Be sure that when you are planning how much you're putting in the drawer that you remember to factor in the weight of the drawer itself (this is surprisingly heavy! I believe that I've read on here that 36" drawers can be 35-ish lbs.

So, while the "no cast iron" is a worthwhile caution, I think that it may be possible to still do it as long as you know in advance where you're putting it AND you take precautions.

house

I did cover the floors with Ram board (like thin cardboard on a roll, but water resistant) after the two top coats. The inspector, carpenters installing a house full of trim and doors, electrician, cab maker, wood floor company, painting company doing trim and doors,and plumber were all impressed with the board. All those guys and tools tromping in and out over months did zero damage to the floors.

Out of curiosity Jakuvall - what do you think is a better # for the hold back? I'm interested to know b/c it may have changed since I redid my kitchen or since it was last discussed on this site. I think you do have to hold back some b/c otherwise the KD is most likely going to plan right to the budget with none left over for emergencies.

Spend most of the time having them show the things you want to learn, what you get for this much $ and what you get for that. Leave them the plan and list to price. Tell them NOT to design anymore than they need, just to price as you want a clear relative baseline. Ask when you can expect to hear from them with the info. Tell them when you expect to make a decision by.

If any turn out unsatisfactory go to the next one on your list-started with 6 , only used 3.

You will now know a lot about cabinets, have seen finishes and details, and most important have begun to get a good idea of who you might like to work with and relative pricing . With a little luck have found one. Again if you have not found a good fit go back to the list.

You will get more value from the right person than the right brand.
As with most things reading is nice, experiencing better.
If you found someone you now have an asset as you move forward.

One caveat- it is human nature to look for reasons NOT to buy. It is easier to find reason to elimate- Try to keep that instinct in check until you know who is right for you.

wood

In my business when selecting a brand for a price point-
I will only carry brands that: use Blum or Grass drawer glides, and have no Chinese ply at any price.

-Basic semi custom will have pocket hole frames
-Mid will have doweled frames (frames not the doors) better grading and finish (though my semi has a great finish and unusually good grading for the price)
-At the hi end custom, I expect mortise and tenon frames, superior finish, grading and some very nice details and absolute flexibility to design doors get any wood or finish and impeccable delivery.

-In all I expect as much flexibility as I need to design, even my basic semi brand will do sizing to 1/8". (like all designers I'm a spoiled child ;->

-For frameless I expect doweled boxes at every price, melamine is fine. I don't think ply is a big deal on frameless but clients want it at some point. Personally I think it is a waste of money.
(I have yet to find a basic" price frameless I consider suitable but just added a line and discovering more about it's pricing now so will see. One can hope)
- At some point I start to look for NAUF- no added urea formaldehyde as an option.

All that said- who you work with, both designer and installer, is far more important than the details of construction. Hollysprings will often point out that a good designer can take a soso line and make it look and work like a million bucks. A bad installer can butcher a kitchen even with the best cabinets made.

If this is new construction you want to order your cabinets when they start to sheet rock. You want to have your design finalized well before, preferably before framing (if you can find a designer who will work that way) but definitely before electric.

1. Does the KD actually listen to you when you tell her/him your needs/wants/etc.?

   Is s/he paying attention, taking notes, and, ultimately when s/he gives you a rough design has s/he taken your desires into account (i.e., didn't just throw a generic plan together to get a quote)?

   If the KD is not paying attention and taking your needs/want into account (after all, it's your kitchen and you are paying the KD) when the KD is trying to get the sale, it will not get better later!

   I know Jakuvall says you don't need the detailed plan yet, but you need something to indicate whether the KD is someone who will listen to you and not just do what s/he wants. We ran into that when we planned our remodel. Needless to say, those KDs were quickly eliminated from our short list.

2. Does the KD respect your budget? There have been numerous posts here about KDs going over budget (often by 100% or more) with the estimate! When giving them your budget, reduce it by 15% to 20% b/c you will most likely need that for surprises (even a new build may have surprises), appliances/fixtures/hardware more expensive than anticipated or b/c you wanted to upgrade, and things just costing more than the estimate indicated.
3. Do you and the KD "click" - i.e., do you appear to work together well? Even the best KDs may not work with everyone well - it's more a matter of personalities and, in some cases, "taste" in color/designs.

When you get that estimate, btw, be sure you're comparing apples-to-apples and not apples-to-bananas. Some lines that may appear more expensive may not be b/c they have standard items (like soft-close drawers) that other lines charge extra for. So, be sure you know what the estimates include. If one is missing something or another has something extra b/c it's standard & you want it, you need to take that into account. (If the latter has something extra as standard that's something you don't want or don't care about, then let the estimate stand as-is; if something you want is not in another estimate, then you need to find out what it will add to that estimate.)

Most KDs have a variety of cabinet lines - ranging from budget/builder-grade through semi-custom and custom, so you will probably find what you're looking for with most KDs. However, to ensure you do, after you've winnowed down your list to the top 2 or 3 KDs, look at what they offer - does one have a door style or finish that you like that the other does not? Does one have more options? etc...

I understand that you're in a hurry, but taking the time needed up-front will save you possible issues, problems, and angst later on. The earlier in the process that you find problems, the less costly and time-consuming it is to fix them.

Good luck!

This post was edited by buehl on Mon, May 27, 13 at 14:07

Mixing them up is a wonderful sensory experience.

Here are a few that I do myself:

Apple Pie Blend
� cup (or 24 parts) cinnamon
1 tablespoon (or 6 parts) allspice
2 teaspoon (or 4 parts) nutmeg
� teaspoon (or 1 part) cardamom, optional

Pumpkin Pie Blend
� cup (or 24 parts) cinnamon
2 tablespoon (or 12 parts) ginger
2 teaspoon (or 4 parts) ground cloves
1 teaspoon (or 2 parts) nutmeg
� teaspoon (or 1 part) cardamom, optional

Curry Blend
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) cayenne
� cup (or 8 parts) granulated garlic
� cup (or 12 parts) paprika
� cup (or 4 parts) turmeric
1 � cup (or 24 parts) curry powder

Mexican Rub for Pork
1 teaspoon granulated garlic
1 teaspoon cumin
� teaspoon (or 8 parts) epizote
� teaspoon (or 8 parts) kosher salt
� teaspoon (or 4 parts) freshly ground black pepper
� teaspoon (or 4 parts) ground cloves
⅛ teaspoon (or 2 parts) oregano
1 pinch (or 1 part) cinnamon

Emeril's "Essence"
2 � tablespoon paprika
2 tablespoon (or 2 parts) salt
2 tablespoon (or 2 parts) garlic powder
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) black pepper
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) onion powder
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) cayenne
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) dried oregano
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) dried thyme

Combine all ingredients thoroughly and store in an airtight jar or container.

It's more about the KD and the relationship that you have with that person than it is about price.

A good KD can give you the kitchen that you want in numerous cabinet lines. If you want what 80% of everyone does these days, shaker cabinets, then every single line on the planet can give you that. You can buy 3K worth of Chinese cabinets at a discount warehouse, or you can buy 10K worth of stock cabinets from a box store, or you can buy 18K worth of semi-custom cabinets from a design shop, or you can buy 30K worth of cabinets from a full custom cabinet maker. They will all give you "the look" that you're going for.

No, I'm not saying that 3K worth of Chinese cabinets in limited sizes and styles can give you the "same" kitchen that 30K from a custom artisan can. Not at all. There are huge differences in construction quality and wood quality used there. The two kitchens will only superficially resemble each other. Like the old high/low design exercises that were in Metropolitan Home. There will still be huge differences between the two. What you need to decide is what those differences and costs bring to the table for you. And that's where the KD can help you to understand the value for the money spent.

It usually comes down to a quality of materials and construction and finishing increase as you go up the price ladder. Some features are worth paying more money for. For some people. Some people put budget first. Those are actually the easiest people to satisfy. It's always easy to give someone the absolute cheapest option without any thought or creativity having to be exercised.

So, if you came into my shop with a basic layout and a list of cabinets wanting a quote, what would happen? I would give you exactly what you asked for! Give me the list, and the specs, and I can put you into a cabinet line and quote you exactly what you're asking for in about 15 minutes. That will let you compare prices for the same layout. Then, I'd tell you what's missing from the other quote (most don't include moldings, drawer pulls, toekick, finished sides and other needed pieces that add up to about 15% more than the "cabinet" quote.). Then, I'd tell you what I'd do differently with your layout, and if you'd leave me a copy, I'd work on it a bit in the quoted line and give you a price to be able to compare a better layout in the same line. At that second meeting with the better kitchen, I'd tell you how the line that you are in compares to the other lines that I carry and why you might be interested in better quality for not much more money, or maybe a less costly line that could give you more for your money. Then, if you wanted a third meeting, it's retainer time. No documents leave my hands until you pay me a retainer. I'll verbally give you a price and show you the renderings, but you don't get any copies of anything to take home until you decide you want to go to the prom with me.

As far as staining goes, the granite needs to be sealed well. Spills should be cleaned up as they happen when at all possible. Any that sit and have penetrated the granite can be remedied with a poultice made of original blue Dawn dishwashing detergent and flour. We've been in our house 16 months and we're not the neatest people when cooking, we have kids so they are not the neatest when eating and I would not say we baby our granite or treat it any differently than we did our old laminate (other than the lesson learned from pie crusts-story below). I think just about everything has been spilled on the granite and the only problems we've had have been Crisco penetrating the granite (Note to self: Don't roll out 5 double pie crusts in row directly on the granite), and an incident with a Wal-Mart bag that was set down in a puddle of condensation from a glass and sat for a day or two. The water mixed with the blue dye from the logo penetrated the granite and left a blue circle about the diameter of a glass. We applied the poultice and it came right out.

Hope this helps!

We originally had a divider from the cabinet maker but I recently switched over to bamboo boxes from BBB. They are very sturdy and they can be lifted out individually if I want to put a bunch silverware on the counter when we serve buffet style. The boxes are deep and sturdy. We had an adjustable (width) divider in another drawer but I got rid of it pretty quickly because it wasted a lot of vertical space with the design and the individual cubbies were too shallow for my needs.

The boxes added up and ended up being pricey but I loved them so much I bought them for 6 other drawers in the kitchen. The money spent on the bones of the kitchen isn't worth it if the hard working areas aren't as functional as they can be.

Here is a link that might be useful: AJ Madison Induction

Spray. Scrub. Wipe. And...

Holy toothpaste, Batman!

The window is so clear it looks like it evaporated, like it does not exist. Open air. You could put your hand through.

The mirror is eerie. It shows no surface dust to give you a clue it exists. It really looks like there is an opening into another room and there's a strange guy standing in that room. Oh crud, do I really look like that?

I love it, and it does an amazing job!

Sure. As DCJersey says, there are numbers of induction ranges that cost less than $3k and several that cost less than $2k. AJ Madison is indeed an excellent place to check out the offerings.

For less than $2k, the current choices for induction in ranges for the US are all freestanding models:

(a) A couple of Samsung NOPBSR models: one is roughly $1300 (NE595NOPBSR) and the other is $1600 (NE597NOPBSR) at AJ Madison. I looked at the 597 pretty seriously several months ago and have posted about it (including in a thread DCJersey started a couple of months ago.) The NE597 looked like a pretty good deal, but Samsung has not been in the US market long enough to have developed much of a track record for judging long term reliability and parts availability. That can give some people pause. Also, people have reported problems with Samsung's outsourced warranty service on other other Samsung products. Consumer Reports rates Samsung highly for cooktop and oven performance, slightly behind GE's induction stoves. There is no data yet about Samsung electrical stoves in CR's annual membership product reliability surveys.

(b) Some Whirlppool branded products (a Whirlpool, a Maytag and a KitchenAid). The Whirlpool and Maytag have unusual burner arrangements (small burners up front with the burner control pad betweent them). The Kitchenaid looks like it might be outsourced and rebranded from Electrolux/Frigidaire or maybe even Samsung. The criticism of the WP products is that their only oven self-cleaning is a "steam clean" function which reportedly does not work very well. (I wound up buying an NXR gas stove and use the steam-clean technique, which requires wiping out (if not scrubbing) the oven with a blue Scotch-brite scrubbing sponge. It is not bad but, then, NXR does not claim to have a self-cleaning oven function.)

(c) Frigidaire FPIF3093LF, which seems to be a decent range for about $1700. (BTW, Frigidaire is a division of Electrolux). CR's membership surveys show GE/Hotpoint electric stoves as reliability champs witho 4% and 6% defect ratea. Frigidaire, by comparison, is significantly higher with a higher, 10% defect rate for electrical stoves. Not sure how that affects induction stoves because there are no breakouts for induction stoves. Some reviews on other forums and vendor sites. Reviews are are mostly very positive. Nobody seems have posted here at GW about the Frigidaire induction range, though. It has a different layout and a larger oven than the more expensive ELectrolux/Kenmore corporate brandmates. No performance rating from Consumer Reports, yet.

(d) GE will (sometime soon) be releasing the GE Profile PHP915 induction range which seems to be a slightly less-feature rich version of the PHP/PHS925 models which have been very highly rated here on GW and which are Consumer Reports' highest rated stoves. Not clear when this stove will reach the market. Some sites have said Marhc and others have said August.

For induction ranges in the $2k to $3k range, the choices currently are:

(a) GE Profile PHP925 (freestanding) and PHS925 (slide-in) which are very highly thought of here.

(b) Samsung NE599NOPBSR which is available in Canada, but not on the US side of the border. There have been a couple of postings about quality control problems here.

(c) Kenmore freestanding and and slide-in induction stoves (made for Sears by Electrolux) and pretty well thought of although there were some quality control problems with the intial production runs a couple of years ago. Mostly postive reviews since then, but not many reviews.

(d) Electrolux Wavetouch EW30IF60IS freestanding range. Been inproduction for several years and mostly pretty well reviewed although Consumer Reports testing seemed to downrate its oven functions.

As hollysprings and fori suggest, you have a more choices if you can go with a separate cooktop and wall oven. There are numbers of such combinations that will cost less than $3k, assuming you've got the electrical wiring already in place to handle the higher demands of separate units. Some combos may cost less than $2k. My kitchen electrical would not readily accomodate the power needs of a separate cooktop and oven, so I did not research this approach when I was recently shopping for a new stove. Again, though, the suggestion to cruise through AJ MAdison is good one for finding your options and getting a handle on pricing.

>>>"What about combining a good gas range with a smaller induction hob?"<<<

It certainly can be done for less than $3k or even $2k -- heck, maybe even less that $1k --- depending on what you have in mind as as a "good" gas range and what did you have in mind for a "smaller" induction hob and how you want your kitchen laid out.

A small hob might mean one of the portable hotplate models like the Max Burton/Athena, Aroma, or Vollrath models. These are hotplates. These run from under $100 to around $250. They'll give you speed of adjustment and low level simmering. But, as Yebo said, it's still only hot plate. No really rapid boiling or the other "magic of high power induction.

Or, you can get 240v induction hobs from the likes of Cooktek. They can be had in drop-in versions (i.e., a mini induction cooktop that drops into a cut-out on a countertop like any other smoothop cooktop, only smaller. They can be had in self-contained "portable" hobs. They look like Incredible Hulk verisons of hot plates. (BIIIGGG!!!) I used a a Cooktek unit for a while and it would heat a cast iron pan hot enough to melt lead. (That's roughly 620F, IIRC). More than enough power to do all the high-heat induction magic. They are made for commercial applications so they are tough and and dead-bang reliable. A single burner costs around $750, so as expensive as some decent gas stoves. Because they need a 240v outlet, these units are not really portable in any sense that most of us would recognize. But maybe that's what you want?

This post was edited by JWVideo on Wed, Jan 16, 13 at 2:15

If they look very different from evening to morning, your lighting is probably warm white (3000K) vs natural daylight 5000-6500K (if overcast). If your counter only looks good in warm white light, scrap it because it will look horrible during the daytime (can't really change the color temp of the sky). Choose one that looks good in the daytime and change your bulbs to daylight white bulbs, about 5000K. This will ensure consistent perceptual color. I personally love the color temperature of my "bright white" LED bulbs, about 4500K, not too warm, not too cool.

Incidentally, you mention photos and editing; digital cameras are heavily affected by the white balance of your lighting.

I didn't know anything about quartzite. All I knew is what I wanted. I wanted a marble look with no hassle and happened to find the right color, look when I found the White Fantasy. Some where there is a thread and stonegirl answers all these questions. Don't know if it is still around. Try a search for stonegirl!

Sold at HD under their "Commercial Electric" brand.

I think you might reconsider the upper corner cabs. I had a 15'' deep D-shaped upper corner cab and the shelves were indeed cavernous and inaccessible.

Below is a link I posted to my solution. The super susan shelves are a wonderful solution, much better than I expected, and that corner cabinet now holds a huge amount of absolutely accessible ''stuff''.

