Enough filling to make two pies/tarts

Home Cookin Chapter: Recipes From Thibeault's Table

White Chocolate Cream cheese Raspberry Tart
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Shortbread Tart Pastry
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1 cup butter, room temperature

1/2 cup Icing sugar (powdered sugar)

1 1/2 cups all purpose flour

Place the flour and icing sugar in the bowl of a food processor. Cut the butter into pieces and add to the bowl. Using the pulse function process the mixture until it forms a ball.

White Chocolate Cream Cheese Filling

8 ounces white chocolate melted
(I melt in the microwave on medium low heat in 20 to 30 second intervals) Stir in between. Chocolate should not be hot.

8 ounces cream cheese room temperature
2 large eggs
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 white sugar
2 to 3 teaspoons vanilla extract
Fresh Raspberries

(enough filling for two pies)

Preheat oven to 425°F.

Prepare the crust first.

Divide dough into 4 equal pieces and place in the bottom of a tart pan with
removeable bottom. Using your fingers pat the dough evenly along the sides
and bottom of the pan. Prick with a fork and put in the freezer for 15
minutes. Prick again. Place on a cookie sheet and bake for 12 to 15 minutes or until crust is
golden. Check after the first 6 or 7 minutes and if the pastry is rising
up, flatten gently with a fork. Remove from oven and let cool on a rack.

Lower the temperature to 350°F

Filling

Beat the cream cheese with sugar until soft and creamy. Add the eggs and
continue to beat. Beat in melted white chocolate,cream and vanilla.

Decorate tart shell with raspberries. Slowly pour the cream cheese filling
around the berries. Bake for approximately 25 to 30 minutes or until the filling is set.

Let cool on rack. May be decorated with melted chocolate.

Here is the recipe for the Barefoot Contessa's lemon cake:

Lemon Cake

1/2 pound unsalted butter at room temperature
2 1/2 cups granulated sugar
4 extra-large eggs at room temperature
1/3 cup grated lemon zest (6 to 8 large lemons)
3 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
3/4 cup buttermilk at room temperature
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

For the glaze
2 cups confectioners' sugar
3 1/2 T freshly squeezed lemon juice

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Grease two 8 1/2 x 4 1/2 x 2 1/2-inch loaf pans.

2. Cream the butter and 2 cups granulated sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, for about 5 minutes, or until light and fluffy. With the mixer on medium speed, add the eggs, one at a time, and the lemon zest.

3. Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a bowl. In another bowl, combine 1/4 cup lemon juice, the buttermilk, and vanilla. Add the flour and buttermilk mixtures alternately to the batter, beginning and ending with the flour. Divide the batter evenly between the pans, smooth the tops, and bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until a cake tester comes out clean.

4. Combine 1/2 cup granulated sugar with 1/2 cup lemon juice in a small saucepan and cook over low heat until the sugar dissolves and makes a syrup. When the cakes are done, let them cool for 10 minutes, then invert them onto a rack set over a tray, and spoon the lemon syrup over the cakes. Allow the cakes to cool completely.

5. For the glaze, combine the confectioners' sugar and lemon juice in a bowl, mixing with a wire whisk until smooth. Pour over the top of the cakes and allow the glaze to drizzle down the sides.

HONEY WHOLE WHEAT BREAD
INGREDIENTS:
• 3-1/2 to 4 cups all purpose flour
• 2-1/2 cups whole wheat flour
• 2 pkg. active dry yeast
• 2 tsp. salt
• 1 cup milk
• 1 cup water
• 1/2 cup honey
• 3 Tbsp. oil
• 1 egg
PREPARATION:
In large bowl, combine 2 cups all-purpose flour, 1 cup whole wheat flour, the yeast, and salt and mix well.
In saucepan, heat milk, water, honey, and oil until a thermometer reads 120-130 degrees F (warm)
Add liquid mixture to flour mixture and stir to combine. Beat this batter for 3 minutes. Then, gradually stir in rest of whole wheat flour and enough remaining all-purpose four to form a firm dough.
Sprinkle work surface with flour and knead dough, adding more flour if necessary, for 5-8 minutes until smooth and satiny. Place dough in a greased bowl, turning the dough in the bowl to grease the top. Cover and let rise in a warm place about 1 hour, until double in bulk.
Punch down dough and divide into 2 pieces. On lightly floured surface, roll or press each piece of dough to a 14x7" rectangle. Starting with shorter side, roll up tightly, pressing dough into roll with each turn. Pinch edges and ends to seal and place dough, seam-side down, into greased 9x5" bread pans, making sure short ends of bread are snugly fitted against the sides of the pans. Cover and let rise in warm place until the dough fills the corners of the pans and is double in bulk, 30-40 minutes.
Bake in preheated 375 degree oven for 35-40 minutes, until bread is golden brown. Remove from pans and cool on wire racks. I like to brush the bread with butter when it's still hot from the oven for a softer crust.

