trying out various "parking" spots in the meantime, feedback would be gratefully appreciated.

Overdue for a larger pot, on my way out for more potting soil. Like it so much, considering picking up another. Some still available locally a few days ago, literally loaded with buds & blooms.

So - does Together fall into the "tried & true" camp or get mixed reviews? Is Together a winner?


clipped on: 06.30.2014 at 10:57 am    last updated on: 06.30.2014 at 10:57 am

RE: Help with my Pistachio Hydrangeas (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: vasue on 06.29.2014 at 10:00 am in Hydrangea Forum

Hokierusty, I'd be hesitant to buy any hydrangea not in bloom, too. If in bud & returnable, would take a chance. Local Lowe's still has a couple 3-gallon Pistachios squished in with loads of new various arrivals, and remarkably they still look good under their care after sitting on the sale table for 6 weeks. Any at your Lowes? Really liking Pistachio - the buds & blooms just keep coming from every node, coral pink main color still, though some of the lavendar pincushion centers have morphed to blue as the older blooms age.


clipped on: 06.29.2014 at 10:01 am    last updated on: 06.29.2014 at 05:39 pm

RE: Hydrangea Collapsed under heavy rain. (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: vasue on 06.29.2014 at 11:17 am in Hydrangea Forum

Cadence, you have my sincere sympathy! Hailstorm did that kind of damage on a hydrangea in peak bloom.

If the branches are not broken off, splinting can sometimes allow them to mend. Same principle as splinting a broken bone. Materials used depend on the size of the stem. Often use plastic straws up to jumbo size or thin flexible plastic pipe for this. Either material can be cut to length to bridge the gap generously, opened to slip around the stem & taped closed around the stem in place. Several straws overlapped can surround a larger stem before sizing up to flexible pipe (really just a larger "straw"). Sometimes the branch needs to be supported vertically at the same time with a prop to take any horizontal pressure off the stem. Traditional splinting - using two or more rigid supports held in place - can use anything at hand - chopsticks, paint stirrers, plastic knives, taped to the branch to bridge the injured area. Worth a shot, simple enough to try.

Branches broken clean through can be planted at the base of the bush, elsewhere, in a pot, and will sometimes take if given shade, watered & misted. Also worth a try in my book. And you can always put them in vases in the house after cutting the bottoms cleanly. Many grow hydrangeas in cutting gardens just for this. Or dry them for everlastings. Kind of a "make lemonade" approach.

The twine support described by Springwood_Gardens is also traditional (time-tested) & effective, but my preference is to support branches of flopped plants with rabbit fencing or mesh support. Easier to do with less collateral damage during the process for those unfamiliar with the twine strategy & by one person unassisted. Rabbit fences are those foldable rigid wire green-painted ones with legs that push down into the ground. They come in at least two sizes - low & knee-high once installed. You can gather upright the branches on one side of the bush equal to one panel of the rabbit fence, hold it upright with your body & one arm, and push the fencing into the ground slightly with the other arm while bending over. Slant the fence towards the plant, since pressure from the branches tends to bow it out. Go around the bush unfolding & installing a panel at a time. Once you're satisfied with positioning, you can push all the legs in firmly. For a large flopping bush, you may need to corral the interior of the bush with the fence first & install another layer of fence around the outside.

Tomato cage supports - the metal wire vase cones on legs - can work, too. Usually put in before a plant grows, they can be clipped with wirecutters along one side to open & install after the fact & secured with zipties to hold closed. Two or more can be used end-to-end to surround a large plant, and they can be installed upside down, with the legs in the air, for a teepee cone with the legs held together at the top with ties or a ball & the bottom secured with soil staples. The wire spacing is large enough to fit individual branches through for support. If you have some trellises not in use, those can be put in around the plant for support, too, with the stems resting on the crosspieces.

Any of these are easily removed, since you're looking for a temporary support anyway, but will last a year or more if needed. Keep them handy myself for as-needed support to correct or prevent mishaps. You might console yourself somewhat that the bush still lives & will survive & outgrow this damage - helps a little to put in that perspective.

This post was edited by vasue on Sun, Jun 29, 14 at 11:24


clipped on: 06.29.2014 at 11:24 am    last updated on: 06.29.2014 at 11:27 am

RE: Help with my Pistachio Hydrangeas (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: vasue on 06.26.2014 at 11:30 am in Hydrangea Forum

Vinsone, do you mean South Dakota by SD? If so, follow the link below to find your hardiness zone. Looks like that would place you somewhere between 3b (-35) to 5b
(-15). Pistachio is only rated hardy to -20F. If you're in zone 5a (-20) or 5b, it may work for you if well-sited & heavily Winter protected. If not, you may have success growing Pistachio in pots overwintered in a garage or other shelter.

