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RE: Are there rug rules? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bronwynsmom on 07.01.2010 at 05:19 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Rugs do several things, and so here are the things to think about.
They add color and pattern, of course. Keep in mind that the floor and ceiling are the largest surfaces in a room, and so how they are managed has a lot of impact.
They protect floors from the grit and wear of feet and shoes (and Big Wheels...)
They define spaces, particularly when a large room has more than one functional area.
They provide cushioning and warmth and sound absorption under foot.
They give the cats something to sharpen their claws on.
(Oh, wait, that's my house...)
They catch loose dust, and keep it there until you vacuum it up.

When you are placing a rug on the whole floor, the rule of thumb is, at least one foot off the wall all around. Bookcases and chests and tables do best when the rug stops right at their front feet, so that tells you something about how big the rug can be. If you have to put front feet on the rug, put wedges on the back feet to level the piece of furniture...that goes for sofas, too. A rug that goes only part way under a sofa looks all right when the back of the sofa is against the wall, but not so much when it's out in the room.

Rugs under tables and chairs should be big enough that you can pull the chairs back to sit in them without pulling them off the rug.

You also want the rug either all the way in or all the way out of any circulation space through the room or between spaces in the that when you walk naturally through the space, you aren't walking with one foot on and one foot off the rug.

And you don't want the corner of the rug to land somewhere in the middle of a doorway, unless it is far enough ahead of you when you walk in that you can turn and walk around it...30 inches is pretty much minimum there.

The point of all those guidelines is both visual harmony and safety.

And my rule is, even if you buy an inexpensive rug, buy a really good pad for it. It adds life to the rug and luxury underfoot.


clipped on: 07.04.2010 at 04:20 pm    last updated on: 07.04.2010 at 04:20 pm

RE: Show me your powder room please (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: dlm2000 on 06.24.2010 at 04:22 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I love all the different looks - a powder room is a safe place to be a bit more daring if you want. Here's ours.

I wanted a bit of drama, hence the black beadboard and trim. Wall color is Ben Mo Monterey White, paintings on the right came from Goodwill online, I took them apart, painted the fames and matts, the Capodimonte plaques belonged to my grandmother, made the curtain and tieback then hung them on knobs from Anthropologie.



Idea for our downstairs bath! Beadboard!!!
clipped on: 06.24.2010 at 09:31 pm    last updated on: 06.24.2010 at 09:31 pm

RE: Looking for a past thread, please... (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: lyno on 02.02.2009 at 09:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

I think this is what you're looking for; here's the link. If you print it, it's like 75 pages long.

Here is a link that might be useful: What do you wish you had done differently?


clipped on: 02.03.2009 at 10:19 pm    last updated on: 02.03.2009 at 10:19 pm

RE: Help. How do you find old posts that you made? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: erikanh on 02.02.2009 at 11:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

Try this?

Here is a link that might be useful: Google results of every kitchen thread with word


This whole thread is very helpful!
clipped on: 02.03.2009 at 10:16 pm    last updated on: 02.03.2009 at 10:16 pm

Jockewing & Other Gray Lovers - Pics inc...

posted by: ttodd on 01.29.2009 at 10:38 am in Home Decorating Forum

Hope I spelled Jockewing correctly!

I was thumbing through a back issue of Cottage Living (March 2008) and came across the cottage home of Chaffee Braithwaite (daughter of designer Nancy Braithwaite). She used all grays and I thought that it gave some good gray recommendations as well as color descriptions. When I couldn't locate the article on-line I took some pics of the MBR & bath for you all as well as the color recs.

Enjoy - hope it helps someone in the eternal quest for the right gray!


The article stated that 'Nancy turns again and again to these shades all by Benjamin Moore', I got the sample colors from

Revere Pewter 'It's a taupey gary that I use all of the time':


Wickham Gray 'This one has a bit of yellow':


Whitestone 'I like that it has touches of blue':


Cement Gray 'Warm tones of pink make this color really beautiful':


For those who want to know ~ the bedroom walls are Rubidoux and trim is Zephyr Hills by Pratt and Lambert:



Zephyr Hills:


Bathroom trim is Glacier Sand also by PL and floor and wall tiles are from Renaissance Tile and Bath 404-231-9203 and

Glacier Sand:


Luscious ain't it?


clipped on: 01.31.2009 at 10:01 pm    last updated on: 01.31.2009 at 10:01 pm

RE: Can you show me a nice 'neutral' color for the entire house? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: diamondgirl on 01.20.2009 at 08:42 pm in Paint Forum

1) Neutrals will take an undertone, so it is important to know which neutrals according to the, yellow, or blue?

2) Then, once you know that, choose cool or warm of those undertones. Then, light or dark.

(think skin here. Why does gray look so bad on some people and yellow look great? Why does yellow make some people look sick, and gray makes them look fresh and hip?)

3) Natural daylight. No natural light in the house? Unless you like a cave-like feeling on a Sunny day, limit yourself to the first top 3 colors of the card in the paint fan. If you like a cave look during the day, go ahead and use the bottom 3 or 4.

If you have a house with tons of windows and natural light, lucky you, paint every room in deep saturated's great in the day with light, and there is nothing like dark walls at night.

Okay......that being said, here are some great colors I've used.

BM Aura .... HARMONY

This is the ultimate beige/ neutral. It goes with yellow, taupe, green, blue. It can be warm, or cool, depending on what's in the room. It's nice. Cut it in half and the color is a light, pleasant creamy color.

BM SMOKEY TAUPE....the EXACT color of that beautiful linen sometimes called 'flax' (the sample looks like it has a green undertone, but it goes competely gray gorgeous taupe in my cream and white bedroom. It's classy, and fabulous with white trims.

SW NUTHATCH: Dark and gorgeous brown without looking like you tried too hard. I had it in a bedroom with white trims and off white carpet. Caution: Ceilings look really bad when you have these dark colors if you leave them white. Paint the ceiling a few shades lighter (go up the card sample in the same color....that always works.)

BM - PATRIOTIC WHITE. This is a quick change white. It can go white with a tinge of ocean blue, or ocean blue-green. It's cool one minute, then turns warm in the sunlight. At night it's warmer. It's a very fresh white. It's great if you need light in the room from lack of windows. Pair this wall color with very white trims. With ebonized floors,blacks, browns and greys, driftwoods, and touches of sunny yellows this color would be so chic.

SW Spaulding grey, Garret Grey, : these are great deep colors of taupe/brown. I painted my exterior with Garrett was a dark purply taupe. I had blue-green shutters, soft white trims, and a cherry stained front door. Very, very beautiful.

Inside, Spaulding grey is a dark purply brown. Very nice with cherry wood, or maple. Great for a feature fireplace wall. Makes medium or light stained wood, stone, brick "pop".

SW Mystic Beige: a medium light nice warm beige...goes with everything. Some people would call it boring, but if you have nice architecture, or nice furniture, fabrics, or paintings, this color will let them be the star.

One opinion: I really don't like the paint "rules" you'll be told at the paint store. I'd stay away from asking advice in there. Find out if they have a color consultant on the payroll who you could talk to. Also, if you read decorating magazines, keep a file in your file cabinet for "paint color" .......almost all of these magazines have a section on what colors to use. Rip out the pages, and stash them in the file. When you need to pick a color, you'll have the names, and the descriptions, and sometimes pictures of the rooms using the colors.


clipped on: 01.26.2009 at 08:08 pm    last updated on: 01.26.2009 at 08:08 pm

RE: should I or shouldn't I? refinish my old floors (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: synrgystyk on 01.12.2009 at 01:58 pm in Flooring Forum


Check out the "U-Sand" floor sander and "Waterlox" floor finish. I just sanded and refinished my "new" master bedroom floor (antique heart pine original to the house) and had great results with the U-Sand and Waterlox Original.

