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RE: Am I the only one who really dislikes their Toto toilet? (Follow-Up #51)

posted by: jerry_murray on 12.09.2013 at 09:55 pm in Bathrooms Forum

TOTOs need direct venting. Working on a 1.6 unibody, I found a single vent through the roof in an adjacent toilet room, separate from the TOTO. The TOTO unit would not flush because it did not get the proper air flow. The water fills the bowl and stays there when the flush lever is activated. When I bailed the water from the bowl and got near the bottom, bubbles started flowing back into the bowl. Make sure you properly vent the TOTO or it will not work properly or not at all. An expensive toilet needing an expensive venting fix.

When called to "unclog" the TOTO, I firstly, plunged it, then removed the toilet to check for any obstructions. I poured 5 gals. of water down the outlet to make sure no clogs. I placed the TOTO outside on the driveway, then filled the bowl with water - it flushed properly. I filled the tank and activated the handle and it flushed properly. When I reinstalled it, it would not flush - the water stayed in the bowl. I decided to run a snake through the bowl hole and siphon but i found no obstructions. So, my conclusion is the toilet needs a vent connected to its own outlet. Since the only vent is 10 feet away, the TOTO does not have adequate air flow for the flush function.

This post was edited by jerry_murray on Tue, Dec 10, 13 at 2:29


clipped on: 03.07.2014 at 01:23 am    last updated on: 03.07.2014 at 01:23 am

RE: Am I the only one who really dislikes their Toto toilet? (Follow-Up #49)

posted by: lizb_1772 on 05.11.2012 at 09:12 am in Bathrooms Forum

Both our expensive Guinevere Totos clog, and DH and DD have managed to have overflow disasters. We do not use Charmin, and have adequate sewer lines, etc.

The handles on both toilets broke at about the same place and at about the same time, and it took multiple written and telephone attempts to get anyone from Toto customer service to reply. After months of aggravation, we were finally told of a defect in the mechanism of that model and were sent replacement parts. For the price of these things we felt like a recall notice should have gone out to all owners of this model rather than the owners having to dig the information from the company.

While I prefer the look and sitting comfort of the Toto, we will be replacing them with the American Standard Champion 4. We have one in our master and nothing seems to clog it.

Toto is a tremendous disappointment in function and customer service. We cannot recommend them at all. Our Totos will be going to the curb soon. If you are in Lake Norman, NC area, contact me if you want them!


clipped on: 03.07.2014 at 01:21 am    last updated on: 03.07.2014 at 01:21 am

RE: Am I the only one who really dislikes their Toto toilet? (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: ktmast on 05.31.2011 at 03:25 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I bought the American Standard Champion 4 about 3 years ago (it's top rated in Consumer Reports). It has NEVER clogged. A few months ago I bought a second one for another bathroom. Heavily used by guests and kids. It would be my first choice again.


clipped on: 03.07.2014 at 01:13 am    last updated on: 03.07.2014 at 01:13 am

RE: Finished Bathroom Reveal Thread (Follow-Up #44)

posted by: pipdog on 03.30.2013 at 12:43 am in Bathrooms Forum

I love seeing all of these beautiful bathrooms collected in one place. Here's my all white transitional master bath (it's Calacatta and Caesarstone, Duravit tub, Toto and Hansgrohe fixtures):
 photo 431005_277630745683594_1145509658_n.jpg
 photo Collage.jpg
 photo DSC_4899.jpg


clipped on: 03.03.2014 at 10:28 pm    last updated on: 03.03.2014 at 10:28 pm

RE: Finished Bathroom Reveal Thread (Follow-Up #41)

posted by: sochi on 03.25.2013 at 12:40 am in Bathrooms Forum

Gorgeous bathrooms everyone, what a wonderful thread. Here is my small interior master bathroom. Renovation was completed about 10 months ago.

Floor tiles: Cement Nickel by Antica
Wall tiles: Yakarta Blanco from Porcelanosa
Shower heads: Hansgrohe
Toilet: Toto (we reused the existing toilet)
Sink: Kohler
Faucet: Cifial
Vanity: live edge walnut
Sconces: Sonneman Teardrop
Shower Threshold: Caesarstone Raven
Wood floor in shower: Ipe decking






clipped on: 03.03.2014 at 10:26 pm    last updated on: 03.03.2014 at 10:26 pm

RE: Finished Bathroom Reveal Thread (Follow-Up #31)

posted by: olychick on 03.23.2013 at 12:58 am in Bathrooms Forum

I've posted these so many times, even I'm sick of them!

To post to the gallery, when you click on Baths, you'll see a star and next to it: Messages:

Then right below that, before you see all the threads listed, it says:

On-Topic Discussions [Switch to: Gallery]

Switch to Gallery and please post your pics there, too. They stay there longer for future bathroom planners!

c. Vanity and linen tower photo vanityviewfrominsideshower.jpg

a. Pocket door photo Pocketdoorandlinentower.jpg

. Sanijet and sparkly tile photo Sanijettubsparkletile.jpg

This post was edited by olychick on Sun, Mar 24, 13 at 3:31


clipped on: 03.03.2014 at 10:22 pm    last updated on: 03.03.2014 at 10:22 pm

RE: Finished Bathroom Reveal Thread (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: hobokenkitchen on 03.18.2013 at 08:00 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Here is our latest bath remodel - it doesn't have the fininshing touches yet, but this should give the idea:

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Tub: Victoria and Albert Toulouse.
Vanity: British Cane vanity from
Toilet: Toto Soiree.
Floor tile: Artistic Tile Exedra porcelain calcutta marble look a like.
Wall subways: Artistic Tile Pavarotti Pearl
Feature Tile: Danse Lucido Vetromarmi water jet tile also from Artistic Tile.


clipped on: 03.03.2014 at 10:11 pm    last updated on: 03.03.2014 at 10:11 pm

RE: What was your best / worst bathroom remodeling decision? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: Jackfre on 02.14.2014 at 10:29 am in Bathrooms Forum

Toto toilet with Washlet 300 seat.
12X30" Porcelanosa tile in shower, few joints means easier cleaning.
LED lights on dimmers
Panasonic fans
Victoria Albert Asia tub beneath two 3x4" windows. So nice in the winter to get in the tub and open the windows.
Tankless water heater to enjoy either long showers or baths...although with the drought there isn't much of that going on.
Marmoleum floor. We used it in both bathrooms. I don't miss the tile. Unless you heat it, tile is cold, cold, cold.
Soapstone vanity top. It has worked out very well and cleans up easily.


clipped on: 03.03.2014 at 12:37 pm    last updated on: 03.03.2014 at 12:37 pm

oops (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: mongoct on 07.03.2008 at 07:27 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Ooops, that was my wife's sink.

Here's my side of the bathroom:



clipped on: 03.03.2014 at 12:27 pm    last updated on: 03.03.2014 at 12:27 pm

RE: Finished bathroom! (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: stephanie_and_tim on 12.15.2011 at 04:26 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Thanks everyone! We are very pleased.

@ writersblock: We didn't use the faucets that came with the vanity. Our plumber recommended against installing them as the threads were not very good. We bought Grohe faucets instead.

Forgot to mention a little extra that we really like... we had the contractor put outlets in the medicine cabinets.


clipped on: 03.02.2014 at 09:40 am    last updated on: 03.02.2014 at 09:40 am

RE: Porcelanosa tile online??? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: attofarad on 04.29.2013 at 12:19 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We purchased tile through; we picked it up "will call" at Porcelanosa, DalTile, and Bedrosians. They can be a bit unresponsive at times, but it really did save quite a bit, even a bit cheaper than "contractor" price.


clipped on: 03.02.2014 at 09:38 am    last updated on: 03.02.2014 at 09:38 am

RE: Do I really need a steam shower? (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: woodinvirginia on 11.26.2013 at 07:26 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Me I have ALLERGIES, HAY FEVER, CONGESTION and SINUS Problems.. I AM 59 NOW BUT i was 55 when I had my home remodeled and was initially going to put a Jacuzzi 48 '' shower thingy in with a bench.
When my framer said let me build you a real shower..Something that 5 years from now you will be happy I put it in for you. So he put in a 5 ft by 6 ft by 7.5 ft framed in shower with a 3 ft bench. I followed the John Bridges forum [online] and bought a kerdi kit online from EBAY . The I helped direct my master carpenter into putting up cement board and then Kerdi.
Then got a plumber involved and finally then the tile contractor came in and did his thing as well. I got an appropriately sized Thermasol Steam Shower Unit from Craigslist.. believe it or not .. for only 200.00 That user was remodeling his bath and wanted the faster on model call Thermasol- PRO which is an instant on/always on model.