I don't know the floor plan of your kitchen, but even though you are gaining a huge amount of storage space (as I did), we TKO folks always need more.

So, 3 considerations based on two of my pet ideas:
1. Have 2 extra adjustable shelves made for the upper cabs. Most upper cabinets have lots of wasted VERTICAL space and/or stacks of unlike items that are hard to access. More shelves can eliminate this.
2. Use 15'' deep upper cabs over counters where you will not do extensive prep. That extra 3'' allows so much more storage.
3. D-shaped corner upper cabs with susans on every shelf. Be SURE the cab maker fits the susans properly to use ever inch of the space.

(If I remember correctly, my 15'' corner cabinet is actually a 26'' square with the front corner cut off. The susans I put in are 24'' susans. That means that each of the four shelves hold just short of 4 sq. feet of stuff for a total of a bit less than 16 sq. feet of absolutely accessible storage in that one corner.)

Here is a link that might be useful: Using ever inch of upper cab storage

Think your winning there.

I regularly calculate real shelf space and what fits where for clients.

On a mac press command+shift+3 for the whole screen, or command+shift+4 and drag over part of the screen. The screenshot appears on your desktop as a png file named after the time it was taken.

All fridges will keep things cold. A top quality fridge will keep things just right.

This post was edited by Autumn.4 on Tue, Feb 5, 13 at 16:54

Also, remember that the darker your surfaces (counters, cabinets, flooring), the more general lighting you need because light will be absorbed rather than reflected.

Here is a link that might be useful: Sink Setter

brackets

Right side

Left side

Sink from above

My kitchen cabinets from UltraCraft are semi-custom. LOVE them. They are Frameless cabinets that allow size modifications in 1/16" increments to height, width, and depth (or all 3) at no additional cost. So, go ahead and make your uppers 13" or 14" deep for those extra large mixing/salad bowls and charger plates, and maximize your storage space by storing glasses 4 deep instead of 3 deep. Make your toekick shorter so you have more drawers height and/or have deeper base cabinets. Cut down on the fillers you need by making your cabinets the exact width you need them, instead of being forced to choose from 3" increments. I like that all my uppers are flat across the bottom (no frame/dividers between cabinets), so I could install one long plugmold and one long under cabinet light, then hide it all with lightrail at the front. Also, standard is Blum full extension soft close drawer glides, soft close doors, no charge for finished sides (like end of cabinet run), dovetail drawers with fully captured bottoms, and bunches of other stuff is standard. 100 year warranty. http://www.ultracraft.com/ LOVE them !!!

Cabinet Decisions - I narrowed down the decisions that need to be made for a friend ...
1. One of the first things to decide is what cabinet door overlay you want. Inset doors or overlay doors ? Inset doors sit inside of the cabinet box frame rather than in front of the cabinet box. Overlay is further broken down into traditional overlay, partial / modified overlay, and full overlay and determines how much of the cabinet box/frame behind the door you want to show. The overlay you choose will automatically knock out some cabinet options and cabinet mfgs who may not make that type of cabinet. (My cabinets are full overlay)
See ... http://www.kraftmaid.com/learn/choose-right-cabinetry/door-overlays/

2. Then you want to decide on the cabinet boxes … framed or frameless ? Some mfgs only make one or the other, but not both, so this will knock out other mfgs. Framed cabinets have a frame on the face of the cabinet box that the doors attach to and allows for inset doors as well as all 3 overlay styles (traditional, partial, and full overlay). On frameless, the doors attach directly to the cabinet box sides instead of a face frame. Frameless are typically full overlay, but inset is also possible. Partial overlay may be possible, but I am not sure about that. Traditional overlay is not possible on frameless. (My cabinets are frameless)
See ... http://www.cabinets.com/FORM/THE BOX - construction.asp

The disadvantage of framed is you give up useable space in drawers/pullouts and ease of access on cabinets with doors. This is because the drawer or pullout has to clear the face frame that goes around the opening, so they are narrower from side to side and also shallower from top to bottom. In a small kitchen, the extra useable space from frameless could make a big difference. Estimates say frameless gives 10-15% more space, so 100 inches of framed would be 110 inches in frameless. To me, an extra 10 inches of drawer space is huge, especially when you don't have much to begin with !! Frameless cabinets with doors also offer easier access - there is no face frame creating a 1-2" obstruction on the left, right, and top inside the cabinet doors, also there is typically no center stile between double doors in frameless.

For full overlay doors, there is very little difference in the looks of framed vs frameless. From an exterior appearance standpoint, these cabinets will basically look alike. Because the doors are full overlay, you don't see much or any of the frame and would have to open the door or drawer to see if the cabinet was framed or frameless. For inset doors, the framed cabinets would have a wider frame around the door than the frameless cabinet would.

In the below two pics, the cabinet on the left is framed, and the one on the right is frameless. Looking only at the size of the opening, see how the drawer for frameless is wider from left to right and also has more open space from top to bottom. The useable drawer space is a couple inches more in each direction in the frameless. If they both had the same size full overlay exterior drawer face on them, they would look alike from the exterior. You would not be able to see the useable interior space until you opened the drawer. If they both had inset doors, the framed cabinets would have a much wider "frame" around the door and drawer.

3. The third thing to consider is the door style you like, the drawer style (slab/flat drawer front or raised), as well as wood species (cherry, oak, maple, etc), and stain or paint colors, glazing, etc. This website shows some of the different door styles available ... http://www.cabinets.com/FORM/THE DOOR - style.asp

4. The fourth thing to consider is stock cabinets vs semi-custom vs custom cabinet mfgs. Stock cabinets are available in 3" width increments (cabinets have to be width of 12", 15", 18", etc), filler strips fill in gaps between cabinets and wall or appliances, you have to choose from the heights and depths they offer, and there are very few options available, which can be pretty pricey to add on. Semi-custom cabinets vary by manufacturer in what customizations and options they offer, but they offer many more options than stock and allow sizing modifications. With custom cabinets, there should be no limitations including drawings for non-standard items, custom molding profiles, door styles, alternate wood species, custom stains & finishes, construction, accessories and options.

5. Finally, you want to consider the cabinet construction. Not that this is the least important ! It is one of the most important things. Pretty much all the other stuff is just the "pretty" stuff, LOL. This has to do with how well the cabinets are made - are the drawers stapled, dowelled, glued, dovetail ? What materials are the cabinets made of ? etc, etc.

Drawer Heights
The height of my drawer fronts do not line up all the way around the 4 sides of my kitchen, but do line up when you are looking at any one section at a time. I have 2 stacks together that are 6-12-12 separated by a stove. On the opposite corner of the kitchen are 2 stacks that are 6-6-9-9. What helps is that my stacks are caddy-cornered across the kitchen with appliances and base cabinets with doors separating them ... it would be very hard to look in any direction where you could see the "mis-matches" at one time.

My one advice ... find out the interior useable height of your drawers ahead of time. My Ultracraft cabinets are frameless so have more than framed would. They have undermount glides. On the 6-12-12 stacks, the useable interior drawer height is 4, 10.5, 9.5 (top to bottom on stack). Where this becomes an issue ... I wanted to store all of my pans, pots, etc vertical on their edges in the drawers so they wouldn't have to be stacked. The middle 10.5" drawers are tall enough for all of the casserole/baking dishes and pie tins, the roasting pan, and almost all of the pans, pots, and lids to stand on edge (the 9.5" drawers are not tall enough for a few of those items to stand on edge). Both height drawers are definitely tall enough for all of the big pots (even the 8qt stockpot) that I own except the huge "canning" pot.

Obviously, neither drawer is tall enough for my 12" pans/skillets to stand on edge (arrggh!). I have really been struggling with how to store these. Right now I have them flat in the bottom of the 9.5" height bottom drawer. Big waste of real estate !! I wish I had a shallower drawer I could put the big skillets in, or either had made my drawer heights 6-9-15 which would have given me 4, 7.5, 12.5 useable. My tallest 8qt pots are 7" tall, so all of them could have gone in the middle drawer and everything on edge could have gone in the bottom drawer (including the 12" skillets!). Google for images of drawers with pans on edge.

On the other side of the kitchen with the 6-6-9-9 stacks, the useable interior drawer height is 4, 4.75, 6.75, 7 (top to bottom). I use the top 6" drawers all around the kitchen for silverware, spatulas and all the other kitchen gadgets, in-drawer knife block, foil wax paper cling wrap and plastic baggies, potholders, dish towels, etc. All of those things fit with no problem in these drawers including the ladle and the box grater. The 3rd drawer holds all of the tupperware and is the perfect height for this - 6 would have been too shallow and 12 would have been too deep. The bottom drawer is where we currently keep the paper and plastic grocery bags until we carry them for recycling.

(note: the interior drawer heights listed above vary slightly for the bottom two 12" drawers, for the top two 6" drawers, and for the bottom two 9" drawers because of an interior cross support.)

Drawer depths
My bases are 24" deep bases and are all 20" useable interior from front to back. I could have and should have requested the drawers be an extra 1-2 inches deep to fill up the inside of the cabinet. I *think* the full extension glides would not have pulled out that extra inch or so, but I could have lived with that !! I could have fit my 8qt stock pots 2 front to back in the drawer instead of having to offset them slightly if I had even an extra 1/2".

Drawer widths
The maximum cabinet width my manufacturer would do for drawer bases is 36" wide. I have 4 drawer bases at 21" wide 3 drawer, 32" 3 drawer, 17" 4 drawer, 36" 4 drawer. The interior useable width of these drawer bases are 18, 29, 14, 33 wide, so 3" less than the exterior width.

The 21" 3 drawer 6-12-12 is to the left of my stove. Top drawer holds knife block, sharpener, scissors, trivets, potholders. 2nd drawer holds baking dishes on their edge. Bottom drawer is basically empty - it has one 8qt stockpot.

The 32" 3 drawer 6-12-12 is to the right of the stove. Top drawer holds spatulas, spoons, ladles, wood spoons, basting brushes, meat thermometer, etc that are used at the stove. 2nd drawer holds frying pans, the smaller pots (1qt 2qt 3qt), and lids all on their edges. Bottom drawer holds 8qt pots. Also 12" skillets with lids, splatter screens, and griddle - all stacked in one stack flat in bottom of drawer, Grrrrrrr.

The 17" 4 drawer stack 6-6-9-9 is on the opposite corner of the kitchen next to the peninsula. The top drawer holds foil, wax paper, cling wrap, plastic baggies, chip clips, and restaurant menus. The 2nd drawer is our "junk" drawer and has some of everything including screwdrivers, clothespins, matches, flashlights, sewing kit, lint brush, etc. The 3rd drawer holds medicine, bandaids, alcohol, peroxide, as well as dish towels and plastic utensils from takeout restaurants in a tub. The bottom drawer is for tupperware without partners - bowls and lids with no matches.

The 36" 4 drawer stack 6-6-9-9 forms the peninsula. The top drawer holds all eating utensils (silverware and kid utensils), serving utensils, chopsticks, etc. The 2nd drawer holds all the other kitchen gadgets that aren't to the left and right of the stove like shrimp deveiners, graters, whisks, rolling pin, etc, etc. The 3rd drawer holds tupperware with their matching lids. The bottom drawer holds paper and plastic grocery bags until we carry them for recycling.

Handles
We went with the same size handle for all of our drawers and also only one handle for all of the drawers, no matter what the width of the drawer. They are 4" wide. We maybe would have used different widths, but the ones we liked in the finish we wanted did not come in a bunch of widths. The cabinet guy said they would look fine and they do. We have slab drawer fronts and the pulls are centered top to bottom and side to side on each drawer.

Drawer Organizers
We ordered the drawer divider channels from Lee Valley so we could completely customize the interior of our drawers. They often have free shipping on orders over $40. Google for lots of gardenweb members who have used these. www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?p=40168

My husband is jumping up and down to go eat lunch, so I will add pics and finish this when I get back (Like I haven't already included enough ?!?!?!!?)

I work with retainers so I encourage folks to shop before deciding. I have between 8 and 16 hours invested in a job before I am willing to accept a retainer. The client has seen several layouts and has gotten solid ball park pricing on the most likely layout: in this it is $X, unless you do something rash it won't cost more than $Y, or less than $Z. They have hopefully compared us to others.

The only obligation I expect from shoppers for my investment of time, simple courtesy... tell us once, you've decided, who did get the job and why we did not. A phone call is the best, email is better than nothing. It amazes me how many people won't even return a phone call.

How well the shopping process works for you, has a lot to do with how you go about it.

For best results make a list of what is important to you: Value, Quality, Price, Amenities, Service, Reliability, Design, Layout, Style, Installation Process. Be specific i.e. Quality alone is pretty broad so break that down.
AND have an honest budget.

Then go over the list and prioritize it. Decide if there are any things that are "deal killers" In the course of conversation tell them the top 3-5 things your looking for, any design "musts", what you will base your decision on, any deal killers, and your budget.

If you don't tell them then the KD will make assumptions. These may be inaccurate but will none the less determine how they work on your job if they don't have anything else to go on.

In the early stages both client and KD are cautious. Clients want the best arrangement they can make, have heard horror stories, few have done this before, it is a big deal to most.
KD's have had plenty of folks wasting their time and any experienced KD has had more than a few nightmare clients. The KD also has to make a living and maximize their time.

The clearer everyone is about what they offer and what they expect the better.
Try to relax and have fun. It's kinda like dating- sometimes good sometimes not so, meet some great folks that your sorry to see go, meet another who is the right one, most folks are happy when it is over.

IMO who you work with is more important than any specific brand if you want the most for your money.

I think your KD is confused. Of course I have no idea how tall you are, but unless you're 6 feet plus, 39" sounds too high to me.

But you can work this out easily for yourself.

Working with your current counter, lay various thicknesses of boards flat on the floor in an area in front of where you work. This will functionally lower the height of the counter relative to your body. Start with simple 1 inch thick boards. Then add more boards in graduated steps, up to about 3" thick. If any of this is making a difference you'll know pretty quickly.

You can also try to raise the counter top by adding stacked work surfaces on top of the present counter. To keep things from sliding about lay a layer of that squishy rubbery mesh grid used for lining shelves underneath the layers. It comes in rolls at a store like HD or Lowes. You don't need much, nor do you need 100% coverage of the layers, just enough to keep it from sliding.

While you're at it, consider other atypical work surface heights including your burner-level height, the depth of the bottom of your sink and the height of you main prep/chopping surface.

While some people point out that a highly customized counter heights may be an issue on resale, that may or may not actually be a problem. It kind of depends of your market.

For my family we have carefully investigated this for both cooks and figured out which heights work best, and how to adapt to contradictary needs. One thing we plan on using is pull-out (well kick and release, actually) platforms that can be pulled out from the toe kick area to change the relative height to adjust for the short user. In contrast for the much-taller user who needs higher surface for chopping during prep we will simply add an extra thick butcher block cutting board that lives in slot just below the prep area.

One thing we both found useful was raising the counter at the cleaning zone about 3.5" and thus raising the floor of the sink higher than is typical. (And we don't have one of the extra-deep sinks, just a normal 7.5' deep.) It's amazing how much of a difference it makes when handwashing, which is all we do.

HTH

L.

We have 2 33" 3-drawer stacks. Measurements of drawer fronts: 6, 10.5, 12".

We do not have upper cabinets near the dishwasher so need to store plates and glasses in lower cabinets. We love this setup.

In the island one, we have Saran wrap, baggies, napkins in top drawer.

Dinner plates, salad plates, soup bowls, stack 2.

Bottom level: Tupperware, misc.

Stack to right of cleanup sink:
Silverware on top, glasses in middle, serving bowls on bottom.

To make corrections when you've typed on beyond the letters you want to change, put your finger on the typo and hold it there. A magnifying glass will appear showing you a larger view of where the cursor is. When the magnifier is visible you can slide the cursor around till it's just to the right of the mistake. Then just backspace over the wrong letter(s) and retype.

There are pros & cons for each type of reveal:

• Positive Reveal. The sink shows; granite cutout is slightly larger than sink


• Pros: Easier to clean b/c you can see the gunk and can easily wipe it off (it only gets nasty if you leave it there)


• Cons: Silicone (caulk?) is visible, but if they use clear you won't see it when it dries
• Negative Reveal. The granite overhangs the sink; granite cutout is slightly smaller than the sink


• Pros: You cannot see the gunk buildup or silicone


• Cons:
  
  • You cannot see the gunk to clean it.
  • Dirty water/food can splash up & under where you cannot see to clean it. It's difficult to see underneath w/o leaning way over & into the sink.
  • Dishes/glasses have been known to break b/c when you lift them out near the edge of the sink the dish hits the stone counter & can break (or, if the dish wins, the counter could chip...but I'm not sure how likely that is).
• Zero Reveal or Flush. Sink & granite are flush or even; the granite cutout & sink are the same size


• Pros:
  
  • Easier to clean b/c you can see the gunk
  • No platform over or under for the gunk to collect


• Cons:
  
  • More difficult to do perfectly
  • Silicone is visible, but if they use clear you won't see it when it dries

You will find proponents of all three types of reveals here...but in the end it's what works best for you.