The U-Sand uses four 6" random orbit disks and comes with its own vacuum system; there was some dust, but not much. It also gets right up to the edge of the floor -- you probably won't need to rent an edger. Yes, it's probably lighter than a "pro" machine and it'll take you longer to do the sanding, but as a first time DIYer I found that to be an asset. (I don't mind a little extra time if it means I'm less likely to damage the floor.)

Waterlox is a penetrating finish that is very easy to apply and, since each coat "melts" into the previous coats, you don't have to sand between each coat. (Next time I'll probably screen before the final coat because in an old house dust particles seem to generate spontaneously.) I'm very happy with the product and final finish.

I don't have any floor-specific pics online, but (provided I can do this correctly) here's a "before" finishing (mid-woodwork strip and refinish) pic: [IMG][/IMG]
and an "after": [IMG][/IMG]

The lower right corner of the "after" pic shows the same area of flooring as in the "before" pic. HTH



clipped on: 01.24.2009 at 11:28 pm    last updated on: 01.24.2009 at 11:28 pm

RE: Photobucket warning (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: amysrq on 01.24.2009 at 11:22 am in Home Decorating Forum

Kswl, I remember having trouble getting to see your pics on smugmug... (Remember me begging and whining?! ;-)) Was I the only person who had trouble getting in?

I am also wondering about transferring all my photos from PB to a new site. I would want to wait for it to be safe to go back in and grab several years worth of pics. What a PITA...

There's talk of this on the Kitchens board, too. And here's a link from PC World magazine, just in case anyone gets infected.

Here is a link that might be useful: article on removal


clipped on: 01.24.2009 at 09:25 pm    last updated on: 01.24.2009 at 09:26 pm

RE: Wall Words??? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: reno_fan on 01.24.2009 at 01:16 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I have. I ordered from Wise for my dining room in my old house.

Here's a shot:


In the last few days, though, I've attempted my own wallwords and have been very happy with the result and the cost. The larger you go, the more expensive, but I don't think they look good small. My dining room quote cost me around $60 because of the size.

Here are a few things I've done in the last few days.

I typed out the phrase I wanted on my computer, attached carbon paper to the back, and traced the letters onto the wall. Then I went over it all with a paint pen for "instant" and CHEAP wall words.

Here is the transition piece I did between 2 paint colors. It looks like a sign, but it's really just trim nailed into the wall, and the words are painted right on the wall:


Then I got inspired, so I did another custom quote in my foyer:




clipped on: 01.24.2009 at 09:24 pm    last updated on: 01.24.2009 at 09:24 pm

RE: How To Clean Stain Off Of Granite? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: buehl on 01.24.2009 at 09:45 am in Kitchens Forum


clipped on: 01.24.2009 at 02:20 pm    last updated on: 01.24.2009 at 02:20 pm

Stone Information and Advice (& Checklists)

posted by: buehl on 04.14.2008 at 02:56 am in Kitchens Forum

First off, I want to give a big thank-you to StoneGirl, Kevin, Joshua, Mimi, and others (past and current) on this forum who have given us many words of wisdom concerning stone countertops.

I've tried to compile everything I saved over the past 8 months that I've been on this Forum. Most of it was taken from a write-up by StoneGirl (Natural stone primer/granite 101); other threads and sources were used as well.

So...if the experts could review the information I've compiled below and send me comments (here or via email), I will talk to StarPooh about getting this on the FAQ.

Stone Information, Advice, and Checklists:

In an industry that has no set standards, there are many unscrupulous people trying to palm themselves off as fabricators. There are also a number of people with odd agendas trying to spread ill rumors about natural stone and propagate some very confusing and contradictory information. This is my small attempt at shedding a little light on the subject.

Slab Selection:

On the selection of the actual stone slabs - When you go to the slab yard to choose slabs for your kitchen, there are a few things you need to take note of:

  • Surface finish: The finish - be it polished, honed, flamed antiqued, or brushed, should be even. There should be no spots that have obvious machine marks, scratches, or other man made marks. You can judge by the crystal and vein pattern of the stone if the marks you see are man-made or naturally occurring. It is true that not all minerals will finish evenly and if you look at an angle on a polished slab with a larger crystal pattern, you can clearly see this. Tropic Brown would be a good example here. The black spots will not polish near as shiny as the brown ones and this will be very obvious on an unresined slab when looking at an acute angle against the light. The black specks will show as duller marks. The slab will feel smooth and appear shiny if seen from above, though. This effect will not be as pronounced on a resined slab.

    Bottom line when judging the quality of a surface finish: Look for unnatural appearing marks. If there are any on the face of the slab, it is not desirable. They might well be on the extreme edges, but this is normal and a result of the slab manufacturing process.

  • Mesh backing: Some slabs have a mesh backing. This was done at the plant where the slabs were finished. This backing adds support to brittle materials or materials with excessive veining or fissures. A number of exotic stones will have this. This does not necessarily make the material one of inferior quality, though. Quite often, these slabs will require special care in fabrication and transport, so be prepared for the fabricator to charge accordingly. If you are unsure about the slabs, ask your fabricator what his opinion of the material is.

  • Cracks and fissures: Yes - some slabs might have them. One could have quite the discussion on whether that line on the slab could be one or the other, so I'll try to explain it a little.

    • Fissures are naturally occurring features in stone. They will appear as little lines in the surface of the slabs (very visible in a material like Verde Peacock) and could even be of a different color than the majority of the stone (think of those crazed white lines sometimes appearing in Antique Brown). Sometimes they could be fused like in Antique Brown and other times they could be open, as is the case in the Verde Peacock example. They could often also go right through the body of the slab like in Crema Marfil, for instance. If you look at the light reflection across a fissure, you will never see a break - i.e., there will be no change in the plane on either side of a fissure.

    • A crack on the other hand is a problem... If you look at the slab at an oblique angle in the light, you will note the reflection of the shine on the surface of the stone. A crack will appear as a definite line through the reflection and the reflection will have a different appearance on either side of the line - there will be a break in the plane. Reject slabs like this. One could still work around fissures. Cracks are a whole other can of worms.

    • Resined slabs: The resin gets applied prior to the slabs being polished. Most of the resin then gets ground off in the polishing process. You should not be able to see just by looking at the surface of a slab whether it was resined or not. If you look at the rough sides of the slab, though, you will see some drippy shiny marks, almost like varnish drips. This should be the only indication that the slab is resined. There should never be a film or layer on the face of the stone. With extremely porous stones, the resining will alleviate, but not totally eliminate absorption issues and sealer could still be required. Lady's dream is an example. This material is always resined, but still absorbs liquids and requires sealer.

    • Test the material you have selected for absorption issues regardless - it is always best to know what your stone is capable of and to be prepared for any issues that might arise. Some stones indeed do not require sealer - be they resined or not. Baltic Brown would be an example here. It will not absorb one iota of anything, but it is still resined to eliminate a flaking issue.

Tests (especially for Absolute Black) (using a sample of YOUR slab):

  • To verify you have true AB and not dyed: Clean with denatured alcohol and rub marble polishing powder on the face. (Get denatured alcohol at Home Depot in the paint department)

  • Lemon Juice or better yet some Muratic Acid: will quickly show if the stone has alot of calcium content and will end up getting etched. This is usually chinese stone, not indian.

  • Acetone: The Dying usually is done on the same chinese stone. like the others said, acetone on a rag will reveal any dye that has been applied

  • Chips: Using something very hard & metalhit the granite sharply & hard on edges to see if it chips, breaks, or cracks


  • Before the templaters get there...
    • Make sure you have a pretty good idea of your faucet layout--where you want the holes drilled for all the fixtures and do a test mock up to make sure you have accounted for sufficient clearances between each fixture.