I found the older Steamer controls from Clearance sales at plumber supply stores on ebay/Internet. All IN I think I spent 2000.00 more then if I had just done a regular shower. that includes the cost of the 500.00 kerdi kit and floor.
Now fast forward to 5 years later.. that was the best 2000.00 I EVER spent too... no more SINUS HEADACHES... It is the perfect next step after being on the treadmill and bicycle exercise to wind down.
It only uses 2 gallons of water as opposed to our Jacuzzi which uses 67 gallons of water to take 1 bath..Meanwhile the least often used Jacuzzi cost 4500.00 then and is not used as often now. We got the extra thermasol control unit [outside the door] that allows us to cut the steam unit on 10 minutes before I get in it so it is at a temperature around 80 degrees upon my entrance. I have it on a 'cycle' that goes up to 100 degrees for 10 minutes and the unit cuts off in 30 minutes. [Enough for me...] had a tight fitting glass door 34 '' X 72'' and a 4inch vent glass above the door. [These door measurements are items your framer needs B4 building one.and whether it will have a vent]
Ours has the fan outside the vent door. We chose the PANASONIC fans that are almost commercial use.. They get the moisture out in 10 minutes when humidity is 50 percent or lower. Found the fan on EBAY for 200. We are happier with the steam shower then the 6 ft JACUZZI we purchased and installed at the same time. NO MOLD PROBLEMS EITHER...
Pre planning and careful reading of that John Bridges website is the information I got right here off of GARDEN WEB. i'd highly recommend you see what other DIY'S are doing and saving money doing it..


clipped on: 02.28.2014 at 11:12 pm    last updated on: 02.28.2014 at 11:12 pm

RE: Okay, tell me about Toto toilets (Follow-Up #67)

posted by: herring_maven on 01.27.2014 at 07:51 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Jeckyl1: "I am just now trying to make a decision on a new toilet. Any updated experiences or info anyone would like to add? I am looking at the TOTO ... Ultramax II (1.28gpf, Double Cyclome)) or the TOTO ... Drake (1.6gpf, G-Max) or the TOTO ... Drake II (1.28gpf, Double Cyclone) "

You may wish to add the Vespin II to your list, It is identical to the Drake II except that the Vespin II is skirted, which makes it easier to clean, and many think improves the appearance.


clipped on: 02.28.2014 at 10:12 pm    last updated on: 02.28.2014 at 10:13 pm

RE: What was your best bathroom remodeling decision? (Follow-Up #144)

posted by: just_julie on 04.30.2011 at 10:04 am in Bathrooms Forum

Installing a variety of lighting options, each on their own switch. Our electrician had a lot on input on this- lighting is 'art' to him. We used good Lutron equipment.. worth every (extra) penny!

there are 3 vanity lights on a dimmer, can light over the toilet, lit makeup mirror, a ceiling fixture, tub reading light on a dimmer, tiny LED lights throughout the bathroom and shower niche and 2 fantech dimmable halogens in the shower. We also put a dimmable motion sensor in the master closet so the light turns on as you're opening the pocket door.

Tied for first would be the bain ultra tub with lights.

2nd would be the beverage fridge. A close 3rd, the in-wall stereo/ipod/cd player with ceiling speakers.

Biggest regret is not putting in a heated floor. A friend kind of talked us out of it and we thought about it a lot this past winter. I'm sure I won't miss it in the heat of summer!


clipped on: 02.27.2014 at 08:12 pm    last updated on: 02.27.2014 at 08:12 pm

RE: What was your best bathroom remodeling decision? (Follow-Up #101)

posted by: sayde on 08.16.2008 at 08:09 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Our bath is not complete yet (nearly) but have some "happy" and "not so"

Happy: changed layout to move tub from side of room to the end under the window. Had long wanted to do this and was nearly talked out of it but we found a way to make it work and it is just as I had hoped!

We're using Suntouch floor Heating, Toto (Mercer) because of what I learned on this thread.

Keeping the palette simple -- white Johnson Minton Hollins subway tiles -- totally flat like the old ones were, and carrara floors, tub surround and washstand. There were many temptations to get fancy and I'm so glad I resisted. The room is spare and elegant.

Was nervous about ordering so many things from Restoration Hardware, online, site unseen, but the quality has been great. We got sconces, a marble topped washstand, faucets and fittings, and medicine chest. Basically lifted the "gramercy sink" setting right out of the catalog.

Most important -- did extensive planning -- made my own drawings of layout and details down to the number of rows and columns of tiles. Despite all this there were a couple of little glitches. You cannot do too much advance planning.

Biggest mistake -- hiring the contractor who had done projects around the house for thirty years. Roof, basement, studio, terrace and on and on. I don't know what happened but this job was a debacle. For one thing, he rushed through doing tile himself, did not dry lay, was not careful with spacing. We tore out tile, in disbelief and wound up terminating him. After we had paid him much too much and could not recover. We then hired really good people with an excellent tile guy and things are going well. The lesson is -- hire the best and check out the subs.


clipped on: 02.27.2014 at 07:39 pm    last updated on: 02.27.2014 at 07:39 pm

Best Bathroom Design Ideas_Vanity Mirror Defogger (Follow-Up #94)

posted by: bathroom_daddy on 06.05.2008 at 11:46 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I love to take long hot showers...and prefer to shave my face my zen vessel sink�but got tired of wiping and wiping the condensation from the mirror�so I installed a mirror defogger (heating element behind the vanity mirror)that comes on automatically with the vanity light switch. The walls can be dripping from condensation and the vanity mirror stays crystal clear. It is great for any bathroom vanity mirror especially for small bathrooms with poor ventilation it's a great small bathroom design idea. It's a piece of cake to put in and will set you back a measly $30. It�s a 30min installation.
Karl Eberhardt
aka Bathroom Daddy

Here is a link that might be useful: Bathroom Daddy


clipped on: 02.27.2014 at 07:03 pm    last updated on: 02.27.2014 at 07:04 pm

RE: What was your best bathroom remodeling decision? (Follow-Up #76)

posted by: hostagrams on 01.31.2008 at 09:52 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Great thread . . . thanks, everyone, for taking the time to respond! We built 6 years ago and are moving, so are going through it all again . . . these are the things I'll repeat.

Love my cabinet-heights counters

Toto Carlyles and washlet

Splurged on accent tile I adored . . . It was pricy per sheet but I only used 6 sheets and it absolutely made the bathroom. I'm devastated that I can't find it anywhere for my new house.

Walk in shower with rain-shower head plus moveable hand-held. We love it and it's a great place to wash a golden retriever!!

Storage shelves for towels, etc. in the entrance area of shower.

Plug for DH's razor inside the linen cabinet.


clipped on: 02.27.2014 at 06:52 pm    last updated on: 02.27.2014 at 06:52 pm

RE: What was your best bathroom remodeling decision? (Follow-Up #48)

posted by: sekhmet45 on 06.13.2007 at 02:16 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Best decisions:
---frameless shower with just brackets no bottom channel. Doesn't leak at all and was very expensive. But, worth every penny.
---Vermont Verde and Cararra Marble floor, polished with spectacular design. It always gets a WOW when anyone sees it. Green marble needs careful installation in a wet area.
---floor to ceiling Cararra Marble 12 x 12 tiles. It gives the room an extra tall feeling.

Worst decisions:
----Polished brass faucets, etc. They look dated already.
----Going with the 6' whirlpool tub the GC recommended. A smaller one would have been fine. He was a big man. Guess I should have considered why he likes a huge tub.
----not building niches into the shower wall. I have one shelf and a brass built-in soap dish, but a niche would have been better.

Bathrooms are so much fun to design!


clipped on: 02.27.2014 at 06:33 pm    last updated on: 02.27.2014 at 06:33 pm

RE: What was your best bathroom remodeling decision? (Follow-Up #45)

posted by: ashlander on 06.13.2007 at 03:14 am in Bathrooms Forum

I "did my homework." I read all your comments and included the following in our bathroom:
Panasonic fan w/heat on timer (so quiet)
Thermobalance valves, but they aren't set correctly (Please advise, DMLove or someone else)
Cultured granite with frameless shower door
36" height vanities with outlets in cabinets
Toto comfort height toilet
Grohe rain shower head (A-a-h, JOY!)
I/we owe our bathroom to all of you who posted above. Thank you, thank you, thank you!


clipped on: 02.27.2014 at 06:32 pm    last updated on: 02.27.2014 at 06:32 pm

RE: What was your best bathroom remodeling decision? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: jamesk on 02.19.2007 at 04:26 pm in Bathrooms Forum

My favourite thing is the Runtal Towel Warmers. My towels are always dry and warm!

