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RE: Overwintering a Brug & Brug Cuttings! Helpful Hints! :) (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: gottahosta on 09.27.2009 at 10:09 am in Brugmansia Forum

LOL, who is going to tackle these questions? I will answer a couple for the way I do it on cuttings.

I did something different over the summer to root cuttings, just a few, and just the hard to root ones. Think I heard about this method on the Plummie forum. Worked for brugs. and this works on all cuttings, not just the hard ones.

I took a quart pot. Took a toilet paper roll tube and cut it in half( for longer, bigger cuttings, you can use the whole tube).
Punched some holes in it about 1" from the bottom.
Put 1.5" potting soil in the bottom of the pot.
Set the TP roll tube in the middle, vertically.
Filled in potting soil around the cardboard tube to within 1/2 " of the top of the tube.
Put 1/2" to 1" of perlite inside the tube.
Placed my cutting inside the tube, and held it in the center while I finished filling the tube with perlite up to the top.
Water, and put in a spot where it gets filtered outdoor light or inside under lights for 12-14 hours a day, at temperatures in the 70's til roots are well-formed, and then at least 55-60 degrees for the duration of the winter.

This method is for unrooted cuttings or cuttings just starting to root. The roots form in the perlite and then grow out into the soil thru the holes and thru the bottom of the tube. The tube rots eventually, being cardboard.
This method eliminates much of the rot that cuttings are prone to from winter growing conditions.

Ha, Mike, you're learning!!!



clipped on: 09.27.2009 at 11:23 am    last updated on: 09.27.2009 at 11:23 am

RE: Overwintering a Brug & Brug Cuttings! Helpful Hints! :) (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: kasha77 on 09.26.2009 at 10:16 pm in Brugmansia Forum

Hi Gang- I've learned so much from my mistakes last winter when trying to start brug cuttings.. I had both green & hardwood cuttings...the hardwood cuttings were stronger, & didn't wilt or rot as readily.. I have a somewhat warm, dark basement, at least 50*... I cut brug stems into 8 inch sections- stood them up in 5 gal. buckets. I let them harden off- (let their ends heal over somewhat)- then trickled some water on them, but only barely enough so they weren't standing in more than a trace of water... then I loosely placed a plastic bag over the top to retain moisture.... I noticed that lenticles started to form all over the stems.... (these are small white bumps that eventually turn into roots). I had to check often to see if they needed a little drink, or if the stems were beginning to rot or root- & remove any that might have died... I kept many of them this way until I gave them away for postage... I'm sure that if I had placed them in a well lit room that they would have taken off- but my house is just a little cottage, & I didn't have a sunny window.... most of the cuttings that I tried to start in soil died over the winter.... I probably lost half of what I received in trades... I think they rotted because of lack of warmth & light.. maybe I killed them with kindness, too much watering. I did keep some rooted brug cuttings in the basement, no light, barely watering them, only enough to keep them from shriveling, these have turned into amazing plants, orange noids with a heavenly fragrance! Anyway- I am determined to do better this year- I will pot new cuttings up after they have rooted, & will use a very fast draining soil mix- keep them in my basement til spring-and say a prayer! Hope to hear from others about their experiences too!



keeping brug cuttings
clipped on: 09.27.2009 at 11:21 am    last updated on: 09.27.2009 at 11:22 am

RE: 'newb' with questions and..... (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: karyn1 on 09.23.2009 at 08:31 am in Brugmansia Forum

Hi Frances,

Lucy's right. It's too late to plant them in the yard. Keep them inside and plant them in the spring so they'll have time to establish a good root system.

If you want to take cuttings to make new plants do it anytime before the first frost on the inground plant. Once the frost hits it you can cut it back (dispose of those cuttings) and mulch it.

You can take cuttings of your container plants whenever you want. Since they are big I'd allow them to go dormant in a cool dark area like the garage or basement. Stop all feeding about a month prior to dormancy. For the container plants you want to strip the foliage but cut it at the leaf base of the petiole, not flush with the trunk. The remaining stems will yellow and drop on their own. You can cut it back if you want or you can leave it be. Once you have it in a cool room cut WAY back on watering. Maybe a cup or so every 4 weeks just to keep the roots hydrated. Bring the plant back into a warm lighted area in the early spring and begin watering and feeding. You can then plant it outside when the temps warm up. You could also keep the container plants growing thru the winter if you want but I think it's easier to allow them to go dormant.