    • Be sure you test your faucet for clearances not just between each fixture, but also between the faucet and the wall behind the faucet (if there is one). You need to be sure the handle will function properly.

    • Make sure that the cabinets are totally level (not out by more than 1/8") before the counter installers come in.

    • Check how close they should come to a stove and make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter.

    • Make sure they have the sink/faucet templates to work from.

    • Make sure have your garbage disposal air switch on hand or know the diameter

  • If you are not putting in a backsplash, tell them

  • Double check the template. Make sure that the measurements are reasonable. Measure the opening for the range.

  • Seam Placement: Yet another kettle of fish (or can of worms, depending on how you look at it, I guess!) Seam placement is ultimately at the discretion of the fabricator. I know it is not a really popular point of view, but that is just the way it is. There really is more to deciding where the seam would go than just the size of the slab or where the seam would look best in the kitchen.

    Most stone installations will have seams. They are unavoidable in medium or large sized kitchens. One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum. It seems that a good book could be written about seams, their quality, and their placementand still you will have some information that will be omitted! For something as seemingly simple as joining two pieces of stone, seams have evolved into their own universe of complexity far beyond what anybody should have fair cause to expect!

  • Factors determining seam placement:

    • The slab: size, color, veining, structure (fissures, strength of the material an other characteristics of the stone)

    • Transport to the job site: Will the fabricated pieces fit on whatever vehicle and A-frames he has available

    • Access to the job site: Is the house on stilts? (common in coastal areas) How will the installers get the pieces to where they need to go? Will the tops fit in the service elevator if the apartment is on the 10th floor? Do the installers need to turn tight corners to get to the kitchen? There could be 101 factors that will influence seam placement here alone.

    • Placement and size of undermount (or other) cut-outs. Some fabricators like to put seams in undermount sinks, some do not. We, for instance will do it if absolutely necessary, and have done so with great success, but will not do so as general practice. We do like to put seams in the middle of drop-in appliances and cut-outs and this is a great choice for appearances and ease of installation.

    • Location of the cabinets: Do the pieces need to go in between tall cabinets with finished sides? Do the pieces need to slide in under appliance garages or other cabinetry? How far do the upper cabinets hang over? Is there enough clearance between the vent hood and other cabinets? Again the possibilities are endless and would depend on each individual kitchen lay-out and - ultimately -

    • Install-ability of the fabricated pieces: Will that odd angle hold up to being moved and turned around to get on the peninsula if there is no seam in it? Will the extra large sink cut-out stay intact if we hold the piece flat and at a 45 degree angle to slide it in between those two tall towers? Again, 1,001 combinations of cabinetry and material choices will come into play on this question.

    You can ask your fabricator to put a seam at a certain location and most likely he will oblige, but if he disagrees with you, it is not (always) out of spite or laziness. Check on your fabricator's seams by going to actual kitchens he has installed. Do not trust what you see in a showroom as sole testament to your fabricator's ability to do seams.

    With modern glues and seaming methods, a seam could successfully be put anywhere in an installation without compromising the strength or integrity of the stone. If a seam is done well, there is - in theory - no "wrong" location for it. A reputable fabricator will also try to keep the number of seams in any installation to a minimum. It is not acceptable, for instance to have a seam in each corner, or at each point where the counter changes direction, like on an angled peninsula.

    Long or unusually large pieces are often done if they can fit in the constraints of a slab. Slabs as a rule of thumb will average at about 110"x65". There are bigger slabs and quite often smaller ones too. Check with the fabricator or the slab yard. They will be more than happy to tell you the different sizes of slabs they have available. Note, though, that the larger the slabs, the smaller the selection of possible colors. Slab sizes would depend in part on the capabilities of the quarry, integrity of the material or the capabilities of the machinery at the finishing plant. We have had slabs as wide as 75" and as long as 130" before, but those are monsters and not always readily available.

  • Generally, it is not a good idea to seam over a DW because there's no support for the granite, and anything heavy placed at or near the seam would stress the stone, possibly breaking it.

  • Rodding is another issue where a tremendous amount of mis-information and scary stories exist: The main purpose for rodding stone would be to add integrity to the material around cut-outs. This is primarily for transport and installation and serves no real purpose once the stone is secured and fully supported on the cabinets. It would also depend on the material. A fabricator would be more likely to rod Ubatuba than he would Black Galaxy, for instance. The flaky and delicate materials prone to fissures would be prime candidates for rodding. Rodding is basically when a fabricator cuts slots in the back of the stone and embeds steel or fiberglass rods with epoxy in the slots in the stone. You will not see this from the top or front of the installation. This is an "insurance policy" created by the fabricator to make sure that the stone tops make it to your cabinets all in one piece

  • Edges: The more rounded an edge is, the more stable it would be. Sharp, flat edges are prone to chipping under the right (or rather wrong) circumstances. Demi or full bullnose edges would almost entirely eliminate this issue. A properly milled and polished edge will be stable and durable regardless of the profile, though. My guess at why ogee and stacked edges are not more prevalent would be purely because of cost considerations. Edge pricing is determined by the amount of work needed to create it. The more intricate edge profiles also require an exponentially larger skill set and more time to perfect. The ogee edge is a very elegant edge and can be used to great effect, but could easily look overdone if it is used everywhere. We often advise our clients to combine edges for greater impact - i.e., eased edge on all work surfaces, and ogee on the island to emphasize the cabinetry or unusual shape.
    Edge profiles are largely dependent on what you like and can afford. There is no real pro or con for regular or laminated edges. They all have their place in the design world. Check with your fabricator what their capabilities and pricing are. Look at actual kitchens and ask for references.


  • Seams:
    One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum [StoneGirl]

    • A generic good quality seam should have the following characteristics:
      • It should be flat. According to the Marble Institute of America (MIA) a minimal amount of lippage is acceptable (1/32"), but conscientious fabricators all strive for a perfectly flat and smooth joint.

      • It should be narrow - as in smaller than 1/16". (I think the MIA stipulates no larger than 1/8", but that is pushing it - and only if the fabricator bevels the edges of the seam, almost similar to the edge of a stone tile. This is, thank goodness, not a standard practice any more!)

      • The color on either side of the seam should match as closely as possible. On regularly patterned stones like Ubatuba for example - there should be no variation. On stones with variation in colors or veins, the match should be made as close as was humanly possible.

      • Vein direction should flow. The MIA suggests a single direction of vein flow, but it is acceptable IF DISCUSSED WITH THE CLIENT to change vein direction on a seam if no other option is available. This would happen in book matched slabs - you will have a "butterfly" seam in this case. In other cases, the fabricator could put a miter seam in a corner and change vein direction 90 degrees. This is usually done with extremely linear veining like Bamboo Green, for example, but this is something that should be discussed with the fabricator and agreed upon by the client.

      • The seam on the finished edge of the stone should NOT dip in and create a divot in the edge. When you run your fingers over the edge, you should not be able to feel the location of the seam at all.

      • The thickness of the slabs on either side of the seam should be equal (or feathered out so that there is no discernible difference)

      • The glue in the seam should be of a color that matches the stone as closely as possible. Glue joints that are too light or too dark will show up something terrible. The idea behind tinting the glue is to try to make the seam "disappear" or something relatively close to it

  • Checklist:
    • Check the seams for evenness and smoothness.

      • Make sure that the seams are neat and clean.

      • Make sure that the seams are not obvious.

