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Basil help!

posted by: kissingfrgos2003 on 10.04.2011 at 04:28 pm in Container Gardening Forum

I am having trouble with my basil after several attempts in several locations and states. I've finally discovered the problem may be me, so thought I�d turn to the experts :)
I am just not sure when to start pinching leaves! I have a big problem with my basil getting taller but not wider AND turning woody and flowering. I have new seedlings with just one set of leaves so I want to start this batch out right! How many leaves should there be before I pinch AND do I pinch from tops/side/where?!?!

Here are some pics of various basil attempts to give an idea of what I am talking about. (note: all these containers now have just one plant in each after getting feedback in another forum about them being too crowded)


how to pinch and grow basil
clipped on: 10.10.2011 at 07:51 pm    last updated on: 10.10.2011 at 07:51 pm

RE: when to re-pot honeysuckle in container (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: tapla on 10.01.2011 at 06:37 pm in Container Gardening Forum

The size of the pot has little to do with 'insulation'. All a larger soil mass offers is a reduction in the amount of time it takes for root/soil temps to equalize with ambient temperatures, which isn't really an advantage. When it comes to chill injury, it's ultimately temperatures dropping to killing lows that wreaks havoc with roots. IOW - big pot - little pot - doesn't matter. It just takes a little longer for big pot to reach killing low temps.

Repot in spring before bud movement or at the very onset of bud movement.

As long as it's not Lonicera nitida, your plant is probably a zone 3 hardy plant & won't need protection, though you'll need to be sure it doesn't go dry ..... and wrapping the stems with burlap will help prevent serious dessication when the soil is frozen & water unavailable for uptake.



sent email with more questions to Al
clipped on: 10.01.2011 at 09:42 pm    last updated on: 10.01.2011 at 09:42 pm

RE: Soil for container figs (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: keith-figs on 09.02.2007 at 10:06 pm in Fig Forum

I have been growing a Brown Turkey fig tree in a pot for 6 years now. It is extremely health and produces a larger crop every year. The mix I used when first planted was a 50/50 combination of top quality black soil and a high peat content potting soil (Miracle Grow). I water heavily every day at dawn and give it a dose of Miracle Grow general-purpose, water-soluble fertilizer once a week (every Friday). I stop giving it the weekly fertilizer shortly before the fruit begins to ripen. The tree has resigned itself nicely to the size of the pot I used and stopped getting any taller 3 years ago, though it has continued to add branches. It stands about 6 feet tall. This year it gave me another bumper crop of nearly 9 dozen figs. All nicely sized with a beautiful dark purple exterior and luscious, sweet red meat. I will be repotting it this fall for the first time to a slightly larger pot just to let it have a little more room to spread out. Since our winters can be quite brutal I have to keep the pot to a size that can be taken into the garage on a 2 wheeler in late fall.

I have 2 new additions to my collection this year. I have a cutting from a wonderful Yugoslavian Fig that is taking off quite nicely. It is probably 2 or 3 years away from giving a fruit. I recently purchased a Black Sicilian that I am waiting to receive. It should be shipped very soon. Im most excited about that one. The fruit is reported to be such dark purple it is almost black and the meat is so sweet it is like a spoon full of sugar.

Dont let figs scare you. They are not difficult to grow. With a little common sense and a lot of loving care they do quite well on their own.



uses miracle gro as potting mix and fertilizer and has had tree in pot for 6 yrs.
clipped on: 09.05.2011 at 01:50 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2011 at 01:51 pm

RE: Drip Irrigation for Containers (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: calistoga on 06.02.2011 at 10:19 am in Container Gardening Forum