If you've taken cuttings you can keep them in water thru the winter or you can pot them up. That's up to you. If you are going to keep them in water either use an aerator or change the water frequently. The new cuttings need to be kept growing throughout the winter.

Your brugs look great.


Best cuttin advice
clipped on: 09.24.2009 at 03:18 pm    last updated on: 09.24.2009 at 03:18 pm

First attempt at Plate Flowers, Photo's!

posted by: dulcimerduo on 04.30.2009 at 09:28 am in Garden Junk Forum

So, I've been collecting plates for flowers for awhile now. I recently found some copper thingys called Bell Hangers and glued them (GE II) to the back of the largest plate. I then bought a 10ft joint of copper tubing and cut it into 4 stems. It's very easy to attach the flowers to the pipe.

What do you think?

plate flowers 2
plate flowers

Let me know if you want more pictures, their alot of fun to make, the hard part is waiting 24 hours before you can "plant" them..


Bell Hangers
clipped on: 09.11.2009 at 05:21 pm    last updated on: 09.11.2009 at 05:22 pm

RE: Toni's home made mite killer (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: hopefulauthor on 08.03.2009 at 02:34 pm in Fragrant Plants Forum

So, you're saying, when your plants are indoors, mites attack, then after hauling outside, they die, right?

If you question why this happens, the answer is simple. Fresh, Circulating Air..not sun, watering, fertilizing or even humidity, (although humidity plays a major role.) Actually, all the above make a difference, but fresh air is the key to keeping mites at bay.

Once windows are closed and heat's turned on, the house gets stuffy.
When temps are warm, opening a window freshens air, especially if you have a ceiling or rotating fan running on low, 'even a few hours per day.' (Never direct air on plants.)

Mites, and other insects don't like certain flavors/smells, so the object is to experiment, find which edibles work best for your plants.

Over the years I've mixed different edibles and harmless products. Before birds were a part of my life, I used chemical sprays, but didn't like the smell or the fact we were breathing dangerous products, including those marked safe indoors.
I'll jot a list of items I use to make this mix, but since I no longer measure, the amounts are 'approximate.' If a little more or lesss is added, your plant/s won't be harmed..

16-20 oz mister
2-4 drops dishsoap (not Dawn)
Garlic, (either chopped or squeezed..Liquid prevents sprayer from clogging. 1-2 cloves
Citrus Rind, (prefer lemon or lime) Like garlic, adding lime or lemon juice prevents clogging. 1/4-1/2 teas.
Cayenne Pepper, sprinkled in water..1/8th teas should do.

It's best to prepare ingredients (in water) the day/night before..Shake thoroughly after mixing and before each use.

You can keep this mix for long as you shake bottle and water doesn't get cold if placed in a cold spot.

Fish Emulsion: Started using FE as a foliar 'insect' spray when I bought a scale-infested olive tree. A woman who owns a citrus nursery in Fl told me they use FE as a preventative against scale and organic feedings.. She was so right..I sprayed, not only the Olive tree, but neighboring plants scale found homes.

1 capful per 16-20 oz mister of water..Can be used with or without the above ingredients.. I prefer with.
Before plants are brought indoors, each plant is sprayed with the above mix and FE..One to two applications, a week apart.
When FE (or any fertilizer) is added, discard excess.
I also like the idea that FE works as a last foliar feeding of the year. It doesn't burn leaves or roots. (Roots when fertilized via soil.)

So, that's about it. BTW, my plants are sprayed with this concoction twice a month or so during winter months..minus the FE. (Unless scale is found) And thank God, since the olive tree disaster, that was the last time any plant, including the olive tree, had scale.

So, Yellow, if you have these ingredients lying around, mix and spray throughout winter. It's also a good idea, before hauling plants inside, first hose with plain water, air dry, then spray mix before bringing plants in. Who wants SPIDERS in their house???? YUCK.