What size pots were your Pistachios in when you got them? Pot size often indicates the age of a plant, with smaller pots for younger plants. I'd be hesitant to plant anything less than a gallon directly in the garden myself. Many pot up smaller sizes into larger pots as they grow to give them the advantage of more controlled conditions till they're more mature, often growing them along in pots & planting out the following Spring after late frosts are past.

Depending on your zone, you may find your Pistachios able to adapt to 9-10 hours of sun as they get older, but that's a lot of sun. The tag that came with mine says morning sun, afternoon shade. In the meantime, if your zone allows for growing them in the open garden, shade them past noon while they're so young. Lawn chairs, cheap umbrellas stuck in the ground at an angle to deflect noonday sun, replaceable cardboard propped with stakes or any other juryrig that comes to mind & hand will do in a pinch. Agree with livrerosa's sound advice. If you have a "mist" setting on your watering handle, fine misting is helpful to hydrate the leaves when the rootmass isn't established or large enough to deliver moisture to them under stress. You can mist them in the morning before the sun hits and later under shade with positive benefits several times a day. Mulch helps protect the roots & lower the soil surface temp, but keep it from touching the stems.

Trialing two Pistachios in 3-gallon pots here in zone 7a central Virginia the past month, find them doing fine with 7 hours of full sun in daytime temps ranging from 70-98. They may take more hours of sun than that - haven't tried. Kept well-watered once a day, no scorch or wilt yet. Bought in bloom & bud, first flowers still fresh, original buds blooming & new buds coming along. With new additions of uncertain sun-shade preferences, like to keep them in pots for a season before planting early September or so, which this zone allows. That way they can be easily repositioned to change exposure if indicated. (The lazy gardener's way of finding their best spot.) These 3-gallons are ready to be moved to 5-gallon pots, and two 1-gallon mophead hydrangeas of other varieties bought late Spring have already been repotted to 3-gallons. You may find it easier to pot your Pistachios now, give them afternoon shade, and plant out again when they're more mature & able to handle your garden conditions.

Here is a link that might be useful: USDA 2012 zone hardiness map


clipped on: 06.26.2014 at 11:34 am    last updated on: 06.27.2014 at 01:17 am


posted by: vasue on 06.26.2014 at 04:31 pm in Hydrangea Forum

On the lookout for this since its introduction, found a gallon at Lowes in early May & 3-gallons later last month, all healthy specimens (newly arrived) in bud & bloom. Captivated by the creams, pinks & celery greens of the flowers, the old & new wood reblooming capacity, the promise of pale yellow-apricot-mauve tones as the blossoms age and the reasonable prices of $17 & $27, initially brought one of the smaller & then two of the larger home to audition for key garden positions. Hydrangeas in the pink range tend to blue here in acidic soil. Reluctance to mess with additives in mixed plantings makes Fantasia additionally appealling, not having turned up reports that it'll blue out. At least, not yet...

Observing these for the last 6-8 weeks, still potted, in various exposures, find the older, larger plants fine in ESE full sun exposure from 10-2 until the temps exceed 90. They don't wilt or burn or lose flower substance even at the 98 high we've hit, being watered well daily, but project a general air of unease at high temps. The younger, smaller plant didn't like that much sun from the get-go, being content in only 2 hours of sun yet still producing new buds & blooms. Like its older siblings, it didn't show obvious signs of sun fatigue. The Forever & Ever brand tag that came with them advises "partial shade" for zones 7-9 and "full sun to partial shade" in zones 5-6. So it looks like the morning sun/afternoon shade rule of thumb applies here for them at both ages. Finding myself unconvinced of hybridizers' claims till proven in this garden leads my reason for trialing new plants. Helpful prior to more permanent planting plus easier on me & the plants.

Since temps higher than the 90's can be anticipated in any given Summer, Fantasia's now become a candidate for spots where the sun shines earlier but not past noonish, opening up new possibilites to explore as the season progresses. Now wondering how little morning sun they may need to happily grow & bloom well. They're all ready to be transferred to larger pots, so will be placed in shade after repotting & advance into greater morning exposure from there, experimenting to find their minimums after determining their maximums.

