Clippings by tightwaderin

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RE: Coloring kitchen floor tile grout? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: on 07.19.2010 at 04:49 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi Kellia,
My name is Ken Sherman, President and founder of This Old Grout. I thought I'd shed some light on your grout problem. You are correct in looking at a grout colorant to solve the problem.

Because grout is porous, it will readily absorb dirt and spills. These stains quickly become permanent and can spoil the look of a whole room.

Even grout that is "protected" with a clear penetrating sealer will absorb spills and dirty mop water and will become uneven in color.

Grout colorants, grout dyes, grout paints and grout stains as they are called, go way beyond the level of protection a clear sealer can provide. Further, they restore the grout right back to a completely uniform color and shade of your choice. You can match your original color or change your grout to any other color without removing it.

The main advantage of a grout colorant, apart from the fact the grout looks new again, is the stain proofing qualities of the grout after it has been color sealed.

Color sealed grout is stain proof. That means even if something spills on the grout and is left to dry, it wipes away with soapy water and looks brand new again. Now please don't take this the wrong way, but none of the grout colorant companies (This Old Grout included) work for NASA, and we haven't invented a way for grout colorant to vaporize dirt from the grout surface. :) Any dirt left on the floor after mopping will still be there when the floor dries. Over time the dirty buildup will cause the floor to look dingy. But there is a solution to that....DRY THE FLOOR.

Every time you mop, dry the floor. Puddles of dirty water are dirt left on the floor when the water dries. Even a good rinsing leaves dirty residue on the floor.

Imagine after you mop your floor and rinse it you took a big white terry cloth towel and dried the floor with it...would that towel still be white? I can tell you from experience that it will not and that using your spouse's good white towels will cost you just under $60 for a new set from Target. :)

Color sealing your grout is the answer to your uneven color issue. No matter what you clean it with right now, it's never going to look new, or stay looking new unless it is color sealed.

Grout colorants are easily applied. In your case, I would recommend cleaning the grout with an easy to use prep cleaner. The prep cleaner will make the grout and the grout colorant bond together in a way that it will not come off (10-15 year durability).

After color sealing, maintain the grout with a neutral pH cleaner and lots of water when you mop. And remember to dry the floor. Your grout will stay clean. I've been back to projects my company completed in residential kitchens back in 1997 and with a drip of Dawn dish washing liquid and a paper towel, I can wipe away 13 years of dirty buildup to reveal grout that is brand new underneath.

Ken Sherman
This Old Grout
866-OLD-GROUt (866-653-4768)

Here is a link that might be useful: Easy DiY Grout Cleaning and Restoration Kit


clipped on: 07.19.2010 at 11:50 am    last updated on: 07.19.2010 at 11:50 am

RE: Coloring kitchen floor tile grout? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: bill_vincent on 07.18.2010 at 10:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

Try cleaning it with Oxyclean, first. And not just a general cleaning, this first time. Mix a bucket of Oxyclean twice the strength of what they recommend on the side of the tub, with water as hot as your hands (with gloves on) can stand it. Use a scrub brush and scrub the joints, but don't use a mop to pick it up. Use a wet vac to suck up the solution, as quickly as you finish an area, so the dirt doesn't have time to settle back into the grout. Otherwise, the mop will just push the dirt back into the pores of the grout. Once you've gone over the whole floor like that, go back with cold clear water, and do it again, only this time don't worry so much about really agitating the joints. Again, pick it up with the wet vac. Once dry, those grout joints should sow a marked improvement. If not good enough, THEN start thinking about using a grout colorant.


clipped on: 07.19.2010 at 11:49 am    last updated on: 07.19.2010 at 11:49 am

RE: Help! Granite countertop installation this morning... (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: boxerpups on 07.09.2010 at 04:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi Galleycook,

What did your installer say to do? I just posted this
note to Shilosmom on the decorating forum. Maybe it can
help you too.


Hi Shilohsmom,

Normally granite is sealed at the factory but should still
be sealed once installed in your home.

I have Virginia Jet Mist honed granite that is known to be
a bulletproof granite. Statues and monuments are made of
this stuff. But, I still needed to seal it. I used SCI
from Homedepot. It came in a spray bottle. I think SCI (no
not csi ) stands for stone care international. Some brand
I am sure.

My installer told me I had to wash the counters and not
touch them for 24 hours. Then spray the sealer not over
saturate but enough that you want to wipe it down but
DON't. Let it sit 10 minutes and then spary again. After
30 minutes then I could dry the excess with a soft dish

There are also directions on the sealer products that you
might find at any hardware store.

My installer recommended I seal my counters once a year.
I know people who do it less. My neighbor has Ubatuba and
has never sealed their counters. They have had them for
10 years. I am not recommending this, just saying I think
some people do and some don't.