If your plant room get stuffy, run a fan a few hours a day. Or better yet, crack open a window. If your home is dry, infest in a humidifer and mist/shower.
Goood luck, Toni


Homemade sprays for insects
clipped on: 09.07.2009 at 11:52 am    last updated on: 09.07.2009 at 11:52 am

My new idea for plate flowers awesome!!!

posted by: gardencraze on 08.31.2009 at 09:00 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Remember I said I was working on an idea for the plate flowers????
Well Ithink this is it

After I made my plate and it was very dry, I flatten a soup
spoon with a hammer and glued it to the back of the plate, when the spoon was dry to the plate, (very dry)
Using 1/2 inch metal electrical pipe I hammered the pipe in the ground and simply sliped the end of the spoon into the pipe.So easy and worked like a charm and is very sturdy and looks very clean. I just didn't like that elbow sticking out in the back.

Please tell me what you think good or bad I can handle it LOL Here are pix.

new plate flower Idea

new plate flower Idea

rose and blue together

roses are red plate flower

I need to take a pic of the back it looks really good and clean
I'm not blue

I tried a fork as you can see but I didn't like how it looked. oh and I got that slant I was looking for by bending the spoon a little.

Thanks for looking


Now this is an idea I can live with.
clipped on: 09.03.2009 at 09:26 am    last updated on: 09.03.2009 at 09:27 am

Homemade bee traps - foofna

posted by: penny1947 on 09.12.2005 at 05:06 am in Hummingbird Garden Forum

You asked how I made my bee traps so here goes.....

I use pop bottles but any plastic bottle would probably work just fine.

THese are very primitive and not necessarily attractive but they do work and they are free if you use old recyclable bottles.

Method #1
Take a pop bottle standing upright and make several small crossed slits around the side of the bottle about midway in the form of an X. My slits were only about a half inch long. Then push those triangular cuts inward just enough to create a small opening where the bees, yellowjackets can enter the bottle but the part you have pushed inward will make it difficult for them to be able to exit. Unscrew the cap and add sugar water keeping it below the holes that you made. i use the nectar from my feederz when I am changing it out. Put the cap back on and Then just use a piece of wire or string around the neck of the bottle to hang it or set it on a fence post etc.

Method #2
Using a pop bottle cut it in two about 1/3 of the way down from the neck. Remove the cap and Put the top part down into the bottom like a funnel. Pour sugar water down into the bottle through the funnel. I put 2 holes along the cut edges at the top where the two sections fit together to put a piece of wire through to hang it up but you could just set it on a post or out of the way place as well. The yellowjackets will go down into the funnel opening to reach the nectar.

I hope that I have explained these methods well ehough.
I did use both methods when we were camping to keep the yellow jackets away from our tcampsite and both methods worked like a charm. In 5 days I caught well over 50 yellow jackets....over a dozen the first afternoon after I hung the first one.

They will fly around in there for a day or two but they will eventually drown in the nectar. If you need to add more nectar, the funnel method is easier. with method #1 you will have to wait for the ones in there to die before taking the cap off to pour more sugar water in as they tend to fly to the top of the bottle.



clipped on: 08.27.2009 at 02:30 pm    last updated on: 08.27.2009 at 02:31 pm

RE: Copper tubing or metal rod (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: carousel222 on 08.19.2009 at 11:09 am in Garden Junk Forum

I have used the PVC pipe, but I drive a piece of rebar into the ground and slide the PVC pipe over top of that to make it more stable. I also glue a flange to the bottom of the saucer instead of doing any drilling. The PVC pipe screws into the flange. This way I can unscrew the feeder when it needs a good cleaning.


I gotta make these!
clipped on: 08.20.2009 at 05:54 pm    last updated on: 08.20.2009 at 05:54 pm

RE: making the pendants, pictures and tutorial 2 (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: nicethyme on 08.17.2009 at 07:18 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

cut it out and use as a pattern to cut two of the same shape, lay in wire loops or jump rings and "glue" the 2nd piece over top

bezel tut 2


2nd step, could be deleted if using this for just tiles
clipped on: 08.17.2009 at 08:29 pm    last updated on: 08.17.2009 at 08:29 pm


posted by: nicethyme on 07.31.2009 at 07:38 am in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

I have always wanted to try leaf casting

so here I have coated the back of a paulownia leaf with concrete patch, reinforced the edges with drywall tape and added anoth layer of patch on the edges. Now I covered the whole back with drywall tape and start troweling on the sand/portland mix

leaf 2


see entire thread
clipped on: 07.31.2009 at 11:25 am    last updated on: 07.31.2009 at 11:26 am

Lesson- How to cut china into HEART shapes!

posted by: mangomoon on 09.28.2007 at 01:16 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

I have decided to let the cat out of the bag. Have you ever seen the prices on eBay for hearts cut from china plates? Highway robbery if you ask me. Sellers charge as much as $12.50 for 3, and up to $24.00 for a lot of them. There is no secret if you ask me. You don't need any fancy tool other than a basic tile nipper.

