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mo lippage (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: mongoct on 08.06.2007 at 07:50 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I should add a couple more items:

I wrote that ANSI allows 1/32nd lippage for 1" to 6" square tiles. That is for, I think, a 1/8" grout line.

I think if the grout line increases to (I think) 1/4", then the allowed lippage increases to 1/16". Not positive.

Also, there is a "standard" for tile being installed in a "workmanlike manner." Again, I think that there is a viewing distance, something like 6'. If you can see deviations in the installation from a distance of 6' or greater, then it is a deviation.

The idea being that if you pull out a magnifying glass to find imperfections, you need to go get your thrills elsewhere.

Still, to me, a larger part of this particular thread is that the GC implied afterwards that the tiles would look crappy because they were large format tiles.

He needed to 1) bring this to the attention of the homeowner 2) get an installer who has the ability to do a difficult installation like this or 3) pass on the job.

Mongo

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clipped on: 08.06.2007 at 10:28 pm    last updated on: 08.06.2007 at 10:28 pm

RE: Please help--bad tile job! What now? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: mongoct on 08.06.2007 at 07:33 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Flyleft,

I don't have a specific reference regarding the 3/32nds of an inch.

ANSI has a "lippage chart" but only for tiles ranging from 1" squares to 6" squares, and the lippage allowed for that size is 1/32nd of an inch.

Honestly, I can't tell you where the 3/32nds tolerance that I use came from for 16" squares. I got that number somewhere several years ago and since then I've always used that in agreements that I've written up just to have a number and to set expectations.

Bill may have a better idea of any true standard since he is a full-time tile setter.

Mongo

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clipped on: 08.06.2007 at 10:27 pm    last updated on: 08.06.2007 at 10:27 pm

RE: Please help--bad tile job! What now? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: mongoct on 08.06.2007 at 12:54 pm in Bathrooms Forum

"He is now telling me that it's a very tough tile to lay--16", straight edge porcelain--and that's the problem. OK, so what is the solution? And shouldn't they have mentioned this before we bought the tile?"

It is tough to lay large tile. A little more thought and care has to go into the process.

I's say your GC is an ass, but I don't think I can write "ass" on this forum, so I won't write that.

If he thought his tile guy couldn't do a decent job, he should have told you up front and given you the option to 1) proceed or 2) bring in your own tile guy.

If the tile guy didn't think he could do a decent job, he should have passed on the job.

I remember the original thread, but I'm not sure how far the discussion went. I recommend documenting the discussions in writing and by email. Send the GC and certified letter, return receipt requested.

In the letter, explain the problems, and how you'd like it resolved. Give him a certain number of days to reply.

The options are that he fixes it, or you hire someone else to fix it at the GC's expense.

You can also go the route of binding arbitration, if that service is available in your area.

When setting large format tiles, it's often good for the installer to go to a medium-bed mortar instead of traditional thinset. Medium bed mortars tend to slump less under the weight of a large tile, meaning that once the tile is set it won't sink into the mortar.

That's important because with large format tiles you need a thicker bed of mortar under the tile to give you wiggle room to account for deviations in both the floor (uneven) and the tile (warped).

Wider grout joints also allow any lippage to be better disguised.

Lippage tolerance? I'm not certain if there is a standard or not, but I've always used 3/32nds of an inch as a tolerance when discussing these types of installations with the homeowner during the design phase.

Any installer worth his salt, and any GC who claims to be a GC and accepts money for coordinating the work, has to know all aspects of these types of installations. The larger the tile gets, the more difficult the installation.

The tile installer did the installation. The nuts and bolts of the installation, and the final outcome of the intallation, are his responsibility.

The GC hired the installer to set the tile. The GC is responsible for the tiler doing the work to industry standards.

If the GC chooses to not correct a substandard installation, then he's giving you the right to correct it on your own, and you deduct the cost of the repair from the GC's payment.

It's HIS responsibility for things to be done right. He either gets the original tiler to correct it, or he brings in someone else to correct it, with the cost of those repairs being invisible to you.

Or he agrees that you bring in someone on your own to do the repair, with the cost going to him.

