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Florist rose cuttings & superthrive

posted by: Maude80 on 08.26.2012 at 10:25 pm in Rose Propagation Forum

Hi everyone,

For the last year or so, I have been taking cuttings from bouquets of florist's roses and have had only moderate success. The ones that actually did take have been doing very well in my garden, but still, the death rate of my cuttings was pretty high and the majority of them would turn black.

Recently I purchased a bottle of superthrive because I was going to be digging up and moving a small evergreen and I was hoping to ease the transplant shock. Normally, when I plant rose cuttings, I start by mixing potting soil (usually scotts) with perlite. Then, I water it. Now that I have the superthrive, I wet the soil with that (I believe one capful per gallon)..

Doing that seems to have made a huge difference, and now about 70 percent of my cuttings are surviving. I had always used powdered rooting hormone, but I think this new stuff is what gives them the extra push to form roots. Anyone else doing this??



Supermarket rose propogation - better rooting hormone type of thing
clipped on: 10.24.2012 at 12:51 am    last updated on: 10.24.2012 at 12:53 am

RE: Whant to Add one More Variety of Blackberry (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: gator_rider2 on 03.17.2012 at 11:21 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

K-mag is fertilizer that make melons and fruit sweet just apply small amount twice in fruiting season the only place I've found it where blend fertilizer for pasture grass.

Watermelon grower use in area with high soil sulfur to sweeten melons.


In response to bitter blackberries
clipped on: 09.22.2012 at 03:16 am    last updated on: 09.22.2012 at 03:16 am

RE: Why can't a Mini Parade Rose be grown indoors? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: diane_nj on 01.11.2007 at 05:26 pm in Miniature Roses Forum

Poulsen Rosen is the hybrider of the Parade series, link to photos of the Parade series below. Not a climber, they are miniatures (which refers to the bloom size). Parade roses can grow 3' tall (sometimes more).

Here is a link that might be useful: Parade Series at Poulsen Web Site


Parade mini roses identifier
clipped on: 09.22.2012 at 12:47 am    last updated on: 09.22.2012 at 12:48 am

RE: Why can't a Mini Parade Rose be grown indoors? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: oldroser on 08.06.2007 at 06:49 pm in Miniature Roses Forum

I've been growing roses - big and little, inside for many years but it is no job for the faint of heart. They are easy to grow outside but a real challenge in the house.
For one thing, they are prone to spider mite which thrives in a hot dry environment that has none of the predators it gets ouside. You can cope with it by wrapping a paper towel around the base of the plant to keep the dirt in the pot,inverting the pot in the kitchen sink and washing off the underside with cold water - preferably using the hose attachment on the sink. It has to be done several times a week to wash those little beasties right down the drain.
I can't do that with big roses so use Avid - not all that poisonous to people (about as bad as table salt) but quite expensive to start with - use 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of spray (a few drops to a quart squeeze sprayer). it kills mites dead but has to be repeated several times to get newly hatched mites.
Signs of spider mite: light stipples on leaves; webs underneath leaves (bad infestation); leaves look like they are drying up.
Roses require a lot of light. A south window is best though southwest or south east will do it. Otherwise you will need supplemental lights.
Best to fertilize very lightly and wait until rose is growing strongly to do it. Any liqud fertiizer will do but I generally use half strength.
Haven't had blackspot inside - leaves have to be wet for it to grow. It is possible to have mildew - best remedy is a dishwashing detergent solution - just wash the stuff off with soapy water.
Supermarket roses are forced for bloom and are likely to drop all their leaves when in the house - so much different from greenhoue atmosphere. They will get new leaves but patience is necessary.
A good idea to stand the pots in trays on gravel and put water in trays to increase humidity. Important not to over-water - they can't grow in water-logged soil.
Good luck!


Instructions: How to keep mini roses alive indoors
clipped on: 09.22.2012 at 12:44 am    last updated on: 09.22.2012 at 12:47 am

RE: has anyone had their cat eat their seedlings? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: geeboss on 03.01.2009 at 05:03 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

A light spray of [Hot pepper spray] might have them checking something else to eat. Our neighborhood cat likes to help himself to my plants searching for voles and the like and on occasion took a bite out of a plant that had hot pepper spray and now avoids eating the plants around the house. Hot Pepper spray was for the chipmunks and squirrels.



Hot Peper Spray to keep the cats, chipmunks, and squirrels away
clipped on: 03.02.2009 at 05:37 pm    last updated on: 03.02.2009 at 05:38 pm

Question about saving seeds

posted by: anney on 08.26.2007 at 09:10 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

I've been faithfully saving the seeds of the best OP tomatoes I've grown. But I have a question about the process.

When I extract the seeds, I put them in a small clear plastic jar with a bit of water and slitted Saran Wrap on top. Then I put them in the shade outside, where it's been getting up in the 90s every day.

After two or three days, I can tell by the smell that they've "fermented", but they sometimes don't form a definitive layer of mold or gunk on top. Instead sometimes the liquid gets a little cloudy and the gel disappears.

Do I need to do things differently? Wait longer, or will they be okay?


clipped on: 09.04.2007 at 02:13 am    last updated on: 09.04.2007 at 02:13 am

Paste Tomato Recommendations

posted by: deanriowa on 07.31.2007 at 02:12 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

I am looking for recommendations on a good paste tomato to grow next year.

We mainly make Pico de gallo, Salsa, soups(Mexican), and Bruschetta with them.

I am looking for one that is a good producer and Indet.

What would you recommend.



see all responses to this OP. Good responses and photos.
clipped on: 09.01.2007 at 02:41 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2007 at 02:42 pm

RE: Newbie to tomato planting - need advice (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: hoosiercherokee on 08.31.2007 at 11:38 am in Growing Tomatoes Forum

With regard to the appropriateness of using Miracle Grow type concentrated nutrient products, I think it depends totally on the growing methods and media employed and the correct rate and frequency of application.

