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My New Medicine Cabinet, Pocket Door Hardware, & Pulls!

posted by: enduring on 03.30.2014 at 07:58 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I got my medicine cabinet installed on Thursday as well as my pocket door hardware.

My carpenter/cabinet maker did it again with the medicine cabinet! I will buy some plastic shelves at a nearby plastics company. I will install my LED light at the top inner surface. There will be an infrared on/off switch to operate the LED strip. I will put a sticker on the inside mirror to prevent infinity from taking over the infrared beam.

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My mirror. See my thinset stained paints and tile laying on the floor. I didn't get any tiling done this day:
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Lovely dovetail joinery:
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My pocket door hardware is Linnea. The little pull above the latching hardware is by Sugatsune. I got them both online. They were the hardest door hardware that the carpenter has ever installed! It took the skill of carving out a double mortis in both the door and the jamb. But they look great. I didn't want the door cut up to install the other kind, which takes a chunk of material from the edge of the door. This hardware is setback like a typical door knob.

Inside the bathroom door, with locking switch. The outside can be turned open with a coin or screw driver in emergencies, to unlock the door:
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Note the exterior mechanism. The latch is extended in the locking position. But this is not the way you use it. You turn the latch once it is closed, to lock the door:
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The locking mechanism and the pull that has no moving parts:
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The jamb section that receives the locking latch:
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Here are my pulls for my drawers and doors:
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clipped on: 04.04.2014 at 11:05 pm    last updated on: 04.04.2014 at 11:05 pm

What was your best bathroom remodeling decision?

posted by: ashlander on 02.19.2007 at 12:40 am in Bathrooms Forum

We're having a difficult time making decisions for our bathroom remodel: choice of shower stall, toilet, flooring, counter, and perhaps even a fireplace. This will be the first and only remodel for our bathroom, so we hate to mess up.
Would appreciate any words of wisdom or advice.
What do you regret? What would you change? What was your best decision concerning the bathroom?


clipped on: 10.24.2013 at 06:58 pm    last updated on: 03.21.2014 at 09:04 pm

What was your best / worst bathroom remodeling decision?

posted by: cruzinpattis on 02.13.2014 at 05:09 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I am in the beginning stage of a bathroom remodel.
I remodeled it back in 1980's with major mistakes. I don't want that to happen again.

Can you give advice
tell us what you love - best part of your bathroom.
What products you love / hate....
Plus worst/upgrade purchase you made.


clipped on: 03.21.2014 at 09:03 pm    last updated on: 03.21.2014 at 09:03 pm

Sharing my Bathtub Research

posted by: belasea on 12.03.2012 at 01:10 am in Bathrooms Forum

Everyone has been so helpful, so I thought I would share our bathtub search experience. The bathroom we are doing will have a shower over a tub and I like taking baths as well.

I was dead set on a cast iron tub until I realized that all of the cast iron tubs manufactured now have a non-slip bottom. I found out that this non-slip bottom is challenging to clean. I even went and looked in the showrooms, and sure enough they were all gray. My research on gardenweb and talking to contractors/plumbing stores also confirmed that they were difficult to clean. Not impossible, just difficult and I just wasn't up for the challenge.

I was very reluctant to go with fiberglass since our current fiberglass tub looks yellowed and horrible. However, I've been told they are built much better now, and we went with a thicker model. I also wanted one with a built in flange.

Next, came the height. I wanted one deep enough to take a nice bath, but not 20 inches high because it is higher than I want to step over as we age. Why don't more manufacturers make tubs 18 inches deep? Why are most 14 or 20?

We considered:
Kohler Bellwether - did not like the nonslip surface, but like the shape
Mirabelle Edenton - saw some complaints about chipping and not draining properly. I visited Fergusons, and the salesman did not deny it and said it was up to my contractor to test the tub. My contractor said he has installed these tubs without a problem, but it was higher than I wanted and decided it wasn't worth the risk.
Hydrosystems Lacey and the Sydney - both 20 inches high or higher
Americh Turo - after much research, went with this tub. Our contractor said these are good tubs, and the Plumbing store said another contractor installed it in his own house. It's only 18 inches high, 32 inches wide (also comes 30 wide), but has a deep bath. We purchased the non-airbath model. It has arrived and we're very happy with how it looks. Here is a picture of it. I'll post better pictures after its installed, but thought this may help someone else out who may be looking for 18" height tub.

This post was edited by belasea on Mon, Dec 3, 12 at 1:18


clipped on: 06.26.2013 at 12:09 am    last updated on: 03.17.2014 at 03:11 pm

Modern lines but reasonably priced bathtub?

posted by: ocean4 on 10.07.2010 at 11:59 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We're redoing our son's bathroom - he wants modern, so we're doing the large format tile and trying to stay with clean lines. We're replacing his tub (currently some builder grade type tub that has seen better days) and looking for something with rectangular, clean lines. However, everything we've been able to find that fits the bill seems to cost a mini-fortune (at least for a secondary bath). For instance, he likes the Stark tubs that Duravit has, but they're $1,000+. We don't care if it the tub is acrylic or cast iron - we just want something that looks modern and don't want to spend more than $500 or $600 to get that look. Does anyone have any suggestions for more reasonably priced tubs with clean modern lines? It would also have to be an alcove, skirted tub, 60" long and no more than 30" wide (it's kind of a tight space).


clipped on: 03.13.2014 at 08:03 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2014 at 08:04 pm

tub suggestion -- looking for flat integral apron

posted by: theboognish on 01.04.2009 at 01:43 am in Bathrooms Forum

Hello --

We're looking to redo our bathroom in the upcoming months and we're researching materials.

Our house was built in the '50s and we have a mid-century modern mixed w/ European modern theme going on with most of our decor and architectural lines. We're looking to go "Zen Modern" in the bathroom, and favoring a soothing gray pallete with dark wood tones. Not stark, but clean and modern.

With that said, we've been looking for a tub with an integral flat apron w/ a tile flange as we have a shower/bath combo. We're also cursed w/ a small space (5' x 7'5"), so we need to go with the intrgral apron to save space on width (eg. can't go 36" or frame anything out w/ tile).

