Clippings by tito
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RE: ot that annoying babiesrus pop up!!! (Follow-Up #3)
If you prefer to keep using Internet Explorer, try this:
On IE, go to tools, then choose internet options. Go to the security tab, choose restricted sites, and click on the sites button. Add each of the following sites:
Then you'll have no more annoying ads!
<none>clipped on: 11.21.2007 at 09:05 pm last updated on: 11.21.2007 at 09:05 pm
RE: Beeswax Oil at reasonable price anywhere? (Follow-Up #4)
My husband doesn't pay attention enough to the real questions :)
I'm doing a ditto on what Dixielogs said. Holland Bowl Mill is where we buy our stuff. They carry a huge 28 oz tub.
Another option is what some of the other stoners were doing in another thread. They were mixing 50% mineral oil with 50% bee's wax. I havent tried this yet but it may be a fun and cheaper alternative. You may be able to find the bee's wax in bulk on eBay and then buy the Mineral oil in bulk from STE Oil Company Inc. We order the Crystal Plus Oil 70FG. It's the food grade mineral oil in a thinner viscosity so it's easier to apply. I know they sell it by the gallon and so on. We buy it by the drum. Hope this helps!
Here is a link that might be useful: STE Mineral Oil
<none>clipped on: 11.03.2007 at 11:59 am last updated on: 11.03.2007 at 11:59 am
RE: Beeswax Oil at reasonable price anywhere? (Follow-Up #3)
here is where we get ours. I usually give each of out customers a small container to start with, but I have the medium size one in my kitchen. will last you a very long time.
Here is a link that might be useful: Holland Bowl Mill
<none>clipped on: 11.03.2007 at 11:58 am last updated on: 11.03.2007 at 11:59 am
What keeps soapstone darker longer. . .The answer! ! !
So I did a little test to answer the question.
Clapham's Beeswax Salad Bowl Finish
First a brief discription (my opinion)
Clapham's: It is a paste, inbetween a wax and a liquid. Goes on easy and feels amazing after you put it on. On the touch catagory it is the best of the bunch.
Bee's Oil: It is a wax. A little harder to get on but if you heat it up it would be easier. Has stay power. This is at the top when it comes to keeping the patina on the stone.
Regular Mineral Oil: Needs no discription. It's easy to apply. Would keep a bottle around for those lazy days. Feels oily compared to the wax or paste. That feel goes away quickly though (whithin a hour or two if you wipe it down with a rag).
Mystery Oil: It is a liquid similar to the mineral oil. Not so crazy about the warning lable. Feels a little bit more oily than the mineral oil at first. Seems to react similar to the mineral oil. In my opinion I would rather use the mineral oil just because of convienience considering the warning about it being combustable.
The mystery oil evaporated the quickest, then the mineral oil, contiuing on to the clapham's, and finally the Bee's oil.
I could continue the process but I do believe that you will continue to see the same results. Over time I think you wouold spend less time applying with the wax products but I would keep the mineral oil around for quick touchups or lazy days.
This test also gives people a good idea of how soapstone will react when it is installed in their home. This process of oiling and or waxing lessens with time. Each variety of soapstone can react differently as well. This means some stone evaporates the oil or wax products off quicker and or slower. Some people leave it unoiled some oil it often. Some like it inbetween and only oil it sometimes. . . So it really is up to the owner to choose how the stone fits your lifestyle. I still have not figured out how describe to someone who does not know about soapstone in one or two paragraphs. I know it sounds cheesy but I feel it's an experience. If you don't touch it, feel it, live with it, you'll never really understand it.
<none>clipped on: 10.25.2007 at 11:56 am last updated on: 10.25.2007 at 11:56 am
RE: classic/period/retro white hex/subway advice? (Follow-Up #1)
Rittenhouse would be 100 white. As for the hex, the color name is white (very original! :-) ) As for the hex grout color, if you're looking to have the grey period look, look into the following colors:
Laticrete Silver Shadow or Light Pewter
Hydroment Mobe Pearl
Custom Building Products Platinum
Mapei Warm Bray
<none>clipped on: 06.24.2007 at 07:41 pm last updated on: 06.24.2007 at 07:41 pm
RE: anyone ever do a glass mosaic backsplash themselves? (Follow-Up #6)
Installing any tile requires patience and precision, but is not all that hard to do. Plus, with something as busy as a glass mosaic, the flubs will be small, and hide well in the overall field.
If your tiles are anything but ultra-thin, I would urge you to reconsider using a hand tool to cut your tiles: it's not that expensive to rent a tile wet-saw, around $35-40 a day here in LA, and you'll feel like an awesome construction goddess once you get used to it. The saw gives a nice, clean cut, and will fatigue you far less than a hand cutter will. Try to save the cutting for the end of your project, so that you minimize your rental time.
