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RE: The difference 8 weeks makes (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: Ninkasi on 08.12.2014 at 07:01 am in Miniature Roses Forum

Thank you all!
It has tons of flowers on it now, it is doing great! Thanks to everyone on the forum that has shared their experiences.

The photo changing effect is called a gif-- you can make your own many places online such as makeagif.com or gifmaker.me
Its way easier than uploading a bunch of pictures to photobucket or something similar, and you dont need an account or anything.
--nin

NOTES:

What a fabulous gif!
clipped on: 08.21.2014 at 09:29 am    last updated on: 08.21.2014 at 09:29 am

RE: Why Are Built-In Range Inserts All So Shallow?!? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: kaseki on 08.02.2014 at 12:46 pm in Appliances Forum

Hmmm. It is best if the insert/liner provide all the capture area else the wood will collect grease. I would argue that the bottom of the liner flare outward to cover the bottom of the wood cabinetry. Even if this wood is high enough to have a very low probability of being flambed, heat will tend to dry it out causing other problems. At a minimum there should be minimal gap between the wood cabinet cover inside and the liner at the point where capture is taking place.

The hood can be high enough to not bump one's head. If the cook is particularly tall, then the hood may have to become wider/deeper to retain good cooking plume capture area (angle from pans).

This has to be worked out by sketching or other means to determine the dimensions actually necessary, and then contact the Modern-Aires of the world for suggestions and quotes.

Schemes that put MUA into the hood just interfere with the upward rise and collection of effluent. MUA should be introduced to the kitchen area in a manner that is least disruptive to the rising cooking plumes. In hood testing, a perforated wall providing laminar flow across the test area is often used; in a residence other schemes are necessary, such as injecting it down a nearby hall, or from the kitchen ceiling so that it is directed away from the hood across the kitchen ceiling allowing it to spread out before returning to the cooktop area, or from under the stove (may cause cold feet), etc. There are many possible schemes. Integration with a furnace can be done, but the airflow is much higher than the furnace would normally move, at possibly higher pressure drop (so some care in design is needed).

What flows out has to flow in. If the MUA is restricted, so will the actual cfm moved by the hood.

Control is another issue; one that I don't have time to repeat here, but has been touched upon in several other threads in this forum.

kas

NOTES:

Makeup air info.
clipped on: 08.04.2014 at 11:15 pm    last updated on: 08.04.2014 at 11:16 pm

RE: Tips for living without a sink for a week? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: lulundave on 12.05.2007 at 02:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

I too am living thorough a major renovation. We are onto month #4.I never went without a sink.

My hubby used a sawsall to cut out the old counter that the sink sits in. Then he cut 2 X 4's and strapped up the sink to the wall temporarily. Super simple!

One 2X4 supports the unit on the wall and two 2X4's come down on a 45 degree and are screwed from the front of the sink into the wall.

We were able to tile the floor with this on. We painted around it. We could do dishes!!!

Hope this description helps.

I am so excited as my new cabinets and counter will be installed tomorrow. So, I will be without a sink for at least a day or so. But...we will manage.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.02.2014 at 08:06 pm    last updated on: 08.02.2014 at 08:07 pm

RE: How drywall over such a box? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: uvascanyon on 08.09.2013 at 04:23 pm in Remodeling Forum

Don't get me started on wallpaper. Yes, vinegar and water in spray bottles has been our method of choice. We've tried everything I think, including a steamer I purchased... Not exactly a small house, and every room but the master and hallway are covered in this stuff.

I don't want to get too off topic, but yes, the adhesive / paste is important to get off. If not, it will f-up the mud, texturing and paint that follows. I will go back to vinegar for that too. I will also try a product called Krud Kutter, which I've read good things about...

Once that is off, I will prime to seal-in what I might not have removed. A product called Gardz is the only primer for which I could find that will seal-in this stuff, and not allow it to bleed through...

Ok, back to the topic. I removed a couple of these "boxes". These are nailed to the front of the studs. A couple photos...

NOTES:

Wallpaper removal and sealer mentioned here.
clipped on: 07.31.2014 at 09:17 am    last updated on: 07.31.2014 at 09:17 am

RE: Does an induction cooktop need a less powerful vent? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: plllog on 04.07.2014 at 12:34 am in Appliances Forum

You haven't overstayed. You're asking the questions that the silent majority who never post wants the answers to.

A larger fan on a lower setting will do a better job of venting than a smaller fan on a higher setting. I don't remember the physics, but Kas and others have provided the reasons, if you're interested in doing a search.

You don't need more power with induction because even if you didn't vent, you'd just have smells and cooking gunk. With gas you have potentially harmful stuff in the air. Given that, however, the recommendations are usually tied to what your stove will be doing on full tilt, regardless of fuel. That is, if you're grilling bacon and frying potatoes on two elements, boiling up a huge pot of bones in the middle, searing the meat you removed from the bones, and sauteing aromatics on the last element (i.e., starting stew and stock, and making breakfast), all at once, what do you need to pull from all that heat and effluent?

Even with induction, it's great if you have the space to have the canopy three inches bigger than the cooktop on all sides, and I wouldn't go under 600 cfm. For what I described above, you might want more like 1000. :) I don't think your 715 (not knowing the brand, just the number) is out of line at all.

You do need to be concerned about makeup air, though, especially if there's a gas appliance inside the house, or even a gas fireplace. In a well sealed house, a strong vent hood can pull out enough oxygen to snuff out a pilot light on a furnace, interfere with a dryer, etc., and can make a noticeable pressure difference between inside and outside. Some places require a specific ingress for make up air (MUA), while others let you put in what you want and expect you to open a window. If you have climate extremes, even if your house isn't sealed, you might want the makeup air to be cooled or heated. These are things to talk over with your contractor and/or building department.

NOTES:

Good explanation of make up air neede.
clipped on: 07.24.2014 at 02:05 pm    last updated on: 07.24.2014 at 02:05 pm

RE: Undermount sink support, plywood or metal clips/rods? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: Trebruchet on 06.11.2014 at 01:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

The Hercules Universal Sink Harness will support any sink permanently. It is inexpensive, yet turns your sink into a 10" deep truss, making one of the weakest parts of your countertop into the strongest:

Here is a link that might be useful: HUSH

NOTES:

Something to check with contractor about!
clipped on: 07.08.2014 at 09:21 am    last updated on: 07.08.2014 at 09:21 am

RE: Plllog, about your lighting... (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: plllog on 06.14.2014 at 05:27 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi Eleena,

Amazing about the shout-outs. I never thought there were that many! I hope I didn't miss any.

My lighting started with a big hate or three. Before this house I had almost always had fluorescent lighting in kitchens. The exception was a tiny kitchen in a college apartment which hardly had any lighting at all, but I was hardly ever home to notice. :) The old kitchen in the current house had 6" cans, and not nearly enough to light the whole kitchen.

Edit: I had meant to say that I was also hamstrung by California law which limits how much incandescent lighting one can use. I had to have a lot of fluorescent and LED to justify just the halogens and my one incandescent hanging fixture that takes a very low watt bulb.

Hate #1: Shadows and bright spots. Such things are find for "drama" but I don't want a dramatic house, especially not in a workspace. All the dark spots were depressing and I hated being in the old kitchen at night.

Hate #2: Fluorescent light. Fluorescent is washy light that chases away shadows, and is certainly better than the too few cans, but the old style flickers, and because it's washy, things look a little blurry. I hate blurry worse than flickering. I go to great lengths to get glasses that correct my vision to very sharp, and I hate having it dulled by the light.

Hate #3: The color of fluorescent lights. My eyes have always been sensitive to light and color (I used to consult on color design), and as a grown up who cooks, I just couldn't bear the 3000K light color temperature.

Hate #4: Pocked ceilings. This is an aesthetic consideration. I have recessed cans all over my house because that's the way it came. The rooms are pretty large and don't lend themselves to lamps very well (tripping hazards), so they're useful. But I hate seeing the gaps in the ceilings.

I kept putting off lighting. My contractor knows vast quantities of things, but other than making Swiss cheese of my ceiling and putting in a bazillion cans, he had no suggestions. I asked the Lighting Forum, where I was referred to the fairly new design studio that a local electrical supply company had. Where they also have lighting designers. I could see the products in installed settings, including kitchens. The rate for lighting design was very reasonable. And I lucked out big time, that the designer I hired there, Brian Brzycki, had just been through almost the same demands with his wife, so I got to piggyback on the research he did for her.

What Brian designed for me was a combination of lighting layers. There are fluorescent lights to fill the room, but they're the new style very thin tubes, and there are a lot of them. They don't flicker much, and have the color temperature reduced to a sunshiny yellow (2700K). MUCH easier on the eyes. The downlighting over the island is too strong for me, and does flicker a bit, so I keep it dimmed, and only turn it on when I'm actually working on the island at night.

The up lighting in that fixture fills the room. It's bounced off the pale orange ceiling, which mutes any flicker, and is very easy on the eyes. Most of the time it's all I use. Plenty of unshadowed light even underneath it on the island. That is, it's less light underneath the fixture with the downlights off, but because of the nature of fluorescent light, there's no shadow line, and it's just less light underneath, not dark. Certainly enough to measure to feed my sourdough starter, though I'd turn on the down light if I were actually making bread.

Add to that, perimeter cans with glass diffusers, which defuse both hot spots and pock marks, undercabinet, color corrected LED's, dual cans over the clean-up sink, four halogens in the hood, plus several cans and LED's in the butler's pantry, and there aren't any unlit spots, no buzzing, very little flickering, nothing too bright for my eyes, but full light rather than anything dim. Brian more than earned his fee.

So that's the how's and the whys of it. :) The only piece I chose all by myself was the little tulip pendant in the peak under the stairs, but it's just there for seeing into the understairs broom closet or using as a nightlight or decor.

Hope this helps.

This post was edited by plllog on Sun, Jun 15, 14 at 15:46

NOTES:

Good info for light sensitive eyes.
clipped on: 06.23.2014 at 08:51 am    last updated on: 06.23.2014 at 08:52 am

RE: Everything I Wanted to Know About Drawers... (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: angela12345 on 02.02.2013 at 02:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have posted this other places before, but I am going to try to consolidate it *all* in one place.

My kitchen cabinets from UltraCraft are semi-custom. LOVE them. They are Frameless cabinets that allow size modifications in 1/16" increments to height, width, and depth (or all 3) at no additional cost. So, go ahead and make your uppers 13" or 14" deep for those extra large mixing/salad bowls and charger plates, and maximize your storage space by storing glasses 4 deep instead of 3 deep. Make your toekick shorter so you have more drawers height and/or have deeper base cabinets. Cut down on the fillers you need by making your cabinets the exact width you need them, instead of being forced to choose from 3" increments. I like that all my uppers are flat across the bottom (no frame/dividers between cabinets), so I could install one long plugmold and one long under cabinet light, then hide it all with lightrail at the front. Also, standard is Blum full extension soft close drawer glides, soft close doors, no charge for finished sides (like end of cabinet run), dovetail drawers with fully captured bottoms, and bunches of other stuff is standard. 100 year warranty. http://www.ultracraft.com/ LOVE them !!!

Cabinet Decisions - I narrowed down the decisions that need to be made for a friend ...
1. One of the first things to decide is what cabinet door overlay you want. Inset doors or overlay doors ? Inset doors sit inside of the cabinet box frame rather than in front of the cabinet box. Overlay is further broken down into traditional overlay, partial / modified overlay, and full overlay and determines how much of the cabinet box/frame behind the door you want to show. The overlay you choose will automatically knock out some cabinet options and cabinet mfgs who may not make that type of cabinet. (My cabinets are full overlay)
See ... http://www.kraftmaid.com/learn/choose-right-cabinetry/door-overlays/

2. Then you want to decide on the cabinet boxes … framed or frameless ? Some mfgs only make one or the other, but not both, so this will knock out other mfgs. Framed cabinets have a frame on the face of the cabinet box that the doors attach to and allows for inset doors as well as all 3 overlay styles (traditional, partial, and full overlay). On frameless, the doors attach directly to the cabinet box sides instead of a face frame. Frameless are typically full overlay, but inset is also possible. Partial overlay may be possible, but I am not sure about that. Traditional overlay is not possible on frameless. (My cabinets are frameless)
See ... http://www.cabinets.com/FORM/THE BOX - construction.asp

The disadvantage of framed is you give up useable space in drawers/pullouts and ease of access on cabinets with doors. This is because the drawer or pullout has to clear the face frame that goes around the opening, so they are narrower from side to side and also shallower from top to bottom. In a small kitchen, the extra useable space from frameless could make a big difference. Estimates say frameless gives 10-15% more space, so 100 inches of framed would be 110 inches in frameless. To me, an extra 10 inches of drawer space is huge, especially when you don't have much to begin with !! Frameless cabinets with doors also offer easier access - there is no face frame creating a 1-2" obstruction on the left, right, and top inside the cabinet doors, also there is typically no center stile between double doors in frameless.

For full overlay doors, there is very little difference in the looks of framed vs frameless. From an exterior appearance standpoint, these cabinets will basically look alike. Because the doors are full overlay, you don't see much or any of the frame and would have to open the door or drawer to see if the cabinet was framed or frameless. For inset doors, the framed cabinets would have a wider frame around the door than the frameless cabinet would.

In the below two pics, the cabinet on the left is framed, and the one on the right is frameless. Looking only at the size of the opening, see how the drawer for frameless is wider from left to right and also has more open space from top to bottom. The useable drawer space is a couple inches more in each direction in the frameless. If they both had the same size full overlay exterior drawer face on them, they would look alike from the exterior. You would not be able to see the useable interior space until you opened the drawer. If they both had inset doors, the framed cabinets would have a much wider "frame" around the door and drawer.

3. The third thing to consider is the door style you like, the drawer style (slab/flat drawer front or raised), as well as wood species (cherry, oak, maple, etc), and stain or paint colors, glazing, etc. This website shows some of the different door styles available ... http://www.cabinets.com/FORM/THE DOOR - style.asp

4. The fourth thing to consider is stock cabinets vs semi-custom vs custom cabinet mfgs. Stock cabinets are available in 3" width increments (cabinets have to be width of 12", 15", 18", etc), filler strips fill in gaps between cabinets and wall or appliances, you have to choose from the heights and depths they offer, and there are very few options available, which can be pretty pricey to add on. Semi-custom cabinets vary by manufacturer in what customizations and options they offer, but they offer many more options than stock and allow sizing modifications. With custom cabinets, there should be no limitations including drawings for non-standard items, custom molding profiles, door styles, alternate wood species, custom stains & finishes, construction, accessories and options.

5. Finally, you want to consider the cabinet construction. Not that this is the least important ! It is one of the most important things. Pretty much all the other stuff is just the "pretty" stuff, LOL. This has to do with how well the cabinets are made - are the drawers stapled, dowelled, glued, dovetail ? What materials are the cabinets made of ? etc, etc.

Drawer Heights
The height of my drawer fronts do not line up all the way around the 4 sides of my kitchen, but do line up when you are looking at any one section at a time. I have 2 stacks together that are 6-12-12 separated by a stove. On the opposite corner of the kitchen are 2 stacks that are 6-6-9-9. What helps is that my stacks are caddy-cornered across the kitchen with appliances and base cabinets with doors separating them ... it would be very hard to look in any direction where you could see the "mis-matches" at one time.

My one advice ... find out the interior useable height of your drawers ahead of time. My Ultracraft cabinets are frameless so have more than framed would. They have undermount glides. On the 6-12-12 stacks, the useable interior drawer height is 4, 10.5, 9.5 (top to bottom on stack). Where this becomes an issue ... I wanted to store all of my pans, pots, etc vertical on their edges in the drawers so they wouldn't have to be stacked. The middle 10.5" drawers are tall enough for all of the casserole/baking dishes and pie tins, the roasting pan, and almost all of the pans, pots, and lids to stand on edge (the 9.5" drawers are not tall enough for a few of those items to stand on edge). Both height drawers are definitely tall enough for all of the big pots (even the 8qt stockpot) that I own except the huge "canning" pot.

Obviously, neither drawer is tall enough for my 12" pans/skillets to stand on edge (arrggh!). I have really been struggling with how to store these. Right now I have them flat in the bottom of the 9.5" height bottom drawer. Big waste of real estate !! I wish I had a shallower drawer I could put the big skillets in, or either had made my drawer heights 6-9-15 which would have given me 4, 7.5, 12.5 useable. My tallest 8qt pots are 7" tall, so all of them could have gone in the middle drawer and everything on edge could have gone in the bottom drawer (including the 12" skillets!). Google for images of drawers with pans on edge.

On the other side of the kitchen with the 6-6-9-9 stacks, the useable interior drawer height is 4, 4.75, 6.75, 7 (top to bottom). I use the top 6" drawers all around the kitchen for silverware, spatulas and all the other kitchen gadgets, in-drawer knife block, foil wax paper cling wrap and plastic baggies, potholders, dish towels, etc. All of those things fit with no problem in these drawers including the ladle and the box grater. The 3rd drawer holds all of the tupperware and is the perfect height for this - 6 would have been too shallow and 12 would have been too deep. The bottom drawer is where we currently keep the paper and plastic grocery bags until we carry them for recycling.

(note: the interior drawer heights listed above vary slightly for the bottom two 12" drawers, for the top two 6" drawers, and for the bottom two 9" drawers because of an interior cross support.)