We were at the design store yesterday and fell in love with the Wet Style BC 11:

But since we don't have 5k to spend on a tub, we're looking at the Kohler Archer:

It has similar stylings, would work with the modern look we're going for, and we like that the slotted drain allows for a deeper fill. The only bummer is it still has a ridge on the apron, and damned if we can find any integral tubs with a flat apron.

Our total budget is somewhere around 20k, and we're looking to spend a max of around $1600 for the tub itself. We're also going to go with the Bubblemassage version if we get the Kohler Archer. I do realize it's going to be nearly impossible to avoid ridges or lines on the apron with a Bubblemassage tub since we'll need access to the pump, but didn't know if there were any other options that might not be as apparent as the Kohler Archer.

After running across these forums a couple of times during our research phase, I found it a very helpful resource, so I was wondering if:

A) anyone had any suggestions for a 5' flat-front integral apron tub

B) anyone has used the Kohler Archer Bubblemassage before and had anything good or bad to say about it

Thanks for any advice, and Happy New Year!


clipped on: 03.13.2014 at 06:07 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2014 at 06:07 pm

Help Me Plan Rough-in for New Miele Washer Dryer

posted by: enduring on 05.27.2013 at 09:33 pm in Laundry Room Forum

I am remodeling my bathroom and a new Miele stacked W/D will go into the corner of an intersection of 2 load bearing walls. This is on the main floor over an unfinished basement with access to the joist. I want to provide a stable environment for the set.

I am planning to build a 2 layer plywood platform with "mass loaded vinyl" sandwiched in between. This was suggested by a member on the bathroom forum. He suggested to run a drain through this platform with a tray on top of the plywood platform to protect the living area from potential flooding. I can do this easy enough. I imagine this would raise the set about 2", at the most, from the floor level.

I found a appliance flood tray that is folded into place and is the perfect size of 24x24"

One would drill a hole in the pan and hook the emergency flood drain through this hole. I would have it run to a location and terminate several inches above a basement floor drain. This way I won't need a P trap that could potentially dry out, and allow sewer gases to enter the house.

I would like a turn off valve to manage my water supply to the washer. I do not want a flood if the water hoses should break. I have purchased, for this future install, a set of "Floodchek" hoses. And I would like to have a box with an on/off valve to the hot/cold water. I have seen Symmons valves and that looks great. It has an area for the waste water to drain as well.

I plan to have access to the shut off valve behind some shelving that will be to the right of the stacked W/D. I plan to have the shelving area easily dismantled to access the utilities to the W/D. I also plan to run my dryer vent out this area to the right, so I can access it for cleaning. I want all my supply lines, electrical, and venting to the right of the stack and located in the back of my planned shelving area.

Questions include:
1) should I have my shut off valve outfitted with one of those systems that automatically turn off the valves if there is a sensed leak?

2) do people usually just manually turn off and on the valve to the water hoses as needed when they do laundry? I have never done this in all my years, but I am seeing some wisdom in this precaution. Especially when the W/D is in the living area of the house, as this W/D will now be located.

3) has anyone used these special strong hoses called "Floodchek" for their hot/cold intakes?

4) do you recommend a specific dryer venting system. I was thinking of getting a metal wall box that the 4" duct can fit through. I have smooth 4" ducting in the joist space already to go for the dryer. The wall this set will be backed into will be a 6" stud wall. My plan will be dropping the dryer ducting down to the joist space below the bathroom and out to the out side. This is in an unfinished basement and easily accessible. I believe the total run will be 8.5' horizontal + 4' vertical+ 45 degree turns x 2.

With all this information, is there something I am missing? Or is there recommendations for something different? Should I post this in another forum?

Thanks very much if you've gotten this far in this post ;) and I hope to get your feedback :)


clipped on: 01.22.2014 at 06:41 pm    last updated on: 01.22.2014 at 06:41 pm

FAQ/Answers Bathroom Plumbing for dummies

posted by: sheilaaus122 on 06.23.2008 at 11:06 am in Bathrooms Forum

I hope this is not hijacking the previous thread of Showers- FAQ but I thought since Bill V had offered to answer a bunch, those were more likely to be tiling related. I thought maybe we should start a new one of plumbing related FAQ's and if we get lucky- answers will be posted here too.
I will start-
for a shower/tub configuration, what is needed besides the tub spout, the shower head, and the on/off thingy?
For a shower configuration(like the master bathroom with a separate tub) what is needed beside the shower head and on /off thingy?
And for both of the above, what optional fixtures do you like? (handheld, stuff like that).


clipped on: 09.30.2013 at 06:30 pm    last updated on: 01.13.2014 at 06:43 pm

What do I need to know about buying a toilet?

posted by: pschwartz on 11.11.2013 at 04:24 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We need 2 toilets, one oval and one round. Want to spend under $500 on each, don't need anything fancy...what are the main things that make toilets different and what makes an expensive toilet worth the extra $$?



clipped on: 11.20.2013 at 04:52 pm    last updated on: 11.20.2013 at 04:52 pm

Guest Bath Finished!

posted by: laurat88 on 06.28.2013 at 11:09 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Finally, our guest bathroom is complete. Here are the details.

Geotech Geogray field tile 12x24 and cut to 4x4 for shower floor.

Happyfloors Neostyle Chalk 12x24 tiles in shower

Vogue Bay Magic Glass in Tropical Gray - the big splurge

Aspen White quartzite countertop - found a remnant at the fabricator's shop so I (partially) made up for the mosaic

Hansgrohe fixtures in polished chrome

Toto Aquia dual flush skirted toilet

Rift-cut white oak vanity with a custom stain (natural with a black/gray wash)

Atlas U-turn cabinet pulls in satin nickel (yes, I mixed finishes but the chrome ones looked too shiny)

Paint - Benjamin Moore Green Tint - it is almost the exact color of the "white" part of the mosaic. The pictures make the walls look more gray when in fact they are slightly green (almost minty). The 3rf to last picture shows the color best

Starfire glass door - not a great expense since the door is so small.