First of all, the china you cut will have alot to do with whether or not you 'make it, or break it'. I do not recommend fine bone china, as it shatters.

The focals you want to cut should be in the center of the plate. If there is a footer, and there will be on bowls, not so bad on regular plates, you have to cut as you normally would to remove the footer. Once on the inside you cut out the center.

Next you take a felt pen (red, green or blue), but do not use a Sharpie, as it may not come off. You draw a heart shape, any size you want. You can also use the lid to a very small Valentine candy box, or a cookie cutter in any shape you want, to draw your line. It doesn't have to be heart shaped.

Now that you have drawn your shape, be careful not to touch the ink so it doesn't rub off. Use your tile nippers to carefully cut the shape. When you get to the top where it is a little harder to shape (this is usually where you make it or break it), you use the TOP part of your nippers and cut opposite from how you would normally cut if you have them in your hand. In other words, instead of clockwise, go counter clockwise. Go slowly, this will give you more control.

Now that you have cut out your heart, wipe off the ink, or wash your tile in water, dry, then you use sand paper (I prefer fine texture) and sand away the edges so that it is smooth and not crooked all the way around. You should now have a very nice smooth shape, ready to use in a project.

My hearts are Shabby as you can see, but blue willow plates, geometric pattern and solid dark colors would also look great in heart shapes.

Mango Moon

Here is a link that might be useful: china hearts


clipped on: 02.19.2009 at 03:24 pm    last updated on: 02.19.2009 at 03:24 pm

Vanishing point

posted by: meadel on 01.07.2009 at 12:43 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

I started this yesterday for a "vanishing point" challenge. (due on 1/15)
The Light at the end of the tunnel (sometimes is an oncoming train!)

:WIP Vanishing Point
The tiles are polymer clay. I had to paint the inside to give my addled brain some idea of what I was doing. I will probably add some stained glass. No real planning I am just making it up as I go along.
Todays progress: ( grouted the pc tiles)

wip2  The light at the end of the tunnel


Great brick look!
clipped on: 01.12.2009 at 09:43 am    last updated on: 01.12.2009 at 09:43 am

Backs of my plate flowers

posted by: concretenprimroses on 10.23.2008 at 12:16 pm in Garden Junk Forum

I had a problem with the backs because I wanted a subtle look. Unfortunately the "rim" of the metal elbow where it attaches to the washer doesn't provide much space to adhere. If I moved my flowers around in the garden they would break off at that point with the washer sticking to the back of the flower. (At least that part worked well) A friend of mine suggested that I put a big glob of silicone down inside (once attached to the plate) to connect the rest of the inner washer surface to the inside sides of the metal elbow. Does that make sense? Any way that seems to have solved the problem, so far. (clear GE silicone II for windows and doors) Newbies may want to consult with wiser minds than mine, but I'm going to test try it this way and see how it goes.

Here are pics of the washer situation and the flower backs. The elbow on the left has the washer attached (but no glob inside yet, I am doing that once the unit of washer and elbow are attached to the back of the plate.)
I have linked to the whole shebang again as well.



In theory you can remove the plate with attached elbow from the post and store it more easily. By the way I now notice that some elbows allow the post to go in deeper than others, and sometimes one end of the elbow is better that way than the other. So I am paying more attention to that when I buy the hardware.


