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OT--Shower design help (sorry, sorry)

posted by: breezygirl on 04.12.2011 at 05:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

I apologize for the OT thread, but I'm hoping some of the pity for my crappy birthday yesterday will extend to forgiveness for this post.

I mentioned that I need to figure out my shower design for my new master bathroom so I can order a shower floor to install during the rough-in. I've been struggling with the floor material--acrylic, cast iron, or tile--and the size.

DH and I had a long talk and looked at pictures online last night. We like the idea of a tiled shower floor. We've never had any tile in any bathroom we've ever lived in so we don't fully understand the maintenance aspect of tile and grout. There will be lots of tile in the new bath anyway so maybe a bit more won't matter.

We also like the looks of a shower with a half wall/pony wall along part of it with glass above joining a glass door. Similar to this picture Lavender posted yesterday.

Shower with pony wall

Here's my bathroom layout. The red rectangles along the shower would be the pony walls with glass above. The space between the red areas would be the glass shower door.

Bathroom with pony wall 4-12-11

Questions

1. Shower floor. If you have tile on the shower floor, do you like it or do you regret not choosing a solid surface?

2. Pony wall. Would the pony wall idea be stupid in a not-so-big bathroom like this? Is it a maintenance nightmare? Do fancy designers only do this in bathrooms for show?

Thank you again for your birthday wishes yesterday and for help with this!

NOTES:

Shower Guard glass treatment
clipped on: 04.17.2011 at 05:28 pm    last updated on: 04.17.2011 at 05:28 pm

What is the best way to clean my new stainless appliances?

posted by: hungryheart on 02.27.2011 at 09:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

I realize that I am about to join the world of fingerprints - Yikes!

In Bed Bath today - the manager wanted me to buy some super duper cleaner and microfiber cloths but I didn't purchase anything (well, not cleaning related, anyway) yet. Is it microfiber or chamois that I am supposed to use? And the cleaner?

NOTES:

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clipped on: 03.04.2011 at 02:35 am    last updated on: 03.04.2011 at 02:45 am

backsplash advice, please

posted by: elz_kitchen on 01.23.2011 at 07:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm thinking of getting a matchstick glass tile mosaic for my backsplash, but it's 1/8-inch thick and I'm wondering if it's going to be durable. There's a lot of grout, will that be a maintenance problem?

There are two adults, no kids, in the household. We both like to cook.

The tile is Artistic Tile's Satchmo Sticks in Coltrane Cream, we'll probably include a few contrasting tiles as accents.

Also, is there anything I should talk over with my installer about this tile? Thanks!

Here is a link that might be useful: Artistic glass matchstick

NOTES:

Grout and Thinset recs
clipped on: 01.25.2011 at 09:16 pm    last updated on: 01.25.2011 at 09:17 pm

Advice from a hardwood rep for those shopping

posted by: boxers on 01.31.2006 at 01:33 pm in Flooring Forum

I've contributed to this forum for well over one year. I used to be a district manager for Armstrong Wood Products. We made and distributed Bruce, Hartco and Robbins. I see the same questions over and over again. What brand is best? is my favorite. You all need to realize that no one makes 100% of their own products these days. Mohawk doesn't own a sawmill, they buy wood from many sources. Bruce imports some and so do most other brands. Engineered wood comes as single plank or strips or as a 'plank' with 3 or 4 rows of 'wood' shown. In other words there are multiple varietys of 'engineered'. Wear layer is not that important. It would take a lot of 'walking' to walk thru the finish down to the wood. Prefinished wood can be recoated and won't need to be resanded. Solid isn't neccessarily better than engineered just because its thicker. Many of you seem to worry excessively about scratching, dogs etc. No one warrants against scratching etc. Your happiness will be based on finding a product that has some graining and character to help mask a problem. Laminate floors can not be refinished in any way. Laminate have a picture of wood and are not the same as engineered floors. If buying hardwood or carpet were as easy as saying buying x is the best we wouldn't be discussing all this. Education is hard but its possible to educate yourself. Best thing is to see a product installed and go with something you like. Aluminum oxide finishes are far more durable than site finished floors. This fact is from testing those products in a lab not from marketing BS. I wish I had some simple site for you to go and get your questions answered. Its a slow process I understand, but because someone posts a warning about some brand being good or bad means very little as each brand has multiple variations of the same product so it means little unless you have excactly the same. Everything has tradeoffs. What you are willing to accept may be different from the next person. I hope this helps somewhat.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.03.2011 at 11:50 pm    last updated on: 01.03.2011 at 11:50 pm