Here is a link that might be useful: Runtal Radiator/Towel Warmers


clipped on: 02.27.2014 at 06:16 pm    last updated on: 02.27.2014 at 06:16 pm

RE: What was your best bathroom remodeling decision? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: warsher on 02.19.2007 at 11:04 am in Bathrooms Forum

First mistake "do'nt gut it". Gut it and second, use a vapor barrier under the cement board, do'nt use greenboard. The rusted nails will tell you where the vapor barrier and cement board prefer to go, I would just put the vapor lock everywhere, use half inch boards. You can use 6 mil plastic or roofing felt as barrier under boards, stapled. I like roofing, a little better insulation sound/thermal.
Cement board is a sponge, if that bothers you do what I did, use a cement board sealer around the shower/pullman area Depot has it. I used epoxy that I get cheap, 80 dollars for 1.5 gallon. That stops moisture before the board and not after.
Next stop tub. Cast iron equals quiet and thermal insulation it memorizes heat, (not drumlike with no echoes) Kohler Villager is cheapest; I say mistake. It is 14 inches tall so beware of a too little tub. I got the Toto 1525 at Express Pipe here in southern cal, 554 dollars. the tub iron is twice as thick as Kohlers I saw also, the glaze is smoother. 2 people can install it (the ground is the third person, roll the tub in end over end or just shuffle it in) 381 pounds but not heavy as you think.
Vanity, ebay has good glass/metal ones, will not absorb odors, lifetime product, under 500 with all hardware, faucets.
The toilet must do one thing foremost, flush. try the Toto Drake and if not the Ultramax will give you much more room. Express pipe or Homeclick. There are some horrible toilets out their beware, get a commercial one, Toto G max for instance.
Porcelain is king on tile, Ceramic is ok, check the grade (1-5) Marble is ok for a bathroom floor awesome visually. I would use 1/8 grout line porcelain on shower with sanded grout. Unsanded might shrink. Keep sponge dry, use caulk in tile corners, do not use premix wet mastic under tile, use powdered thinset with latex additive.
You might want to leave in the cieling when you gut.
You might want to get some kilz and paint the studs around the shower area if moisture problems were evident.


clipped on: 02.27.2014 at 06:14 pm    last updated on: 02.27.2014 at 06:14 pm

RE: Recommendation for frameless shower door company in DC/MD/VA (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: alina_1 on 02.25.2014 at 03:10 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I did not have any experience with glass door installation yet, but I am in the same area and in the same situation - planning a master bath reno.
I made some research and read lots of online reviews on the local glass companies. Narrowed it down to two companies:
River Glass Designs


Dulles Glass and Mirrors

I will shop around more when we will be ready to install, but these two companies sound very reliable.

As for the prices, Dulles Glass and Mirrors has an online tool to submit a request for a quote. You can choose the configuration, enter your dimensions, choose glass type and hardware type.


clipped on: 02.26.2014 at 11:08 pm    last updated on: 02.26.2014 at 11:08 pm

RE: Another backsplash post! (Follow-Up #81)

posted by: teachertile on 04.18.2013 at 09:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

We chose Laticrete epoxy grout because it is more resistant to staining, is easy to clean & already sealed. Installers don't like it because its more difficult to install. It dries quickly. Our tile guy wasn't thrilled with our choice, but he did an amazing job with it! It is more expensive, and some say its unnecessary in a kitchen backsplash, but we didn't want to take chances with a highly used kitchen.


clipped on: 05.21.2013 at 11:46 pm    last updated on: 05.21.2013 at 11:47 pm

RE: need knob to go with Princetonian pulls (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: karen44_2008 on 04.09.2010 at 08:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

I used Princetonians for all of my drawers but wanted a knob for my doors. My husband and I wanted something square that melded well with the Princetonian's lines so, after MUCH searching, we liked this one that I found at Home Depot.

Here is a link that might be useful: Amerock Blackrock Square Knob


clipped on: 05.15.2013 at 04:51 pm    last updated on: 05.15.2013 at 04:51 pm

RE: plan for cabinet pulls -- all the same length? opinions, plea (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: sally123 on 04.29.2010 at 12:39 am in Kitchens Forum

malhgold - my backsplash is from Waterworks. It's from the Cottage Collection called Cottage Running Bond Mosaic. The color is Devonshire Cream. They are glass tiles, sized 1-7/8"x7/8".

jessrae - my pulls are from Amerock and are from the Essential'Z collection. The product number is BP9362-G10 and they are 128 mm center-to-center.


clipped on: 05.14.2013 at 11:20 pm    last updated on: 05.14.2013 at 11:20 pm

RE: plan for cabinet pulls -- all the same length? opinions, plea (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: sally123 on 04.28.2010 at 07:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks, eastbaymom. The pulls are 8". The cabinet on the far left is 15". The hood 42". The next cabinet is 39" with 27" exposed, the rest continues on into the blind corner. I have a pot rack in that cabinet and it is 36" wide. The pans I use less frequently go back into the corner. Here it is:

The drawers under the cooktop are 36", the drawers on either side are 18". The paint is called Limestone (Dunn Edwards #6233).


clipped on: 05.14.2013 at 11:17 pm    last updated on: 05.14.2013 at 11:17 pm

RE: All pulls - or knobs and pulls. Size? WDYD and why? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: badgergal on 01.30.2012 at 04:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

For some more perspective the drawers on the left are 24 in. wide and the pulls are 13 inches. The middle drawers are 36 in. and the pulls are 19 inches. The drawers on the right are 18 in. with 10 inch pulls.


clipped on: 05.14.2013 at 11:01 pm    last updated on: 05.14.2013 at 11:02 pm

RE: What size pulls to use? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: plllog on 01.25.2010 at 03:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

There isn't a single rule, but a lot of different ones, plus you can create your own. So long as you have a rule that makes sense it'll look good.

Examples of rules:

  • All 7" pulls.
  • All pulls centered with 4" of drawer(door) open on either side.
  • All vertical pulls 3" and all horizontal pulls 12"
  • All pulls 12" except on drawers more than 24" wide, with two 6" pulls

The most important thing is making sure that your lazy susan door's pull doesn't bang into stuff or prevent the door from opening the whole way. Same on the L upper. If there's no good way to do it, a low profile single knob, or a groove for opening without hardware might be the best solution, letting one of your rules be "not including corner".

If you want to use the same pulls on everything, including the DW, I think the 8" or 12" pull will work well. The 8" would be better if you want two on the big drawers, and the 12" would work better if you want one centered there, but either should work either way. Yes, I think the 8" will go with everything.


clipped on: 05.14.2013 at 10:50 pm    last updated on: 05.14.2013 at 10:51 pm

RE: What size pulls to use? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: theanimala on 01.25.2010 at 03:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have similar pulls, all placed horizontally as well. We used pulls that were approximately 3/4 of the length it's corresponding door or drawer. Since we have lots of different door and drawer sizes we have several different size pulls. My personal opinion is that a larger pull gives a more modern look where a smaller pull gives a bit more of a traditional look.


clipped on: 05.14.2013 at 10:48 pm    last updated on: 05.14.2013 at 10:49 pm

RE: Placement of Cabinet Hardware?! (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: badgergal on 04.24.2012 at 09:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

sarapamela, since you have the bead board panel in your drawers I think it would look best if you put your pulls in the top rail portion of the drawers. Normally I am an all pull person but in your kitchen I really think that decorative or whimsical knobs on the uppers might look really nice. Of course there are a ton of possibilities for knobs. If you look hard enough you might even find those fish swimming towards each other.
On my drawers I used longer than normal pulls. My 18 inch drawers have 10 inch pulls. The 24 inch drawers have 13 inch pulls and my 36 inch drawers have 19 inch pulls. Using extra long pulls is a more contemporary look. I put my pulls on the upper rails of all the drawers, even the shallow ones.
Good luck with your hardware hunt.