For example, Miracle Grow and similar products provide ideal means of delivering nutrients to tomatoes and peppers grown in containers, IMO, and I have had excellent results and repeated success with such products.

Let me address a few points made in a previous post:

1) The build-up of "salts" can easily be flushed out of the growing media in containers and raised beds by occasionally and flooding the growing media a day before you plan on repeating the fertilizer applications.

2) As to "quick fixing" the soil ... when growing in containers, I use a soilless mix of rotted bark fines, sand, ground corn cobs, peat, etc., and the plants depend on supplemental nutrients on a regular basis. Raised beds present a similar problem, but not as dramatic as I fill them with composted manure and other materials supplimental to the other soilless media. I agree that Miracle Grow is rather inappropriate for grade level, traditional dirt farming ... manure, compost, organic fertilizers, and granular chemical fertilizers are more appropriate to that type of gardening.

3) I'm not sure why finely granulated, instantly water soluable nutrients such as Miracle Grow wouldn't be readily available to plants? Maybe Dave can elaborate on that one. But yes, I agree they can be leached out of the growing media easily, and as I mentioned above, it might be appropriate to frequently flush them out and reapply.

4) When using Miracle Grow and similar products on tomatoes, one should pay close attention to the nitrogen percentage as over application will result in excessive foliage production and not address flower/fruit, stem, and root production. That's why such products have formulations especially for bloom boosting, tomato plants, rose plants, azaelias, etc.

Read the labels. The products Korney highlighted above work well for tomatoes especially in containers. I've gotten great results in 5-gallon containers using tomato or rose formula after transplant and before blossom set, Bloom Booster a couple of times after blossom set, and then tomato or rose formula again later in the season.

I flush the containers and reapply fertilizer once every week or ten days until a good fruit set and then less frequently afterwards. I had to water daily this summer due to extreme heat and drought, so I didn't worry a bit about salt build-up in the containers.

In raised beds, I use a modified Earl's Hole Method at planting (do a search), granulated 9-15-15 or 9-12-12 side dressing once on transplant and once again after fruit set, and only use Miracle Grow if I see a serious deficiency. Some varieties are just naturally heavier feeders than others.

Has anyone mentioned Epsom salts in this thread. It's very helpful for trace minerals, magnesium and sulfur, and helps the tomatoes take up needed calcium from the soil. I also believe in bone meal ... don't know why, but my tomatoes seem to love it.

I can't stress enough the importance of heaping on the compost, mulch, grass clippings, whatever you have to build a good mellow growing medium in your beds and ground level gardens. But I also believe that no matter what you add in the way of organic material, tomatoes need more nutrients than what one gets from rotted organic matter. Just my opinion from experience.


clipped on: 09.01.2007 at 02:26 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2007 at 02:26 pm

RE: Newbie to tomato planting - need advice (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: korney19 on 08.31.2007 at 08:47 am in Growing Tomatoes Forum

The Miracle-Gro all purpose 15-30-15, now they call that the bloom booster, maybe it's replacing the 10-52-10.

Here's the most commonly available Miracle-Gro fertilizers, many have similar names and all may not be available everywhere:


MIRACLE-GRO WATER SOLUBLE ALL PURPOSE PLANT FOOD 24-8-16 (This is the one most commonly sold and the one to AVOID!)



There's probably 20 more that I won't bother posting... the ones in bold I would recommend for tomatoes, peppers, etc.

Now you can see why all the confusion about using Miracle-Gro, wrong recommendations, as well as many saying M-G has too much Nitrogen. It only has too much N if the ratio is wrong--15-30-15 is a great ratio for tomatoes in the early half of the season--too many people condemn because of the high first # without paying attention to the balance of the rest of the numbers.

I usually start out with a 15-30-15 or 10-52-10 early in the season to encourage strong roots and flowering, then later in the season swith to something with a high K, like the M-G Tomatoes formula or Plantex 15-15-18.

Hope this helps.



clipped on: 09.01.2007 at 02:23 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2007 at 02:24 pm

RE: Can we pick our tomatoes while still green, (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: ediej1209 on 08.17.2007 at 02:26 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

When the heavy frosts start coming, we pick all the green tomatoes off and wrap them individually in newspaper and put them in a box in a cool but not cold place (like a closet). We've had tomatoes sometimes until close to Christmas using this method.


clipped on: 08.20.2007 at 01:56 pm    last updated on: 08.20.2007 at 01:56 pm

RE: Can we pick our tomatoes while still green, (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: olerist on 08.17.2007 at 11:33 am in Growing Tomatoes Forum

another technique to speed ripening is to damage the roots which causes a release of ethylene and speeds ripening

if you dont have much more to the season this would be ok

all you do is drive a shovel in a 1/3 to 1/2 sized semicircle about 1ft from the base of the plant

be sure to water and feed to encourage the remaining roots

you can expect the plant to wilt too

I wouldnt do it myself. It just can and has been done.


clipped on: 08.20.2007 at 01:55 pm    last updated on: 08.20.2007 at 01:55 pm

great tomato dressing recipie

posted by: buck1173 on 08.20.2007 at 12:39 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

discovered it last week, great way to use up zillions of cherries & grapes (liked used the grapes instead of cherries as they're thinner skinned)... my new favorite salad dressing... had it the way its recommended with crab cakes and it was out of this world.

did learn last night though that this tomato dressing isn't great on tomatoes themselves... it hides the taste of the actual tomato.

its easy, enjoy.,,FOOD_9936_37316,00.html?rsrc=search

Watercress Salad with Roasted Tomato Dressing
Recipe courtesy Tyler Florence, 2007

1 pint cherry tomatoes
1 clove garlic, smashed
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling, plus 1/4 cup for the dressing
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
Handful fresh parsley leaves
1/4 French baguette, thinly sliced croutons
8 ounces (1/2 log) creamy goat cheese, room temperature
2 bunches hydroponic watercress (feathery variety)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Take a roasting dish and lay the tomatoes out with the garlic. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place in the oven and roast for 15 to 20 minutes until the tomatoes have burst and juices are slightly caramelized.