      • Make sure the seams are butted tight

      • Make sure that there are no scratches, pits, or cracks

    • If sealing is necessary (not all granites need to be sealed):

      • Make sure that the granite has been sealed

      • If more than one application of sealer was applied, ask how long they waited between applications

      • Ask which sealer has been used on the granite.

    • Make sure the sink reveal is consistent all the away around

    • Check the gap of the granite at the wall junctions.

    • Check for inconsistent overhangs from the counter edges

    • Check for chips. These can be filled.

    • Make sure the top drawers open & close

    • Make sure that you can open & close your dishwasher

    • Make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter

    • Make sure that you have the appropriate clearances for your appliances

    • Check the edge all around, a good edge should have the following characteristics:
      • Shine: The edge polish should match the top polish in depth and clarity. The edge should not be milky, dull, or waxy.

      • The edge should not have "waves". Eyeball along the edge. A good edge should have a mirror like reflection and be fairly flat. Waves that you can see or feel are not a good thing.

      • The aris (very top of the edge) should be crisp and straight, even on a bullnose edge. Once again you can see this by eyeballing along the very top end of the edge profile. A wavy, dippy aris is poor craftsmanship.

      • A good edge will have a consistent profile. It will not be larger in some spots or smaller in others.

      • A good edge should also have NO tooling lines. These will be fine lighter/white lines running along the edge. This is a mark of a poor edge polish, of a CNC machine that is not set correctly, and a lack of hand finishing. This is common when a company has only mechanical fabrication (i.e., CNC machines or line polishers) and no skilled hand fabricators to finish the work properly.

    • Run your hands around the entire laminated edge of yor counters to make sure they are smooth

    • Check surrounding walls & cabinets for damage

Miscellaneous Information:

  • More than all the above and below, though, is to be present for both the templating as well as having the templates placed on your slabs at the fabricator's
    If you canot be there, then have a lengthy conversation about seam placement, ways to match the movement, and ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seam

  • Find a fabricator who is a member of the SFA

  • When they polish your stone for you don't let them wax it. It will look terrible in 2 months when the wax wears off.

  • Don't use the Magic Eraser on granite--especially AB

  • Any slab with more fill (resin) than stone is certainly a no-no!!

  • When you do check for scratches, have overhead lighting shining down so scratches are easier to see

  • Don't let them do cutouts in place (granite dust becomes a major issue)

  • Granite dust can be a problem...some have heard of SS appliances & hoods damaged by the dust, others have heard of drawer glides being ruined by the dust

  • If you have wood floors--especially if you're in the process of staining or finishing them--make sure that they don't spill or drip granite sealer on the wood floors. Apparently the sealer interferes with the stain or finish process.

  • Suggested Prep for Installation:
    • Remove any drawers and pullouts beneath any sections that will be cut or drilled onsite, e.g., sink cutouts and/or faucet, soap dispenser, air gap, instant hot etc. holes, cooktop cutouts.

    • Then just cover the glides themselves with a few layers of blue painter's tape (or some combo of plastic wrap and tape)

    • If you make sure to cover the top of the glides and attach some of the tape to the cab wall as well (to form sort of a seal)and cover the rest of the glides completely with tape, you should be fine.

    • Usually the fabricators will have someone holding a vacuum hose right at the spot where they are drilling or cutting, so very little granite dust should be landing on the glides. What little dust escapes the vacuum will be blocked by the layer(s) of tape.

    • When done w/installation, remove the tape and use a DustBuster (or similar) on all the cabinets and glides

  • Countertop Support:

    • If your granite is 2 cm thick, then there can be no more then 6" of of unsupported span with a 5/8" subtop

    • If your granite is 3 cm thick, then there can be no more then 10" of unsupported span - no subtop required

    • If you need support, the to determine your corbel dimensions:

    • Thickness of Stone - Dimension of Unsupported Span = Corbel Dimensino

    • i.e., an 18" total overhang in 2 cm would require a 12" corbe; the same overhang in 3 cm would require an 8" corbel


This whole thread is chock full of great info!
clipped on: 01.22.2009 at 09:12 pm    last updated on: 01.22.2009 at 09:12 pm

RE: Now what? Crown moldings are 1/4' to 1/2' from ceiling. (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: buehl on 01.22.2009 at 08:17 am in Kitchens Forum

How many pieces is your crown molding? Our crown molding is 3 pieces with the middle piece used to adjust for an uneven floor-to-ceiling (or cabinet top-to-ceiling) height. The other two pieces remain the same throughout the kitchen.

We have approx a 1/2" difference throughout our kitchen, yet all our crown molding (except the 2 shorter cabinets) go all the way to the gaps.

The "Stock-S" is used as a "filler" b/w the "Soffit A" and "Crown" pieces and is the one that's adjusted to accommodate the different heights.


clipped on: 01.22.2009 at 08:28 pm    last updated on: 01.22.2009 at 08:28 pm

Infinite thanks! We are finished!

posted by: jaymielo on 11.17.2008 at 05:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

I want to send out a huge thank you to all the people who lent me advice, opinions and their experience in the last 2 years. I'm an eternally grateful! Pulling those last few things together proved to be very painful, but we are finally almost there. I'm sure some of you observant TKOs will notice the few remaining items to be done, but this is as good as it gets. Here is an overall shot of the space.


Details... The cabinets are Amish made of quartersawn white oak with miniwax Red Oak stain. The floors are quartersawn red oak with no stain. The counters are Green Mountain Original soapstone.

This is our nook. The table, which we had custom made, comfortably seats our family of four for casual dinners. We have two more chairs and 2 leaves which we can add for a little bigger dinner. The secretary in the hutch folds down and provides a writing surface plus a place to stash mail and odds and ends.


The kitchen itself sits behind the nook. The formal dining room is through the door at the end of the kitchen. I wanted to wine fridge and "real" fridge as well as the pantry on the edges of the kitchen so they could be accessed by guests or the kids without getting in the way for the cooks.


We have additional seating for four at the island, which is handy when we are cooking for company or for breakfast or snacks for the boys.


The faucet is the Kohler Simplice and the sink is the ever popular single bowl Ticor. I'm very happy with them both. You can also see our giant cutting block in this picture. For a while we toyed around with the idea of making part of the island butcher block, but I'm happy with the compromise we struck. The fridge an Amana French door.


The range is a Blue Star 36", which is dream to cook on. The hood is by Futuro and the backsplash was custom made by Artistic Abode based on some line drawings I provided.


The Micro is an Advantium 120. It is a convection so it serves as our second oven and we are really enjoying the combination of that with the Blue Star range. Our reach in pantry has custom made cafe doors which match our cabinets and a pendant light which matches the pendants over our island and in the nook.


And here is the pantry itself. It is small but mighty!


Thank you again to everyone who patiently contributed to my threads. Building this kitchen was a pleasure. I wonder if I'll ever get to do it again...


NOTE the round butcher block cutting board, LOVE IT!!!
clipped on: 01.20.2009 at 09:17 pm    last updated on: 01.20.2009 at 09:17 pm

RE: Sealing granite..... (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: bill_vincent on 01.17.2009 at 06:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

First, make sure it needs to be sealed. Take a sopping wet sponge or dishrag and lay it on the granite. after about a minute or two, remove it and wipe up any water left. If it darkened, then it needs to be sealed. Look for Miracle's 511 Impregnator or Stone Tech's Impregnator Pro.


The whole thread is useful.
clipped on: 01.19.2009 at 09:05 pm    last updated on: 01.19.2009 at 09:05 pm

RE: a 10k budget + 1988 kitchen + amateur diy thumb...wwyd? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: mamadadapaige on 01.07.2009 at 05:43 am in Kitchens Forum

I see a lot of potential here. The three things that stand out for me are:

  • Fridge is completely unrelated to cabinetry around it and projecting far too much into the space. -- possibly build up cabinetry around it OR move fridge to end of cabinet run on the opposite side (between cabinets and sliding glass patio door).