For my larger containers I use what is called "spitters" plastic spikes that stick into the soil about six inches long. A 1/8 inch tubing attaches to the top which has a calibrated slot that caused the water to spit out. They are from 4 to 8 gallons a hour. The plastic color indicates the gallons per hour. Nurseries use them for their container stock, and when a container is sold, simply connecting to the reverse end of the stake stops the water until another container takes the spot and is reversed again. I buy mine from Al


see website that supplies
clipped on: 07.23.2011 at 02:06 pm    last updated on: 07.23.2011 at 02:06 pm

posted by: ltalent on 03.29.2010 at 01:08 pm in Small Spaces And Urban Gardening Forum

Just a note to let you know that I've put up a site dedicated to newbie urban gardeners. It's local focus is NYC but its main focus is guiding new container gardeners. It's and it covers the basics because so many people have these modest spaces, lots of hope and zero knowledge. Yes, that's right, I got sick of answering the phone and explaining the concept of drainage. Anyway, if you know someone who needs help with a container garden, you can send them here first. Then they can call you.

It's great to see things busting out for 2010.


clipped on: 10.31.2010 at 08:05 pm    last updated on: 10.31.2010 at 08:05 pm

RE: Balcony evergreen vine zone 6B in container (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: nandina on 10.29.2010 at 03:17 pm in Container Gardening Forum

Terry, here are some thoughts that come to mind...

1. If you can arrange a trip out to the Long Island nurseries you should find the junipers mentioned there.

2. If your purchasing has to be on-line then order only from A top notch nursery that babies its plants and customers. You can send them a e-mail explaining that you plan to train junipers on trellises and you need plants with a number of leaders and they will work with you. I just skimmed through their on-line catalog (drool) and note that they carry Juniperus chinenses 'Blue Alps'. Perfect for your needs. Retains its green color all winter. All container grown plants can be planted at any time of the year.

2. Because the junipers are not fast growers suggest that you intersperse them with pots in which you could grow deciduous shrubs that are attractive in the winter months. The following are available at the same nursery, Salix alba 'Flame', Viburnum carlesii (fantastic bloom fragrance) and Lonicera x Mandarin PP#11,083. The latter is a beautiful all summer blooming vine to be trellised and is considered invasive but you are growing in the concrete jungle so it should not be a problem. This assortment plus five junipers plus pots of annuals should be a good beginning for you. See how this works out.

3. Take some time to study the Winter Sowing Forum. It is an easy method which will allow you to grow annuals inexpensively.

4. Strongly suggest the following. You will need some method of securing branches and vines. The most permanent, easy to use type that I have found is a heavy duty, single-wrap Velcro. Strong, durable, attractive, almost unnoticed, sold in a green color, holds through hurricanes as I can attest. It will probably be easier for you to order it on-line from Another customer friendly company.


clipped on: 10.29.2010 at 07:41 pm    last updated on: 10.29.2010 at 07:42 pm

RE: Balcony evergreen vine zone 6B in container (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: nandina on 10.28.2010 at 07:56 am in Container Gardening Forum

Terry, here is the answer I wrote you several days ago which disappeared suddenly and never posted. Life on GardenWeb can sometimes be frustrating. But, welcome to the Forums! Now, let's see if this old retired pro can help you.

Greenman suggested exactly what I had written about; "...a snaking type of conifer that could be woven and pruned...".
This is the best option to meet your needs and the following two common types should be very available in your area nurseries. Either Bar Harbor juniper (Juniperus horizontalis 'Bar Harbor') or Shore Juniper (Juniperus conferta). Many nurseries sell these junipers potted in large sizes and already secured to a strong trellis, for a price. Or, if you decide to purchase younger plants select ones with a number of leads (branches). These types of juniper can live for years in the same pot against adverse conditions in soil which drains well and are happy with a handful of slow release fertilizer in early spring. It will be many years before these get "woody and heavy" and thoughtful pruning and training help to prevent it.

If you are growing morning glories presently then you should be able to plan out annual container grown color from early spring to late fall. There are some wonderful ideas both in books written about balcony gardens and also searching, balcony gardens + NYC.


clipped on: 10.29.2010 at 07:42 pm    last updated on: 10.29.2010 at 07:42 pm