Mongo

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clipped on: 08.06.2007 at 10:26 pm    last updated on: 08.06.2007 at 10:26 pm

RE: husband worried about heating mat install....anyone electrocu (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: shaughnn on 08.01.2007 at 02:02 am in Bathrooms Forum

Hello ChrisKelly,
Stick with a reputable brand:
Watts "SunTouch"
Warmly Yours "TempZone"
"NuHeat"
Laticrete "FehrenHEAT"
These are all self-contained heating systems which are relatively simple to install safely. Of these four, only "NuHeat" is a mat which is custom built to fit your room exactly. The rest are rolls of woven material which is flipped, split, and unraveled to fit your space.
It is important to test the heating mat at several stages during installation
Out of the box
After it has been fixed to the floor
After tile has been installed
Before control thermostat is connected
The resistance should read similar on all tests and if there is a variance beyond the manufacturer's allowance then you've got a problem. But most are built tough and designed to protect the elements from the sharp teeth of notched trowels while tile is being installed over them.
Piece of cake!,
Shaughnn

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clipped on: 08.05.2007 at 06:48 pm    last updated on: 08.05.2007 at 06:48 pm

RE: Is granite tile a good idea for a shower? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: bill_vincent on 06.12.2007 at 10:04 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We are thinking of using these with a shower pan. I'm getting conflicting information about grout(sanded or unsanded)/no grout, sealing, cleaning, maintenance etc. Does anyone have experience to share? Thank you so much.

In spite of the fact that there are those who've used 12x12 tiles for their shower pans, I'm with oruboris on this. You want to keep the pan tiles at 6x6 or less, and the smaller the better, so as to conform better to the cone shaped slope from the walls into the drain. That's not to say you can't use this stone, or even these tiles. You can always have the tiles cut down either to 6x6 or 4x4 and use the smaller squares. Now, onto your other questions.

Concerning grout, there is one thing, and one thing ONLY that will determine whether you sanded or unsanded grout, and that's the size of the grout joint. Anything less than 1/8", you use unsanded grout. Anything 1/8" or larger, you use sanded. No exceptions.

As for sealing, cleaning, maint. issues, you couldn't ask for a better natural stone for the shower. The reason is that granite is a much denser stone than any of the others, and as such, it won't allow as much in the way of staining. It also isn't affected AS MUCH (I won't say it's not affected at all) by the acidity of some cleaners. You still want to use a ph neutral cleaner for normal cleaning. Now for the sealing part. I'm not familiar with that granite specifically. There are many that shouldn't be sealed, and others thatr just really don't need to be. The best way to tell whether you should seal your stone is to take a wet rag or sponge, and set it on the stone for about 5 minutes. Come back and pick the rag or sponge up, and if you see a wet "stain" (a dark area on the tile), then you want to seal it.

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clipped on: 06.14.2007 at 10:08 pm    last updated on: 06.14.2007 at 10:08 pm

RE: Sherwin Williams vs. Ben. Moore vs. Behr (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: jasonmi7 on 11.09.2006 at 12:26 pm in Paint Forum

I've used nothing but SW professionally for years. Never had a problem with Duration, but then again, I'd rather die than use a brush; that's why sprayers were invented.

I personally didn't like Behr; I used it once or twice, but there was just such a startling lack of consistency in quality from one can to the next that it wasn't usable. Then again, that's kind of the problem with those stores in the first place.

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clipped on: 06.10.2007 at 11:16 am    last updated on: 06.10.2007 at 11:17 am

RE: Sherwin Williams vs. Ben. Moore vs. Behr (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: vanyali on 11.09.2006 at 11:42 am in Paint Forum

First of all, any paint shop can match just about any color from any other manufacturer. 99% of the time, they can match it by the brand and the color name. 1/2% of the time they will need the number of the color on the color card. 1/2% of the time they will need the color card itself and they'll use their color-matching machine. It works just fine, I've done it a lot. You should not choose your paint brand by color. Color is a completely separate issue.

As for brands, I won't use anything other than Benjamin Moore any time I'm going to be painting with a brush (such as on trim or paneling). I prefer their water-borne Satin Impervo for it's nice leveling (the paint goes on flat, so you don't see the brush strokes as much). The Sherwin Williams paint I've tried does not self-level at all. I bought their scrubbable Duration paint, and I really don't like how it brushes on at all. Duron paint is horrible stuff, don't touch it. I've thrown the stuff away it's so bad. Behr tends to be thin, so you'd need to put on more coats, but other than that I don't know anything wrong with it.