Drawer depths
My bases are 24" deep bases and are all 20" useable interior from front to back. I could have and should have requested the drawers be an extra 1-2 inches deep to fill up the inside of the cabinet. I *think* the full extension glides would not have pulled out that extra inch or so, but I could have lived with that !! I could have fit my 8qt stock pots 2 front to back in the drawer instead of having to offset them slightly if I had even an extra 1/2".

Drawer widths
The maximum cabinet width my manufacturer would do for drawer bases is 36" wide. I have 4 drawer bases at 21" wide 3 drawer, 32" 3 drawer, 17" 4 drawer, 36" 4 drawer. The interior useable width of these drawer bases are 18, 29, 14, 33 wide, so 3" less than the exterior width.

The 21" 3 drawer 6-12-12 is to the left of my stove. Top drawer holds knife block, sharpener, scissors, trivets, potholders. 2nd drawer holds baking dishes on their edge. Bottom drawer is basically empty - it has one 8qt stockpot.

The 32" 3 drawer 6-12-12 is to the right of the stove. Top drawer holds spatulas, spoons, ladles, wood spoons, basting brushes, meat thermometer, etc that are used at the stove. 2nd drawer holds frying pans, the smaller pots (1qt 2qt 3qt), and lids all on their edges. Bottom drawer holds 8qt pots. Also 12" skillets with lids, splatter screens, and griddle - all stacked in one stack flat in bottom of drawer, Grrrrrrr.

The 17" 4 drawer stack 6-6-9-9 is on the opposite corner of the kitchen next to the peninsula. The top drawer holds foil, wax paper, cling wrap, plastic baggies, chip clips, and restaurant menus. The 2nd drawer is our "junk" drawer and has some of everything including screwdrivers, clothespins, matches, flashlights, sewing kit, lint brush, etc. The 3rd drawer holds medicine, bandaids, alcohol, peroxide, as well as dish towels and plastic utensils from takeout restaurants in a tub. The bottom drawer is for tupperware without partners - bowls and lids with no matches.

The 36" 4 drawer stack 6-6-9-9 forms the peninsula. The top drawer holds all eating utensils (silverware and kid utensils), serving utensils, chopsticks, etc. The 2nd drawer holds all the other kitchen gadgets that aren't to the left and right of the stove like shrimp deveiners, graters, whisks, rolling pin, etc, etc. The 3rd drawer holds tupperware with their matching lids. The bottom drawer holds paper and plastic grocery bags until we carry them for recycling.

Handles
We went with the same size handle for all of our drawers and also only one handle for all of the drawers, no matter what the width of the drawer. They are 4" wide. We maybe would have used different widths, but the ones we liked in the finish we wanted did not come in a bunch of widths. The cabinet guy said they would look fine and they do. We have slab drawer fronts and the pulls are centered top to bottom and side to side on each drawer.

Drawer Organizers
We ordered the drawer divider channels from Lee Valley so we could completely customize the interior of our drawers. They often have free shipping on orders over $40. Google for lots of gardenweb members who have used these. www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?p=40168

 photo 4-5-11-kitchen.jpg

My husband is jumping up and down to go eat lunch, so I will add pics and finish this when I get back (Like I haven't already included enough ?!?!?!!?)

NOTES:

Helpful info on cab construction/ drawers.
clipped on: 02.02.2013 at 02:58 pm    last updated on: 06.22.2014 at 08:09 pm

RE: 36" Induction cooktop? (Thermador, Wolf, Miele) (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: plllog on 06.21.2014 at 07:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

Try the Appliances forum for more responses.

I have Gaggenau and love it.

The biggest differences between various standard induction cooktops are the power in each element, the amount of boost and/or power-sharing there is, and the type of controls/additional features. The latter includes individual timers for each element or not, individual controls for each element or not, "true timers" that count down and turn off, memory programmable functions, tap tap buttons vs. arrays vs. sliders vs. knobs... Stuff like that. There also may be noise differences both in the elements and cooling fans. Read the manuals and choose the most appealing features. All of them seem to be well made and function correctly. You can't really make a bad choice among your options.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.21.2014 at 07:29 pm    last updated on: 06.21.2014 at 07:29 pm

Furniture 101 : Q&A

posted by: dcollie on 03.07.2007 at 11:50 pm in Furniture Forum

I keep seeing repeated posts here asking how to tell quality....which brand is best, what will last the longest, etc. I thought perhaps it a good thread to address the basic things to look for, under the premise that an educated consumer can make a wise decision. So let's give this a try and not target "brand names" so much as general questions on furniture. This could be a LONG thread and make take quite a few posts to cover topics, but let's get started!

First off, my name is Duane Collie and I own a small home furnishings store in Alexandria, VA. I've been in business since 1979 and specialize in high-quality, American-made 18th century furnishings. Because of the nature of my business, I have learned hundreds of things about what makes a good piece, or a bad piece, or even a mediocre piece (just don't overpay for mediocrity).

Let's start off with something easy, the basic building block of all furniture..>WOOD<

Solid wood is preferable to veneers (which are laminates over a secondary wood) Wider boards are more expensive than narrow boards in solid woods, and more desirable. There are different grades of wood within a type. For example, there are over 200 species of pine and while Southern Yellow is not very good for furniture making, Eastern White Pine is. A cabinetmaker selects his wood based on his project and costs. If he is using an aniline dye and shellac coats, he needs a higher grade of lumber than if he is using covering stains that mask the wood flaws and mineral deposit variables.

Which wood to get? This varies by price and characteristics. Just because a wood is soft, doesn't mean its not suitable for a project. Here's a rundown of some common woods in the USA that are furniture grade:

Pine. Soft, but relatively stable. Eastern White has good, tight knots that will not fall out. Shrinkage and expansion is moderate. Dent resistance is poor. Takes stains nicely.

Poplar. Great Secondary wood (drawer bottoms, etc.) and very stable. Inexpensive. Halfway between a soft and hardwood. Takes paint well, but never stains up nicely.

Cherry. A great lumber! I personally find it more interesting to look at than most mahogany. Its a hardwood, but not as dense as maple. Takes aniline dyes beautifully and requires little or no sealer. Cherry will darken and 'ruby up' with age and exposure to sunlight. If you use it for flooring or kitchen cabinets, expect deeper and more red dish colors to develop over time nearer the windows of your home.

Mahogany. Poor Mahogany! So misunderstood! Mahogany grows in every part of the world, and varies greatly. Figured mahogany is highly desirable (aka as 'plum pudding' or 'crotch' mahogany) but you rarely see it outside of veneers due to the cost of those logs. The very best furniture grade mahogany is from Central America and Cuba, but is very hard to source. African mahogany is decent, and the stuff from China and the Philippines the least desirable. Mahogany can be done in open pore, semi-closed pore, and fully sealer finishes. Mahogany is a favorite for carvers, as it carves easily and is not prone to splitting when being handled.

Maple. Both hard and soft maple is an industry standard. Very durable, very dense, accepts many colors nicely and stains up well. Excellent for the best upholstery frames. Stable, and plentiful.

Figured Maples. Sometimes called Tiger Maple, or Curly Maple (one of my favorites). A small percentage of maple will be highly figured and is pulled off at the mill to sell to furniture makers and musical instrument makes for about 2x the price of regular maple. Tiger maple MUST be board matched and typically a single log will be used to make a project, rather than taking a board from this pile and another from another pile. Consistency is key, and you will hear the term 'bookmatched' used frequently in figured maples. Figured maples look best with aniline dye finishes and hand-scraped surfaces. Birdseye maples are in this category as well, but are so unstable that most shops only use them veneers.

Walnut: A hard wood to work with. Not many walnut forests, and most cabinentmakers loathe making walnut pieces for two reasons. First it much be bleached before it can be finished, otherwise its ugly. Secondly, it has to be filled and sanded. Very time consuming to do properly, but quite a handsome wood when done right (3/4's of all walnut pieces I see is NOT done right)

Oak: Another mainstay wood. Very durable, and dense. Not widely used in fine furniture because of the grain pattern.

There are other woods as well, but those are some of the mainstay furniture woods.

Wood has to be milled to make is usable. It is run through planers, joiners and wide belt sanders to get it to size. The larger and thicker the board, the more expensive it will be. Bed posts and pedestal bases on tables are very expensive to do as solid, non-glued-up pieces. So if you buy a bed, check to see if you see a vertical seam in the lumber which signifies a glue-up. Nothing wrong with glue-ups, just don't pay the price of solid 1-board.

Industry standard is 4/4 (pronounced four quarter) lumber, which when milled will finish out to 7/8" thickness. Anything thicker - or even thinner - requires more expensive wood or more planing time if being thinned out.

Once the wood is planed, it either goes to a wide belt sander or is hand-scraped. If hand-scraped (much more desirable) you will feel a slight ripple when you run your hand over the surface. Belt-sanded items will be perfectly smooth. Cutting the surface of the wood gives you a brighter finish over a sanded surface in a completed product.

Solid wood MOVES. The wider the board, the more it will move with the seasons. Expands in the summer, shrinks in the winter. The art of the furnituremaker is to build to allow this movement, without sacrificing joinery strength. Narrow board furniture does not move nearly as much, and plywoods and veneers don't move at all.

Joinery. The gold standard is Mortise and Tenon. That's the strongest joint where you have intersecting pieces of wood. All mortise and tenoned pieces will have one or two distinctive wood pins visible from the outside of the piece that secure that joint. Next up is Dowel joints. Not as durable as mortise and tenon, but superior to a bolt-in leg. Dowel joints look like M&T joints, but don't have the cross pins. Last choice are legs than bolt on, or are held on by screws. Plastic blocks, staples, nails, hot glue and the like are unacceptable as joinery methods.

I've reached the character limit for this post. More later. Hope you like this thread and will ask general quesions!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.17.2014 at 10:01 pm    last updated on: 06.17.2014 at 10:01 pm

RE: Light rail / UCL - potential issue? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: SparklingWater on 06.15.2014 at 10:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

My GC insisted on direct wire to pulled romex and I didn't stand up to him but I'm very happy with the quality of the light I chose for my 3/4" light rail.

It's called Unilume LED. You buy it by the strip length and it comes with the LV transformer built in and then the electrician wires it to the romex. It has a hard diffuser cover which eliminates spots on the countertop that tapes can cause on some surfaces.It works very well for 3/4' light rail: I even have it on a higher above the sink cabinet and it's not a problem (visibly) because you work face forward. I also put 2000 series tamper resistant plug mold on the back for electricals but due to GFCI requirements some under cabs have those not so pretty outlet boxes (again, it's not like you poke your head under).

LeGrand just came out with their joint GFCI/ LED/plugmold combined system at the time I did this and I didn't know about them. They are low profile and allow iPads and cell phone charge and suspension of small tv. I think they'd be about the same price as I looked later on. Sigh.

Anyway, much less expensive to do the LED tape and transformer if your GC has the patience and know how and cares. Good luck.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.15.2014 at 11:11 pm    last updated on: 06.15.2014 at 11:11 pm

RE: Need your insight - (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: suzannesl on 06.12.2014 at 03:54 am in Kitchens Forum

This is my 32" Krauss sink, and at 5'5" I don't find it to be too deep for comfort. I love my faucet with the sprayer right on the end. It's not too high for form or function.
 photo DSC01166.jpg

You'll probably want a plumber to come and reconfigure your drains and connections and well as connect your DW. Depending on how old your sink connections are, you'd want a plumber anyway to install the newer connections that are so much better than the old ones we had from 1971.

I don't hear you saying you want an air switch for the garbage disposal (that little button on the right). You really, really want one of these - one of my favorite things. Just imagine being able to turn the GD on and off without dripping your wet hand/arm over several feet of counter! Our GD switch used to be over there near where the toaster oven is now.

Although a 32" sink sounds huge, and it is big, it isn't so big as to be silly. I find it the perfect size for soaking dirty pans before I wash them and for all kinds of prep.
 photo sinkgrid.jpg  photo spaghettisauce.jpg

NOTES:

Good sink advice. I should look at this Krause.
clipped on: 06.12.2014 at 09:11 am    last updated on: 06.12.2014 at 09:12 am

Have you adjusted the beater height on your KitchenAid mixer yet?

posted by: plllog on 05.28.2014 at 05:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

A friend was talking about her beater not hitting right, and I needed to adjust mine too, but I didn't know how to describe it to her, and I was feeling too lazy to look for the book. Instead, I found this great video, which shows you, with a dime, how to be sure your adjustment is accurate. The video talks about doing it for if the beater is too low. Mine was a little high--the same thing applies, using the same dime test, but turning the screw the opposite direction.

It was a lot easier than the last time I adjusted it. The dime test is awesome and the video makes it very clear what you should look for.

This video is for tilt head mixers. I would guess that the dime test works with lift mixers, but I don't know for sure.

Disclaimer: I have no connection to this company or YouTube. Just sharing info. :)

NOTES:

Great info!
clipped on: 05.28.2014 at 10:58 pm    last updated on: 05.28.2014 at 10:58 pm

RE: Christopher Peacock cabinets (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: smilingjudy on 05.01.2008 at 11:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

kelleg -

I am in KC(PV) also and am minutes away from making my cabinet decision. As for local makers - Branaman (http://bcimo.com/) will be the least expensive you will find and their customer service (so far) is fabulous. Downside: they use quite a bit of furniture board in their cabinets.

The most expensive quote I received was from Altenhofen (http://cabinetsforlife.com/). Their quality is superb, very small shop, passionate about their stuff. The only other "local" I checked with was Custom Wood Products (via Euston Kitchen Co). Their bid fell right in the middle of the other guys.

Hope this helps.

NOTES:

Local companies for cabs.
clipped on: 05.24.2014 at 06:13 pm    last updated on: 05.24.2014 at 06:14 pm

RE: cabinet construction - plywood box v. particle board (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: kompy on 08.13.2011 at 09:58 am in Kitchens Forum

One more thing I should add:

While I have no problem with vinyl interiors that usually come with a furniture board constructed cabinet....I ALWAYS upgrade the EXPOSED exterior end panels. It can be just a plain wood veneer end, an applied door or an integrated matching doorstyle.

It's funny how many homeowners don't realize their cabinet end panels are not wood. It looks so real, but for minimal cost, I think it's a better decision to save on the box construction....and get the integrated end panels. Or upgrade to a better cabinet manufacturer with a better finish.

I would also like to point out that in my last house I DID upgrade to the all wood box with wood interiors....no furniture board at all. The cost to upgrade for me wasn't that much, so I did it. After a few years, I did have some shelves delaminate a bit. I also found them harder to clean. Spilled soy sauce stained them....spilled honey jar was very hard to clean.

NOTES:

Hope to remember when shopping cabs.
clipped on: 05.24.2014 at 04:58 pm    last updated on: 05.24.2014 at 04:58 pm

RE: Air gaps--anything new out there? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: plllog on 05.23.2014 at 06:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

I like my airgap! I like knowing that I have to clean out the muck when it barfs! Weird crap that people put down the disposer behind your back comes up in the airgap. Like plastic film and twigs (disposable chopsticks?).

Mine is a Blanco cutie with ridges. It looks like a Dalek and R2D2 had a whelp. :) Waterstone and Newport Brass make a number of interesting and stylish ones.

Blanco air gap

They also make ones that are also above counter soap dispensers and clever newer ones that are below counter and just have big pump heads, as well as the RO ones. There are some guy-design ones, too, from sinklinks.com that are a soap dish/sponge tray, or a Dixie cup dispenser.

If you prefer to go high loop, you can put a plug in the hole. They do make plugs for that purpose. :)

It should definitely be in the corner. My sink came with an option of five holes across or one in the middle for the faucet and one in the corner for the airgap. :)

NOTES:

remember this when it comes time for our sink.
clipped on: 05.23.2014 at 08:34 pm    last updated on: 05.23.2014 at 08:35 pm

RE: Are air gaps necessary on a dishwasher? How do you avoid it? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: athomesewing on 04.18.2011 at 09:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

If all else fails, there are air gaps which are built within the soap dispenser. Westbrass makes some. Likely other companies as well.

Here is a link that might be useful: Westbrass

NOTES:

check this out.
clipped on: 05.23.2014 at 08:31 pm    last updated on: 05.23.2014 at 08:31 pm

RE: "Value" of sub zero (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: rococogurl on 05.21.2014 at 01:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

Having redone a kitchen for resale I can tell you that there is no way to tell what will help sell a home and what will not.

What does help is having tastes that align and a big help is having a house that's done enough so the new buyer doesn't have much to alter.

That said, I rarely see a kitchen I would love to own. I've got over 300 kitchen photos on my blog and I can count the ones I would actually want on the fingers of one hand -- and still have fingers left over.

I will say this. There is a big difference I found in having a refrigerator with one compressor and a refrigerator with separate compressors for the fridge and the freezer. We had two places for a while and one of each. The food stayed fresher longer in the Liebherr with 2 compressors. And the freezer was fabulous because it's own compressor kept the temperature stable -- no air was drawn from it to help cool the fridge.

I'm no spendthrift, believe me. But I learned from 2 renos that my largest regrets were not over what I did do, but what I didn't do (because I was being frugal).

If you want the SZ go for it. You'll enjoy it and it will be some sort of selling point. My kitchen is 10 but if we put the house on the market tomorrow I still have Viking and Miele appliances and a sink faucet that no one could afford to purchase as it's tripled in value. If only the house would triple LOL!

NOTES:

Advice about regrets of what did not do because of being frugal.
clipped on: 05.22.2014 at 01:04 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2014 at 01:05 pm

RE: Undermount sinks: flush or reveal? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: oldryder on 05.14.2014 at 10:29 am in Kitchens Forum

I am a fabricator.