Sun/shade mix being only one component in trying to find their best garden placement, now looking ahead to Winter weather patterns in various sites, which led to older posts & responses to cold. Springwood_Gardens, read you've grown Fantasia for two Winters now. From your reports at F&E's website & DG, appears Fantasia died back to the ground even in the milder weather year before last, and has been slow to resprout the last two Springs. After the pummeling the garden took this last Winter, perhaps over-cautious at this point, though usually pick plants rated two full zones (to 5a) lower to hedge my bets, since we've dropped to -7 for short periods here over the years. Any details you can add such as initial age of your plants, sun/shade & weather exposure, any protective seasonal measures, would be really helpful & much appreciated. Know you're usually colder than here (but so is Alaska & that wasn't true last year), but don't consider the 10 degrees between USDA's estimation of typical lows that much different between your garden & mine. In this clearing in the woods, plenty of strategic windbreak but little heatsink.

Calling all familiar with Fantasia - spill the beans! Is this mophead as fantastic as advertised, or is the fantasy part unrealistic expectations?

This post was edited by vasue on Thu, Jun 26, 14 at 17:28


clipped on: 06.27.2014 at 01:16 am    last updated on: 06.27.2014 at 01:16 am

RE: blue danube hydrangea and full sun (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: vasue on 06.26.2014 at 05:15 pm in Hydrangea Forum

Androidmom (great name!) your chances of doing so successfully may depend on which direction that location faces - whether you're talking morning or afternoon sun - and whether you're willing & able to provide plenty of water, often, for at least the first few years. An easterly exposure would be kindlier in that much sun. The brick of the house likely will absorb the sun's heat & bounce it out to make the site hotter. If the hydrangeas' leaves can grow in thickly enough & early enough in the Spring, they may block the brick from the sun before the sun becomes intense.

Not familiar with Blue Danube myself, not having grown it, but it is certainly beautiful & would be lovely blooming there. Do you expect your boxwoods to grow larger over time, or are they a small variety? You've probably already considered mature sizes of both, but just in case you haven't, good idea to look into the future. I've seen recommendations ranging from shade to full sun on this one, too. In my book, it all comes down to where & how much sun, which is seldom mentioned.

You might experiment to find out for yourself in your garden in that position, by leaving them in pots (sunk into the soil or sitting atop) & observing how they react to that exposure as the season heats up. Often do that here in central Virginia near Charlottesville, planting around early September if the plants' response reads good to go. (Rather hot now till then to transplant hydrangeas. Can be done successfully, but tougher on the plants.) You should know fairly soon if they'll be happy there with this method. If they're unhappy, much easier to consider another place for them without having to set them back by digging up & transplanting. Are these gallon plants or a larger size? Older more mature plants can often take more sun than their younger versions.


clipped on: 06.27.2014 at 01:15 am    last updated on: 06.27.2014 at 01:15 am

RE: who planted those *!@#ing morning glories?! (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: vasue on 06.24.2014 at 12:16 pm in Roses Forum

Only time planting morning glories was around 1980 when I fell for the picture on a seed pack of Flying Saucers, a blue & white pinwheel. They were glorious that year along an open lattice tall fence. However, the nearly forever seedlings bloomed dishwater gray! Must not have been a quirk, since they disappeared from the market soon after - only to reappear recently, touted as the rarest form...

After warning my son to be careful when siting morning glories for their enduring nature, he planted Heavenly Blue in a small bed to the side of the driveway bordered by a concrete slab patio along with grapes. They've only reappeared there for the 5 years since, and maintained the blue, so seems the hardscape's coralled them.

Find moonflowers more rewarding, and they've - unfortunately - only managed to reseed here once. Or maybe they do & the bunnies eat the sprouts before I can find them? Deer sure loved the moonflowers, so grew them in pots on the porch. The lone seedling spread along the base of the stone porch & never finding a leg up, made its way stretching along the base for 20' only a foot high & wide. Never would have occurred to me to plant a moonflower for that use, but it certainly made a charming low edging to the wall, like jim's morning glory border.

This post was edited by vasue on Tue, Jun 24, 14 at 12:18


clipped on: 06.24.2014 at 12:19 pm    last updated on: 06.24.2014 at 12:19 pm

RE: Pistachio Horwack (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: vasue on 06.04.2014 at 10:55 am in Hydrangea Forum

Thanks for chiming in! Appreciate the comeback ability of yours after that mown down Winter, Springwood! Need more with this trait of maintaining presence in the garden rather than slow to (we hope) regrow. French online source also reporting a very long bloom season, gardengal, in climate conditions similar to mine, along with Autumn leaf coloration - a little extra twist.

Found some web photos showing the coral pink of this one & descriptions from Europe noting medium pink with no mention of red. Curious to see whether this one will continue to express this colorway or move on to fire engine red. What shades did yours display, gardengal? Please both update when this year's blooms unfold.

