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RE: organizing cupboards (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: buehl on 03.18.2009 at 10:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

There are a lot of places that have cabinet/drawer organizers...not the least of which is Amazon! Others include...

www.organizeit.com
custominserts.com
www.ovisonline.com
www.kitchensource.com
www.cooking.com
www.spacesavers.com

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clipped on: 03.21.2009 at 05:36 pm    last updated on: 03.21.2009 at 05:37 pm

RE: a customer service rave for Lighting Direct (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mom2reese on 03.19.2009 at 06:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

Agreed! I bought thousands of dollars worth of plumbing and lighting from lightingdirect and faucetdirect (same parent company) for the house we just built. Their customer service is the best I've experienced with an online vendor. If you get a membership ($50), you can get even better pricing an what's advertised, and they price match.

I've had to return items/get replacements, and they were a pleasure to deal with every time.

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clipped on: 03.21.2009 at 05:06 pm    last updated on: 03.21.2009 at 05:07 pm

RE: For those of you with white cabinets and white subway tile... (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: worldmom on 01.01.2009 at 10:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

VJ,

I wanted to post a couple of links to Anchor Bay's colors. You can order samples for $2 apiece ($10 shipping, regardless of number). They're all handmade tiles; some are crackled, some are beveled, some are 2x4, some are 3x6, and some lines come in more colors than others. (I think we're doing Soho bisque with a celery listello).

http://www.AnchorBayTile.com/Claypads-Tile-Liners-Listellos-p/300clp1201.htm (46 colors for this particular one)

http://www.AnchorBayTile.com/Clayline-Ceramic-Subway-Tile-Trim-p/310cll1750.htm (60 for this one)

http://www.AnchorBayTile.com/Cardiff-Ceramic-Subway-Tile-2x4-p/230crdf.htm (6 for this one)

http://www.AnchorBayTile.com/Soho-Ceramic-Subway-Tile-Trim-p/221sohf.htm (4 for this one)

I'm not trying to push this company on you or anything, but they do have a few whites to choose from. They're great for me since I'm hours from a real tile showroom. It's fun to look at Ann Sacks' website, for example, but I have no way to actually order any of that stuff. I love that this is a direct order site.

Anyway - I think you're wise to make a reasonable effort to get the two whites to go together (like not putting a cool one against a warm one if you can help it), but like Mary said upthread, it's not even possible to match all your whites and you'll drive yourself bonkers if you try. I know our fireclay sink is a different white than our tile and cabs, but at some point, I have to say that white is white and that's good enough for me. ;o)

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good link
clipped on: 03.08.2009 at 12:24 pm    last updated on: 03.08.2009 at 12:24 pm

RE: For those of you with white cabinets and white subway tile... (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: kittymerr on 12.31.2008 at 08:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

Not to stress you more... But I too have cream (antique) white cabinets, and soapstone. I have looked at subways in every shade of white. I have found many that are close I am not for matching either but also see how the stark white does not go with the cream unless your walls are stark white perhaps. Look at Sonoma tile, they have many shades of white so does Meredith tile, their iron gate series (I posted the link to them). Most come in subway shape. I have been paralyzed with no backsplash for 4 years! I am about to post again looking for help. Because my walls are deep tan, I am at the moment leaning toward calacutta mosaic that has a creamy background with subtle warm tan and grey veining as opposed to too white or grey, OR a slab of it behind my cooktop, kind of a show piece area and I don't want to over do it or under do it. I think my family will tease me endlessly if I just do white subway there. Though I know that would look just fine... Good Luck! Let us know what you choose.

Here is a link that might be useful: meredith tile

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goog link
clipped on: 03.08.2009 at 12:18 pm    last updated on: 03.08.2009 at 12:18 pm

RE: IKEA Farmhouse Sink- Pics & Opinions please! (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: reedrune on 02.26.2009 at 10:22 am in Kitchens Forum

Not sure if this link will work - http://www.ikeafans.com/forums/photos/17416-photos-punching-out-second-hole-24-apron-front-domsjo.html

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clipped on: 02.28.2009 at 02:27 pm    last updated on: 02.28.2009 at 02:27 pm

RE: IKEA Farmhouse Sink- Pics & Opinions please! (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: bmorepanic on 02.25.2009 at 07:27 am in Kitchens Forum

The people next door have a Domsjo and like it. They also drilled out two extra holes and it looks great - after two years.