I have a family that is clumbsy and is known to spill
Vinegar, Oil, Lemon, Red wine (does not show on my
granite), melted butter, melted cheese, amd a host of
other products that could ruin a counter.
So sealing my countertop is really important for the life
of my kitchen.

Why should I be concerned about oil on the counter? Well
oil will eventually evaporate from the stone but it takes
time. Imagine spilling some car oil onto the driveway.
Yuck. right? Well I don't want olive, peanut, safflower,
corn, veggie or any oil to stain my rock. Even smeared
buuter. So Sealing can help protect the stone. What about
vinegar or wine? Acids can also effect stones. They
can slowly etch away. Especially a honed surface.

I hope this helps. If not check out those links and maybe
they can help you too.

Oh dear, I remember someone having a white ghostly haze
appearance to their counters from OVER sealing. This is not
good either. Check out that link. Not to scare you just
to inform you.

Granite was sealed and has haze HELP

About Sealing Granite counters

How to Seal granite from EHow

Granite Sealer a different product that what I used

Here is a link that might be useful: Sealing Granite


clipped on: 07.16.2010 at 10:18 am    last updated on: 07.16.2010 at 10:18 am

RE2: Help! Granite countertop installation this morning... (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: buehl on 07.09.2010 at 12:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

Now that I've linked to the FindStone site, I realize antique brown isn't listed!

However, for any stone you can check for the need for sealing by doing the "sponge test"...

Again, from Bill Vincent (Mon, Mar 9, 09 at 13:32)

"... the "sponge" test. That is, to drop a sopping wet sponge or rag on the stone, and allow it to sit for a couple of minutes. You then remove the sponge and wipe up any water left on the stone. If it leaves a dark mark, you'll need to seal it. ..."

Another way to tell is if water beads up on the surface. If it does, it probably does not need sealing. But I would do the "Sponge Test" to be sure.

BTW...have you read the stone information in the "Read Me" thread as well as the information linked from the "Read Me" thread? I highly recommend all stones be tested prior to purchasing so you know exactly what you're getting...not just the need for sealing against stains, but also how likely it is to etch, whether it's dyed (for black granites, primarily), etc.

Here is a link that might be useful: Read Me If You're New To GW Kitchens!


clipped on: 07.16.2010 at 10:17 am    last updated on: 07.16.2010 at 10:17 am

YES another White kitchen - pics posted...

posted by: threeboys2love on 07.13.2010 at 08:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

Lot's of hard work and here it is. What do you think? I was going for a modern country look. Cabinets are Thomasville, countertops are quarzite (a good alternative to marble for me),hardware is from Restoration Hardware, stove is Wolf, hood is Best, fridge is SubZero, slab behind stove is calacatta gold marble, lighting fixture is Visual Comfort... still waiting for window treatment and desk chair. Thanks for looking!


clipped on: 07.14.2010 at 12:30 pm    last updated on: 07.14.2010 at 12:30 pm

Any negatives to an undermount sink?

posted by: threegraces on 01.03.2010 at 09:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm in love with the double-bowl Domsjo for looks and for the incredible price, but I also really wanted an undermount because it seems like I wouldn't get all that gunk around the sink I get now. Eww.

Is an undermount wonderful enough to warrant spending another $700 on a sink? Are there any cons to an undermount?


Here is a link that might be useful: The Domsjo


clipped on: 07.04.2010 at 12:43 am    last updated on: 07.04.2010 at 12:43 am

RE: under cabinet lighting? (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: davidtay on 05.19.2010 at 09:59 pm in Lighting Forum


The first thing to do is to measure the amount of flat space under your cabinets. Typically, people expect to have lights on the full length of the cabinets' underside. Looks nicer too. I learnt this at a local lighting store.

You'll also need to figure out the various lengths of the light bars necessary.

Assuming low voltage lighting (12V - 24V DC)
The next thing is to plan out and put in the in-wall low voltage wiring. This is probably the most important part of the system.

At this point, you'll have a good idea of how many light bars you need, length of wire and total power necessary.

Plan where you'll want the transformer(s) - it (they) typically must be in an accessible location - eg some cabinet, attic, crawl space.

The transformer(s) will need to be wired to the standard AC current + control(s). Most likely, you need to have "magnetic" dimmers.

Parts list
1. In wall wiring - Ideal brand low voltage wiring (from HD or Lowes).
2. Ideal Plug disconnects (from HD or Lowes).
3. Lights - depends on how much light you want, total length of cabinets.
4. Transformer(s) - depends on cummulative consumption + 15% margin.
5. Inter-connect wiring.

Following is the ebay link

For the transformer, I'd probably get it from

E-mail me if you have more questions.