I'm willing to pull a bunch outa my brain at random for you--but generally, you can just use the within-row distance both ways. If the pack/book says, "thin to 6 inches apart in rows 3 ft apart" then you plant 4/1 (4 per square foot).

If anyone wants an alphabetized table with general info for the FAQ, I'll be glad to produce one--I have a good start in my personal plant table/spreadsheet.

Quick Row-garden-to-Squarefoot translations:
Thin to 12 inches = 1/1
Thin to 6 inches = 4/1
Thin to 4 inches = 9/1
Thin to 3 inches = 16/1
Thin to 2 inches = 36/1
Scatter = scatter (Some things never change....)
Chives = Chia pet in a packet, so who cares? (Besides, it will spread....)

Herbs I have grown in East and North Texas (a few from a cast of hundreds, all in pots/planters, all squared):

Rosemary: In the South, Rosemary grows to either a 6-ft bush (3-4 ft wide) or a 4-ft ("trailing") shrub about 4 ft wide. Even with a *lot* of yummy trimming, uprights get about 4 ft tall. If you start fresh each spring, you can certainly go with 4/1, and get lots of tender top growth. (They will live for several years in that size planter.)

Basil, common: Common types are 1/1 in the South, particularly when staked at the ends of your tomato trellises--in which case, expect to harvest often, and a hacksaw will cut the stem at season's end. (Basil really *likes* maters!) I seriously had to hack my "3-ft" bushes back to 4 ft several times over the course of a long summer. Final size of the stem near the crown was the size of my thumb--and I have large hands, for a woman.

Basil, the other skazillion types: Better check that growth.... anywhere from 1/1 for globes to 1/4 for the big babies

Mints: All mints need to be in separate 1-ft pots, possibly on solid rock/concrete, and maybe in cages--even their roots mingling underground causes the oils to mix, which changes the flavor of all the plants--probably not in a happy way..... (Works with above-ground growth, too. I had a catmint trail into my peppermint and root. Ahghhhhhh. :-P )

Rule of thumb: if it has a 4-sided stem, pot it separately and watch it for "expansion plans"--those are really pruning volunteers, I can just sense it! :-D

French marigolds: 4/1

Sacrificial common marigolds come in various sizes and colors: Check the seed packet. Or just plant a border around the edge of the garden, and repeat as eaten....

Purslane (herb-type--you will be disappointed by flower-type): 1/1, trails and spreads--you can try cinderblock holes, if they are large.

Nasturtiums: 4/1 (You can just poke Nastie seeds into cinderblock holes with your finger, and let them trail. Blooms taste like pepper--always remove the bitter center seed-making part from edible flowers!)

Thyme: Varies, but 4/1 is safe for most munchables. Some thymes in the South *can* grow into 1x1 plants, if they survive the winter. Otherwise, you may go with 4/1 if you trim them often or take several big harvests per year.

Chives and garlic chives: Do you seriously expect me to *count*? 8-D ('Scuse me while I take a sample, here....) Hmmm, maybe just broadcast and cut like sod or plugs for transplanting.

Oreganos: 4/1, bloom stalks can be long, but don't interfere with anything--Nice to float in a tureen of cold soup; otherwise, clip before they go to seed.

Sages: Varies with variety, but you can probably put all but the really big hummers in 4/1 if you tweak regularly.

Garlic bulb (for greens): 1/1

Garlic: 4/1 or 1/1

Onions: 9/1 or 16/1, depending on size

Shallots: 9/1, I'm told.

Walking onions: 16/1, and watch the little smart alecks.

Horseradish: Pick a remote area at the other extreme from the walking onions, buy a machete, and plan on moving to another property based on it's rate of advance....