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clipped on: 02.26.2009 at 10:06 am    last updated on: 02.26.2009 at 10:06 am

RE: IKEA Farmhouse Sink- Pics & Opinions please! (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: justnotmartha on 02.22.2009 at 06:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

We drilled an additional hole into an IKEA bath sink a couple years ago and it worked great! Put painters tape down and drill over it to prevent nicks and splintering, and buy a bit that is just the size you need. Go slow and you'll be set.

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clipped on: 02.22.2009 at 06:58 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2009 at 06:58 pm

RE: range hood duct size question (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: davidro1 on 02.13.2009 at 11:57 am in Kitchens Forum

I have seen 5" duct before. Yes, the blower will work ever better, with a larger duct than spec'd. Faster startup and less air flow noise at startup and at steady state. Without studying this company's products, I'd say they must have decided long ago to target the market niche of people who have little space for ducting.

A friend of mine put a length of 5" duct in his new kitchen. He has consulted Consumer Reports and ASHRAE documents, and yesterday he ordered a CR-recommended Broan product designed for a 6" duct and producing just under 300 CFM. Undersizing his duct for a few feet doesn't scare him since Broan has other products sending 500 CFM down a 6" duct. He is a mechanical engineer who has designed turbine blades for a living so he knows how to calculate air flow, air pressure, friction losses and much more. According to him, it's amazing how much air they can send down a duct these days, so he is comfortable undersizing his kitchen duct for a few feet.

So sending 800 CFM down a 5" is quite a feat but doesn't sound impossible to me, thinking intuitively, not based on experience.

Do you need 800 CFM? According to n AHRAE article, it all depends on "plume size" whether you need a lot more than the average 200 to 400 CFM kitchen air extraction. With 40000 BTU gas, if two burners are running hard it makes a plume much much smaller than all four burners on High; then you would need to plan for more, like, say, 600 CFM and makeup air. It's insane to plan for an air flow so ridiculously high that it pumps heat out of your house and even risks sucking the flame back out of your furnace.

A 6" duct on a system designed for 4" or 5" duct will make it perform better.

HTH
-david

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clipped on: 02.13.2009 at 12:52 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2009 at 12:52 pm

Detailed Hood info (construction etc for VIC)

posted by: igloochic on 12.02.2008 at 07:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

Vic I'm sorry this took so long. I have a child who is ill and sometimes he pulls me away from getting anything done for weeks. So I'm a bit behind...but here are the hood details:

First finished product from front and side:

And today I crawled up on the counter and took some more pics so you could see the guts and the top in it's finished product mode:

I wanted to show the inside and underside pics as well as the top so you could see the way the trim is formed on the base of the piece (the two lower pieces). The top is regular 3" crown, but these are 2 1/2 (actually it's in metric but that's close) and they're solid wood. You need that so you don't have a gap on the bottom edge and the top because if you did, there would be nothing much to hook it on with, and it would look ugly as well as collect dust and grime below.

The lip was added to the hood insert to give somewhere for the trim to sit on.

In one pic you can see tht the granite frame for the chickens extends into the hood. I did that because it was necessary to make a good frame and keep the chickens above the stove. My tile guy just had to shave them so they wouldn't be "Standing proud" out from the debth of the mosaic

The insert itself is just a regular old vent a hood, remade by my metal shop to fit the size of our stove. It's 27 x 58.

Th hood itself is constructed of marine plywood, then the top portion that has plaster on it is also covered in drywall, then plaster. The face was left wood to give me a nice surface for the granite to adhear to. The whole thing is attached to studs in the wall, and hung from the rafters on big chains. SIx guys did pull ups on it..it's not going anywhere!

This is a picture of it when it had just a start on the plaster and drywall was on the top:

At this point, I broke my arm and had to hire a pro to finish the plaster :oP

And here it is all naked:

The measurements are: 3" crown molding and 2 1/2" trim molding around the face top and bottom. The granite is 9" x 18" (left overs)

The top portion of the hood, from the ceiling to the end of the sloped area where the first of the trims is attached is 26" The very top flat area is 18 deep by 40 wide. The bottom is 27x 58 without the trim and 28 1/2 x 61ish with the trim measured in. Your slope is the natural slope from the 40 to the 58. THat flat area on the wood only portion of the hood shell was 12" tall.