If you love your knives, please share

posted by: kayl on 09.21.2010 at 05:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

I would have thought I could find a previous post on this, but didn't find anything in the search. Does anyone have a knife set that they love & would recommend? Also, if you have a knife manufacturer that we should stay away from please share. Thanks!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 11.13.2010 at 06:35 pm    last updated on: 11.13.2010 at 06:35 pm

options to polish/enhance sealed travertine

posted by: swngdncr on 09.29.2009 at 10:41 pm in Flooring Forum

Wondering what options there are to enhance a travertine floor that has already been sealed. Our floor was sealed with Dupont's Bullet Proof about 2 yrs ago. The existing sealer is still working, water does not get absorbed by the tile. Nevertheless, we tried a test area of applying the enhancing sealer to the tile, just to see what happened. It actually appeared to work, the tiles appear "enhanced" compared to the ones with only the Bullet Proof. Before we go forward, wanted to see if those in the know think it is ok to apply the enhancing sealer on the previously sealed tile, or if there is another option to get that look that the enhancing sealers provide. I see that Bona Kemi has a "polish" for natural tile, which sounds like it might do the trick. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

NOTES:

StoneTech - Bulletproof sealer
clipped on: 10.23.2010 at 04:02 am    last updated on: 10.23.2010 at 04:03 am

RE: Anyone have Bianco Romano? Pics? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: maidielou on 10.20.2010 at 07:23 am in Kitchens Forum

Txpepper- the sealer was made by StoneTech and aptly named "Bulletproof". I applied it myself :)


NOTES:

Granite sealer.
clipped on: 10.21.2010 at 11:39 pm    last updated on: 10.21.2010 at 11:39 pm

Salt & Pepper Shakers?

posted by: numbersjunkie on 10.18.2010 at 10:53 am in Kitchens Forum

WOW - never thought it would be so hard to find new S&P shakers for my kitchen. Right now I have tupperware shakers - not exactly something I want to dispaly on my new granite counter.

I want something to use when I am cooking - not salt/pepper mills - just shakers to use when I am cooking. Larger size. Something contemporary looking, stainless and/or black would look nice. I like the Oxo mills but it seems like it would be pain to have to grind everytime I want to season something while cooking. What do you use?

NOTES:

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clipped on: 10.20.2010 at 04:11 am    last updated on: 10.20.2010 at 04:12 am

help!! must order now!! pop up electric outlet

posted by: igloochic on 05.15.2008 at 02:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

I can't remember the name of this stupid thing and i need to get one pronto...as well as specs tpday for the electrician to prepare for inspection. can someone point me to it? it raises up from below the counter rop and is water tight whan closed...

NOTES:

Mockett Pop-up electrical outlets plus two other brands listed.
clipped on: 10.19.2010 at 10:06 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2010 at 10:07 pm

Bosch Dishwasher - Virtually Silent NO LONGER

posted by: hillcountry-fairoaks on 10.17.2010 at 04:14 pm in Appliances Forum

Purchased a Bosch Dishwasher SHX45PO5UC for $1,000 for our new home in January 2010 - because of the virtually silent feature. We could not believe how silent the dishwasher was - only way we could tell it was running was to look for the red light on the floor.

