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RE: marble (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: boxerpups on 04.25.2011 at 07:00 am in Kitchens Forum

Oh dear, I am an idiot. You said MARBLE. Lame brain
here. What the heck is going on with me?
To many Easter eggs on my brain?
Senior moment ???? but I am still a freshman!!!!

I am not sure if you can use alcohol on honed marble.
I think you can but now I am concerned that I just blew
it. Don't do it. Wait...

Here is what I did find.

GW cleaning Marble
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg042321386750.html

From Marble Care
........." Marble is a calcareous stone which is composed mainly of calcium carbonate. It is sensitive to acidic cleaning products and frequently requires different cleaning procedures than siliceous (Granite) stone. What may work on siliceous stone may not be suitable on calcareous surfaces. Marble is a softer stone than granite and will scratch and stain more than granite. Not all marbles are composed equally, meaning some marbles contain more talc than others therefore are softer. A honed finish (where the marble polish has been removed) is more susceptible to scratching and staining due to the open pores of the stone. Honed Marble counters should be sealed with a stone impregnator sealant......."

Apartment Therapy
http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/ny/good-questions/good-questions-why-not-do-white-marble-kitchen-countertops-008987


I am hoping a far more clever, intelligent soul will
chime in to help you.
~boxerpups
(if I had a tail it would be hanging low)

Here is a link that might be useful: Cleaning honed marble


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clipped on: 05.22.2011 at 10:12 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2011 at 10:12 pm

RE: Resurfacing marble at home -- can be done (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: sayde on 05.02.2011 at 08:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi, just to clarify -- marble was polished when slabs came from Marble & Granite in Massachusetts to the fabricator. The fabricator "honed" them -- I suspect using just acid. The acid etched them very unevenly.

So they came to us matte but very rough in places with splotches, drip marks and swipe marks. I think one of the keys is to use the Abranet fiber disks that we used and to go over it lightly, again and again. I was just amazed that we could get all the swipe marks out and get it even. Go around and around, not back and forth, and keep the touch light.

I am ashamed to admit that I still cannot figure out how to post but I promise that once we get the backsplash and island done I will make pictures available -- may-be someone will post for me? I do have a few pictures from before we did the rehoning and you can see the ugly marks -- all gone now.


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clipped on: 05.22.2011 at 09:51 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2011 at 09:52 pm

Resurfacing marble at home -- can be done

posted by: sayde on 05.02.2011 at 06:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our marble slabs were originally polished when they were received by the fabricator. Those who read previous threads know that when we received them they were horribly botched -- uneven rough patches and very visible swipe marks. Looked like acid was used, and a very poor job of it.

I had been wary of choosing marble because of the possibility of etching. Now, we were confronted with marble that had been unevenly and severely etched all over, and we had to decide how to proceed.

We did recover some funds from the fabricator.

And then DH rehoned the marble himself. He used 5 inch diameter 320 grit Abranet pads on an orbital sander. He followed by going over the surface with pumice. It took about an hour for the first pass and then we went over some of the areas again. The marble became silky smooth and even, while retaining the matte honed appearance. We finished with two coats of sealer.

I'm posting because I was one of many who feared getting marble in the first place because of the etching. There is no doubt that it will etch in future, but I wanted to share that it can be resurfaced.

I love the Danby marble. I feel much less worried going forward seeing how it can be brought back to a perfect smooth honed surface. Just wanted to share this with others who want marble but are concerned about etching.

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clipped on: 05.22.2011 at 09:47 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2011 at 09:47 pm

RE: Let's see your window seats (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jolsongoude on 01.30.2011 at 03:23 pm in Building a Home Forum


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clipped on: 02.06.2011 at 10:49 pm    last updated on: 02.06.2011 at 10:49 pm

Finished pics - Creamy white, stained island

posted by: marmoreus on 01.25.2011 at 11:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is long overdue (we finished at the end of last August), but I wanted to thank all you Kitchen forum members for the great help. Thank you, thank you!!! I've really appreciated all the great information on this site. It has been such a helpful resource as we built a house for the first time.