When using a sprayer or roller, you generally don't have to be as picky (thinner paint is better for a sprayer anyway). The Sherwin Williams rolls on fine, as does the Benjamin Moore. The Behr is thinner, as I've said, so you might need to put up a third coat, especially if you're putting up a dark color or a red or something like that. But in general it'll be OK. Don't forget to prime first -- it really helps adhesion.

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clipped on: 06.10.2007 at 11:16 am    last updated on: 06.10.2007 at 11:16 am

RE: ANY users of Benjamin Moore Matte paint? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: brushworks on 10.25.2006 at 07:16 pm in Paint Forum

I've had nothing but good experiences with it in my residential repaint business. Use the satin in the kitchen and the matte in the other two rooms.

Be sure to prime first! Use Fresh Start Acrylic primer and then two coats of Regal Matte.

Michael

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Michael is referring to Benjamin Moore
clipped on: 06.10.2007 at 11:11 am    last updated on: 06.10.2007 at 11:11 am

RE: Shower pressure (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: jamesk on 06.05.2007 at 11:16 am in Bathrooms Forum

By federal regulation, all showerheads sold in the U.S. are limited to a flow rate of no more than 2.5 gallons per minute. On many showerheads you can get around the regulation by removing the flow restrictor after purchase -- but not on all. It is not illegal to remove the flow restrictor, the showerhead simply can't be sold without it.

Different methods are used to restrict flow by different manufacturers. If you unscrew the showerhead from the the spray arm, you may be able to see a disk in the top of the showerhead with a small hole in it. Other brands employ an "O" ring or other mechanical device. If you can pry out any of these contrivances, you'll see a marked increase in the flow of water.

That being said, many showerheads are capable of delivering a satisfying shower experience with a flow rate not exceeding the 2.5 GPM limit. If you're interested in conserving water or reducing your water heating costs, you might want to try a different showerhead. I've found that showerheads from Grohe perform very satisfactorily with the flow restrictors in place. You might want to take a look at the Grohe Relaxa showerhead, which is the one I prefer.

Here is a link that might be useful: Grohe Relaxa Showerhead

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clipped on: 06.05.2007 at 11:06 pm    last updated on: 06.05.2007 at 11:06 pm

Other photos (Follow-Up #48)

posted by: flyinghigh on 05.24.2007 at 10:12 am in Bathrooms Forum

Thank you for the compliments. This is a guest bath so there is no shower... The glass artist that did the sink and lights put this on her website and there are a few more photos there - link below. You need to click on each photo to enlarge it. In the one photo, you can see the chrome plumbing underneath, but in reality you don't really notice it so we didn't bother with oil rubbed bronze p-traps and other plumbing.

We worked with SinksGallery.com that is part of a bigger company that specializes in artisan crafted "functional art" including sinks, lighting, etc. There people were very helpful in all aspects of the project. They're not designers - nore are they installers - but they have access to hundreds of artists doing glass, wood and other mediums. We bought our two teak wood sinks through them for our master bath and a friend used them for a beautiful glass chandelier (one of their other websites - GlassArtistsGallery.com). If you are looking for something unique - they are awesome!

Here is a link that might be useful: Guest Bath Photos

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clipped on: 05.26.2007 at 10:09 pm    last updated on: 05.26.2007 at 10:09 pm

Our wood countertop (Follow-Up #44)

posted by: flyinghigh on 05.23.2007 at 10:46 am in Bathrooms Forum

Here's ours:

The wood is reclaimed old growth cedar milled and left with a "life edge". Sink is a hand blown glass vessel by glass artist Suzanne Guttman - she also did the matching sconces.

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clipped on: 05.26.2007 at 10:08 pm    last updated on: 05.26.2007 at 10:08 pm

RE: wood counter top in Bath? (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: mongoct on 05.11.2007 at 12:53 pm in Bathrooms Forum

fausonk,

Hydronic radiant works fine under solid or engineered hardwood flooring. Electric mats (nuheat-type) can be used under an engineered wood flooring, but not solid hardwood flooring.