About a month ago started hearing humming noises when I started the dishwasher and during the cycles of each wash and loud sloshing of water 30 feet away.

A bosch rep came out to the house after I contacted my builder. He was not very positive and was quite rude stating that the noise was common for a virtually silent dishwasher. The Bosch rep is going to check with the customer care division of Bosch to see if there have been complaints of noise and he did admit that there was water sloshing against the door for some unknown reason. Was told by my builder that he didn't think our one year warranty included noises.

Anyone else having loud noises from your VIRTUALLY SILENT
EXPENSIVE BOSCH DISHWASHER?????????

NOTES:

Run CLR or citric acid to combate hardwater scale.
clipped on: 10.19.2010 at 02:10 am    last updated on: 10.19.2010 at 02:11 am

Soft Close Drawers

posted by: clueless_70 on 10.12.2010 at 07:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

Is it worth a $1,200 upcharge for drawers and doors with soft close mechanisms?

NOTES:

And door softclose add-ons
clipped on: 10.13.2010 at 09:43 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2010 at 09:43 pm

Drawers over pull outs in Cabinets

posted by: gardengirl53 on 03.01.2010 at 01:18 am in Kitchens Forum

I've been reading on GW about so many of you who prefer drawers over the slide outs in the bottom cabinets and have been trying to figure out why. I had drawer for my pots and pans in my last house and hated the way I had to lift everything out or cram stuff over to get out a pot that was on the bottom. My pot lids were the same way. What do all of you who love your drawers store in them? I would think you would have the same problem with just about everything. I'm wondering what I'm missing. I personally think the slide outs give you more access to and easier reach to most everything. I know it's a matter obviously of choice but I'm wondering if there is something I'm just not getting. I think the drawers are prettier and wish I did like them more. What are all of you storing in your bottom drawers? Thanks much.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 10.13.2010 at 11:57 am    last updated on: 10.13.2010 at 11:57 am

led ucl diy

posted by: jem199 on 06.17.2010 at 12:19 am in Lighting Forum

Instructions for LED DIY
1. Measure the inside bottoms of the front width of your cabinets, between the sides (called fences). This assumes that the upper cabinets are completely flat bottomed.
2. Create a box diagram of your pper cabinet layout on paper and include the measurements.
3. Decide how many lighting zones (circuits) you�d like (groupings with their own switch or dimmer). Decide if you want dimming in each zone. You will need a transformer and a switch for each zone. Purchase dimmable transformers and switches for the zones that require dimming.
4. If you have lighting levels in your current kitchen you like, determine the lumens (light output) of those lights to be sure you are adding similar brightness. I used the following
� Incandescent are typically 14 lumens per watt.
� Fluorescents are typically 60 lumens per watt.
The lighting should be determined by a desired lumens per linear ft basis. The type of lighting (xenon, halogen, fluorescent, led, EL) possible could be dictated by conformance to local laws (eg - title24) FWIW, http://www.greentorch.com/LED-Strip-lights.htm has a claimed output of 83 lumens per watt. Environmental lights has their lumens here:
https://www.environmentallights.com/categories/1306_2402_3417/under-cabinet-light-bars
5. Determine the lengths of lights for each cabinet. You want at least one light every 30". Many have suggested getting the widest you can for each cabinet and then putting them on a dimmer to give you the most flexibility for task and ambient lighting. You can stack two or more lightbars parallel and connect them with jumpers for more lumens over a high-task area, such as a sink.
6. For each zone, add up the volts for the lights in the zone so you can select the appropriate transformer. Add 15% to your total. Here are the conversions I used (This is specific to the environmentallights type light bar)
� 15 cm = 5.9" = 1.65w
� 30 cm = 11.8" = 3.3w
� 60 cm = 23.6" = 6.6w
� 90 cm = 35.4" = 9.9w
7. Decide where you will place your transformer(s). Transformers should be placed in a wall, but in a cabinet, basement or attic where there is circulation and you can access it, if needed. You need one transformer for each lighting zone. By code, the transformer(s) have to be in an accessible location. One transformer per lighting zone is required if independent control of each zone is required. If multiple transformers are required, you need to ensure that there is adequate electrical branch wiring to the locations where each transformer is located. The necessary switch controls need to be planned for.
8. Add your lights to your box diagram. This will help you determine the accessories needed and where to place the wires. The lights in each zone must connect to each other and each cable must reach the transformer. For new installs, you can pull the wires back through the wallboard. For existing installs, bring the cables over the tops of the cabinets. You need at least 2 mounting clips per light. You may also need seamless connectors and/or right angle cords for tight spaces between the lights and fence where the cord needs to travel to the back of the cabinet. Interconnected zones should be wired in parallel not series so that a problem in one light bar/ zone would not cause all the lights to go out.

