Clippings by tina_ma

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

RE: Supervising the experts - backer board install (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: mongoct on 11.24.2011 at 11:03 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Sarah, the other kids are pretty much spot-on.

First, the gap between the framing and the tub flange: When the cement board goes on, the face of the cement board needs to at least be even with, or even slightly proud of, the tub flange. What you want is for the cement board to be held slightly above the lip of the tub flange. The tile will hang past the bottom of the cement board, it'll go over the tub flange, and be held just off the tub deck.

So: Installing the tub...I'd look at the manufacturer's installation instructions and make sure the tub was properly set. Ledger board? No ledger board? Cast iron or plastic/acrylic/fiberglass? Some get set in mortar beds, some just get adhered to the floor with construction adhesive. But also check out the detail for fastening the tub flange to the wall framing.

For the barrier behind the cement board, use either horizontally lapped tar paper, or 6-mil polyethylene plastic sheeting.

For a topical barrier (should you go that route instead), you can use roll-ons like Hydroban or RedGard, or a sheet membrane like Kerdi, which dsegn mentioned.

FWIW, you may as well read up on the installation instructions for the hardie board.

The gap between framing and the tub flange could create problems. Excessive tub movement, "creaking" sounds when weight is shifted in the tub, cracking of the flange, etc.

So yes, your idea to furr out the studs is right on the money, make sure the gap gets filed in so there is proper contact between the tub flange and the wall framing.

Do not let them hang the hardie on the studs and float it over the face of the tub flange, so you end up with an air gap between the hardie and the stud down by the tub flange. That "kick out" will throw your tiling off and could cause integrity problems with the wall down the road.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 03.06.2012 at 04:52 pm    last updated on: 03.06.2012 at 04:53 pm

RE: Looking for high-quality curved double shower curtain rod (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: VDUBAUDI on 01.30.2012 at 10:00 am in Bathrooms Forum

So, I found the original crescent rod on vintage tub .com. I ordered two as I want a double setup. All good reviews on there too (vast majority of them were). So, I'll take your and their word for it. Anxious to do this!

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 02.26.2012 at 03:21 pm    last updated on: 02.26.2012 at 03:21 pm

RE: Can I have greenboard in a shower if it is has a mortar bed? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: lazypup on 10.01.2007 at 09:30 am in Bathrooms Forum

Both the International Residential Code and the Uniform Plumbing Code prohibit "Water Resistant Gypboard" (Greenboard) in a shower.

Rules for greenboard-IRC 702.4.3 UPC2512

1. Not over a vapor barrier
2. OK for adhesive of ceramic tile (not in shower)
3. All cutouts must be sealed with water-resistant sealer
4. Not on ceiling with greater framing 12" OC or greater

Rules for concrete backerboard IRC-702.4.1, 702.4.2 & UPC 807.1.3

1.Suitable for adhesive of tile
2.requires building paper backing
3.Corrosion resistant fasteners
4.All joints covered with water resistant sealant
5.Water Resistant material to extend a minimum of 72" above finished drain.

Some local codes allow an exception that will permit greenboard when using the "kerdi" water resistant membrane system.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 02.26.2012 at 02:48 pm    last updated on: 02.26.2012 at 02:48 pm

RE: Tile setter not waterproofing shower- (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: bill_g_web on 11.29.2011 at 09:26 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Ok, try "Rules for concrete backerboard IRC-702.4.1, 702.4.2 & UPC 807.1.3"

found it in this post reply by lazypup.

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/bath/msg1001473229573.html

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 02.26.2012 at 02:46 pm    last updated on: 02.26.2012 at 02:46 pm

RE: Tile setter not waterproofing shower (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: bill_vincent on 11.29.2011 at 10:11 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I'm not sure I understand what you are saying. Do you mean he should have used a vapor barrier behind the Fiberock?

yes.

Is this in a code somewhere? It is hard to find the codes on-line without paying for them.

yes. As well as in the TCNA Handbook, it will also be found in the ANSI standards (American National Standards Institute-- the book that governs ALL phases of building). It'll be found somewhere either in ANSI 108 or ANSI 118, not sure which one, but if you can't find someone local to look it up for you, I'll dig and find the exact spec.

And since he didn't use a vapor barrier, is the only solution now to apply the liquid waterproofing?

Either that, or take the fiberrock back down and put up the vapor barrier.
Oh, and does UPC 417.4.1 not apply?