Really like the smaller leaves set more closely & densely along the stems, in contrast to leggier examples, with the profuse smaller bloomheads in perfect proportion. Can see why its such a good candidate for containers, where its lateral tendencies would cascade over the sides without flopping. Thinking this characteristic may make it sturdier when the wind kicks up, as well. In the garden, wondering if it would naturally root along its lower reclining branches over time (or certainly could be assisted in doing so), to eventually form a "colony"?

So enamored with Pistachio, went back for a twin!


clipped on: 06.04.2014 at 10:57 am    last updated on: 06.23.2014 at 01:05 pm

Pistachio Horwack

posted by: vasue on 06.01.2014 at 01:42 pm in Hydrangea Forum

Searching through the posts, seems a few of you have been growing this for a year or so now. What do you think? Like gardengal, wasn't predisposed to like Pistachio, but find myself thoroughly intrigued by its charms in person. You can tell - one followed me home from Lowes in a large 2.25 gallon pot for $27 with the Forever & Ever label.

The "red" at this point is more a rosy pink with coral tones - not what I'd tag red at all. The "lime" green is what I think of as "new leaf" green or "Spring green", not approaching lime or chartreuse as some of the growers' photos show. The opening buds are pale green with the rosy coral pink radiating from the center & ribboning the edges. One of the heads is developing a lavender pincushion center. Expecting the coloration to deepen as advertised as the blooms age, but the colorway is currently much softer than anticipated & quite fetching with pink & coral roses blooming nearby. Like all these chameleons, Pistachio's coloring once established in acidic soil here a mystery unsolved till time tells.

Most impressive is the number of blooms unfolding - no less than 2 dozen, with as many more buds already swelling. Tiny buds uncounted just beginning to show on stem & branch growth at every node. Never seen a mophead this young so full of vitality, so eager to grow & bloom. Been sitting out in full sun the last week, daytime temps peaking between 70 & 90, without the slightest sign of wilt, fresh as the proverbial daisy. High hopes spinning here...

Previously released in Europe as Schloss Wackerbarth, can understand why its been renamed Pistachio here & Glam Rock in the UK, though Horwack is its registration name. Seems Forever & Ever as well as Ball under its Next Generation (Next Gen) line are the licensees in the US. Advertised as growing 3-4 x 3-5', reblooming (blooming on old & new growth) from June to October (till frost?) & hardy to zone 5.

So tell me the skinny - what's not to like?

Here is a link that might be useful: Pistachio/Horwack


clipped on: 06.01.2014 at 01:43 pm    last updated on: 06.23.2014 at 12:59 pm

RE: Do I dare try planting garden phlox (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: vasue on 06.22.2014 at 01:27 pm in Perennials Forum

The traditional defense to dining preferences of rabbits is one of those folding wire "rabbit" fences with legs set into the dirt, or something similar like wire mesh. They come knee-high & slightly shorter and can be used to protect a general area or just a specific plant. Useful, too, to corral floppy plants inconspicuously. More decorative permanent edging & fencing with non-squirmable spacing does the trick, with buried mesh to prevent digging underneath.

Surrounded by woodlands here ,with many rabbits & other wildlings, all with tummies to fill! Find surrounding the beds with plants they don't like deters them from exploring the interior. Lavender, monarda, salvia, heuchera, dusty miller & more work as edging. While waiting for plants to originally fill in, those rabbit fences come in handy! After that, I don't clear the foliage in the Fall even on those not evergreen - perhaps the oils in the leaves & stems continue to repel them or they've decided by then those beds are not interesting?

A few of the deer, a small minority of the several herds here, find perfumed phlox irresistible as they begin to bloom (ditto roses). Those are protected by lavender, agastache, others high in essential oils, thick floppy plants & those that obscure their footing. Deer here are very careful where they step while browsing & hesitant to risk where they can't see bare ground, reluctant to even jump into such unsafe territory. Even wire fences laid on the ground in plain sight on grass exclude them (but not the rabbits!), as do upright jumpable fences if the flower or veggie bed is long & narrow without a clearly visible landing place.

While redoing a 15x20' bed off the front walk last year, potting up some plants temporarily & leaving others, wound up with tempting open areas in the process. Set empty flower pots on bare soil to keep them from advancing into the bed, on the theory of unsure footing. Sure enough, it worked!

