Home Depot

Here is a link that might be useful: Amerock Blackrock Square Knob

jessrae - my pulls are from Amerock and are from the Essential'Z collection. The product number is BP9362-G10 and they are 128 mm center-to-center.

The drawers under the cooktop are 36", the drawers on either side are 18". The paint is called Limestone (Dunn Edwards #6233).

Examples of rules:

• All 7" pulls.
• All pulls centered with 4" of drawer(door) open on either side.
• All vertical pulls 3" and all horizontal pulls 12"
• All pulls 12" except on drawers more than 24" wide, with two 6" pulls

The most important thing is making sure that your lazy susan door's pull doesn't bang into stuff or prevent the door from opening the whole way. Same on the L upper. If there's no good way to do it, a low profile single knob, or a groove for opening without hardware might be the best solution, letting one of your rules be "not including corner".

If you want to use the same pulls on everything, including the DW, I think the 8" or 12" pull will work well. The 8" would be better if you want two on the big drawers, and the 12" would work better if you want one centered there, but either should work either way. Yes, I think the 8" will go with everything.

PAPER FACING
Please note that Vihara glass tiles are “PAPER FACED” for the ease of installation and for overall appearance.
Paper facing is used on Vihara glass because they are transparent or translucent, where mesh backing will
not work. Please be certain to mount Vihara glass tiles with the paper facing out, to be removed after
the mosaic has been seated into the thin-set.

CUTTING
• Vihara can be cut with the use of a high quality wet saw with a diamond blade designed for
cutting glass. Pieces should be cut individually to avoid saturating paper facing. To prevent rough
edges, glass tiles must be cut in an extremely slow manner.
•

This post was edited by msrose on Thu, Apr 18, 13 at 22:46

A link to our original lighting plan is below. As you'll see, it called for one can light, but we decided to live without that and I'm very glad we did. We've got standard CFL bulbs in all the fixtures, and they are plenty adequate in terms of light. In the 4 main high ceiling fixtures I think we have 75W or 100W equivalents, but they are all we use for most activities in the kitchen. Washing dishes is the big exception as I almost always use the dedicated lights there. The cooktop is another exception as I often will turn on the lights in the hood. But if I turn on the island lights or the nook light or the chalkboard lights, then I often turn off the 4 general lights.

That's not to say I wouldn't put in the different task lights- I definitely would as it just feels right to have light directly above you when you're going to be somewhere a long time.

The undercabinet lights are the only ones I sometimes question. It can be nice to have them, but something doesn't feel quite right about them and they don't quite fit with the rest of the kitchen and the rest of the lighting. There are probably more dedicated posts on this, but they are LED and incredibly bright and we also may not have bought the best spectrum? The spectrum is too white like CFL. But we buy the CFL bulbs that are wrapped in a glass bulb (for the look of incandescents) and that must give them a slightly different hue. The LED lights are raw and they are honestly either too much light or too white of light (not exactly sure which), so I almost never use them except for deep cleaning or long cooking projects.

One thing you won't see on the plan which turns out to be incredibly important is the distance from the counter/table/island/etc at which the lights hang down (from, in our case, a 9 1/2 foot ceiling). Ours hang about as low as we could get away without having them in the line of sight. If you're still interested (I know you posted a long time ago), let me know and I can measure that distance for you for each one.

BTW, my apologies for the delayed response- didn't see there were new questions on this thread. Folks can feel free to send me an email through the "Send an email" link on my page, too, if I'm unresponsive :)

Here is a link that might be useful: Kitchen Lighting Plan

Mixing them up is a wonderful sensory experience.

Here are a few that I do myself:

Apple Pie Blend
� cup (or 24 parts) cinnamon
1 tablespoon (or 6 parts) allspice
2 teaspoon (or 4 parts) nutmeg
� teaspoon (or 1 part) cardamom, optional

Pumpkin Pie Blend
� cup (or 24 parts) cinnamon
2 tablespoon (or 12 parts) ginger
2 teaspoon (or 4 parts) ground cloves
1 teaspoon (or 2 parts) nutmeg
� teaspoon (or 1 part) cardamom, optional

Curry Blend
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) cayenne
� cup (or 8 parts) granulated garlic
� cup (or 12 parts) paprika
� cup (or 4 parts) turmeric
1 � cup (or 24 parts) curry powder

Mexican Rub for Pork
1 teaspoon granulated garlic
1 teaspoon cumin
� teaspoon (or 8 parts) epizote
� teaspoon (or 8 parts) kosher salt
� teaspoon (or 4 parts) freshly ground black pepper
� teaspoon (or 4 parts) ground cloves
⅛ teaspoon (or 2 parts) oregano
1 pinch (or 1 part) cinnamon

Emeril's "Essence"
2 � tablespoon paprika
2 tablespoon (or 2 parts) salt
2 tablespoon (or 2 parts) garlic powder
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) black pepper
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) onion powder
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) cayenne
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) dried oregano
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) dried thyme

Combine all ingredients thoroughly and store in an airtight jar or container.