clipped on: 05.14.2013 at 08:21 pm    last updated on: 05.14.2013 at 08:21 pm

RE: Upper Cabinet Pull Size (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: badgergal on 04.12.2012 at 11:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

Controlfreakecs: glad you like the pulls. I thought they were reasonably priced. I actually got them cheaper through a local hardware store that just sells door and cabinet hardware than any online source. The local store sold them at 30% off retail and there was no shipping and handling charge. Also some of the online places didn't have the bigger sizes. So you might want to check a local specialty hardware store if you have one near your home. The handles seem to be a very nice quality.
As far as sizes go, I actually used the 19 inch pull on my 36 inch drawers.
The 24 inch drawers have 12 inch pulls. I have 10 inch pulls on 17 inch drawers. I have some drawers that are only 13 inches wide and those have the 6 inch pulls.
What I was trying to do was keep various lengths all approximately the same proportion in relation to my drawer widths.
Her is one more picture that shows the 24 inch, 36 inch and 17 inch drawers:
Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos


clipped on: 05.14.2013 at 06:48 pm    last updated on: 05.14.2013 at 06:48 pm

RE: Another backsplash post! (Follow-Up #84)

posted by: msrose on 04.18.2013 at 10:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

Found an explanation for the paper on their website. I have a question about the second paragraph. Since the tiles are only attached by paper and you shouldn't get the paper wet, they're saying to cut the tiles individually. Wouldn't that be a tedious job to cut all those little tiles individually?

Please note that Vihara glass tiles are “PAPER FACED” for the ease of installation and for overall appearance.
Paper facing is used on Vihara glass because they are transparent or translucent, where mesh backing will
not work. Please be certain to mount Vihara glass tiles with the paper facing out, to be removed after
the mosaic has been seated into the thin-set.

• Vihara can be cut with the use of a high quality wet saw with a diamond blade designed for
cutting glass. Pieces should be cut individually to avoid saturating paper facing. To prevent rough
edges, glass tiles must be cut in an extremely slow manner.

This post was edited by msrose on Thu, Apr 18, 13 at 22:46


Puka ~ Silk : 1 x 4

Puka ~ Silk : 1 x 1

Annica ~ Iridescent : 1/2 x 1/2

Annica ~ Iridescent : 1/2 x 1 1/4

Annica ~ Iridescent : 1 x 4

Annica ~ Iridescent : 1 x 1

Annica ~ Silk : 1/2 x 1/2

Annica ~ Silk : 1/2 x 1 1/4

Annica ~ Silk : 1 x 4

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RE: Another backsplash post! (Follow-Up #39)

posted by: sanjuangirl on 04.12.2013 at 09:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

Loving the mini-brick onyx like pips. We know it looks beautiful with her granite and it surely would with yours too. A show stopper! Also love Sonoma tile vihara, I love it in puka iridescent. Your granite is gorgeous and quiet so you can "go for it" in your backsplash! That's my 2 cents worth........enjoy the process; you're on the right tract. The only thing that matters is what you love!


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RE: Faucet? Lets see them! post up yours! (Follow-Up #36)

posted by: pipdog on 05.12.2012 at 04:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

a2gemini, it's staggered white onyx. it's apparently out of stock from the local distributor that we bought it from (they manufacture it), but Ann Sacks has a similar onyx tile.


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RE: Finished Traditional Kitchen (lots of pics) (Follow-Up #76)

posted by: jm_seattle on 11.30.2011 at 12:01 am in Kitchens Forum

The flooring is stained white oak. Not sure on the source, but both floor contractors we had in to bid on it said the parquet pattern calls for such small pieces that it's easy to get. We probably wouldn't have chosen it for the kitchen (we did simply because it was in the rest of the house), but are pleased with the result.

A link to our original lighting plan is below. As you'll see, it called for one can light, but we decided to live without that and I'm very glad we did. We've got standard CFL bulbs in all the fixtures, and they are plenty adequate in terms of light. In the 4 main high ceiling fixtures I think we have 75W or 100W equivalents, but they are all we use for most activities in the kitchen. Washing dishes is the big exception as I almost always use the dedicated lights there. The cooktop is another exception as I often will turn on the lights in the hood. But if I turn on the island lights or the nook light or the chalkboard lights, then I often turn off the 4 general lights.

That's not to say I wouldn't put in the different task lights- I definitely would as it just feels right to have light directly above you when you're going to be somewhere a long time.

The undercabinet lights are the only ones I sometimes question. It can be nice to have them, but something doesn't feel quite right about them and they don't quite fit with the rest of the kitchen and the rest of the lighting. There are probably more dedicated posts on this, but they are LED and incredibly bright and we also may not have bought the best spectrum? The spectrum is too white like CFL. But we buy the CFL bulbs that are wrapped in a glass bulb (for the look of incandescents) and that must give them a slightly different hue. The LED lights are raw and they are honestly either too much light or too white of light (not exactly sure which), so I almost never use them except for deep cleaning or long cooking projects.

One thing you won't see on the plan which turns out to be incredibly important is the distance from the counter/table/island/etc at which the lights hang down (from, in our case, a 9 1/2 foot ceiling). Ours hang about as low as we could get away without having them in the line of sight. If you're still interested (I know you posted a long time ago), let me know and I can measure that distance for you for each one.

BTW, my apologies for the delayed response- didn't see there were new questions on this thread. Folks can feel free to send me an email through the "Send an email" link on my page, too, if I'm unresponsive :)

Here is a link that might be useful: Kitchen Lighting Plan


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RE: How do you store a LARGE collection of spices? (Follow-Up #71)

posted by: imrainey on 03.23.2008 at 08:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

BTW, when freshness and using spices up in a reasonable amount of time is an issue there are many spice blends you can do yourself so you don't have to store every possible combination. Make as much or as little as you want. Most of these recipes fill a 4oz. spice jar.

Mixing them up is a wonderful sensory experience.

Here are a few that I do myself:

Apple Pie Blend
cup (or 24 parts) cinnamon
1 tablespoon (or 6 parts) allspice
2 teaspoon (or 4 parts) nutmeg
teaspoon (or 1 part) cardamom, optional

Pumpkin Pie Blend
cup (or 24 parts) cinnamon
2 tablespoon (or 12 parts) ginger
2 teaspoon (or 4 parts) ground cloves
1 teaspoon (or 2 parts) nutmeg
teaspoon (or 1 part) cardamom, optional

Curry Blend
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) cayenne
cup (or 8 parts) granulated garlic
cup (or 12 parts) paprika
cup (or 4 parts) turmeric
1 cup (or 24 parts) curry powder

Mexican Rub for Pork
1 teaspoon granulated garlic
1 teaspoon cumin
teaspoon (or 8 parts) epizote
teaspoon (or 8 parts) kosher salt
teaspoon (or 4 parts) freshly ground black pepper
teaspoon (or 4 parts) ground cloves
⅛ teaspoon (or 2 parts) oregano
1 pinch (or 1 part) cinnamon

Emeril's "Essence"
2 tablespoon paprika
2 tablespoon (or 2 parts) salt
2 tablespoon (or 2 parts) garlic powder
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) black pepper
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) onion powder
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) cayenne
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) dried oregano
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) dried thyme

Combine all ingredients thoroughly and store in an airtight jar or container.


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RE: How do you store a LARGE collection of spices? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: gizmonike on 02.10.2008 at 09:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

I copied lascatx's drawer, and love it! I'm using the bigger (wider) 4 oz jars. If you put Cushy Cupboard liner in the drawer, you won't need dividers to make the jars stay put.


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RE: Are white quartz countertops a fad? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: noellabelle on 01.24.2011 at 12:18 pm in Kitchens Forum



I got valley white granite a few weeks ago, and I love the lightness and soft movement in it.


Slanted corner cabinet
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RE: Help me find coordinating quartz countertop please! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: MarinaGal on 11.19.2012 at 02:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well, I just spent hours looking at Cambria, Caesarstone and Silestone samples. I think Cambria Torquay looks great on a large sample piece in case you haven't seen a larger sample yet - until today I had only seen photos on line and a small sample. It is on the cool side, though. Cambria Newport is warmer but has only a very subtle pattern.

One of your best bets in the Caesarstone line would be Misty Carrera - a friend of mine has it and I love the color, but sometimes I look at it and think the patterning is a little off. I think you might also look at Caesarstone Pebble which like the Misty Carrera comes polished and honed. Although it's gray, it's a warm gray and it looks fabulous with off white cabinets and with dark wood.