Ginger (organicly grown, nonornamental): 1/1

Ginger (ornamental--hey, it still *smells* good!): 1/1

Lemongrass: Plan for a 1/4, about 4 feet tall, like a light-green fountain.... Or keep in a 1/1 pot; water early and often.

Watercress: Plant a few in a shadey tub and apply cold water daily, let spread.

Borage: 4/1 (*Lovely* true-blue flower also tastes of cucumber)

Parsley: 4/1 (Most people think Italian tastes better. Caterpillers aren't that picky--plant extra for them behind the low flowers in a bed or out of plain view.)

Myrtle: Well, it's gonna be tree-ish if it lives.... The shrub can be potted for, I think, about a 6-foot shrub.

Bay: 6-foot tree in a pot, 20-foot tree if planted under a tall shade tree

Ginko bilboa: Apply organic tree care plan, prepare tire swing for rapid rise to 70 feet.

Rose: Ummmm, rosehips.... Get organically raised hip producers, plant them according to variety, and give them little garlic chive buddies.....

Savory (winter perennial, summer annual): 4/1 (Rethink it if you can carry over a perennial variety: 1/1 or 1/2)

Lavender: Prolly 1/1, and do *not* drown. (Lavender dies of overwatering, rather than heat. My neglected English lav bloomed in the shade last year--not a lot, but lovely scent....)

Cilantro: Sorry, I can taste the soap.... 4/1, I'm told.

Coriander: Cilantro seeds, but I like em. Go figure. In my climate, the spice shelf is a better bet than planting.

Dill: 4/1, and plant every two weeks for seeds (they bolt). Small young leaves delicious. (Watch out for dropping seeds, and plant extra for the caterpillars.)

Fennel (edible bulb): 1/1 (Burgundy is a beauty!)

Loofah vine: Stand back! Save the children first! :-D (Young gourds are eaten like summer squash, oldies are cured for "sponges")

Chamomille: 4/1 (Self-seeds easily)

Chervil: 1/1

Yarrow: Space 18 inches apart, then start the weed-eater....

Epazote: 1/1. Caution: Herbal guide warning says, POTENTIALLY TOXIC, NOT FOR USE DURING PREGNANCY. You only need one. You will never explain that to the plant. (Mexican culinary herb said to reduce the "gas" problem of a pot of beans. Try really hard to keep it from going to seed....)

Echinacea: 1/1

Fenugreek: 4/1, or to fix nitrogen sow 1 to 2 lbs per 1000 sq ft in the fall.

Gotu kola: Minimum of 1/1, warm and moist -- add young leaves to salads and keep the weed-eater handy.

Hyssop, common: 1/4, or maybe 1/2

Hyssop, giant yellow: 1/1 (Yes, the giant one takes less room--go figure)

Sorrel, French: 1/1

Stevia: 1/1 (I will put little muslin bags over the seed heads next time, so I don't lose those expensive little seeds....)

Tarragon, Mexican: 1/1 (Leaves bring out the flavor of other herbs)

Bergamot, lemon: 1/1

Bergamot, red-flowered: 1/2 (different species from the lemon bergamot)

Caraway: 1/1 or 2/3

If you want the cloth to be impregnated with the solution:

Place 3 T lemon juice in a Ziploc and add about 5-10 drops of oil (jojoba, apricot kernel, olive, whatever you like). Shake, then stuff you dustcloth in the bag for a day. Dust as usual. This is more of a deep-cleaning dusting solution.

If you prefer a spray bottle:

1/2 C apricot kernel or jojoba oil or Murphy's oil soap
1 T rubbing alcohol
1 C water
3 T castile soap or 1 t powdered detergent
add 10-15 drops of essential oil if you want a scent. Lemon, cedar, patchouli work well. Pretty much anything you like is okay.

Mix soap and water first, then add other ingredients.

Bathroom cleaner:
2T borax
1 C vinegar
1/2 t tea tree oil
15 drops grapefruit seed extract
1/2 t detergent or soap

Heavy duty cleaner:
2 t Borax
1 t washing soda
1/4 t detergent or soap
4 T vinegar or lemon juice
4 C water

I use Charlie's soap or castile soap in the above recipes. I use the bathroom cleaner to clean the toilet. I use baking soda if I need a slightly abrasive scrub, or salt on a lemon half.