On to the pictures.

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

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Photobucket

So far the kitchen is working out really well for us. Other than not loving the performance of my wall oven, I am happy with how it all turned out.

The details:

Perimeter cabinets: Decora (Chantille finish on maple)
Island cabinets: Sorrento (Hermosa finish on alder)
Backsplash: Walker Zanger Gramercy Park (Heirloom White and Pipe Smoke)
Granite on perimeter: Antiqued Nordic Black (love this!)
Granite on Island: Alaskan White
Pendant lights: Schoolhouse Electric
Knobs & pulls: Amerock Highland Ridge
Barstools: Restoration Hardware (bought during Friends & Family sale--20% off--yay!)
Wall color: BM Revere Pewter
Flooring: walnut w/ Waterlox finish
Sink: Shaw's farmhouse sink
Sink faucet/soap dispenser: Danze Opulence
Range: NXR
Wall oven: Kitchenaid
Fridge: Bosch
Dishwasher: paneled Bosch
Micro: cheapo GE

Thanks again!

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clipped on: 01.29.2011 at 10:00 pm    last updated on: 01.29.2011 at 10:01 pm

How not to build a pantry

posted by: bmorepanic on 09.24.2010 at 06:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

First, always have a plan - this was mine.

1. Above all, don't transfer the marks for the studs onto your newly installed drywall. This enables you to make a cool home built tool from a wire coat hanger called a "stuff finder". Cut the straight piece of wire off, bend a triangle on one end leaving a longish piece of straight wire.

2. Take your photos of the framing and try to find something with your stuff finder. You'll use it to poke holes in the drywall to find your stuff in the walls. Try not to worry too much about electricity - after all, if you can't find the studs, the odds are just as good that you won't find the electric lines either.

3. When you find one thing, poke some extra holes to be sure of what you've found.

4. Draw the thing you found on the wall as shown in the photo.

5. Transfer your plan onto the wall and find out it won't fit. Change the plan at the last minute - always good for fun.

6. Do a test assembly of one wall. Haul it upstairs. Be brave and get out some test items - even tho its just put together with a couple of finish nails and not even attached to the wall. This doesn't have all of its parts yet, but you get the idea.

7. Test assemble the other wall and haul it upstairs.

8. Meditate on the differences between ideas and reality when you realize there is no possible way to assemble the two sections to each other. The Tao of two large objects that nest together in a tiny space. Haul it all downstairs.

9. Change the plans in mid-do. Thank the deity of your choice that its just put together with a couple of finish nails while you take it all apart, shorten all the shelves slightly and rip the unseen back corners off the long uprights so they will be able to twist into place.

10. Change the plans one last time for that one shelf spacing issue that was bugging you. Haul it all back upstairs

11. Retest the assembly of the two wall shelf units to each other. Haul it all back to the basement.

12. Take it all apart and screw it all back together.

13. Add the under shelf support trim and screw to shelves.

14. Haul it all back into place and make sure it still fits.

15. Pre drill the supports for the screws that will permanently attach the units to the walls. Haul it all downstairs.

16. Apply primer and wish you didn't have to now sand it all.

17. Realize that the piece of 1 x 8 you have left for the tippy top shelf is too short by 1 inch.

18. Quit for the day.

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clipped on: 09.25.2010 at 07:46 am    last updated on: 09.25.2010 at 07:47 am

RE: Garage door budget (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: enigmaquandry on 08.04.2010 at 01:15 am in Building a Home Forum

When we redid our garage we wanted a carriage-style door but also didn't want to spend the money, have you considered just getting a standard profile and buying hinges/handles for it separately? Our "redo" cost all of $30...again I'm not sure if you're interested but this would probably be the bottom line of getting the look you want, especially if you're painting the doors anyway!

From Stonegate Cottage

after

From Stonegate Cottage

They don't have the custom look necessarily of carriage doors but it could get you some more wiggle room in your budget, just a thought!

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clipped on: 08.09.2010 at 05:06 pm    last updated on: 08.09.2010 at 05:07 pm