Remove from the oven and place in a blender with all the pan juices. Add the red wine vinegar, 1/4 cup olive oil, sugar, parsley, and salt and pepper. Pulse until well combined. Set aside to cool in the refrigerator while you prepare the croutons.

Take a sheet tray and lay out thin slices of the baguette. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place in the hot oven and bake until golden brown and crispy. The croutons will take 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from oven and while still warm, smear each piece with some goat cheese. Set aside.

Take a platter and layer with goat cheese croutons. Top with mounds of feathery watercress and drizzle over the roasted tomato dressing.


clipped on: 08.20.2007 at 01:45 pm    last updated on: 08.20.2007 at 01:45 pm

RE: OT How do you get those iVIllage videos to stop (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: cindy-loo on 08.15.2007 at 11:24 pm in Pumpkins Squash & Gourds Forum

Check the tomato forum. There was a discussion over there and someone listed how to get rid of the ads. I can't remember the exact post but I'll try to find it. It worked for me!! Found it-

Try this:

I don't know if there's some additional mozilla thing that will get rid of the ads you're still getting, but this will block them: (copied from another thread here)

"The Universal Solution: (if you have a PC)

This will work on Windows systems for all browsers; IE, FireFox and Netscape.

The Windows operating system provides a system-level method to block specific IP addresses before they even get to the browser. To effect this solution you need to edit a Windows system file called "HOSTS". This file is located in the directory:

Windows 98: C:\WINDOWS

Open the file in Notepad. Cut the following from this post and paste it to the end of the file.

Close and re-open your browser and all the ads will be gone.

Unfortunately, iVillage may in the future buy ads from a new source. In this event the new ad source will have to be added to the list. "



clipped on: 08.20.2007 at 12:44 am    last updated on: 08.20.2007 at 12:44 am

Help Please!!! I need to convince..........

posted by: brazosvalleygardener on 05.08.2007 at 10:36 am in Growing Tomatoes Forum

my wife that it is perfectly safe to "can" tomatoes. I'm not referring to the process but the finished product. Obviously we have never done this before but I grew up with my grandparents and observed and sampled tons of tomatoes that were canned by my grandmother.

Any real life experiances with canning here? Methods??



clipped on: 08.14.2007 at 04:35 pm    last updated on: 08.14.2007 at 04:35 pm

RE: Pretty Uglies (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: carolyn137 on 06.30.2007 at 11:31 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

The variety Ugly was named and marketed by a woman from FL. It was felt that it was one of the many Costolutos from Italy. Costoluto means ribbed in Italian.

Seeing the popularity of Ugly the Procacci Bros from Philly introduced the variety Ugly Ripe which is simply Marmande VF, a well known French heirloom.

They went further and in a nasty takeover bought out the Ugly folks.

Both varieties are grown and sold, usually grown in FL in the summer and Mexico in the winter.

Many here know of the problem that the Procacci's had in trying to convince the FL TOmato Comission that they could export the Ugly Ripes out of FL b'c the comission said that they didn't meet their specs. Long and interesting story and there are many threads here about that.



clipped on: 07.12.2007 at 11:56 am    last updated on: 08.14.2007 at 02:58 pm

How to Grow the Tomato and 115 Ways to Prepare it for the Table

posted by: gumby_ct on 08.10.2007 at 11:20 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

It seems that GW has deleted a previous post of the same topic.
'tis the season to be using the many tomatoes and the web site is still active... so here it is again.

is a link to

How to Grow the Tomato and 115 Ways to Prepare it for the Table

Here is a link that might be useful: How to Grow the Tomato and 115 Ways to Prepare it for the Table


clipped on: 08.14.2007 at 02:21 pm    last updated on: 08.14.2007 at 02:22 pm

RE: Lousy tasting plum tomatoes (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: billtex on 08.09.2007 at 08:20 am in Growing Tomatoes Forum

The method of how you fertilize really effects the taste , try fish emulsion for better tasting toms. bill


clipped on: 08.10.2007 at 03:38 am    last updated on: 08.10.2007 at 03:38 am

tomato info site

posted by: jason_2007 on 08.08.2007 at 10:38 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

hello tomato lovers, just wanted to share a site i just came across,it has a lot of good info at least for a newcomer like me.

Here is a link that might be useful: veggie cage


clipped on: 08.10.2007 at 02:07 am    last updated on: 08.10.2007 at 02:07 am

RE: Picked first red Brandywine today! (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: bigdaddyj on 07.22.2007 at 09:54 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

I have grown all three Red Brandywine's in the TGS catalog.

The Landis Valley is the true Red Brandywine.

The large PL and RL "Red Brandywines" are nice large tomatoes but certainly not in the Sudduth Brandywine class regarding taste.

I no longer grow any of the "Red Brandywines".


clipped on: 07.22.2007 at 11:25 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2007 at 11:25 pm

Tomatoes for a 5 gallon bucket

posted by: fishymamas on 07.12.2007 at 06:38 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

I have a rather specific situation, and need a few suggestions:

As part of our science classes next spring, we're going to do a project growing some vessies in 5 Gal buckets to give to residents of various seniors around town (we live in a town with 16 senior homes, many of which had the concrete slab patio/balcony available). So I need suggestions on:

1. which tomatoes do well in 5 gallon buckets (I'm thinking bush tomatoes, with either a cage or spike to keep them behaving), but it needs to be easy to grow in zone 9 low humidity.