George Kovacs light fixture

Still need some towels - I really like orange to make the room pop or maybe a chartreuse color. Also need some art work for the large wall you see as you enter and maybe a shelf to the left of the sink or possibly a hand towel bar.

We were supposed to have a curbless shower, but our GC talked us out of it. He is a conservative builder and thought it was too risky (small shower just barely meeting slope reqs) and didn't want to build it unless we used a linear drain and the expense was out of our budget. It was that or the mosaic tile.

Nonetheless, I am really pleased with it.

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This post was edited by laurat88 on Sat, Jun 29, 13 at 12:09


clipped on: 11.04.2013 at 06:25 pm    last updated on: 11.04.2013 at 06:25 pm

Photos of my almost done White and Walnut kitchen/mudroom remodel

posted by: tl1969 on 11.01.2013 at 12:32 am in Kitchens Forum

It's been a long, hard road, but the end is finally in sight! After all the hours of research I spent on this forum, I feel compelled to pay it forward. As some of you recall, I asked for advice on my floorplan many times and there were so many who responded, but I need to give a special shout out to rhome410 and bmorepanic who kept me sane and helped me fight my Kitchen Designer every step of the way ;-) Plus beekeeperswife, who chimed in many times with great ideas and kept me strong in the face of a ridiculous amount of stress and things going wrong on this project.

To give you a sense of how far we've come, this is the before shot
 photo GWOldBrownKitchen_zpsa2e2606c.jpg

And After

 photo GWFromCornerLookingToCooktop_zps1954fa00.jpg

And here is the kitchen from the West looking to the East
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From the South looking to the North
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And the North looking to the South, the grid windows in the sunroom were old, and I thought I could keep them.

 photo GWKitchenLookingtoSunroom_zps0ad26b5a.jpg

But, we just installed these panes of clear glass, from Sunrise, and they make a huge difference.
Daytime view of sunroom windows after panes of glass install photo image_zpse4e4cd3c.jpg

New fridge and microwave wall
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vs. the old fridge wall and microwave
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We have dividers above the oven for cookie sheets, pizza stones, oversized serving trays, etc.

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I put a drawer below the ovens for all of the GE Advantium Speed Oven's microwave and convection/oven trays, booklets, etc.

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Here's our first meal we cooked in the newly remodeled kitchen. Braised short ribs. The induction cooktop is such a pleasure to use.
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The backsplash behind the cooktop goes to the ceiling.
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The Ticor Prep Sink I have is a knock off of the Kohler Stages, and I find it to be a real great design, especially with the Kohler Karbon faucet.
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The Ticor built in colander with my garden bounty
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My Jenn Air Induction Cooktop has two bridge elements, which is nice when I want to use my cast iron griddle for pancakes, bacon, etc.
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But, the corner chipped off about one week after it was installed, and no one knew how or why. I contacted Jenn Air, and they explained that the only way they are responsible is if the glass shatters due to thermal damage. This corner crack was clearly not near the thermal induction units, so I was SOL.

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I decided the chipped corner was in addition to being ugly, dangerous, as it is very sharp. Since I did not know how fragile the glass corners would be on a replacement top, I opted for the Euro Stainless framed version when I replaced it.

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I actually think it looks even better with the stainless steel, so I am trying to focus on the silver lining to this $500 cloud of unforeseen replacement.

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This shows the 42 inch Side By Side Sub Zero, the stainless steel countertop and the two ovens, GE Advantium Speed Oven and Wolf E Series oven. I pored over A2Gemini's photo of the two ovens together, before I pulled the trigger and bought them both. So far, they have both been great!

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Closer shot of the glass display with my sterling silver
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The wine cooler has a bubbly chandelier next to it, from, which I love, as it reminds me of champagne and sparkling wine.

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I decided to take advantage of the few inches I had to the right of the wine cooler, and put in these liquor pull outs
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It is a miracle that I still have so many bottles left of wine and tequila after this remodel ;-)

Here is the cooktop wall, with seeded glass cabinets flanking the hood, and glass display to the left
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The tile is by Sonoma Tilemakers, the Vihara Annica Silk, 1 x 4 inch complements the Mother of Pearl Quartzite countertops and the walnut countertops.

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The Truffle Silgranite sink by Blanco also works well with the Mother of Pearl countertops.

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This the view from the Living Room looking towards the sunroom, the sunroom stools are a great spot to watch all the kitchen happenings.
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Close up of the 10+ foot long walnut countertop in the sunroom, overlooking the clean up sink and prep sink area.
Walnut countertop up close photo image_zps1b1cdb99.jpg

And here is the view looking out to the backyard, the windows are new and make a huge difference with the space.
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And the view from the kitchen's clean up sink towards the sunroom and living room, where I replaced the grid windows as well.

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In the big island, directly across from the dishwasher and big clean up sink, I have large 36 inch long drawers that hold plates, bowls, tupperware, etc. I love not having to stack them on tall shelves.
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The top drawers are full of organizers for knives, kitchen gadgets, etc.

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Perlick Fridge drawers in the smaller "entertaining island" have drinks, and the sink has a Reverse Osmosis, both are convenient to the bar area for making coffee in the morning.

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Pantry between the breakfast bar and ovens.
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I installed a Yellow Jacket central vacuum in the small island. There are vents to sweep up crumbs, under both islands, and it comes in handy across from the cat feeding area. The wood floors throughout the first floor are 5 inch wide rift and quartered solid white oak from Heidelberg Wood Flooring in Indiana.

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Here is the drawer where I put the cat food, treats, and bowls.
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The corner cabinet is made by and makes me happy every time I open it to get something out as it is such an improvement over the old bermuda triangle that existed in my old kitchen in the exact same spot.
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And the chandelier over the small island, close up so you can see the glass and the bubbles inside
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Before this side of the kitchen was a lounge area
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What an improvement! We sit here all day long, the walnut and white stools are from Overstock and are so comfortable.
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The Wolf warming drawer is in the big island, and is directly across from the ovens. I put it there, so it is easily accessible for entertaining. I wanted the warming drawer to be close to my waist, so I would not have to bend over to reach stuff under the ovens when I have guests over.

