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RE: Tung Oil Tests on Yellow Pine (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: woodswell on 09.29.2006 at 01:35 am in Flooring Forum

The installed floors were done with water based polyurethane - and not even very good quality poly at that.

The worst floors were done with a "house" brand from Lowe's (maybe Olympic). Fortunately, they were out when we went to get the poly for the other floors and only one room was done with that brand. It is the only area under normal use that has water spots - which showed up quickly after the floor was done, but have not really gotten worse over the years.

The rest of the floors were done with a poly from Home Depot. I want to say the brand was Varethane Diamond Poly, but it has been a long time and I am not sure. The only place we've had any problem with that finish is directly under the water/ice dispenser on the refrigerator.

Even the area where the dishwasher flooded (TWICE) and the boards are cupped, the finish is good.

We have not done any floors with tung oil - I'm testing to see if that is what I want to use in a new house. The board that I put the half & half dark & regular tung oil mixture on has been out on the porch rail for a month now, with various amounts of rain and it has no water spots. I guess that says quite a bit!


clipped on: 09.29.2006 at 01:46 pm    last updated on: 09.29.2006 at 01:46 pm

RE: Best Floor revitalizer/touch up for Polyurethane..doggie dama (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: hamptonmeadow on 03.11.2006 at 12:11 pm in Flooring Forum

We used the Bona Kemi floor refresher and it is very very good. It does take out the scratches and renews the floor.
It isn't that expensive to buy a kit (cleaner, refresher and the appropriate heads and mop). Try it and if it doesn't work for you, you can still use it once your big scratches are repaired.


clipped on: 09.28.2006 at 11:20 pm    last updated on: 09.28.2006 at 11:20 pm

RE: tung oil finish on pine - any thoughts on maintenance? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: baton_rouge on 07.20.2005 at 05:17 pm in Flooring Forum

I have tung oil on my " solid red oak floors after having them stained a brownish red. I also had an "old school" floor installer/finisher. This was new construction. Most of the flooring contractors dont want to do the tung oil (very time consuming) or they have had no experience with it. I have had a lot of experience with tung oil, I grew up in my mothers ancestral home that was built in about 1872 and her floors have always been oiled. Her floors are gorgeous as mine are too. I would post a photo of my floors but as of now I am not comfortable posting photos of my home on the internet.

Oiled floors are VERY easy to take care of. When you get a scratch on your floor, all you have to do is apply the tung oil and buff it out. My mother never had her floors sanded, she just had a guy apply more oil with rags, wipe it off and then buff with a soft rag.

I dont think you will see many complaints from people on this board who have oiled floors complaining about scratches on their oiled floors. Most of the complaints are from people who have prefinished or poly on their floor. The scratches really show up on those floors.

I think your pine floors will look beautiful with a tung oil finish. Just be sure it is 100% tung oil.

Elizabeth Anne


clipped on: 09.28.2006 at 02:25 pm    last updated on: 09.28.2006 at 02:25 pm

RE: Garbage Disposal: Air Switch vs Regular Switch (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: akchicago on 07.17.2006 at 06:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

Auzzy - I too prefer a batch feed disposal. A batch feed disposal is operated using its own stopper to turn it on and off, so that no switch is needed in the backsplash or countertop. You push the stopper down into the drain, and the disposal operates; you pull the stopper out of the drain and the disposal stops. Otherwise, the stopper operates like any other drain stopper. The disposal is called "batch" feed because you put your waste into the disposal. then press down the stopper, and it grinds, but you cannot continue to push waste down until you pull out the stopper and refill. The advantage to that is what some consider to be a safety issue. It is imposible to operate the disposal without the stopper in it; therefore, no one could have their hand in there with the disposal on. Batch feed chambers are larger than continuous feed (the kind with the switch), so that you can put large amounts of waste into the disposal at once. I have a batch feed, and it is rare that I need to fill it more than one batch to dispose my waste.

Because a batch feed disposal has a larger chamber, you need to make sure you have enough room under your sink for it. Dimensions are given on websites. Batch feed disposers are made by Waste King, Insinkerator ("Cover Control model")and Kitchenaid. One other thing I prefer about batch feeds is that there is no rubber flange around the top (that the continuous feed style has). So if something like a spoon drops in my batch feed disposal, I can see it clearly and fish it out without having to slide my hand and wrist past a slimy rubber flange. It should also be noted that batch feed disposals are more expensive than continuous feed, but not by a significant amount.


clipped on: 09.28.2006 at 09:17 am    last updated on: 09.28.2006 at 09:17 am

RE: pine flooring refinish (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: marita40 on 08.11.2005 at 08:32 am in Old House Forum

I just had a 1923 fir floor refinished in my bungalow--the porch floor. There were several large cracks, as you describe, which they filled before putting on three coats of water based poly. It looks gorgeous. I'd be careful in having someone sand "all the way down" to make it look new. You want to keep the patina and simply sand out the scratches or dents to the degree that you can. As others have noted, no matter what you do, a pine floor is extremely soft. Dog or cat claws, dropping keys, etc. will all leave a mark.


clipped on: 09.28.2006 at 12:42 am    last updated on: 09.28.2006 at 12:42 am

RE: pine flooring refinish (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Housekeeping on 08.08.2005 at 01:53 pm in Old House Forum

Your house is considerably younger than mine so it may be different, but I was wondering what you meant by "cracks"?

Between the individual boards .....? Those cracks should not be filled as doing so may result in damage as the boards expand and contract over time. Nail holes and carpet tack holes can be filled with matching filler, though the job is extremely tedious to undertake.

I don't belong to the poly finish (neither water nor solvent based) school, especially on pine. Pine is so soft that I don't think it holds up as well as with a penetrating sealer, which not being a surface treament can handle the dings and dents a pine floor gets with more grace. Plus penetrating sealers are easier to touch up and reapply in worn spots.

I would take your floor guy's claim that "oil finishes are illegal" with a grain of salt, and certainly check it before ruling it out. Floor guys like poly.

There are a wide variety of proprietay oil finishes, plus the traditional standby of pure tung oil, which is what I use on my 165 year old wide board pine (not heart) floors where I have any finish at all.

I prep a floor by cleaning it rigorously, and try to avoid sanding as that removes the beautiful patina and color of an older floor. Pine floors freshly sanded and encased in plastic (poly finishes of any kind and sheen) look about as appealing to me as plastic covers on upholstery. I don't mean to be insulting to anyone who has done this to their floors; I know it is the conventional (and popular) solution. However, many people don't realize there are other attractive and serviceable floor finishes.

The one drawback to a tung oil finish is that once you've done it, I don't believe that you can subsequently put poly down. As I understand it, oil that remains in the cracks (and to some extent in the pores of large-pored woods) will interfere with the bond of the poly, even after sanding.

Keep in mind, too, that with the age of your house for secondary rooms, the floors may never have been intended to be seen. Paint, carpet, floor cloths of oil cloth and genuine linoleum may have been the orginal coverings. Plain, pine T&G was the cheap flooring option in those days.



Molly's post
clipped on: 09.28.2006 at 12:39 am    last updated on: 09.28.2006 at 12:39 am

RE: tung oil finish on pine - any thoughts on maintenance? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: jrdwyer on 07.28.2005 at 01:31 pm in Flooring Forum

For anyone debating the pluses and minuses of various wood finishing techniques, I recommend reading some of the wood finishing message boards that are out there. I like's board. This site requires you to register before using.

I will post a picture of my Waterlox samples on red and white oak when I get the last two satin coats finished and dryed next week.


clipped on: 09.28.2006 at 12:15 am    last updated on: 09.28.2006 at 12:15 am