Our standard is what would be referred to as flush mount (actually 1/116" overhang). We think this style is better for the following reasons:

1. the reveal on the sink is another surface to clean.
2. the sink flange exposed with a reveal gets beat up over time.
3. the reveal exposes the caulk joint between the countertop and the sink. Over time the caulk can crack and yellow.

Many fabricators do a reveal because that is the cutout size supplied by the sink OEM and the fabricator lacks the expertise or willingness to change the cutout to flush.

The typical sink cutout from an OEM has a reveal because in some municipalities the health code requires that all surfaces in the food prep area be exposed. An overhang, even a very small one, could be grounds for a health inspector to reject a countertop. The sink OEM's cover their behinds by having a reveal on all their cutout specs.

Regarding chipping; the edge profile at the sink cutout is much more important the size of the cutout. A 3/8" top radius on the sink cutout will be substantially more difficult to chip than a sharp radius on quartz and most stones.

NOTES:

info to pay attention to!
clipped on: 05.15.2014 at 12:28 pm    last updated on: 05.15.2014 at 12:29 pm

Other Things... (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: buehl on 11.30.2011 at 12:31 am in Kitchens Forum

Other things to consider...

  • If you must have filler, consider filler pullouts. Rev-A-Shelf, for example, has 3"/6"/9" base filler pullouts and 3"/6" upper filler pullouts.
  • Consider deeper upper cabinets. Even an extra 1" can make a difference. Keep in mind that cabinets are measured based on overall measurements, that means the exterior measurements, not interior space.

    So, a 12" deep cabinet is really 12" on the outside. Once you factor in the thickness of the back wall, you now have only 11.25" to 11.5" interior depth. If you have framed, the interior depth is reduced again by the thickness of the frame.

    However, if you have overlay, you only lose depth due to the frame along the walls, the rest of the cabinet can use the frame space b/c the door sits in front of the cabinet.

    If you have inset cabinets, OTOH, you lose that space b/c the doors & drawer fronts sit inside the face frame, so those 12" deep cabinets are now down to 10.5" to 11" deep (depending on the thickness of your back wall & frame).

    So, a 12" diameter plate will not fit in a 12" deep upper cabinet. If you add an inch to the cabinet depth (13" deep), you now have that 1/2" to 3/4" back. 15" deep uppers are even better.

  • If you have the space, consider deeper counters either with deeper base cabinets or by pulling the cabinets out from the wall a few inches.
  • Staggered-height cabinets are personal preference, even with 8' ceilings. If you like them, get them.

    One thing to keep in mind, however, is that dust does accumulate on the tops of cabinets that are not to-the-ceiling. One way to make cleaning easier - line the tops with newspaper. When it's time to clean, just remove the newspaper with the dust that collected on top of it (and not on the cabinets themselves) and replace it with clean newspaper.

    If dust allergies or asthma are a concern, I recommend all cabs to the ceiling.

  • Double-bin trash pullouts...love them!!! Dogs cannot open them! (Our dogs learned how to open the step-on ones in our old kitchen!) With two bins, one can be used for recyclables and the other for trash.

    However, put it in the Prep Zone...and, if possible, near the Cooking and Cleanup Zones. If you only have one sink, your Prep Zone will end up on the side of the sink closer to either the range/cooktop or refrigerator. So, put the trash pullout on that side. Put the DW on the other side...it will also keep the DW out of the Prep Zone (and the DW will not be an obstacle to work around while prepping.)

    Oh, and consider getting a foot pedal so you can open it hands-free.

  • Keep in mind aisle widths should be measured counter edge-to-counter edge, not cabinet-to-cabinet.
  • Strive for adequate aisle space, seating overhang, etc.
  • Measure your space 3 or 4 times (or 5 or 6 or 7 or....)!!
  • Measure from at least 3 different points vertically when measuring wall/space width...a foot or two off the floor, 4 or 5 feet off the floor, and near the ceiling...walls are not straight in most homes & you need to know your smallest measurements!

    Likewise, measure ceiling height at various points in your kitchen

  • Regarding different ceiling heights, plan for crown molding that's at least 2 pieces - the decorative piece for the top and a "plain" (or "filler") piece b/w the cabinet and the decorative piece. This "filler" piece is then cut to size to accommodate different ceiling heights...leaving the decorative piece the same size throughout the kitchen.
  • Above all...come up with a good functional layout before ordering your cabinets!!!!


Good luck!

NOTES:

Remember this.
clipped on: 04.15.2014 at 09:13 am    last updated on: 04.15.2014 at 09:14 am

RE: Cabinets: Corner & Other- What To Ask For? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: buehl on the other side...using a tray cabinet divider and storing the cutting boards the long way front-to-back...this way, you only need to grasp the front of the cutting board to retrieve it and, meanwhile, the angled cavernous space is utilized by the other end of the cutting boards (ditto for pizza stones) in Kitchens Forum

Some Corner Storage Options...both upper & base

Lazy Susan

  • Pole in the middle
  • Can be a full circle or pie cut
  • Can have door attached to pie cut so it rotates in when the cabinet is opened (so no banging adjacent cabinets w/the cabinet doors)
  • Most today have a wall that follows the contour of the shelves so closely that nothing can fall off (except maybe a hair...)
  • Pole does limit the size of items that can be stored
  • I had a lazy susan in my old kitchen and it held all my pots & pans, colanders, and a few serving pieces - the pole was not a problem for me. However, if you store small appliances in the susan, then I think the pole might get in the way.
  • My mom has one in an upper corner...I don't like it. I think it wastes too much space...but it's a diagonal cabinet, so it's a little better than a diagonal easy reach

Super Susan

  • No pole in the middle - the rotating shelf sits on a stationary shelf (sometimes, the stationary shelf is adjustable, sometimes not)
  • Can be a full circle or pie cut
  • Cannot have door attached to pie cut b/c only the rotating shelf moves, not the stationary :-); this means the door can bang into adjacent cabinets
  • I have not seen one with the close walls, so things could fall off the rotating shelf and onto the stationary shelf...however, there may be ones with the tight wall out there...
  • Lack of pole allows storage of large items on the entire shelf (like small appliances)

Blind corner

  • Back 24" x 24" space is blind and not easily accessed (12" x 12" of upper cabinet with 12" deep upper cabinets)
  • Can put in a pullout, but if anything falls off, you have to crawl inside to retrieve it before you can close the pullout and then the cabinet
  • Depending on how installed, the door could either (1) bang into adjacent cabinets or (2) open on opposite side of corner and limit access to the opening (unless you have hinges that open close to 180 degrees)
  • The best installation I've seen is with roll out tray shelves that pullout from inside the blind corner - nothing can fall off b/c the shelves take up the full depth of the cabinets. However, that means only things that can be easily removed can be stored in front of the roll out tray shelves.

Easy Reach

  • Stationary but adjustable shelves
  • Two kinds:
    • Pie-cut with doors on each side of the corner...see the thread Angie linked for an example in an upper cabinet
    • Diagonal opening with not very accessible storage in the back side corners

Corner Drawers

  • Drawers installed to, hopefully, the full depth of the cabinet with either straight (on a diagonal) or pie cut drawer fronts.
  • See the thread linked below for more info

Cabinet turned 90 degrees

  • IF corner is a peninsula that opens on the outside of the kitchen, then the best use of space is to take a 27" to 30" cabinet and turn it 90 degrees so it faces out
  • This gives you full use of the corner with little loss of space
  • I did this in one of my two corners...the outward-facing cabinet holds dog food, treats, meds, leashes, etc. (our "pet center")

Sink Base

  • If you have a prep sink, consider a corner sink base.
  • I did this in the other corner...it has plenty of space for plumbing + I store cutting boards on one side and pizza stones on
    the other side...using a tray cabinet divider and storing the cutting boards the long way front-to-back...this way, you only need to grasp the front of the cutting board to retrieve it and, meanwhile, the angled cavernous space is utilized by the other end of the cutting boards (ditto for pizza stones)


My personal preferences?

For base cabinets:

  1. Cabinet turned 90 degrees OR Corner Sink Base
  2. Corner Susan OR Corner Drawers - depending on what is to be stored in the corner
  3. Easy Reach
  4. A distant last place - Blind Corner

For upper cabinets:

  1. Pie cut easy reach
  2. Corner Susan with diagonal doors
  3. A distant last place - Blind Corner

    Here is a link that might be useful: Thread: Corner susan or diagonal drawers?

    NOTES:

    Corner solutions.
    clipped on: 04.15.2014 at 09:12 am    last updated on: 04.15.2014 at 09:13 am

    RE: Do I Understand Correctly-w/ 8' ceilings Can't Have Stacked C (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: live_wire_oak on 04.11.2014 at 09:45 am in Kitchens Forum

    You can do it, but you don't want to use 30" cabinets for the lowers. You want to use 27" cabinets, with 12" on top (no mullioned glass, as it's too small for that) or 24" with 15"'s on top, but neither are ideal proportions. That leaves you 3" for crown. The latter is a bit top heavy, but it does give you enough room for mullioned glass. It's all about the appropriate scale, and 30's with 12's is a bit off in scale, plus it leaves no room for crown. The ideal proportions are 2/3 and 1/3 to 3/4 to 1/4. Thirds is better, but you can't always achieve that.

    NOTES:

    Info on proportions of stacked cabs in order to look fine.
    clipped on: 04.11.2014 at 11:36 am    last updated on: 04.11.2014 at 11:37 am

    RE: Cabinets made in the USA? (Follow-Up #17)

    posted by: skabootch on 03.07.2011 at 08:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

    If you are in the Mid-west, be sure to look at Custom Wood Products in St. Mary's Kansas. Quality is excellent

    NOTES:

    Check into this.
    clipped on: 04.02.2014 at 09:19 am    last updated on: 04.02.2014 at 09:19 am

    RE: Kitchen design feedback (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: buehl on 03.29.2014 at 05:37 am in Kitchens Forum

    NOTES:

    Most important info.
    clipped on: 03.29.2014 at 05:57 am    last updated on: 03.29.2014 at 05:58 am

    RE: Barkeepers Friend - I don't understand the love (Follow-Up #24)

    posted by: Mgoblue85 on 03.22.2014 at 09:30 am in Kitchens Forum

    Linelle - if you want a super good cleaner for your shower door or mirrors or windows here is a concoction I found here on GW and it works fabulously!

    1/4 C white vinegar
    1/4 C rubbing alcohol
    1 T corn starch
    2C warm water

    Use with newspaper, coffee filters or other lint free cloth. You can probably find the original thread for all the testimonials but it works and it's cheap to make.

    NOTES:

    A definite keeper!
    clipped on: 03.25.2014 at 09:29 am    last updated on: 03.25.2014 at 09:30 am

    RE: What Makes A Midsize/Midprice Kitchen Distintive? (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: lavender_lass on 03.24.2014 at 01:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Thank you for sharing your kitchen memory! I love those kind of kitchens...charming, rather than showy. I think you answered your own question in a way...restraint.

    Finding a theme that makes you smile is easy, but applying it with a light hand is sometimes more difficult. Remember that this is a space to live in...and often only a few people are there on a daily basis. Make sure it's a space YOU want to be in, whether it's a sunny breakfast, cloudy day and serving lunch...or maybe sipping a cup of tea and watching it snow. Not So Big Spaces are very popular for this very reason.

    I wish you had a picture of that kitchen! It sounds lovely...and charming :)

    NOTES:

    Exactly what I would love in my kitchen but did not know how to say it!
    clipped on: 03.24.2014 at 04:33 pm    last updated on: 03.24.2014 at 04:34 pm

    RE: Vent Hood Size Over Induction Range vs. Gas Range (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: live_wire_oak on 03.13.2014 at 12:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

    It's a universal recommendation that the hood be at least 6" wider than the surface it covers. And as deep as you can manage. It has nothing to do with the fuel used to heat the food. It has to do with the fact that smoke, steam, smells, and aerosolized grease particles rise upwards and outwards. That's physics. A smaller hood can't capture all of those yucks. Stronger fans can't compensate for a lack of capture area either. It's more important to have a good capture area than a strong fan.

    NOTES:

    Important advice on hood vent regardless of type of cooktop/range.
    clipped on: 03.13.2014 at 11:17 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2014 at 11:18 pm

    RECIPE: Cherry Kuchen Bars

    posted by: stacey_mb on 11.20.2013 at 11:29 pm in Recipe Exchange Forum

    Cherry Kuchen Bars

    1/2 cup butter, softened
    1/2 cup shortening
    1 3/4 cup sugar
    1 1/2 tsp. baking powder
    1/2 tsp. salt
    3 eggs
    1 tsp. vanilla
    3 cups all-purpose flour
    1 21-ounce can cherry pie filling
    1 recipe powdered sugar icing

    Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large mixing bowl, beat butter and shortening with an electric mixer on medium speed for 30 seconds. Add sugar, baking powder, and salt. Beat until combined, scraping sides of bowl occasionally. Beat in eggs and vanilla until combined. Beat in as much of the flour as you can with the mixer. Using a wooden spoon, stir in any remaining flour. Reserve 1 1/2 cups of the dough. Spread remaining dough in the bottom of an ungreased 15x10x1 inch baking pan. Bake for 12 minutes.

    Spread pie filling over crust in pan. Spoon reserved dough into small mounds on top of pie filling. Bake about 30 minutes more or until top is lightly browned. Cool in pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes.

    Drizzle top with Powdered Sugar Icing. Cool completely. Cut into bars to serve. Makes 32 bars.

    Powdered Sugar Icing: In a small bowl, stir together 1 1/2 cups powdered sugar, 1/4 tsp. vanilla or almond extract, and enough milk (3-4 teaspoons) to make a smooth icing of drizzling consistency.

    NOTES:

    Sounds great for small group meeting!
    clipped on: 03.11.2014 at 10:54 pm    last updated on: 03.11.2014 at 10:54 pm

    RE: what are the critical days to be present during a remodel? (Follow-Up #19)

    posted by: romy718 on 03.07.2014 at 11:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Get a tentative remodeling schedule so you know who will be there & what will they be doing. Tell your GC you want to be informed with any schedule changes. Then have a plan for information you need to communicate before scheduled work. I was home most of our remodel but there were a few things I missed because I wasn't well prepared. Many/most days I had no issues I needed to address. I'll go thru our schedule & **days I feel you need to be there
    .
    Demolition: clearly labeled anything you plan to keep & have a space for it to be stored. Have them install dust curtains. We moved all our upholstered furniture & rugs upstairs. We covered everything in nearby rooms with sheets & then plastic. We covered everything in the garage with plastic as they had their saws in the garage. They did saw outside a couple of days. Big mistake. Sawdust all over my window mullions, plants, etc. i would have rather kept it contained in the garage.

    Rough framing: no issues

    Hood ducting:.we were initially not thrilled with where the duct exited our house but this ended up being a non-issue.

    Rough plumbing: no issues but I did make visually verify old copper was replaced with new.

    ***Rough electrical - needed to be there for pendant location, outlet locations, light switch locations. Did not know about low horizontal backsplash outlets or plugmolds & ended up with outlets & light switches in my backsplash. Bummer!

    Drywall, taping, prime new drywall : no issues

    **Floors: tile in laundry room. Was there to make some decisions about tile layout. We had used this tile installer before so I knew grout lines would be good.
    **Wood floors: needed to be there one day to select stain color & finish for sealer (matte, satin or gloss).

    *Cabinet Delivery: everything was boxed but I checked boxes for damage. Not sure being there was necessary.

    *Cabinetry Install- I noticed glass cabinet design was wrong before it was installed. Saved the guys from installing & then uninstalling. It was fun seeing the install but not necessary to be there in my case.

    Scribe countertops: no issues

    Initial Electrical Trim: no issues except my walls were closed. Too late to change outlet locations without additional cost

    **Appliance delivery- no issues for me so not sure if you need to be there.
    My floors were all covered so floor damage was not an issue.

    Appliance install- no issues

    Interior Trim moldings- I had them make a sample of the crown molding so I knew exactly what it was going to look like-no issues

    ***Template Countertops ** take picures** & take pictures of your slabs when you initially choose them. If you are having a special edge, have them make you a sample so there are no surprises. Find out what kind of sealer will be used.

    ***Install Countertops - had to have them come back & redo a seam & remove "smudges" caused by sealer. Watch them seal your stone for a learning experience.

    ***Trim plumbing - be there anytime there is a hole going in your countertop (faucet placement).

    ***Install Backsplash- my tile guy made me 4 sample boards of different grout colors. Make sure they use silicone caulk rather than grout where tile meets the countertop. Some grout has instructions to wait a few days before sealing.
    That's all I can think of.

    NOTES:

    Excellent advice from someone who has been through it.
    clipped on: 03.08.2014 at 09:57 am    last updated on: 03.08.2014 at 09:57 am

    RE: Are Semi-Pro Style Faucets Over? (Follow-Up #25)

    posted by: kksmama on 03.07.2014 at 03:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Dh and I took quite a long time to compromise on the Blanco Culina for the cleanup sink. Love it! The Grohe Concetta is at the prep sink, I like it very much (especially with the tapmaster) but do think it splashes more because it lacks an aerator.

     photo IMG_1469_zps997399cb.jpg

    NOTES:

    Love the end cabinet lighted!
    clipped on: 03.07.2014 at 10:40 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2014 at 10:40 pm

    RE: Is your crackle subway backsplash hard to keep clean? (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: juliet11 on 03.06.2014 at 07:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I also have had a crackle tile backsplash for almost 2 years with no problems. The installer sealed it when he installed it, but I haven't sealed it since then. I actually haven't gotten much on my backsplash, but the occasional tomato sauce splatter has washed off fine. My tile is Grazia Rixi and I really like it.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Grazia Rixi

    NOTES:

    Really lovely tile for backsplash!
    clipped on: 03.06.2014 at 10:00 pm    last updated on: 03.06.2014 at 10:01 pm

    Pros & Cons to Super and Lazy Susans (Follow-Up #7)

    posted by: buehl on 04.06.2012 at 06:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

    A "lazy" susan is the one with a center pole. A "super" susan is the one with no center pole and with "turntable" type shelves mounted on stationary shelves. There are pros & cons to both.