Anything else???? I hope that helped.
Iggy

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clipped on: 02.10.2009 at 07:57 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2009 at 07:57 pm

RE: IKEA cabs w/ an old world feel? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: bbstx on 02.10.2009 at 11:24 am in Kitchens Forum

Someone, maybe writersblock?, posted these links to film clips about upgrading Ikea cabinets. Maybe you'll find something useful in the film clips. I think they said the clips will not play on a Mac.

Here are a couple of video links about upgrading the look of ikea cabs:

http://www.cityline.ca/video/2007/08/khachi_ikea_kitchen_makeover_cut1.wvx

http://www.cityline.ca/video/2007/08/khachi_ikea_kitchen_makeover_cut2.wvx

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clipped on: 02.10.2009 at 07:47 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2009 at 07:47 pm

RE: What is your Budget ? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: msjay2u on 01.20.2009 at 03:43 pm in Remodeling Forum

it sounds to me like they are asking you how much you want to spend so they can feel you out for how much they can suck out of you. I would never do business like that. I also do most of my own work however, there are times when I need someone to do some jobs for me. I buy the major materials and give them a very good description of what I want and ask them for a detailed WRITTEN bid. I also make contingencies. For example I had some one come in to do my bathroom. The job entailed ripping out the walls, putting in cement board, preparing the walls for paint and tile and putting in trim. I did my own caulking, tile and painting. I had some contingencies in there like moving a light switch and adding the vanity and fixtures. So I called several contractors up and told them to give me a bid on ripping out the walls, disposal fee, permit fees, putting up the new walls, picking up the materials for me etc. If you are doing some of your own work make sure you let them know what you are willing to do (all the painting, caulking, nothing etc). I asked them for a detailed list of the supplies they would need from me as well. You can shop around for the supplies later. (I meet them at the store for the big stuff to pay for the materials they need and pick the rest up myself), then I told them to tell me how much extra it would cost to move the light socket and put in the fixtures. I also told them to specify on the written bids when they can start, how long it would take and the payment terms. Since I usually buy all the materials, I do not pay until the job is finished and ask them if they have a problem with that. If it is a small job they shouldn't have a problem but I have had larger jobs done and I pay them half after half the job is done. I do not give them ANY indication of how much I am willing to spend, I do not share with them the amounts of anyone else's bids either and I make it clear they are not to do anything that is going to cost more once the bid is accepted without letting me know and see. I also ask them in advance if they see any problems that might come up and how much it would cost if it does come up (for example once they ripped my walls out what if there was rotted wood). You can negotiate once you have all the bids in. You have to be firm with contractors. Give them the perception that you know what you are doing even if you don't. I also make it clear they are to clean up everyday before they leave and I make sure they have a vacuum, broom and garbage bags available to do so. I don't usually tell them "you have to clean up before you leave" I usually say I left a broom, and some bags for your clean up today, is there anything else you need? If they mess anything up I make sure they know they fix it before getting paid. They will never come back once you pay them.

This has worked out good for me so far. Once you get a few estimates you get a feel for prices. I don't usually use suppliers labor. You can price your own cabinets, tile, windows or whatever and mostly get bids for the labor and contingencies on their supplies. Sometimes they can suggest places to check for your supplies but check other places as well. I had a guy say they he needed trim and produced a receipt for trim for double the amount. Luckily I caught it before he used it. I told him to take it back and I will buy my own. He tried to say he paid $9 for a 10' piece of lattice trim at lowes and showed me a receipt. I went to lowes and brought the same exact trim for $3.96! I have no idea what his receipt was for but it was not for that piece of lattice trim from Lowes. He tried me a couple of times but after I showed him that he can not play these games we got on the right track.

You do run into problems when you call for an estimate and do not know what you want. I find it is better if you have a very clear idea of what you want but can be flexible if they give you better ideas. When you get all your estimates you might change your mind on some things based on other contractors ideas.

Also another ti. if you go pick out something like carpet and they say they will pick up later make sure you get the name and manuf of the carpet AND a sample. Some contractors will try to find similar items cheaper and pass it off on you. I had a friend who they did this to. She picked out a carpet and when they put it in she got out her sample and realized it was not the same carpet. She made him rip it out and go get the right carpet. He tried to give her a discount on the carpet but it was not what she wanted. He was pissed but had to do it if he wanted to get paid.