I went for the negative reveal - but wish I had done positive - it just makes the sink seem a bit smaller. DH liked the negative and he had very few things he made comments about so I didn't want to shoot him down....

If you search GW - there is a great discussion and one person had a picture and pointed out the grunge factor - they all have potential grunge but in reality - I wipe mine down when I drain the sink and nothing is growing that I can see.....

Here is a link when I asked the question
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0414122722861.html

Another thread
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0701230626695.html

And my all time favorite - where the gunk lives....
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0920592124293.html

I will not install anything but the Kessebohmer system, the cheaper versions are always falling out of adjustment and are not anywhere near as smooth

First step, ask yourself if the item is something you use or enjoy on a regular basis, has great monetary value or that holds deep sentimental value (something with an important story behind it and good enough quality that you'd be proud to show or share it with others). If not, then get rid of it. I have a defined amount of storage space that I'm willing to fill. I try to keep it orderly and organized. Once the shelves are filled or items start to block the walking area it's time to sort & purge. Pesky1 makes a good point to think of how others will benefit from items that you can donate.

Second step....if you're having a hard time disposing of an item then mentally separate yourself from it. Here's how it works for me..... Someday I will die and someone will be challenged with the task of going through my things. I imagine it will be my daughter or possibly one of my sons, maybe my husband. Then I ask, is the item at hand something they will want or that I feel demands their time to try to dispose of? If the answer is no, then I get rid of it. If I'm not willing to call them up right now and help sort for a week why should I expect them to do it for a week after I'm gone.

At some point you may throw away something you want back, but that'll be one very small percent compared to the rest of the items you'll be so glad you got rid of.

Here is a link that might be useful: Waring Portable Burner

Of course, while induction is hands-down the most efficient use of electricity for cooking, we are not talking about "green energy." When you factor in production and transmission activities, neither gas nor electricity turns out to be any more green than the other.

joc6820
>>>Unless you must have the look, or you really want to turn knobs, I don't see the argument for gas anymore. Maybe there's some ultra gourmet dish that will turn out more perfectly with gas, I don't know.<<<

I might have agreed with this six months ago, but that was before I started comparing actual stoves I might buy. By going through the process of comparing stoves and actually having to buy one, well, that taught me that there still can be plenty of arguments for having a gas stove.

I do agree that some of the arguments about gas vs induction have seemed a little silly at times, particularly the neo-Luddite claptrap about high-end gas stoves being necessary for ultra-gourmet cooking. There is no such thing as an ultra-gourmet dish that will turn out more perfectly on gas. Well, except for those people who want ultra-gourmet roasted/charred peppers on a stovetop or, maybe, ultra-gourmet s'mores. ;>)

But just as I would say that there is no reason to not consider induction as choice (except for those who do not have ready access to a sufficient 240v circuit), so also I would say that there no inherent reason to automatically reject gas stoves.

I do think that almost everybody who buys an induction stove is happy with induction cooking. They might not be happy with their particular stove or cooktop but the things that make them unhappy are rarely induction itself.

BUT, there still are plenty of reasons why somebody might find that they prefer stove A (which happens to be gas) over stove B (which happens to be induction). Personal preferences go well beyond the choice of knob controls over touchpads.

Again, I want to emphasize that I'm talking about choosing between real stoves which have attributes beyond having gas and induction burners. Those other attributes can wind up mattering in different ways to different people. I cited the control knob thing as an example of something that will be unimportant to some folks, interesting to others, and really crucial to still others. Besides the example of control designs, here are some other considerations which may shift preferences towards one stove or the other:

(a) Cooktop space: do you want to be able to run four large pots at once and be able to put any pot, anywhere on the cooktop? For example, I do about 12 or 14 events a year where it is handy for me to run, say, two 12-inch skillets and two large diameter stockpots on a 30-inch stove (which is the cooking appliance I have to run in my small kitchen). When I looked at stoves in my budget range, I found one gas stove (a pro-style range) which allows me to do that. There were two induction stoves in my budget range that met my other requirements, but both were freestanding ranges whose backsplashes crowded the cooktop. Clearly, this kind of cooktop space is not something that everybody will want or need. But, if you do want it, as I did, then this is a factor that will favor gas stove A over induction stoves B & C.

(b) How you feel about long term durability and repairability? Induction stoves run through proprietary electronics which give them lots of features. However, most of us cannot fix much of anything that could go wrong and we all know that circuit boards and high-heat can be problemmatic. The long term durability of the current proprietary circuit boards (and the long term availability of replacements) is just not known. I am not saying this makes induction a bad choices;only that we do not yet have the track record to reassure those folks for whom this is a concern.

OTOH, many (if not most) gas stoves and cooktops use standardized, simple, durable and mature designs with reliable components which are readily available from local parts supply warehouses. Many homeowners can do their own repairs. For those gas and DF stoves which have electronics running the oven, a failed oven controller will not take down the whole stove. You may still be able to use the cooktop. Obviously, this may be of less concern if you have a kitchen large enough to separate the cooktop and oven(s), but not everybody does. Equally obviously, there are some models of gas stoves where everything is run through a controller whose failure takes down the whole stove. The latter two points bring me back to the need to look concretely at actual stoves. For those bothered by the uncertainty, a simple AG stove may be preferrable to induction.

(c) Do you run large canning kettles? You may not be able to use them on certain induction stoves whose manuals forbid pots over a certain diameter. (Some makers advise that efficiency is served by using pots with diameters no more than 1" greater than the burner diameter, but say you can go greater if you want to. Others may say going over that diameter may damage the cooktop. Other makers may tell you that running two large canners could be excessive weight for the cooktop or could otherwise damage the stove. You do not have those kinds of problems with gas stoves (or coil-burner electric stoves, for that matter.) Again, this will be a concern for some people and not others. If it is a concern, it may favor the gas stove over the induction one.

(d) Do you want to run a large, rectangular stove-top griddle? Some induction stove and cooktop manuals forbid spanning burners with a large griddle. Others have burner arrangements that make running a large rectangular griddle infeasible. But, then there are the GE induction stoves (freestanding PHB925/915 and slide-in PHS925) which have two 8" diamter burners aligned to permit bridging and GE will tell you that you can do so. Samsung's NE597NOPBSR has twin burners that can be linked and run as a single 9" x 18" burner for rectangular griddles, roasting pans and other other very large pots. (LG has an induction cooktop that also does this, and comes with its own griddle). But GE, Samsung and LG models start at $2k and go up from there. If you are working with a $1500 stove budget, this factor may favor gas stoves over the induction stoves (Maytag, Whirlpool and a Samsung NE595) which are in that price range.

(e) What are the relative costs of electricity and gas in your particular area? For me, who lives in town with electricity supplied at 11.5 cents/KwH by a large regional utility conglomerate, the difference between the cost of running induction and gas stoves will be small if not trivial. Not so for my rancher friends who are served by a rural electric coop for whom "deregulation" has resulted in electric rates of 35 to 40 cents per KwH.

(f) Do you live in an area where extended power outages are a problem and, if so, do you have convenient back-ups and alternatives for cooking? Some do, some do not. For those who do, having induction is not a problem. For those who do not have ready back-ups (say folks in tall buildings in NYC) there have been a lot of postings about this in the wake of Sandy and Athena, a factor that for many of them now favors gas stoves.

(g) There is no question that induction burners put less heat into your kitchen, but the importance of this fact varies. This factor will be important to folks who live in a hot climate in a house with central air conditioning, It will be a good deal less important to somebody who (like me) lives in the Northern Rockies where we commonly have 8 months of winter and few homes have central air conditioning.

This is a short way with a potentially very long list but I think it points out considerations that may warrant buying a gas stove over an induction one.

Now, to go back to the point of the original question, I think what the OP is looking for is the experience of persons who for some reason did not like induction after they bought an induction cooktop or stove. She would like to hear (and I think it would be interesting to find out) what it was that they did not like. When you know their reasons, you can decide how applicable or inapplicable those reasons are to your own situation. It may be that somebody regrets after having been left "power-less" in the wake of Sandy/Athena, a reason that may or may not be important for the OP.

Or, it may be that nobody here will express regrets and the only way to find out will be a long thread of postings from folks with no regrets.

This post was edited by JWVideo on Mon, Nov 26, 12 at 19:34

cell phone

To post a link go to the box under your message "Optional Link URL: type in your link and be sure to use http://www etc. then whatever else is involved in the link address. Works like a charm. You will name the link in the next box.

I know that photobucket was changing over to beta and I could no longer upload photos to Gardenweb. I switched back to the old way and now everything is fine.

Between the two separate compartments in a fridge freezer combo is a separation wall, which is as thick as any freezer wall even though it only separates the freezer from another refrigerated compartment. So, to begin with, this insulated separator TAKES UP space, which has to come from somewhere, as there is a finite quantity available inside the box. So it is an absolute certainty that there will be less space available.

Secondly, Never Believe as "fact" the nominal Cubic Feet that manufacturers publish. These numbers they publish are rough, like orders of magnitude. They are not the physical reality numbers that you get when you measure the inches inside all by yourself. The numbers they publish are not lies or mistakes. They are just rough indicators. Some manufacturers have marketing people who use these numbers more loosely than others. In the commercial refrigeration market, the numbers have to be close to the truth. In the residential market, the numbers are very far off.

Multiply the height width and "depth" in inches and you get the volume in cubic inches. Divide by 1720 to convert to cubic feet. Measure it yourself. Use a tape measure.

Again Kichler Lacey collection

Pics:

We also had stone switchplates made for our bathrooms by Columbia Gorge Stoneworks. Pricey, but we felt they'd add a nice finishing touch to the bathrooms (we saved "here" so we could splurge "there").

Pics:

I cannot say enough good things about my insurance man and company. How often do you hear that!? But they are fantastic . Sadly, my DH, GC by license and contract was the contractor on the job and he bailed on me in 2007. I've been rebuilding on my own ever since.

The good news about poverty is that it's given me a lot of time to think, reorganize, build, replace, and just plan improve (ok, change) my kitchen.

My layout pretty much remains the same, but the little things happen. However, in my future, for example, when I can save for soapstone counters, I'll also be taking out the window over my sink and making a counter height one.
I'm going to rearrange another whole run of base cabinets to move a trash pull-out next to the stove where I prep. This involves uninstalling 16' of cabs, shifting them, reinstalling them, all underneath the BB countertop I built. That example is to demonstrate why one should take it slowly. I didn't think any ideas would work for me, then prepping and dumping stuff into the waste basket I'd pulled over, I had a brain storm.

My suggestion to add to the mix is small but I found important. Wherever you end up installing your outlets, use quad outlets. The 2-plug outlets are outdated in the face of electrical usage of this decade, let alone century. I also put it 220 (the ones with the little, horizontal slit on them?) for a heavier appliance demand. Already I'm wishing I had more outlets by the stove. And I barely cook alone!

Oh! And remember you don't need 14000 different outlet boxes along your counters, etc. They make a huge variety of boxes where you can have them all neatly tucked into one box. On one side of my sink I have 2 outlets, a UCL switch, and the switch for the peninsula pendants. The other side is the light over the sink switch, GD, and 2 outlets. All neatly tucked into a box that holds 4 things. They make light switch plates with as many as 12 switches in it, so don't let anyone tell you they're not made. .

Along with Ikea, since you guys sound incredibly handy, I'd suggest looking at building your own boxes. You could purchase your own face frames and doors from Barker (doors), or someone like Brian at the Cabinet Joint .com for the package of face frames and doors together. You'd save a TON of money and get exactly what you want.

I've taken a bunch of cabinets and knocked the face frames off to replace them with beaded inset, which makes my heart sing. [lol] No kidding! I've also retrofitted base cabinets to take drawers, which makes my life SO MUCH EASIER!

So there is my $.02. Hang in there and just realize there's no prize for finishing fast. Finish well.

Here's one stone quality trick: My granite installer had a guy that loved to talk stone. In my contract it said that when you get the edges cut and polished, the colors may not be quite the same as the top. I asked him why. He said that a number of slabs have some dye on that top layer injected in with the resin, and that won't obviously be on the side edge. He indicated they were slabs that come from China. I wasn't too happy to hear that dye was being put on granite. I mean, that was the beauty of it. It's all natural, right?
My own granite edges were consistent with the colors on the top, so I think I escaped the dye issue. I have attached an article on this point.

Also, if you do feel good about your stone yard, ask about who they like for installers. The guys who work there longterm know. I do think it matters that your installer's been around a while. Granite is a natural product; once in a while someone manages to scratch it or chip it, or stand on it to change a light bulb and crack it. The company who's been around a while will come and try to help you fix it.

A quality installer has computerized measuring machine to spec the dimensions of your walls and determine the cuts of granite for each counter. The quality installer will encourage you to view the finished plans to see how they plan to lay out your stone before cutting. The quality installer will do nearly all the cuts in the shop before coming to your home. They will NOT make those cuts on your lawn or in your home, raising large amounts of fine, gritty dust. Likely they have a large computerized cutting machine, as I recall it's a C&C machine. This cannot be used on certain style edges though.

Just please have your faucets ahead of time. Have the contractor measure the diameter of the inner water pipe and the outer housing. Some faucets give very little wiggle room. Be anal on this point; you won't be sorry.

Also, my granite installer was really picky on color matching the epoxy put in the cracks. It looks great.

HTH

Here is a link that might be useful: Dyed granite fades over time

Rock is rock. Slabs that seem to match are just from the same "lot" all mined together at the same time. When one lot is gone, the next can look very different. So having one slab from one lot and one from another results in two of the same granite types looking different. That's also why you can see a sample that doesn't match the current stock. With some varieties, I would see something I liked, and then the shop would say their current stock has recently been coming in more beige than white, or similar. Depends on the location in the quarry and which quarry.

Slab come in 2 cm and 3 cm thickness. If I remember correctly, 3 cm is more popular on the east coast and 2 cm on the west coast, but either is fine. A 3 cm slab can have a slightly larger overhang before needing extra bracing.

The finish could be as simple as dust in the slab. One place I went had a bucket and squeegee on hand to clean off any slab they pulled out for me since the slabs were in the same pen warehouse as the fabricating machines. I was surprised how much of a difference that made. I'm not entirely sure on this part, but I think they shine the stone up before install too.

The big difference is in fabrication skill. Search a little here for the install horror stories. You need to make sure they are good at templating, and if you have a seam, that you have seen their seam work. Also discuss seams ahead if you have a stone with a lot of movement. They should also be able to apply an even edge finish and consistent overhang.

OK experts, how'd I do? Did I learn it right? I hope so, I already made a deposit...

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0712595421594.html

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0621423910595.html

Also attached a link for more threads from a google search

Here is a link that might be useful: GW google search 8 ft. Ceilings

Basic Cleaning:
A dish-rag soaked in hot sudsy water should be used to saturate the granite surface. Allow a few minutes for the hot soapy water to work its magic. Scrub with same soapy rag shortly thereafter to remove any build-up or stubborn grime followed with a rinse or two of hot water from a soap-free rag.

For Heavy Cleaning:
Further agitate the soaking-wet surface with a coarse cloth or mildly abrasive ScotchBrite style pad, (red or blue pads only) rinse as usual. Stains can be removed by cutting open a granular automatic dishwasher capsule and gently rubbing a small amount at a time into the stain and repeating until successful.

Buffing:
After any cleaning regiment and after your stone has dried some streaking may still remain. Streak-free dish soaps seem to minimize this. Use a clean cotton rag, microfiber cloth, or a white color ScotchBrite pad to buff away cleaning product residue that remains.

Maintaining Polish:
Periodic buffing when the surface is dry with an extra-fine(000) steel wool pad followed with a slightly damp clean cloth to pick up steel wool particles left behind. A spray and shine liquid wax like "Zep" buffed with a clean cloth will add some glossy brilliance.
Granite Myths and Truths:

To Seal or Not to Seal?
If water does not bead on the surface and instead slowly absorbs and produces dark areas which a hair dryer will remove then your stone is not adequately sealed.
All untreated granites will absorb water and oils at different rates and are vulnerable to staining no matter how dense, this includes Black Galaxy, Ubatuba, Absolute Black and similar dark colored stones. The good news is that granite staining is not permanent and can be reversed. Even better still, granite sealing technologies are readily available which penetrate your stone to protect and prevent these problems from occurring in the first place. Your granite may have been factory epoxy-coated from the slab producer which will prevent sealers from penetrating. The finished edges and underside will still be susceptible to absorption and should be sealed. Sealers differ from manufacturer to manufacturer, as do their quality and molecular ability to sync with your granite's unique porosity. For best results a knowledgeable professional in your area should recommend the appropriate sealer for your particular stone and perform the initial sealing as well as successive sealing or instruct the homeowner in how-to applications.