    Also, below is a link to a slideshow of some of my favorite inspiration kitchens in case there are some ideas there for you.

    Your cabinets look decent enough that you could paint them and put the money into decent countertops.

  • Island seems insubstantial to the space and very 1980's looking. perhaps remove it and replace with something larger (depending on what happens to the layout) or replace with an attractive moving cart.
  • As mentioned by everyone else, the light box has to go.

    I would think to stretch your budget the furthest that you can make the soffits work. I recently posted some soffit pics for other and am including them below.


  • Here is a link that might be useful: inspiration kitchens


    Ideas for soffitt!
    clipped on: 01.19.2009 at 08:37 pm    last updated on: 01.19.2009 at 08:37 pm

    I'm beginning to panic; too many colors?

    posted by: mbarstow on 01.04.2009 at 03:39 pm in Home Decorating Forum

    I am really stuck. Our kitchen honey-stained cherry cabinets will arrive in about 3 weeks. The floor is in the same color family as the cabinets but lighter. I would like Ocean Green granite which is on the dark side, but not almost black like a lot of the darker greens. I haven't ordered the granite yet.

    Heres where I am now stuck. My dining room (pics below) has a cranberry color scheme. This room was just done a year ago. The very next room is our den with blues, greens and mauve--done over last Sept. I dont know what colors to work into the kitchen with the cherry and green counter. As someone earlier said on this forum about the cabs and green counter--it has a feel of autumn which will not flow with the other two rooms.

    My original color scheme was to have green (counter), gold (cabinets) and deep cranberry accents (window treatments, bowls, counter accessories). Am I going in the right direction? In my head I am not comfortable. UGH!!!!
    Photobucket Photobucket


    clipped on: 01.04.2009 at 04:32 pm    last updated on: 01.04.2009 at 04:33 pm

    For brutuses ~ Kitchen and family room photos

    posted by: newhomebuilder on 05.26.2008 at 04:46 pm in Home Decorating Forum

    Here you go. :)








    Fireplace at Christmas:

    Shortly after moving in (mantle supports were suppose to overlap arch trim, with mantle sticking out a little. The way the carpenters fashioned the trim and mantle, makes the whole thing look too narrow.)



    Thinking mini blinds instead of curtains, dining room??????
    clipped on: 01.03.2009 at 03:09 pm    last updated on: 01.03.2009 at 03:09 pm

    RE: SW colors.... x-posted (Follow-Up #11)

    posted by: parma42 on 01.01.2009 at 04:37 pm in Home Decorating Forum

    Photobucket Tiskers, I have my home done in a majority of Blonde and Ivoire (upstairs in different colors). Most of these pics are from when we just moved in, so please excuse just about everything.

    The kitchen and breakfast are Blonde and the lighter Ivoire in the DR, LR and halls.

    The Blonde is a bit warmer, IRL, and isn't photographing that well. Bought a new camera (thanks to GWer's help) but haven't played with it yet.


    clipped on: 01.01.2009 at 04:46 pm    last updated on: 01.01.2009 at 04:46 pm

    Color charts (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: jeanninepc99 on 12.31.2008 at 11:12 pm in Home Decorating Forum

    By the way, do you know about If you had colors selected in another brand, that site will help you see comparable colors in Sherwin Williams' line.


    clipped on: 01.01.2009 at 10:08 am    last updated on: 01.01.2009 at 10:08 am

    RE: Remember my CL secretary? Paint it black?? Progress pics. (Follow-Up #20)

    posted by: chijim on 12.31.2008 at 01:31 pm in Home Decorating Forum

    Here's another look.

    EDDIE ROSS a blogger, did this to his.


    Before & After - A Stylish Secretary Makeover
    When it comes to furniture, secretaries are a New Yorker's dream. There's plenty of storage space, plus a work surface that folds down for all those overdue Thank You notes. Modern versions abound, but I prefer one with a bit more history to it. Take this Chippendale style secretary I found at a consignment shop in Princeton, New Jersey.


    I loved the shape, as well as its scale, and I knew it would fit perfectly in my bedroom. What I didn't love was the red mahogany tone of the veneer. It just looked dated...and dusty! These pieces were mass produced back in the 20s and 30s, so the finish really wasn't that precious. All wood, you know, isn't created equal, especially when it's a veneer! A fresh coat of paint would take care of that. The other thing I loved about it was the fretwork pattern on the doors, but if you're like me, you don't always want to display your business for the world to see. (Just most of the time!) Replacing the glass with mirror would be the perfect solution.


    When the next weekend rolled around, I headed up to the roof, dismantled the secretary and got to work. As you can see, I started by sanding it down with a fine sand paper, just to scuff up the surface and give the paint something to adhere to. For the primer, I used a shellac-based product called Zinsser. I love it because it dries super fast. And it prevents any dye from seeping through the top coat. Check out the final result!


    For the paint color, I chose one of my favorites: Farrow & Ball's All White. I use it on everything. The mirror I had cut to size for $20. The easiest way is to take the original glass with you. That way, you'll always get a perfect fit. With the shelves now hidden behind mirror, I could make all the mess I want, and it would still look just as pretty! Fold down the desk, and I have plenty of storage, plus the perfect surface for writing letters or working on my laptop.


    As a collector, one thing I've learned over the years is to be fearless. Just because something'€™s antique doesn'€™t mean it's precious. Don't be afraid to alter a piece to make it your own. Strip it. Sand it. Recover it in fabric you adore. Like I said, all wood is not created equal. If a chair's lines are good but you're not in love with the finish, paint it another color and you'€™ll probably be much happier with the result. I know I am.


    clipped on: 12.31.2008 at 11:01 pm    last updated on: 12.31.2008 at 11:01 pm

    RE: Our kitchen is finished (Follow-Up #19)

    posted by: bayou_cityzens on 12.28.2008 at 06:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Hi Eileen:

    The detail that you are referring to is actually a narrow ledge of about 5 1/2" that is supported by small corbels. It runs around the perimeter of the room. It was one of the details that attracted us to this house when we bought it. We only have one decorative piece on it over one doorway.

    The french doors are a project from a couple of years ago: we replaced a bank of large windows with the doors. Here are before and after pictures that give you a better look at the ledge as well.


    clipped on: 12.30.2008 at 08:14 pm    last updated on: 12.30.2008 at 08:14 pm

    Great new brush for cutting in-Styletto

    posted by: jkpita on 07.16.2008 at 10:03 pm in Paint Forum


    Painted 3 rooms in my new house with Aura paint and a new brush I picked up for cutting in. I have a pretty steady hand and don't tape or anything when I cut in. Have used a Purdy slanted brush for years and thought I would test something new.

    I am in love with a paint brush.

    the brush is called Styletto ( maybe the company is too?) and the tip is pointed like a triangle or witches hat. It was great for getting into corners at ceiling and floor, paints a thick, wide straight band- fast. I could not believe how much paint it holds and spreads. I usually have to dip quite often for more paint, but with this one I could paint a good 10-12" line at a time.

    I did have a problem with it dripping paint in the first room, but then I checked the website and figured out it was my technique to blame. I was using the same angle on the brush and then it would fill with paint on the other side and drip. Not sure if that makes sense. Anyway, I should have been flipping the brush and changing sides until the paint ran out before dipping again. Once I got the hang of that it was a beautiful thing.

    I am not a fast painter generally, but can make straight lines without a mess. This brush allowed me to paint so much faster for cutting in, and I feel it covered well with no color peeking through or streaks, which can sometimes happen when your brush is low on paint and you try to stretch it.