I had never thought about these but I am going to try these next year.

Link to someone trying them

http://ottawahortiphilia.blogspot.com/2007/09/sweet-sweet-potato-success-for-northern.html

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Info from an Email that they sent me...
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SHORT SEASON SWEETPOTATOES (Ipomoea batatas)
Sweetpotatoes are among the most rewarding of vegetables to grow. These light feeders tolerate both acid soils and drought, and they store exceptionally well. As a food, they’re nutritional powerhouses. And they’re among those vegetables, like tomatoes and carrots, that taste immeasurably better home-grown than store-bought.
For the adventurous gardener with a 100-day frost-free season, short season sweetpotatoes are certainly worth a try. At Mapple Farm (Zone 5), we consider them an easy and dependable crop.
Since the 1980s, we’ve continually selected for earliness and productivity to provide you with the best sweetpotato planting material possible for northern, short season conditions. We’re proud to be the first and longest serving mail order sweetpotato stock supplier in Canada.
Not grown from seed, sweets are propagated by rooted cuttings or slips--small plants that grow from the tubers themselves and are then transplanted.

CULTIVARS

GEORGIA JET-By far the most popular type we carry . . . and with good reason. Of the dozens of varieties we’ve tried, it’s the hands down leader for earliness and yield among the orange-flesh strains.

TAINUNG 65-Light pink skin, creamy interior. Large tuber potential and high yielding-- often rivaling Georgia Jet for early tuber production. Its purple stems and bronze leaves also make decorative houseplants or hanging baskets.

FRAZIER WHITE- White and very sweet. Bulks up well, especially easy to harvest.

CARVER-The variety we started with and still a favorite. Tops in sweetness and flavor. Copper skin and moist, orange flesh.

SUPERIOR-A copper-skinned, moist orange-fleshed type with striking ivy-like foliage. Most appreciated by Great Lakes region growers.

REGAL-Developed in the Carolinas. Attractive red skin, orange-fleshed and delicious.

JAPANESE YAM- Burgundy skin and cream colored flesh. Very sweet with a hint of cloves.

We continue to trial EXCEL, GINSENG RED, KOREAN PURPLE, TRAVIS, BEAUREGARD & HANNAH.

Minimum total order: 12 plants For XPressPost option,*
Minimum order per variety: 6 plants add to $9.95 shipping:
12 slips/$12.95 $4.50
24 slips/$22 $4.50
60 slips/$48 $4.50
120 slips/$85 $9.00
240 slips/$155 $13.00 per 240 slips

* We ship plants from April (weather permitting) through mid-June via Canada Post’s expedited parcel service. For faster delivery, we offer Canada Post’s XPressPost service, especially recommended for destinations west of Ontario, particularly if you’re far from a major centre.

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Note: The larger (more than 24 plants) quantity listings are primarily for Georgia Jet and Tainung 65. We don’t have sufficient supply in the other varieties to fill large orders. We’ll do our best to fill your order exactly as you specify. However, if your order arrives at a time when we’ve run out of a particular selection, your choice in marking the "sub" (substitution) or "no sub" boxes helps in guiding our order handling. If you mark "no sub" and we can’t supply, we’ll simply refund. If you mark "sub," we will if we must and according to your preferences; e.g., feel free to tell us what your sub choices are (by name, by flesh color or whatever and we’ll do our best to oblige).
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Timing the Plants Shipping
Usually, you’ll want your plants after the weather has settled to the stage when peppers and eggplants are normally set in the garden. We’ve always tried to ship plants at the proper time; that is, when we’ve thought our customers needed them. This can be tricky especially when (e.g., in B.C.) planting zones can vary so dramatically within relatively short distances. Also, a gardener’s requirements may differ greatly depending on whether a greenhouse or other protective techniques are used.
So, if you know when you want plants, fill in the "When To Ship Plants" line on the Order Form. Otherwise, we’ll decide for you when it’s best to send them.

Shipping Plants Versus Tubers
We’re often asked why we don’t supply tubers instead of plants. For one thing, plants can handle colder conditions than tubers. A tuber exposed to temperatures below 10ºC./50ºF is subject to chilling injury and may rot; plants remain okay if kept above freezing.
Given that you’d need to have tubers at least 2 months prior to transplanting time in order to grow the plants you’d need, it’s simply too cold then to have them shipped.
Also, plants are far lighter (so less costly) than tubers to ship.