Here is a link that might be useful: Plate flowers


clipped on: 10.23.2008 at 02:10 pm    last updated on: 10.23.2008 at 02:10 pm

RE: need some help with a bird bath (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: slowmedown on 08.04.2008 at 09:24 am in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

G'mornin' ELLA: You don't really need to seal concrete to mosaic it - only spritz it w/water while you're laying on the THINSET. I use Lowes Mapei polymer-modified mortar (UltraFlex 2) for adhesive and also the same for the grout for all outside pieces. DO NOT USE WELDBOND. The only disaster I have had was in my early days of mosaicing. I sealed a terra cotta pot w/Weldbond. The first winter, I took the plants out of the pot, but forgot to do that last winter, and all the pieces fell off. Everything I've used the mortar on is still intact. IMO - sealing after it's grouted isn't necessary either on the concrete and the concrete-based mortar. I only seal to change the look of the grout from dull to glossy. IF you feel more comfortable w/sealing your concrete, Quickcrete has a sealer - or DryLoc. Check w/your tile store for other advice. You can also call Mapei's 800 number to get info. I did, and they were great. As long as Lowes carries it, that's my favorite cuz it already has the admixture in it - just mix it w/water to cake-batter consistency - it's a wonderful adhesive. I use it for grout to ensure adhesion to sort make it all one unit. Hope this helps, and WELCOME to the forum.


grout/adhesive advise
clipped on: 08.04.2008 at 01:28 pm    last updated on: 09.26.2008 at 09:18 am

RE: fiberglass tile mesh (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: flagtruck on 09.08.2008 at 08:13 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Red, I use the mesh a lot like Slow said. I have several examples in my flickr album. I am presently doing arms and back of a swing in my yard. I draw the outline of the arms, do it in marker, lay it out on the table, cut mesh to fit, then I slide a piece of wax paper between the mesh and the pattern and start gluing. After I have finished, I wait for the glue to dry, lift the mesh, pull off the wax paper and turn it mesh side up to dry for at least 24 hrs. Then trim the mesh to the tile and place thinset on your substrate and adhere the mosaic. Wait another 24 hrs and grout as you would any other mosaic. I did some frogs for the side of my flower pot, the checkerboards for my backsplash. the inset on a purple pot and the arms of another swing I finished a month or two ago.
I like being able to sit at the worktable and do these designs that are easier to do on mesh, than trying to stand on your head or whatever to get the job done. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask here.

Here is a link that might be useful: Flickr photos


make small squares of mixed media!
clipped on: 09.15.2008 at 06:19 pm    last updated on: 09.15.2008 at 06:20 pm


posted by: flagtruck on 09.13.2008 at 12:39 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Here is a pic of one of my big gourds that I started yesterday and I can't seem to put down my nippers! This thing is very addicting. I have the other one ready to start too, it will be red and purple. This is so much fun figuring out the next segment. You will also see a horizontal pot I finished this week using Oceana glass. This pot has been laying around for a while and now it is dressed and if it ever stops raining will be grouted..we are presently in the aftermath of Ike...but he too shall pass....

Here is a link that might be useful: Large gourd


love the patterns for blowling balls
clipped on: 09.15.2008 at 10:04 am    last updated on: 09.15.2008 at 10:04 am

Keystoning technique

posted by: flagtruck on 08.25.2008 at 02:47 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Here is the link to the excerpt from Sonia's book about keystoning. It will maginify so you can read and print it.

Here is a link that might be useful: Sonia King+keystoning


clipped on: 08.26.2008 at 01:14 pm    last updated on: 08.26.2008 at 01:14 pm

Birdhouse gourd

posted by: flagtruck on 08.24.2008 at 03:10 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Here's a WIP to whet your appetite! I am using birdhouse gourds that I grew last year. I cleaned them, washed them with bleach water, dried and then two coats of Kilz. I am using Dap acrylic kitchen and bath adhesive and GEII.(Whichever I pick up) It is going smoothly and giving me lots of practice with my keystoning. It keeps raining and keeping me indoors so I am making tiles and working on this gourd. Stay tuned for more pics.

Here is a link that might be useful: Birdhouse gourd WIP


try drawing your pattern instead of winging it! This is beautiful!
clipped on: 08.25.2008 at 10:39 am    last updated on: 08.25.2008 at 10:40 am

totems on copper poles

posted by: realrose on 08.11.2008 at 09:56 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Hi everyone. Wanted to show you some totems on poles. I try and make them look like "garden ladies." I was in a show this Saturday. These are pictures at the very end. I should have taken some in the beginning when I had more "junk". I sold 4 dish flowers, 1 mosaiced bowling ball and 1 totem. Was very pleased. This is only the second time I've done a show. Rose Mary
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clipped on: 08.13.2008 at 09:08 am    last updated on: 08.16.2008 at 03:41 pm