With hardwood over radiant, there are some types of hardwood flooring that work better than others. Example, an engineered hardwood would be easier to detail than solid 3/4" hardwood, as the engineered wood is more stable.

As to solid hardwoods over radiant, there are basic considerations...
-The species of wood: some are more stable than others
-How the wood was milled: quartersawn vs flatsawn
-How wide the strips are. Narrower will have smaller gaps between adjacent strips than wide. Although that's true in non-radiant installations as well.

Most of the times these limitations can be worked around, though. Example if you had your heart set on using a hardwood that had large movement across the grain, then I'd recommend installing it using thinner strips.

But you need someone who knows what they're doing and who care about doing it right to get it right.

Engineered flooring can be used over resistance mats like NuHeat. The mat is adhered to the subfloor using the only flooring adhesive I'll ever recommend, Bostik's Best. The flooring is then glued to the mat using more Bostik's.

Bostik's is awesome stuff.

If you use an engineered flooring, go with a quality product. Some have extrememly thin veneers of finished wood, about 1/16" thick, with underplies of questionable-grade softwoods.

Better products may still have a thin 1/8" veneer of show wood, but the underplies are better grade and thus give the product better performance once installed.

Other products have a 1/4" show layer. There's a good mix out there, engineered flooring has come a long way over the past 10 years.

I wouldn't install a laminate in a bath. Actually, I wouldn't install a laminate anywhere. The "photograph" show layer of "wood" often repeats throughout the floor, and many of the products had MDF cores. When MDF gets wet, it absorbs moisture and swells.

So what does all that mean?
-If using hydronic radiant, you can use engineered hardwood with little thought, or solid, although solid hardoowd may require a bit if thought depending on the chosen species of wood.
-If using electric resistance mats, then only use an engineered hardwood over it. There are some nifty engineered hardwoods, so it's not much of a limitation.

Mongo

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clipped on: 05.26.2007 at 09:56 pm    last updated on: 05.26.2007 at 09:56 pm

RE: wood counter top in Bath? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: mongoct on 05.10.2007 at 03:28 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Flyleft,

The backsplash is indeed painted wood. Poplar, primed and painted with oil-based.

Atop the poplar sits a strip of teak. Nothing terribly fancy.

There is caulk between the bottom of the poplar backsplash and the teak countertop.

I dryfit the poplar, and with the poplar in place I run a strip of blue painters tape on the teak, right up against the bottom edge of the poplar.

I then remove the poplar and run a bead of caulk on the teak, between the blue tape and the wall.

I then reset the poplar in place, sammiching the bead of caulk between the poplar and the teak.

Any squeezeout ends up on the blue tape. When I pull up the tape it takes the squeezeout with it, and I end up with a nice crisp inside corner that is caulked, but there's no evidence of caulk.

The floor is brazilian cherry, and yes, it is gorgeous. It's even more wicked gorgeouser since there is radiant floor heat underneath.

Mongo

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clipped on: 05.26.2007 at 09:53 pm    last updated on: 05.26.2007 at 09:53 pm

RE: wood counter top in Bath? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: mongoct on 05.10.2007 at 11:31 am in Bathrooms Forum

I've done quite a few bath countertops in walnut and teak, only one in white oak.

I say "naysay" to the naysayers.

Here's one in teak:


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The sink countertop is 8/4, the countertop between the sink and the toilet is 5/4, and the small strip atop the sink backsplash is 4/4. The base for the round make-up mirror (sitting on top of the toilet cabinet) is 8/4 as well.

Me? I'm 304/4. Thankfully, 304/4 tall and not 304/4 thick.

Mongo

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clipped on: 05.26.2007 at 09:51 pm    last updated on: 05.26.2007 at 09:51 pm

RE: wood counter top in Bath? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: cliff_and_joann on 05.09.2007 at 05:00 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Here's a rough template of the countertop.The good template is on the work bench... My head cabinet guy (also doubles as my hubby) just came home from the mill. He bought 2 lenghts (8 ft each) of 2" thick white oak rift, another piece of walnut and another piece of maple.
we're on our way!