    Pro(s) to both:

    • It's very easy to access whatever is stored in it...everything is in front. All you have to do is rotate the shelves and what you want is right in front of you!
    • If something does fall off (in the cabinets w/out a curved wall, more on that later), it's much easier to get to the item than if you have a blind corner cabinet and something falls off. With a blind corner, you have to reach (if you have very long arms) or crawl into a cabinet that's deep inside a "blind" area. [This reason plus the fact that many of the blind-corner hardware/inserts meant to give you some usable storage do not last is one of the reasons my KD discourages blind corners of any kind.]

      Granted, you will have to take things off at least one of the shelves with a susan, but you won't be trying to blindly reach deep inside a cabinet that's "recessed" into another one.

    Note: The pie-cut type cabinet (90-degree angle instead of diagonal front) gives you better access to contents than a diagonal opening. It also gives you more useful floorspace and counter frontage, less of a "closed in" feeling (particularly in small-to-medium size kitchens), and less inaccessible deep corner space.


    Pro(s) to a lazy susan:

    • Biggest pro, IMHO, is that the walls of cabinets designed specifically for lazy susans follow the contour of the round (or pie-cut) shelves so closely that I'm not sure even a grain of rice could fall off the shelves.
    • Another big pro, again IMHO, is that if you have the pie-cut type, the doors can be attached to the shelves and rotate into the cabinet when you open it. No doors banging the adjoining cabinets...something that can be an issue, especially the doors that are two pieces attached with a piano hinge with the doors flopping about.


    Pro(s) to a super susan:

    • No center pole in the middle to limit the size of items you can store on a shelf.
    • No center pole to block access to items.


    Con(s) to a lazy susan:

    • Has a center pole in the middle that limits the size of items you can store on a shelf.
    • The center pole could block access to items. However, all you have to do is rotate the shelf and no more "blocking"!


    Con(s) to a super susan:

    • Walls are usually not (never?) curved to follow the contour of the round shelves. This is the biggest con, IMHO.
    • Doors cannot be attached to the rotating shelves so the doors must be opened b/f accessing contents, You also have to be careful the doors do not bang into adjoining cabinet(s).


    Most corner cabinet units/hardware, BTW, cannot easily be retro-fitted after the cabinets and countertop have been installed.

    NOTES:

    Great comparison.
    clipped on: 03.04.2014 at 04:22 pm    last updated on: 03.04.2014 at 04:23 pm

    RE: Tips on surviving a gut remodel? (Follow-Up #13)

    posted by: smiling on 03.04.2014 at 07:35 am in Kitchens Forum

    I suggest you use every stress reliever you can, right from the start. Go ahead and buy Costco sized packages of paper plates and bowls, plastic cutlery, napkins, bowls, and flats of water. Every dish and utensil you don't have to wash is less stress, and all the little reliefs add up.

    It was also more helpful than I first thought to plan ahead to just take a whole day off from the project, get away from the house when the contractors are not there, and do what best helps you relax. The break helps clear your mind of the endless details, and it feels like life is more normal for a while.

    Another suggestion I haven't seen above is to buy some boxes of those thin nitrile exam gloves (they come in boxes of 200). You will be handling so much material every day, and washing your hands far more than usual, and the gloves are really helpful protecting your hands from little scrapes and cuts. Use them with abandon, throw them away, and it's OK for a few weeks. So easy to grab a paintbrush for touchups, screwdrivers, dirty cartons, etc, when you have your gloves on. I left a box of them right in the work zone and used them all the time!

    One more strategy I used was to order a second meal for take-away when we went to restaurants. One meal eaten there, and another to take home with us. It helped a lot to have fewer "what's for dinner?" decisions every day, and reheating was easier than another drive to another restaurant.

    Good luck with your reno, it will be SO worth it, and much of the loud and dirty demo is behind you.

    NOTES:

    Practical advise to heed!
    clipped on: 03.04.2014 at 08:53 am    last updated on: 03.04.2014 at 08:53 am

    RE: outlet covers and backsplash (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: romy718 on 02.24.2014 at 02:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Go to a Lutron dealer with samples of your tile. They have multiple shades of beigey colors, some with a stone appearance. You can also get a custom color. You can get electrical outlets, switches, dimmers & covers in one color.

    NOTES:

    Info on backsplash outlets.
    clipped on: 02.24.2014 at 02:56 pm    last updated on: 02.24.2014 at 02:56 pm

    RE: KAW....3 minutes on a side (Follow-Up #26)

    posted by: NashvilleBuild42 on 02.17.2014 at 12:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

    My sister in law is a vegan. So no dairy and she watches the family's salt intake. Anyway she makes an awesome salt free low fat side dish of mashed sweet potatoes. It's delicious. I think she said she found it in the cookbook, "appetite for reduction" by Isa chandra

    1 pound apples, peeled, cut into 1/2 inch chunks (2 average sized)
    2 pounds sweet potatoes or yams, peeled, cut into 1/2 inch chunks
    1/4 cup water
    1 tablespoon agave (optional, see note)
    1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
    1/2 teaspoon fresh grated ginger, see note

    Cooking spray

    Preheat a 4 quart pot over low heat. Spray with cooking spray, then add apples, sweet potatoes, water and salt. Cover pot and sweat the apples and sweet potatoes for about 20 minutes, stirring often. What this means, is just to cook them slowly and let them steam. You want to coax the misture out of them, but if you make the flame too high they’ll burn and cook unevenly.

    After 20 minutes, you can turn the heat up just a bit. Add a little more water if needed. Cover and cook 20 more minutes, paying close attention so that they don’t burn, and stirring often. When they’re very tender, they’re done. Mash with a potato masher. Add cinnamon and ginger, and mash some more. Taste you may want to add a dash more of cinnamon or a splash of agave syrup.

    It goes great with so many things. It's always a crowd pleaser and with no added sugar (I never add agave) , no dairy, and no added salt it's usually safe for any dietary concerns .

    NOTES:

    YUM!
    clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 12:51 pm    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 12:51 pm

    RE: KAW....3 minutes on a side (Follow-Up #15)

    posted by: NashvilleBuild42 on 02.16.2014 at 06:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

    The pancakes look amazing! Thanks for sharing the recipe.

    Tea- have you tried the salt free spice blends from the spicehouse? My mother started buying these years ago and even in my new home we drastically limit salt. These blends are a great addition to soups or potatoes or pastas or veggies or really anything. I love them.

    Here is a link that might be useful: A list of salt free blends

    NOTES:

    Link to bookmark.
    clipped on: 02.16.2014 at 06:30 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2014 at 06:30 pm

    RE: KAW....3 minutes on a side (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: trailrunner on 02.16.2014 at 12:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Thank you Holly ! Thank you leela...I am very lucky !

    Hey andrea...not stupid at all! I am linking below to a good article. It is a particular culture strain that is really more tart. We get Dairy Fresh brand. I wish it didn't have other thickeners in it but it is delicious ! It is best because it is REALLY thick. It you notice how the batter sits up on the griddle. It is quite thick but they come out very light. Here is the recipe. Don't thin the batter....really barely stir it and leave lumps....

    Whisk together 2 c AP flour, 3 tsp fresh baking powder ( makes a huge difference..check your dates) 1 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp baking soda ( check date on this too...keep sealed well..believe it or not it does expire and lose potency) Beat 2 large eggs and 2 c. Bulgarian Buttermilk and a scant 1/4 c peanut or other no flavor oil together. Add to dry and barely mix...fold in blueberries very gently. Have griddle oiled and on hottest setting ...cook 3 min approx on a side till golden. Your griddle may vary. ENJOY!

    Here is a link that might be useful: cultured buttermilk..bulgarian

    NOTES:

    Recipe to die for!
    clipped on: 02.16.2014 at 04:28 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2014 at 04:29 pm

    RE: where's your microwave--pix requested (Follow-Up #12)

    posted by: jtsgranite4us on 10.12.2008 at 08:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Ours is in the cabinet for our built-in refridgerator.

    microwave with pullout shelf

    Our toaster oven is in the other side:

    Built-in Refridgerator

    NOTES:

    Pull out board under each appliance flanking the frig. Beautiful kitchen!
    clipped on: 02.11.2014 at 08:54 am    last updated on: 02.11.2014 at 08:55 am

    RE: Rebuilding after Tornado- Feedback on Kitchen Plan? (Follow-Up #10)

    posted by: sena01 on 02.11.2014 at 03:36 am in Kitchens Forum

    I'm sorry that you lost your home in the tornado.

    What are the dimensions of the island? Here you can find valuable info re island seating, aisles, etc. So, since NKBA recommends 24" wide15" deep overhang for each seater at counter height, if the island can be 87" wide, 3 can sit on the long side and 1 on the short. Seems like you'd have traffic behind the seaters, for that NKBA recommended aisle is 65" from the edge of the counter to the pantry.

    Can you swap the range and sink? That way long side of the island will be across the range, and 2 can prep at the same time. You may also consider adding another sink on the island. On the other wall, It can be the fridge, DW, and the sink.

    In addition to debrak"s suggestions, MW can go to the pantry cab next to the fridge with a rollout shelf under it for landing. This is itsgraniteforus"s arrangment in this post.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 02.11.2014 at 08:52 am    last updated on: 02.11.2014 at 08:52 am

    RE: Measure your stuff and get cabinets that accommodate? (Follow-Up #9)

    posted by: jakuvall on 02.04.2014 at 03:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

    ardcp- it is precisely for small kitchens that I say that.
    small kitchen- frameless makes a difference then-

    I use a 30 or 33" 3 drawer base (prefer full subtop) with full height sides to the drawers and 4.25" dividers running front to back- either adjustable or I work out the spacing- 3 per drawer- nothing gets stacked- fry pans and lids are tilted against dividers, small sauce pans are set on their sides two per space. middle space is mixed stuff- top drawer had a divider one side of the drawer fits a sauteuse and a 12-1/2" fry pan, steam basket and splash screens- other side is utensils
    Have recently started to have the back of the drawer box scooped to allow a little extra clearance for handles.
    (my 30-only thing stacked are colanders and one lid is on the pasta set-
    has top drawer as described, middle has 11.5 fry, 2qt saucier, 1.5, 2.5, 3, 4 qt, 8qt pasta with steamer insert, lids for all, 3 colanders (only thing that nests) bottom has crepe, non stick fry, two cast iron, 6 qt, 8 qt with the pasta insert from above, lids, spider and one or two other things)

    -15" or wider full pullout for spices and oils,
    -21 or 24" wide- single door- one shelf, one rollout, 5 or 6 tray dividers on the bottom (it is not possible to get more stuff into any cabinet and have it all accessible than this configuration) suits fry pans, roasting, sheets, yaydaydyady

    -over oven or fridge- deep cab with trays
    -Small appliances and awkward sizes go in - corner cabinet (my preference) either a Suzi q or a hafele lemans depending on weather a blind or a susan makes for better use of other cabinets.
    -pull out trash (in a pinch under sink but careful detailing needed)
    -Alternate for appliances is cabinet with ROS (sometimes can manage 3) or two drawers and a roll out below-
    a 4 (15") drawer base for foils, wraps, baggies, tea, chips, bread,
    The rest depends on space - first choice is a shallow depth pantry flanking the fridge opening on it's side....else pullout pantry on side of fridge (minimum 15" max 21)

    ...anyone can cook with what fits in all that or they should go to the diner :)
    Have posted pics of most of these at times in the past.

    NOTES:

    Great info.
    clipped on: 02.04.2014 at 05:00 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2014 at 05:00 pm

    RE: Sealer for leathered granite countertop (Follow-Up #6)

    posted by: srosen on 01.12.2014 at 03:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I think the stone should be tested prior to applying sealer.
    The water test should be at least 15 minutes before wiping off the excess.
    Some stones are just to dense to be technically sealed.
    Porous stones need to be correctly sealed.
    A customer should know which type they have.
    We have many customers that have long term granite installs that have never stained and have never been sealed.
    If a stone is porous and needs to be sealed the ammonia in the Windex will degrade the sealer much faster than neutral ph no rinse cleaners.
    Soap over time will leaves residues that attract soils.
    Sorry I just don't think there is a cookie cutter approach to this. Each stone should should be properly treated for its characteristics.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 01.13.2014 at 04:58 pm    last updated on: 01.13.2014 at 04:59 pm

    RE: Sealer for leathered granite countertop (Follow-Up #4)

    posted by: srosen on 01.12.2014 at 02:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Sealing is a very confusing topic-the sealer companies and human nature makes it that way.
    The question of sealing if it hasn't been addressed by your stone pro get informed about what you are buying and what role sealing will play.
    Simply stated every stone will have its own characteristics regarding porosity and mineral composition.
    There are several simple tests that you can do so that you are informed.
    A water test will tell you just how porous or not your stone is. A lemon test will tell you about porosity and also acid sensitivity.
    The glass test will tell you if you are dealing with a true quartzite or not.
    Taking a sample home to work with and test is key.
    When dealing with the confusing nature of stone or any natural product you must be an "educated consumer" .
    You can be mislead by the most sincerest experts that have been misinformed regarding stone.
    Regarding sealers most main stream sealers are fine to use-Its all about the application. How many applications will you need for a porous stone?
    How often should I be sealing or not?
    Why am I sealing a stone that exhibits no porosity when tested?
    All the answers can be found online or on the forum.
    Getting back to the original questions-sealing every year is overkill. A sealer should last anywhere from 3 years and on.
    You must use neutral ph cleaners that wont degrade the sealer. Doing this will extend the life of the sealer.
    As far as the Macubus do the porosity test and see what you get.
    Your leathered antique brown isn't very porous but the fabricator may use a color enhancing sealer on the surface to bring out the depth of color. This product on that stone will sit on the surface and will have to be maintained over the course of its life.

    NOTES:

    Pertinent info to remember.
    clipped on: 01.13.2014 at 04:57 pm    last updated on: 01.13.2014 at 04:57 pm

    Seam Help - What is a "good seam"

    posted by: oldryder on 12.24.2013 at 06:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I am a fabricator ... and pretty fussy.

    " I think many of the posts here are stressing that a lot of problems could be solved by better communication before the materials are chosen or cut"

    The discussion on the "Cambria - Seam Help thread" led me to believe the following could be helpful.

    A "perfect" seam is one that is is invisible. In practice "invisible" is unattainable.

    A very well done seam is one that has to be looked for to notice it is there. Given the technology available to fabricators and installers a well done seam is attainable a large majority of the time.

    The following situations can create a seam that is somewhat more noticable while IMHO still be very acceptable.

    It should be a given that the seam is very very tight (the thickness of a razor blade or less) and that the underside of the seamed pieces are flush at the joint. The color of the adhesive at the seam should be close to the stone. In highly varied stone the color is a compromise since its impossible to vary the adhesive color with the varying stone. What looks best is somewhat subjective and sometimes the color match selected by the installer is too light or dark for the homeowner. fortunately this can be changed if necessary,

    1. A slight step (maybe a 1/16") can occur at the middle or back of a seam where the top of the 2 pieces isn't perfectly flush. This can happen when mating 2 pieces of stone because natural stone and quartz isn't perfectly flat. (perfectly flat stone is sold as "surface plates" for machinists and is very expensive.) Very large seams in islands can be very difficult to get perfectly flush. It is possible to repolish the whole island after glue-ing the pieces together but the resulting piece is probably too large to handle and install.

    If you have a piece with a slight rise or dip on either side of the seam this can make it impossible to get the desired perfectly flush surface at the joint. Installers with the proper tools can minimize the step and when it can't be completely eliminated will normally set the pieces to the step is to the rear of the top.

    Some fabricators will grind the top of an irregular seam but it my experience this leaves an area that has clearly been worked if viewed from the correct angle or in certain lighting. (I might be wrong. Some stone experts will assert that the top can be ground and refinished to a perfect polish. So far I havent seen anyone that can do it consistently and I have been looking for it. I go to a annual trade show in one month and will be looking for it again.)

    2. Grain transition is the other bugaboo. There are a lot of options to minimize the grain transitions. Some cost more because they require additional material. A competent fabricator works this issue with the customer BEFORE any stone is cut. Best is to involve the customer in the layout of the parts so they are bought into the final product BEFORE any stone is cut. This approach takes considerably more time after the sale but before fabrication and many fabricators don't do it for that reason.