The handles on all my cabinetry are Top Knobs, Princetonian model. I have plenty left over that I am looking to off load, if you are interested.

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Spice drawer next to cooktop
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Before, I had a desk and a pantry along the wall that goes under the back stairwell.

 photo GWOldKitchenDeskPantry_zps58c138f4.jpg

But, I really wanted a breakfast bar, an idea I got from Mick de Giulio. That is what I put under the stairs in my remodel:
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Here is the appliance garage open with the toaster, juicer, etc. A marble sculpture of a pregnant woman, made by my late Mom, is on the countertop. I love having a piece of her in my kitchen! The cable boxes will be disappearing shortly, when I upgrade my receiver.
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The trash pullout has recycling for paper and plastic as well as standard trash in front. Next to the clean up sink I have another pullout trash.
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Charging drawer
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Bread drawer with pull out walnut cutting board
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My crystal behind the hutch glass doors is like art, I love how the glass sparkles, with the LED lights shining on them. I love having all of my Grandma's crystal on display. She would have loved it!

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The punch of color on my sliding doors is Benjamin Moore's Warm Earth and I love what is behind the door: my MUDROOM with radiant heat tile floors!
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And a utility closet for brooms, Swiffers, etc.
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Closet doors in mudroom closed
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And open, with storage on top and kids coats hanging on the bottom
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Pull out baskets are great for holding sunscreen, gardening gloves, mittens, etc.
 photo GWPulloutBaskets_zps802d9942.jpg

My stone countertops are Taj Mahal Quartzite, AKA Mother of Pearl Quartzite and are seemingly bulletproof. Taj Mahal countertops have cream, white, brown and gray in them, which tie together nicely the walnut and white cabinetry and the Revere Pewter paint on the walls.
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Even rainy days are blissful in our new space.
Even rainy morningare beautiful in my new space photo image_zps1fea56e4.jpg

Thanks for reading.

This post was edited by tl1969 on Sun, Nov 3, 13 at 13:07


clipped on: 11.04.2013 at 06:08 pm    last updated on: 11.04.2013 at 06:08 pm

master bath/closet for LESS than 50K???

posted by: spike_fl on 05.26.2011 at 11:10 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I've learned ever so much here and am very thankful to you all, but there is no way I'll be buying Toto toilets and 120 dollar can lights or 800 dollar shower fittings. I'd love to, but it's just not gonna happen.

It would be really helpful if some of the pros here would talk about the quality of lower priced stuff too. I have a GC that I trust, no problem, but I still need to make informed decisions about products. The toilet - ooh, those skirted models are gorgeous, and it really needs to conserve water. DH refuses to spend more than 300 on a toilet. Low voltage can lights are desired, but nobody likes anything but Juno or Halo or Luminaire or.... The GC says scratch-built cabinetry, I say why not modular? etc., etc.

The planning is all done, the tile and sinks are selected. The sconces are selected. The finishes are selected. The brands and varieties are bogging me down now.

Any thoughts would be appreciated!


clipped on: 11.02.2013 at 05:59 pm    last updated on: 11.02.2013 at 05:59 pm

DIY budget elegant bathroom, almost done: pics...

posted by: staceyneil on 02.02.2011 at 10:11 am in Bathrooms Forum

Hi everyone,

Thanks for all your support and advice along the way with our latest project... we're ALMOST done but sort of stalled. We just need to add the door threshold and some pretty natural wood shelves above the toilet, but DH has moved on to other woodworking projects, so those little projects have been shoved down the list of priorities. Since it may be months before I get those shelves (and art/decor) up, I thought I'd at least post some pics of the room as it is now. Forgive the crappy lighting: it's snowing hard so there's no natural light :(

Project scope:
1956 bathroom with 1980's/90's tile, vanity, toilet. Tub was original but sadly unsalvageable: the enale was totally wrecked and stained and impossible to clean.
Suspected some subfloor issues due to leaks.
Budget: $2,500. (final total was a bit under $3,000... so we didn't do too badly :))

The layout was awkward, the door swing used so much of the floor space and only allowed a very small vanity. Since this is the hall/guest bath as well as the primary bath for my teenage daughter, we really needed to maximize storage and vanity space. I drew a new plan which involved moving the doorway to the perpendicular wall. As much as my DH balked at adding additional work, he admitted it was TOTALLY the right thing to do once we finished. The room feels SO much bigger now.

OLD BATHROOM and layout:

Some photos from during the renovation... which was planned to take 4 weekends and ended up taking about 6 or 7.....
DD sledge-hammering the old tile down

lots of rot in the subfloor

Self-leveling-compound poured over the radiant floor heat cables in the floor

The shower area waterproofed with Hydroban (LOVE LOVE LOVE that stuff!)

~ ~
~ ~
~ ~
~ ~

NEW BATHROOM and layout plan:

Since our budget was soooo tight, and we wanted to use quality materials and get a unique, custom bathroom, we had to get creative!!!

I had a small amount (it was mostly random pieces and offcuts) of very $$$ calacatta marble mosaic tiles left over from a previous project that I knew I wanted to use. The other materials were chosen around that starting point. I designed niches to use that tile in, as accent, based on the quantity I had. I used inexpensive white marble baseboard pieces from Home Depot for the shelves.

For the rest of the tile, I needed to use super-cheap stuff (the entire room is tiled to chair-rail height), but I didn't want it to look cheap or ubiquitous. I would have used subways, but DD emphatically vetoed them. It's her bathroom, and we let her have a LOT of design input. Since we have other areas in the house that use square tile in a running-bond pattern, I decided to use 4x4s, which are the cheapest anyway, but in a running bond rather than stacked pattern. After bringing home samples of the big-box cheapies, I decided to "splurge" (20 cents more per tile, I think, it was about $2.35 per sf after sales and discounts)) on Lowes next-step-up American Olean Ice White, which has a slight rippled surface that catches the light and adds a layer of interest that the flat, cheaper Gloss White doesn't have.