So to sum before they ask what is your budget you tell them you are seeking bids and will go with the most fair bid. You can say you already have a couple of bids but be a poker face. Of course they will tell you they will meet or beat anyones price then you can ask, so are you saying you did not give me your best bid?

Never say I have no idea how much this should cost. Say you have a budget in mind and are getting bids, you are ready to get it done in such and such a time frame and your decision depends on the bids you get, the references you obtain and other factors so lets get to the bid.

Make sure you also check their references by looking at their work and call the permit dept, give them the address they give you and ask them if there were permits, and who the contractor was. It is not unusual for contractors to lie about work they were supposed to do. When you call permitting ask them also if they failed any inspections on that job. They will usually read you the notes over the phone. It is public record. You can also ask for the inspector to call you if you want to.

Also make sure you get a copy of their insurance. Never let anyone do any jobs without insurance and verifying that it is valid.

Also make sure you check on them as the job goes along.

These are lessons I learned along the way. I know it is a lot of work but it is less work then double paying for a job, taking someone to court or getting ripped off. Unfortunately unscrupulous people made it hard for others and quite honestly I do not have the money to get ripped off.

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good stuff to know on hiring a contractor
clipped on: 01.29.2009 at 06:08 pm    last updated on: 01.29.2009 at 06:08 pm

RE: Ikea Kitchens. Am I missing something? (Follow-Up #54)

posted by: davidro1 on 01.23.2009 at 02:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

What I have found in general about IKEA Kitchens:

Adds useable space to a kitchen by going frameless.
Sleek full overlay look; Euro-style metabox drawer.
Ikea's $ priority is hardware (hinges, sliders).
Full extension drawers, and soft close doors / drawers.
Dampers ARE available for the 153 degree hinges, not from IKEA, but from a Blum hardware rep.
A flat fluorescent light panel can replace the floor of the 30" and the 39" upper cabinets. (It's an IKEA Rationell lighting product).
Tall wall oven cabinets are the same depth as base cabinets.
Cabinet sides are joined by cam locks and dowels.
Finishing quality is good.
Backs are not solid and that is fine, A-OK.
The Depth of an IKEA cabinet can be cut back to less than 22" deep because the sliders are not longer than 21.5" (Mod not warrantee'd by IKEA).
White face frames can be dealt with pretty easily.
To Use Available Space under the 30"high Base Cabinets, put drawer boxes between the legs and cover the front as you wish.
Drawer fronts come in 6" / 6.25" / 11.25" + 12.75" / 12"+12" heights.
A 15" high ("deep") drawer front can be made from a 15"x30" door turned sideways.
Steep learning curve not friendly for first-timers, to uncover the above info.
Ordering and assembly is easy, even with modifications and customizing orders (deselecting components, adding others).
Regardless of images seen on the web or in store documents, anything can be bought separately.
--- Except for certain drawer fronts which come only in kits of 4 (and not 4 of the same).
--- Except for the drawer front facing which you need for interior drawers: these are specific hardware pieces connected to the remaining portion of the drawer; these must be specified to be included in orders for interior drawers.

... and still learning:

You can make your own Pull-Outs (18"w, 21"w, 24"w, 30"w, 36"w)
--- Also, you can install a wire basket instead of an interior drawer.
--- Also, you can install a Variera "pullout basket" instead of an interior drawer. E.g. under a sink, depending on shape of sink.
A Pull-Out can have 2 Attached drawers instead of just One. The Top one's attachment can be removable, with compatible Blum hardware, not available from IKEA. (See Blum site).

To get a Two-Level Cutlery Drawer, put a shallow interior drawer inside a regular drawer.

Some Finishing Panels are 3/8" thick, some 1/2", some 5/8", some 3/4".

To get a handle-less look
A.) Use Strecket handles, or make your own handles even more discrete than Strecket.
B.) Use no handles and plan for only two high drawers, with a gap above the top drawer.
The gap allows one to reach the top of the drawer front in order to pull from there.
Under the lower drawer one uses a foot to pull that drawer. Not optimal but it works.
C.) Use Solar drawer fronts.

Please confirm or comment if anything above is inaccurate or not true. Thank you for your comments!

--
David

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clipped on: 01.26.2009 at 06:59 pm    last updated on: 01.26.2009 at 07:03 pm