Not sure what 417.4.1 is. As for Bill's link to Noble Company and preslope codes, that's 412.8 in the UPC code.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 02.26.2012 at 02:45 pm    last updated on: 02.26.2012 at 02:46 pm

RE: Tile setter not waterproofing shower (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: cat_mom on 11.28.2011 at 07:19 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We used Hydroban over our Hardibacker cement board before tiling--a brush-on/roll-on waterproofing membrane from Laticrete. DH said it was very easy to apply.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 02.26.2012 at 02:42 pm    last updated on: 02.26.2012 at 02:42 pm

Tile setter not waterproofing shower

posted by: dekeoboe on 11.28.2011 at 06:27 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Could someone please point me in the right direction? Our tile setters are using Fiberock tile backerboard for the shower walls. The Fiberrock was applied directly to the studs, there is no plastic behind it. They tape and waterproof the seams and corners, but not the entire wall. I thought the entire wall needed to be waterproofed.

If I want, I can apply waterproofing to the entire wall myself, which would be less expensive than having them do it. Do I need to do this? And if industry standard is to waterproof the entire walls, can someone let me know where I can find this in writing to show my GC? Thanks

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 02.26.2012 at 02:42 pm    last updated on: 02.26.2012 at 02:42 pm

RE: clarification on hydronic toe kicker heater (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: kaseki on 01.27.2010 at 11:52 am in Kitchens Forum

I have had Turbonics heaters operating for 20 years here in NH, so they do have reliability. I recently added two 6/8s under cabinets in the kitchen undergoing renovation. They put out a lot of heat even wired for low fan speed, and presently heat the adjoining living room area.

With a 4-inch kick space, there is some "breathing" when the cabinet base access cover is put back over them. I suspect this may be a bit of stall at the fan, so I intend to find a way to slow them down even further when I have time to experiment.

Pending addition of living room baseboard heaters to this loop, there is presently one baseboard of about 12 ft in the loop with a Taco 007 pump, I believe. They do not shut off during operation due to over-cooling with this setup. Furnace is set to a range of 160F - 180F, but can overshoot.

If there is a simple way to cut the fan speed, this might work for you in VA. With less air flow, cooling of the fins would be slower and the units might better match your loop's flow rate and not cycle excessively. Note that this all depends on actual flow and temperature of the water leaving the furnace.

kas

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 02.23.2012 at 04:06 pm    last updated on: 02.23.2012 at 04:06 pm

RE: clarification on hydronic toe kicker heater (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: tengofive on 01.27.2010 at 02:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

I would go with the hydronic toe kick. The 100 ft of pex is $32.45, the pump is $98.95, and the valves should be less than $100. I think even in 5 years you'll come out ahead of paying for electric heat. These prices are from pexsupply, which I highly recommend. They have toekick heaters as well. Also, FWIW if you're a diyer, Pex is incredibly easy to work with. I've hooked up several new radiators with it and plumbed my new laundry room.

Here is a link that might be useful: Pex Supply

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 02.23.2012 at 04:06 pm    last updated on: 02.23.2012 at 04:06 pm

RE: Some questions about hydronic toe kick heat (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: cat_mom on 01.14.2011 at 08:08 am in Kitchens Forum

The switches turn the fans on/off (could always be left in the on position if you prefer), but your heating thermostat/zone valve is actually what "calls for" heat. If you use switches for your kick-heaters, and don't flip them on, hot water still runs through the pipes, but the fans aren't on. There is some ambient heat, but it is not circulated without the fans.

If you opt to forgo the switches, your kick-heaters/fans would kick-on by themselves, whenever the water temp/heat reaches a certain temp (I don't recall if that is pre-set or can be set by the installer/owner).

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 02.23.2012 at 04:01 pm    last updated on: 02.23.2012 at 04:01 pm

RE: Some questions about hydronic toe kick heat (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: shanghaimom on 01.13.2011 at 11:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

Worldmom, to clarify, our units DO have on/off and high/low switches which I could poke with a butter knife if I really wanted to but it has never been necessary. I thought hydronic toekick heaters were always connected to the thermostats(?)

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 02.23.2012 at 04:01 pm    last updated on: 02.23.2012 at 04:01 pm

RE: Some questions about hydronic toe kick heat (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: cat_mom on 01.13.2011 at 11:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

To answer the remaining questions; ours is the primary/ONLY heat source in the kitchen itself. We lost our wall space for baseboards when we did our reno--cabinets cover one of the walls that previously held our baseboard heat, the other wall went bye-bye!

As for noise, we have no basis for comparison--we never listened to any other brands. There is no motor noise with the Turbonics, just the sound of the air pushing the heat out. It is audible, and does require a bump up in volume on our kitchen TV, but it's not horrendous.

(FYI, they do generate a fair am't of heat inside the cabinets directly above the pipes/units. Not the best location for food storage perhaps)

HTH!!!

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 02.23.2012 at 04:00 pm    last updated on: 02.23.2012 at 04:00 pm

RE: Some questions about hydronic toe kick heat (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: shanghaimom on 01.13.2011 at 09:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

Ours are Beacon-Morris. The rest of the 120+ yr old house has huge radiators. There is one under the kitchen sink which you can't see unless you are basically laying on the floor. It heats the whole kitchen on "low". ( Small kitchen but 10' ceilings.) Another one under the breakfast table, two more in the sitting area adjoining, and one in the powder room. There are always "on" and always on "low". The thermostat turns them on and off. Very, very quiet.