2. Taste is important, but so is quanity, as many residents don't get the fresh fruit intake they should (veggies in cans are cheaper for the resident kitchens to provide).

3. Sources for seeds mentioned is very helpful.

We're planning on providing 50-100 buckets of veggie plants, with 1/2 being tomatoes.


clipped on: 07.12.2007 at 10:03 pm    last updated on: 07.12.2007 at 10:03 pm

RE: Time to start thinking about MAGTAG 2007! (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: lynnt on 03.13.2007 at 10:11 pm in Mid-Atlantic Gardening Forum

I made the cherry-tomato pie. I used both green and ripe fruit, cut in half, with butter, white and brown sugar, orange zest, a bit of mace, and cinnamon for seasoning. I used minute Tapioca for thickener instead of cornstarch. The lattice crust let the fruit show through.

Glad you liked it!

There is a nice river nearby to fish or canoe on, too -- kept my non-tomatoing sweetie happy.



clipped on: 07.12.2007 at 02:09 am    last updated on: 07.12.2007 at 02:09 am

RE: Container tomato PICs (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: bingster on 07.05.2007 at 10:04 am in Growing Tomatoes Forum

For Kudzu9...I'm in zone 7b in the Panhandle of Florida....Fort Walton Beach area.

For Zimfrio...I went to Lowes during the spring and they had 18 gallon tote boxes on sale for $4.47 each. I bought 20 of them to make my 10 containers. I planted two plants per container. To build one container, I spent about $20 which included 2 cubic feet of Miracle Grow potting mix which was $10. I did not trim any foliage but I did prune all the suckers I could find so that I would only have one main stem running up my twine. However, I still got a lot of side stems which I had to subsequently tie to my existing twine. As a result, I had a lot of foliage...but to no ill effects.

For earthworm73...Google "" and you will find his link entitled "Earthbox". You can also check Sunsi's post above. Josho has provided complete, ecellent instructions on how to build your own self-watering container (Earthbox). There is also a company that sells Earthboxes under that name but they are very expensive...on the order of $40 apiece. Josho has done a great job of showing how to build the same thing for about $10-12 each. Basically, what you do is buy two containers, cut one about 6 inches from the bottom all the way around, and then invert it in the other container. This makes a reservoir that you fill with water from your PVC pipe. Speaking of the pipe, yes, I did drill some holes in the bottom 3" of the pipes.

For all...I just pulled my first plants which have quit producing. The root systems were very wonder the plants are so healthy. Also thanks to all for your posts. It's fun talking to other tomato lovers!


clipped on: 07.11.2007 at 03:26 am    last updated on: 07.11.2007 at 03:26 am

RE: Folks Want! But Folks dont grow nothin? (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: crabjoe on 06.29.2007 at 08:00 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Hmmmm... I remember when I had a problem with giving away maters to folks that were demanding. That was a few years ago when, which was my last crop (I;m growing them again this year though). Back then, I didn't consider attitude as a problem. My problem was I didn't have enough to give away to everyone that wanted them.

As for a problem with demanding people. I do have that problem with crabs. Yes, I go crabbing and when I go, I usually bring back a bushel. Out of that bushel, I only need a couple dozen so I give the rest away. The problem is when I give them to away, everyone else that finds out demands them because in MD, the blue crab is King when it comes to seafood and they are EXPENSIVE.

These people, I tell them flat out to go buy some at the store, because it's no picnic catching crabs. Shoot, it takes me a few hours just to bait my trot line, over an hour of driving to get to the water then all day spent on the water to catch them. That's not the end because after the day is over, I still have to unbait my line, drive home and clean up. Other then the actual act of crabbing, the rest is a PITA and expensive... Think about how much gas alone costs to tow a boat around.

When it comes to crabs, I must say that fresh caught crabs always taste better then store bought and people know it. And if they want them for free, they better ask very nicely and never demand them.

BTW, these days, I rarely go crabbing due to cost. I still will take a close friend or a kid crabbing that haven't experienced it, but I can buy crab cheaper then I can catch them now. The reason is because I can buy directly from commercial fishermen at the dock.

What I usually do is go out fishing for the day then when I get back, I ask one of the commercial guys at the dock. If no one's around, I call the local family owned crab processing places. They will usually sell me a bushel for $10-$20 over what they paid.


clipped on: 07.10.2007 at 07:53 pm    last updated on: 07.10.2007 at 07:53 pm

RE: What I learned so far this season 2007... (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: sunsi on 06.19.2007 at 02:50 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

laura_k Quote:
"Groundhogs also don't like the smell of rotten garlic/eggs"

There she goes again with those eggs SHUT THE WINDOWS, Wilma! BUT, Fred it's 90 degrees outside!!! :D

"I would love to hear about what little suprises others have discovered"

Sometimes bears don't _____ in the woods, SURPRISE! lol

Ok, seriously I learned that container grown plants need an application of hydrated limestone the amount is determined by amount of potting soil.


clipped on: 06.19.2007 at 08:15 pm    last updated on: 06.19.2007 at 08:16 pm

beneficial plant in the garden

posted by: habman on 06.19.2007 at 06:07 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Ocimum basilicum "Magical Michael"
It attracts bees.
It also supposedly repels nasty aphids, mites, and tomato hornworms.
Sounds like a good friend to have in the garden.


From parkseeds

Magical Michael is a very floriferous, wonderfully scented mounded plant. We grew it in our trial gardens last summer, and it attracted more bees than other plant we have ever grown, period.