    I found mine at Lowe's.

    I also loved the Aura, and followed the tips given on the forum. Covered well, used 2 coats, beautiful result, hardly any smell, dries really fast ( a positive and negative feature), nice thickness- neither too thick or too runny. I did use the Aura roller covers sold by my Ben Moore dealer. They gave a great result- no fuzzies, no paint lumps, very smooth result, even after being stored in plastic bag between coats one and two.


    Further down in the thread is a link to the brush, with use and care instructions.
    clipped on: 12.29.2008 at 08:42 pm    last updated on: 12.29.2008 at 08:43 pm

    RE: Benjamin Moore Aura paint (Follow-Up #48)

    posted by: nowstarter (Guest) on 05.02.2008 at 05:28 pm in Paint Forum

    You can get Aura paint made in any color form any brand. has the technolgy to match any color in the Aura perfectly and they show you the colors on the site. They also send you a small test can for every color. I like there color combinations from pottery barn best. I can't tell you how many times i have had to get qaurts at teh paint store because they dont have my color in a jar. MPC has every color in a test can!

    There are a few places to buy aura online but the site I like most is

    you can buy Aura paint in any color matched to any of the major brands:
    Ralhp Lauren
    Benjamin Moore
    Sherwin Williams
    Martha Stewart
    Pottery barn

    I would reccomend using regular paint for ceilings though since it is a bit more money. I hear alot of people talk price and how it should or should not cost the same as regular paint when it is all said and done. Here is my advise, Paint is the cheapest material you will ever have to buy in your home! If you are worried about the difference of $100 for 2 gallons compared to $75 for 2 gallons then go to walmart. Benjamin Moore is in the top ranking of paint companies and they had the courage to re-invent a paint to be better and it is. I know becasue I have used it several times.

    Here is a link that might be useful: myperfectcolor site link


    clipped on: 12.29.2008 at 06:35 pm    last updated on: 12.29.2008 at 06:35 pm

    RE: Benjamin Moore Aura paint (Follow-Up #33)

    posted by: dasinnyc on 09.18.2007 at 07:11 pm in Paint Forum

    FL this can be true with all brands in all finishes. depends on the condition of the chip, or the store that mixed it. The science of mixing paint can always vary a bit from the chips across the enitre industry. The Aura will match just as well as any other product out there. My advise to you would to go to you neigborhood store and buy a sample jar of the color you like and the new aura line has it's own collection of colors called affinity. The enitre collection of colors somewhere between 150 to 200 colors is available in 2oz jars. The only negative to this you can only get 3 or 400 colors in the jars across the entire line so you might be forced to buy a qaurt, this could be a good start. But I found a really cool site that let me purchase any color from any brand in a little can and I was able to browse the colors directly on the site and have them shipped to me within a couple days. I have never seen any company with testers in al lthe colors. They also had top seller lists by room and overall top 50 list. I found this helpfull and i think you might too. I can not stress enough how important it is to test before you buy. colors will often look different in diffrent lights. I like to say "the ocean is blue on a clear day and gray on a gray day" light reflects color and this is why it is so important to test first then buy. If you test I reccomend using foam board so you can move it around the room and hold them up individually rather then next to each other which can play trciks on you. this is also a great toll to use the foam borad to go to the carpet store or furniture sotre and lay your foram board next to what you might watn to buy. What ever you decide keep me posted and dont give up on Aura it is truelly the best out there


    clipped on: 12.29.2008 at 06:34 pm    last updated on: 12.29.2008 at 06:34 pm

    RE: Benjamin Moore Aura paint (Follow-Up #26)

    posted by: bobthepainter on 07.20.2007 at 07:27 pm in Paint Forum

    For those of you unable to find Aura in your area, try, they ship anywhere, and offer free shipping. Aura is not available in my area, so I have been getting it from them.
    Addressing some further comments and concerns...
    Aura is self priming, that is entirely true. There are other self priming paints as well. You have to realize what a primer is...its a "paint" thats main purpose is two fold, adhesion, and sealing. That being said, it does not mean that a primer is never necessary when using aura. Some surfaces are just to slick for any paint, and if you have one of these situations, i recommend checking out a product by INSL-X called STIX. Its a urethane waterborn primer that sticks to ANYTHING!
    As for drying time, yes AURA dries very fast. It uses acrylic based tints (as opposed to glycol based ones, which are high in VOCs, and also slow down drying time). For me this hasn't been an issue, since Aura's touch up properties are incredible. If you miss a spot, just keep going and go back to it, you cant see the touch up.
    Aura is NOT a full spectrum paint. However, its color is better and more luminous than any other traditional paint.
    My customer's favorite aspect of it though is the "Any finish anywhere" part. I am a life long professional painter, and with Aura, you can use a Matte that is a deep red and paint your bathroom with it and not have to worry.
    Previously i used mostly BM Regal, and Muralo (a smaller company, which in my opinion, prior to the introduction of Aura, was the best paint on the market), but now I will be using a lot of Aura.
    At first the price bothered me a little (hey, this is my lively hood, and I have to make money), but when all is said and done, aura levels off so well, its like a sheet of glass on the walls, and its great touch up just makes my work look better, which makes my customers happy, and that in the long run is better for business.
    I even contacted the owners of and bought a color sample of each color, so I can take them to clients houses. I have also bought quarts from them (not currently offered through their online venue).
    Its limited availability does stink, but since i can get it shipped for free(they offer free shipping), and pay the market price for it, i can make do.

    Just my 2 cents....

    PS...if you think its expensive, dont ever look into Fine Paints of Europe!!!!!! (Which isnt as good as Aura for that matter)


    clipped on: 12.29.2008 at 06:31 pm    last updated on: 12.29.2008 at 06:32 pm

    RE: Top Classic Posts from the Forums--Poll (Follow-Up #16)

    posted by: cella on 12.12.2008 at 10:20 pm in Home Decorating Forum

    I haven't been posting on here regularly for some time now, but every once in a while I peek in here. Lately I have read a few posts that had me laughing so hard I cried. I really needed that too!

    One that I think is on the discussions forum that was hilarious was about Brazilian Waxing. I had only recently found out about the way you must "stand?" to have that done, and was horrified. Reading the thread was horrific and kinda weird yet... I couldn't stop my self from reading it and lol all the way.
    A second one that had me rolling was the one on decorating the back of your toilet and all the toilet seat covers you can buy. I had to share that with my kids and they couldn't believe it, but also thought some of the Christmas one were "kinda cute".

    To dredge up old posts you can utilize the "Wayback Machine" at

    Here is and excerpt from an oldie but goodie

    "I am forbidden by law to shoot them in the city limits, and I can't quite bring myself to put out poison. So every year I sit and watch them very methodically eat every pecan on my large tree before they are even ripe, and drop the hulls and pieces on the ground. I have no idea what the pecans off that tree taste like because I've never gotten a single one. I loathe and despise them and do not find them in the least charming or entertaining. The only other garden pests that come close to irritating me that much are snails. Now THOSE I WILL poison. "

    Interesting to read posts go back and forth from saving the squirrels to not and everything in between.

    read the whole thing here:

    Here is a link that might be useful: Compost Freaks


    clipped on: 12.29.2008 at 05:20 pm    last updated on: 12.29.2008 at 05:21 pm

    RE: country french decorating help needed...:) (Follow-Up #4)

    posted by: brutuses on 12.15.2008 at 04:22 pm in Home Decorating Forum

    Here is a photo of BM's Rich Creme. A very soft yellow with no undertones of green, red, organge, etc. Very pretty.

    ceiling light fixture


    clipped on: 12.28.2008 at 10:27 pm    last updated on: 12.28.2008 at 10:28 pm

    RE: What design flaw irritates you? (Follow-Up #72)

    posted by: newhomebuilder on 12.20.2008 at 12:22 pm in Home Decorating Forum

    Thank you, emmachas :)

    patty_cakes - We actually have two regular doors that go from the garage to the outside. One was in the plan. The other I added (we used the extra 15 light from the half bath,) because our garage wall needed something on the opposite outside wall. We also added two windows. See plan below. That's one of my pet peeves...seeing a side of a house without any windows. We also added two extra windows to the bedroom side of the house (one in my closet and the other over my vanity.)