I love them--they heat up the room almost as quickly as forced air--kind of a treat when you are used to slooooooow radiators.

Our cabinetmaker made the wood covers because I didn't like the big dark hulkiness against the white cabinets. The Turbonics ones look nicer, if you aren't going to use a vent cover.

Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 02.23.2012 at 03:59 pm    last updated on: 02.23.2012 at 03:59 pm

RE: Some questions about hydronic toe kick heat (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: cat_mom on 01.13.2011 at 04:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have to run out but will try to answer some (if not all!) of your questions later tonight. Here are some close-up pics of our Turbonics kickheaters:

kickheater--pantry facing side.jpg

kickheater--sink facing side.jpg

First pic is the side of the island facing our pantry wall and the doorway to the kitchen. Second pic is the side of the island facing the sink wall. We used the black plastic grates supplied with the units--they fade away and are barely visible unless you are looking for them. They do (or did) offer metallic-look plastic (much like the silver pedal on our trash cab opener I'd imagine), but we opted to stick with the ones we had.

We have ours hooked up to switches seen here (had the switchplate made to custom specs by arnev.com--took a few tries to get it right, and DH had to carve out the back of the final version a little to fit the switches in snugly, but the end result is perfect):

kick heater switch cab

There are various options for hooking them up as you seem to already know; with or without having them hooked up to the switches, including running both (or in your case, all three) units off one switch. We mostly run ours on low speed, unless it's bitterly cold, and we want to jump-start the warming! :-)

Anyway, have to run, but will pop in later with more info.

FWIW, we are very happy with ours, and our plumber, who tried to talk us out of getting kick-heaters, was impressed with these when he installed them and tested them out.

PS If you do a search at the bottom of the Kitchen Forum page, you might find some older threads with some of my posts about Turbonics.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 02.23.2012 at 03:58 pm    last updated on: 02.23.2012 at 03:58 pm

RE: Best hydronic toekick heater? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 05.06.2009 at 07:51 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi,
I bought a Myson. You can order the optional flex hoses so that it could be changed out without removing the cabinets, which idea appealed to me. It is the middle-sized one which according to the chart was the same output as a 400 lb cast iron "boat anchor". The fan is two speed. The sound isn't tinny or annoying to me, but it is audible. It does a fine job pf heating the kitchen.
Casey

Here is a link that might be useful: Myson

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 02.23.2012 at 03:56 pm    last updated on: 02.23.2012 at 03:57 pm

RE: Best hydronic toekick heater? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: lesmis on 05.05.2009 at 01:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi Cheri127 we just went through this with our kitchen where we wanted to put cabinetry on a wall that had heater panels. We chose Turbonics heaters based on reviews on here and elsewhere. They were one of the few companies that had a way of recessing it into the toe kick of the cabinetry and then having a white/black/stainless/etc. grill choice that you could order separately. Our electrician is coming tonight to install the switches inside the cabinets (I didn't want the switches mounted on my wall) so I can't speak to how loud they are, but I LOVE how they blend right in. I can say that they were WONDERFUL to work with. I called the Friday before Easter in a panic because the cabinets couldn't be set until these things were installed and they helped me a lot and then drop shipped them directly to me so that I could get them faster. They are sold through Ferguson in my area which is Maryland.

We didn't know much about these and so when we spoke to our regular HVAC guy at the beginning of our whole house remodel he said "sure no problem I can get you those!" When the installer showed up a few weeks ago to install them I almost fell over! They were these ugly brown things with all of the knobs and controls visible on the front which would have been in my toe kick!!! I have custom white painted cabinetry so I said "no way!" They said they could get them in white, but the knobs and switches with all of that ugly writing, etc. would still have been on there so I jumped on trusty GW and did a quick search and came across the Turbonics. We have the kicksters because the room isn't that large and our cabinetmaker had cut out access panels in the bottoms of two base cabinets in case we ever needed to work on or replace whatever unit we selected and the kicksters were a bit smaller. He was so smart to think of this and he just put a removable piece of wood that is screwed down for easy removal. It creates a slight bump in my lower cabinet, but it's not a problem at all and will be so much easier if we need to repair/replace down the road.

Here is a link to the GW discussion about Turbonics and below is a link to their website. I've also included a picture of the grill on mine.

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg1213000920024.html

The grill isn't that visible and that's what I wanted!
sun on the soapstone

Good luck!!!

Kat :)

Here is a link that might be useful: Turbonics Toe Kick Heaters

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 02.23.2012 at 03:55 pm    last updated on: 02.23.2012 at 03:55 pm