I think the height will finish at 33"

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clipped on: 05.26.2007 at 09:48 pm    last updated on: 05.26.2007 at 09:48 pm

RE: Bathroom finished (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: kitnguye on 03.05.2007 at 11:23 am in Bathrooms Forum

Awwwww! Thanks so much guys... I was so afraid I would post and hear the sounds of crickets chirping their apathy :)

Mirrors were from bed bath and beyond, clearance section. One has a tiny chip in the veneer on the top I filled in with wood paint. 2 for $60.

Vanity was from costco. Comes with the granite top and sinks. They had a $100 off coupon so I got it for $700 or $750.

Faucets, tub faucet and shower faucet are Price Pfister Ashfield Collection - Oil Rubbed Bronze. Found lowest online price and printed and had HD price match and used 10% coupon.

Vanity -- Murray Feiss - VS8002-ORB. Here is a better pic with the light off

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Just a hint. Local lighting store was $160 each. Lowest online price was ~ $105. If you call a lot of the online stores, they will sell lower. They just can't post the lowest prices online per agreements with the manufacturer. I used lightnleisure.com. I think I got them for $80/each, no shipping. I buy all my lighting this way.

Tub is the KOHLER purist soaker - No bubbles. Again, found lowest online price and had HD price match with 10% coupon. I think I paid about $740, with tax included.

The floor is travertine. I'm not sure of the brand. The local tile store sold it for $3.50/sq which was a lot less than other places which wanted $12/sq or more. Wall tile is porcelain and is Spoleto Beige by Esquire. The mosaic is Beige Mosaic by Bengali. The listello around the tub and shower is river rock as is the shower pan.

Ok, so I just have to brag a little about my best bargain. I know it's probably tacky, but I'm asian and it's cultural :) The window over the tub is an Andersen window that sells for $1800+ at HD; I got it for $225. Locally, there is a closeout warehouse builder's store which goes to auctions and buys returns from big box retailers. It's all cash and carry though and was a pain in the @ss to get home!

Thanks again for all your comments!
Kim

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clipped on: 05.21.2007 at 11:14 pm    last updated on: 05.21.2007 at 11:15 pm

RE: Bathroom finished (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: kitnguye on 03.13.2007 at 10:25 am in Bathrooms Forum

Monica:
I have found HD's price matching to be variable, depending on store and (in)competence of employees. At one local HD, they wouldn't price match. At another, they would, but the printout also had to show the shipping charges and those had to be factored into the price matching. At a third, they price matched it without factoring shipping. Obviously, I went with Store #3, especially re: heavy Kohler bathtub. I found the best strategy is to gain some kind of rapport with the kitchen/bath people. Everything in the bath needed to be special ordered by the kitchen designers. I found one designer who I became friendly with, and only ordered when she was working.

I had just moved into this home, so I went to homedepot.com and got a "mover's coupon" which they give to new homeowners. I'm not sure they really check to see if you are a new homeowner though.

https://www.homedepotmoving.com/sign_up.do?action=SignUp&regMode=10percent

Lowes does the same thing and they will take each other's coupons if you prefer one store over the other.

http://www.lowesmoving.com/

Also, another hint, when you special order from the designers at HD, they input the orders into a computer in the back of the store and you present your coupon to make sure it is applied. You then get a printout and go to the front to pay where they almost always forget to ask for the coupon. I used mine a few times.

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clipped on: 05.21.2007 at 11:13 pm    last updated on: 05.21.2007 at 11:13 pm

RE: Bathroom finished (Follow-Up #31)

posted by: kitnguye on 04.16.2007 at 10:33 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Vanity is actually about 72" long.

I got a huge range in prices for my shower enclosure. From wilsonglass.com (diy glass enclosure), the cost was going to be about $1550. I also called around to about 5 different local glass places. I found that well-known bath enclosure places used a lot of Basco products, and although they make good enclosures, they are pricy. Basco estimates were between $3200-3500. A couple local places contracted directly with glass companies or they made the glass themselves. The place I went with charged me $1850, including labor. I figured the extra $300 was worth the headache of a DIY glass shattering accident :) Also, keep in mind that my shower has only one knob to open the door. If I wanted a more substantial handle, they would have charged an extra $50/hole (they cut a hole in the glass for the handles, I guess?). I actually got lucky and found a coupon in the back of the phonebook for my glass company that gave me 10% off the cost of the shower enclosure. You might want to check your local phone book for something similar.

Good luck with the remodel and thank you for the comments!