I got valley white granite a few weeks ago, and I love the lightness and soft movement in it.

One of your best bets in the Caesarstone line would be Misty Carrera - a friend of mine has it and I love the color, but sometimes I look at it and think the patterning is a little off. I think you might also look at Caesarstone Pebble which like the Misty Carrera comes polished and honed. Although it's gray, it's a warm gray and it looks fabulous with off white cabinets and with dark wood.

In the Silestone line you might look at Vortium. I liked the smaller sample of it a lot -but the larger piece not as much.....

I will get into why at the end.

We got the idea from Fine Home building magazine. It's basically like installing electric underfloor heating. Uses the same elements.

Built a base of 3/4" plywood. Over that a layer of metal bars and plywood, 1/4". Then a 1 1/2" decorative flexible strip was put around this base. Then heating elements wires were laid and then covered with thinset up to the edge of the trim. The granite was laid over this.

Here are some photos.

This is the base under construction.

Base in place.

Heating element.

Outlets and thermostat.

Finished.

Could not get the thermostat in black.

DH tells me that Thermosoft has a new product that would have made this even easier.

Also note, our base had to be designed to support the granite. Talk to your granite fabricator/installer to see what support you would need for the granite and the heating element.

We plan to sit alot at our island and eat some meals. We find unheated granite too cold in the winter for comfort. The heat is completely adjustable. We have it programmed for different temps at different times of day. You can override it up or down at anytime.

I am not concerned about bacteria as I don't keep food directly on my counters. Spills are not harder to clean because they get "baked" on. Due to the granite pattern I find stuff everday on my granite that has been there who knows how long and everything wipes up easily.

We love it. If this granite could not be heated we would have done a wood top instead.

Sochi, you are in fact who inspired me to hunt for white quartzite. I saw your magnificent kitchen on this site and started scouting out available quartzite here in the Bay Area.

Sparklekitty, I love your suggestions. My first inclination was to go with a modern white linear tile (Oceanside Glass "Veil" blend), but DH thought it was too sterile.

I had a color consultant come over today and she had some brave new ideas. First is to use a small brick Walker Zanger combo of stone and irridescent glass. The walls would then be a neutral with bright mango cabinets (the stones in the tile have the occasional orangish highlight). The next suggestion was a Walker Zanger linear glass tile in their Creme Brulee color. The glass is their Chelsea Art Glass in shades of butterscotch and tan. The walls would be a burnt orange and the cabinets, white. I know it sounds bizarre, but it actually is quite striking.

Right now my thinking is to go with the first choice. (And yes I will post photos as soon as I figure out how to do that!) It has more of a "spa" like feel.

Thanks again!

So I ended up with various samples from five tile places AND the Grazia Rixi crackle tiles that The Tile Shop mailed to me. The crackle was super super subtle in them....almost not visible from a couple of feet away. I also had samples of the Solistone Mardi Gras Carrollton tiles sent to me (more modern than I wanted but pretty). I had thassos, calacatta in hex and subway and various other tiles.

At one point, I really liked Sonoma Tilemakers stellar tiles in mist. But they were $20-something a tile. Then I thought about doing Daltile Modern Dimensions (polished) in 4x8 in their light warm gray shade with this really neat mother of pearl mosaic that had brown and gray and ivory and white tones all in it. It was lovely but I didn't truly feel it. But I kept going back to these as well. And they were $8.95/sf. There's enough green in them so that they don't scream "blue" and enough gray in them so they're not pastel. And I love the uneven handmade look and the glossiness of them. And I love love love the crackle and the variation of the color finish within each tile and from tile to tile.

I feel silly that I had these from the start. Even my builder asked me why on earth I hesitated. I love the way they came out.

That ended up being wordy. Sorry! The brand is Settecento. I tried to find them but only found the ivory and white. The color I have is called gray/green (a bit misleading) and they're made in Italy.