In the Silestone line you might look at Vortium. I liked the smaller sample of it a lot -but the larger piece not as much.....


clipped on: 01.27.2013 at 06:05 pm    last updated on: 01.27.2013 at 06:05 pm

My "Hot" island

posted by: debrak_2008 on 01.01.2013 at 12:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is not a kitchen reveal but a basic 101 on heating your island granite.

I will get into why at the end.

We got the idea from Fine Home building magazine. It's basically like installing electric underfloor heating. Uses the same elements.

Built a base of 3/4" plywood. Over that a layer of metal bars and plywood, 1/4". Then a 1 1/2" decorative flexible strip was put around this base. Then heating elements wires were laid and then covered with thinset up to the edge of the trim. The granite was laid over this.

Here are some photos.

This is the base under construction.

Base in place.

Heating element.

Outlets and thermostat.


Could not get the thermostat in black.


DH tells me that Thermosoft has a new product that would have made this even easier.

Also note, our base had to be designed to support the granite. Talk to your granite fabricator/installer to see what support you would need for the granite and the heating element.

We plan to sit alot at our island and eat some meals. We find unheated granite too cold in the winter for comfort. The heat is completely adjustable. We have it programmed for different temps at different times of day. You can override it up or down at anytime.

I am not concerned about bacteria as I don't keep food directly on my counters. Spills are not harder to clean because they get "baked" on. Due to the granite pattern I find stuff everday on my granite that has been there who knows how long and everything wipes up easily.

We love it. If this granite could not be heated we would have done a wood top instead.


clipped on: 01.25.2013 at 10:33 pm    last updated on: 01.25.2013 at 10:33 pm

RE: Almost Finished...lots of pics (Follow-Up #61)

posted by: michelle16 on 09.09.2012 at 09:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

Spice draw


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RE: What backsplash to go with Opal White Quartzite???? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: sfmomoxo on 07.22.2010 at 11:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks so much.

Sochi, you are in fact who inspired me to hunt for white quartzite. I saw your magnificent kitchen on this site and started scouting out available quartzite here in the Bay Area.

Sparklekitty, I love your suggestions. My first inclination was to go with a modern white linear tile (Oceanside Glass "Veil" blend), but DH thought it was too sterile.

I had a color consultant come over today and she had some brave new ideas. First is to use a small brick Walker Zanger combo of stone and irridescent glass. The walls would then be a neutral with bright mango cabinets (the stones in the tile have the occasional orangish highlight). The next suggestion was a Walker Zanger linear glass tile in their Creme Brulee color. The glass is their Chelsea Art Glass in shades of butterscotch and tan. The walls would be a burnt orange and the cabinets, white. I know it sounds bizarre, but it actually is quite striking.

Right now my thinking is to go with the first choice. (And yes I will post photos as soon as I figure out how to do that!) It has more of a "spa" like feel.

Thanks again!


clipped on: 01.18.2013 at 01:59 pm    last updated on: 01.18.2013 at 02:00 pm

RE: White quartzite owners: Please show your BS and paint color (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: babs711 on 06.06.2012 at 01:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks guys! I agonized over the backsplash but never felt like the lighting was quite right in photos to post here about it. The funny thing is that I found these first. Right after I found our WM for the island then the perimeters, I saw the tile at the fabricator's. I took samples of it along with white and some carrara. The carrara was too cool for the wm and the white was too stark. But I was too nervous to commit to the blue/green at that point. I wanted something beautiful but nothing that would take away from the WM either.

So I ended up with various samples from five tile places AND the Grazia Rixi crackle tiles that The Tile Shop mailed to me. The crackle was super super subtle in them....almost not visible from a couple of feet away. I also had samples of the Solistone Mardi Gras Carrollton tiles sent to me (more modern than I wanted but pretty). I had thassos, calacatta in hex and subway and various other tiles.

At one point, I really liked Sonoma Tilemakers stellar tiles in mist. But they were $20-something a tile. Then I thought about doing Daltile Modern Dimensions (polished) in 4x8 in their light warm gray shade with this really neat mother of pearl mosaic that had brown and gray and ivory and white tones all in it. It was lovely but I didn't truly feel it. But I kept going back to these as well. And they were $8.95/sf. There's enough green in them so that they don't scream "blue" and enough gray in them so they're not pastel. And I love the uneven handmade look and the glossiness of them. And I love love love the crackle and the variation of the color finish within each tile and from tile to tile.

I feel silly that I had these from the start. Even my builder asked me why on earth I hesitated. I love the way they came out.

That ended up being wordy. Sorry! The brand is Settecento. I tried to find them but only found the ivory and white. The color I have is called gray/green (a bit misleading) and they're made in Italy.


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RE: The lowdown on Super White (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: karin_mt on 10.28.2012 at 04:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

Dr. Beanie,

That Blue Louise is amazing! Is it quartzite... million dollar question. Ok, maybe ten thousand dollar question. But Cloud Swift is on the right track.

If you totally trust your fabricator, they will know the difference the moment the saw hits the stone. Quartzite is even harder than granite (albeit not by much) and as Cloud said they will have to go slow and they will probably use up more blades in the process. Marble cuts easily.

If you aren't able to ask your fabricator, your next option, and frankly your best option anyway, is to do the glass-scratch test described above. Do you have a leftover piece from your project? Or can you get one from the stone yard? The glass-scratch is basically foolproof.

So try those things. I can't tell the difference between quartzite and marble from a photo. Much of the time I can't tell by looking at a polished slab either. You need a rough, broken edge to really see the character of the rock. (That said, my gut feeling on the Blue Louise is that it is a quartzite, but don't take my word for it!)

A few other things about telling quartzite from marble:

Some rocks have beautiful white veins running through them. Often those are calcite while the rest of the rock can be something else. So in those cases you could have one area of the rock that is soft and etchable while the rest is bulletproof. This can be true for any rock. So if possible, try the glass scratch on both the main body of the rock and also the veins.

There is also an acid test for calcite in rocks. But I doubt that any stone yard will let you dribble acid on their slabs! So you'd have to do this with a piece you bring home. But you can place a drop of white vinegar on the rock and see what happens. If little bubbles form, that is the vinegar dissolving the rock. Try that on a few places, especially white veins. If the first round of tests yield no bubbles, you are not in the clear yet. Try it all over again, but rough up the stone first. Take a nail, the tip of a knife blade, or some such, and make some nice scratches in the surface. (Note if you can't make a scratch in the surface, you probably don't have marble, as quartz and feldspar are harder than steel.) Leave the dusty stuff you've made while scratching. Put a few drops of acid on it and watch very closely. This is the test for dolomite. Calcite bubbles right away. Dolomite bubbles only if you scratch up the spot first. And any sealer could get in the way of this so try it on the edge if possible.

I really encourage any of you to try these tests, just for kicks. Even if you aren't worried about your stone, it is interesting to try the glass scratch and see how it does, just for your own knowledge. I am also imagining that we will start a trend of saavy shoppers who will bring glass bottles along while shopping and will be scratching and sniffing all around the slab yard....


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RE: Durability of Princess White Quartzite (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: sochi on 08.27.2012 at 11:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

Elee325, my quartzite is Luce di Luna or quartzite Bianca, it has a strong linear pattern to it. It is from Brazil, as are most quartzites that have arrived on the market lately I think. I've been using mine for over two years now, no etching or staining at all. It is sealed with a silicone based product. The thread I referred to earlier was actually an email exchange. He found that his quartzite was darkening from water, he didn't report etching, my mistake. His counter was originally sealed with a water based product. After I told him what mine was sealed with he switched to a silicone product and had no further issues with his counter.

There is an old thread where I noted the name of the product I used, I will see if I can find it.

Some people with a science background have claimed that if a quartzite etches it must be marble mis-identified as quartzite. I have no idea, but we have a few reports here on GW of quartzite etching, while many like me have had nothing at all. It is difficult to explain. Search for an old thread started by me called " what's up with quartzite", it is an interesting read.

Just found the old thread where I discuss the product used on my quartzite, here it is:

Hi again - I heard from my fabricator. They used an industrial silicone-based sealant from GranQuartz, called 413S. I'm not certain that it is available to individuals (as opposed to fabricators), but it might not hurt to ask your fabricator about it. I've pasted in a link to the product on the GranQuartz website. Here is a link that might be useful: Silicone Stone Sealant


clipped on: 01.17.2013 at 05:13 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2013 at 05:13 pm

RE: White Quartzite is in (photos)! need help w/ backsplash (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: babs711 on 05.08.2012 at 09:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

I also have eased edges.