Granite Wannabe?
Not all granites are granites. All hard igneous type stones are generally grouped with granites which should rightly contain adequately high percentages of quartz and certain minerals to be considered a true granite by definition. Special considerations are to be applied for stones outside of the granite family in terms of cleaning and preservation methods. If you are wondering why your "Quartz engineered stone is not as glossy as natural granite this is because it is a composite of pulverized quartz gravel and epoxy plastic adhesives. The coloring pigments added to the epoxy and the crushed quartz matrix cannot produce the same color and light magic that natural stone can. Plastic maintenance products and techniques are to be used for this type of surfacing.

Granite Vulnerability?
Vinegar, lemon juice; acids, as well as corrosive alkaline agents will not harm your non-coated granite. Granites are generally chemical resistant and even in extreme exposure can be easily restored to their original state. This is why granite is the first choice for monuments and commercial building exteriors.
Please note that some granite processors now coat their granite slabs with epoxy/urethane sealing technologies which may require special cleaning and maintenance considerations.
Enjoy Your Natural Granite!! info@rmstoneworks.ca

I've decided to go with the Frigidaire all-fridge and then either a 20" wide undercounter freezer that Summit makes. or the 24" freezer drawers by Summit, too. Depends on the final width of the room after gutting. (trying to put 10# in a 5# bag over here, lol)

We'll have a deep freeze in the basement and I decided that having to go counter-depth fridge/freezer just cuts down too much on fridge space. If I had your situation, I'd pick whatever full depth fridge fit my space, had good reviews and appealed to me, I guess.

Forget trying to get a consensus on refrigerators, too many opinions/experiences and it'll make you crazy. Although, there seem to be some real lemon brands out there to stay away from.

Have you checked out AJ Madison for reviews, etc? Helpful website, IMO. I find the customer reviews of the various items really helpful.

Good luck!

Scrimp on this, Splurge on that....: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg101324514831.html

Where to splurge and where to save??: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg080040367553.html

Scrimp and Splurge - Where'd you hold back, where'd you go nuts?: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0507102221365.html

Here's a picture where it looks like I ran the cabinets to the ceiling. That's a 45 inch cabinet run.

But when you open the doors, you see the soffit. Behind the soffit, the duct runs across and turns up into the ceiling before the end of the cabinet run. The cabinet maker suggested leaving a very narrow depth shelf up top. The cabinets are 15 inches deep and the duct is 10 inch round. I told him not to bother.

PowerPoint

Now, when I work on a layout, I start with the template.

Here are some links for free graph paper:

http://www.printfreegraphpaper.com
http://incompetech.com/graphpaper
http://incompetech.com/graphpaper/plain
http://mathbits.com/MathBits/StudentResources/GraphPaper/GraphPaper.htm
http://donnayoung.org/math/graph-paper.htm
http://www.waterproofpaper.com/graph-paper/

I also linked to a thread below that I started over 4 years ago when others asked for help creating layouts.

Here is a link that might be useful: Thread: Modifying A Poster's Layout

There is an old thread where I noted the name of the product I used, I will see if I can find it.

Some people with a science background have claimed that if a quartzite etches it must be marble mis-identified as quartzite. I have no idea, but we have a few reports here on GW of quartzite etching, while many like me have had nothing at all. It is difficult to explain. Search for an old thread started by me called " what's up with quartzite", it is an interesting read.

Just found the old thread where I discuss the product used on my quartzite, here it is:

Hi again - I heard from my fabricator. They used an industrial silicone-based sealant from GranQuartz, called 413S. I'm not certain that it is available to individuals (as opposed to fabricators), but it might not hurt to ask your fabricator about it. I've pasted in a link to the product on the GranQuartz website. Here is a link that might be useful: Silicone Stone Sealant

Something you may not know but really need to remember is that Shingles is very contagious! If you have Shingles, you are contagious to anyone who has never had Chicken Pox or the Chicken Pox/Varicella Vaccine. (Babies don't get the vaccine until they are 12-18 mos old.) Here is a link with more info about that:

WHEN AND HOW LONG ARE SHINGLES CONTAGIOUS

I HIGHLY recommend every healthy adult (starting around age 45-50) get the vaccine if at all possible. I assisted a family practice/internal medicine physician for about 6 years and I saw so many people suffer severely with Shingles, especially the pain during and afterward. It can last a very long time, even after the blisters are long gone. Here is more info about that:

MOST COMMON COMPLICATION - Postherpetic Neuralgia (Pain)

One sweet elderly patient had Shingles in and around her left eye. It was really terrible and she eventually lost most of her vision in that eye. It was very sad to watch the progression.

Again, I absolutely believe that every adult, based on the CDC's guidelines, should get the vaccine ASAP if they are in the financial position to do so.

Hope this helps some.

~Addy~

Here is a link that might be useful: CDC - SHINGLES VACCINE INFORMATION

Follow these steps to remove mildew stains from Acrylic Fabric, Cotton, Linen, Modacrylic, Nylon, Olefin, Polyester and Spandex. Most mildew stains can be removed during regular laundering if they are moistened beforehand.

If a stain remains:

Test fabric for colorfastness.
If color doesn't change, cover stain with a paste of lemon juice and salt.
On cotton and linen, make a paste from an oxygen bleach, water, and a few drops of ammonia.
Let paste cover stain for 15 to 30 minutes.
Flush thoroughly with water and launder again.

I find Oxiclean will remove almost any stain. I had a white 100% cotton napkin with dried red wine stains. I had tried every remedy I could find. Finally, I stuck it in a bowl with a scoop of Oxiclean dissolved in water and let it soak overnight. The next day, the stains were completely gone. I don't know how it would affect color, however, so this remedy might be your last resort before throwing the curtain away.

Here are pics of the table, both folded and in working position, and my constant companion, an 80 pound rescue labradoodle that makes me smile 100 times a day:

This is a really easy project, and for me, a perfect solution to sitting surface adjacent to sink and pull out trash.
Hope it is useful to someone.
And Bell and I thank you GWers for all the good ideas we have used over the last two years.
Sandra

For your window treatment, how about Sheer Horizontal Comfortex Blinds in either Champagne or one of their many whites. I used Champagne for my family room but I have BM Bone White walls so you may want their Snow color or one of their colors.

If you keep them closed, they allow privacy but still allow light to come in and are beautiful and elegant and not as costly as the Hunter Douglas ones. They are not as nice as the Hunter Douglas ones but they can be bought online at half price and it cost me half price to buy them and have them installed by a place about 1 hour from here. But your husband is handy so he can install them.

You can even get them in a gray color if you wish to add a little color to your room. This way you can turn them sideways for more light or raise them totally to have total light entering the room.

Sherwin William Rainwashed and/or Sea Salt are great colors.
Also, BM Woodlawn Blue HC-147 or Palladian Blue. They all have varying degrees of green/blue so you'd want to see them in your space.

shkish did a lovely kitchen with an aqua island & walls-- If you end up you don't want to fully commit to all aqua cabinetry (a lot of work to change) that could be a way to use white cabs and just an aqua island or accent.. and then do aqua walls.

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg021903123416.html

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0613340911912.html?7

However you decide to go about it, the kitchen will be beautiful!

Good Luck!

I've always liked the LWR-2522R (shown here) or LWR-2522L (same but with drain in the back left corner), because the recessed drain makes it a cinch to dump excess waste down the disposer, and because putting the drain in the back corner means the drain won't be covered by the first plate you put into the sink, and because it also moves the disposer to the rear corner of the sink cabinet underneath rather than smack dab in the middle where it's in the way of everything. It can be ordered with one through five holes on the deck.

Also consider a D-shaped sink without a full-length faucet ledge, just a hole on each corner, with the drain in the back center. These are very roomy despite fitting in the same size cabinet. Elkay also recently introduced a line of "Perfect Drain" sinks that don't need a flange around the drain when used with an Insinkerator-built disposer.

My dh built 36" vanities for our bathrooms, and I actually feel like they're too high.

Lots of people like the Sprayway S/S cleaner though. Others swear by Weiman and Magic.

WD-40 been around a looooonng time! I grew up in the 70's using it! It does OK on road-tar spots too.

Faron

From Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day: The Discovery that Revolutionizes Home Baking by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoe Francois (Thomas Dunne Books, 2007). Copyright 2007 by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoe Francois.

Serves 4

Note: This recipe must be prepared in advance.

1-1/2 tablespoons granulated yeast (about 1-1/2 packets)
1-1/2 tablespoons kosher salt
6-1/2 cups unbleached flour, plus extra for dusting dough
Cornmeal
In a large plastic resealable container, mix yeast and salt into 3 cups lukewarm (about 100 degrees) water. Using a large spoon, stir in flour, mixing until mixture is uniformly moist with no dry patches. Do not knead. Dough will be wet and loose enough to conform to shape of plastic container. Cover, but not with an airtight lid.

Let dough rise at room temperature, until dough begins to flatten on top or collapse, at least 2 hours and up to 5 hours. (At this point, dough can be refrigerated up to 2 weeks; refrigerated dough is easier to work with than room-temperature dough, so the authors recommend that first-time bakers refrigerate dough overnight or at least 3 hours.)

When ready to bake, sprinkle cornmeal on a pizza peel. Place a broiler pan on bottom rack of oven. Place baking stone on middle rack and repeat oven to 450 degrees, preheating baking stone for at least 20 minutes.

Sprinkle a little flour on dough and on your hands. Pull dough up and, using a serrated knife, cut off a grapefruit-size piece (about 1 pound). Working for 30 to 60 seconds (and adding flour as needed to prevent dough from sticking to hands; most dusting flour will fall off, it's not intended to be incorporated into dough), turn dough in hands, gently stretching surface of dough, rotating ball a quarter-turn as you go, creating a rounded top and a bunched bottom.

Place shaped dough on prepared pizza peel and let rest, uncovered, for 40 minutes. Repeat with remaining dough or refrigerate it in lidded container. (Even one day's storage improves flavor and texture of bread. Dough can also be frozen in 1-pound portions in airtight containers and defrosted overnight in refrigerator prior to baking day.) Dust dough with flour.

Using a serrated knife, slash top of dough in three parallel, �-inch deep cuts (or in a tic-tac-toe pattern). Slide dough onto preheated baking stone. Pour 1 cup hot tap water into broiler pan and quickly close oven door to trap steam. Bake until crust is well-browned and firm to the touch, about 30 minutes. Remove from oven to a wire rack and cool completely.

The other issue that will arise, and it's a BIG one, is the ability of a fabricator to do the seam well enough. This is where it's important to see past work and to not choose the lowest bid just because they are the lowest bid.

However my KD talked me out of it by pointing out they're basically just another set of drawers and cost is calculated at least for my kitchen, by number of drawers. If I was wanting more storage I'd rather have a bigger drawer. Most if not all of my cabinet stacks already had 4 drawers in them, so that was making it five. And that fifth was really small. Plus, I made my toe kick 3.5" -- I don't wear work boots in the kitchen and I saw no reason to install inflated toekicks; 3.5" has been plenty for us.

I do love the idea of the things but I haven't missed em, especially knowing the cost. YMMV.

Niftiest use of toekicks I've seen, apart from valuables-storage (say, silver) is as a step-up for the "height-challenged". That, I thought, was really clever and could definitely justify the extra cost in select locations. Another used the narrow drawer to store a step stool. But I liked turning the whole drawer itself into an actual step (though that's less portable!)

I saw a picture of a drawer someone constructed that incorporated the too-short-drawer objection for the toe kick by making the drawer at the bottom itself have the toekick "bite" worked right into it. This looked really nifty and clever but as I thought about it, then how would you use that space at the front of the drawer? You'd get just the bottom "footprint" of the drawer's worth for storage and to use the forward bump-out you'd need some very specialized shapes.

So on reflection I decided that wasn't going to use the space well either. For me, that's how it came to pass that I compromised on the toekicks that like you, I had originally thought were the bee's knees, in favor of shortened toekicks and 4-drawer stacks.

So there's an example of a KD being negatory but maybe not utterly without cause.

But I also recommend you don't use Williams Sonoma Art of Canning Book as your primary, initial reference. It has errors and plays fast and lose with current safe-canning guidelines. There are much, much better ones available. Once you've got more experienc with canning you'll be able to better evaluate the W-S recipes for critical safety points.

Basic, but excellent is the current edition of the Ball Blue Book. It's also cheap.

Putting Food By is also very good and the new edition in paperback is inexpensive.

Any title by Linda Ziedrich (pickles, jams, etc.) is safe and accurate.

Karen Solomon is good and more adventuresome.

The new Better Homes and Gardens book: Can It! has some dubious procedures in it.

Perfect Preserves by Hillaire Walden

Pickled by Lucy Norris

Small-batch preserving by Ellie Topp

Putting Up by Stephen Dowdney (methods are NOT USDA approved for home use, but experienced canners can adapt)

Well Preserved by Eugenia Bone (mostly OK methods, recipes very interesting)

Well Preserved - small batch preserving by Mary Ann Dragan

Put 'Em Up by Sherri Vinson (Ok, little beefs over technique but mostly sound)

Preservation Kitchen by Paul Virant (Interesting, very esoteric recipes)

Food in Jars by Marissa McClellan (author of extremely popular blog of same name; interesting rec. and good technique)

That's probably enough to get you going with SAFE modern practuces and fab modern-style recipes (not your G'mothers boring old canned stewed tomoatoes!) There are many other good books - I have a huge collection. One word of warning there are still new books coming out with out-moded safety techniques for home canning (i.e. steam canning). Stay with the USDA guidelines at least until you get some experience. Also books from Europe have different acceptable canning methods. I read the recipes and convert them to US recs.

Canning is a complete blast, and very addicting! There are also some great websites for canning, jelly, pickles. If you need links let me know.

L.

"... A lot of times, when this discussion comes up about sealing granite, I'll refer people to a page in that site that has links for two sets of tables-- one A-L, and the other, M-Z, listing the names of the more common "granites". One of the things they list on those pages is the absorption rate of each stone, and anything with less than a .25% absorption rate should NOT be sealed. ..."

Granite lists - Explanation

Granite lists on findstone.com - Table A - L

Granite lists on findstone.com - Table M - Z

But the part that got me, was, we picked the 24" with the shelf. The rangetop came with the island trim. When it was installed they removed the island trim replaced it with the 24", and asked if I wanted it. I said yes. But why are they charging for the island trim if it comes with it?

I know you aren't considering the 24" with a shelf based on your question, but I thought I'd post a picture for you anyway. I never knew how much I would love being able to throw things up on that shelf and pop a heat lamp on and keep them warm.

When I found out that Schock actually makes most of the granite sinks for other brands on the market I eliminated the other brands. Then I was told that the new material used is superior and they are better, smoother, stronger, easier to clean etc.

Here's some info that may be helpful from the manufacturer websites...

Schock sinks have been very popular in Europe for over 30 years and they invented the granite composite sinks and manufactures 75% of the worlds granite sinks and actually make them for many of the leading brands of granite sinks. Houzer sinks partnered with Schock in 2011 to bring their best products to USA. The Schock sinks are the highest quality granite composite sinks on the market because they have improved the manufacturing process and have made their own branded sinks stronger, smoother and non porous and they have anti bacterial properties. The two new materials are superior to any of the other granite sinks as some of you have noticed by the smoother feel of them. That is the quality you are feeling.

There is more info at the Schock Germany website or the Houzer website under granite sinks. CRISTADUR is the superior stronger material over the Cristalite+ that is an improved version of the traditional material used in the sinks manufactured for other brands. This is what the manufacturer says about Cristadur Sinks: The premium material that has an ultra-fine structure, resulting in unprecedented ease of care and featuring a dirt repellent effect (the dirt simply runs off). As well as all of the positive attributes of CRISTALITE+, CRISTADUR is silky smooth and wonderfully soft to the touch while offering maximum resistance to dirt and scratches.

On the Houzer website click on e-catalog for the best information about these sinks. They also come in a lot of colors and there are sink drains and grates to match each sink.

I use Gel Gloss granite counter gloss a few times a month to clean my sink.

Here is a link that might be useful: Schock Houzer Catalog

So you are not alone.

-david

The details

Granite -Espresso (remnant)

Faucet Moen Neva (avail online ) Lowes has a similar one

Backsplash - GBI Capri Collection porcelain - Lowes

Floor( picked by my long suffering fiance who provided a ton of DIY ing-) American Olean 13" x 13" Torre Venato Sabbia Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile -Lowes special order.