RE: totems on copper poles (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: realrose on 08.13.2008 at 01:49 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Thanks again all! I offer them priced 2 ways one with pole and one without. Most of the girls can just sit without a pole or people can do whatever they want for the pole themselves. Laurastheme I learned here a long time ago how to attach them to the pole. Here's what I do others may a have better idea. I usually use some type of candle stick, simply because the opening is normally about 1/2",then use an adapter (in copper)that goes from 1/2" to 3/4" and attatch to the pole on 3/4" end. I put vaseline in the 3/4" side, makes it easier to slide pole on and off. The tricky part is the glue. You are glueing copper to glass and silicone won't work. I was told to use "plumbers goop" which does fine for maybe a year. Now I've switched to 2 different glues. One is "Welder", my husband brought it home from Lowes and he thinks it will do better than the plumbers goop (time will tell). After that drys I wrap it in that new glue, the kind that is 2 colors and you knead it for awhile until it all the same color.The glue ends up kind of rubbery, you can shape it. I shape it like a worm and wrap it around where the copper meets the glass. It drys like concrete. I hope it is be strong enough, using 2 glues, to hold. I also hope I have not totally confused you. Please ask me any other questions or someone else may have better ideas. Thanks again,Rose Mary


3/4 inch poles, use the glue mentioned here for large birdbaths as well
clipped on: 08.16.2008 at 03:37 pm    last updated on: 08.16.2008 at 03:39 pm

glass mushrooms

posted by: dee54 on 08.12.2008 at 10:29 pm in Garden Junk Forum

I made these mushrooms out of glass and sometimes I used flat marbles on them.

Image link: glass mushrooms (52 k)


clipped on: 08.13.2008 at 09:10 am    last updated on: 08.13.2008 at 09:10 am

RE: Concrete mushrooms (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: dee54 on 08.12.2008 at 10:16 pm in Garden Junk Forum

morninglori I use
1 portland
1 sand
No, I have not painted any but I do want to try. I also have made leaves and have painted them before. I want to try hypertufa for the mushrooms so that I can carve them a bit.


recipie for mushrooms
clipped on: 08.13.2008 at 08:59 am    last updated on: 08.13.2008 at 09:00 am

Done with my first totem...I think

posted by: blooming_in_zone5 on 08.12.2008 at 01:34 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Here it is. I added the glass prisms/crystals left over from my chandelier, but they were too big and gaudy looking. Spoiled the classy, clean look I see in this piece. So I removed the large hanging parts and left the smaller ones.
I wish I had a nicer pole for it, but the broken rake handle will have to do for now - the plastic bit keeps the bottle snug in place. I blew my playing budget on the glassware I picked up this week.


clipped on: 08.13.2008 at 08:55 am    last updated on: 08.13.2008 at 08:55 am

Concrete mushrooms

posted by: dee54 on 08.12.2008 at 06:32 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Here are three of the 14 concrete mushrooms that I have made in the last three weeks. They are so much fun to see what they look like when unmolded. I use a variety of plastic and glass items like fast food big drinking cups, glass or plastic sundae glasses, glass footed candy dishes, and metal bowls.
When using the cups or sundae glasses I first spray Pam and then line the inside of the glass with plastic. For the tops I just line with the plastic unless it is a deep bowl. It then is easy to pop or pull out the hardened form. Then they go into the water to cure. I also use another cup like the stem that I cover in plastic and place in the middle of the top so the two will fit right into each other when finished.

Image link: Concrete mushrooms (38 k)


clipped on: 08.12.2008 at 06:38 pm    last updated on: 08.12.2008 at 06:38 pm

RE: The Head WIP (Follow-Up #43)

posted by: slowmedown on 08.10.2008 at 03:51 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Thanks again. It's still raining, but since it's under a very wide eave of the house, I've been able to get this far w/the 3-D stuff. I'm really stuck here, girlies. I need some in-put from y'all. I'll fill in the holes here/there, but I'm wondering just how far, and how deep, how many layers I should make these 3-D things? Should I just fill in the holes inside the beginning brown tiles, and call it done? It could be a virtual perpetual project. One could just keep on adding and adding, but I'm tired of it, so I sure could use some suggestions. C'mon, y'all. Tell me what to do. Oh, BTW - those cups and broken things w/hold more votives. Gotta cover the backs of the tiles that hold the two top cups. There were gonna be for the votives, but I couldn't get them taped to stick. Therefore the backs of the tiles are visible, and I can cover those w/baubles.
Update w/3-D stuff


note cup handles and other objects for holding candles
clipped on: 08.11.2008 at 11:50 am    last updated on: 08.11.2008 at 11:50 am

Memo Boards

posted by: mjowest on 08.08.2008 at 07:58 am in Trash To Treasure Forum

I took the enamelware trays that come out of old stoves, tin tops and metal plates- drilled two holes in them, and hang them with jute (doubled or tripled).