Thanks Jdknyc!!

Michelle, our cabinets are the white that the cabinet company we went with had. It's a soft white though. When I went to BM to see about matching our trim it was close to Frostine from the Affinity line.

I'm looking at samples right now. We have a white Oceanside glass sample with slight iridescence in it but it appears kind of flat, even grouted and mounted on thinset. The light isn't catching it the way I'd hoped it would. I guess I should be glad as its the priciest option I have.

I also have a true iridescent from Sonoma Tilemakers from the Vihara line. It's in the Puka shade. It's lovely. I'm not sure about going this shimmery all throughout the entire kitchen though.

The other two I have are Sonoma Stellar Glaze in Aquarius (a somewhat light greyed blue green) and a handmade crackle tile in a deeper greyed blue green.

We have BM Grey Wisp in the room right off the kitchen (which is painted Revere Pewter). So going in the greyed blue green realm is a serious option. I wasn't expecting to like it but when we propped them up on the counter they worked so much better than any of the white tiles did.

The Puka plays off both of the blue/green tiles really nicely and comes in a hex pattern. I'm thinking if doing that as an inset over the range with one of the other tiles as the main backsplash tiles.

I like the Aquarius shade but kind of wish it had the crackle finish the deeper shade has. So I'm trying to decide!!

Did you select anything??


clipped on: 01.17.2013 at 04:39 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2013 at 04:39 pm

RE: BM Mascarpone cabinets with white quartz? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: may_flowers on 10.02.2012 at 09:56 am in Kitchens Forum

Caesarstone Buttermilk works well with Mascarpone. It's kind of a greige, and Mascarpone and other whites with a touch of yellow brighten it up. I used it with cherry cabs but the fabricator was doing several white kitchens with Buttermilk. It will add some interest to all the whiteness you have planned and will allow you to do a white backsplash without it getting monotonous. It's nice to have the countertop relate to the floor too, and I don't suppose you're doing a white floor.

Word of caution about Caesarstone--check your slabs in person. One of mine had white thumbprint-sized blotches all over it which wasn't on the samples. One slab had only a few of these blotches, which we cut around. Caesarstone considers that acceptable. Yeah right. However, you can find the same pattern in other companies (found similar patterns in Chroma and Cambria).


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RE: Best Size for a Mudroom, Laundry Room, Pantry?? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: sweeby on 03.20.2012 at 05:52 pm in Building a Home Forum

My pantry feedback --

- Having an extra fridge and/or freezer in the pantry is fabulous!
- If you can, have one lower section with a deep countertop you can use to set down grocery bags while putting things away.
- Room for a trash can, recycling bin (below the deep counter?) and broom (nook by fridge?) are great if you can swing it.
- Solid, wipeable shelves are better than the wire ones. (Small items can tip on or fall through the wire shelves.)
- Vertical space is just as important to conserve as horizontal space. Many of my shelves are designed for cans, so no more than two-cans tall. You'll need a few that are a bit taller, but don't make then all taller than you need, and make them adjustable!

- MOST IMPORTANTLY: Pantry shelves DO NOT need to be deep. Stuff gets lost in the back on deep shelves. My deepest shelves are 12", with many (most?) being only 9" deep. This depth is great, even for large items like Costco-sized bags of chips or boxes of cereal.


clipped on: 01.15.2013 at 04:10 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2013 at 04:10 pm

RE: Pantry photos/ pics of pantries (Follow-Up #41)

posted by: dirtymartini on 04.11.2010 at 10:50 am in Kitchens Forum

Here's mine! Just finished last night.

Shelves are painted Dove White, then polyurathened. Brackets are wood, stained a "walnut" (they look darker in the pics...but they *are* pretty dark...a little darker than I wanted, but I still like them) and also polyurathened.

Left side (pictured here) the shelves are 15" deep, all the way to the top.

From floor to first shelf is 18 inches
from first shelf to second, it is 15.5
next 5 shelves are 10" apart
top shelf goes to the ceiling. Ceilings are 8 ft.

Left side is exactly the same, except those shelves are 11.25 " deep. Top shelf, though, is 15"...since it is so high up, doesn't affect people when they walk in, so we made it deep to store large, rarely used items. Same amount of distance between the shelves going up.

Back shelves are 7.25" deep.
from the floor, 18" to the first shelf.

Then, we skipped a shelf going up, so they are 20" between, but we may add some more 7.25" shelves in between, depending on what we find we need. We may put a bulletin board on the wall back there.

For now, my "door" will be a beaded is wood beads (bamboo) and I will have two tiebacks on either side of the doorway (inside the pantry, not visible) for when I am cooking and using the pantry a lot...or unloading groceries.

I also plan to get a pretty light fixture inside. Ceilings are too low for even a mini chandelier, but I want something really pretty in there...gotta go shop for it soon.

Anyway, I hope this helps some folks. I got so much help from this thread and the forum in general.

Here is a link that might be useful: finished WIP


clipped on: 01.15.2013 at 02:21 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2013 at 02:21 pm

RE: Pantry photos/ pics of pantries (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: rhome410 on 04.15.2009 at 02:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

Mari, My back shelves are about 16" deep and the side ones are 12". I have 19" between the floor and my bottom shelf...just the right size to roll in the wheeled bins that hold wheat, beans, and pet food.


clipped on: 01.15.2013 at 02:09 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2013 at 02:09 pm

RE: pull-out pantry vs individual slide out (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: morton5 on 12.21.2008 at 07:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have a 15"-wide pullout in my prep area and love it. Mine is kind of a hybrid, though. The top and bottom drawers are attached to the door, but other interior drawers are pulled out individually. Two advantages that I can think of to this set up are (1) the pullout isn't so heavy, and (2) I can position the other interior drawers at whatever height works best for me. The cabinet is Ikea, and the interior drawers are those European metabox drawers. I can see a lot of what is in each interior drawer before I pull it out.


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RE: Need help with last minute counter decision (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: mpagmom on 11.20.2011 at 01:25 am in Kitchens Forum

I have a big sample of Torquay sitting in my dining room, and every time I pass it I think, "Why don't I just pick it and get it over with?" But I totally understand your fake stone issue.

I'm going to visit every stone yard within 100 miles of here, and if I find a beautiful madreperola, I'm there! It's one of the very few stones that can make me stray from what I'm supposed to be looking for - a leathered black granite (I know - that's not even close to MP or Torquay). Have you seen Pip's gorgeous kitchen? I'll link it below.

Here's a picture of a Christopher Peacock kitchen that might help:

The countertop is similar to yours, and the oak cabinets are similar to yours, and the gray cabinets are similar to your tile color, so I'd say you could make it look really nice. Just make sure you fill your glass-front cabinets with dishes that match your gray floor!

Here is a link that might be useful: Pip's kitchen


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RE: Is there a warm, white granite/quarzite? (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: KathyNY76 on 10.23.2012 at 02:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

localeater - Ah, thank you! I was confusing your post with ArchitectMama. I'm on the Hudson side, Briarcliff/Ossining - so a drive to NJ is easy. But I'm also far enough north that I can get to 84 pretty easy as well. When it comes to finding the perfect stone, I'll make the trek! :) But thanks for the tips!

ArchitectMama - so I meant to ask YOU! Is Stone Source where you got your stone?

And to not totally hijack the thread - on the subject of warm whites. What about Dolce Vita Quartzite - it's beautiful!


Dolce Vita Quartzite
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RE: Is there a warm, white granite/quarzite? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: camphappy on 10.22.2012 at 01:59 am in Kitchens Forum

We are just finishing up our kitchen but so far we love our Taj Mahal. Like you, I loved the marble but I didn't think I could handle the etching. I also wanted something warm in color since my home has a lot of wood. It is similar to Madre Perla but I think with a little more browns. It totally depends on the slab, however, so you need to look around. Ours was mid range to upper mid range for price.


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RE: Is there a warm, white granite/quarzite? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: pipdog on 10.22.2012 at 12:02 am in Kitchens Forum

Madre Perla has a warm tones mixed with gray and taupe. Some slabs even have some orange/rust in them. The best thing about MP is that it is totally bulletproof and in 2 years we have no etching or staining. We love it!