Hardware Amerock

Cabinet and other refacing supplies - Barker Doors Windsor Hard Maple finished with oil based semi gloss varnish

Hinges - Blum soft close

UCL - White 60 LEDs 5050 SMD Light Under Cabinet Counter 12V (ebay seller metapark)

Going out to dinner to celebrate LOL!

You could also alternate your sliding panels with very shallow surface-mounted cubby/shelving units on the backsplash for spices and such. Then the doors could slide sideways behind the cubbies.

The electric type is run by a reversible motor, like automatic car windows. You'd need a wiring chart and the motor (usually $50-100+ depending on weight) as well as basic wiring parts.

For a manual lift, metal or wood rails on either side of the backsplash to hold it vertical. Attach your string/cable/chain to the backsplash and attach a pulley at the top. Run your cable over the pulley and back out some strategically placed hole. Our small coop has a manual door with a cable through a pulley and we just tie it around a nail and untie it leaving enough cable that it doesn't spring back to the coop. And suddenly this idea comes to mind. What about the cord locks on blinds? You could easily retrofit that into the side or underneath a cabinet. The underneath would be an easy place to hide the lock and then you could run your string through the upper cabinet so it would be hidden. The just have a nail or pin that could hold the excess string out of the way.

The only downside to either idea is that it would require you to build out your wall behind the wall cabinets. Depth would depend on your material.

LEED or USGBC are the two standards for the BUILDING industry. Cabinets can only contribute LEED points, they are not in and of themselves certified.
NOTE NEITHER LEED nor USGBC considers finishes or VOC's in allotting points.
Also note that you get more LEED points using melamine interiors than wood, more for particle, flakeboard and MDF than for plywood. So the cabinets that I carry that have the highest LEED points possible (Saxton) are a particle board cabinet with melamine interior and sides, and foil doors. Not the most popular choice for many folks.

FSC- applies does not apply to bamboo, there is no regulation for Bamboo or Lyptus. If you rummage around treehugger.org there is enough question about which is greener- managed domestic hardwood or bamboo. My personal opinion is domestic hardwood from managed forrests but others will disagree.

I had one company (now out of business) that was able to ship an FSC certified cabinet (not just the wood) so long as delivery was within 500 miles of the factory. It took them 3 years to get the certification.
Many companies use FSC certified woood when they can, but also use wood from smaller suppliers that have managed forests who do not have FSC certification (due to the expense and paperwork.) I have no objection to that though it becomes more a matter of trust. If you don't use FSC wood exclusively you can't use the logo.

KCMA -ESP- Kitchen Cabinet Manuracturers Association Environmental Stewardship Program. This is the only environmental rating in the cabinet industry. When it started it was a rubber stamp. It is now siginificantly more difficult to obtaim. It considers 5 areas
Air Quality in manufacturing; Resource Management- Process
;Resorce Management- Product; Environmental Stewardship, and Community Involvement.
I consider KCMA ESP certification a minimum to carry a brand.

VOCs and Formaldehyde- Not the same thing. Now any cabinet that is CARB2 certified (or better yet CARB 3) will have extremely low VOCs and Formaldehyde. However if you are allergic then you will want none. A lot of companies have NAUF particle and/or plywood available. ( I have the afforementioned Saxton in particle and QCCI in plywood, there have to be others) Fewer have No VOCs and I really don't know just what LOW VOC actually means so I'm skeptical.
I spent a lot of years attempting to find a water borne finish that was equal to standard varnishes and to date I have not seen one. QCCI just came out with a no VOC oil finish that appears to hold up very well. I gave a sampe to a client and told them to abuse it as best they could- it came back looking like the one I didn't give them. I have not personally put it through a torture test though. It is a very nice finish but very limited in color options and on which woods it works. It is also dead flat so not for everyone.
VOCs is the one place where a small shop has both an advantage and a dissadvantage. They can manage to use water bornes because of the small scale (though not as durable) OTOH if they use standard catalyzed varnishes they don't typically have the same kind of air treatment,filter, exhaust that a larger shop has.

In the long run the issue comes down to reduce, reuse, recycle. Each of the certifications deal with those thing only in part. I'm not a Wood-Mode dealer, though I use to work for one. On those standards they apply but if your KD doesn't know how to explain that to you they should find out more. Many of the moderate sized brands (especially in Pennsylvania) have been doing those things as a matter of course for decades with no certifications.

I am not a geologistbut I do play with rocks all day. It is a great job.

Quartzites are a fairly new material on the market. And tend to be quite pricey. Here is why.

They are substantially harder and denser than granites. Therefore the tradititional gang saws could not cut them properly. They were first introduced about 6 years ago and were terrible. The material always had serious issues.

Over the past few years new diamond wire technology has improved to the point that the materials can be processed to a very high quality.

Just for example, a typical block of granite takes 12 to 24 hours on a gang saw to cut. A block of quartzite on a high speed wire saw takes 2 to 4 days. The material is that hard.

Now, I referred to this as a "true quartzite" because there have been quite a few materials brought onto the market and sold as quartzites to get a higher price, when in fact they are not. A material that shows up on the GW regularly is called Super White, Andromeda White, we call it Cypress, and there are a few other names for it.
It is not a quartzite, although it has some hard quartzite tendencies, it has soft spots that scratch and etch like a marble.

The other major plus about quartzites is they have marble type appearances. Azul do mar, Blue Macubus, Sienna Pearl, Apollo, Capolovora, Kalahari, Bamboo Yellow, Bamboo Green are all prime examples of the vivid colors available.

Hope that helps.

James

tea4all, this isn't an official kitchen "reveal", so I won't put all the details in, but here are the main things you can see from the photo: Plyboo Havana strand bamboo flooring, Starmark cabinets, Windsor windows, Pottery Barn Barnard pendants, and EcoSmart 4" LEDs for the recessed lights.

Meangoose, the backsplash tile is by Settecento in the gray/green shade. It's clearly got tons of blue tones. I'm not sure why it's called gray/green.

Tea4all, the flooring on the first floor is carbonized hickory 7" planks by UA flooring. We love it! We liked how the house was turning out before the floors were in but once they laid the floors, we were blown away. They warmed up the place so much. Even the builder and his workers commented on how much they loved them!

Go_figure01, the kitchen isn't huge by any means. It's 12' on the kitchen side and 14' on the range side to the end of the fridge wall left of the cased opening. The entire length from window wall to the wall with the artwork in it across the room is 18'. The fireplace wall width is 17'. Our island is 4x7.

The drawers are Electrolux refrigerator drawers. We got them because we put a counter-depth refrigerator in since you walk into the room right there. I knew we'd need the extra cold storage. Plus, it's nice to have things the kids need at mealtime near the table and my coffee and breakfast items near my coffee station. We're enjoying the drawers very much. We've been keeping juice, milk, half and half and creamers, egg beaters, sodas, and cold snacks like pudding cups, fruit cups, jello, etc in them. It's working out really well.

Breezy, I'm glad you popped in. I love your kitchen as well! The hood! Goodness...I almost did an industrial hood. Then I went back and forth between this one and a straight option which would have been less. But this one called to me. So thank you! I love the way it came out and am glad we spent a bit more. The pendants are Currey & Company Regatta. I know a couple of GWers have them. I stewed over lighting for months but kept coming back to these. Our main paint color is BM Revere Pewter. In some photos it appears browner than it is. It's a great "greige"...not too beige, not too gray. It has just enough of both to work with lots of different tones. Our trim is BM Frostine. I chose it initially to work with our cabinetry color. It was the closest match. But once it was up in the finish and the light changes throughout the day, they don't really match but it works. I think on the wall, it's a closer match to something that falls between Simply White and Cotton Balls. Breezy, you're funny! Most of this stuff is from our previous house! The only things I've added are the barstools, rugs and the window seat pillows...maybe an accessory here or there. It takes time! I'm kind of type-A with my decorating. My friend didn't believe I didn't work with a decorator. I'm just like this. I wish I had training. I'd do it for a living! It's fun!

The only bare clear shot I have of the quartzite right now is one I took when it was first installed. I can take another one later. Here's that one:

Catlover5, I am LOVING the Riverby sink! It's the first time we've had a deep single bowl or a cast iron sink. It's great!

Nini804, I went back and forth on both fridge models but decided I'd probably regret it if I didn't just bite the bullet and get the darned bar handles. I mean, we already blew our appliance budget, what was a few hundred dollars more?! Your kitchen was a huge inspiration to me, especially in deciding to not go to the ceiling with my cabinets but to do so with the hood. So thank you!

Bee, the paint behind the bar and bookcases is BM Chelsea Gray at 75%. Thanks! I love your kitchens you've done! Thank you for coming to see mine!

Red_lover: outside for you from a very bad angle. I need to get a better photo but here's one for now. Eventually, once I get pics of all the rooms, I'll post an update on the house building forum. The last I did was June.

(that's the house numbers scratched out on the front)

michoumonster, the chandelier, by pure coincidence, is also Currey and Company like the pendants. It's the Simplicity chandelier. I had the pendants picked out for some time and had a completely different chandelier by Arteriors delivered. It arrived damaged. After a huge ordeal, it was shipped back and I had to start from square one in picking out a fixture. My builder was about to kill me. I ended up with this which is nothing like what I was going with initially. I like that it's casual and not ordinary. Thank you!

We stir fry and regularly use our built in Miele deep fat fryer. If ever there was a good test of a hood we are it. I just wiped down the painted open shelves in our kitchen the other day , they are adjacent to the cooking area. They had not been done in at least 6 months. There was nothing but some dust.

Our hood is 54 " wide and 1400cfm remote blower. Tradewinds has inline too. We are MORE than pleased with it. It meets all your criteria. PLease have a look at their website..linked below. If you have any questions please ask. c

Here is a link that might be useful: Tradewind hood liner

My big thing is, as you probably know, pull-out work surfaces aka breadboards. I recommend a good-sized breadboard in the baking zone. Ours is 2 inches below regular countertop and accepts a stool for sitting. It's clean and ready for work, even when the countertop itself is not. Easier to bear down with rolling pin on it. Allows throwing flour around and I can put a waste basket below the edge and swoosh the waste right into it.

I've grouped stuff in my baking drawers that I use frequently--sifter, rolling pin, baking powder, flours and sugar, measuring cups and spoons, cupcake papers, lotsa pans, stainless bowls. In my old kitchen, I had grouped the dry ingredients, raisens and such, shortening, and the sifter and the cookbooks in an upper, but all pans and bowls and mixer pieces and rubber scrapers were elsewhere, some deep into a place I didn't like going. I like having the stuff close at hand when the baking muse hits me--I'm baking more these days--fewer excuses and the work goes faster now.

I now have 3 different utensil cylinders--one is for baking (mostly rubber scrapers), one for rangetop use (wooden spoons, whisk, spatulas), one for less-used awkwards (wok tools, meat lifter, ladle, masher). They are adjacent to the baking area, so I don't have to pull out a drawer at all to grab baking utensils. Spices same--very near baking area with most common ones to be mounted on wall and more specialized ones on upper just adjacent to baking wall.

Mixer sits on countertop at present and I don't foresee changing that. Too heavy to lift and I'm not shamed if appliances sit out.

A batch feed disposal is turned on and off by its cover, which also doubles as the sink strainer, or if you want to fill the sink with water, the cover acts as a sink stopper too. Because the disposal can only operate with the cover on, some consider it safer than a continuous feed disposal which is turned on by a separate switch. I remember a rental apartment I lived in where the undercabinet light switch and the disposal switch were next to each other, and you really had to think before turning on the disposal. If I had children who like to play with switches and the like, I would only get a batch feed disposal. Just MHO.

Another advantage to a batch feed is that there is no need for a switch in your backsplash or a hole in your counter (for an airswitch). Love that. Also, as mentioned, batch feed disposals don't need the rubber flange that was the original subject of this thread. You can also see clearly down into the disposal to retrieve spoons or whatever that have dropped down, and no need to slide your wrist past a slimy flange.

The thread that 2LittleFishes linked mentions that batch feeds might not turn off or something like that. We had batch feed disposals growing up, and I have lived with numerous different ones over many years, and never had that happen.

The linked thread also mentions that Insinkerator batch feed disposals use a magnetic mechanism in the cover to turn on and off the disposal, and that this magnet may take fiddling. For that reason, I prefer the Waste Kings, which simply have a little mechanical notch (also mentioned in the linked thread) just inside the top drain that turns on and off the disposal. I much prefer that, and also the Waste Kings have larger chambers which I prefer too. The Insinkerators are quieter so that's the tradeoff.

In the linked thread, Marcolo mentions not wanting to have to put your hand into a filled sink to turn on and off a batch feed disposal. That would be true, but I, like others who responded in that thread, haven't encountered that situation. I mean, if you are filling a sink with water, regardless of whether you are using a batch feed disposal or not, you will have to reach your hand into the water to pull out the stopper to let the water drain in any case.

One reason people don't like a batch feed disposal is that you put your scraps into it in "batches". I.e. fill it, turn it on with the stopper, pull out the stopper, fill it again until finished. A legitimate complaint, and you have to weigh that against the other pros of the batch feed and decide what you'd like. The Waste King batch feeds have larger chambers, so it take a lot to fill them, so you don't need to do as many batches. Note that it is important to make sure you have room under your sink for the larger chambers of the batch feed disposal.

I hope that answers all the questions. It's one of those personal preference decisions.

I am of the opinion that every color has both positive and neutral values. So any color, dulled down by adding some of its opposite on the color wheel, and/or by graying or browning it down, can function as a neutral.

The more different and opposing pigments you add to a color, the more neutral it becomes...you can start with anything, and end up with some version of mud if you keep going.

So a red with green added to it can become a neutral.
Purple with yellow becomes a neutral.
Blue with orange becomes a neutral.
Green with red added...etcetera.

They may still be identified clearly as red or purple or blue or green, but they function as neutrals by being quiet, and serving as background for other brighter colors.

Stark black and white are, in my view, not neutral, but they can be blank canvases for color.

The most interesting grays are made from opposing colors, not from black and white. If you ever bought a pair of gray pants and tried to find a sweater to match, you know what I mean...you get outside in the sunlight, and one of them looks green and the other purple.

How'm I doing here..?

To be clear on a few things:
- The air gap's purpose is to prevent dirty water from your dishwasher from flowing back into the dishwasher to re-dirty the dishes. But it's considered an obsolete method to do so.

- The air gap has been replaced by what's been mentioned in this thread, the "high loop hose" installation on the dishwasher.

- High loop is more effective than the air gap at preventing backwash into the DW, which is why most states don't require the air gap any longer.

- New dishwashers today come with the high loop hose already installed. Is the OP buying a new dishwasher or using an older model?

See the thread linked below which also has a video link to show you what a high loop hose is and how to install it (if your DW doesn't already have it pre-installed).

Here is a link that might be useful: Thread about Air Gaps

Shaker door style
Maple Wood
White Paint
Drawer guides: Whatever comes standard
No upgrades
W3630
B36
Note: All are full overlay...except with Shiloh you can choose from full overlay or inset. Both are the same price right now. Ikea, Debut, KraftMaid and Plain & Fancy, all have full extension, soft close drawers as a standard.

Cost to Homeowner:
$600 to $650 for Ikea Akurum (req. assembly-$55 per box?)
$657 Debut Cabinetry: Oxford
$669 Medallion: Silverline Lancaster
$888 Shiloh: Shaker Inset (reverse raised panel shaker)
$916 KraftMaid: Atwater
$963 KraftMaid: Huntington
$983 Medallion: Potter's Mill
$987 Showplace: Pendleton
$1494 Plain & Fancy: Vogue Beaded Inset

So for 24' Lin. Ft of cabinets, costs would be:
$5,352 Medallion Silverline Full Overlay
$7,104 Shiloh Inset
$11,952 P&F Inset

I realize, much of this could change from dealer to dealer and region to region. If you add another brand of cabinet, I can add it to the list. Also some brands are higher on the extras like accessories, moldings and custom modifications. For cost comps in your area and for your kitchen, you still must do the footwork. But maybe this will help somebody.

How the frame is made? This is more definitive of quality than almost anything else that you can easily find out about. Less expensive brands will use pocket holes and screws to join the frames. Next up are doweled frames. At the top end there are true mortise and tenon. A few mid range companies offer loose tenons or a variation on dowels. That sounds nice but in my experience the results are not done as well as doweled cabinets.

How are the boxes kept square? Plastic corner reinforcements, wooden corners (better), full plywood struts along each side (even better), and finally at the top end full sub tops or dust tops. Inset cabinets should always have full dust tops in my opinion.