    It's really for the dog. lol

    teacats - Sounds like you have some major problems. I wouldn't blame the builder as much as I would an inspector. The house never should have passed city/county code without insulation. YIKES

    kellyeng - You might consider adding a swinging door to your laundry/mud room (like the doors that were used to go from kitchen to dining room, mostly from the olden days.) LOL They work on a pivot. We have one going into our laundry room. No more door shutting, the door does it for you! Even my dog can open the door to get to her water.



    clipped on: 12.27.2008 at 08:43 am    last updated on: 12.27.2008 at 08:43 am

    To paint or not to paint?

    posted by: debbiemarie on 10.09.2008 at 07:26 pm in Home Decorating Forum

    I am getting ready to paint my kitchen BM Decatur Buff (thanks to this forum in helping me finally find a color), we have bulkhead that is approx. 12" tall on both sides of the kitchen with can lights. My question is would you paint the underside of the bulkhead Decatur Buff or should I have it match the ceiling which is your typical white? Any advise and/or pictures will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks, D


    clipped on: 12.25.2008 at 04:31 pm    last updated on: 12.25.2008 at 04:31 pm

    RE: The wallpaper's off, but the glue remains... (Follow-Up #6)

    posted by: lenam on 10.08.2008 at 08:35 pm in Home Decorating Forum

    And when you finally can't stand scrubbing anymore cover it with a coat of Gardz Primer.


    Here is a link that might be useful: More from the Paint Forum


    clipped on: 12.25.2008 at 04:04 pm    last updated on: 12.25.2008 at 04:04 pm

    my pix (Follow-Up #4)

    posted by: kompy on 12.24.2008 at 02:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I just noticed that crash posted some that are very similar to KM...except thinner. But I'm sure, less expensive too.

    Here are photos of mine that I found:



    clipped on: 12.24.2008 at 09:56 pm    last updated on: 12.24.2008 at 09:56 pm

    What are your favorite sites to purchase kitchen stuff?

    posted by: mygar on 04.09.2008 at 09:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I love to see the posts where people list various sites that they like to browse or have purchased from with good results. I was hoping everybody would list them here so they would all be together.

    I'll start:


    Scroll through the thread for lots more suggestions!
    clipped on: 12.22.2008 at 08:47 pm    last updated on: 12.22.2008 at 08:48 pm

    Sad about sink

    posted by: lily5 on 12.21.2008 at 04:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I am on this site often trying to absorb as much as possible. It has been a big help! But I still messed up. I went with a 33' extra deep sink base but at the same time wanted the big Blanco single Silgranite sink. I have no idea what I was thinking. The sink is great and the santa ceceila is beautiful but I can hardly reach into the sink. I am 7mos pregnant now so I am hoping that the 6-8 inches of belly will make a diference when gone. I didn't account for the granite edge to be so thick. I know I had read about a similar problem from another post and should have learned from that. When they came to measure for granite I thought the sink would be forward another inch or so. I should have went with a 36" regular base. But too late as we already paid the plumber and we would have to buy another slab of granite.
    Also the single lever faucet we wanted with soap dispencer didn't work b/c of the thick backslpash so we should have tiled a backsplash b/c I only had 2 holes put in granite and now won't get to use my never MT. But I love my Delta facet with seperate handle. We will call to see if granite installers can drill another hole.
    One more complaint---Why is it so hard to find a decent plumber?! Finally washed a bunch of dishes for first time today which is when I realized how hard it is to reach sink and went to drain water it leaked out top of disposal...just one of many plumbing problems we have had.
    Just venting! sorry so long.



    clipped on: 12.22.2008 at 08:18 pm    last updated on: 12.22.2008 at 08:19 pm

    RE: What size for drawer handles and pulls? (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: cabinetbob on 11.28.2008 at 03:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

    There aren't any rules when it comes to kitchen knobs and pulls! It's your kitchen - you see it every day - if it looks good to you then what else matters?

    One thing to remember though is that eventually you may want to change whatever you choose. With knobs that isn't a problem. But with pulls having 2 holes to drill you will be limited to the same center to center (c/c) distance for replacements. Most pulls designed for the North American market have 3.5" c/c. Most European designs use metric 96mm (about 3.75") or 128mm (about 5") c/c.

    Here is a link that might be useful: this site has some very reasonably priced items


    clipped on: 11.28.2008 at 09:56 pm    last updated on: 11.28.2008 at 09:56 pm

    RE: When should floors go in? (Follow-Up #10)

    posted by: pharaoh on 11.28.2008 at 04:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

    This is how we did it and are happy with the process

    In order..
    1. Electrical
    2. Plumbing
    3. Gas
    4. Flooring
    5. Painting
    6. Cabinets, hardware
    7. Appliances
    8. Counters
    9. base molding
    10. Pendants, etc.
    11. still waiting for crown molding after two years.. will get to it some day;)


    clipped on: 11.28.2008 at 09:40 pm    last updated on: 11.28.2008 at 09:40 pm

    RE: Help ASAP! Granite installed tomorrow - undermount sink ques (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: buehl on 10.14.2008 at 11:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

    There are pros & cons for each type of reveal:

    • Positive--where the sink shows/granite is cut slightly larger than sink
      • Pros: easier to clean b/c you can see the gunk and can easily wipe it off (it only gets nasty if you leave it there)
      • Cons: silicone (caulk?) is visible, but if they use clear you won't see it when it dries

    • Negative--where the granite overhangs the sink
      • Pros: You cannot see the gunk buildup or silicone
      • Cons:
        -- You cannot see the gunk to clean it.
        -- Dirty water/food can splash up & under where you cannot see to clean it. It's difficult to see underneath w/o leaning way over & into the sink.
        -- Dishes have been known to break b/c when you lift them out near the edge of the sink they dish hits the stone counter & can break (or, if the dish wins, the counter could chip...but I'm not sure how likely that is).

    • Flush--where the granite & sink are the same
      • Pros:
        -- easier to clean b/c you can see the gunk
        -- no platform over or under for the gunk to collect
      • Cons:
        -- more difficult to do perfectly
        -- silicone is visible, but if they use clear you won't see it when it dries

    You will find proponents of all three types of reveals here...but in the end it's what works best for you.

    Good luck tomorrow!


    clipped on: 11.26.2008 at 10:15 pm    last updated on: 11.26.2008 at 10:15 pm

    RE: Double or Single Kitchen Sink (Follow-Up #4)

    posted by: buehl on 11.24.2008 at 10:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Double-bowl here as well. Our is a 1-3/4 style. The large bowl is approx 21" wide and the smaller one 10-1/2".

    It's great to be able to use the big bowl for stacking dirty dishes, etc. and still have the smaller bowl for other tasks...including air drying the very few items (like knives) we handwash, filling pots, washing hands, soaking flatware & utensils, etc. Our GD is in the big bowl. We use ours so often that we'd have to have a plastic basin in the sink most of the time...and the rest of the time I'd have to have a place to store the basin!