Madreperola with onyx staggered backsplash tiles
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RE: Walnut Tops AND Danby Marble in Today!!! (Follow-Up #119)

posted by: 2LittleFishies on 12.16.2012 at 02:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

huango- You saw the most recent posts. I didn't post details yet.

The marble seam is at the cooktop but not in the center of it. It's about 3" from the cooktop's right edge.
No stain on the walnut... just Satin Waterlox (first 3 coats are original and last coat is satin)
The crystal knobs are by Emtek and are 1 1/4".

HTH : )


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RE: Would you buy your Silgranit sink again? (Follow-Up #34)

posted by: Roof35 on 01.11.2013 at 02:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

I like ours, as well as my wife likes it.

Someone commented they couldn't find on Blanco's site, about not using plumber's putty. Being I installed ours, I was very cautious about how I installed it.

On Blanco's site, under "Customer service", the "installation FAQ", the one question is: What kind of sealant should be used when installing the basket strainers in a Silgranit II sink?

Answer: We recommend using silicone for the sealant and not plumbers putty.

That is exactly what I used.


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RE: Would you buy your Silgranit sink again? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: grlwprls on 01.10.2013 at 10:41 am in Kitchens Forum

But make sure they install the drain with silicone NOT putty. Putty will stain the sink from the oil base of the putty. Make sure your plumber knows this...but be nice (and gentle). Members have had plumbers leave in a huff when this was mentioned to them.


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RE: Kohler Stages 33 Sink in Island Question (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: muskokascp on 01.11.2013 at 11:03 am in Kitchens Forum

It's a prep sink = heavy worker in the kitchen. You will absolutely need and want more counter space beside it to be able to prep properly. I have the 33" stages in my island with about 6" on the side that faces the fridge (this is nice because there is just enough room to plop things from the Rf onto the island) and the rest of the long side of the island on the other. I have a large island (10'4") and believe me, during prep time stuff gets spread out beside the sink!


clipped on: 01.11.2013 at 04:35 pm    last updated on: 01.11.2013 at 04:35 pm

RE: Sochi--Luce di Luna sealer? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: flseadog on 06.19.2010 at 11:11 am in Kitchens Forum

Belle phoebe, I hope your problem has been solved. The fabricator we used said they used Stone Care International products in their shop. This seems to keep everything from staining except oil that sits for a few hours. We did have another tile and stone installation company here yesterday to do some work and they said they use nothing but the Miracle 511 products. Of the 3 subs we used for tile and stone when we were doing our new build, they did the best most meticulous work so I tend to put faith in what they say. I asked them about your problem and they said if you try the 511 you should wipe it on sparingly and to use a soft terry or microfiber towel to wipe off any excess immediately. HTH.


clipped on: 01.07.2013 at 01:21 pm    last updated on: 01.07.2013 at 01:22 pm

RE: Sochi--Luce di Luna sealer? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: sochi on 06.11.2010 at 10:51 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi again - I heard from my fabricator. They used an industrial silicone-based sealant from GranQuartz, called 413S. I'm not certain that it is available to individuals (as opposed to fabricators), but it might not hurt to ask your fabricator about it. I've pasted in a link to the product on the GranQuartz website.

Here is a link that might be useful: Silicone Stone Sealant


clipped on: 01.07.2013 at 01:19 pm    last updated on: 01.07.2013 at 01:19 pm

RE: Beekeeperswife (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: beekeeperswife on 06.29.2012 at 02:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks again. You all are so sweet.

The rug was from I want to do the room with white/cream chairs and turquoise accents with some orange. Dying to use these orange curtains from Zgallerie.

I just ordered them in the gray for the bathroom since they seem to look like the tile trellis tile. I'll "visualize" them in the orange once the gray ones arrive.

geomeg, that is the name of the catalyzed lacquer company's colors. If you google ML will see what I'm talking about. I am not sure about all the details. But I do believe a lot of cabinet people use this brand of catalyzed lacquer. They are not glazed.

lascatx--been in that lonnnng renovation cycle myself. I think it was a full 2 years to get the last kitchen actually finished. In fact there were a couple of details that were completed right before listing it. When friends heard "we" were building a whole house, their only comment was that they hoped someone was building it for us because according to their calculations, it would take us at least 11 years to get it built. LOL


clipped on: 01.07.2013 at 09:46 am    last updated on: 01.07.2013 at 09:46 am

RE: Taj Mahal Quartzite (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ratrem on 04.29.2012 at 08:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is our huge slab that we are installing. I have not seen any installed at all as it is a newer quartzite (or under a new name), but it is flying out of the local warehouses and they raised the price again b/c of this (fortunately after we bought it) In person it has much more depth and is very pretty IMO:


I have seen it different looking slabs of it, some have a vertical veining too it.

Do you have a photo of the slab you are interested in. I really liked the super white too. The clincher for us besides the beauty is that they had a slab large enough for our entire kitchen, (plus master bath) so in the end it was cheaper than buying too of the super white, or other similar quartzites.


clipped on: 01.06.2013 at 09:15 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2013 at 09:15 pm

Update RE: ''Plasticky'' Silgranit? (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: drbeanie2000 on 11.01.2012 at 12:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

So I went ahead and got the Super Single with offset drain in Anthracite. When I first saw it out of the box, I thought - Seriously? When it went in, though, no plasticky look or feel. It feels incredibly sturdy. It looks fantastic with our leathered Cambrian Black countertops in that we barely notice it is there. There might be some water spots on the sides every once in a while, but they are not white, they're not that noticeable. I just wipe them off with a microfiber cloth every night.

I think our project manager was a little dubious about it, but he talked about how great it was once it was in. He especially mentioned the quietness.

I hope to get higher resolution images soon but the attached photo shows how well it blends in with everything and is totally unobtrusive.


clipped on: 01.06.2013 at 07:47 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2013 at 07:47 pm

RE: pullouts (Follow-Up #47)

posted by: Shareher on 07.17.2012 at 07:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

And here is a picture of the pullouts on either side of the range. The first has taller shelves for oil and vinegar.


clipped on: 01.06.2013 at 11:46 am    last updated on: 01.06.2013 at 11:47 am

RE: Prep sink placement in island - where is yours? (Follow-Up #36)

posted by: rhome410 on 08.16.2010 at 09:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

Do you mean what I store in each area? I'll try...If it's
not what you wanted/what you were asking for, let me know and I'll try again.

Pantry area, starting at the left end by the freezer:

Step stool cabinet, freezer, fridge, broom cabinet...all with cookbooks above. The walk-in pantry has my wheeled bins for grains and pet food. (I have another placed planned for pet food, so hopefully some day it will be out of the pantry) Also in the pantry: Grain mills, smaller containers of various grains, canned goods, extra of baking and other supplies, dry beans, rice, crockpot, garbage bags, baskets of potatoes, oranges, onions, garlic.

Cooking area:
Above microwave is microwave dishes...Like 2 qt Pyrex covered casserole dishes. In the upper section of that cabinet is a shelf with my extra oven racks, and another with extra party napkins, paper plates, etc that we don't need very often. In the base cabinet under the microwave is cooling racks, glass baking pans, and large broiler/roasting pans. I have 5 shelf spaces in that cabinet so things don't have to stack too much. I got so tired of having to nest everything just right and sort through to get the pan I wanted.

In the gray cabinets:
Upper to left of stove: spices
Over stove: hood vent pipe...Wasn't supposed to be there, but that's a long story
Upper to right of stove: Spices

Base to left of stove:
Drawer 1 (top): utensils like whisks, can openers, tongs, thermometers
Drawer 2: Pyrex measuring pitchers
Drawer 3: pot and pan lids

Under stove:
top drawer: stainless pots and colanders
bottom drawer: cast iron Dutch oven and skillets, non-stick and cast iron

right of stove:
Drawer 1: utensils like metal spatulas/pancake turners, cooking spoons, meat fork
Drawer 2: Wok and wok grate
Drawer 3: waffle irons

Wood cabinet to right of stove:
Upper: oils and vinegars, noodles, etc.
Lower: large stainless bowls, vacuum sealer, deep fryer, flip-over waffle iron

On counter: canisters with flour and sugar since the baking ingredients are in the baking area and occasionally I need just a bit when cooking at the stove. The other canisters hold cookies. :-)

Main sink wall
The shelf built into the wall has some 'display items' at the top and coffee and tea supplies, coffee grinder, and mugs in the rest. The coffee maker sits on the counter in front of it.