    NOTES:

    Excellent info!
    clipped on: 12.26.2013 at 07:53 pm    last updated on: 12.26.2013 at 07:54 pm

    RE: Christmas breakfast menu (Follow-Up #12)

    posted by: sum5463 on 12.16.2013 at 11:16 am in Kitchens Forum

    Suzannesl, sorry for the delay on the recipes--yesterday was one of those busy days. :) Here you are:

    Christmas Breakfast Casserole

    Spray a 9 x 13 casserole dish or pan with cooking spray and then layer in order:

    2 1/2 cups cheddar croutons (5 to 6 oz box/bag; can use other flavors)
    2 cups grated cheese (cheddar, Monterey jack, etc)
    1 lb. cooked sausage (sliced links or crumbled; maple sausage is great, turkey sausage works well too)

    Mix together and pour over sausage and cheese:

    8 eggs
    1 can cream of mushroom soup
    3 cups milk
    1 to 2 Tbs. sherry or white wine (optional, but wonderful flavor)
    3/4 tsp. dry mustard
    pinch of salt, pepper to taste
    couple shakes of paprika

    Cover and refrigerate overnight. In the morning heat the oven to 325° and bake for 1 hour, uncovered. Left-overs will freeze nicely if wrapped tightly.

    Baked French Toast

    1 cup packed brown sugar
    1/2 cup butter
    2 Tbs. corn syrup (light or dark--can use maple syrup instead if you'd like)
    1 loaf French bread/baguette, cut into 3/4 inch slices
    5 eggs
    1 1/2 cups milk
    1 tsp. vanilla
    cinnamon

    Count on 2 slices per person, plus a few more for hearty eaters. In medium saucepan over med-low heat, mix and melt brown sugar, butter and corn syrup. Meanwhile, spray a 9 x 13 baking dish with nonstick vegetable oil. Pour the butter and sugar mixture into the bottom of the dish. In a blender mix eggs, milk and vanilla. [You can also just whisk it together.] Arrange pieces of bread in baking dish. Pour egg mixture over bread slices, not missing any areas and using all the mixture. The excess will be absorbed by the bread (or will cook up sort of soufflé-like). Sprinkle lightly with cinnamon. Cover the baking dish and refrigerate over night.

    Next morning preheat oven to 350°. Bake uncovered for 30 minutes and serve directly from dish. Enjoy!

    From Secrets of Entertaining from America’s Best Innkeepers.

    I started baking at 325 for the eggs, then upped it to 350 when I put the French Toast in. Worked just fine.

    NOTES:

    YUM!
    clipped on: 12.18.2013 at 11:56 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2013 at 11:56 pm

    RE: Help�.first look at granite shop and I am so confused!! (Follow-Up #18)

    posted by: oldryder on 12.17.2013 at 08:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I am a fabricator.

    You are doing the right thing by taking the time to find what you really like. For what its worth Typhoon Bordeaux is one of my stock colors and makes for a beautiful kitchen without being too busy.

    The only watch out is that the fabricator, if he's good, will involve you in the layout of the parts on the slabs to insure BEFOREHAND that you will find the grain transitions at the seams acceptable.

    another word of advice; don't allow yourself to be overwhelmed by the choices and fuss over miniscule preferences of one over another. The reality is that any material, even quartz, is going to look at least a little different than what you expect once its in your kitchen. consequently, agonizing over two or more nice choices is probably wasted energy since any one is probably going to be beautiful.

    NOTES:

    Good advice on picking granite!
    clipped on: 12.17.2013 at 11:15 pm    last updated on: 12.17.2013 at 11:16 pm

    RE: do you like you kitchen pantry cabinet? (Follow-Up #3)

    posted by: olivertwist on 12.16.2013 at 12:35 am in Kitchens Forum

    Love ours, but the tippy top section (without the pull-outs) is a bit of a wasteland and because there is no counter there, I can't climb up to access it. But I would never want to bring an upper down to the cabinet because the LAST thing I would've wanted to do would have been to lose counter space!

    NOTES:

    Very clever! Good storage.
    clipped on: 12.16.2013 at 11:27 pm    last updated on: 12.16.2013 at 11:35 pm

    RE: Toe kick drawers - worth it or a waste? (Follow-Up #7)

    posted by: loves2cook4six on 02.12.2011 at 03:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I have them as well and love them too However, my cabinets were custom built and the toe kick area of the cabinets was incorporated into the bottom drawers making them deeper.

    This is my can storage

    Can Storage

    and this is how they look from the side:

    Photobucket

    Excuse the dust, these were taken during construction. These open by just hooking your toe under the trim and pulling. You can push them shut with your foot as well.

    NOTES:

    great idea and terrific pic.
    clipped on: 11.26.2013 at 08:59 am    last updated on: 11.26.2013 at 08:59 am

    RE: Walk-in pantry. Why or why not? (Follow-Up #49)

    posted by: buehl on 11.10.2013 at 03:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

    As is probably discussed above, walk-in/step-in/reach-in pantries are less expensive than cabinet pantries, easier to use, much more flexible, and hold far more items of various sizes/types than cabinets. They are drywalled in and you can install whatever your favorite shelving is.

    Since you can have various sizes of shelves, you can customize the space to your needs. This customization allows you to have shallower shelves in one place for food, etc. and deeper shelves elsewhere for things like small appliances.

    You don't need a wide aisle for a walk-in pantry nor do you have to have an elaborate setup - but you can have both if you want them.

    A few things to keep in mind:

    • The best shelf depth appears to be around 12" for most food storage - deep enough for 2 or 3 items of the same type but not so deep that things get lost in the depths - a common complaint when shelves are 18" or deeper. With pullout pantry cabinets, yes, you can see the sides, but if the pantry is much wider than 18", then things can easily "hide" in the middle of the pullout shelves. In addition, it's more difficult to see and reach things when they're above your eye level.
    • With walk-in/step-in/reach-in pantries, the shelving is stationary and against a wall (in most cases), so nothing can fall off - off the back or off the sides - like can happen with ROTS (roll-out tray shelves) and pullouts.
    • Often the "gadgets" installed to attempt to make cabinet pantries more user-friendly take up a lot of space and are expensive.
    • Weight can be an issue with cabinets - particularly for those with ROTS, pullouts, and other hardware that allows various types of pulling out (those "gadgets" I mentioned above).
    • Pantry cabinets can be expensive - especially if they have those "gadgets" that swing out and around, etc.


    Which is better? It depends on your preferences as well as your space limitations.


    • With a "reach-in" pantry, you can usually see everything at a glance and it doesn't take up much depth in the space. So, if you have a rather narrow kitchen and nowhere to recess into "behind" the kitchen, this may be the best design. Assuming 12" deep shelves, you probably need somewhere around 15" to 18" of depth to accommodate the shelf plus any door frames, etc. needed.
    • A "step-in" would need a little more depth, but the advantage is that you can add some shelving on the sides or even provide a place to hang a broom or store other utility items.
    • A "walk-in" needs more depth than width - so if you have room 'behind" the kitchen but not much inside the kitchen itself, this would be a great alternative. It lets you go behind the kitchen and spread out behind the cabinets, etc. that are in the kitchen proper. This type of pantry also offers the most flexibility and the most options...it's a room that you can customize to fit your needs.
      • If it's a basic pantry (i.e., no extra workspace, extra working appliances (MW, Refrigerator, Freezer, Oven), then you only need an aisle b/w the sides with shelves of around 33" to 36" (we have 33" in our basement pantry and it's plenty for one person in the pantry at a time).

      • You can make it more than just a pantry by adding counters, appliances, etc. It can become an extension of the kitchen with workspace, etc.

    • With the above pantries, you have various options for doors - swinging doors, regular interior doors, decorative doors like the "Pantry" one above, doors that match your cabinets, "secret" doors, etc. as well as motion-detector lights, etc.


    Pantry Cabinets can be useful if they're configured properly.

    • From what I've seen, I think the best choices are the narrower pullout pantries - the ones that have shelves that are attached to the door and come out when you pull the door open. They allow you to see everything by looking at each side - no, you don't necessarily see it all at one glance, but you can still easily see what's in the cabinet. The narrower width (say, 18" or so) is wide enough to fit almost anything without making the pantry so wide that things can "hide" in the middle out of sight. If you cannot go "behind" the kitchen and you don't have enough space in the kitchen to create a reach-in pantry, then I think a pullout pantry is good alternative.
    • There is another one that I've seen that I like - it's a cabinet that has drawers up to around 36" to 48" off the floor and shallow shelves above. The drawers below are easy to access and b/c you look down into them, nothing can hide from you! In addition, the narrow shelves above give you space for items that may fit better on shelves than in drawers and allow you to see everything in it at a glance. The narrow shelves above would be similar to a "reach-in" pantry.
    • However, in the case of all cabinets, you are limited as to height and do not have floor storage. Walk-in/step-in/reach-in pantries all allow you to use the full height - floor to ceiling - as well as the floor for storage. No toe-kicks to worry about and no limitations based on what's available in your cabinet line or the height of the rest of the cabinets in your kitchen.

    Something to keep in mind when talking to a KD - especially one who is really a cabinet salesperson and works on commission - cabinets are more expensive than drywalled walk-in/step-in/reach-in pantries, so sometimes a KD will steer you to the cabinets b/c s/he will make more money if you buy cabinets. Note that this is not true of all KDs (although some may do it subconsciously), but there are enough of them out there that will, so be aware.


    I've included a link below to the Pantry thread in the Gallery for those who don't know about it.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Thread: Pantry photos/ pics of pantries

    NOTES:

    Excellent help!
    clipped on: 11.11.2013 at 09:59 pm    last updated on: 11.11.2013 at 09:59 pm

    RE: Drawers under sink?? (Follow-Up #12)

    posted by: sudaki on 11.06.2013 at 11:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Our under-sink drawer is one of my favorite parts of our new kitchen. It is nice to have increased storage and eliminate the large hard to access cavern that was under our prior sink. I have been waiting to post pictures of the entire kitchen until the backsplash is up .... but we all know how that goes!!! Here is a preview...

     photo IMG_00063.jpg

    We were able to fit a bottom drawer with a 9" face under the sink because we installed a shallow sink. The garbage disposal and instahot have just enough room.

     photo IMG_00044.jpg
    The drawer isn't full depth to accomodate some of the plumbing connections behind it.

     photo IMG_00053.jpg
    The shelf is sliding and removable in order to make plumbing access possible.

     photo IMG_00075.jpg

    I feel lucky to have such a creative DH for a cabinet builder!!!

    NOTES:

    Would like to use this idea in our kitchen.
    clipped on: 11.07.2013 at 08:06 am    last updated on: 11.07.2013 at 08:07 am

    RE: What would you put here? (Follow-Up #8)

    posted by: nhbaskets on 11.06.2013 at 03:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

    My brother built me this to put on the side on our pantry. Comes in very handy for writing notes.
    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    NOTES:

    Really like this!
    clipped on: 11.06.2013 at 06:09 pm    last updated on: 11.06.2013 at 06:09 pm

    RE: Drawers under sink?? (Follow-Up #9)

    posted by: chicagoans on 11.06.2013 at 04:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

    These under-sink pullouts are from a GW member and I saved the picture because I thought they were so nice. I think the member was sandn? Wish I could remember so I could give her/him kudos.

    NOTES:

    Great idea!
    clipped on: 11.06.2013 at 06:06 pm    last updated on: 11.06.2013 at 06:07 pm

    RE: Rule of thumb for recessed light placement (Follow-Up #7)

    posted by: lzerarc on 11.05.2013 at 07:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

    or how about no recessed lights at all? Recessed lights are mini spot lights and provide directional lighting straight down in a very small throw pattern. it casts shadows and illuminates the tops of your head.
    Throwing out how horribly inefficient cans are for ceilings from an energy loss standpoint (assuming there is attic space above), I have never found them to be good lighting in kitchens for the above reasons. Good lighting should be based around two simple things- tasks at hand and general illumination of the space without shadowing.
    An easy solution to fix all above issues is to not use them at all.
    Indirect lighting will provide general illumination to the space without creating shadows as light is not directed at a specific target (such as your body for example). An easy way to provide indirect lighting in a kitchen is T5 or LED linear fixtures above your cabinets positioned at an angle to project light out into the space to bounce off the ceiling. I use a double T5 fixture above the cabinets typically.
    This creates a large amount of light that can easily light yours and most kitchens.
    Next focus on task lighting to be directed at the tasks...your hands. You do not want your head to be blocking this. Standard island pendants typically work great for this since it directs the light straight down onto the work surface. T5 or LED continuous linear under cabinet lighting works great for other areas with cabinets above.
    The result is a bright, shadowless, illuminated space with plenty of light directly on your task and eliminating the sea of cans in a ceiling.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 11.05.2013 at 09:49 pm    last updated on: 11.05.2013 at 09:49 pm

    RE: Do you have a corner susan cabinet next to range? (Follow-Up #7)

    posted by: kompy on 12.16.2010 at 03:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I have a corner easy reach cabinet w/ mitre cut doors and a piano hinge that is on the INSIDE of the cabinet so you can barely see it. I don't have any issues getting in and out of it. I also have a susan on the other side of the kitchen so opted for staggered shelves...which I LOVE. It fits frying pans perfectly and some taller items too.

    Here is a pic of my almost finished kitchen (can't believe this pic was taken 10 years ago!!!!)....and also a pic of a different kitchen showing the staggered shelves.

    Also beware that 3" pullout spice racks should be installed between two cabinets. The sides are almost non-existent so you need something on either side of it to hold it together. You might have room to put an end panel next to it to secure it.

    How long has your KD been designing? I have not come across a line yet that will allow you to put a 3" spice pullout next to an appliance without extra support of some kind. IF there's some trick-of-the-trade, I'd love to hear it.

    Also, you could do a 33x36 assymetrical susan base with a 3" spice pull out....then an end panel, range and cabinet at the end.


    Photobucket


    Photobucket



    NOTES:

    Pics are great examples of what we could do in our reno.
    clipped on: 10.30.2013 at 08:39 pm    last updated on: 10.30.2013 at 08:40 pm

    RE: Marble alternatives (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: Mur12506851 on 06.24.2013 at 08:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I was in the exact same predicament and did go with granite -- Vermont White Granite. It looks very much like marble but has the durability we all want in the kitchen. Many people who have come to see the new kitchen ask if it's marble.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 10.23.2013 at 11:33 pm    last updated on: 10.23.2013 at 11:34 pm

    RE: Kitchen At Work (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: oldbat2be on 10.20.2013 at 10:56 am in Kitchens Forum

    Thank you for asking, I'd love to pass this on to others. This was a recipe from my best friend's mother, who is Swiss-German... (She also taught me to salt butter on my dark bread :)

    I have been making it off and on all my life.

    NOTES:

    Yummy recipe to try!
    clipped on: 10.21.2013 at 09:54 am    last updated on: 10.21.2013 at 09:54 am

    RE: Peninsula layout with cooktop and seating (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: buehl on 07.13.2010 at 11:24 am in Kitchens Forum

    OK...you're probably not going to like what I have to say and you probably don't want to hear it...but this way you'll be warned and you won't be able to say that no one told you...

    First, if you want a cooktop in a peninsula (or island) with seating then you need one that's 48" deep...not 36". Think about it...if you have steam from boiling water, grease splattering, smoke, etc. wafting across the peninsula...do you really want someone sitting across from it????

    You really need 24" behind the cooktop for a "safety zone" to protect your visitors.

    You also need to be sure to have 24" on the side w/the end of the peninsula.

    Next, how do you plan to vent your cooktop? Speaking from very real experience...downdrafts do not work very well, including telescoping. I had heard from some people hear that telescoping ones work at least for pots/pans right up next to them and a few inches shorter than them...but my experience this week so far has been that even those don't work very well...at least not the Dacor in our rental house (paired up w/a very nice Dacor gas cooktop...the cooktop I really like!) So you really need an overhead range hood.

    There are more and stronger air currents over/around an open space like a peninsula or island than against a wall...so you need a bigger & stronger range hood...at least 6" wider than the cooking surface and 27" deep.

    That bigger/stronger hood will also be a commanding presence in your kitchen as well as block the "view". Oh, and island hoods are generally more expensive b/c they're finished on all 4 sides instead of 3. Plus the added expensive of venting from a non-exterior wall.


    Last, why do you want the cooktop in the peninsula? Is it the absolutely only way to make your kitchen function effectively? Is it for the "view" or to visit while standing at a hot cooktop w/hot food?

    If the former, then I might say OK...with the appropriate precautions & venting.

    If the latter, then know that kitchen work studies have found that...

  4. 70% of the time spent/work done in the kitchen is prepping
  5. 20% is spent cleaning up
  6. 10% is spent actually cooking

    So, if it's for "visiting" or a "view", what does it make the most sense to have in the peninsula? The Prep Zone! Also, when I'm cooking, I watch what I'm doing...it's the last place/time I want someone distracting me...especially if you have a gas cooktop (flame).

    Sorry I'm so adamant...but the past 2.5 days have made me even more against a cooktop in a peninsula w/inadequate safety zones, inadequate workspace, and very ineffective venting!

    Post your layout...see if we can find you a better location for your cooktop! (And, remember the kitchen work flow... Refrigerator --> Prep Zone & sink --> Cooking Zone & cooktop --> Cleanup Zone & sink/DW...that's the flow to strive for in your kitchen layout.)

  7. Here is a link that might be useful: Read Me If You're New To GW Kitchens!

    NOTES:

    Good points to consider.
    clipped on: 10.20.2013 at 10:18 pm    last updated on: 10.20.2013 at 10:19 pm

    RE: Cabinets above island/peninsula photos (Follow-Up #9)

    posted by: judydel on 03.24.2009 at 11:00 am in Kitchens Forum

    We've had a peninsula for 20 years without any cabinets above. I love, love, love the open feeling. My stove is on the peninsula and I love working at the stove and looking out into the dining area beyond unobstructed. We also don't have a vent hood above the stove because we didn't want to block the open view. Not having a vent hood, believe it or not, has NOT been an issue. No soot, grime, oil, or stickiness underneath cabinets or on the ceiling as so many insist would be there without a vent. Anyway this isn't about vents it's about keeping the peninsula open. If you have the space to give up the cabs above . . . I'd say put them elsewhere.