With all critters, seems a game of wits as much as one of claiming territory by strategy...


clipped on: 06.22.2014 at 01:27 pm    last updated on: 06.23.2014 at 12:48 pm

RE: Any experience with Verbascum 'Blue Lagoon'....? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: vasue on 06.22.2014 at 12:18 pm in Perennials Forum

Tried several of these over the years - Southern Charm, chaixii Album, phoeniceum - hoping they might do well in this damp climate since bird-sown common mullein (thapsis) thrives. Planted together on a slope for drainage in sun till mid-afternoon, each gave a half-hearted showing, as did their scant volunteer seedlings, and petered out after a few years. Ah, well, nice try, no go.

Weeding around in a mixed perennial bed in another area this Spring, noticed a vaguely familiar seedling & left it for later ID, watching it grow quickly & lushly. Once it began to bloom, finally recognized it as verbascum. Which one - a mix from the former site, wildling, sown by a bird? This mystery's shot up to 30x20" & thrown a dozen spikes whose flowers are clear pale apricot yellow with lavender bosses. Gives the effect of a multiple clump rather than a loner. Could it be chaixii, nigrum or blattaria? Whatever its identity, most welcome, and obviously happy in this overly rainy site & season. Rich clay-based loam where it stands, kept moist for the roses & companions. Somehow had the idea they preferred leaner & drier soil - maybe that's where I went wrong in the past?

Delighted at the serendipity & hoping it will stick around & reproduce. Found a Southern Charm at the rear of the pot ghetto. (How many years has that been hiding there?) Given a larger pot & rich soil, it's now ready to bloom. High interest in the charms of this tribe peaking again...

Swoon for wowser Blue Lagoon - thanks for putting it on my radar! Not turning up in stock on mailorder sites, know of any? May have to make the local nursery rounds in search of this beauty. (Better yet, call around, since my seasonal resistance is weakening, what with the denizens of the pot ward imploring me to find earth homes for them & not let newcomers jump the line.) Lucky ones with Blue Lagoon, do tell how they do for you!


clipped on: 06.22.2014 at 01:29 pm    last updated on: 06.23.2014 at 12:47 pm

RE: Is rose on own root better than grafted rose? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: vasue on 06.23.2014 at 11:18 am in Roses Forum

Here's a video where a well-respected rosarian explains & illustrates his thoughts on the subject. I've come to favor ownroot over grafted for the reasons he mentions & also find them healthier in general & more graceful as plants. Mulching & protecting an ownroot rose it's first Winter is the same for me as any perennial planted that year, and I'm in a warmer zone.

Seems the roses offered ownroot are those that do well on their own roots. Tend to buy gallon sizes, usually older more established plants, and larger if available.

Here is a link that might be useful: Paul Zimmerman Difference Grafted & Ownroot


clipped on: 06.23.2014 at 12:04 pm    last updated on: 06.23.2014 at 12:04 pm

RE: Gossipy Question for Longtime Posters (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: vasue on 06.23.2014 at 12:02 pm in Roses Forum

"Sometimes when I have the most to say about my garden, I am too busy to say it." - Sammy

Think you answered your own question! Gardens in full swing, schools out, lots of warm weather activities & pools open, long days & lots to do can make it quieter here. Checking in when it rains, at breakfast, after supper, on several gardening forums besides Roses.

Sorry to hear your roses aren't thriving - aftermath of this past Winter? With all the rain & up-down hot-cool, the weeds are growing faster than the garden here!


clipped on: 06.23.2014 at 12:02 pm    last updated on: 06.23.2014 at 12:02 pm

RE: OH NO! how can I save these guys? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: vasue on 06.23.2014 at 12:27 am in Roses Forum

Suspect teasing the roots apart is the initial problem for that four-in-one rose & your potting recipe, method & pots themselves poor choices. Am I understanding correctly that these all came from greenhouse conditions? If so, would have been a good idea to gradually transition them to outdoor realities to help them adapt before considering repotting or messing with them in any way, pretty much a rule of thumb for all plants newly coming out of greenhouse controlled environments. After successfully transitioning them to outdoor conditions, let them grow on in peace until they show additional growth without problems, indicating they've adapted & stabilized. At that point, you can work with them and their needs toward your goals. If you plan to add them to other plants in a mixed pot, you can do that then. Otherwise, no need to repot to a larger size unless & until their roots have filled & are beginning to crowd their original pot. You can slip their pot into a more decorative one for looks.