Here are a few pointers on using the saw. If the saw blade is turning, be aware of your hands at all times. To remind myself, I chant a mantra: "Where are my hands? Where are my hands? Where are my hands?" If the blade is turning, you must have on protective glasses or goggles. Heavy rubber gloves, like the old-fashioned dishwashing gloves, will help protect your skin, and a plastic apron will help to keep you dry. (Some wet saws throw a lot of water off the blade, and if you're standing in front of the saw, guess where it lands?)
Because I was working with 1x1's, my DH made me a "pusher stick" to help with some of the cutting; it was a piece of 1x2 wood about a foot long, with a 90 degree angled notch cut in the 2" wide section, so that I could hold or push the tiles into place as they went under the blade to be cut.
Never try to cut more than one tile at a time. Never try to cut a sheet of mesh or paper-mounted tile all at once.
If anything ever gets scary, TURN THE SAW OFF FIRST, then deal with the rest of the problem.
Are your tiles pre-mounted on mesh or paper? Or will you be handplacing them?
Sometimes you can deal with fitting mesh-backed tiles into a limited space by mooshing them together a little and making the grout joint a bit thinner. Can't go too far with this, though, or else things will get out of alignment.
Use white mortar. I recall reading about problems with the clear stuff 18 months ago when I was installing glass tiles in my bathroom. Seems peoples' shower walls and ceilings were falling out.
Mesh-mounted mosaic is the very easiest to use, but unfortunately the trend seems to be toward the paper-mounted stuff. I don't like it because you can't soak off the paper until your mortar is dry, and by then, any flubs in the placement are also mortared in. I would distrust any advice that says to soak the paper off before the mortar has set. It takes a good bit of water to get the paper off, and all that water thins the mortar out and makes it more likely that your tiles will fall out of place.
Something to remember is that gravity will pull your wall tiles downward, and they may tend to slip. With mesh-backed tiles you can help hold them up with some masking tape and/or spacers, and you can see how they're doing on the wall after you've put them up. Can't do that with the paper-mounted type. Here's a trick if you're working with the paper-mounted mosaics: get a couple of bags of 1/16" tile spacers, and insert them between the tiles, through the paper, to keep the tiles properly spaced.
BTW, don't try to put the spacers in an "X" in the intersections of the tiles, just push one of the legs through the paper, between the tiles. (2 legs will lie flat against the tiles, and the 4th leg will stick straight out.) Insert one spacer in the grout joint between each 2 tiles. Yes, that's a lot of spacers, but it's worth it when all your tiles are nice and even and your grout joints are uniform. (I tried skipping this in a couple of places, and got some tiles that looked like buck teeth as result!)
Also, never assume that your counter is completely level. Instead, figure out where the "equator" and center line will be in your installation, mark level and plumb lines there, and use those lines as guides for the placement of your tiles.
If you want to do a handmounted design, Mosaic Maestro (Master?) in Chicago sells 11" wide rolls of tile tape that looks like beefed up scotch tape. That way you can sketch out your design on paper, arrange your tiles on the paper, and then put the tape down over them to hold them in place for transfer to your installation. This can get heavy, though, so use an exacto knife to cut the pattern into manageable chunks for transfer. (I used a sharpie to number my chunks and keep them in order.) The great thing about the tape mounting is that you can see through it and correct any problems before they get "set in stone".
One last thing: how are you going to finish off the edges? Will you leave them "raw", (which can look very good with some of the thicker glass tile) or put bullnosed tile, wood molding, or something else around them? If you enclose them in an edging frame, put that up first, and then protect the edging treatment while putting up your mosaic. For protection, I'd recommend using the brown paper painter's tape that's backed with post-it-note type sticky stuff. Masking tape sometimes sticks too well, and can be a pain to peel off.
Okay, this has been a really long post, but YOU CAN DO THIS! It's a grand feeling to look at your own handiwork and know that it's all uniquely yours.
<none>clipped on: 02.02.2007 at 03:19 pm last updated on: 02.02.2007 at 03:19 pm
RE: cold air reutrn covers (Follow-Up #6)
I just purchased some new register covers. They are expensive, no two ways about it. Here are some of the resources I consulted.
<none>clipped on: 11.23.2006 at 04:29 pm last updated on: 11.23.2006 at 04:29 pm
RE: Subway Tile - Help! (Follow-Up #11)
White grout looks nice for only so long then... well it becomes impossible to keep clean - think about what will be splashing on it... that's what will eventually end up in it
<none>clipped on: 11.19.2006 at 02:01 am last updated on: 11.19.2006 at 02:01 am
RE: So you don't have to go to my clippings... (Follow-Up #5)
Here is the photo Girlwithaspirin put in the thread you mentioned:
Here, also, is the kitchen designed because of the kitchen in the movie "Somethings Gotta Give". I wish I had all the info for the original link, but this is just what I'd saved for my own use, so I hope it's OK to include in a post.:
<none>clipped on: 11.18.2006 at 06:42 pm last updated on: 11.18.2006 at 06:42 pm
windows and more pictures (Follow-Up #39)
jejvtr, can you give more info on your window? we went to home depot and lowes. we can get a window that opens in the center at home depot but it's vinyl. its around $200. or we could spens $600 on a pella made of wood interior and aluminum outer. any suggestions??
ok, i took some more pictures and changed some things. i took out the tv, which i think i like better. i will put something else there. i also took all the red and yellow plates out of the display cabinets next to the sink. and used all white in the right cab and all glass in the left. what do you think? better? worse? also, i was going to purchase the pottery barn chalkboard for the kitchen wall. dh made one for me today. its big, what do you think of it in the kitchen area? too big? we can't write on it yet so it looks bare. my husband can draw really well so i thought he could draw a picture up at the top and we could use the bottom for lists, notes ect. please be honest.