The plant forms a nice, plump mound 12 to 18 inches tall and 12 to 17 inches wide, topped by hundreds (maybe thousands!) of tiny cream-colored flowers (from purple calyces) all summer long. The foliage is so fragrant that to brush against it is to start your mouth watering for Italian food! This is a perfect choice for the vegetable garden as well as the border and bed, because it repels aphids, mites, and tomato hornworms.


clipped on: 06.19.2007 at 08:13 pm    last updated on: 06.19.2007 at 08:13 pm

RE: Whiteflies!!! aiy yai yai! (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: torquill on 01.06.2006 at 04:21 am in Tomato Pests & Diseases Forum

I know it's been a while since this thread was active, but I thought I'd pass on the solution I use... Pantene makes a shampoo called "Pantene Pro-V Clarifying shampoo". Pick up a bottle of that specific shampoo at your supermarket, then add a couple of drops to a spray bottle and spray all the leaves. Make sure to get the undersides of the leaves in particular. Repeat the spray two to three days later.

My experience with this stuff is that it nukes all stages of the life cycle, somehow. Regular insecicidal soap kills only the adults, but the shampoo seems to give good control for at least a couple of weeks. It's enough of an effect that I have a formal biology project planned to make a study of it, alongside insecticidal soap and malathion... If I manage to do the study, I'll spread the word on what I find.



clipped on: 05.19.2007 at 08:37 pm    last updated on: 05.19.2007 at 08:37 pm

RE: whitefly invasion (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: hunter_tx on 05.03.2006 at 08:19 pm in Tomato Pests & Diseases Forum

I had a problem with them a couple of weeks ago, and I remembered a thread a couple of years ago that suggested Pantene clarifying shampoo and water sprayed topically. I had also read awhile back that seaweed spray was effective, so being the curious sort, and willing to try unconventional methods, I made up a spray with one gallon of water, a "squirt" of the shampoo, and a couple of tablespoons of seaweed liquid, and applied with a pressure sprayer. I had my doubts that it would work since whiteflies can be such a stickler of a problem, but I haven't seen but three or four since. I'll apply again at the first sign of a reinfestation, and maybe even as a preventative, but it has worked in this one-time experience (so far).
Mrs H


clipped on: 05.19.2007 at 08:29 pm    last updated on: 05.19.2007 at 08:29 pm

RE: Squirrels eat tomato's? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: whizzer75 on 08.26.2006 at 09:01 am in Tomato Pests & Diseases Forum

I got blood meal at Home Depot. Vigoro was the brand.


clipped on: 05.19.2007 at 08:16 pm    last updated on: 05.19.2007 at 08:16 pm

RE: Squirrels eat tomato's? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: whizzer75 on 08.10.2006 at 08:34 pm in Tomato Pests & Diseases Forum

I've tried the water bowl, cayenne pepper on the ground, Garlic and pepper sprayed on tomatos, CDs tied to supports and even hot sauce injected into tomatos. They really enjoyed the injected ones, thought it was salsa.
So far I have lost one tomato since using blood meal.
BTW, I've caught and relocated three in unbaited Havahart traps. They ignore the traps until ants clean up the bait. Go figure !!


clipped on: 05.19.2007 at 08:15 pm    last updated on: 05.19.2007 at 08:15 pm

RE: Squirrels eat tomato's? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: becca_grower on 08.09.2006 at 10:00 pm in Tomato Pests & Diseases Forum



clipped on: 05.19.2007 at 08:14 pm    last updated on: 05.19.2007 at 08:14 pm

RE: Squirrels eat tomato's? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: dilbert on 07.23.2006 at 02:42 pm in Tomato Pests & Diseases Forum

Leave a bowl of water near your tomatoes for animals to drink and they should stop eating your tomatoes.


clipped on: 05.19.2007 at 08:14 pm    last updated on: 05.19.2007 at 08:14 pm

RE: Squirrels eat tomato's? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: whizzer75 on 07.04.2006 at 10:27 am in Tomato Pests & Diseases Forum

This is the first year I haven't lost about 60% of my tomatos to squirrels. So far not one tomato eaten by a squirrel.
Someone suggested putting blood meal around the plants, so I tried it. I grow in earthboxes. I sprinkle a couple of tablespoonfulls of blood meal on top of the plastic cover and replenish after rain. Blood meal is 14-0-0, so don't put it around plants unless you want lots of foliage.
I saw one squirrel put his front feet on the container, take a sniff and immediately back off.
Keeping fingers crossed.


clipped on: 05.19.2007 at 08:13 pm    last updated on: 05.19.2007 at 08:13 pm

RE: Planted in Miracle Grow Garden soil... help (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: farkee on 05.04.2007 at 12:00 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

I have never had any luck with using bagged 'soil' of any brand. I even did some experiments where I just planted the tomato right in a bag of potting soil. I got a few tomatoes but the results were pitiful compared to lighter mixes.

In your situation I think I would sccop out plant, dump all the container's soil in a big pile (or wheelbarrow) and mix in quite a bit of perlite. Then refill and replant.


clipped on: 05.05.2007 at 12:14 am    last updated on: 05.05.2007 at 12:14 am

RE: If you could only plant 3... (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: kudzu9 on 04.05.2007 at 10:13 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

For those willing to grow from seed, I don't think you can beat the heirloom varieties available from

My favorites so far:
-German Pink (best tomato I've tasted in my life)
-Black from Tula
-Crnkovic Yugoslavian


clipped on: 04.18.2007 at 06:11 pm    last updated on: 04.18.2007 at 06:11 pm

RE: F3 generation super sonics (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: carolyn137 on 01.29.2007 at 07:32 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

I just harvested some tomatoes from the F2 gen from my plants and I dont see much of a difference from the F1. Do these stay true for multiple generations?