Parts List
1. In wall wiring - Ideal brand low voltage wiring (from HD or Lowes).
2. Ideal Plug disconnects (from HD or Lowes).
3. Lights - depends on how much light you want, total length of cabinets.
4. Transformer(s) - depends on cummulative consumption + 15% margin.
5. Inter-connect wiring.
6. Lightbars from http://stores.ebay.com/LEDpro-Lighting Email sales@photonier.com for pricing sheet.
7. Transformer from environmentallights.com
8. Leviton 6613 magnetic dimmers � 1 for each circuit/zone. Check with transformer supplier if you�d like to use a different one. Incompatible dimmer switches can void your transformer warranty. This particular dimmer reco assumes that low voltage (12V or 24V) LED lighting will be installed and contains many details specific to environmentallights type lightbars. Magnetic dimmers from various vendors could be used, but require some testing first. If you use a different transformer, check with the manufacutuer if there are known problems with certain dimmers. You can Hook up the system prior to installation for a test run if possible - switch(es).Things to look out for
1. There is no buzzing/ humming sound from the transformer when everything is hooked up and powered on.
2. All lights are equally bright, especially at the ends.
3. No flickering
4. No problems when dimming.

Tips specifics to this type of environmental lights type lightbar:
1. It�s a waste to buy the long length 3 prong interconnects. Just cut the interconnect wires and attach to a disconnect.
2. Two adjacent prongs are actually connected to the same DC line. The third is connected to the other DC line.
3. The right angle interconnects are probably more useful for connecting bars set at an angle to each other.
4. You could use flat wire under the cabinets as it comes with double side sticky tape. Some DIY work would be necessary with a soldering iron + heat shrink tubing.
http://www.flatwirestore.com/mm5/merchant.mvc
The flat wire is useful in situations where you do not like to see standard low voltage wiring.
5. The plug disconnects would be used to connect the in-wall low voltage wiring to the lighting power cords which connect the lights. It would also connect the in-wall low voltage wiring to the transformer. This way, if you ever decide to change out all the lighting bars to another make, it would be a simple matter of disconnecting from the plug disconnects and perhaps the transformer.

Thanks to davidtay for this information! Be sure to watch both parts of the DIY video below. It�s shows how to wire these to household current.

Here is a link that might be useful: UCL Install Video

NOTES:

Lots of internal links for suppliers/resources.
clipped on: 10.12.2010 at 10:59 am    last updated on: 10.12.2010 at 11:00 am

What to pay for 30 feet of cabinets?

posted by: hanna7636 on 09.26.2010 at 06:18 am in Kitchens Forum

Just got a quote from a remodeling store in new york for 29 feet of Dura supreme cabinets for $14,616.05. This is a lot more than I wanted to pay (price was included in full kitchen remodel). What brand of cabinets can I get all plywood for under $10,000. HD quoted me around $8000 for upgraded american woodmark.

NOTES:

Several brands listed in comments.
clipped on: 09.29.2010 at 04:03 am    last updated on: 09.29.2010 at 04:03 am