Clippings by tripleione

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RE: Florida Weave: Distance between plants (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: bets on 03.26.2011 at 01:34 am in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Hi garystpaul,

I've been using the Florida Weave for several years now. I set my stakes 6 feet apart, and have two plants between then that are 3 apart.

So my layout goes: Stake <-18"-> plant <-36"-> plant <-18"-> stake. <-18"-> plant <-36"-> plant <-18"-> stake. Repeat as needed.

I would not put the plants any closer together than 3 feet unless you were pruning them. They tend to be pretty friendly and believe in togetherness. For that reason I put my rows a minimum of 6 feet apart.

For my end stakes, I use the tallest T-posts I can find and drive them at a slight angle outward. For the center stakes I use 2" x 2" x 8' lumber that I have painted or soaked the bottom 18" or so in linseed or tung oil which makes them last longer. I've been known to rip 2x4's down the center, or buy the precut but slightly rougher in texture 2x2's, which ever is cheaper. (The rougher texture actually holds the twine up better, but also makes it harder to tighten it as it stretches with the weight of the tomato plants.)

Oh, and I use baling twine, that does not compost, but eventually does break down. And we have a place to recycle it here. I usually get 2 or 3 seasons out of a piece of it before I give up on it. It doesn't stretch like some twines do, so I spend less time tightening it up. It's also pretty economical. I bought a big ball of it several years ago for around $30.00 and still have about half of it left.

I hope that helps.


Here is a link that might be useful: Florida Weave


clipped on: 10.18.2014 at 03:54 pm    last updated on: 10.18.2014 at 03:54 pm

RE: veggies to winter sow (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: lois on 12.30.2012 at 09:08 am in Winter Sowing Forum

Yes, for tomatoes, the lower DTM helps a lot.

Also, I will confess that I cheat on the wintersowing when it comes to tomatoes. (I hope I don't get kicked off this forum, LOL).

I wait until temps outside start to hit 40 during the day.

Then I plant the tomato seeds in 16 oz plastic cups and let them germinate inside.

On the day I first see that tiny strand of green appear out of the soil, I cover the cup with a sandwich baggie that has holes in in, and put the cup outside during daylight hours.

But I take the cup back inside before dark. I do this until nighttime temps start to rise above 40 or so.

Then I plant the seedling in the garden and protect it with a clear 2 liter soda bottle until daytime temps start to hit 60.

It is a bit more labor intensive than the regular wintersowing, but it's worth it to me because I don't have to worry about the seedlings dying from damping off inside, or having to be hardened off when it's time to plant.

It's worked well in my zone for the past 3 years. I also do the same thing with melon seedlings.


Great strategy for growing tomatoes from seed without needing indoor lights, watering, hardening-off, ect.
clipped on: 10.17.2014 at 06:27 pm    last updated on: 10.17.2014 at 06:28 pm

RE: Anyone grow lavender? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: susanlynne48 on 03.18.2012 at 09:00 am in Oklahoma Gardening Forum

There are some plants that are just not made for growing from seed. Lsvender is one of them. They have very low germination rates and there are only certain varieties that can be grown from seed to begin with. If you've ever grown Lavender, you might notice that it never self-sows.

Plants are pretty inexpensive to purchase in the Herb sections of nurseries or at big box stores, so it makes it much more economical to purchase small plants than to attempt to grow it over and over from seed. Just direct sowing seeds won't be successful either. Just make sure you get one that is perennial here in Oklahoma as many varieties are not hardy in our zone.

Lavender requires - no, demands - strict, perfect drainage. I grow mine in pots now, and they are hardy to zone 6 (pot-grown perennials in our zone should be hardy to zone 6) in order to winter over outside. Otherwise, some sand and compost in soil, on ground slightly elevated to allow good drainage is key. Lavender also doesn't like humidity. Sometimes we have high humidity in Oklahoma, and my Lavender kind of "sulks along". It likes drier air more than most Mediterranean herbs. Lavender does not need to be fertilized, either.

I love it and the butterflies and bees love it, too!

I have 2 varieties right now that are hardy here, Lavendula x intermedia 'Provence' (a French Lavender), and Lavendula stoechas 'Madrid Pink' (a Spanish Lavender). Madrid Pink is so-called because of its rosy pink flowers with pink bracts - very pretty. Shorter flower stems, so it is not as good for cutting flowers as Provence is.

There are many species and cultivars on the market, so you have a large variety to choose from.



clipped on: 04.25.2013 at 02:49 pm    last updated on: 04.25.2013 at 02:49 pm

WANTED: Looking for some native flowers, have vegetables/herbs

posted by: tripleione on 03.31.2013 at 05:23 pm in Seed Exchange Forum

I am looking for the following seeds to start up my native gardening project:

-Blackeyed Susan
-New England Aster
-Hairy Coreopsis
-Joe-Pye Weed
-Blazing Star
-Cardinal Flower
-Bee Balm
-Wild Blue Phlox
-New York Ironweed
-Solomon's Seal
-Wild Ginger
-Trout Lily
-Oconee Bells

I am will to trade anything on my list for any of these flowers. Thanks for looking.

Here is a link that might be useful: My trade list


clipped on: 03.31.2013 at 05:28 pm    last updated on: 03.31.2013 at 05:28 pm

Site for soil temp in NC cities, etc/sowing seed temp ?

posted by: carolinaflowerlover on 03.27.2013 at 11:19 am in Carolina Gardening Forum

Below is a website where you can look up soil temps, etc, for your area. Mine measures hourly.

At what soil temp is good to sow flowers? Average last frost date is April 6, but this stupid weather has soil temps as low as high 30s at night and only in mid to high 40s (50s if lucky) during the day. I imagine it needs to be a bit higher. Where is spring? This is nuts! :(

Here is a link that might be useful: NC soil information


clipped on: 03.28.2013 at 03:02 pm    last updated on: 03.28.2013 at 03:02 pm

Black Prince

posted by: therustyone on 07.19.2012 at 11:11 am in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Is anyone here growing Black Prince tomatoes?

I'm interested in your experiences with it.

Last year I grew one plant of it.
And got no tomatoes at all from it.
I attributed that to the fact
That I probably got it in the ground
Way too late in the season.

So this year I bought one plant again.
Got it in the ground a bit earlier,
But the heat hit a lot earlier, too.
And again, not a single tomato.
The plant has not grown well at all,
while all the other varieties
Have made beautiful plants.
I see no sign of any disease or pests
(well, a couple of Mealy Bugs which I sprayed
With Insecticidal soap)
Yesterday I noticed it is withering completely.
(Yes, I have watered deeply, thoroughly and regularly)
Again, all the plants around it seem to be fine.

I will probably not waste time & money
On this variety again,
But I'm curious about how it does for others,
And what your opinions of it are.



Add to discussion once you have Black Prince tomatoes
clipped on: 03.26.2013 at 11:24 am    last updated on: 03.26.2013 at 11:24 am