How many F2 plants did you set out? If not enough plants are put out you may miss the gene segregation.

Allegedly Jet Star, Moreton Hybrid and Supersonic, all Harris hybrids, have but two parents. And I think those three have the best tastes of almost all the hybrids I've grown.

I just dehybridized Ramapo, another hybrid that I love and it has but two parents, and in the F2 I did see different plants and fruits, and had planted the hybrid at the same time for comparison. But saved seed from the appropriate F2 did give plants/fruits in the F3 that were very close to the original hybrid, as several here know when I sent out both F2 and F3 seed in my last and final seed offer here.

The only way for you to know if you have a genetically stable OP for Supersonic is to put out as many plants as you can at each generation and look for possible gene segregation.

I know a couple of others who plant to dehybridize Supersonic but I don't think they've started to do it yet.

Again, how many F2 plants did you put out?



clipped on: 04.17.2007 at 10:40 pm    last updated on: 04.17.2007 at 10:40 pm

RE: organic tomato magic (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bigdaddyj on 04.16.2007 at 07:45 am in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Save your money. I am an organic grower. Organic gardenenig is rewarding in more ways than one. For me it's the ONLY way. Some of these assertions i just read at that site are plain WRONG. All you need to know to grow organically great tomatoes is online and is FREE.

Start here:


clipped on: 04.17.2007 at 12:00 am    last updated on: 04.17.2007 at 12:00 am

LynnT - Where do you get your free compost?

posted by: californian_in_dc on 04.13.2007 at 08:26 am in Mid-Atlantic Gardening Forum

Hi Lynnt:

Cfmuehling responded to one of my threads and said that you get free compost somewhere in Arlington. Would you mind sharing what kind of compost it is and how I could also get some? Thank you!



clipped on: 04.15.2007 at 09:15 pm    last updated on: 04.15.2007 at 09:15 pm

Another garden swap . . .

posted by: darcieg on 04.13.2007 at 08:30 pm in Mid-Atlantic Gardening Forum

I found this on another website and thought this group might be interested:

Plant Swap

Saturday April 28, Noon - 2:00 p.m. Branch out and join us for this exciting opportunity to enhance your home grown habitats. Bring some cuttings of your favorite native plants and you can swap with other area green thumbs while discussing your gardening successes or even your pit-falls! You'll also have the opportunity to learn about creating a backyard wildlife habitat from members of the Arlington Community Wildlife Habitat team. For more information call 703-228-6535. Free. No Registration needed. Meet at Long Branch Nature Center, 625 S. Carlin Springs Rd., Arlington, VA 22204.

Watershed Friendly Garden Tour

Sunday, June 3rd, 1 - 5 PM. Join us for the 5th annual Watershed Friendly Garden Tour. Visit properties that feature native plants, raingardens, rain barrels and cisterns, permeable pavement, wildlife habitat, and other environmentally friendly features. More details to come!


clipped on: 04.15.2007 at 08:28 pm    last updated on: 04.15.2007 at 08:28 pm

'Seeds From Italy'???

posted by: lvsmaters on 04.13.2007 at 02:50 am in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Newbie to the forum here.

I'm not new to gardening, but am new to starting tom's from seed. I love to cook Italian sauces, make pizza from scratch etc...

From the very helpful info gathered here, I made the decision a few weeks ago to start some plants from seed.

I ordered seeds from, Seeds from Italy. I started them 3/31 in peat pellets and peat pots with starter mix. As soon as the sprouted/germinatated they went under the shop lights on a timer.

All plants are doing very well, with second leaves forming above the cotyledans(sp)

My ????....Anyone have experience with Franchi Sementi seeds, plants etc...

The varieties I have started are:

-S. Marzano, "Redorta" (paste, plum type)
-Red Pear Sel.Franchi (big beefsteak)
-Gigante Liscio (big beefsteak)
-Montecarlo Ibridio F.1 (large round beefsteak)

Just curious if anyone has experience with these???


clipped on: 04.15.2007 at 08:24 pm    last updated on: 04.15.2007 at 08:24 pm

RE: 'Seeds From Italy'??? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: cochiseaz8 on 04.14.2007 at 01:29 am in Growing Tomatoes Forum

I have never had less than 90 % germination from any seed tomato from grow italian.. the tomatos are fabulous, though some produce more than others... the giant red pears are amoung the few my ( acid reflux) husband can eat, because they are sweet, not acid, the san marzano redortas are so heavy a producer that it is hard to keep up on canning ,, drying.. vigorious vines, and produce fruit till a HAAARD FROST,, 22 * didn't touch them.. they were tough till the bitter end, then I pulled them and hung them in the garage .. we had fresh tom's on christmas, what a treat!!... The only fret I have with them is that I spent a goodly amount of cash on mushroom spores(those directions , I followed to the letter),, I got a stellar crop of wheat grass ( which the spores where sown on) but am in my 2'nd season of ... will they grow???....... but to answer that question,,,I have had better luck with no one else


clipped on: 04.15.2007 at 08:23 pm    last updated on: 04.15.2007 at 08:23 pm

RE: Rub your tomato seedlings... (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: anney on 04.15.2007 at 04:57 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

The link below is the best description of what "hardening up" and "bracing" one's tomato plants actually causes the plants to do, the physiological changes that occur. The process of readying your plants for the garden includes making sure the stems are sturdy enough to withstand the wind, and some kind of mechanical stimulation, such as a gentle fan or a sheltered place where only gentle breezes blow, is recommended to strengthen the cuticle/"epidermis" of the stems before setting the plants out in the open.

These physical, physiological responses to air movement, light, and water need to occur gradually so that the plants can toughen up and make it in "the real world" with all its challenges.