Here is a link that might be useful: environmental lights


clipped on: 06.27.2010 at 05:19 pm    last updated on: 06.27.2010 at 05:19 pm

RE: led ucl diy (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: jem199 on 06.22.2010 at 11:13 am in Lighting Forum

One more detail (thanks again, David!). When directly splicing the connector cables to the low voltage wires in the walls that connect to the transformer, tie the red and white together and keep the black separate.


clipped on: 06.27.2010 at 02:03 pm    last updated on: 06.27.2010 at 02:03 pm

RE: led ucl diy (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: davidtay on 06.18.2010 at 12:52 am in Lighting Forum

You're most welcomed.

There are a number of alternate vendors for the same light bars.

For alternatives to the above mentioned lightbar
Flat LED lighting
Electroluminescent lighting - usually monochromatic, but interesting nevertheless.

Here is a link that might be useful: Other vendors


clipped on: 06.27.2010 at 02:02 pm    last updated on: 06.27.2010 at 02:02 pm

Nothing left but the granite?

posted by: nishka on 06.25.2010 at 11:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well, after must deliberation we have finally narrowed down some of our choices. We have an appointment at 9 in the morning to decide on granite. Well maybe, that is if we can decide.

I am satisfied that the backsplash will be the Vanilla Travertile stacked stone with the rectangular glass tile accent behind the range.

The paint is Sherwin Williams color matched Perennial Gold by Freshaire paint. That is, unless I get up in the morning and the wall we painted tonight looks like the surface of the sun.

I have even found some nice ORB hardware. So what do you think? Obviously we are thinking of granite in the browns, creams and golds, but we still haven't totally ruled out some version of black but it is becomming less and less of a possibility with all the earth tones. Of course this is all up for change if we find a wild piece granite we just can't live without.




clipped on: 06.26.2010 at 12:31 am    last updated on: 06.26.2010 at 12:31 am

RE: decently priced natural stone subway tiles for kitchen backsp (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: kitchenaddict on 05.26.2010 at 03:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

Is this what you mean? Crema Marfil tumbled marble..Arizona Tile carries this for $9 per sq. foot. I don't have a digital camera, and this 35 mm. picture doesn't do it justice.



clipped on: 06.19.2010 at 09:28 pm    last updated on: 06.19.2010 at 09:28 pm

Over Our Heads SF

posted by: boxerpups on 05.22.2010 at 06:44 am in Kitchens Forum

Hello OverourheadsSF,

Here are some links that might help you.
You will find some tips to make it all look faboulous.

Painting oak cabinets a cream color Gardenweb Feb. 2008

Gardenweb Painting Oak Questions on April 2010
(In this link you will see photos)

Concealing Oak Grain when painting Mar 2010

A great link with Paint Questions non gardenweb but helpful too.

FKB (finished Kitchen Blog Gardenweb)
Painted oak kitchen a bittersweet chocolate color

Have You gel Stained? A GW post


After creative painting of oak



Lastly there is a fairly good search index on GW. It is
hard to narrow it down but if you put in Paint Oak you
might find a few more past posts that can help you out.

Good luck,


clipped on: 06.19.2010 at 08:50 pm    last updated on: 06.19.2010 at 08:51 pm

RE: Drawers over pull outs in Cabinets (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: lisaslists2000 on 03.02.2010 at 06:03 am in Kitchens Forum

I love my drawers. I don't stack things in them, except same things. For example off not stacking see below - I keep all my bowls - little custard ones we use for icecream, cereal, small serving, etc. in a drawer which I don't have time to take a pic of right now. Love the drawers.

behind the door baking

behind the door cooking


clipped on: 06.19.2010 at 06:46 pm    last updated on: 06.19.2010 at 06:47 pm

RE: Granite Install Question (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: boxerpups on 05.08.2010 at 07:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

Yes, it is normal for you to find your own supports.

I am just a little sad : ( that he did not offer to help
or direct you.
I think sometimes installers forget that this is an
"unknown" for many people having counters replaced or
newly installed.
They don't take the little extra time to explain so that
you as the shopper can help the counter of your dreams.
I know for me my installer walked me through every detail
practically holding my hand to answer every question.
I am sure this installer is a good guy just probably
busy and forgetting that newbies need guidance.

Here is an example of a corbel or steel support


hawaiiviv from gardenweb's clippings

wood corbels

Here is a link that might be useful: island overhang without corbels or legs


clipped on: 06.19.2010 at 06:28 pm    last updated on: 06.19.2010 at 06:28 pm

RE: drawer dividers, organizers, shelf liner? (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: bob_cville on 02.04.2009 at 01:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

I got some pictures of my new custom sized drawer dividers:


clipped on: 06.19.2010 at 03:34 pm    last updated on: 06.19.2010 at 03:34 pm

Hooray!! (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: amberley on 03.31.2010 at 02:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

FINALLY!!! It works!!!

Insinkerator Evolution Excel 1 HP (continuous feed) + Insinkerator Cover Control Adapter (to make into batch feed) + Rohl chrome extended flange + Shaw sink = running water and working garbage disposer!!


clipped on: 06.18.2010 at 02:21 pm    last updated on: 06.18.2010 at 02:21 pm