    If you have two sinks in your kitchen, then I think a single bowl would work OK for most tasks (except dishwashing...wash/rinse) since the second sink would be available for other tasks.


    clipped on: 11.26.2008 at 05:31 pm    last updated on: 11.26.2008 at 05:32 pm

    RE: Temporary Kitchen - any advice? (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: buehl on 11.25.2008 at 03:01 am in Kitchens Forum

    Yes...the electric circuit capacity is a biggie! Kitchens are wired to handle the various appliances, other rooms are not. Our official Temporary Kitchen was in the FR. In there we had the MW & Refrigerator along with the TV and every time we used the MW the TV dimmed. [Our closest water source was the bathrooms on the second floor!]

    When we tried to use an electric burner/hot plate or Toaster Oven while the Ref or MW was on, we blew the circuit. So, our Toaster Oven wound up in the LR, our hot plate in the PR on a chair (no facilities in there since it was demo'd as well!). If we wanted to use a waffle iron we set it up in the DR.

    We also had a roaster/slow cooker to make more elaborate meals occasionally (it was setup in the Foyer). At Easter we baked a ham in the slow cooker while we used the TO & other appliances for the rest of the meal.

    Oh, and b/c of the lack of water on the first floor, we bought bottled water in the 2 (2.5?) gallon containers (the ones w/the spouts) that was used for cooking & drinking. (Dishwashing was upstairs.)

    For more ideas, check the article in the Kitchens Forum FAQ linked below.

    Here is a link that might be useful: How to Survive a Kitchen Remodel - The Temporary Kitchen


    clipped on: 11.25.2008 at 03:16 pm    last updated on: 11.25.2008 at 03:16 pm

    RE: does anyone have glass cabinets that are not clear? (Follow-Up #17)

    posted by: jodi_in_so_calif on 08.13.2008 at 04:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Here is Reeded glass cut on the horizontal.


    Also, here is a chart of some glass styles from Feather River Doors. It really helped me with my glass decision.

    Samples of glass types



    clipped on: 11.23.2008 at 04:44 pm    last updated on: 11.23.2008 at 04:44 pm

    RE: What to put in double-sided glass cabinets? (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: rmlanza on 10.22.2008 at 09:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I put mostly crystal and glass in mine. I have seeded glass and glass shelves as well. I do have a few colorful aluminum cups and a martini shaker in there but I really wanted to keep an open look. The end of mine is not glass...wish it was!



    clipped on: 11.23.2008 at 04:35 pm    last updated on: 11.23.2008 at 04:35 pm

    RE: Sink Decision (stainless or Silgranit) (Follow-Up #33)

    posted by: abwhitney on 08.03.2008 at 09:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I'm a bit late to the party, but I thought I'd mention that we are getting the 1-1/2 silgranite anthracite bowl. I noticed this post and thought I'd mention that the left side is huge and great for washing a baby if needed (my wife loves this idea).

    As for purchase place, we've bought through FaucetDepot and got prices almost $150 less than our local kitchen plumbing retailer. We also got their matching cutting board and other sink parts there. I called instead of ordering online and negotiated even lower prices than their online prices. just be prepared to have links to sites that show it cheaper (except amazon).


    clipped on: 11.22.2008 at 03:21 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2008 at 03:22 pm

    RE: Sink Decision (stainless or Silgranit) (Follow-Up #36)

    posted by: neesie on 08.29.2008 at 03:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I'm finally able to post a picture of my blanco silgranit in biscuit color. Staining has not been an issue. We are a very active family (of 5) and this sink is not babied at all. Besides dish soap, I use barkeepers friend on it about once a week. Even my husband loves this sink.

    Here is a link that might be useful: blanco silgranit in biscuit color


    clipped on: 11.22.2008 at 03:21 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2008 at 03:21 pm

    My Cabinet Touchup Process for Minor Nicks and Flaws

    posted by: lmalm53 on 11.19.2008 at 04:34 am in Kitchens Forum

    I was asked by nomorebluekitchen to write up something about my process for touching up my old cabinets and to include some before and after pictures. Let me preface this by saying emphatically that I am NOT a refinisher and really have just been using trial and error to find something that works on minor nicks and water damage on the cabinet finish. In fact I would still like to know if there isn't some kind of final finish or wax that I should be applying to help keep my touchups protected from future moisture. But at least the touchups I did almost 6 months ago still look like new.

    Please be aware that I have used this process only on natural solid wood cabinets that have been stained, not painted. This may not work on laminate surfaces or composite woods. If anyone out there has more experience with this type of repair, please add your input also. This is the process I used.

    First off, my 19 year old dark cherry cabinets were in need of a good cleaning. I have read some negative posts about using any kind of oil soap on cabinets, but I have had no problems using Murphy's Oil soap for cleaning up greasy spots. I just dilute a small amount of the soap in a pail of warm water and using a soft microfiber cloth I clean up the cabinets. If I have any tough dried on gunk, I gently clean it off using a piece of 0000 fine steel wool.

    After drying with a soft cloth I then like to put a little Orange Glo furniture cleaner and polish on a clean white cloth and further clean and polish up the wood finish. At this point I carefully inspect for signs of wear, worn finish or nicks in the wood. You will be surprised how much you thought was damage turns out to have just been dirt or specks that easily clean off. Be sure to open up all the drawers and cabinet doors where there is often damage to the finish just inside the doors. I use my Minwax Stain Marker pen which matches my cabinet color perfectly. (I use 225 red mahogany)

    Using the stain pen I just start filling in the damaged spots. Sort of like filling in the lines in a coloring book. :) I apply the stain generously, wipe up any excess with a paper towel and then let it sit for awhile. You could probably let it sit for a few hours or overnight, but I get impatient and tend to move from one cabinet to another with the cleanup and touchup process then work back to the first cabinet again to check the stain and see if I need to apply a little more.

    Once I am satisfied that I have done my best touching up any damage, I then like to get another clean soft microfiber cloth to buff up the cabinet faces. Some of the stain will come off on your cloth, but in most cases the areas of damaged finish will have absorbed enough stain to improve the cosmetic look greatly. If you need to reapply some stain in especially large damaged areas, I would let the stain sit longer before you buff it out.

    Now this is where I am probably missing a step, because it seems logically there should be some kind of finish coat or preservative put on the cabinets to keep them protected. But I have not added anything yet after buffing out the stain. Since most of my cabinet finish was in good shape I couldn't see the need to apply any all over sealer, but I guess a real refinisher would use something to seal the damaged areas. I am hoping my stain doesn't all come off the next time I deep clean the cabinets!

    So...buyer beware!... but I was asked to explain how I do it so this is it. Here are some pics if it helps to see the types of damage that can be greatly improved without going to a lot of expense and trouble.

    Here are the touchup supplies I use:



    And here are some before and after pictures:

    Small Cabinet Drawer Face Before Touchup

    After Touchup

    Cabinet Center Panel Before Touchup

    After Touchup of Center Panel only

    Whole Cabinet after Hardware Removed and Before Touchup

    After Touchup and New Hardware installed

    I will say that there are some types of damage that this process cannot repair. I have yet to figure out what I will do with my laundry room cabinet that has had so much water damage that the finish has turned a milky white in places. I suspect in that case I may need to strip the old finish down to the raw wood, restain and reseal completely. That will be a project I will tackle after I have done some more research!

    But for now here is my updated kitchen. I saved a lot by keeping the 19 year old cabinets and by touching them up myself, instead of having them professionally refaced or refinished. Only time will tell how long my process holds up, but at this point I feel it was worth it! Most of my guests think the cabinets are brand new.

    Hope this is helpful to someone. I am sure there are others who can improve on my methods, so please add your comments.


    clipped on: 11.19.2008 at 07:04 am    last updated on: 11.19.2008 at 07:05 am