What’s in a Name?
You’ll notice that we refer to "sweetpotatoes" all in one word. As if the confusion over yams isn’t enough of a trial! (Some commercial sweetpotato producers refer to the moist, orange-fleshed cultivars they grow as "yams" to differentiate them from the drier, white- fleshed types.) Of course, yams (Dioscorea genus), a tropical crop, aren’t, botanically speaking, even related to sweetpotatoes (Ipomoea genus). . . and neither are potatoes (Solanum genus). So, the thinking goes, the recent move to "sweetpotatoes" instead of "sweet potatoes" helps to distinguish "our favorites" from "the common spud."

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SWEET POTATOES FOR THE HOME GARDEN:
With Special Techniques For Northern Growers

Following his popular article in Harrowsmith #96 (March/April ‘91)
on sweetpotato growing in Canada, Ken Allan released, in 1998, the definitive book on the topic.
Table of Contents:
1. Introduction
2. The History of the Sweet Potato
3. The Patron Saint of Sweet Potatoes:
George Washington Carver
4. Chilling Injury
5. Slips Production
6. Location, Soil and Fertilizer
7. Soil Warming & Bed Preparation
8. Planting and Care
9. Growing in Pots
10. Curing and Storage
11. Pests & Problems
12. Northern Sweet Potato Climate Zones
13. Putting It All Together:
size and yield records
14. Varieties
15 Anatomy of the Sweet Potato Plant
16. Sweet Potato Breeding
17. Cooking with Sweet Potatoes
18. Bibliography

We offer this 204 page softcover @ $20—shipping included
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In the spring, at the end of the day, you should smell like dirt.
-Margaret Atwood

I am an old man but a young gardener.
-Thomas Jefferson

We will be known by the tracks we leave behind.
-Dakota proverb

The greatest fine art of the future will be the making of a comfortable living from a small piece of land.
-Abraham Lincoln

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Pages 10 & 11
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GROWING SHORT SEASON SWEETPOTATOES
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Please save these instructions. Our intention is to save paper and trees by displaying them here rather than including them with each shipment.
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On arrival, sweetpotato plants might look somewhat tired (yellowed or browned) from their trip to your house. Don’t be disappointed; they have a will to live.
If you can’t (or conditions don’t allow you to) plant them outside fairly soon, place them in a clear jar or glass. Put enough water (at room temperature) in the container to cover the plants’ rooted area.
Better still, heel them in; that is, place the plants temporarily in a seed flat and hold them in a bright warm place.
THE PLANTING SITE should be the warmest, most sunny, and weed-free place you can provide. Wide raised rows or beds help speed soil warming and give the sweets loosened earth to grow in. Some go further to enhance soil warming by covering the beds with plastic mulch 2-3 weeks in advance of planting.* The plastic is anchored with earth around its perimeter.
THE SOIL should be somewhat acid (pH 5-6.5) and, ideally, light . . . but Mapple Farm’s isn’t--we get by with clay soil.
Sweetpotatoes are light feeders; they like a little phosphorus and a little more potassium-- a dusting of bonemeal and a sprinkling of wood ash will suffice. Avoid over-feeding nitrogen which favors vine at the expense of tuber growth, and leads to spindly rather than chunky tubers.
Sweetpotatoes won’t stand frost. Transplant them outside after the soil warms to at least 13ºC./55ºF.
ON TRANSPLANTING DAY, if using plastic and weeds are growing beneath, lift the plastic, hoe and replace plastic. Cut holes (about 9"/23 cm. diameter) through the plastic every 18 to 24 inches/46 to 60 cm. Draw some soil within the cut circle to anchor the plastic perimeter of the hole. You now have a saucer-shaped depression. Transplant through the hole, allowing only 2 or 3 leaves to show above ground. Water them in.
After transplanting, provide some shade during the first few days if the sun shines brightly. **
Sweetpotatoes are among the most drought tolerant vegetables. But you’ll get best results from regular watering.*** Those saucer-shaped basins will help to catch, hold and direct water to the roots.
GROWTH seems slow at first; the plant initially concentrates on root development. But by mid-summer, the vines take off. In the final stage, the plant’s energy is devoted towards tuber growth.
Vines extending over bare ground will sometimes try to root along their lengths. If you notice this happening, lift the vines to direct the plants’ growth to tuber development instead.
HARVEST when frost turns the vines black or when the soil temperature falls to 10ºC./50ºF.
CURE the tubers by keeping them in a warm (27ºC./80ºF.) , humid state for a couple of weeks.
STORE them in a cool (18ºC./60ºF.) but not cold room. Don’t clean the tubers until ready to cook them.
ABOVE ALL, sweetpotato plants appreciate warm soil. Row covers (of, for example, slitted clear plastic or porous spun-bound polypropylene) provide a beneficial space.