Sides- How are the sides joined to the cabinet and what are they? First off what are they? (note particle board will often be called furntiture board, long grain flakeboard, and occasionally incorrectly MDF. Of the 500 or so mfgs out there only a handful actually use MDF for boxes) Cheapest will be 3/8" particle board, that is a case wherer you should upgrade to ply. Then comes plywood-3/8". 1/2" for standard sides are common- 3/4" for standard sides is not common but can be found at local custom makers. It keeps customers happy and is easy for them to just buy it. It is unnecessary in a framed cabinet.
3/4" (or 5/8") is more common in flush finished sides and desireable. There is often debate over plywood versus particle board. I find nothing wrong with particle (especially for frameless) depending on what it is, some of the plywood used is simply no better. But a lot of folks will argue this.
How good the particle or (ply for that matter)is will vary. If looking at manufactured cabinets I would go more by price/reputation than worrying about the specifics. It is unlikely that the salesman can answer with authority what type, where it came from, what grade, etc. When I'm looking for a mfg the reps usually have to put me in touch with the factory to get those answers. Local shops are less likely to use particle. Domestic or Canadian particle or ply is better than Mexican (particle) or Chinese (any)

More importantly is how the sides are joined to the box. Most of that you can only tell by looking at an uninstalled cabinet. Best are into dadoes and glued, staples are ok if the glue is done properly and the fit is tight. Lots of staples is a bad sign. A little glue exposed is a good sign. I would rather see some glue that was not cleaned up than get a glue starved joint.

Almost everyone will give you dovetail drawers. There are other constructions used by local shops and often are fine and will still last 30 years. 1/2" box sides require better wood than 3/4" sides. I will not sell a cabnet with Chinese drawer glides- I only consider Grass/Mepla, Blum, KV or Accuride glides. (in that order for undermount)

What type of finish- full conversion varnish is arguably the best but nothing wrong with pre-catalyzed varnishes used by local shops. How much is used and how well it is applied matters more. Almost no one can tell you what the "wet build" is for the finish on their cabinets. (you should see the look on reps faces when I ask that :) Run your hand along the bottom edges of drawer faces- feel smooth and consistant- good. Best way to tell finish.

Warranty- mfgs will give you a "limited lifetime warranty" This is a great marketing tool. If you are going to have a defect it will be in the first year, after that everything is wear and tear. So you are then left to the good graces of the mfg. Better mfg will take care of things forever as a courtesy, cheaper ones will be less likely to do so. Hardware is almost always for life and not usually difficult to bet taken care of.
What "grade" of wood is used for doors AND what they consider a replaceable door. If you are getting light colored woods you want a better grade of cabinet if you are fussy. Some manufacturers will replace a door if the salesperson asks, others require it be warped a specific amount (as much as a 1/4") some want it to acclimatize for a year, some have a size limit on doors for warranty.

Amazon is out at the moment but that is the style I was thinking of getting for the new house. Ohhh but BB&B has it, and I have a coupon!

http://www.amazon.com/Amco-Over-Sink-Dish-Expandable/dp/B000Y52CHK

http://www.stacksandstacks.com/adjustable-over-sink-dish-drainer?id=175&sku=17489

http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/product.asp?SKU=11785700

I don't know how to make them all active links, sorry.

Here is a link that might be useful: another dish rack for sink

Anyway, hopefully her doctor will figure this out. Low levels of potassium, sodium and others can cause symptoms that seem "mental". My grandfather thought he saw Winnie the Pooh in his hospital room. We were sure it was pain medication (he was recovering from surgery), but his potassium level had dropped very low. After an IV, he was his old self. Programs like GAP are helpful because they review medications, lifestyle, the whole picture. These are medical professionals, but sometimes give a clearer view than just one doctor. They also do testing to determine if there is dementia, etc.

Hope you find something out soon!

tina

I seriously will throw a party when I find that darned label maker! Oh the things I want to tag in my newly remodeled house....

I should take a new pic now that I've added my paprikas in the drawer. I'll link to the company, Specialty Bottle, below. Badgergirl and I both used the smaller TCT4 tins and the larger TCT8.

Love yours!! Your more petite drawer actually snuggles the tins better than mine. And wait until you're in the middle of a trenches cooking a big meal. You'll get a thrill from being able to see all your spices laid out where grabbing and measuring takes a mere second. You'll wonder how you ever got by reaching into a dark upper cab with toppling towers of spices.

And thanks for the kind shout-out. I can't believe I actually helped someone! You brightened the end of a sad day full of good-byes and made me smile. :-)

Here is a link that might be useful: Specialty Bottle spice tins with clear lids

If you are going with an induction cooktop and a separate oven under the cooktop, one thing to consider is the venting on the oven. Wall ovens vent to the front, which means if you're standing at the cooktop and have the oven on you'll have the hot air blowing on you. If you're using a range, that will vent to the top. I have a cooktop and wall oven (with the micro/convection above that) and find it much more convenient that my old setup with a range.

Another one we're looking at is the Electrolux Icon 1.5 30" built-in microwave with convection (but no steamer). Reviews are more love-it or hate-it on that one, and I know their 1.1 cu. foot similar model has lots of complaints about the door hinges being plastic and breaking, though maybe the bigger one has different hinges? We're thinking of getting it b/c we're planning to get an Electrolux Icon fridge and already have a GE Monogram range (which we just got for cheap as a floor model and which has a very similar handle style to the Electrolux Icon Professional line), such that everything would match.

Maybe one of those might work for you? Anybody here have any thoughts on either of these choices?

I use soffits, but I generally design them to sit flush or slightly behind the cabinet door plane, and only use a small moulding between the cabinet and the soffit, saving the crown for the junction between the soffit and ceiling.

I use the freezer door handle and sometimes the warming drawer handle...the ovens are "off limits" b/c my front door view is the ovens! I find keeping the towel out in the open makes the towel much more accessible when needed - no opening a cabinet door w/dripping wet hands. It also allows it to dry more quickly and does not create a damp environment inside a cabinet.

Here are some older towel threads...including the famous "towel pig"!

What to do with the Dish Towel?!?! [Towel Pig thread]

OT. Kitchen-towel-hanging-on-the-oven-door-survey...

Where do you hang your cloth hand towels?

narrow open cabinet to hang damp dish towels

Where and how do you hang your cloth dishtowels?

Where do you put paper towels, wet dish towels, cutting boards,

where do you hang the dish towel in the spanking new kitchen?

Where do you hang your dish towels?

These are about dish cloths:

where do you keep kitchen cloths?

Ew...wet rags on kitchen sink

Dish cloth or sponge? And where do you store it between uses?

Where to store that wet dishrag?

There are 5 women in my family, (mothers and daughters) and when we were having my mother's viewing and funeral, they were short of sensible black dress shoes, black handbags, and plain dark cardigans and things like that (two live in Florida, two are in their very early 20s)

Five discreet black handbags and three pairs of classic black shoes from high heels to flats made it from her closet to her own funeral. At least one of those handbags was from the 1940s and had been Her mother's. And not everything she owned was this way, but a lot of basics were.

I don't think they ever dressed the height of fashion, but I don't think they ever looked "wrong" either.

I think if you approach interiors this way: a little plain, a little not so a la mode, a trend here balanced by the anti-trend there...it may come close to, if not "timeless" at least enduring enough to not feel compelled to change it.

Watch that they don't use nails on your sheetrock.

The exterior height of a cab is not the same as the interior height. I measured some open cabs that should have fit my kitchen electrics comfortably, but I failed to account for the thickness of the box. Pretty dumb in hindsight....

Make sure you specify exactly where you want your lighting to the electrician or you will be fixing holes in the sheetrock when they have to move them all.

Speak to people who have completed projects from the gc and ask how it was a few months after and if they came back to fix or tweak anything. I'd also ask if there was anything to be careful about with the gc. People may be happy overall, but you need to know the weaknesses. They may need to be reminded. I found people after we got screwed who were all able to warn me (too late!).

Make sure the faucet is tall enough for a vessel sink with actual measurements (ot - bathroom).

Put your wall oven fairly close to where the vent over the stove is or risk setting off your smoke detector occasionally.

Make sure that any windows are not placed too low. We had this in our bedroom where it is too low to put furniture below them, but this could happen anywhere.

Make sure the hardware is tightened for any pocket doors before they close the wall up. Our wheels went off the track and can't be gotten back on to stay without opening up the freshly completed wall to tighten them in place.

the paint color is BM Tranquility. it looks pretty awful on the paint chip, in my opinion, but is truly tranquil on the walls. we are really happy with it. i call it green-gray, hubbie calles it blue-gray... so it's really an in-between color, i guess.

dilly ny -- the solar tube can be purchased at most home improvement stores. it is the larger of the lights (amongst recessed lights) in the first picture. it lets in so much light that we were told not to get the larger size, as it can get too warm when standing under it for long periods of time on a v. sunny day.(not sure this is the case...) you can also put a light inside of it-- so that it functions as a light by day (sun) and at night (switched bulb). they are around $100 or so-- and only took our contractor a couple of hours to install. (hole in ceiling, hole in roof and super-shiny reflective between.)

Boxiebabe, I'm concerned about your idea for pullout shelves above the oven and refrigerator. I think you'll still knock things down, but they'll end up behind the pullout and will be in the way when you try to close it...THEN try to get them out with the pullout shelf in your way! But maybe you're better at these things, because I'm pretty certain that's the way it would work for me! ;-)

I wish I'd given up a bit of kitchen for more pantry, just as I wish I'd put more closets in the rest of the house.

I don't miss the gross, yuck-collecting trash compactor we had in our last house, and instead love the dbl trash pullout for garbage in front and recycle in back.

I haven't been around here much since May or so when we finally finished our project. I have at long last gotten the before & after pictures from our kitchen designer and wrote up a blog post about all of our kitchen details. Before getting down to the pics & links, I want to thank the kitchen forum for two big ingredients in our kitchen. My wife & I were reading the thread about "biggest kitchen regrets" from a few years back, and it definitely helped us make some decisions - first to go with the crazy granite, which I wouldn't have any other way now that it's been installed, and second to put garbage disposal units in both sinks.

Now then, without further ado, some before & after pictures and a list of all our kitchen details. I hope that they can help provide other forum regulars and lurkers with even a fraction of the design ideas and inspiration we found by hanging around this forum before and during our project. All these images and details are also available here.

Before Pictures - click thumbnails for larger versions:

After Pictures - click thumbnails for larger versions:

Vendor information and design details:

• Countertops - Barricato granite, polished with pencil edge. Stone from Bedrosian's, fabrication by Marble & Stone Solutions.


• Backsplash - Cararra marble, Murano glass, pewter-finish resin, some other kind of stone. Design by Yana Mlynash.


• Cabinets - Made by Crystal Cabinets. Quest line, Claremont door style, cherry wood, cinnamon finish with black glaze.


• Cabinet hardware - Lee Valley Regal Suite, pewter finish.


• Floors - Natural-finish red oak engineered wood from USC Flooring. 3″ width with microbeveled edges.


• Pendant lights - Justice Design Group CLD-8816 Clouds one-light pendant


• Counter stools - Ethan Allen Horizon Studios Kyla counter stool


• Main sink - Kraus KHU100-32 32" undermount single-bowl 16 gauge stainless steel kitchen sink.


• Prep sink - Ticor S3650 16-gauge stainless steel square undermount bar sink.


• Main sink faucet - Delta Addison 9192-DST single handle pull-down kitchen faucet, stainless.


• Prep sink faucet - Delta Addison 9992-DST single handle bar prep faucet, stainless.


• Bottle opener - Starr “X” polished stainless steel wall-mount bottle opener.


• Paper towel holder - simplehuman KT1024 wall-mount paper towel holder.


• Appliances




• Refrigerator - Electrolux EI27BS16JS standard-depth french door refrigerator


• Refrigerator Drawers - Electrolux EI24RD65HS refrigerator drawers


• Cooktop - Dacor EG366SCH Discovery gas rangetop


• Oven - Dacor EORS130 Renaissance 30″ Epicure single wall oven


• Microwave - Dacor DCM24 Discovery 24″ convection microwave


• Dishwasher - LG LDF7932ST dishwasher


• Garbage disposals - Insinkerator Evolution Excel


• Chilled Water tap - Everpure Polaria instant water chiller, Everpure H-54 water filter, and Everpure Designer Series single-temp faucet in brushed nickel.

Big thanks to Yana, Greg, Jan, and everyone else at Artistic Kitchen Design & Remodeling for all of their help with this project. It was a lot of work and it seemed like it was taking forever, but the finished product is as good as we could have hoped for and better!

A custom cabinetmaker can build cabinets to suit you. E.g., deeper depths, etc. However, many of these things will drive the cost up...but, maybe not has high as it would be if you did them in semi-custom.

Is this a "local custom cabinetmaker" or a custom line for manufacturer?

If local and your custom cabinetmaker is good, then s/he can probably fix things on the spot that don't quite fit or do other "finishing touches" that others might not be able to do.

You often also have not only a wider selection of door styles (and often nicer) with custom, but you can usually have a stain or paint made just for you...i.e., a unique, one-of-a-kind stain/paint!

Other things to look for are the construction details, although many of the upgrades in custom aren't strictly necessary (like 3/4" thick walls vs 1/2" thick walls...besides, with the 1/2" walls you gain 1/2" of interior space :-)) Other things may very well be worth it.

Hardware is another place where a custom line may be better...e.g., better quality full-extension, soft-close drawer glides might be standard for custom but an upgrade for semi-custom.

We went with a mix of semi-custom & Custom from Omega. Their hardware was the same in both lines (full-ext/soft-close, etc.), most of the construction details were the same in both lines, they had the door & drawer styles I liked in both lines, and they had the wood & finish I wanted in both lines. The main differences were (1) Custom had 3/4" thick side walls vs the 1/2" side walls for semi (all other walls/floors were the same) and (2) the interiors of the Custom cabinets were birch or maple stained to match the exteriors vs the melamine in the semi. Neither mattered to me. The only cabinets I got that were Custom were those that were less expensive in Custom than if they were modified from a semi-custom cabinet. That amounted to, I think, 4 cabinets (two uppers, the MW drawer cabinet, and, I think, one of the peninsula cabinets).

Not all manufacturers of both Custom & Semi-Custom offer the same things and not all semi-custom cabinetmakers are as flexible as Omega.

Some questions to ask:

More on butt cabinets:

A butt cabinet is one where the two doors "butt" together, rather than have a center stile (upright member) behind where the doors come together. It's a more complete access issue because you have access to the whole cabinet interior, not just half and half. It can be a construction issue as well. Some cabinet lines use thinner materials and cannot construct butt cabinets because they won't have enough support without that center stile. I wouldn't deal with a cabinet company that didn't at least offer butt cabinets in their line, even if they were an upcharge. :( Many cabinet lines offer them as a standard without you even having to ask.

Butt doors will all have a tiny gap between them, because of the clearance needed to be able to open both doors. That bothers some people, and it doesn't bother others. If I'm spec'ing a butt cabinet with interior lighting, I'll also spec what's called a "dust strip" by cabinet companies, or a T astragal by door manufacturers. It's a small strip on the back side of one door that covers the gap. That means that you have to close that door first and open the other one first. It's not a big deal for a glass display cabinet, and it keeps the light from shining through, but it can be a pain on more often used cabinets so those don't usually have that spec'd.

Now you know more about something you didn't even know existed than some box store kitchen clerks do! LOL!

Once you've finalized your basic design, it's time to analyze your storage needs in each zone. The results of that analysis will drive the size/configuration of your cabinets and drawers. (The following is a general write-up I've come up with...)

1. First, make a list of everything you plan to store in your new kitchen, regardless of where it's stored now...kitchen, basement, dining room, etc.


2. Next, take the list and group the items according to function. Will they be used during prep? cooking? baking? cleanup? Some items, like pot holders, may belong in two different zones (in this case, cooking & baking). You can either find storage between the two zones or have duplicates and store one in each zone.


3. Now, determine where each of your zones will be (prep, cleanup, cooking, baking, storage, etc.)

The next step depends on the stage you are in the design/order process...
4. If you've already ordered your cabinets, then you will have to work with what you have. So...


• Identify the storage potential in each zone and list them on a piece of paper with a section for each cabinet (base & upper) and one line per drawer or shelf in that cabinet. This includes your pantry for your "storage" zone.


• Take the two lists and, while imagining yourself working in each zone, put the dishes, tools, etc. that you will be using in cabinets in that zone. Fill in the lines in the cabinet list with these items.

If you are still in the design phase, you will have the opportunity to plan your storage to meet your needs in each zone.
• Take your list and imagine yourself working in each zone.


• Go through the motions to determine the best locations for each item that will be used and stored in that zone (don't forget that you will probably have both upper and lower cabinets).


• Now that you know where to put the items, determine what the best way is to store those items (drawer, shelf, etc.) and what size (e.g., pots & pans work best in 30" or 36" drawers)


• Lastly, transfer what you've done to your design & tweak as necessary.

You should now have a well-thought out and highly functional kitchen!