For future reference - if you prefer the lush full pot look the multiples were intended to provide, leave them be & treat as one plant. If you want to transplant the individuals in the multiple pot, wait at least until they've transitioned & stabilized as above to do so, and disturb the roots as little as possible in the process. Here's one method that works for me. Prepare by watering well a few hours or the night before dividing. You want the soil moist but not soggy, able to hold together without falling apart or crumbling. Set yourself up in the shade with your new pots & potting mix at hand. Using a sharp knife long enough to cut through the soil in a smooth motion without sawing, cut an x in two strokes across the pot leaving each plant centered in its section, as if cutting a cake into four equal pieces. Slide the knife down around the inside of the pot as if you were loosening a cake from its pan. Remove (I actually use a pie/cake server to do this) & pot each slice & water gently but thoroughly to settle them in. If the new soil sinks down below the slice's outline, top it up & water again until it's even. If they're sun or part sun plants, keep them in the shade for a few days to reduce any stress of dividing. Have done this successfully with mini roses several times, as well as other types of plants, but only tried when the stems were spaced in the original pot far enough apart to allow this, not when crowded together in the center.

Agree with other sound advice about immediate remedial repotting, potting mix, shade, frequent fine misting & not fertilizing new plants or transplants for reasons given. See no point for a sand layer below the soil or the mulch at the bottom, and imagine the mulch will absorb water & rot to the detriment of the plant. Which brings me to the pot itself. Looks like terracotta clay, whether glazed outside or wet can't tell. Terracotta absorbs a lot of water & can leave plants thirsty as well as wicking moisture from the soil. It has its advantages as well, but wouldn't recommend them for new gardeners. When using them with plants that need even moisture, they need to be initially soaked in a pail or sink of water until bubbles stop rising & then some to fully saturate them. After planting, you need to water the pot & the soil each time you water. You can tell when the soil & pot need to be watered again by rapping your knuckles against the side of the pot. A hollow sound like a ripe watermelon indicates excessive dryness & a dull rap signals adequate moisture. Water slowly till the surface below the pot is wet, then come back & water again a few minutes later. Once for the pot & twice for the plant. Another learning curve best left for another day. Use them for slip pots if you will, leaving room between your actual pot & the sides of the terracotta to prevent possible heat transfer.

No one to ask & no idea what questions were appropriate when I began gardening, then-timid me checked out a lot of library books on cultivation each time a new step was contemplated (very pre-internet). Advice was often contradictory from one author to the next. Muddled through, finding what succeeded, following the reasoning behind each treatment & remedy & building confidence.

Believe most gardeners have managed to unintentionally lose a lot of plants along the way - know I have! - as well as learning from goof-ups & salvaging a good many struggling ones back to health. Welcome to the ongoing journey of always-more-to-learn that makes gardening so fascinating & so rewarding!

This post was edited by vasue on Mon, Jun 23, 14 at 0:29


clipped on: 06.23.2014 at 12:35 am    last updated on: 06.23.2014 at 12:35 am

RE: The Lesser Of Two Evils (fungicides) For Black Spot (Follow-Up #57)

posted by: vasue on 06.22.2014 at 07:18 pm in Roses Forum

Usually skip this subject since I've no experience with sprays besides some traditionals like sulfur & copper used many moons ago on fruit trees. Given my ignorance & the range of opinions, hesitant to even stick a toe in these waters, but (here we go) feel the need to share some thoughts.

We all acknowledge we can't grow some roses as perennials in the open garden due to intrinsic climate & site unsuitability, available space & individual practical considerations at any given time. We intentionally eliminate some roses from consideration for not meeting our bloom & growth preferences. Of those we do select, some will self-eliminate despite our care or be rejected down the road for not living up to expectations or no longer appealing as our tastes change.

The most critical of my criteria for choosing any rose is its reputation for health & vitality in conditions similar to my own. Gardening more than 50 years in typically humid & fungal prone locations zoomed this to the top of the list long ago. Heavy physical reactions to all the "-cides" except elemental since childhood prohibits their use, as does my philosophical worldview. So I garden the old-fashioned way, pre sophisticated chemical compounds, by necessity.

From my point of view, the health potential of any plant is expressed by positive response to its environment - nature vs. nurture - and the availability of the elements & conditions it needs to thrive tilt the odds to favor this expression. We all know moving a shaded rose into more sunlight often "cures" its blackspot outbreak, athough fungal exposure hasn't changed, and that roses sometimes outgrow these outbreaks with maturity. Believe boosting the plant's immune system by helping nature provide those essentials allows it to function optimally on its own, so concentrate my efforts on these aspects. (Same principles as human health. Incidentally, fortify my immune function with the internal products of plants' immune systems - essential oils - borrowing from the plants as it were, the core of traditional botanical medicine.)