In the far left drawer bank:
Drawer 1: kitchen towels and dish rags
Drawer 2: Panini grill
Drawer 3: pasta maker and salad spinner (One day I should actually try out the pasta maker...A friend gave us their extra)

Then dishwasher, sink (cleaning supplies and dw detergent underneath), and the other dishwasher.

The far left base cabinets hold dishes...bowls (cereal and pasta sized), plates (dinner and salad/dessert), platters, and Tupperware sort of storage containers. (I think they're actually mostly Rubbermaid) The hutch above holds glassware, pitchers, and serving bowls.

Main sink side of island:
From right as facing the island from that side (nearest stove):
Trash and recycle pullout with knives above.
4 drawers:
1) vegetable peelers, graters, knife sharpeners
2) 2 mixing bowl sets
3 and 4 are yet to be determined for sure, because my dh just replaced a doored cabinet with the drawers that I thought would be more useful.
A very deep drawer/pullout that holds cutting boards and rolls of plastic wrap, foil, parchment, etc.

Baking side of island:
Prep sink
2 drawers that hold my bread mixer and bread pans
Shelves...also new, but I think I'll put baskets or boxes that will hold cake decorating supplies and cookie cutters, because they're in my way in the baking area

Baking/breakfast center wall:
From left...
Breakfast center
Upper: cereal, peanut butter, honey, crackers, chips
Drawer 1: bread
Drawer 2: napkins, placemats
Drawer 3: water bottles

Fridge with cabinet above that holds vases and plastic pitchers, and a shelf for my extra fridge shelves.

Baking center with supplies like flour sugar, spices, dried fruit, flavorings, coconut, etc. etc in the uppers. Base cabinets have utensils in all the top drawers. A baking sheet rack in the doored cupboard, and in the big drawers:
Top: Food processor, chopper, handmixer, stand mixer parts
Bottom: cake, cheesecake, and pie pans

Oven with vitamins, medicines above, and storage of extra dishes above that. In the drawer under the oven are hot pads and my pizza stone.

I think that covers it and I hope it's right...I'm not going to read it over before posting, because it's taken me so long and my family wants dinner!! :-D


clipped on: 01.06.2013 at 08:46 am    last updated on: 01.06.2013 at 08:47 am

RE: Filtered water faucet at sink? (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: chikdoc on 04.22.2011 at 10:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

Rohl makes faucets with their own filtration, so no need for a seperate faucet. They're a little pricey though. I wanted the instant hot water, so I'm in the same boat with two separate faucets. I'm planning to spread them far apart so it doesn't look too busy.


clipped on: 01.05.2013 at 11:07 pm    last updated on: 01.05.2013 at 11:07 pm

RE: Filtered water faucet at sink? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: bellacucina on 04.20.2011 at 09:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi, Here is our new KWC demi paired with a Royal Doulton water filter faucet and air switch. DH researched the type of water filter -- I had never heard of Royal Doulton for anything other than china, but apparently they have been making ceramic water filters for a long time. I love our water filter for green reasons and for the taste, and b/c it's very solidly built, like the KWC, and b/c we chose a fridge w/o the door filter.

Photobucket a


clipped on: 01.05.2013 at 11:05 pm    last updated on: 01.05.2013 at 11:05 pm

RE: Filtered water thru faucet (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: breezygirl on 02.21.2012 at 02:55 am in Appliances Forum

I use a GE filter on the cold water line under my cleanup sink. I love it because I don't have an extra faucet at the sink, meaning I didn't have to spend on the faucet and don't have it cluttering up my clean counter/sink area. The filter system was about $50 at HD, and the replacement filters are a fraction of that.

My water is good quality (used to be a beer made here based on the excellent water in the area), but I just don't like the taste so filtering out "bad" things wasn't an issue.


clipped on: 01.05.2013 at 09:52 am    last updated on: 01.05.2013 at 09:52 am

RE: 99% Finished Kitchen--creamy white w/soapstone (Follow-Up #54)

posted by: jbrodie on 03.02.2009 at 03:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

I still can't believe this response. You are all too nice!

elfmom--Are your cabs factory finished? If so, I don't know that you could paint over them without sanding them down, which would be a shame. I would ask an experienced painter. We ordered our cabs unfinished and had a painter (awesome painter if anyone needs one in SF Bay Area on the peninsula) paint them. Spraying was much less expensive than brushing, but it did make as thick of a coat and we liked the idea that with the final brush area we could touch up without it being noticeable. That's part of the reason that we went with painted over the factory finish white that is "baked" on, and also we didn't like the look of the finishes our cab maker did and saw some in a home nearby that they made and it looked like the finish chipped easily. I guess if you order from the big companies with the factory finish it's much more durable than when you go with a custom cabinet maker in California...I guess they can't use the same chemicals to make it durable due to CA regulations. I have a friend that has the glaze. Her kitchen was one of my inspirations and it's gorgeous (I'll ask her if I can post some of the pictures I have of it). I think it looks great, and it hides the dirt! Everything shows on my cabs, but with the glaze you can get away with more!

mamabirrd--We like the Natura. It doesn't smell, which is great! We wanted to be as green as possible. The only place we didn't use it is on the cabinets because from everything I read on this site and talking to guy at the paint store, it sounded like Aura was a better bet for holding up to the beating cabinets get. A lot of people on the forum also like Fine Paints of Europe for cabinets, but that's $100 per can!

chinchette--The chairs at the desk (also the same ones at our dining table) are from Crate & Barrel. They are quite comfortable and once we get cushions will be even more so! I do have to say, they are not the most practical. A friends child was over recently and stood on a chair and little piece broken off the side of the seat. My husband glued it back on, but I can tell it's not going to last. Once we have cushions (C&B only has cream and black ones, and we want something in between) they will be more protected, which will be a good thing! Also, they will be tricky to clean if anything is ever spilled or if it gets dusty inside. The great thing is they are only $129! Here's the link:
Our barstools were a great deal too and are extremely comfortable. $350 for two and Sturbridge Yankee Workshop.

For the chalkboard idea, I have to give credit to Sunset Magazine. I saw a picture a couple of years ago and tore it out. It's one of my favorite things. I often write a message near the top and then the kids decorated the bottom.

I know I still owe some people the tile name, and I'll try to get out there to take a look at it soon!


clipped on: 12.25.2012 at 01:51 pm    last updated on: 12.25.2012 at 01:52 pm

RE: size of prep sink (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: lisa_a on 12.27.2011 at 08:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm in almost the same boat as you, bacin0. My island will be 54" x 39" (wish I had room for a 6' long island!) and I'm hesitant to give up a lot of counter to a prep sink but I also know one would be handy to have.

Because I intend to install mine at a corner with the faucet at an angle so it can be used from either the long or short side of the island, I'm leaning towards a round or square sink. Like this:

No 2 traditional kitchen

Blanco offers the Rondo, a 15.25" interior diameter round that requires a 21" cab for undermount installation and a 18" cab for drop-in installation. Interior dimensions seem like it would work but what about depth? It's only 6-5/8" deep. Undermounted with a 3cm counter, it would be 7-7/8" deep. Is that too shallow?

I also found a round sink from Franke, the Espirit, in stainless. It's interior diameter is 16 1/8", depth is 7 1/8". Required cab size is 21".

Franke also offers a round fire clay sink called Luna. It's interior diameter is 15 3/8", depth is 7 7/8".

Is there a minimum depth for a prep sink?

Hope you don't mind me tagging on to your thread, bacin0, but I figure you'd want to know this as well.


clipped on: 12.23.2012 at 12:22 pm    last updated on: 12.23.2012 at 12:22 pm

RE: Ticor Sink Reviews please (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: jem199 on 07.18.2010 at 12:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

I actually ordered mine from Overstock and it arrived in 5 days. I also want to add that Kohler drains are A MUST. I picked that tip up here too. Put the Ticor drains in the Goodwill box or Freecycle them. Get the Chrome Kohler drains for apprx. $40 ea. from Faucetdirect. The chrome works fine with the Ticor sink - no need to spend $100 on stainless. The other finishes are crap, so I hear.

I can't tell you how much I appreciate the heavy drain basket. It's the easiest drain in the world to install. It doesn't have a mind of it's own and there is no fussing to get it to hold water. It's worth the extra cash to get these. We really missed them in our cottage rental a couple of weeks ago. It's an overlooked item that you use every day.


clipped on: 12.21.2012 at 08:23 pm    last updated on: 12.21.2012 at 08:23 pm