This not only helps you to "see" how things will fit, but it also will help when you move back into the kitchen...you won't have to think about it, you'll be able to just put things away. It will also be a handy "map" for everyone to help find things the first few weeks w/o having to open every drawer or door!

Oh, and don't forget the Junk Drawer! Most people end up with one, so you may as well plan for it so you at least have control over where it's located!

Common Zones, Appliances In That Zone, and Suggestions For What To Store There:

• Storage--pantry & refrigerator--tupperware, food, wraps & plastic bags


• Preparation--sink & trash--utensils, measuring cups/spoons, mixing bowls, colander, jello molds, cutting boards, knives, cook books, paper towels


• Cooking--cooktop/range & MW--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, serving dishes (platters, bowls, etc.), paper towels


• Baking--ovens/range--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, casserole dishes, roasting rack, cooling racks, cookie sheets, foils, rolling pin, cookie cutters, pizza stone, muffin tins, paper towels


• Cleanup--sink & DW & trash--detergents, linens, dishes & glasses, flatware


• Eating--island/peninsula/table/nook/DR--table linens, placemats, napkins, dishes & glasses, flatware


• Utility--broom, dustpan, swifter, mop, cleaning supplies, cloths, flashlights, batteries, extension cords


• Message Center--phones, charging station, directories/phone books, calendar, desk supplies, dry erase board or chalkboard

Less Common Zones:

• Tea/Coffee Bar--coffeemaker--mugs, teas/coffees, sugar, teapot


• Pet Zone--feeding area--food, snacks

Commonly Used Items: pots & pans, utensils, small appliances, linens, pot holders, trivets, dish detergents, "Tupperware", knives, pitchers, water bottles, vases, picnic supplies, cook books, etc.

Foods: Spices, Breads, Flours/Sugars, Teas/Coffees, Potatoes, Onions, Canned Goods, Dry Goods (rice, pasta, etc.), Cereals, Snacks

Small Appliances: Toaster, Stand and/or Hand Mixer, Blender, Breadmaker, Toaster Oven, Food Processor, Crockpot, Waffle Iron, Electric Skillet, Coffeemaker, Coffee Grinder, Ricer, Steamer

NOTE: If your ceiling or one or more of your walls is coming down, consider wiring for speakers, TV, Computer, etc.

I have a convection MW, Whirlpool for about $600 in the new house, but have yet to use it so I'm not sure if you can do this with a convection MW or not. The previous MW's I had pre-date the advantium and did not convect, so I am not really sure what a convection MW can do.

Ours is 2 cm because that is what our counters are (and what most stone is around here).

gneegirl, our electrical boxes were installed as kevin described. Our granite fabricator cut the holes for the outlets and switches when he came to install the backsplash. The cutting was done in our back yard. I think our outlet boxes are also a kind that lets the box depth be adjusted with a couple of screws though that isn't essential.

We got Lutron outlets and switches in a color that went well with our granite (black but the Lutron "satin" black is less shiny than the ones at the hardware store - close to a matte). We splurged and got granite wall plates made from some of our left over granite by Columbia Gorge Stoneworks. One end of the backsplash is next to our back door and has a bank of six switches for various internal and external lights so the granite wall plates make a difference.

We are quite happy with the results:

Here is how it looked before the granite wall plates arrived:

Here is a link that might be useful: Columbia Gorge Stoneworks

- I don't use the prefab/prehung pocket doors. I build them up from the straightest stock I can get. I've even ripped birch plywood to make the frames. Better yet, make the wall with 2x6 plates.
- Don't use cheap hardware (track and hangers). Ask for the heavy duty stuff.
- Frame the opening oversize so that the door can be removed without tearing out the jambs. Nail stop molding to the jambs to cover the edges when closed.

And most important...clearly label the wall, especially at the bottom, so that the carpenters don't fire nails into the door when hanging trim. Been there, done that. Two nails in every stud. Don't ever want to do it again.

I have a few pics at http://community.webshots.com/user/coltlake, however, that site may be down. I haven't been able to get to it from work the last few days. If you can't get to that site, I will post a few pics here in the next day or so.

I used a 1:4 ratio of Minwax oil based stain to Waterlox Original Sealer (the max they recommend) for the first coat of Waterlox. The stain was a mix of two colors: 1 part Minwax Dark Walnut and 6 parts Minxwax Red Chestnut. We wanted a dark brown/red color. The Red Chestnut was too red and the Dark Walnut had no red at all. The mix was very close to what we wanted. We tried other colors like the Red Mahogony, but it had a purplish tint to it. After figuring out how many cans of each color we would need we opened the cans, mixed the stain in a bucket at the 1:6 ratio and then poured the mixed stain back into the original cans for storage until use.

I would recommend getting several pieces of scrap flooring and trying the stain/Waterlox mix out to see what the colors look like. Remember, just apply it to the samples with a lambs wool applicator in one stroke (do not scrub it on) and let it cure - do not wipe it off. If you put enough on it will be wet looking with oil sitting on the surface of the wood. That is how you apply it to the actual floor. As it cures it will self-level and soak into the wood. Do not wipe off the excess oil - what doesn't soak in will harden. You can experiment with adding some of the other Minwax colors to your taste.

When applying the stain/sealer mix to the floor be sure to take your time (too fast causes bubbles to form), get good coverage, overlap each adjacent strip, and keep the edges wet (don't stop working until the whole floor is finished). If you absolutely need to find a stopping point because the room is too large to completey cover in one day, you can cut in along the edge of the boards with a brush to finish a section and then cut in with a brush along the adjacent boards to start the next area. This works real well for later coats with plain Waterlox, but you still have to be careful with the first coat with stain that the brush strokes are uniform. If possible, save the larger areas for days when you have time to apply the first coat completely across the room. Because our flooring extends from one room into the next with no threshold, we had no natural stopping points between rooms, so we had to use the brush technique to stop along edges of boards near the doorway.

After the first coat, inspect the floor for edges or spots that the stain missed. Wipe on a little stain/sealer mix, let it set for a minute, and then wipe it off and buff it. If you have gaps between the boards that the stain did not get down into, dip a brush into the the stain/sealer mix and work it into the gap and then wipe off the excess from the surface of the boards. You won't have to do this for the subsequent coats.

After the second coat of sealer, the Waterlox should start to build up a layer and start to have little more uniform sheen. However, there may be spots, especially around knots in soft wood such as pine, where the Waterlox is still soaking in and does not have as much sheen as surrounding areas. I took some Waterlox and spot treated these areas and buffed it out with a rag so it could "catch up" with the rest of the floor. The subsequent 3rd and 4th coats resulted in an even sheen, even on the soft pine. Waterlox does not build up like polyurethane, though, so don't expect that knots will be have a perfectly even sheen. You will still be able to see them when you look across the floor towards a window, but it will look normal.

Mixing the stain with the Waterlox, even at the maximum ratio recommended, resulted in a satisfactorily uniform staining of the white pine floors and saved a lot of effort compared to staining the floors in a separate step. Color uniformity was not perfect, but very satisfactory. It is hard to tell what color variations are due to the method of stain application or due to natural color variations in the wood itself. With lighter stains/ratios or harder woods the results should be even better.

First, my tray storage (muffin tins, roasting pan, broiling pan, cookie sheets, cooling racks, pizza pans, etc.)

This cabinet is above my double ovens. Two things about this I like:

(1) The slots allow me to store everything in such a way that I can quickly and easily get exactly what I want w/o having to paw through a stack of trays, etc.

(2) Platter storage...Because this cabinet is 24" deep, I can store all my longer platters and griddle lengthwise here.

Also, notice the location of the shelf...removing a tray (or cookie sheet, muffin tin, cooling rack, etc.) only requires pulling out by a bottom corner, access to the top of the trays, etc. is not needed. So, to increase "reachable" storage, the trays are actually on the shelf and the platters & griddle are on the floor of the cabinet. This way, the platters & griddle are easily reached as well as the trays, etc.

Second, my trash/recycle pullout with Junk Drawer above. The dogs can no longer get into the trash and I no longer have to find floor space for a stand-alone trash can. This also gives me room for two bins...the front bin holds trash, the back recyclables. So no more piling up of recyclables on the counter for a recycle run to the garage.

OK...there are three things that are my favorite...my knife storage. I was never particularly happy storing my knives in a knife block on the counter. It took up too much space. I like this much, much better!

I also like how I now have most of my prep & cooking utensils & tools organized so no more pawing through a drawer looking for just the right tool.

Here's my husband's favorite...our "Pet Zone". In our old kitchen, we stored the dog food in the pantry and the other "doggy items" scattered around the house. Now, everything is in one place and right next to where we feed them.

One thing though...this was supposed to be a pullout w/the bottom "shelf" attached to the door and a roll out tray shelf (ROTS) inside. It was something I missed in the final cabinet order. B/c it's against a wall, we had to put in filler to allow the left door to open 90 degrees...and that's about all it opens. The other problems w/the configuration we ended up with, is that we have to pen two doors completely b/f we can pull out any of the ROTSs. If they're not open all the way, they ding the doors. Ditto for making sure the ROTSs are completely inside the cabinet b/f closing the doors. Oh well!

If you call the company directly, they will help figure out which model you need (we wanted to end up with same BTU's we were going to lose by moving things around and taking down a wall in the kitchen).

They are quiet (you hear the air noise, but no "squirrel cage" squealing which apparently is common with most kick heaters) and can be hooked up to a switch or not.

Here is a link that might be useful: Turbonics

I will say that if it's too small, I agree it might be an issue, but if it's over 20" wide, I think it will be fine. I have a double-bowl and the large bowl is "D" shaped...it's 21.5" wide (same sink as WhiteRiverSooner) and all my cookie trays, pots & pans (plus handles), refrigerator shelves & bins (except the 36" wide deli bin), and Vent-A-Hood insert fit in that bowl.

One of the things I like about a "D" shape is that you can put the faucet (and SD, etc.) on the curved corner so it's not quite so far back. This is especially useful when the sink is in front of a window with a sill or on an island or peninsula with a raised counter behind it. In these situations, the window sill, counter edge, or even the backsplash of any sink facing a "wall", can often take away from the space available for the faucet and cause issues w/the faucet swiveling or the handles moving freely w/o hitting the obstruction (sill, counter edge, etc.) behind the sink.

We bought our Silgranit anthracite Blancoprecis Super Single sink from Homeandstone, because that site was recommended repeatedly on this forum. The sink arrived in 2 days, and was packed in thick layers of styrofoam that held it absolutely inert and protected. As has been mentioned countless times on this forum when discussing Silgranit sinks, you must buy from a reputable seller. Saving 20 bucks or whatever isn't worth it if you are not buying from a reputable seller. Was your seller an authorized Blanco dealer? If so, then call Blanco customer service and let them know how one of their authorized dealers is treating their merchandise. You can also check the quality of your online seller by looking them up on resellerratings.com.

Qualitystone is another retailer that is highly recommended on this forum. They also frequently have 5% off weekend sales. They have the biscotti color in stock for the Silgranit sinks. The truffle color is brand new, just hit the American market a month ago or so, and it is to be expected that truffle silgranit sinks might be on backorder.

I think there's a thread somewhere, probably from Buehl! delimiting the differences nicely, the pros/cons. I think that's the way to go.

e.g. (not exhaustive by any means):

Stainless:
noisy, relatively cheap (can be), available as apron, under/over mount, shows water spots (though I think some do more than others), can be noisy depending on quality and gauge of material, relatively forgiving of dropped plates, builds a patina with age, doesn't chip or crack, available in many, many groovy shapes, many depths available - probably most versatile in terms of availability, worry-free in that it doesn't chip/crack

granite: more expensive, warmer, more forgiving of dropped plates than porcelain, probably less so than ss, color coordinat-able, not-noisy, I find it "comforting", dunno why ... etc.

porcelain: shiny and pretty, comes in colors, less maintenance, maybe - depends I suppose, old ones can be cranky, completely unforgiving of droppages!, sturdy, solid, available in old-thyme types...

etc...

I think you could make out a grid of all this, or somehow, find a quiet space inside yourself to figure out what parameters matter to *you* -- do you tend to drop dishes? You might want a bouncier sink. Do you care about water spots? You might want to stay away from ss. Do you want things to look really pretty and integrated? Silgranite...

These are choices that are personal opinion. I don't think there is any factual way of choosing one over another. Unless you can state: I want the sink least likely to shatter a dropped dish. Then you've got an answer. Short of identifying the precise parameters that matter to you, you're in personal-opinion land.

I happened to choose silgranite and ss. I like porcelain too; just didn't choose its particular strengths this time. FWIW I love my silgranite and only sort-of love my Kraus ss. I don't feel like I "want my money back" on the ss but it's not my fav; not sure why. It's possible it's the faucet that's the problem though (Ladylux) - the interaction of faucet and sink matters too.

Good luck!

If your duct is smaller than specified, you *could* run a large-cfm exhaust blower on its lowest setting (and think that this will offset the noise), but you would be UNsatisfied with the entire setup and UNhappy about the advice you thought you were getting from nice people advising what you can do.

If the duct is too small from end to end it will resist or push back against air instead of allowing it to flow well; the fan blower will act in weird ways, humming, buzzing, strumming, and being generally lazy whether on speed #1, 2, or 3.

Some ducts are only a few inches end to end. Some ducts are measured in inches length, because the end point is the wall outside, behind the hood.

Some ducts go for so many feet that they need boosters (secondary blowers) at the far end.

A long duct is an "obstacle", a clear resistance, a big thing. Never ask "is this considered long?" as it's all a continuum, from ease to resistance.

If in the duct run, the duct diameter gets shrunk at a spot (a pinch point), this is not a serious obstacle. (web search "Venturi Effect" to read about air flowing around a point obstacle). Not a problem for air flowing through, but nobody will guarantee that the audible noise in the kitchen will remain low noise or pleasant.

A duct could be made one size larger than the specified size. But not several sizes larger. If the duct is massively overdimensioned it can become too greasy inside (because in a duct that has fast-moving air, airborne specks of grease go straight outside). Microscopic grease particles, that filters won't catch, is what you perceive as "the smell of cooking". This smell *can* be eliminated but this costs so much that only a big restaurant might want to buy it.

Your mission should you choose to accept it is to right size your duct, your blower, and your cooktop.

Here is a link that might be useful: So how many CFM's do I really need (appliance forum)

Oversizing a blower is not a problem. You'll use the lower speeds more often. (Oversizing some other things does cause problems. (E.g. Air conditioning, if oversized, in a humid climate, gives you little to no dehumidifying so you feel clammy instead of comfortable.).).

In Europe people eat good food too. They make do with less than 450 CFM in many expensive houses (that have room for wider ducting too). But, don't do anything just because wealthy people on another continent do it that way. Buy the bigger blower and enjoy it when you need it. I read here about someone who fried salmon in olive oil. I don't do that because salmon is greasy enough as is. Whatever floats your boat.

To make the noise be mostly just wind moving and not any specific kind of motor hum or vibration, consider getting the blower installed in-line or outside ("external"). Moving the motor farther away gives you more room for other things up close. Either open space or more space in the upper cabinets.

Finally, one thing that doesn't seem easy to get these days: a funnel shape of canopy so that the hood actually catches fast rising steam and grease, which comes in bursts sometimes. The filters are often built to be way too low down in the conical hood shape they sell you. There is a huge difference between a flat bottomed hood and another one that has a rim creating a few inches of space that catch smoke, greasy air and steam before the fan can suck it all away. (This problem disappears when you have a highest CFM blower and if it's already blowing at top speed when the burst of smoke happens.)

These sites all have knobs made in the USA, SOME of them also have knobs made elsewhere, you just have to watch or call them to confirm.

http://www.usa-knobs.com/usa-made-laurey-cimarron-collection.html

http://www.colonialbronze.com/

http://www.schaubandcompany.com/index.html

http://www.mountainstreamforge.com

http://www.horton-brasses.com/

www.te-ma.com

http://www.anneathome.com/content/index.cfm?fuseaction=showContent&contentID=47&navID=43

They came out just after I got my CREE LR6.

I love the bright warm LED lights.

Here is a link that might be useful: CREE CR6

I got the XO over the Zephyr of the same style because of the extra CFM, tough it was a bit more expensive.

Certainly in second place is the Monogram gas cooktop to replace the 30 year old electric smoothtop! Love love love it! Since the altitude (8200') loses us BTUs, a high output cooktop gets us at least to "normal" BTU levels. The DW is a very good Asko that is third behind the cooktop--handwashing cookware makes me very appreciative of *not* washing everything!

The new-ish GE wall oven (old enough that the model is discontinued) works well enough that I don't feel I have to replace it: even heating, consistent temp. The fridge is new, only because our old one stuck out into the aisle 8-10", and is a middle-of-the-pack Samsung rather than the TOL or a SZ. So lump me in with the "eh" oven and fridge group.