    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 10.18.2013 at 02:36 pm    last updated on: 10.18.2013 at 02:36 pm

    RE: Any preference between 4" or 6" recessed lights?? (Follow-Up #20)

    posted by: kaysd on 09.30.2013 at 04:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

    My designer recommended the Halo ML56 series, which are available with 5" or 6" trims. The 5" looked much better to me, and uses the same LED module as the 6". We used the Halo ML5609930 LED Module, which features 746 lumens of light output, 90+ CRI, and 3000°K color temperature ($73 at polar-ray.com was best price I found). We paired those with the 5" remodel housing (Model # H550RICAT; $13 at Home Depot) and 5" White/Haze Trim (Model # 592H; $25 at Home Depot).

    The 4" options available did not have nearly as many lumens. We used an ELV dimmer from Lutron and can go from very bright to very dim light. We are pleased with the light quality and appearance.

    From a review: "The ML56 LED Recessed Downlighting System is designed for new construction, remodeling or retrofit into both 5-inch and 6-inch standard and shallow recessed housings by Halo, All-Pro or compatible recessed housings. The available color temperatures include 2700 K, 3000 K, 3500 K and 4000 K options with either an 80 CRI (minimum) or 90 CRI (minimum) option depending on the model selected. The series offers two lumen packages, including the 600 series (9.0 watts/80 CRI and 10.2 watts/90 CRI) and 900 series (13.4 watts/80 CRI or 90 CRI). The 600 series offers up to 708 lumens and the 900 series produces up to 1,010 lumens depending on the trim and color temperature selection.

    The ML56 light modules feature an inside frost lens that has the familiar look of a typical R/BR-type lamp for visual comfort and aesthetic familiarity, while offering uniform illumination. With this traditional look, the ML56 trim collection offers a complete vocabulary of 26 trims (5-inch and 6-inch), including reflectors and baffles in Halo’s popular color selection of White, Black, Specular, Haze, Satin Nickel and Tuscan Bronze. In addition, the ML56 trim collection features attractive low-profile directional LED eyeballs, non-conductive “dead-front” shower-rated baffles, and Halo-exclusive wall wash trims with a repositionable kick reflector allowing for fine-tuning adjustment of the wall wash effect."

    Here is a link that might be useful: Halo ML56 brochure

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 10.14.2013 at 09:47 am    last updated on: 10.14.2013 at 09:47 am

    LED recessed cans guide for kitchen ...

    posted by: davidtay on 01.30.2012 at 01:27 am in Lighting Forum

    A collection of tips/ answers
    Since kitchens have higher lighting requirements, I like to use 35 lumen per sq ft as a rule to compute the number of lights. If there are additional sources of light that will be used, the output (lumens not watts) from those sources can be deducted from the total.

    Placement/ layout
    1. Cans should be > 24 to 30 inches from the wall (on center). Most countertop spaces have upper cabinets (typically ~ 12" deep) + crown molding. The edge of the can may be spaced ~ 12" away from the edge of the crown molding (if present or cabinet if there is no crown molding) making the average distance between 26 to 30 inches.

    2. Assuming the need for a fairly uniformly lit space @ 35 lumens per sq ft, the cans may have to be spaced closer together - between 3 - 4 ft apart (if all general lighting is provided by recessed lights). A fairly regular pattern is preferable to a random layout.

    3. The actual layout of cans will be impacted by the location of ceiling joists, HVAC ducting, electrical wiring, plumbing, ceiling height, fire suppression sprinklers and other obstructions above the ceiling.

    Dimming
    The Cree LR6 series lamps do not dim as well as the later models (CR6, ...). ELV dimmers probably work better with LR6 than incandescent dimmers since the total load of the lights may not meet the minimum load requirement for the incandescent dimmer.

    Dimmers such as the Lutron Diva CL dimmers work well. The max output is 95%.

    Some Choices (in order of preference) and notes
    Cree CR6 or ECO-575 (Home Depot branded CR6)
    ECO4-575 (Home Depot branded Cree CR4 4" recessed light)
    The above are only available in 2700k light color.

    Cree LR6 series - including the LE6.

    The Cree CR6 and LR6 lamps will not fit into 5" housings.

    The standard LR6 behaves more like a surface mount than a recessed light as the LED emitters are close to the surface and the recess is shallow. Some may not like the amount of light spillage (standard LR6).

    There is a higher output version of the LR6 that has a much deeper recess.

    To prevent the Cree lamps from falling out, the 3 prongs have to be fully extended and a slight clockwise twist made when push installing. The slight clockwise twist will ensure that the prongs are fully extended.

    The Cree lamps are currently the best available today (2012).

    Sylvania RT-6, RT-4. The lights could be easier to install than Cree lamps as they utilize the torsion spring mechanism. However, the lights do not look as pleasant as the Cree lamps.

    The Cree and Sylvania lamps do outperform 26W CFLs (and incandescents) in a standard recessed can in terms of light spread and output as the standard bulb in a can solution traps a significant amount of light. The Cree and Sylvania recessed lamp solutions referenced above have all the LED elements facing outwards so that the effective light output is higher.

    The CRI (Color Rendition Index) of Cree and Sylvania recessed lamps > 80.

    There is no warm up time required for Cree recessed lamps, unlike CFL light bulbs.

    Most recessed lighting is used with flat ceilings. Sloped ceilings would require special solutions such as the LE6 or some other form of lighting (i.e. -non recessed lighting).

    Some common objections to recessed can lights stem from
    1. looks and performance of traditional can lights (standard bulb in a can)
    2. swiss cheese effect from too many holes.

    NOTES:

    Some things to think about.
    clipped on: 09.25.2013 at 09:20 am    last updated on: 09.25.2013 at 09:21 am

    RE: Oh no! Granite is not what we thought... (Follow-Up #28)

    posted by: gooster on 09.14.2013 at 03:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I've seen this granite before, and I found a picture of how they handled the high constrast counters (your DD's are a little bit more high contrast)

    You can what the accessories do to break up the impact of the high contrast granite.. But, more important, notice the backsplash and the wall color. By choosing the inherent taupe tones in the granite they play down the visual impact of the contrast.

    NOTES:

    Note how tv is mounted
    clipped on: 09.14.2013 at 04:56 pm    last updated on: 09.14.2013 at 04:57 pm

    RE: Blanco Precis Cascade (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: SparklingWater on 09.13.2013 at 05:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I just got this sink and it's functional.

    Yes, you can put glasses, small bowls and a small frying pan to drain in the side rack. It won't fit large items. No, I no longer need a counter drainboard but most of my prior hand washables now go in the DW for a short express or china load. You can wash cookie sheets in it, but one side will lay higher than the other if rectangular, while washing (i.e., not flat like my old rectangular SS).

    I put this sink in a 33" base. It's a great sink. The Blanco Culina faucet works superbly with it: you don't have to remove it from the magnet to fill items, and the splash point is just in front of the drain, so water goes back without problems.

    Good luck.

    NOTES:

    Info to check out.
    clipped on: 09.13.2013 at 06:28 pm    last updated on: 09.13.2013 at 06:28 pm

    RE: I poured milk on my salad. (Follow-Up #62)

    posted by: marcolo on 08.26.2010 at 10:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Quick update. Just came back from the house to check on things.

    The good: So far, the BM Lighthouse looks really nice after one coat. It's sunny and cheery but seems like that classic Colonial/English Country yellow, the one that looks so good behind Southern women and English dandies. Fingers crossed.

    The bad: My front yard has suddenly developed two large sinkholes.

    NOTES:

    Great humor!
    clipped on: 09.12.2013 at 10:22 pm    last updated on: 09.12.2013 at 10:22 pm

    RE: Can I see your beige-y granite countertops? (Follow-Up #8)

    posted by: buckeyegoldenmom on 09.11.2013 at 05:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Here is my new granite. Cream Delicatis. The walls are painted SW Basket Beige. Island is Cherry wood with a Tobacco stain.

    NOTES:

    Gorgeous countertop!
    clipped on: 09.11.2013 at 08:27 pm    last updated on: 09.11.2013 at 08:27 pm

    RE: Recommended height between counter and bottom of upper cabine (Follow-Up #4)

    posted by: buehl on 09.16.2012 at 08:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

    This is just a general FYI for anyone considering a backsplash less than 18"...........


    The standard is 18"...regardless of the reasons why, it's still the standard..

    How this affects your kitchen....

    • Refrigerator and other tall cabinet heights...Because wall cabinets are meant to be mounted at a standard height, cabinet manufacturers take this into account when designing tall cabinets. Tall cabinets are designed to be the same height as the installed wall cabinets so the tops all line up. When you change the height a wall cabinet is installed at, it affects cabinet top alignments. (Note: With custom and some semi-custom cabinets, this is a non-issue b/c the cabinetmaker/manufacturer can adjust for this.)
      • With the refrigerator you can usually mount the upper cabinet a little lower OR order a shorter upper cabinet, but be sure you don't make the alcove any shorter than 72" tall b/c newer refrigerators are 70" to 72" tall (and seem to get taller each year!)
      • With other tall cabinets like oven cabinets and pantry cabinets, they're a standard height and designed so they're the same height as the wall cabinets when those wall cabinets are installed 18" above a 36" high counter. If you have custom cabinets, this may not be an issue b/c your cabinetmaker can adjust the cabinet heights. But, if you are using stock or even some semi-custom cabinets, you cannot change the height. You can often get taller cabinets for use w/36" or 42" tall wall cabinets, but not shorter for 30" mounted lower. But, even those that are taller are also adjusted based on standard wall cabinet heights + an 18" backsplash height.

    • Small appliance height...Small appliance manufacturers often design their products to meet this 18" standard...for example, my KA stand mixer (bowl lift) is around 17" and many coffeemakers and blenders are just short of 18". So, you need to be sure you have room under the cabinets + light rail to fit those appliances.


    Small appliances...

    Keep in mind that if you're using an appliance on your counter, you must be sure you have room under the base cabinets to move that appliance around easily. Don't, for example, tell yourself you're only going to use it in front of your upper cabinets so you don't need to worry about its fit. In reality, you will be moving things around on your counter while you work and most likely your appliance will be moved under the cabinets at some point. You don't want to tear your light rail off or damage it (or the cabinets).

    Also remember that "standard" upper cabinets are 12" deep + 1" for the door...so they stick out 13" over your counter...leaving you only 12" or so of workspace in front of the upper cabinets...not much room to work in by itself! (If you have deeper upper cabinets...say 15", there's even less counter frontage in front of your upper cabinets...3" less, so 9".)


    Vertical workspace...

    Another consideration is vertical work space for you and your family. If anyone in your family is tall, you want to be careful not to make the backsplash area so short that it makes the work area cramped vertically.


    Measuring for your minimum backsplash height...

    So, how do you determine the minimum backsplash height for your kitchen and how high to install the upper cabinets?

    1. Measure all your small appliances and anything else you'll be using on the counter, If they have a lid, measure with the lid open (i.e., the tallest the appliance would ever be). Not just what's planned for the space, but what could potentially be used....stand mixer, coffeemaker, blender, food processor, breadmaker, etc. For a stand mixer, measure when the head is tilted up as well.
    2. Take the tallest measurement and add 1/4" to 1/2" (I recommend 1/2")

      Why did you add 1/4" to 1/2"? It's to give you some "wiggle" room in case everything isn't perfect...you may have slight differences in stone thickness or even how the cabinets and/or light rail was installed. It will also keep you from scratching the cabinets/light rail w/the top of the appliance (or vice versa!)

    3. This is the minimum height you will need for your backsplash

      But wait, you're not done! To be sure you have that space, you need to determine how high off the counter to mount your upper cabinets...

    4. Determine how tall your light rail will be. [Light rail is the molding that goes on the bottom of the upper cabinets that hides under cabinet lights, unfinished or differently-finished cabinet bottoms, and Plugmold (if you have it).]
    5. Now, add this to the backslash height from #3
    6. This is the distance above the finished counter your upper cabinets must be installed.
    7. Usually, though, your countertop has not yet been installed, so you will need to do one of two things...
      • If you will have standard height cabinets & counter, then add 36" to the distance in #6

        • This is the distance off the floor the upper cabinets should be installed

        • If you have lower (or higher) cabinets + counter, use the finished height you are installing instead of 36"

      • If you cannot measure off the floor b/c your base cabinets are already installed, then add 1-1/2" to the distance in #6

        • This is the distance off the top of the base cabinets (with no counter material) the upper cabinets should be installed

      • Note: If you are using countertop material thinner or thicker than 3cm or so, you will need to adjust the finished counter height measurement by the difference b/w the standard 3cm or so and your height. [If you will have a thicker counter, add the difference to the measurement in this section; if thinner, subtract the difference.]


    Please note that this recommendation has nothing to do w/upper cabinets that are installed down to the counter. Cabinets of this type have no backsplash b/w them and the counter, so the above does not apply.


    Lowering wall cabinets/shorter backsplash...

    If you lower your upper cabinets a couple of inches, how much more can you realistically reach? The depth of one or two plates? What makes more sense is to plan your storage so that frequently used items are on the bottom shelf (or in drawers in your base cabinets) and progressively less-used items move up the wall cabinets.

    Another thing that will make it easier to get into upper cabinets is to make them a little deeper...say 15". Not only will it bring things in front 3" closer to you, but those 3" add a surprising amount of extra storage...and allows you to store platters and larger dinner plates in your cabinets when 12" isn't quite deep enough.


    In the end of course, it's up to you and your family...do what will work best for you. But, if anyone is considering a shorter backsplash (or going against any other standard or guideline), be sure you're doing it with all the information available so you can make an informed decision.


    Good luck!

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.05.2013 at 11:31 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2013 at 11:32 pm

    RE: Should Bulletproof sealer prevent oil stains on marble? (Follow-Up #9)

    posted by: oldryder on 09.01.2013 at 09:26 am in Kitchens Forum

    "So do I have to use the same sealer that my fabricator used? When I asked what they used, he just said "the usual" "

    Not a very helpful answer and as far as I know the sealers at Lowe's and other big box stores are for flooring. Countertop ssealers are "food grade" such that you could roll cookie dough on the countertop and not contaminate your food.

    "Granite City Tool" and GranQuartz" are two suppliers to the fabrication industry where you could buy fabricator quality sealer on-line. Either 511 or "Bulletproof" are excellent sealers. In my experience the VOC* based sealers work best but there are water based sealers if you object to the solvent base.

    In either case an application of acetone (which is kind of stinky while you are using it) will strip whatever sealer is already on the stone.

    VOC - volatile organic compound

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.02.2013 at 01:58 pm    last updated on: 09.02.2013 at 01:58 pm

    RE: Should Bulletproof sealer prevent oil stains on marble? (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: oldryder on 08.31.2013 at 12:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I am a fabricator.

    In my experience sealer, any sealer, will not prevent stains in porous materials like marble and limestone. It is a popular misconception that sealer coats the stone and provides a barrier between the world and the stone.

    In actual fact sealer protects stone by filling the pores with inert molecules. However, this "filling" process is incomplete and liquids can still penetrate the porous structure of the stone particularly if they are given time to do so. Small, tight pores like those found in most countertop materials provide on a very limited path for liquids to penetrate so sealing is generally an effective means to protect the stone.

    Large pore stones like Marble, travertine, and limestone are much more problematic. Sealers made for porous stones have larger molecules of "filler" which helps but those stones, in a kitchen, are probably going to get stained and it's probably not going to take very long for it to happen. This is why we tell our customers not to use those stones in the kitchen.

    There is a sealing process which applies an actual barrier like the clearcoat on automotive paint. "Hydrosheild" is one brand and there are others. It usually costs $10 - $12 per sq. ft. or more and it makes the stone appear glossier which isn't always acceptable.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.02.2013 at 01:55 pm    last updated on: 09.02.2013 at 01:55 pm

    RE: Marble for some countertops--marble owners would you do it ag (Follow-Up #32)

    posted by: kiko on 04.11.2013 at 12:45 am in Kitchens Forum

    Not sure if these pics have already been posted here somewhere but here are some random "patina" pics I found linked on Houzz tonight. Thought someone might be interested in them if they are still deciding:

    http://www.countertopspecialty.com/carrera-marble-tile-shower-staining.html#sthash.p4hzZzyl.dpbs

    http://st.houzz.com/simgs/0272832f0065f7b2_7-5600/home-design.jpg


    http://www.granitegurus.com/2010/05/experiment-of-etching-marble-part-one.html

    http://www.granitegurus.com/2010/05/experiment-of-etching-marble-part-deux.html

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 08.30.2013 at 09:08 am    last updated on: 08.30.2013 at 09:08 am

    RE: Are all faucets made in China ...excpet Grohe? (Follow-Up #43)

    posted by: barthelemy on 08.23.2013 at 06:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Well, ethics matter for some, and when given the choice, some people prefer to purchase products made in countries with good social and environmental regulations, which rules out China.

    Mid-range and high-end Hansgrohe products still are made in Germany.

    Waterworks faucets are made in France by THG.

    Most IKEA faucets are now made in Italy by Paini.