It's a pretty straightforward process, but the article describes what happens inside the plant during this process. Might be helpful to those of us who like to know why we're doing what we do!

Here is a link that might be useful: Bracing Up: Hardening Off of Transplants


clipped on: 04.15.2007 at 08:20 pm    last updated on: 04.15.2007 at 08:20 pm

RE: Is Miracle Grow Fertilizer alright? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: hoosiercherokee on 04.15.2007 at 06:13 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Miracle Grow now offers what they call Miracle Grow Organic Choice . I saw it on the shelves yesterday at Lowes.

The subject already has had extensive coverage at another GW forum. See Miracle Grow Gone Organic?

Personally, I didn't take time to read all of that thread because within the first several messages was lots of negative BS ... and who hasn't heard all the blather about "organic" vs "chemical" before?

I've used Miracle Grow and similar products for years ... sparingly and only when needed. I usually give my seedlings a little boost of the "all purpose" formula if I'm having to hold them too long (like this daggone never ending winter) and some chlorosis pops up ... and I augment that with Epsom salts to encourage better nitrogen uptake. Both the Miracle Grow and the Epsom salts are added at half the recommended rate to a gallon of warm water. Then each plant is dosed with about a tablespoon of the solution and sprayed with a mist of the same.

When my plants are out in the garden and it looks like they will begin to bloom in the next two weeks, I give them a dose of the "bloom booster" formula ... and after they've set a good load of fruit, I give them a booster shot of "tomato" or "rose" formula ... whichever I have on hand.

Usually, I mix at half the recommended rate and apply conservatively; and I've never had a problem and don't seem to have that famous "all foliage no fruit" problem so many people blather on about.

Now that Miracle Grow is marketing "Organic Choice," I'll try that out this year. What the heck? Oh ... by the way, I don't use any herbicides, insecticides or fungicides on tomatoes and really don't see the harm in a little chemical nitrogen/phosphorus/potasium and trace minerals unless they're used in such quantities as to pollute ground water or storm water run-off into streams. Besides, plants don't absorb organic matter like fish flesh, rotten leaves or manure until the nutrients have been reduced to their soluable chemical state anyway ... so we're really only talking about "organic" vs. "chemical" sources for the components of the fertilizer.

The real advantage for me with products like Miracle Grow is they fit well with my methods of growing in raised beds, containers and homemade grow bags where I like to apply a solution directly to the growing media rather than broadcasting and tilling in or appling a granulated side dressing, etc. And any salt build-up can easily be flushed out of the growing methods I use.


clipped on: 04.15.2007 at 06:17 pm    last updated on: 04.15.2007 at 06:17 pm

RE: Tomato's for containers (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: seeker11 on 02.10.2007 at 01:44 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Hi Sandy,

I grow all of my tomatoes in containers, and you really can grow any tomato you want in one (provided the container is large enough and it gets adequate food, water, and sunlight).

However, support can become a big issue, especially if your containers will be on concrete, wood, bricks, etc. (where you can't just drive a couple of stakes into the ground).

Another factor is whether you'll be starting from seed, or buying plants either locally or on-line. If you're buying plants, your choices will be very limited if buying locally, or much less (but still somewhat) limited if doing mail order.

Personally, I avoid cherry tomatoes, since I don't much like them anyway, and they tend to be huge, sprawling plants.

Silvery Fir Tree has always done exceptionally well for me, even in relatively small containers. However, some people don't like its taste. It's definitely not a sweet tomato.

New Big Dwarf is fabulous in containers. It has a very sturdy central stem and stays 3-4' tall and not very wide. Supporting them is easy, and the fruit is truly delicious.

Others that have done very well for me are Kimberly, Early Wonder, Siletz, Citron Compact, Lime Green Salad, Azoychka, and Box Car Willie. In general, I haven't done well with very large-fruited varieties, but I think that was due more to lack of sunlight than the fact that they were in containers.

Can you tell us more about your growing conditions, and what kind of tomato you like?



clipped on: 02.10.2007 at 04:49 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2007 at 04:49 pm

RE: Tomato's for containers (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: gtomato on 02.10.2007 at 01:20 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Bush Champion from Totally Tomato.

HUGE toms for a container plant. And alot of them. Determinate.


clipped on: 02.10.2007 at 04:48 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2007 at 04:48 pm

RE: Hydro tomatoes in winter w/pics (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: stoneunhenged on 02.10.2007 at 03:50 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

I would agree that the most profitable use of the system probably isn't for tomatoes. It's funny, you call these hydro shops for advice, and it's pretty clear that there are a lot of "tomato growers" among the 20-somethings. In fact, I add some kind of organic sweetening agent to my hydro water that I'm guessing wasn't developed with Mortgage Lifters in mind.


clipped on: 02.10.2007 at 04:37 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2007 at 04:37 pm

What does your seed-starting setup look like?

posted by: instar8 on 01.21.2007 at 03:25 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

I was just reading through the "indeterminate tomato support" post, really enjoyed all the great suggestions, which have stimulated lots of ideas for my own experiments this year.

Since its a cold, snowy, dreary day, and too early to do any REAL growing where I am, (yall just go ahead and gloat down south) Im also dreaming of ways to improve my seed-starting set-upor maybe someone else can borrow my ideas, while I steal someone elses. Anywho.what does your setup look like?

My house is a modest modular, equipped with one of those silly garden tub bathrooms. My tub does actually have the whirlpool jets, but theyre so feeble its not worth the hot water to fill it up. Theres also a small skylight, a small SW window, and the doors are glass, leading into a master bedroom with two good-sized S windows. Its a happy place for houseplants!