Do they look too plain?



Here is a link that might be useful: Metal Memo Boards


clipped on: 08.08.2008 at 10:36 am    last updated on: 08.08.2008 at 10:36 am

Latest project

posted by: marlene_2008 on 08.06.2008 at 04:31 pm in Garden Junk Forum

It's been so hot here, my DH and I haven't been doing a lot of new projects, but I thought I would post the last one we've done. I have had shutters in my garden for a while, but could never get the right "holder" for them. So, my DH came up with a great idea! He welded a holder for them. The stars are resin, even though they look like rusty metal. Now, I can change the colors with the seasons, and maybe put other things out too.

Shutter holder

Shutter holder Stars

Shutter holder Rear


clipped on: 08.06.2008 at 06:33 pm    last updated on: 08.06.2008 at 06:33 pm

Becky's Sun Orb!!!

posted by: elephantear on 08.05.2008 at 09:04 pm in Garden Junk Forum

I bought this last month at a Greene Iowa Garden Event made by forum member Becky's,Ia; didn't she do a fantastic job - who could resist!! Becky also did a wonderful presentation and formative seminar on 'Tufa Troughs' great job Becky we learnt a lot that day. Wendy

Here is a link that might be useful: Webshots


clipped on: 08.05.2008 at 09:11 pm    last updated on: 08.05.2008 at 09:12 pm

RE: jean planter ? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: sorie6 on 07.30.2008 at 09:28 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Thanks for your suggestions. They are very easy to make here goes hope this makes sense.
I do use REAL jeans. Or kids short overalls. You can use any kind of glue. Stiffy, liquid starch ,Elmers. Some people dilute it. I didn't. Put it (glue) in a dish pan, bucket ect. I turn them (pants) wrong side out first and soak them in the glue. turn right side out and soak again. I've used 31/2 clay pots to put in the bottom of legs if they are shorts, I've used water or beer bottles filled with rocks or sand in the longer legs. DH made the the neatest frame from PVC pipe that I Hook them to so they stand up better. If anyone is interested I'll send a pic of it.
I then stuff plastic bags in the legs and top. I put a plastic pot at the top to hold it while it dries. When dry I put at least 3 coats of urethane on them.
Hope this helps. Thanks


clipped on: 08.04.2008 at 03:27 pm    last updated on: 08.04.2008 at 03:27 pm

More Light Blocks

posted by: cindiloo on 08.04.2008 at 02:18 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

As promised, here are a couple more light blocks I've made.
I was so worried about the cuts fitting just right on the butterfly, but it turned out pretty good, I think. And next time I will seal the pitty vit tiles before grouting....geez, that was too much cleaning for my taste:

I started out by grouting this little guy in charcoal and it just dulled the whole thing, so I did a color wash with this blue, looks better, I think. It still needs some cleaning. I sure like just painting the sides and the backs of the block rather than glueing something and grouting the whole block!


clipped on: 08.04.2008 at 02:48 pm    last updated on: 08.04.2008 at 02:48 pm

Snake made on mesh to install later

posted by: flagtruck on 07.27.2008 at 01:12 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

This is the best use of mesh I have seen. This gal used it for almost every thing she has done. Maybe it will give some of you ideas and let you see mesh in action.