When we first came to this garden 16 years ago, it had been installed & maintained by a college groundskeeper for 7 years on heavy-duty chemical prevention principles. Extensive shrubbery had been maintained with yearly chunky woodchips atop that of prior applications - 6" worth suffocating the soil without deteriorating though covered in sour-smelling fungus. Couldn't find a worm wherever I dug outside the woods & not a bug, good or bad, in evidence besides mosquitos, flies & chiggers. The few roses were dwindling away under this treatment, bare shadows of their potential. Reversed that trend with organic husbandry & the worms returned. Fed the beneficial microorganisms that fed the worms that till & aerate the soil & the soil web reestablished itself to create an environment in which suitable plants can thrive. For years now, the gardens have welcomed a wide variety of inhabitants that appear to have found an interwoven balance with which I'd be loath to meddle. Beneficials & birds keep the ruffians in check most seasons with an assist from the hose. One year the garden club girls (one fellow joined as I was leaving) spent an entire initial meeting exclaiming about decimation the Japanese beetles wrought over the Summer. Apparently no one believed my surprise & report that only a few spotted here that season not far from their gardens, or they might have wondered what could be different here...

Many roses brought in over the years, some with blackspot or mildew from travel stress, so likely a mix of farflung varieties present. Most got over it, as have those which arrived this humid rainy season, including a spotted Buff Beauty bought locally. Fungals show up here & there in small bouts with minor fleeting consequence (knock on wood).

Still not brave enough to intentionally choose roses not known for their good health, some of those with mixed reviews doing well. Those among the dear departed were dispatched by deer, storms, cold, neglect & seeming suicide. Shovel pruned 2 for RVR. In my book, really not a bad record for all the years & varieties attempted. Saved a lot of bucks & effort counted up over time, alternately spent on new plants & garden stuff. But then, an admittedly lazy gardener relying on simple methods to support health, the weather gods (as do we all) & beneficial energies...

Longwinded way of saying it can be done - growing roses naturally in the humid fungus-ridden Southeast - by way of encouragement to those considering a change of method & solidarity with those already doing it, too.

This post was edited by vasue on Sun, Jun 22, 14 at 19:34


clipped on: 06.22.2014 at 07:35 pm    last updated on: 06.22.2014 at 07:35 pm

RE: new addition (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: vasue on 06.20.2014 at 04:06 pm in Perennials Forum

Maybe one of the "Flame series" phlox paniculata? These are dwarfs at 20" tall & come in a wide assortment of named colors with high mildew resistance & prolonged bloom beginning earlier than taller (3-5') phlox. Not usually a fan of minnied classics, find myself appreciating these for their retention of that sweet phlox fragrance, their versatility where their taller brethren would be too large & their kindred ability to lure the fliers - hummingbirds & hummingbird moths, butterflies, bees.

Tried a couple of the Early Start pink ones last year - Pink & Light Pink. Like them, but wanted something with a bit more height & heft. Added Blue Flame this year, a bicolor with blueish buds that open to white flowers marbled with the color of the buds. The individual florets are as large as tall phlox, though the flowerheads are shorter to match the proportion of stems, which are densely clothed with leaves. Lots of presence & flower power early to late. Would like to find Flame Coral and White next...

Yours looks a bit like Flame Lilac in the link below. Clicking "previous plant" & "next plant" will show a number of these Flames & other dwarfs. In the shorties, there's also the Early Start series, the Junior series, the Pixie series & more.

Here is a link that might be useful: Short phlox paniculata


clipped on: 06.20.2014 at 04:18 pm    last updated on: 06.20.2014 at 04:18 pm

RE: Bee Balm blooming! (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: vasue on 06.17.2014 at 05:21 pm in Perennials Forum

Not a true fan of monarda until a chance meeting with Coral Reef. Intrigued by its striking coral pink fluffy blooms & full foliage, planted a gallon in clay-based loam on a slight slope in a mixed perennial bed four years ago. Wowed by its bloom power & health, now wouldn't be without this super performer.

A cross between Mahogany & Marshall's Delight from the Morden Research Center in Canada, find it grows 30" high here, has widened to to 20" at the base over time without encroaching on its neighbors & blooms from mid-June past frost. (A little late this year from an on-again off-again Spring, expect it to be in full bloom by the first of July.) No reseeding so far, believe because the finches relish its seedheads left standing decoratively over the winter. Hummingbirds & butterflies swarm the hundreds of blossoms. Bees love it so much they continue to visit & feed on pollen from the spent flowers, so rarely deadhead yet the blooms keep coming. Hummingbird moths frequent it in the evenings. One of the busiest destinations for the many fliers, seems a perpetual stage for the aerial ballet during its long bloom season.