That Blue Louise is amazing! Is it quartzite... million dollar question. Ok, maybe ten thousand dollar question. But Cloud Swift is on the right track.

If you totally trust your fabricator, they will know the difference the moment the saw hits the stone. Quartzite is even harder than granite (albeit not by much) and as Cloud said they will have to go slow and they will probably use up more blades in the process. Marble cuts easily.

If you aren't able to ask your fabricator, your next option, and frankly your best option anyway, is to do the glass-scratch test described above. Do you have a leftover piece from your project? Or can you get one from the stone yard? The glass-scratch is basically foolproof.

So try those things. I can't tell the difference between quartzite and marble from a photo. Much of the time I can't tell by looking at a polished slab either. You need a rough, broken edge to really see the character of the rock. (That said, my gut feeling on the Blue Louise is that it is a quartzite, but don't take my word for it!)

A few other things about telling quartzite from marble:

Some rocks have beautiful white veins running through them. Often those are calcite while the rest of the rock can be something else. So in those cases you could have one area of the rock that is soft and etchable while the rest is bulletproof. This can be true for any rock. So if possible, try the glass scratch on both the main body of the rock and also the veins.

There is also an acid test for calcite in rocks. But I doubt that any stone yard will let you dribble acid on their slabs! So you'd have to do this with a piece you bring home. But you can place a drop of white vinegar on the rock and see what happens. If little bubbles form, that is the vinegar dissolving the rock. Try that on a few places, especially white veins. If the first round of tests yield no bubbles, you are not in the clear yet. Try it all over again, but rough up the stone first. Take a nail, the tip of a knife blade, or some such, and make some nice scratches in the surface. (Note if you can't make a scratch in the surface, you probably don't have marble, as quartz and feldspar are harder than steel.) Leave the dusty stuff you've made while scratching. Put a few drops of acid on it and watch very closely. This is the test for dolomite. Calcite bubbles right away. Dolomite bubbles only if you scratch up the spot first. And any sealer could get in the way of this so try it on the edge if possible.

I really encourage any of you to try these tests, just for kicks. Even if you aren't worried about your stone, it is interesting to try the glass scratch and see how it does, just for your own knowledge. I am also imagining that we will start a trend of saavy shoppers who will bring glass bottles along while shopping and will be scratching and sniffing all around the slab yard....

There is an old thread where I noted the name of the product I used, I will see if I can find it.

Some people with a science background have claimed that if a quartzite etches it must be marble mis-identified as quartzite. I have no idea, but we have a few reports here on GW of quartzite etching, while many like me have had nothing at all. It is difficult to explain. Search for an old thread started by me called " what's up with quartzite", it is an interesting read.

Just found the old thread where I discuss the product used on my quartzite, here it is:

Hi again - I heard from my fabricator. They used an industrial silicone-based sealant from GranQuartz, called 413S. I'm not certain that it is available to individuals (as opposed to fabricators), but it might not hurt to ask your fabricator about it. I've pasted in a link to the product on the GranQuartz website. Here is a link that might be useful: Silicone Stone Sealant

Thanks Jdknyc!!

Michelle, our cabinets are the white that the cabinet company we went with had. It's a soft white though. When I went to BM to see about matching our trim it was close to Frostine from the Affinity line.

I'm looking at samples right now. We have a white Oceanside glass sample with slight iridescence in it but it appears kind of flat, even grouted and mounted on thinset. The light isn't catching it the way I'd hoped it would. I guess I should be glad as its the priciest option I have.

I also have a true iridescent from Sonoma Tilemakers from the Vihara line. It's in the Puka shade. It's lovely. I'm not sure about going this shimmery all throughout the entire kitchen though.

The other two I have are Sonoma Stellar Glaze in Aquarius (a somewhat light greyed blue green) and a handmade crackle tile in a deeper greyed blue green.

We have BM Grey Wisp in the room right off the kitchen (which is painted Revere Pewter). So going in the greyed blue green realm is a serious option. I wasn't expecting to like it but when we propped them up on the counter they worked so much better than any of the white tiles did.

The Puka plays off both of the blue/green tiles really nicely and comes in a hex pattern. I'm thinking if doing that as an inset over the range with one of the other tiles as the main backsplash tiles.

I like the Aquarius shade but kind of wish it had the crackle finish the deeper shade has. So I'm trying to decide!!

Did you select anything??