* Heat rays penetrate clear plastic mulch to warm soil at greater depths than black plastic. But black plastic (unlike clear) blocks the light rays weeds need to grow.

** "Help, my leaves fell off!"
We’ve heard this complaint a few times and suspect that perhaps shading wasn’t applied. If the plants move directly from the dark confines of a shipping box into a bright field, shedding leaves is an appropriate survival mechanism.
If time permits, gradual exposure of the plants to increasing amounts of light (as part of the hardening-off process) is ideal. Transplanting on cloudy days or late in the day is the preferable method.
Regardless, the plants most often recover since new growth will develop as new leaves form along the stem where the old leaves fell off--much like tomato suckers.

*** "Some of my sweetpotatoes have cracks!"
This is sometimes a genetic trait we can’t do anything about but often irregular watering, by the gardener or from the sky, gives uneven growth--much like what happens with split tomatoes. Proper curing will heal cracked sweets.

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To shade our new planting (all new plantings) we use flower pots, which we cut the bottoms out of. We get them from the Cemetery because I am the Administrator. Any cemetery should have them. We leave them on until the leaves grow out of the top.
Dennis Ballance, Napanee ON
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If you’ve ordered more than one variety, the names will be coded on the plastic covering the plants’ roots:

GJ-Georgia Jet
65-Tainung 65
C-Carver;
S-Superior;
R-Regal;

FW-Frazier White;
JP-Japanese Yam;
GR-Ginseng Red
E-Excel;
KP-Korean Purple
B-Beauregard;
H-Hannah;
T-Travis
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RECIPES

Sweet Potato Latka (potato pancakes)
Peel sweets and grate coarsely. For every 2 cups, add an egg and 2 Tbsp flour. Season to taste with salt. Experiment with other seasonings--suggestions include grated onion, pepper, ginger, nutmeg, cayenne, cinnamon or sesame seeds. Drop by the spoonful into hot fat (pref. oil) and fry until golden on both sides. This recipe is approximate since moisture content, size of eggs, etc., varies. These are wonderful hot but okay cold too. Try them with maple syrup, or sweet & sour chinese style dip or cool, crunchy garnishes like cucumber & pineapple.

Jerusalem Artichoke Latka
Mix grated artichokes with flour, egg & salt as in the above recipe & season with onion & garlic. Fry as above and serve with a squeeze of lemon. Tres gourmet!

Sweet Potato Fillings & Stuffings
Mashed seasoned sweets make a fabulous stuffing for wontons, ravioli or perogi. Vary your seasoning according to the ethnic specialty; i.e., ginger & cayenne for wontons, riccotta cheese & basil for ravioli (with a sprinkle of parmesan), carraway and sour cream for perogi. No measuring here--just keep adjusting to taste.

Submitted by Maria Kasstan, Toronto ON

Sweet Potato Soup
3 celery stalks, chopped
1 large garlic clove, minced
2 T ginger root, minced
1 T curry powder, minced
2 T oil
4 medium sized sweet potatoes
salt & pepper to taste
6 cups of vegetable stock
Sauté first 4 ingredients in oil for several minutes. Tehn add sweets, peeled and cut into cubes or slices. Sauté a few minutes more. Add stock and salt & pepper. Cook covered for 25 minutes, puree half, then add back to the pot. Re-heat before serving. Garnish: yogurt & sprinkled cheese.

Submitted by Margie Anne Boyd, Douglas NB

Here is a link that might be useful: Blog with pics of someone trying them

This isn't the best photo, because the sun was out, but from front to back its - chives, lavender (before it had buds on it), thyme, and then the sage.