I am definitely going to put something over on the butlers pantries. maybe a mixer on one and some containers of some sort on the other.
please tell me what you think.
<none>clipped on: 11.18.2006 at 06:41 pm last updated on: 11.18.2006 at 06:41 pm
RE: Before drywall, what electrical needs did we miss? (Follow-Up #17)
These are electrical ideas I collected from a few threads on the Building forum.
wiring for a tv outside up in a corner of my lanai pool area;
wired every room for tv, internet, phone, security;
Wired for Cat 5e ABus whole house audio.
Rope lights (cove dining rm, under toe kick in bath/kitchen)
outlets in cabs for chargeables
wired for under cab, drop-down, flat screens in kitchen and craft room
low lighting at stairs
I also double-wired for tv/phone in every bedroom figuring furniture placement may change. I put a phone jack just inside the rear porch door, in the garage, and in DH's basement workshop area.
Place several outlets inside walk-in closets for charging...batteries, pagers, cell phones, cordless flashlights...and those worthless, every-home-has-one, dust busters!
4. Here's the LIFESTYLE ELECTRICAL PACKAGE:
DH had them add an outlet and ethernet above the great room soffit so he can put a wireless access point up there. It's central to the house and won't be seen.
We had dimmers on every entry point,
Home runs for all TV (A must for satellite) & Phone jacks. Quad outlets located kitchen & bathroom counters,computer/office area,night stand area in bedroom.
If you have a dustbuster, include an outlet for wherever you will keep it--in our current house that was in a kitchen cabinet, but will be in the pantry in our new house.
We're using recessed lights in our finished basement, but we put in a box for a ceiling light over the area where we would put a pool table so we can add a ceiling light there in the future if we do get a pool table.
Some people put an outlet inside a kitchen cabinet for recharging things so that they can keep phones, etc., out of sight while they are being recharged.
I recall one person on another post who didn't like the big plug that you get with cordless telephones so she put the outlet for the phone in a pantry cabinet and then drilled a hole in the side of the cabinet and ran the cord through the hole to the adjacent counter where she kept the phone.
We also will probably put a motorized rollup hurricane shutter on our master bedroom window so are pre-wiring for that.
I wish I had thought about the placement of the china hutch with an interior light. There is an outlet to the left and right of the hutch, but that would mean exposing an extension cord.
<none>clipped on: 11.12.2006 at 02:34 am last updated on: 11.12.2006 at 02:34 am
Resources for Old Home Owners
I've been researching my kitchen for months, and combing the internet for information and resources to outfit my new kitchen in my old (1923) house. Various posts here and there on this forum let me know I'm not alone in the finishes I've decided on and the overall look I want for my kitchen (appropriate for the house, but with certain modern touches like a dishwasher and 36" range).
I thought I'd start a thread to collect all the resources I've found and let others post theirs to give those of us who are looking for period-appropriate details for our kitchens (even if they're not overall "period" kitchens or even in old homes).
Cabinets: I will probably go with a local cabinet maker, but who can argue with the beauty (and ideas available) of Crown Point? Their prices are high, but definitely a good source for the look/feel of a period kitchen.
Lighting: The favorite around here seems to be Rejuvenation, which offers period reproduction lighting and "houseparts" (cabinet knobs, doorknobs, push-button switches and switchplates, etc.)
Cabinet hardware/doorknobs/switchplates: I heard about House of Antique Hardware while watching Bob Vila, and have to say that their prices are definitely less expensive than Rejuvenation's.
Marmoleum flooring: http://www.themarmoleumstore.com
Restored vintage ranges: http://www.antiquegasstoves.com/
Vintage lookalike fridges & ranges:
I know that this board is a wealth of information on vintage-y things, and I've only just touched the tip of the iceberg on info. What else have you got?
<none>clipped on: 10.15.2006 at 11:08 am last updated on: 10.15.2006 at 03:39 pm
RE: Resources for Old Home Owners (Follow-Up #2)
I got all of my salvage from :
another lighting place that has beautiful things :
I am getting all of my hardware from :
Robinson's antiques...they have beautiful pulls etc at very reasonable prices
<none>clipped on: 10.15.2006 at 11:09 am last updated on: 10.15.2006 at 11:09 am