Wand water that bed regularly if rainstorms don't oblige, never letting it completely dry out, and no problem with mildew in this hot muggy garden where it enjoys an outside edge position in 6-8 hours of sun beginning early in the morning. The saturated coral goes well with the fruit salad colors of many of its neighbors as well as the silvers, whites, blues & pastels of general companions, and doesn't disappear in subdued light. One of its interesting traits is the blossoms continue to expand after opening till they become pompom shaped, loaded with petals. Love this one & highly recommend!

(Edited to add: Deer & bunnies leave this alone. In fact, it "guards" roses behind it in the same manner as lavender.)

Here is a link that might be useful: Coral Reef

This post was edited by vasue on Tue, Jun 17, 14 at 17:26


clipped on: 06.17.2014 at 05:29 pm    last updated on: 06.17.2014 at 05:29 pm

RE: name any rogue seedling that ended up a valuable plant (Follow-Up #34)

posted by: vasue on 06.08.2014 at 07:03 pm in Perennials Forum

Seems every year at least one mystery plant turns up. If I can't identify a seedling as a weed, leave or pot it up till it blooms. A Virginia spiderwort (Tradescantia) that flowers a striking shade of blue appeared a few years back in a sunny bed. Left it to make a nice clump before relocating it to shade at the foot of a maple clump on a slope. Promptly died back to regrow the following Spring. Imagine the maples' fibrous roots & natural leaf mulch keep it from spreading, and the blue is quite refreshing glittering from the shade.

Last year seedlings emerged for the first time near the lone phlox David. Potted up, one bloomed lavender - David's Lavender. Another time, a different looking wispy grass clump showed up with delicate stems that only reach a few inches high & wide, producing a cloud of pale pink flowers at the top like miniature Gypsophilia from Spring till frost. No idea what this is, looks like it may have originated in fairyland. Left to grow & seed, it turns up within a 20' radius of the original each year.

A small bushy plant with deep green leaves appeared one year. Not recognizing it, left it to grow, as it seemed so happy. When it formed a 2' ball, decided it needed to be moved & found a spot in the backyard overlooked by the kitchen windows near a post birdfeeder. An old peach tree blown down in a storm had provided shelter for the birds there & thought the bush might do the same. The bush certainly took to its new spot. The next year, a slender trunk appeared out of nowhere to elevate the ball. Ten years later, it's a 20' high graceful tree, teeming with birds from dawn till dusk. Haven't found another like it in the woods for miles around, nor found its identity. We're in the migratory path for birds & an overnight waystation, so perhaps one gifted it to us on their way through.

Many more surprises through the years. So far this season, a sturdy seedling that looked vaguely familiar left in place quickly reached two feet high by a foot wide. Began to bloom yesterday, pale yellow with lavender pincushion centers - Verbascum. Grew its forebearer many years ago in another garden bed, but that one never returned the following year. The first was pale melon with lavender eyes. Is this one a seedling or a wildling? Regardless, serendipity always welcome!


clipped on: 06.08.2014 at 08:26 pm    last updated on: 06.08.2014 at 08:26 pm

RE: arggh - i hate being stupid!! (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: prairiemoon2 on 06.07.2014 at 09:03 pm in Roses Forum

I ordered Organic Alfalfa Meal from FEDCO this year and it's a nice, easy to apply powder that you can use to put a thin sprinkling of it if that's what you want to do. I had the pellets and they expand so much when they are wet that I found it hard to get the right amount in the right place, so I looked for something else. FEDCO was the first place I found organic alfalfa.


clipped on: 06.08.2014 at 09:48 am    last updated on: 06.08.2014 at 09:48 am

Does anyone grow Cl. America?

posted by: Sara-Ann on 11.19.2013 at 07:07 pm in Roses Forum

This is a picture of Climbing America that I took in September. I came across it last night when I was looking at the rose pictures I took over the summer. I am falling in love with this it, I didn't know it could be this lovely, I've had it for several years and it finally decided to do its thing. I am looking so forward to it blooming profusely. Does anyone have full bush shots and comments about this rose. Earlier in the season I had posted another picture of it and said it had escaped being shovel pruned, because it finally decided to bloom. Right now I am in awe of it.


clipped on: 06.08.2014 at 09:30 am    last updated on: 06.08.2014 at 09:30 am

RE: Best climbing roses for Pennsylvania (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: harryshoe on 01.27.2013 at 11:16 am in Roses Forum

Westerland grows well here (near Allentown) as a climber. It reblooms throughout the season and even includes a decent fragrance. Blooms open orange but fade to a yellow/coral blend. Winters here (low around 0) don't cause much dieback. Canes have reached 12'. I spray a Bayer fungicide about once per month which keeps Westerland clean.