Word of caution about Caesarstone--check your slabs in person. One of mine had white thumbprint-sized blotches all over it which wasn't on the samples. One slab had only a few of these blotches, which we cut around. Caesarstone considers that acceptable. Yeah right. However, you can find the same pattern in other companies (found similar patterns in Chroma and Cambria).

- Having an extra fridge and/or freezer in the pantry is fabulous!
- If you can, have one lower section with a deep countertop you can use to set down grocery bags while putting things away.
- Room for a trash can, recycling bin (below the deep counter?) and broom (nook by fridge?) are great if you can swing it.
- Solid, wipeable shelves are better than the wire ones. (Small items can tip on or fall through the wire shelves.)
- Vertical space is just as important to conserve as horizontal space. Many of my shelves are designed for cans, so no more than two-cans tall. You'll need a few that are a bit taller, but don't make then all taller than you need, and make them adjustable!

- MOST IMPORTANTLY: Pantry shelves DO NOT need to be deep. Stuff gets lost in the back on deep shelves. My deepest shelves are 12", with many (most?) being only 9" deep. This depth is great, even for large items like Costco-sized bags of chips or boxes of cereal.

Shelves are painted Dove White, then polyurathened. Brackets are wood, stained a "walnut" (they look darker in the pics...but they *are* pretty dark...a little darker than I wanted, but I still like them) and also polyurathened.

Left side (pictured here) the shelves are 15" deep, all the way to the top.

From floor to first shelf is 18 inches
from first shelf to second, it is 15.5
next 5 shelves are 10" apart
top shelf goes to the ceiling. Ceilings are 8 ft.

Left side is exactly the same, except those shelves are 11.25 " deep. Top shelf, though, is 15"...since it is so high up, doesn't affect people when they walk in, so we made it deep to store large, rarely used items. Same amount of distance between the shelves going up.

Back shelves are 7.25" deep.
from the floor, 18" to the first shelf.

Then, we skipped a shelf going up, so they are 20" between, but we may add some more 7.25" shelves in between, depending on what we find we need. We may put a bulletin board on the wall back there.

For now, my "door" will be a beaded curtain...it is wood beads (bamboo) and I will have two tiebacks on either side of the doorway (inside the pantry, not visible) for when I am cooking and using the pantry a lot...or unloading groceries.

I also plan to get a pretty light fixture inside. Ceilings are too low for even a mini chandelier, but I want something really pretty in there...gotta go shop for it soon.

Anyway, I hope this helps some folks. I got so much help from this thread and the forum in general.

Here is a link that might be useful: finished WIP

I'm going to visit every stone yard within 100 miles of here, and if I find a beautiful madreperola, I'm there! It's one of the very few stones that can make me stray from what I'm supposed to be looking for - a leathered black granite (I know - that's not even close to MP or Torquay). Have you seen Pip's gorgeous kitchen? I'll link it below.

Here's a picture of a Christopher Peacock kitchen that might help:

The countertop is similar to yours, and the oak cabinets are similar to yours, and the gray cabinets are similar to your tile color, so I'd say you could make it look really nice. Just make sure you fill your glass-front cabinets with dishes that match your gray floor!

Here is a link that might be useful: Pip's kitchen

ArchitectMama - so I meant to ask YOU! Is Stone Source where you got your stone?

And to not totally hijack the thread - on the subject of warm whites. What about Dolce Vita Quartzite - it's beautiful!

The marble seam is at the cooktop but not in the center of it. It's about 3" from the cooktop's right edge.
No stain on the walnut... just Satin Waterlox (first 3 coats are original and last coat is satin)
The crystal knobs are by Emtek and are 1 1/4".

HTH : )
Fishies

Someone commented they couldn't find on Blanco's site, about not using plumber's putty. Being I installed ours, I was very cautious about how I installed it.

On Blanco's site, under "Customer service", the "installation FAQ", the one question is: What kind of sealant should be used when installing the basket strainers in a Silgranit II sink?

Answer: We recommend using silicone for the sealant and not plumbers putty.

That is exactly what I used.

Here is a link that might be useful: Silicone Stone Sealant

The rug was from Hautelook.com I want to do the room with white/cream chairs and turquoise accents with some orange. Dying to use these orange curtains from Zgallerie.

