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RE: Are you growing any MGs indoors over the winter? (Follow-Up #69)

posted by: gerris2 on 10.27.2009 at 01:25 pm in Vines Forum

Woofie and others,

I am uncertain if the photoperiod effect is seen in species of Ipomoea other than Ipomoea nil. I have read that if seedlings that are grown under long day/short night conditions for 5 days (that is, 5 days of 16 hours light/8 hours dark) then treated to one cycle of short day/long night (8 hours light/16 hours total dark) will induce flowering in the plants. I say total darkness because any break in the darkness, such as a husband turning on the light for just a brief period, will disturb floral induction. What you can try is popping the container with seedling into a light-tight box for 16 hours and see if flower buds start coming on in a big way. I have seen reports of big flowers appearing on very small vines when they are treated in this manner. I haven't tried it but it would be a cool thing to do.

Ronnie, I think those products are compounts for inducing root production in cuttings due to presence of certain plant enzymes. The products I was referring to have mycorrhizal fungi that the root must come in contact with so the fungus and root can form the symbiotic bond by the fungus actually infecting the root. The fungus forms a web out in the soil around the roots, and make Phosphorus and other micronutrients available to plants in exchange for compounds the plants make available to the fungi. Google using search term mycorrhizal fungal products should give you piles of products to try out. Check out the videos that are on You Tube, I just watched the one in the link below and it was pretty informative.


Here is a link that might be useful: Mycorrhizal fungi general discussion on You Tube


Inducing flower in jmg
clipped on: 09.07.2013 at 03:12 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2013 at 03:12 pm

RE: Fertilizer Program - Containerized Plants (Long Post) (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: tapla on 10.27.2007 at 10:25 am in Container Gardening Forum

Thanks, Dave. Nicely said.

Thank you too, Tim. It makes me happy to know you found some value in your reading - and the effort to say so is appreciated.

I know lots of people try many approaches based on misinformation or the fact that so many fertilizer manufacturers promote 'special' fertilizers for half the variety of plants we grow. They think they're doing the very best thing for their plants just because they provide their nutrients from a package specifically labled for roses or azaleas, e.g. As often as not, or even more often than not, the blend may not be as appropriate as as a 3-1-2 ratio.

The number of nonspecific ions in the soil solution determines its electrical conductivity (EC). Plants take up water and dissolved nutrients easiest when the electrical conductivity (EC) range of soil solutes is favorable, and it varies by plant, but even if we're able to maintain that favorable level of EC, we are not necessarily sure that we are supplying the proper mix of ions (nutrients). If we supply only P, for example, the EC could be in a perfect range, but P will be supplying nearly all the ions. If we try to correct by adding N and K, plus the ether essential nutrients, it raises the EC of the soil solutes and causes drought stress/starvation/deficiencies if it becomes too high.

Most greenhouse operations will follow pretty closely to a 2-1-2 ratio of the primary macro-nutrients on most greenhouse crops with minor deviations based on tissue analysis and the effect of the growing medium. Most post-greenhouse fertilization will follow fairly closely to a 3-1-2 ratio, with some deviation. Again, this very closely mimics the range of the primary macros found in plant tissues.

For those that might be confused by the concept of ratios, it's kind of like reducing fractions. 24-8-16 and 12-4-8 are both a 3-1-2 ratio fertilizer. The only difference is the 24-8-16 has twice as much NPK by weight as the 12-4-8. If we could buy 3-1-2, it would only have 1/8 the NPK of 24-8-16. The only difference in their use is the dilution rate. Both 24-8-16 and 12-4-8 are both readily available in most stores and it should be no surprise that they are usually labeled and sold as 'all purpose fertilizers'.

Back to Tim - Good luck in the Master Gardener program. It will provide you with a lot of good information, but just as important is the fact that it will help you learn where to look for info when you need it. If the core manual is anything like ours, it will also be a great source for basic information. I still refer to it when asked questions about things like sorting out the difference in how to prune different cane plants or trying to sort out all the different root types and how plants multiply via root structures. I'm straying now though - take care. ;o)



clipped on: 07.15.2013 at 12:22 am    last updated on: 07.15.2013 at 12:22 am