Kim

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clipped on: 05.21.2007 at 11:11 pm    last updated on: 05.21.2007 at 11:11 pm

Bathroom finished

posted by: kitnguye on 03.05.2007 at 09:17 am in Bathrooms Forum

Hi all:
I have been a constant lurker on here for several months, popping in occassionally to ask questions to various subject matter experts. Just thought I would post some pics of my completed bath. Thanks so much to all of you for your helpful answers and insightful design ideas.

Kim

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clipped on: 05.21.2007 at 11:08 pm    last updated on: 05.21.2007 at 11:09 pm

Master Bathroom finished

posted by: annkathryn on 04.25.2007 at 05:27 pm in Bathrooms Forum

All finished, except for the mirrors (any suggestions?) and window shades, plus the steam shower control needs to be installed (that's the hole in the shower wall). The shower surround is starphire glass, granite counter tops are Costa Esmeralda, vanities from Ronbow, porcelain floor and wall tiles, quartzite mosaics, and lights from Minka Lavery. Wall color is BM Adobe Beige. Teak bench is from Smith Hawkin. Bedroom walls are Renovation Hardware Sycamore Green. This was a remodel of an existing bath, with very little changed structurally except to remove a large tub and expand the shower area.

Thanks for everyone from the forum who helped along the way!

Ann

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clipped on: 05.21.2007 at 11:03 pm    last updated on: 05.21.2007 at 11:04 pm

RE: Claire de Luna's Vintage Inspired Bathroom (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: claire_de_luna on 02.18.2007 at 01:51 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Liz and Houseful, Thank You! Houseful has been around since I started agonizing about all of this and I'm grateful to be almost done. I appreciate everyone's kind words.

Tina, I'm glad we could make the Rejuvenation debacle finally fade away. (The finish carpenter made a big difference.) I found myself at the local craft store one day and had some foam core poster board cut to the size of the mirrors so we could back them and be done with it. It was straight anyway! It's working out well so far. The main floor tile is the Sandblasted, Honey Mustard terrazzo tile from Santa Regina. It's lighter than it is when it gets wet, which is nice because you instantly know if the floor is wet because of the color change. I'm loving it so far. It may sound silly but I also love the swing arm reading lamp. Sometimes you just need to see right in front of you.

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clipped on: 05.21.2007 at 11:00 pm    last updated on: 05.21.2007 at 11:01 pm

Claire de Luna's Vintage Inspired Bathroom

posted by: claire_de_luna on 02.16.2007 at 10:47 am in Bathrooms Forum

It's small and utilitarian, not quite finished but close enough. We wanted something simplified that was easy to use, easy to clean. The room isn't opulent and I know isn't to everyone's taste but I like going in there! Like Johnmari, I used a particular picture from Bungalow Bathrooms as my inspiration for the floor, and went from there. We love the doorless, curbless shower, the mantel style ledge for less counter clutter, Toto Washlet and heated floors. Here's the list:

Kohler "Bancroft" fixtures and robe hooks (Polished Nickel)
American Standard pedestal sinks
Tapmaster
Toto Toilet with Washlet
Shower seat hardware is from Urban Archaeology
Medicine cabinets from Rejuvenation (BIG MISTAKE/NOT RECOMMENDED)
Light fixtures - N/A (See above)
Hinges and Latches from Antique House of Hardware
Soap dispensers are Holly's of Bath
Floor heat - SunTouch
Ventilation - Panasonic Whisperwarm
Grab Bar is from Ginger (Circe)
Arts & Crafts style border paper is River Frieze - Bradbury & Bradbury
Paint is Sherwin Williams - Hopsack
Tiles - Westminster matte 3x6 subways "Marshmallow"; Classic Collection (Cornice for the baseboard and Ledge moldings at the top);
Santa Regina Terrazzo tiles: Toast Wheat (Antique finish) and Honey Mustard (Sandblasted)
Travertine - mesh pattern (2x2, 1x1 and 2x1) and individual 1x1's for the floor border
Lewellen - Trout Shallows art tile

Here is a link that might be useful: Claire de Luna's small bathroom

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clipped on: 05.21.2007 at 10:56 pm    last updated on: 05.21.2007 at 10:57 pm