I just ordered them in the gray for the bathroom since they seem to look like the tile trellis tile. I'll "visualize" them in the orange once the gray ones arrive.

geomeg, that is the name of the catalyzed lacquer company's colors. If you google ML Campbell....you will see what I'm talking about. I am not sure about all the details. But I do believe a lot of cabinet people use this brand of catalyzed lacquer. They are not glazed.

lascatx--been in that lonnnng renovation cycle myself. I think it was a full 2 years to get the last kitchen actually finished. In fact there were a couple of details that were completed right before listing it. When friends heard "we" were building a whole house, their only comment was that they hoped someone was building it for us because according to their calculations, it would take us at least 11 years to get it built. LOL

I have seen it different looking slabs of it, some have a vertical veining too it.

Do you have a photo of the slab you are interested in. I really liked the super white too. The clincher for us besides the beauty is that they had a slab large enough for our entire kitchen, (plus master bath) so in the end it was cheaper than buying too of the super white, or other similar quartzites.

I think our project manager was a little dubious about it, but he talked about how great it was once it was in. He especially mentioned the quietness.

I hope to get higher resolution images soon but the attached photo shows how well it blends in with everything and is totally unobtrusive.

Pantry area, starting at the left end by the freezer:

Step stool cabinet, freezer, fridge, broom cabinet...all with cookbooks above. The walk-in pantry has my wheeled bins for grains and pet food. (I have another placed planned for pet food, so hopefully some day it will be out of the pantry) Also in the pantry: Grain mills, smaller containers of various grains, canned goods, extra of baking and other supplies, dry beans, rice, crockpot, garbage bags, baskets of potatoes, oranges, onions, garlic.

Cooking area:
Above microwave is microwave dishes...Like 2 qt Pyrex covered casserole dishes. In the upper section of that cabinet is a shelf with my extra oven racks, and another with extra party napkins, paper plates, etc that we don't need very often. In the base cabinet under the microwave is cooling racks, glass baking pans, and large broiler/roasting pans. I have 5 shelf spaces in that cabinet so things don't have to stack too much. I got so tired of having to nest everything just right and sort through to get the pan I wanted.

In the gray cabinets:
Upper to left of stove: spices
Over stove: hood vent pipe...Wasn't supposed to be there, but that's a long story
Upper to right of stove: Spices

Base to left of stove:
Drawer 1 (top): utensils like whisks, can openers, tongs, thermometers
Drawer 2: Pyrex measuring pitchers
Drawer 3: pot and pan lids

Under stove:
top drawer: stainless pots and colanders
bottom drawer: cast iron Dutch oven and skillets, non-stick and cast iron

right of stove:
Drawer 1: utensils like metal spatulas/pancake turners, cooking spoons, meat fork
Drawer 2: Wok and wok grate
Drawer 3: waffle irons

Wood cabinet to right of stove:
Upper: oils and vinegars, noodles, etc.
Lower: large stainless bowls, vacuum sealer, deep fryer, flip-over waffle iron

On counter: canisters with flour and sugar since the baking ingredients are in the baking area and occasionally I need just a bit when cooking at the stove. The other canisters hold cookies. :-)

Main sink wall
The shelf built into the wall has some 'display items' at the top and coffee and tea supplies, coffee grinder, and mugs in the rest. The coffee maker sits on the counter in front of it.

In the far left drawer bank:
Drawer 1: kitchen towels and dish rags
Drawer 2: Panini grill
Drawer 3: pasta maker and salad spinner (One day I should actually try out the pasta maker...A friend gave us their extra)

Then dishwasher, sink (cleaning supplies and dw detergent underneath), and the other dishwasher.

The far left base cabinets hold dishes...bowls (cereal and pasta sized), plates (dinner and salad/dessert), platters, and Tupperware sort of storage containers. (I think they're actually mostly Rubbermaid) The hutch above holds glassware, pitchers, and serving bowls.

Main sink side of island:
From right as facing the island from that side (nearest stove):
Trash and recycle pullout with knives above.
4 drawers:
1) vegetable peelers, graters, knife sharpeners
2) 2 mixing bowl sets
3 and 4 are yet to be determined for sure, because my dh just replaced a doored cabinet with the drawers that I thought would be more useful.
A very deep drawer/pullout that holds cutting boards and rolls of plastic wrap, foil, parchment, etc.

Baking side of island:
Prep sink
2 drawers that hold my bread mixer and bread pans
Shelves...also new, but I think I'll put baskets or boxes that will hold cake decorating supplies and cookie cutters, because they're in my way in the baking area

Baking/breakfast center wall:
From left...
Breakfast center
Upper: cereal, peanut butter, honey, crackers, chips
Lower:
Drawer 1: bread
Drawer 2: napkins, placemats
Drawer 3: water bottles

Fridge with cabinet above that holds vases and plastic pitchers, and a shelf for my extra fridge shelves.