It's very interesting to see everyone's viewpoint and circumstances!

cheers

So here's what we're doing: removing the wall between the 12' x 18' kitchen and 12' x 13' DR to make a 12' x 31' kitchen (with an island, peninsula, and room on both ends for seating and/or table areas) and converting the 14' x 20' LR to a formal DR (we're finally getting DR furniture to handle larger groups of people, even though it will be rarely used). So, we're a little different - getting a larger DR but losing a formal LR.

When resale becomes necessary (hopefully 20+ years down the road, but you never know), our formal DR space could easily be converted back to LR use, but then there would be no DR.

Our choice is a trade-off, but in our case we decided we would use a formal DR, even if only a few times a year, more than we ever would a LR (and aren't LR's falling out of use as well if one has a den or other living area?).

drawer handles that don't catch garments.

floor tiles with a subtle echo to these drawer handles.

reflective surfaces, maximizing light.

a "recessed" appliance garage. A useable counter sliver in front of it. (9"?) This is a big change (from the norm, and from the easiest). It makes the cooktop area less cramped, more open and unusual. In the third picture, this is what i see, along with the veining in the stone.

a rolltop cover. The cover is white!

all-drawers. I figure the sink drawers are 30 inches high.

drawer heights all lined up. Straight sight lines. Easy on the eyes. (The loss is not a big deal: one may have to lay a blender on its side, and do a few other things to compensate, like storing some large items somewhere else.)

a slim cooking exhaust air extraction "panel" not a visible hood. I'll guess that it slides out when in use.

veining continuing across the three stone planes.

alternating simplicity and complexity. One complements the other, or compensates for the other. Most of the color and finish is of such a reduced set that it calls out for something else to compensate. You get it in stone veining of great complexity. Ceiling floor walls and trim are "reduced set". Minor differences in the light white hues become an attractive element, visible to the user but not to us seeing photographs. Walls and backsplash are reflective surfaces (you can see yourself) but not outright mirrors. Backsplash, a deliberately darker color, is simple. Grout is the same color, dark in the backsplash, white in the floor. There is only one main attraction. The stone is the main attraction.

pendants in three's. Soft white light bulb covers that let most of the light out. Reflected in the other surfaces.

beveling the junction of the three stone planes so that the island looks somewhat like a piece of furniture. (This costs a few hundred more than the brute force alternative, a mere countertop plunked down on supporting panels, straight cut square butt end).

on both sides the counter overhang wraps down and makes the side return panels bigger, as a way to define and enclose space in a area where there may feel to be too much "open space". The drawers become "contained" as if in INSET face-frame cabinets. This is quite an achievement because these are frameless cabinets

a full wall of verticals, containing the fridge. The wall becomes a utility wall; the fridge becomes a subset of the wall's functionality.

a corner pantry with five sides (like a corner tub, or "neo-angle" shower, a 5-sided shape that maximizes corners). So efficient! Just big enough to be arm-reachable. No walk-in standing around wasted space.

a faucet with a reduced function set. (Once again, the tradeoffs are not big.) The angles of the handle and spout are just enough to help it all be "non-square" ; the rest of it is made of right-angled components echoing the entire kitchen. The handle is centered in front, the spout is slender, and the non-roundedness of every component make it more of everything you might wish for to match the inherent quality of the other architectural choices : unusual and unaverage.

One of the four chairs can be placed somewhere else and the three remaining chairs still occupy the space perfectly: round chairs under round pendants.

I'll guess that an electrical outlet is in the island, but only if you open a drawer.

I'm glad you posted this.

Hth

You will not need the trim ring if you purchase Cree LR6/ CR6.

You can find all the components on polar-ray.com or other similar web sites.

(imo)
I would avoid the LED strips from either Home Depot or Lowes. I wasn't too impressed by the products from Kichler.

Other tips
Try to have the lights joined end to end to avoid dark spots.
If you have a corner, the lights should be placed like a L if possible to minimize the shadow zone.

Here is a link that might be useful: Philips eW Profile powercore

The strips need to be handled with some amount of care to avoid breaking smd (surface mount device) solder joints.

The bending direction is most likely orthogonal to the direction you would like the strip to bend.

Pros
They are more easily cut, which probably works better for some.

The profile is significantly lower. Can be used at the toe kick.

They also cost less (in general).

I would strongly recommend pricing several alternatives
1. Do a mock layout of strips (sized to fit). The strips may come in 6", 12", ... sections, depending on who you get them from. You need to confirm with your cabinet maker whether the cabinets have a flat bottom all the way (cabinets 15, 14). Cabinet 12 could be on a separate run.
2. Count all the strips and interconnects under the cabinet.
3. Plan the location of your transformer (assuming low voltage). It needs to be accessible.
4. Estimate the length of wiring needed.
5. Figure out the gauge of the wire given the total length, power consumption of each run. EnvironmentalLights has a nice table to help. The calculations are available on other sites too.
6. Add 10 - 15% margin to get the size of the dimming power supply.
7. Depending on the power supply, you will either use an electronic low voltage (ELV) or magnetic low voltage (MLV) dimmer. Never use an incandescent dimmer.

For the eW PowerCore profile from Philips, you just need to figure out the lengths needed, number of interconects and the place where the (AC 120v) wire will come out from the wall. It uses a ELV dimmer.

If you intend to light the toe kick, plan on having a separate circuit. Most likely, you'll need to use flexible light strips for that area.

CFL use about 25% of the electricity of an incandescent, while an LED light uses about 2%. So look at the money you can save there.

LED lights use 1/50 of the energy of a standard bulb and last 10 times longer than their CFL alternatives. LEDs can last 15 years. They are much safer to use where a CFL could accidentally get broken (lamps, children's rooms). There won't be any concern with mercury when you use LED lights.

LED lights come on instantly, unlike CFL, especially when installed in a cold room. Nothing like that ghastly orange/pink glow first thing in the morning in the bathroom, cast by CFL. They can't get rid of stupid mercury-containing CFL soon enough for me, and replace them with LED!!!! We have to bag burned-out CFL and take them to the hazardous waste collection site to dispose of them.

We've been using CFL since they became affordable - back in the 1990's - long before "light bulb socialism" came into existence.

-Grainlady

According to the kitchen designer (and separate lighting designer we worked with,) 5" were recommended for general kitchen lighting. (4" is more directed/task lighting.)

Apologies to those who have them (and we had them, too!) I've heard 6" cans referred to as "cheap/builder grade" (or "dated" as above posters noted) by these same individuals.

We used 5" cans throughout the kitchen + 4" cans just above the island. (And I really went back and forth about the decision whether to use all 5", or a combo of two. I think I should have done all 5")

I hate, hate, hate recessed lighting (We have an old house, so I have a knee-jerk, "ack it's too modern!" sensibility.) Nonetheless, we got talked into cans for the kitchen (and more than I wanted!)

The first time I saw the space at night, I realized we should have used MORE cans!

You cannot have too much light. You could always put your lights on a dimmer (and/or use lower watt bulbs) if they seem too bright now, but your older eyes (or the eyes of your home's future occupants) will thank you later :)

I found them in the electrical section, but they can be hard to spot. Here's some pics to help you find them:

Another thing, check out Bondera tile mat from Lowe's. Home Depot sells a similar product, but it's not as good. Bondera is great for a backsplash or small project. It's just not recommended for areas that are in constant contact with water. Basically it's a double stick, foamy mat. You cut it to size, stick it to the wall, peel the protection film off and press your tile on. Beware, this stuff is super sticky and a bit hard to get off if you accidently get it on the counter. Ask me how I know this. Just have some Goo Gone handy. I used it to tile around my daughter's bathroom mirror. It worked great and has held up really well since I did it almost a year ago. Sorry no pics of it and DD is sleeping.

Once you stick up the tiles, you can grout the same day, unlike traditional thin set where you have to wait.

http://bonderatilematset.com/

And although it may sound like I work for Lowes with all this free advertisement, I don't. It's just closer to me than the other guys.

I've also attached a "how to" link for you.
Good luck and post pics!

Here is a link that might be useful: How to tile a backsplash

I spent my money on the integrated frig because the full integration was very worth it to me in the esthetics of the kitchen design. By the time I spent what I considered to be a "significant" amount of money on the cabinets, I did not want to look at the stainless refrigerator. BUT YMMV.... I did NOT want to see the ice dispenser on the frig. The price jump from a counter depth to fully integrated frig is $3000 or more with only minimally "more" function added to it, like plllog says! Not only that, the cabinet guy charges you for the panel....

Some of the brands can have the paneled refrig recessed from the side panels giving you that gorgeous furniture look. This truly is an esthetic purchase without any added functional benefit! Each person has different criteria for what is acceptable and what is not.

I also spent my money on the Miele Speed oven because I wanted a fully functioning second oven that doubled as MW to save space. Space consideration was driving the decision regarding 2 appliances, ie second oven plus the MW versus 1 that doubled as both!

Both of these "expensive" appliances perform beautifully for me and it was very worth it to me. I really looked hard trying to save money to get what I wanted on these two appliances but I could not...

I have had Miele, Asko, and Bosch DW... I took a new Bosch out of my house for performance issues that were less than optimal for me. The capacity was significantly less than the other brands. Sometimes, you just have to use the appliance to see how it works for you... I currently have a low to mid level Miele that replaced the "higher end" Bosch that I did not like. For me, Miele is performing better.

I am an occasional baker, not an experienced baker. So I was okay with the oven that came with the all gas range. My home made pizzas and bread come out crusty and well baked out of the gas range. I don't bake nor know how to bake multi layered cakes. I do bake muffins, cookies, easy cakes. I don't know what it is to have a super expensive oven! I have not tried to bake bread in my speed oven. I don't think it has enough oomph even though it is a 240V. I could be wrong.

One of the important things about good ovens is the heat recovery. I actually have a gas oven (all gas range) with 30k BTU burner. These ovens have amazing heat recovery. It probably is no where as accurate as the more expensive electric ovens. I am sure the temp goes up and down far more than acceptable for experienced bakers on the forum. (it seems steady enough to me but i just don't know)

Better electric ovens will have 10 pass, 12 pass broiler, again, giving you impressive broiling performance. I have infrared broiler in the gas oven which gives an amazing performance.

I think for me, the sweet spot in value is my heavy duty all gas range: 10 year old Viking range that I have LOVED and kept because I did not want to spend more money to replace what I already have and like. I would happily purchase another gas range, which is a value to me because it would be much more expensive to buy a comparable cooktop and a separate oven... I also like the esthetics of a range. I like the performance of a range when meats and fish go from the cooktop to the oven quickly.
Hood: again, if you create a custom hood cover, then there is your budget that goes to the cabinet guy. Even though the insert may not be expensive, the total hood expenditure is high! Again, it is the esthetics driving your purchase decision.

Good luck.

Dishwashers probably have just as many differences as fridges, but there are a heck of a lot of fancy settings on a lot of dishwashers that no one ever uses, so people are just as happy with their mid-range ones. There may also be a difference in how quiet the DW is (or the fridge, for that matter), and other less tangible features, that some folks are willing to pay extra for and which those who don't want to pay for them are quite willing to live without. The fewest differences seem to be in induction cooktops, unless you're looking to self import a "zoneless" one. :) Except the dual compressor thing. That's worth spending the extra bucks on the fridge-freezer for, for sure.

Oh, yes!! I have a Gaggenau combi-steam oven!! It is totally fabulous. It is so danged easy to blanch asparagus, for instance. I won't eat mushy asparagus, and it comes out perfectly in the steam oven. The "regenerate" setting is great for rewarming a plate of mixed foods so that they're all hot and none are overcooked or shriveled, or weird. And while my Gaggenau convection oven does roast and braise a treat, you can do just fine with a less precise oven. My number one priority in my remodel was the Gaggenau ovens, however. I waited to get the work done until I could have them do the digging for the plumbing. This is a major commitment. You can buy a high end range for the price of the combi-steam.

Big piece of advice--ignore the rebates unless they allow you to get just what you want. There is no single maker that does a good enough job of everything. Go with your set pattern and get the best that fits in your budget in each category. Really.

Jenny, Gas cooking is a whole different issue. I've heard (though haven't experienced) that the current gas ovens, especially the ones with convection, are pretty accurate and do a decent job. There are also dual fuel ranges, which have electric ovens. Sometimes those have problems with the heat causing problems for the electronics, but in general people like them. There are rangetops, which is the top section of a range with the knobs in front, and "drop-in" gas cooktops.

When you're choosing gas cooking, there's burner configuration, power output, burner size, open vs. closed, simmer ability, separate simmer ring/stacked burner, burner shape (ring, star, etc.), etc., etc. Are you talking mid-range residential style unit, pro-look, or pro-style? Those categories come with different price ranges.

I can't advise you about brands on these. Go to a website like Universal-AKB or AJMadison and take a look at what they're offering. Most of the mid-range stoves have the price posted. If it's "call for a quote" you can go ahead and call, but it's probably a high end unit.

The big difference between induction cooktops is in the features and controls. You can play the "more power" game, but at a certain level there isn't much noticable difference for going for more power. The listed top amount is only available under certain circumstances. If you're looking at overall power, the amount of sharing between paired elements is likely to have a bigger impact on your cooking. Having more power steps (17 instead of 9, for the main controls), means better controls, but most of them have that now, though some of them make you look around in the instructions to figure it out, and only tell you they have the 9, not including the half steps that get you 17. Countdown timers let you set an element to turn off after a time. Turns your cooktop into an automatic rice cooker or egg boiler. These are nice, but not essential. The rest is how you like the way the controls operate, etc., and if there are features like fry control or child lockout that you're looking for. The actual cooking on the most expensive unit vs. the low-mid-range is pretty small.

Some of the biggest cooking differences are in tolerance. Some units detect and work on less optimal pans, where others reject them, and some let you lift a pan off for a few seconds without turning off, while others shut off right away. I don't think that correlates much with price, other than that the higher end is potentially more responsive to consumer feedback, and "fixes" issues, and at the very low end, they may get the most out of an established technology before changing it.

For fridges, there is a significant difference in features when you get to the top tier, but there are many perfectly good refrigerators in the mid-range, and the cheapest one will keep stuff cold. On the cusp between the mid and high range are built-ins like the Thermador and Liebherr, which have a few less bells and whistles, but have the look and configuration that a lot of high end customers demand, with a more accessible price. If your wife really wants the combined unit, do get one with dual compressors. It makes a big difference. That said, most people are very happy with their mid-range fridges, and the fancy lighting, air and water filters, supercooling button, temperature zones, etc., while lovely to have, aren't really required to have a happy life.

Speedovens cost a lot more than microwaves. If you're going to use the features, they're great. I can say that my Advantium on MW only is the best microwave I've ever used. I suppose that is the mid-range, compared to the Miele, or especially the Turbochef. I think Electrolux and Thermador also have one now.

People here love Miele dishwashers, and seem just as happy, or happier with their mid-range models. The favorite American dishwasher (with heating element) seems to be the KitchenAid, which also has good entries in several different price points.

Ovens and hoods are the hardest ones. If you don't bake, you can probably make do with any oven, but they currently design ovens towards energy standards rather than for cooking. The mid-range favorites seem to be Fisher & Paykel (though one member had trouble with the enamel interior flaking from the self-clean cycle) and Electrolux. Gaggenau and Wolf seem to be the overall best rated ones, but they're definitely more expensive, and might be diminishing returns if you're not rabid about ovens.

For a standard induction cooktop, any 600 cfm hood is probably adequate unless you do a lot of high heat, multipot, frying, charring, boil-ups. Recommendation is to have a few extra inches of hood in all directions for best capture. Do check out make-up air requirements if your house is well sealed. Given the function of the hood and anything else in the HVAC that you need to address, the rest of the price is for looks. You can have the exterior be a piece of custom artwork, choose your own materials from a list for semi-custom, or buy one that comes in a box with a standard look that you like. I think they even have them at Costco. A little too much power is better than too little. Other differences are whether there are continuous controls (vs. a few settings--some people add a continuous control after market), lights that you like, and style of filter/easy of cleaning.

Conclusion, yes, I think you can find a sweet spot on pricing, but you'll have to evaluate what that is for each appliance you're looking at. Have fun shopping!

Likes:
- the bridge burner and griddle
- 18K BTU burner for wok cooking and water boiling
- analog oven temp dial
- convection oven
- in-oven temp probe for roasts
- looks

Dislikes:
- oven racks a little sticky pulling in and out, wish it had the roller racks
- lack of fine burner control on the back left burner
- ceramic range top kind of a pain to keep clean

I found out that these ranges are made by Electrolux in Canada. The Pro ranges are essentially rebranded Electrolux Icon ranges with a few different bells/whistles.

We got it from Sears for about $2800 on sale and at that price it was a no-brainer. If you can get it for that or less, I'd think its a great value for a pro-style range.

Hope this helps.

Chris