I have 4 12" wooden planks set across the tub, and four 4 fluorescent fixtures supported on cinder blocks, accommodating 8 standard flats. It worked nicely last year, my water supply is right there, and any spillage goes down the drain!

I have lots more fixtures, and last year had two additional setups on the floor of the bedroom (its my plant and workout room, I use a smaller N facing bedroom to sleep in) with plastic underneath and no-hole flats, for a total of 16 potential flats. I have one heat mat, big enough for two flats at a time. I use powerstrips and timers to regulate the lights, and keep a box fan going on low in the doorway.

In addition, I have my eye on a nice polycarbonate 7 coldframe from FarmTek Growers Supply, all of which, in theory, should enable me to start and harden off everything I need for my halfacre of garden this year.

Your turn...;~)


clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 04:38 pm    last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 04:39 pm

Basil leaves a light green...?

posted by: wolf on 02.23.2006 at 05:51 pm in Herbs Forum basil and peppermint are doing pretty well...but the leaves on my basil(about 1"- 1 1/2" tall) are a light green. Is this right, or are they supposed to be dark? If not..what can I do to help them?


clipped on: 01.20.2007 at 11:55 pm    last updated on: 01.20.2007 at 11:55 pm

Non-basil pesto?

posted by: nygardener on 06.20.2005 at 09:37 pm in Herbs Forum

I love pesto ... but I have surpluses of herbs other than basil that I'd like to make into interesting pesto variations. Ideally, they'd be blended with flavors that harmonize the way traditional pesto's ingredients do. (My extras include lovage, thyme, lemon thyme, tarragon, sweet marjoram, Greek oregano, sage, rosemary, parsley, chives, chive flowers, garlic chives, salad burnet, spearmint, chervil, and cilantro.)

What "nontraditional" pesto recipes have you invented, found, or enjoyed, using the bounty of your herb garden?


clipped on: 01.20.2007 at 11:53 pm    last updated on: 01.20.2007 at 11:53 pm

RE: How does Amish Paste compare to San Marzano? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: carolyn137 on 01.19.2007 at 10:24 am in Growing Tomatoes Forum

I've grown Amish Paste in years past and found it very productive, even in our Summer heat. How does it compare with San Marzano in taste and productivity?


Since I have never considered Amish Paste to be a paste tomato b'c it's too juicy, the comparison with San Marzano really isn't a good one for me to judge.

Yes, I've grown San Marzano and I would call it a paste tomato but I prefer varieties such as Heidi and Martino's Roma and Opalka to San Marzano. All are prolific, especially Heidi ( originally from Cameroon and a fave of many) and I prefer the taste of all of them over San Marzano. Just my personal opinion.

As far as making sauces, most of my tomato friends prefer to use the absolute best tasting tomatoes and thus don't specifically grow paste tomatoes. They just cook the sauce down a bit more, which is no problem and you end up with fabulous tasting sauces to slather on the pasta. LOL



clipped on: 01.19.2007 at 04:02 pm    last updated on: 01.19.2007 at 04:02 pm

RE: Electric tomato strainer (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: paulc_gardener on 01.19.2007 at 12:51 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

If you are wanting juice from tomatoes, I bought a juicer maching from Wal-Mart for about 50.00. I just core the tomatoes and put them skins and all. We make about 20 quarts a year. Very fast process. I think it's called Mr. Juicer. It does all kinds of vegatables.


clipped on: 01.19.2007 at 03:57 pm    last updated on: 01.19.2007 at 03:57 pm

RE: Choosing a large, mid-season, tasty red (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: carolyn137 on 01.02.2007 at 05:09 am in Growing Tomatoes Forum

For the Red Brandywine, I've seen the PL, RL, and the OTV version listed. Which is the one to grow? Or, is there a particular catalog that supplies a reliable seed?

There's a lot of wrong RB seed out there.

REd Brandywine is RL.

There are two versions, both an RL and a PL listed at TGS and neither one is true RB. Long story. If you get RB from TGS you have to get the one that has Landis attached to the name and while it says a strain, it isn't, it's just the source of the RB ( see below).

Sandhill Preservation has true RB as do some other places, particularly b'c Tom Hauch who owns that company was the first to get it out of the SSE Yearbook.And he considers it his signature variety,

Tom gave seeds to Steve Miller at the Landis Museum in PA b'c they concentrate on Amish varieties of which RB is.

The origin of all other heirloom Brandywines is not known .

OTV Brandywine is PL and red and was the result of a X pollination between Yellow Brandwywine and ??? that occurred in the garden of Craig LeHoullier and I dehybridized the hybrid to the OP which Craig and I named OTV Brandywine, after Off The Vine, a newsletter on heirloom tomatoes that we were publishing at that time.

OTV Brandywine is PL and beefsteak shaped while true RB is RL and pretty much globe shaped, maybe a bit flattened (oblate)

I like both of them.



clipped on: 01.19.2007 at 05:27 am    last updated on: 01.19.2007 at 05:27 am

Choosing a large, mid-season, tasty red

posted by: stage_rat on 12.31.2006 at 12:01 am in Growing Tomatoes Forum

I've had a great time searching through old threads, and I've added some more tomatoes to my list of things to grow, but I wasn't able to find the red tomato I'd hoped for. If anyone has an opinion to offer on some they've grown, I'd appreciate it. Here are the parameters I hope the tomato will fit:

1. Open-pollinated, so I can save my own seeds
2. Red (I have several nice pinks already)
3. Hopefully 80 days or under!
4. Big beefsteak size, or larger
5. Tasty--my relatives want "that old-fashioned taste"
6. Seeds that are commercially available, or that you're willing to trade with me after telling me of the perfect tomato! :)

Thanks so much!


clipped on: 01.19.2007 at 05:21 am    last updated on: 01.19.2007 at 05:21 am