    Interestingly, IKEA faucets used to be made in China but IKEA relocalized production in EU because they had too many quality problems with their Chinese supplier.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 08.23.2013 at 06:27 pm    last updated on: 08.23.2013 at 06:27 pm

    RE: Software that helps to design tile configuration (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: mamadadapaige on 12.04.2008 at 10:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

    when I was choosing my backsplash, I first narrowed down to what I thought would work for my space, color wise, level of splash! etc...

    then I used Autocad to layout the pattern I wanted. I find Autocad to be a huge hastle, couldn't figure out how to print it out (am new to it), and thus used Adobe Illustrator, which I have used for years and am very proficient in. I drew the space I wanted to tile (full size.. am able to do that in Illustrator just as you'd be able to in Autocad), then drew a rectangle to size of my tile, and then just started laying it out.

    this is how I figured out how much I'd need. I ordered the tile.

    When the tile guy came, I used my diagram to lay out the actual tiles in the pattern on my countertop so that there was no question what I wanted.

    It turned out exactly as I would have wanted (with the exception of it not having a tremendous amount of SPLASH!!.. but dh and i agreed that the more splash we went for, the more we may live to regret it/grow sick of it).

    here is a pic of the pattern I chose:
    Photobucket

    For inspiration, I love Urban Archaeology's website. linked below:

    Here is a link that might be useful: awesome tile

    NOTES:

    Love this BS!
    clipped on: 08.22.2013 at 01:49 pm    last updated on: 08.22.2013 at 01:50 pm

    RE: Walk-in pantry. Why or why not? (Follow-Up #17)

    posted by: beaglesdoitbetter on 08.20.2013 at 10:39 am in Kitchens Forum

    We love our walk-in pantry but only because it is designed well with easy-to-use storage. I don't think I'd like it if it as just a closet. Here is ours:

    Anne2326 we have a second floor laundry and we like it. However, the machines got unbalanced and it pretty much shook the whole house until they were fixed. We also have a washer/dryer in our first floor master closet so fortunately we were able to use that until the upstairs was fixed.

    NOTES:

    Wonderful walk in pantry. Love the lazy Susan corner.
    clipped on: 08.20.2013 at 01:06 pm    last updated on: 08.20.2013 at 01:06 pm

    RE: Moths in pantry - help! (long) (Follow-Up #9)

    posted by: spriggan on 09.19.2006 at 02:50 pm in Integrated Pest Management Forum

    I've had moths off and on for years. While freezing works for grains, pastas, etc, these moths come in frequently in large packages of birdseed, dog food, cat chows, and items that may be too large for the freezer you have. I tried the triangular-shaped cardboard sticky traps made for these moths, which use pheromones. THEY WORK! I told a friend about them recently and was assured they worked for her as well. I've seen them at wild bird centers and some catalogues, or online at sites like http://www.pestproducts.com/mothtrap.htm ;
    http://www.ghorganics.com/PantryPestTrap.html and Gardens Alive! as well.
    This has been the best thing I could find. Try them out....they're not expensive, last for about 3 months, breaking the cycle (hopefully!). Good luck!

    NOTES:

    Keep for future reference.
    clipped on: 08.19.2013 at 09:01 am    last updated on: 08.19.2013 at 09:02 am

    RE: Anyone see a pantry like this one? (Follow-Up #18)

    posted by: natal on 08.09.2008 at 02:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Mine is similar, but it butts up to a doorway, not a cabinet/counter. The top shelf is 9" deep, the 2nd & 3rd are 12" deep, the 4th 18", and the bottom 12". On the left side the top shelf is 9" deep and the rest are all 12". On the right all shelves are 8" deep.


    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 08.18.2013 at 08:43 pm    last updated on: 08.18.2013 at 08:43 pm

    Some thoughts about picking a fabricator (stone or quartz)

    posted by: oldryder on 08.18.2013 at 10:00 am in Kitchens Forum

    I am a fabricator.

    Unfortunately there seems to be more variation from the best to worst companies in the stone fabrication business. Here are some suggestions that might help picking a fabricator.

    In general, a recommendation from a contractor or cabinet shop should get strong consideration. The contractor or cabinet shop represents repeat business for the fabricator so they have have more leverage in the event of a problem and they also won't keep a fabricator that consistently does a poor job. In my area a cabinet shop or contractor mark-up is 10-15% over a wholesale price. Typically the price thru the 3rd party will be a little higher that what you might get direct.

    Kitchen and bath stores generally have much higher mark-ups but again they have the advantage of being repeat customers.

    Designers can offer a lot of value BUT I've had many experiences where they recommend a material that is unsuitable for the application or they provide designs that are not readily manufacturable with stone. This puts the homeowner in the unenviable position of trying to figure out who to listen to; the designer they're paying a lot of money or the stone guy.

    A good look at a fabricators showroom can give you some indication of the quality of their work.

    Look at their polished edges from several angles. If you can see prominent horizontal lines in the edge thats an indication of a shop that is putting out "production shop" quality. Not bad, and possibly cheaper, but no where near state of the art. (Even with a CNC polish good edges are possible but it takes more skill, more time, and still leaves the horizontal lines; just much less conspicious ones)

    Look at their sink cutouts. Again, horizontal lines are a negative. Ask them if you'll have a reveal, overhang, or your option.

    Look at their seams. Most of the time a seam should be practically invisible; no thicker than a razor blade. It should be most noticeable because of the grain transition. Some stones, which are "chippy", may have a slightly wider seam. A good fabricator will discuss such issues with you during the stone selection process.

    Look at the caulking in their showroom between the counter underside and cabinet and splash to wall. The caulk should be minimal, straight edges, and NO smears. A 1st rate caulk jbs takes time and a commitment to quality.

    Look at edge samples in the showroom and, specifically, any laminate samples. A 1st rate laminate has a seam that is practically invisible. Most fabricators don't do the extra work to get a hairline seam on laminate.

    If you can ask to see an actual install. Some fabricators do better work in their showroom than in peoples houses.

    There are 2 kinds of shops in the industry. Production shops, which put out a finished product that is generally deemed acceptable. Production shop edges will be full of horizontal lines characteristic of a CNC polish and they typically do not provide the one on one time with the customer during the stone selection process. Many people are satisfied with this type of service. High volume quartz countertop suppliers are often production shops because the material is virtually the same regardless of color and they don't have the layout considerations associated with the movement available in many natural stone colors.

    "Craftsman" type shops are much more focused on quality and customer service. Some large volume fabricators manage to maintain a craftsmanship style business but more typically such a shop would have a max of 20 -30 employees.

    A good fabricator will help you pick your slabs. He or she will see things in a slab you won't and also mention fabrication issues which might arise with a particular stone like the exclusion of certain edge profiles or shorter runs due to poor mechanical strength of the stone. (Picking slabs has even become necessarfy with the latest quartz colors which attempt to provide some movement. Such slabs often have pools of resin lacking in color which many people would not want in their countertops. Inspetcing the slabs gives the buyer the opportunity to reject such slabs or demand the uncolored areas not be included in their countertops.)

    NOTES:

    Great advise to read when I am considering counters.
    clipped on: 08.18.2013 at 06:22 pm    last updated on: 08.18.2013 at 06:23 pm

    RE: KAW..soapstone patina (Follow-Up #13)

    posted by: trailrunner on 08.15.2013 at 10:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Ya'll are sweet. Old bat..he is working in a new restaurant here in AL...they will open end of Aug. He is the butcher and the charcuterie person...not sure how one says that LOL ! Curing meats. You will have to come here and you KNOW you have a place to stay !

    Oatmeal Brown Sugar Bread

    2 cups rolled oats..old fashioned ...
    add 2 c boiling water
    1/4 molasses
    1/4 butter
    2 tsp kosher salt
    1/4 c brown sugar packed...let set till room temp

    Add 1 tbsp Active Dry Yeast ( Fleishman's in a jar ) to 1/4 c warm water and let proof...add to above when it has cooled.

    Add 4 c AP ( All Purpose flour ..I use King Arthur) ....mix till all is slightly wet..no dry parts...cover and let set for 1 hr.

    Put one cup flour on side and add as needed to knead bread. You can see in pic how silky the dough is . You have to know your bread dough. It should feel like a baby's bottom ( really) ,,,a little give to it and not sticky !

    Knead about 5-8 min, Place in greased bowl and cover tightly for 1 hr. Should be double. Divide in 2 loaves. 8x4 . Place in greased pans and let rise about 1 hr till over top of pan. Bake 40 -45 min/350 degrees...need to check temp...I use a dig thermometer/208 degrees or so.....but for decades I thumped the bottom to tell if done...sounds hollow when done.
    Remove from pan and cool. This is delicious as toast with jam and pbj and just plain !!

    As for the Challah...I have posted a lot of times and keep refining how I do it.

    In a large 4 c measure...place 2c warm water, 1/4 c butter, 1/4 c sugar, 2 tsp kosher salt, and 2 tsp Active dry yeast. Stir well and let set till foamy. Add 3 large eggs and stir well with a whisk.

    In a large bowl place 6 c AP flour...see above ( All Purpose King Arthur) . Pour over the above mix. Stir till all is wet. Cover and let set for 1 hr. Uncover and put 1 cup flour on side and add as needed to knead bread dough . Will likely take most. Don't want it to be dry...you can see in pic how moist and soft. Knead 8 min or so till like above...soft as a baby's bottom. Place in greased bowl. Let rise till double 1 hr. Remove and do 3 strand braid for 3 loaves...approx 20 oz each. Let rise 1 hr. Bake 350 for 30 min. May glaze with egg white or egg yolk...and sprinkle with sesame seeds. I use it for show but not for home :)

    Let cool. Enjoy. I will link to my bread tutorials...please look at them and then if you aren't used to baking bread please do ask questions. I don't want you to have a problem ! Just ask.c

    Here is a link that might be useful: Bread tutorials

    NOTES:

    Fantastic!!
    clipped on: 08.15.2013 at 10:23 pm    last updated on: 08.15.2013 at 10:23 pm

    RE: "First time right is a rare case" NOT (Follow-Up #4)

    posted by: SparklingWater on 08.15.2013 at 12:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

    IowaCommute: below is a link to Marble and Granite which provide answers for both of your questions.

    Regarding fabricators, I declined to use my General Contractor's fabricator after both visiting his warehouse as well as seeing he was not on the list below. Instead I choose a well known area marble fabricator whose work I saw and who added an acid wash to the already honed marble. The feel of the sealed marble top is amazing and worth the little extra which is charged: it withstood overnight Thai food (yellow) soon after installation with no staining just wiping it off. Don't recommend this, and kids are now aware.

    edited to add: it did not, however, withstand soldering by-product by my GC's careless electrician while installing an under-cabinet-light outlet. Small black permanent scar. Not even an apology offered...

    Here is a link that might be useful: National certified fabricator list:

    This post was edited by SparklingWater on Thu, Aug 15, 13 at 12:30

    NOTES:

    List of certified fabricators to check.
    clipped on: 08.15.2013 at 04:51 pm    last updated on: 08.15.2013 at 04:51 pm

    RE: Induction Cookware (Follow-Up #22)

    posted by: a2gemini on 08.13.2013 at 05:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I have posted before - basically, if it is magnetic it works.
    I have an eclectic collection - one of most everything except that gorgeous Debeyer copper vessel.
    All Clad, Calphalon(yes they do make some induction), CIA, DeMeyere, Scan Pan(one of my 2 non-stick pans), Staub, and LeCreuset.
    I used to have a cheap tea kettle - it worked as well.

    I think you will be happy with just about any of the vessels you are considering - or you can go my route - I kept picking up sample vessels to get you to try them. The only set I bought was the CIA - and it had just what I was missing plus the second non-stick skillet.

    I find the less layers, the less noise but they all make some noise - more when they are cold. When the fan is running - I generally can't hear the noise.

    NOTES:

    Pans for induction.
    clipped on: 08.13.2013 at 11:35 pm    last updated on: 08.13.2013 at 11:36 pm

    RE: Induction Cookware (Follow-Up #17)

    posted by: marcia59 on 08.13.2013 at 02:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Nothing is simple. I just got off the phone with Cuisinart because I wanted to understand the difference between the French Classic Tri-Ply Stainless and the Multi-Clad Pro. The CS person said that the Tri-Ply is the only line they make that's made in France. Everything else is made in China. She also said that the reason you can use metal utensils on the Tri-Ply, but not the MultiClad is that the aluminum in the Tri-Ply is better encased in stainless steel and with the Multi-Clad, it's possible to scratch through the stainless and expose the aluminum, which you really don't want near your food. She also said that in the French Classic, the aluminum core is in the whole pan, while in the Multiclad, it's only in the base.

    Cuisinart's list prices for the French Classic are substantially higher than for the Multiclad.

    Interestingly, the $200 Cuisinart set at Costco, on close inspection, is not the French Tri-Ply stainless I've been discussing here. It's just called Professional Tri-Ply Stainless, it has glass covers, not stainless ones. I assume it's not made in France. Since it's not a line listed on the Cuisinart site, I assume it's made specifically for Costco (and maybe other discount retailers).

    I'm not saying it's junk or that any of us would be wasting our money buying it, just that you have to read really, really carefully to be sure about what you're getting at various stores.

    Bed, Bath & Beyond carries the French Tri-Ply at Cusinart's list prices, but there are those lovely 20% coupons. Prices at Amazon seem to be about the same as actual list. What they show as list appears to be pure fiction.

    Got that?

    NOTES:

    Good info on specific pans for induction.
    clipped on: 08.13.2013 at 11:30 pm    last updated on: 08.13.2013 at 11:31 pm

    RE: Racing Red Induction (Follow-Up #31)

    posted by: dodge59 on 06.20.2012 at 06:09 pm in Appliances Forum

    rmtdog, here is a picture I got from the Viking Quick Reference guide.

    It shows pretty well how the controls work, pretty much like any convention gas or electric range, alto I suspect the settings are more accurate, than most ranges, especially gas ones.

    Viking Induction Range Quick Reference Guide

    Gary

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 08.07.2013 at 06:30 am    last updated on: 08.07.2013 at 06:31 am

    RE: Please help design my small pantry (Follow-Up #9)

    posted by: OntarioMom on 08.05.2013 at 09:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Hi all,

    Well, I think we have come up with our plans for the pantry/dumb waiter/freezer wall. I have combed through past pantry threads and hope I have a plan that will work. I was very inspired by Buehl's message niche, and have incorporated that into my design as well (thanks Buehl!). I was also inspired by the manual dumb waiter incorporated by Tsdiver. I will be using the same manual dumb waiter that she did. I have linked her post below as I hope to have cabinetry around my dumb waiter like she did -- hers is beautiful. I hope you don't mind me showing new members your gorgeous kitchen, Tsdiver.

    Any comments or suggestions?

    Carol

     photo pantrywall_zps39b3ce22.jpg

    Here is a link that might be useful: dumb waiter thread

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 08.05.2013 at 09:45 pm    last updated on: 08.05.2013 at 09:45 pm

    RE: Besides SS, what sinks are shallow but wide? (Follow-Up #3)

    posted by: SparklingWater on 08.05.2013 at 04:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

    The Blanco sink site isn't let me show a photo just now, but our Blanco Silgranit II Precis Cascade is 28" in length by 18" in width in a 33" sink base cabinet. It's a split sink with low divide, 7.5" on left and 5 1/2" on slightly raised right side. So under-mounted, the greatest depth is 8.5". We love it. Cost was ~$550.00 or less-can't recall.

    Have you heard of the Sink Setter if you're going the undermount way? It allows the sink egress from below should their be a countertop problem. I put one in upon advice of GW. Even my fabricator had installed them before.

    NOTES:

    This is the one to check out.
    clipped on: 08.05.2013 at 09:32 pm    last updated on: 08.05.2013 at 09:33 pm

    RE: do you have Pietra Cardosa or Soapstone that you keep grey? (Follow-Up #8)

    posted by: fivefootzero on 05.08.2013 at 08:09 am in Kitchens Forum

    Our soapstone is gray naturally, if I oiled or waxed it would be a much darker gray.

    We have Belvedere from M. Tex. We do nothing to keep it this color. I clean the counters with Lysol Kitchen cleaner spray.

    NOTES:

    I could live with joy with this soapstone!
    clipped on: 07.15.2013 at 01:28 pm    last updated on: 07.15.2013 at 01:29 pm

    RE: do you have Pietra Cardosa or Soapstone that you keep grey? (Follow-Up #4)

    posted by: leela4 on 05.07.2013 at 12:13 am in Kitchens Forum

    Well, we keep ours gray. We've had it for almost 3 years now-it's on perimeter counters and the island. I really don't work too hard to keep it gray, but our variety also has some speckles or spots on it that are a little darker so small spots of oil sort of blend in, and then fade away. If there is a big weird looking smear of oil, which happens sometimes, I just clean it either with Dawn, or sometimes a product called ''Greased Lightning''. I read something on here once about what the Greased Lightning had in it, but since the soapstone doesn't absorb it, and I wipe it off and then wipe it with a soapy rag, I don't worry too much about it. All in all, we really wanted a light gray/blue-ish soapstone, not dark gray, so that's what we have:
     photo IMG_0157.jpg
    Closeup of island:
     photo IMG_0504.jpg
    HTH

    NOTES:

    Love the color of this soapstone!
    clipped on: 07.15.2013 at 01:25 pm    last updated on: 07.15.2013 at 01:25 pm

    RE: Interesting hoods - please post pics! (Follow-Up #23)

    posted by: deeageaux on 07.11.2013 at 02:05 am in Kitchens Forum

    crazybusytoo,

    I would contact the following to get a quote.

    www.modernaire.com

    www.prizerhoods.com

    www.rawurth.com


    Modern Aire would give the most functional hood not sure if they can match the finish.