RE: pix from Bill V and Mongo in one place? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bill_vincent on 03.25.2007 at 06:28 am in Bathrooms Forum

Well, as for mine, if you don't mind some misc. fishing and family pics, go to photobucket.com, and do a search on Bill_Vincent . I've made my account public, and they're all (atleast all the ones I've used in here) there in one place. :-)

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clipped on: 05.21.2007 at 10:54 pm    last updated on: 05.21.2007 at 10:55 pm

RE: Traditional master remodel pics (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: dockside on 05.18.2007 at 07:23 pm in Bathrooms Forum

sassyinak,

What a beautiful bath. I just saw it now (almost two months later). I hope you are still around to answer my question.

What is the name of the granite tile on the lower part of your shower? It is just what I am looking for. Looks like it has red or rust in it. It's gorgeous.

If anyone else can answer (in case sassy doesn't see this), I'd appreciate it along with where I can buy it. Thanks bunches.

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clipped on: 05.21.2007 at 10:50 pm    last updated on: 05.21.2007 at 10:51 pm

RE: Traditional master remodel pics (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: sassyinak on 05.18.2007 at 08:21 pm in Bathrooms Forum

dockside,
I also answered your question over on the "dream bath pics" post. It is New Colonial Dream and yes, it does have a rusty color in some swirls. There is some red- the small dots that look black in the picture are garnets that are actually a deep red. Then there are a few areas with a blueish red. It is a very variable stone. I would say the dominant color is amber though. Thanks for the compliment, happy to answer any questions.

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clipped on: 05.21.2007 at 10:48 pm    last updated on: 05.21.2007 at 10:49 pm

RE: Traditional master remodel pics (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: sassyinak on 03.25.2007 at 11:53 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Cactuscatie,
The wood tub base was built by the finish carpenter, who also installed the vanity base and mirrors. The panel was ordered from Schrok by my local cabinet/interiors store, so it came already stained to match the vanity. We also ordered three cabinet doors that go over the panel, base moulding and the 45 degree trim piece for the angles from Schrok. An unexpected benefit is a bunch of storage space behind those three doors. They are on hinges, so much easier to open than my old access panel which was attached with clips.
Thanks for the compliment!
-Sassy

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clipped on: 05.21.2007 at 10:45 pm    last updated on: 05.21.2007 at 10:46 pm

Traditional master remodel pics

posted by: sassyinak on 03.23.2007 at 07:37 pm in Bathrooms Forum

After a year of planning and two months of construction, our master bath remodel is nearly finished. All that remains is some caulking around the tub and shower floor, cherry switchplates for the medicine cabinets, install towel warmer and sealing the tile. Many thanks to the wonderful people on this forum, especially Bill Vincent, who held my virtual hand the whole way.
Here's some pictures:

Materials used:
Plumbing: Grohe Geneva (except shower handheld) and Freehander, Bain Ultra Amma air tub. Sink- Kohler Devonshire
Cabinets: Schrock
Tile: Jerusalem stone "Sunny light" polished on walls, honed on floor, listello onxy/travertine from Lowes. Pebble from Natural Stone Outlet.
Granite is New Colonial Dream.
Let me know what you think!
Sassy

Here is a link that might be useful: more photos here

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clipped on: 05.21.2007 at 10:41 pm    last updated on: 05.21.2007 at 10:41 pm

RE: where did you find best price for glass tile?? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ibmali on 03.12.2007 at 02:40 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Depends somewhat on the type of glass tile you're after ...mosaic, subway, clear or opaque, etc. I love Susan Jablon mosaics. She has a great selection, does custom blends, a has provided me w/ terrific customer service. Give her website a look.
Mel

Here is a link that might be useful: Susan Jablon Mosaics

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clipped on: 05.15.2007 at 11:03 pm    last updated on: 05.15.2007 at 11:03 pm

RE: where did you find best price for glass tile?? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: meghane on 03.12.2007 at 11:17 am in Bathrooms Forum

I bought my tiles here. The prices were the best I could find. I ordered on Sunday night and my tiles were here on Tuesday afternoon, very well packaged and in perfect condition. I will order again from them!

Here is a link that might be useful: Wholesaler USA inc

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clipped on: 05.15.2007 at 11:01 pm    last updated on: 05.15.2007 at 11:02 pm