For the floor, we used American Olean 12 x 18 Pietra Bianco, a limestone-look ceramic tile that I'm surprisingly happy with :) Underneath the tile is radiant-heat cable, so the floor is wonderfully cozy and warm.

Floor grout is Latapoxy epoxy.
Wall/shower grout is Tec Accucolor XT, a super-modified grout that supposed to be a lot more stain-resistant (PITA to work with, though!)

DD wanted girly, vintage-looking stuff, a big departure from DH and my modern aesthetic. We narrowed down the style range, then I started watching eBay for deals. We scored about $750 worth of valves and faucets and stuff for about $275.
Vanity faucet: Moen Monticello
Shower faucet valve, trim, tub spout: Moen Monticello with Thermostatic valve
Shower head: Grohe Relexa Ultra on slide bar (LOVE!)
(after working with a bunch of faucets recently, I can say that the Moen monticello stuff is pretty cruddy compared to the Grohe RElexa, Kohler Purist, and HansGrohe stuff I've used recently.)
Towel bars and tissue holder are Ginger Hotelier.
Curved shower rod is the Crescent Rod. I tried some expandable ones they had locally, but this one (ordered on line for the same price) is SO much sturdier and nicer-looking. It also makes the shower space much larger.

Toto Carolina that we got at a yard sale for $150 including the Washlet seat (which we removed). We were driving down the street and DD -who professes to HATE anything renovation-related- said, "Hey, look, Mom... isn;t that one of those skirted toilets you like?" SCORE.

American Standard Princeton ~$300 at Lowes. yeah, we chipped it right away by dropping a tool on it while installing the faucets; luckily there's a repair kit that actually does a pretty amazing job :) We used the American Standard "Deep Soak" drain, which adds a couple inches water depth for baths. I wanted DD to use her OWN bathtub rather than my new one in the master bath :)

an old dresser. We bought it on Craigslist for $40, and DH reworked the drawers to fit the plumbing. He also added modern drawer slides so that they work easily. We bought fabulous vintage glass knobs on eBay (if you're looking for vintage knobs, check out this seller: billybobbosen.)

I painted it BM Dove Wing.
We totally went over budget on the vanity top. I'd intended to bet a remnant of granite... but of course couldn't find one DD and I liked. Then we found this little slab of Vermont White quartzite in the "exotics" bone pile at a local yard. It was over budget but we loved it. Then, of course, we decided that rather than a plain square front, it had to be cut to fit the curvy front of the dresser... which added about $100. So the vanity top was our biggest expense at $480.

Medicine cabinet:
A salvaged cabinet we got at the local Habitat for Humanity REStore about 2 years ago. We framed it into the wall (where the old door used to be), painted it, and I tiled the little shelf area with my calacatta mosaic accent tiles and marble baseboard pieces from Home Depot.

Pottery Barn wall fixture from eBay
Ikea ceiling fixture (like $8 each and rated for bathrooms!)
Fan/showerlight combo is a recessed, can-style fixture by Broan/NuTone. It's AWESOME. Quiet, unobtrusive.

That's all I can think of right now. I think once we have the natural wood shelves up over the toilet, with DD's shell collection and a plant on them, it will give a little but of softness/naturalness which the room needs. It's a little TOO "elegant" right now :)


clipped on: 11.02.2013 at 05:58 pm    last updated on: 11.02.2013 at 05:58 pm

Towel warmer/towel rack questions

posted by: jacobse on 03.27.2010 at 09:19 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We're moving along on our guest bath remodel, and the master bath remodel is coming up fast. Today's planning issue of the day: where to put our towels, and whether to have an electric towel warmer. I've read some of the past threads, but have a few questions, especially for those who have towel warmers...

* Although I know they don't use a huge amount of electricity, I can't envision leaving them on all the time for just my wife and I using towels once each morning. I know they can be put on a timer, and I was thinking about a timer which just turns off after a pre-set time -- but I'm wondering how quickly they warm up? If the first person into the bathroom in the morning flips the warmer on, is 10-15 minutes enough to warm a towel reasonably? Or does it need to be on for a lot longer to achieve the desired warm towel effect?

* Can two towels hanging on the same warmer get toasty if they overlap on the warmer? And if not, how do people do it? The warmers I'm looking at have effective space of about 16" wide and 30" tall; a bath towel folded in half in both directions takes up about 14"x20", so it seems there's not enough space for two towels unless one partially hangs over the other. Or do you warm one towel at a time? (I don't think I have space for one of the really tall warmers which might resolve this issue; I definitely don't have room, or budget, for two towel warmers!)

* And the big question: after use, do you hang your wet towels back on the warmer and leave them there until the next day, thus making your towel warmer and towel rack one and the same? Or do you have a separate rack or hook where you hang your damp towels. We're ending up without a lot of open wall space, so having towel rack(s) in addition to a warmer probably isn't going to work. I've read that many people find hanging their wet towels on the warming rack dries them and prevents the towels from developing a mildew oder after a few days -- which sounds great to me. But if we'd have to overlap towels on the warmer/towel rack, is that a plus or a minus?

Thanks in advance for any advice, hints or experience!

-- Eric


clipped on: 11.02.2013 at 05:42 pm    last updated on: 11.02.2013 at 05:42 pm

Small Guest bathroom completed!

posted by: elk2000 on 11.30.2012 at 10:46 pm in Bathrooms Forum

It took us about 5 months, but we're finally done with small guest bathroom remodel. We got tons of information on Gardenweb. Thank you!
I regret not taking Before pictures, just visualize builder grade all white very standard bathroom.

The layout stayed the same, the room is about 8'x7.5', all new plumbing, electricity, window. We had wide 2 sinks vanity, and decided that we don't need it, so we moved the plumbing to accommodate vanity with 1 sink.
Still need to add some contemporary art on the wall.
Here is what we used.