Baking center with supplies like flour sugar, spices, dried fruit, flavorings, coconut, etc. etc in the uppers. Base cabinets have utensils in all the top drawers. A baking sheet rack in the doored cupboard, and in the big drawers:
Top: Food processor, chopper, handmixer, stand mixer parts
Bottom: cake, cheesecake, and pie pans

Oven with vitamins, medicines above, and storage of extra dishes above that. In the drawer under the oven are hot pads and my pizza stone.

I think that covers it and I hope it's right...I'm not going to read it over before posting, because it's taken me so long and my family wants dinner!! :-D

a

My water is good quality (used to be a beer made here based on the excellent water in the area), but I just don't like the taste so filtering out "bad" things wasn't an issue.

elfmom--Are your cabs factory finished? If so, I don't know that you could paint over them without sanding them down, which would be a shame. I would ask an experienced painter. We ordered our cabs unfinished and had a painter (awesome painter if anyone needs one in SF Bay Area on the peninsula) paint them. Spraying was much less expensive than brushing, but it did make as thick of a coat and we liked the idea that with the final brush area we could touch up without it being noticeable. That's part of the reason that we went with painted over the factory finish white that is "baked" on, and also we didn't like the look of the finishes our cab maker did and saw some in a home nearby that they made and it looked like the finish chipped easily. I guess if you order from the big companies with the factory finish it's much more durable than when you go with a custom cabinet maker in California...I guess they can't use the same chemicals to make it durable due to CA regulations. I have a friend that has the glaze. Her kitchen was one of my inspirations and it's gorgeous (I'll ask her if I can post some of the pictures I have of it). I think it looks great, and it hides the dirt! Everything shows on my cabs, but with the glaze you can get away with more!

mamabirrd--We like the Natura. It doesn't smell, which is great! We wanted to be as green as possible. The only place we didn't use it is on the cabinets because from everything I read on this site and talking to guy at the paint store, it sounded like Aura was a better bet for holding up to the beating cabinets get. A lot of people on the forum also like Fine Paints of Europe for cabinets, but that's $100 per can!

chinchette--The chairs at the desk (also the same ones at our dining table) are from Crate & Barrel. They are quite comfortable and once we get cushions will be even more so! I do have to say, they are not the most practical. A friends child was over recently and stood on a chair and little piece broken off the side of the seat. My husband glued it back on, but I can tell it's not going to last. Once we have cushions (C&B only has cream and black ones, and we want something in between) they will be more protected, which will be a good thing! Also, they will be tricky to clean if anything is ever spilled or if it gets dusty inside. The great thing is they are only $129! Here's the link: http://www.crateandbarrel.com/family.aspx?c=14229&f=26600
Our barstools were a great deal too and are extremely comfortable. $350 for two and Sturbridge Yankee Workshop.

For the chalkboard idea, I have to give credit to Sunset Magazine. I saw a picture a couple of years ago and tore it out. It's one of my favorite things. I often write a message near the top and then the kids decorated the bottom.

I know I still owe some people the tile name, and I'll try to get out there to take a look at it soon!

Because I intend to install mine at a corner with the faucet at an angle so it can be used from either the long or short side of the island, I'm leaning towards a round or square sink. Like this:

Blanco offers the Rondo, a 15.25" interior diameter round that requires a 21" cab for undermount installation and a 18" cab for drop-in installation. Interior dimensions seem like it would work but what about depth? It's only 6-5/8" deep. Undermounted with a 3cm counter, it would be 7-7/8" deep. Is that too shallow?

I also found a round sink from Franke, the Espirit, in stainless. It's interior diameter is 16 1/8", depth is 7 1/8". Required cab size is 21".

Franke also offers a round fire clay sink called Luna. It's interior diameter is 15 3/8", depth is 7 7/8".

Is there a minimum depth for a prep sink?

Hope you don't mind me tagging on to your thread, bacin0, but I figure you'd want to know this as well.

I can't tell you how much I appreciate the heavy drain basket. It's the easiest drain in the world to install. It doesn't have a mind of it's own and there is no fussing to get it to hold water. It's worth the extra cash to get these. We really missed them in our cottage rental a couple of weeks ago. It's an overlooked item that you use every day.