Here is a link that might be useful: mesh tutorial


clipped on: 07.30.2008 at 10:52 pm    last updated on: 07.30.2008 at 10:52 pm

RE: LIQUID admix? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: r_murray on 05.25.2008 at 07:07 pm in Hypertufa Forum

I use Probond Concrete Bonder made by Elmer's (Elmer's Glue)
and Quikrete concrete Bonding Adhesive. I add pieces to other pieces so I use these two bonding agents. I "bond" pure fiber cement parts to different mixes. Fiber cement is pure portland cement worked into the fibers of fine steel wool and used to sculpt parts.
Here is a picture of a piece I'm working on right now. It is in the rough stage and weeks from completion. The nose and lips were made with "fiber cement". Then the teeth (bits of ceramic tile), the nose and the lips were stuck to the jug surface with a mix of portland and Quikrete bonding agent. Yes the lips were made with a cement dye in the mix.



clipped on: 07.16.2008 at 10:07 pm    last updated on: 07.16.2008 at 10:07 pm

RE: Just can't get the hang of it! (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: fredw10 on 05.10.2008 at 06:03 pm in Hypertufa Forum

It sounds like you just need to keep trying with simple containers. Mix all ingredients completely before adding water. I don't think the recipe matters much. 1/1/1 cement, perlite, peat moss is a good average mix. Be sure you are using cement and NOT any Quik Crete mix.
I never measure the amount of water. You will learn from experience how wet or dry the mix should be. I have heard it compared to cottage cheese or bread dough--That is too wet for me. Add water gradually while mixing. When it gets homogeneously mixed and the surface of the mix is shiney and wet appearing-- it is too wet. If it crumbles when squeezed in your hand it is too dry.I feel it should be on the verge of being too dry. I always have a spray bottle of water at hand so if a spot appears too dry when I add mix, I just give it a spray.
When molding over a form some water will migrate to the table surface. If it does this too much and the mix starts to slump, just cut if off and add it to the top of what you are molding. If you are working with a batch and realize it is too dry, just add a little cement.
When working over a mold start at the table surface and build the mix an inch or so deep all around the form. Pack it down thoroughly before going to another layer. Add layer after layer all around an inch or two thick while packing the mix tightly. working in layers all around allows you to always know how thick you are making the wall. If you loose track of where you are, check wall thickness with a nail. If too thick cut some off. If too thin, add some more. You will not make a mistake that can't be easily corrected.
I don't think an hour to make a piece is too long--What's the hurry? Still scratchable after a few days sounds pretty normal.
The weather can affect things too. Hot and windy may dry out the mix. Too cold and it may not cure properly.
These are just some rambling thoughts that may help.
Keep trying, and you will discover a technique that works for you. Asking someone what mix to use or how wet or dry it should be is almost a an unanswerable question. Just keep working. As long as you maintain your interest it will all work out.


clipped on: 07.16.2008 at 10:50 am    last updated on: 07.16.2008 at 10:51 am

RE: Just can't get the hang of it! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: gansn on 05.09.2008 at 10:12 pm in Hypertufa Forum

I decide on my mixture of dry ingredients and then mix them very well. Then I pour up 2 parts water. But I only mix in a little at a time. You want your mixture to be cookie dough consistency. It does not run (until you start patting it), it holds together well when you make a ball in one hand, and you can't squeeze drops of water out of it easily. So if you have done 1 part sand, 1 part concrete, one part peat, start by pouring in 1/2 part water, then GRADUALLY add more water until you have that consistency. And really you want to have the water all mixed in at the beginning. If you keep adding as you go, you will have weaker portions of the container when you are finished.

Good luck, and keep trying. It is so much fun!


clipped on: 07.16.2008 at 10:50 am    last updated on: 07.16.2008 at 10:50 am

How to for concrete mushroom

posted by: gansn on 07.09.2008 at 09:39 pm in Hypertufa Forum

I was looking at google images tonight and found this site. I like the way the 'shroom looks.

Here is a link that might be useful: Mushroom how to


clipped on: 07.16.2008 at 10:43 am    last updated on: 07.16.2008 at 10:43 am

RE: Klinger's new seashell lampshade.... (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: klinger on 06.23.2008 at 07:50 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

You could use a glass or plastic fixture. This one was a white plastic and I bet a clear glass would show off the shells and glass even more.Glue your shells and glass to the outside of the light fixture, leave as small a space between them as possible. The liquid leading comes in a squirt bottle, it's maybe the same consistency as syrup, it will flow into all the spaces you have between the glass and shells. I made sure to put my silicone as close to the outside edge of everything as possible so there wouldn't be much leading leak under them.
The leading is acting as a grout, but isn't holding things together, just filling in the gaps between them.
Hope this helps,


clipped on: 07.15.2008 at 10:11 am    last updated on: 07.15.2008 at 10:11 am