Vanity, side cabinet and linen closet door: custom made
Caesarstone Quartz Countertop
American Standard Cadet 3 toilet
Window with privacy glass (don't want any blinds)
Linen closet: Container store Elfa
Maax Gondola tub door
Hansgrohe Metris S Thermostatic Trim with diverter
Hansgrohe Allrounder shower
Dornbracht Yota Chrome Faucet
Wall tile: Atelier Grafite with red stone listello: 10"x14", there are 3 types of tiles, darker gray on the bottom, transition tile (grey to white) is in the middle and top of the wall and white tile is everywhere else.
Niche tile: Stainless steel mosaics
Schluter profiles and Kerdi
LED mirror with defogger
Panasonic WhisperCeiling fan
PLC Lighting Swiss light
Hinkley Lighting Latitude
Accessories: Nameeks Bridge towel holder, Blomus waste bin, Luthron dimmer, fan timer, receptacles.

It's so hard to take pictures in the small room! I ended up doing pieces.
Complete album is here

We've also completed basement bathroom with sauna, so will be posting pictures soon as well.
Time to start kids bathroom. Hopefully, this one will take much less time.


clipped on: 10.24.2013 at 08:05 pm    last updated on: 10.24.2013 at 08:05 pm

Best and worst decisions you made when renovating

posted by: loves2cook4six on 06.29.2012 at 06:36 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I love these threads because you get so much collective wisdom in them.

The last thread reached it's limit of 150 post

We are starting an emergency bathroom remodel due to a toilet leaking while we were on vacation so I can use all the help we can get.

Right now our masterbath is gutted at the floor level and we are having to make some major decisions with very little time to do research.

So please help us out and tell us what you love, what you wish you'd done differently and what you think was either a waste of money or a really bad decision.

Here is a link that might be useful: Link to previous thread


clipped on: 10.24.2013 at 06:58 pm    last updated on: 10.24.2013 at 06:58 pm

Tankless/wall-mounted toilet?

posted by: wondercat on 02.20.2012 at 01:34 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Hi All,

We are about to start a master bath remodel and are considering using a tankless toilet. I'm looking for advice! Anyone have any expereince with this technology, what to look for, where to get them, what to avoid? Good idea or bad?



clipped on: 10.24.2013 at 06:50 pm    last updated on: 10.24.2013 at 06:50 pm

Finished Bathroom Pics (two bathrooms!)--very pic heavy

posted by: cat_mom on 01.04.2011 at 11:07 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I finally took pics of our Master Bathroom and Hall Bathroom. Both bathrooms are small (MB is 5x7 the Hall Bathroom is 5x8), and therefore, very difficult (nearly impossible) to photograph well. Pictures really don't do them justice (they really do look nicer in person!). A friend of ours plans to take some pics for us with his camera, equipped with a wide angle lens, so I'll post some of those pics when he takes them.

The bathrooms were pretty bad before (and that's being kind!). We stuck it out for over 11 years, rather than take any intermediate measures (e.g. to make them slightly nicer), knowing that nothing short of a full gut-job would help (and we really didn't want to a) open a can of worms by removing any walls, tile, etc., or b) throw good money after bad).

So, starting last spring, we embarked on a 6+ month double-bathroom renovation. DH did all the demolition and construction. We had an awesome tile guy and an equally wonderful plumber. We had to work around each other's schedules at times (the old, "hurry up and wait"), but, as it often does, it all worked out in the end.

We were very lucky to work with some wonderful salespeople as well: a special shout-out to Sean at Hardware-Designs in Fairfield, NJ for our bathroom fixtures--you are the best! And for our tile and marble, thanks to all the folks at Greene and Roth in Bardonia, NY, Porcelanosa in Ramsey, NJ, and K&K Marble on LI. The guys at The Paint Can in Pearl River, NY very patiently endured my numerous visits, questions, and multiple sample purchases as we tried to choose just the right paint colors. DH was extremely impressed with the folks at Nu-Heat (and now that the weather has gotten colder, we are really enjoying our toasty floors!).

For us, all the research, planning, and work paid off. We finally have bathrooms we can enjoy using and very much enjoy looking at. Despite their small size, they are more than adequate for our needs and we are thrilled with they way they turned out--hooray!!!!

I'm including some before and after shots here, but you can take a look at a bunch more in my photobucket albums if you'd like:

link to MB Albums: Bath room/

link to Hall Bathroom Albums: Bathro om/

MB Before:




MB After:







Hall Bathroom Before (don't mind the paint swatches/samples on the wall--lol):




Hall Bathroom After:








In both:

Tubs and tub fixtures: Toto 1525's, Hansgrohe Axor Stark tub spouts, Hansgrohe S-120 Air showerheads, Jaclo valves/ controls, Mountain Plumbing tub drain assemblies (?).

Crescent Shower Rods in brushed SS finish

Toto Soiree toilets w/ Brushed Nickel trip levers

Sonia sinks, drains, drain caps

Cifial Techno 25 lavatory faucets, satin nickel

Vanities--42" wide, custom made by a local guy (modeled after Sonia Europa vanity); MB stained ebony, Hall Bathroom stained bordeaux

Robern medicine cabs (M series in MB, 6" depth, PLM series in Hall Bathroom, standard depth); 30" H x 19 3/4" W

Panasonic Whisper Quiet vent fans


Towel Bars and TP holder: Ginger Motiv Sine

Floor tile: Atlas Concorde (AKDO); Glow in Cosmos 12x24, TEC XT grout in Raven (unsanded)

Field tile: Porcelanosa; Bari Blanco 8x20, TEC XT grout in Bright White (unsanded)

Mosaic tile; Porcelanosa; Moon Saturn Blanco (White Thassos circles), TEC XT grout in Bright White (sanded and unsanded mixed)

Trim tile, niche trim and shelves: White Thassos Select

Saddle: honed Absolute Black

Paint: BM Aura; matte finish on walls, satin on base molding, Affinity color Constellation

(shower curtain: Restoration Hardware)

Hall Bathroom:

Towel Bars and TP holder: Ginger Motiv Frame

Floor tile: Coral Peach travertine 12x12's cut down to 6x12", TEC XT grout in Almond (unsanded)

Field tile and Bullnose tile: Daltile Modern Dimensions Arctic White ~4x12", TEC XT grout in Bright White (unsanded)

Mosaic tile; Split Face Amber travertine 1x2", TEC XT grout in Almond (unsanded)

Niche trim and shelves: White Thassos Select

Saddle: honed marble

Paint: BM Aura; matte finish on walls, satin on base molding, Affinity color Handmade

(shower curtain: Anthropologie)


clipped on: 10.08.2013 at 08:21 pm    last updated on: 10.08.2013 at 08:21 pm

Over the fridge cabinet options

posted by: selena2010 on 02.12.2010 at 05:22 am in Kitchens Forum

I just had the over the fridge cabinet installed. It is 13 inches tall, 30 inches wide, 23.5 inches deep. The distance between the bottom cabinet and the top of the fridge is 3.5 inches. I really would like to use that space rather than closing it. I am not a wine drinker, so no wine glass storage idea please. I do not like to make it an open shelf either. I like the finished look. I would like to make it a long and narrow drawer-the contractor did not like the idea for the look. Do you think it is going to look OK with the drawer under the cabinet? Could someone help? any new ideas please.


clipped on: 09.13.2013 at 06:25 pm    last updated on: 09.13.2013 at 06:25 pm

Walnut cabinets are in -- need help with pull placement, please

posted by: kaysd on 02.27.2013 at 10:35 am in Kitchens Forum

Our walnut cabinets are in! The White Macaubas counters should be installed within 2 weeks. Then the plumber will hook up the sinks and DW and we’ll have a functional kitchen again. The cabinet guys will come back after that to install the DW and wine fridge panels and take care of a few other little details, including installing my pulls, so I need to get pulls ordered ASAP.

Pictures are below - please excuse the dust and dangling wires. I love the tall glass pantry doors. We will apply a Solyx film to the glass to obscure the contents. If I didn’t need room to store cereal and soup, I would leave the glass clear and just display china and other decorative items there, lol.

I have decided to go with the Top Knobs Princetonian pulls. They are available in the following sizes: 4-9/16”, 5-13/16, 7-1/8, 9-5/8, 12-1/8, 15-13/16, 19-1/16, 27-1/2, 31-1/16, and 37-7/8.” I was able to order a few of the 27.5” and 5-13/16” pulls quickly from Amazon. The 27.5” size looks good on the 36” drawers, but too long on the 30” drawers. I’m going to use the 19” handles on the 30” drawers, the 9-5/8” on the 18” drawers and the 7-1/8” on the 16” drawers, which leaves about 4-5” exposed at the ends of each drawer. I will probably use a 15-13/16” pull on the 24” dishwasher panel; not sure what to do about the wine fridge. I am still undecided on the size and orientation to use on the various doors.

For the drawers, I originally planned to put them 2.5” from the top edge of each drawer (which would be centered on the upper 5” high drawers), but now I am thinking that might be too far from the edge, especially if I also use horizontal pulls on the doors, since I want to be consistent with spacing. Maybe 1” or 1.25” or 1.5” from the edge would be better.

I am having a hard time deciding whether to use horizontal or vertical pulls on the doors. The north side of the island is especially tricky, since there is a false drawer front over an 18” door, then a 36” drawer over two 18” doors. I wish I had split that top drawer into two 18” drawers so I could just center the handles on both drawers and doors. If I use horizontal handles on the doors, do you think it looks better to center them on the panel, or place them next to the edge that opens? If I use vertical pulls, they will be in the 4-8” size range, as the vertical pulls that run most of the height of the doors does not feel right to me here. I almost wonder if knobs might look better on the upper doors (keeping horizontal pulls on the lower doors to match the drawers).

There are 30” wide x 10” high lift-up panels over the fridge and freezer. I have seen long pulls used on those before, so I could use the 19” pulls to match the 30” drawers, but think something smaller might look better. I wish I could just use a hidden touch latch on those, but think I will need something to pull on to lift them.
For the pantry, I originally thought I would use the 38” handles to mimic the 44” handles on the fridge & freezer, but now that those doors are in they seem kind of “delicate” with the tall, slim glass panels and stiles. I am not sure whether to stick with the long pulls or go with a short (4-8”) pull or knob.

I have to get this all figured out quickly, so I would really appreciate any input.

Back wall with range & refrigeration columns (2 pairs of 14” wide upper doors):

Pantry & oven wall (waiting for steam oven install):

Sink run is hard to photograph due to sun coming in windows (2 18.5” wide upper doors):

North side of island (18” sink cabinet, then 36" top drawer over 36” double doors with pullouts):

Vertical pulls on doors:

Horizontal pulls on doors centered on panels:

Horizontal pulls on doors with pull toward edge that opens:

Minimal pull tabs on uppers:



clipped on: 07.18.2013 at 07:35 pm    last updated on: 07.18.2013 at 07:35 pm

A Blanco Silgranit Beware

posted by: sudhira on 06.18.2011 at 11:56 am in Kitchens Forum

Just want to share my experience so far with ordering a Silgranit sink.

Firstly, if you want to purchase the new colors: Biscotti or Truffle, they are on backorder for at LEAST 3-4 weeks. For the other colors, give yourself a good 3 week window.

Our first sink came with 2 defects, a hole in the rim, and the Blanco logo placed crooked under the area where the faucet would be.

We scrambled to find another sink, had to settle for Biscuit instead of Biscotti, this second sink arrived cracked...

I sure hope the 3rd is the charm...cuz we can't proceed with the granite until we have the sink...

Be fore-warned...order way ahead, and inspect carefully!


clipped on: 07.03.2013 at 03:21 pm    last updated on: 07.03.2013 at 03:21 pm

Is epoxy grout worth it?

posted by: countrygal_905 on 02.15.2010 at 10:49 am in Kitchens Forum

The place where we bought our kitchen tile recommended epoxy grout. I have read that it is quite a bit more expensive and also difficult to work with, thus more expense to have installed. Is the price difference worth it? Any other pro and cons. I need to make this decision soon. Thanks.


clipped on: 06.23.2013 at 11:43 pm    last updated on: 06.23.2013 at 11:43 pm

90% finished walnut & laminate kitchen

posted by: jhwu on 01.22.2011 at 01:55 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi everyone --- long time lurker and very occasional poster here for the past 4 years. Thanks everyone ---- I've learned so much from all of you!

We're just about done with constructing our little house - we started the design process in late 2006 and have been under construction for 18 months.

We're about to punchlist the house and so we unwrapped all the kitchen cabs. Its very exciting!

The kitchen is not too terribly large but its just right for our small family. The cabinets are made of walnut, except for the cantilevered cabinets, which are plastic-laminate in the front. They were made by Henrybuilt and I'm thrilled with their staff -- they helped so much along the way! The counters are Caesarstone Blizzard, and the floors are a white terrazzo that mimics the counters.

The backsplash (back painted glass color matched to Benjamin Moore Hazy Skies) above the upper cabs is still not done. That said, the backsplash is meant to be as subtle as possible in order to limit the diversity of the palette, so we chose the color to be the exact same color as the surrounding wall. The pendant lights are not installed either (we've still got the ugly temporary fluorescents there to pass title-24 CA energy rules). None of the drawers / cabs have been tuned / adjusted yet.

The ovens and hood were bought from ebay (discontinued models) for 70% off list price .... The hood was kind of a pain though - the seller from Brooklyn (I should have known) advertised it as "new in box" but it actually turned out to be a display model. I had to fix a cloudy LCD display and a flaky knob-switch on it so my savings for that was probably around 50% instead of 70%.

The cooktops are the miele 30" induction unit and a gagg gas wok hob. We also used a hidden miele 36" fridge/freezer combo and a miele dishwasher. I hope these work OK --- the fridge came with a burnt out light bulb and I had to replace one already.

The undercab lights are Hera LED pucks. They are a bit dimmer than I had hoped, but they are still quite nice. I'd use them again. They are recessed into the underside of the upper cabs and there is no light rail.

If I had to do it over again, I think I'd try and eliminate the upper cabs entirely and just backsplash that entire wall. However, my practical side starts to say that I'd be giving up valuable cabinet space...


clipped on: 06.23.2013 at 10:48 pm    last updated on: 06.23.2013 at 10:49 pm

What kind of outlet covers for b/s

posted by: lissa711 on 09.18.2008 at 06:40 am in Kitchens Forum more posting relating to my b/s. I really just want to get this kitchen DONE! My tile guy said "all his customers get nice outlet covers to go with their b/s" but doesn't know where they get them. He didn't give me much of an idea of what these outlet covers would look like either. Any suggestions for outlet/switch covers for my kitchen and Butler's Pantry backsplashes?

butlers pantry:



clipped on: 06.22.2013 at 01:02 am    last updated on: 06.22.2013 at 01:02 am

help! water softener and ro system for my home

posted by: Jlmurph2 on 04.03.2013 at 12:42 pm in Plumbing Forum

To whom it concerns,

I would like some advice on water softeners and RO systems. I've done a lot of blog reading, I've met with a Culligan Rep, a Kinetico Rep, and spoken with an online retailer (, and I am still having a hard time deciding.

Here are the basic details of my water.
-19-21 hardness
-.7 chlorine
-550 Disolved particales
-No Iron
-City Water
-zipcode = 45039-OH
-2 Adults, 2 children - So let's say 4 Adults

Now my first concern is what type of softener I should buy - I'm not too interested in the sizing of the unit as I'm confident I'd be able to determine that on my own and with the help of the company I'd buy the softener from.

What I am interested in first and foremost is whether I should buy the Culligan (Medallist Series - $1,379.18 (with an external carbon filter add $426)), the Kinetico (4040 - $3,051.90 which includes the carbon filter internally), or some random online brand (you'd probably be able to recommend the best one for me but I have looked at based out of PA - priced around $600-$700). The Culligan and Kinetico installation is included in the price where as the online one is not.

So which one should I buy? What would you recommend? Does one need to be services more than another? Maintance costs? Which one will simply last the longest before I'd need a new one?

My next conern is whether I even need a Carbon filter? What exactly does a carbon filter do? I know it removes chlorine but what else? The Chlorine levels are not even high enough to what else do I benefit from having a Carbon filter?

Once I determine the type of next conern is the reverse osmosis product I choose. Cullligan offers two types, one at $699+tax that includes installation and then one at $1,099+tax that includes installation. Is one really that much better than the other to justify the $400 increase?

Kinetico then offers two different reverse osmosis machines as at $1,193 and another at $1,368. They proclaim that theirs are the very best on the market.

The online retailer offered me a reversee osmosis machine for around $200 that does not include any installation. I'd also like to point out that the online retailer offers a 5 yr warranty on all parts for everything they'd sell labor warranty of course.

Aside from the warranties, I'm interested in why there is such a price difference between the Online retailer and Culligan/Kinetico. Next I am interested in which RO system is better when looking at Culligan's and Kinetico's.

Lastly I'm then interested in whether there is an alternative that you'd recommend as a RO system that is a better bang for your buck for the RO system.

Note that my reverse osmosis system will be located under my sink and have a line running to my fridge as well.

This pretty much wraps up my questions for now. I want a good product that gets the jov done and done right...but I don't want to pay more than I have to. I want the best value for what I'm paying.

It's hard to convince myself to pay that much money for a Kinetico.

Last question, do the prices above for the Culligan and Kinetico systems seem "in line" to you or should I go back to them with some negotiating on the price?

I very much appreciate your feedback and I'll love to see ALL the points addressed in the reply of this email. if any further info is needed just let me know...I'll be checking back on this website at least once a day till I make the decision.


clipped on: 06.21.2013 at 11:43 pm    last updated on: 06.21.2013 at 11:43 pm