    Rah Urth probably the most beautiful and expensive. If they can't match the finish they probably know who can.

    But I would contact them all.

    NOTES:

    Good sites to check. This thread was lots of fun filled with lots of pics of unique hoods.
    clipped on: 07.15.2013 at 01:19 pm    last updated on: 07.15.2013 at 01:20 pm

    RE: Stay away from these counter tops (Follow-Up #3)

    posted by: live_wire_oak on 07.13.2013 at 08:21 am in Kitchens Forum

    Quartz will chip occasionally---as will any stone. That's 100% normal, and is why it's not covered in any warranty. A fancy imported epoxy for repair isn't necessary. The same plain epoxy that was used to seam it will repair it. There are several brands readily available to anyone in the trade. A good fabricator would have already been out there and taken care of it. Then, because of the many chips rather than just one or two, they'd have contacted the company with a claim proactively. The poor response from the fabricator that you're receiving isn't because of the lower quality material itself. It's the quality of the fabricators.

    Having never heard of your brand of quartz, I can't say that if you may have other issues with it down the road or not. There are several Chinese knockoffs being sold to fabricators, who name them anything they want, including using something Italian as a subterfuge to avoid the stigma of the Chinese production. The only good quality quartz comes from the Breton machines patented to Cosentino in Spain, who produce Silestone. They were the originator, and they've sold the production machines to only a select few others like Ceasarstone, Cambria, etc. The original process uses higher temperature and weights in the hydraulics to achieve a denser packed, better cured, more structurally sound slab than the knockoffs can with the Chinese produced machines.

    After putting this post on hold for a tad and reading up a bit on this, I'm not even sure that the material can be accurately described as "quartz". It seems to indicate that it uses marble as the aggregate in the resin instead of quartz. Marble is MUCH MUCH softer, more porous and of course, more importantly, isn't quartz! Overall, it seems to be a deceptive company. It's Verona based, but it's Chinese produced, and NOT with the proprietary Breton machines.

    I'm truly sorry that you had a poor experience with the material that you chose, and with your fabricator. I wouldn't hold it against a true quartz material installed by a reputable fabricator though. There is a reason that you've seen the glowing reports for quartz, and all that you've heard about it is true. Unfortunately, that's not what you received, and your fabricator doesn't seem to be terribly responsive to your issues either. A double whammy. Thanks for warning us about the specific brand and the issues you've had with it.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 07.13.2013 at 11:39 am    last updated on: 07.13.2013 at 11:39 am

    RE: How does black granite hold up? Anyone with experience... (Follow-Up #7)

    posted by: buehl on 08.30.2010 at 01:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

    We have polished Absolute Black Premium throughout our new kitchen and love it! Yes, we would do it again!

    Scratching...I think Weissman is referring to me! I scratched my counter with my diamond ring...it was, unbeknown to me, under a book on the counter. When I dragged the book toward me, I heard a scratching sound. When I picked up the book & saw my ring, my heart sank...sure enough there was a scratch about a foot long on my counter. Luckily, the scratch is so fine that I have to really search to find it...I'm sure no one else sees it!

    Our counters look as good today as the day they were installed (spring 2008)...no "wear & tear", etc. other than that scratch, but no one can see it but me (and I see it only if I search for it).

    As to "streaks"...if you wipe your counters in a circular motion you rarely see streaks...unless you have too much detergent on your dishcloth/sponge. If you do, you will probably see streaks and/or a haze...but they wipe right off with a rinsed cloth. When I want my counters to look "pristine" and shine their brightest, I use Method Daily Granite Cleaner (found at Target, BB&B, and other stores) and a microfiber cloth.

    Note: The microfiber cloth is a great item...it works on granite, stainless steel, etc. better than even cotton materials. There's no lint.


    [FYI...my ring would have scratched any surface, so any counter I had would have been scratched!]

    NOTES:

    Method daily product to clean black granite.
    clipped on: 07.04.2013 at 11:11 am    last updated on: 07.04.2013 at 11:11 am

    RE: Recs for range hoods/vents with upsidedown T shape (Follow-Up #6)

    posted by: akchicago on 07.03.2013 at 08:30 am in Kitchens Forum

    CT_Newbie - yes, glass will show every spatter from what you are cooking. It depends on your personality whether that will bother you or not. Some people are really good about cleaning the glass after cooking, and they don't mind. Or they don't mind looking at the splatters. Other people would rather only have to wipe the hood once in a while, so they buy a stainless hood. So you know your own self and how you'd feel!

    I'd be more concerned that a glass hood is designed more for looks, and they do look cool. But it won't have the capture area of a hood like pictured in Breezygirl's photo linked above. Also glass hoods have mesh filters, which was also mentioned above. It's again a matter of cleaning habits - mesh will get clogged with grease as you cook, cutting back on the hood's ability to exhaust. If you are cooking something like hamburgers, the mesh will clog significantly. If you are good about putting the mesh filter in the DW frequently, you'll be fine. Baffle filters on the other hand will get the grease in their baffle channels, but their exhaust ability will not be compromised. Of course, baffle filters need to be cleaned too, but mesh MUST be clean in order to work. It is a shame to spend a lot of money on a hood, only to have it not work well simply cause you forgot to clean the mesh filters. That's why baffle filter hoods are preferable, but again if you will be cleaning the filters frequently, then mesh will be fine.

    I know myself, and I know I would not like a glass hood. My bathroom mirrors already make me OCD just from water splashing, LOL, so I def could not deal with a glass hood!

    Another brand for you to look at - the Kobe RA02 line. Cool pyramid shape, great capture area, 24" deep so it will cover the front burners, has rounded corners. A lot of bang for the buck. Popular with the Appliances Forum regulars.

    This post was edited by akchicago on Wed, Jul 3, 13 at 8:41

    NOTES:

    Mesh vs baffles for hood.
    clipped on: 07.03.2013 at 09:47 am    last updated on: 07.03.2013 at 09:47 am

    RE: Progress - not problems (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: williamsem on 07.01.2013 at 01:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Yay! You've turned the corner now and get to see it all put together. That's a fantastic feeling, isn't it?

    If you don't have one already, I'd suggest spending $50 in a short work platform to assist in painting. It's about 20 in tall and like 30 in wide, and should make cutting in much easier. Less up and down the step stool! I saw the painter here use one, and it's on my list to get when I'm ready to tackle the rest of the house.

    NOTES:

    Painting help to look into.
    clipped on: 07.02.2013 at 08:27 am    last updated on: 07.02.2013 at 08:27 am

    update - re: silgranit scratched - soooo bummed (Follow-Up #15)

    posted by: frugalnotstingy on 07.01.2013 at 05:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Scratches are all gone! :-D

    I used Bon Ami (that is what I have on hand as opposed to BKF), dobie pad & a little elbow grease. I didn't really scrub that hard -scrubbed just like I would clean my stainless steel pans. Then I rinsed & wiped it dry to see if it made any difference & lo & behold, no more scratches/marks! I didn't bother to do the soak & mineral oil steps as I could not see any marks after the scrubbing.

    I tried to scratch the sample chip that I have by running a knife on it HARD several times & it didn't even scratch. Go figure. But I am a happy camper now. ;-)

    This is the after of the 2nd photo above:
     photo photo1_zps42ff7537.jpg

    And after of the 3rd photo:
     photo photo2_zps53221a32.jpg
    The white speck you see there is probably just bon ami that I didn't wipe off - it's not there now.

    NOTES:

    Great remedy!
    clipped on: 07.02.2013 at 08:22 am    last updated on: 07.02.2013 at 08:23 am

    RE: Silgranit scratched - soooo bummed (Follow-Up #13)

    posted by: calumin on 06.26.2013 at 03:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

    If you search enough you'll find that even though Silgranit II seems to be very scratch-resistant, reports of minor scratching are out there.

    Blanco also recommends using 50% bleach / 50% water with a soft scouring pad (but not steel wool) for minor scuff marks. See here.

    There's an eHow article about how to patch a scratched Silgranit sink with epoxy -- but that seems pretty drastic and for a much deeper scratch than what you have. It is here.

    NOTES:

    Good info to know.
    clipped on: 07.02.2013 at 08:19 am    last updated on: 07.02.2013 at 08:19 am

    RE: Vitamin - please rate presets (Follow-Up #9)

    posted by: angela12345 on 06.25.2013 at 09:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

    At the low speed (variable speed 1), the 5200 and others with the 2hp motor goes much slower than the Pro 750 at variable speed 1 with the 2.2hp motor and the longer blades in the wide base container. So it chops at a slower speed, which I read to mean chopped and not "blended". You can try using variable speed 1 and pulse on the 750 so you don't end up over processing.

    5200, 5200c, 5200s, Creations I, Creations II, Creations GC, CIA Professional Series, Pro 200, Total Nutrition Center, TurboBlend VS, etc. are all basically the same 2hp machine with different names.

    The Pro 500 and the 6300 are those 2hp machines with pre-set buttons, they also have pulse.

    Pro 300, Pro 750, Creations Elite, and the 7500 (The "Next Generation" Machines) all have the same motor base. The Creations Elite comes with a 48 oz. container, the others come with the short/squat 64 oz wider bottom container. The Pro 750 has pre-sets. These all have the 2.2hp motor that is supposed to be quieter (suspended motor design).
    Regarding the ones with the short 64oz container, you would need to buy an extra. wet container with the smaller bottom (for example, the 32oz) because the bigger bottomed container doesn't do well with recipes under 2 cups. The 32 oz. does great with recipes that go down to as little as 3/4 of a cup and one cup recipes like mayonnaise, pesto, salad dressings, and marinades. Plus it is easier to get these smaller batches out of it, because the sides are not so high.

    I think it is the "next generation" machine where the fan runs during all of the variable speeds, or that may be the Pro 500 and the 6300. The Pro 750 has 2 additional presets (puree and clean) along with pulse.

    A lot of the model numbers have to do with which cookbook the blender comes with, which containers, and sometimes where it is sold. (for example 5200S and 6300 are both Costco models)

    Note the difference in the dry container and the wet container ... the wet container pulls things down into the blades, the dry container blows them up out of the blades. So if you were blending almonds, the wet container would be best for almond butter, while the dry container would be best for almond flour.

    For the wet containers, in addition to the 64oz tall (standard container), they make a 32oz and a 48oz. Also, there is a 64oz short that I do not think is available to purchase separately, it only comes with the Next Generation machines. In the dry, there is only the 32oz. Most any of the shorter containers are better for sitting under your cabinets. I think you can get any additional container for $100 within 30 days of your VM purchase.

    Note: this is all information I learned & saved from others. My machine is not this newest model.

    NOTES:

    Good info.
    clipped on: 06.26.2013 at 09:29 am    last updated on: 06.26.2013 at 09:30 am

    RE: Vertical Drawer Dividers (Follow-Up #12)

    posted by: andreak100 on 06.08.2013 at 08:57 am in Kitchens Forum

    Sorry to hijack - but reading with interest the cast iron debate...I discussed this at length with our cabinet maker. We are going with 3/8 drawer bottoms rather than the standard 1/4" and there is a plan to put "bracing" strips in the center areas of the drawer underneath (maybe it's called a muntin???) - so as I understand it, we will have our full extension glides (concealed under the drawer) and then have a couple strips running the depth of the drawer back (same direction as the glides) which should help eliminate potential bowing issues.

    Be sure that when you are planning how much you're putting in the drawer that you remember to factor in the weight of the drawer itself (this is surprisingly heavy! I believe that I've read on here that 36" drawers can be 35-ish lbs.

    So, while the "no cast iron" is a worthwhile caution, I think that it may be possible to still do it as long as you know in advance where you're putting it AND you take precautions.

    NOTES:

    Good info to remember when it comes to drawers and weight.
    clipped on: 06.08.2013 at 10:22 am    last updated on: 06.08.2013 at 10:22 am

    RE: To finish floors before cabinet installation or after (Follow-Up #9)

    posted by: breezygirl on 09.17.2012 at 12:46 am in Kitchens Forum

    Ours were also like Pooh's. Install, sanded, stained, and two top coats. Then cabs went in the kitchen and DR. (We installed new unfinished wood floors in entry, FR, LR, DR, mudroom, and kitchen as part of a whole house reno.) Very last item before we moved in was the last top coat.

    I did cover the floors with Ram board (like thin cardboard on a roll, but water resistant) after the two top coats. The inspector, carpenters installing a house full of trim and doors, electrician, cab maker, wood floor company, painting company doing trim and doors,and plumber were all impressed with the board. All those guys and tools tromping in and out over months did zero damage to the floors.

    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 06.01.2013 at 07:27 pm    last updated on: 06.01.2013 at 07:27 pm

    RE: Basic Cabinet Education -- FAQs (Follow-Up #8)

    posted by: buehl on 05.27.2013 at 04:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Thanks for the clarification Jakuvall....I understand what you mean now and I agree! The final plan may take a bit of time, so it needs to wait until you've decided on a KD. It's not fair, IMHO, to ask a KD to put the hours in for a final plan until you've committed to that KD - unless you're paying the KD for the design work, regardless of whether you finally sign with that KD. Many, if not most KDs, though, will do the final design work as part of the project once you've committed to them. Or, they charge you and then credit it back to you when you place an order.

    Out of curiosity Jakuvall - what do you think is a better # for the hold back? I'm interested to know b/c it may have changed since I redid my kitchen or since it was last discussed on this site. I think you do have to hold back some b/c otherwise the KD is most likely going to plan right to the budget with none left over for emergencies.

    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 05.29.2013 at 05:06 pm    last updated on: 05.29.2013 at 05:06 pm

    RE: Basic Cabinet Education -- FAQs (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: jakuvall on 05.27.2013 at 09:26 am in Kitchens Forum

    No doubt you'll get a few post with links to threads they like but a suggestion.
    A large part of a KDs joob is education, take advantage of it.
    Pick 6 places that look promising. Call each one and ask to speak with a designer. Tell them the first 2 sentences of your post and that your shopping around, when you plan on being done and the type of things your going to want to know. Your not looking for the info on the phone, rather for who you'll go see.
    Make appointments with 3 of them. Having an appt. Will make you stand out should ensure the right person has set time aside for you.
    Go in with - a floor plan even if rough, a list of amenities, a budget number you are comfortable with (make it up) and a list of priorities. Now go on a field trip. Each appt should be 1-2 hrs.
    Tell them your end-budget, priorities etc-IOW what it takes for them to get the job.

    Spend most of the time having them show the things you want to learn, what you get for this much $ and what you get for that. Leave them the plan and list to price. Tell them NOT to design anymore than they need, just to price as you want a clear relative baseline. Ask when you can expect to hear from them with the info. Tell them when you expect to make a decision by.

    If any turn out unsatisfactory go to the next one on your list-started with 6 , only used 3.

    You will now know a lot about cabinets, have seen finishes and details, and most important have begun to get a good idea of who you might like to work with and relative pricing . With a little luck have found one. Again if you have not found a good fit go back to the list.

    You will get more value from the right person than the right brand.
    As with most things reading is nice, experiencing better.
    If you found someone you now have an asset as you move forward.

    One caveat- it is human nature to look for reasons NOT to buy. It is easier to find reason to elimate- Try to keep that instinct in check until you know who is right for you.

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    RE: Basic Cabinet Education -- FAQs (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: jakuvall on 05.27.2013 at 01:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

    From semi custom on your getting a good cabinet that will hold up. Important differences revolve around finish and wood grading.

    In my business when selecting a brand for a price point-
    I will only carry brands that: use Blum or Grass drawer glides, and have no Chinese ply at any price.

    -Basic semi custom will have pocket hole frames
    -Mid will have doweled frames (frames not the doors) better grading and finish (though my semi has a great finish and unusually good grading for the price)
    -At the hi end custom, I expect mortise and tenon frames, superior finish, grading and some very nice details and absolute flexibility to design doors get any wood or finish and impeccable delivery.

    -In all I expect as much flexibility as I need to design, even my basic semi brand will do sizing to 1/8". (like all designers I'm a spoiled child ;->

    -For frameless I expect doweled boxes at every price, melamine is fine. I don't think ply is a big deal on frameless but clients want it at some point. Personally I think it is a waste of money.
    (I have yet to find a basic" price frameless I consider suitable but just added a line and discovering more about it's pricing now so will see. One can hope)
    - At some point I start to look for NAUF- no added urea formaldehyde as an option.

    All that said- who you work with, both designer and installer, is far more important than the details of construction. Hollysprings will often point out that a good designer can take a soso line and make it look and work like a million bucks. A bad installer can butcher a kitchen even with the best cabinets made.

    If this is new construction you want to order your cabinets when they start to sheet rock. You want to have your design finalized well before, preferably before framing (if you can find a designer who will work that way) but definitely before electric.

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    clipped on: 05.29.2013 at 05:03 pm    last updated on: 05.29.2013 at 05:04 pm

    RE: Basic Cabinet Education -- FAQs (Follow-Up #6)

    posted by: buehl on 05.27.2013 at 02:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

    While looking at cabinet specs is, eventually, a good idea. Of more importance is the Kitchen Designer (KD) her/himself.

    1. Does the KD actually listen to you when you tell her/him your needs/wants/etc.?

      Is s/he paying attention, taking notes, and, ultimately when s/he gives you a rough design has s/he taken your desires into account (i.e., didn't just throw a generic plan together to get a quote)?

      If the KD is not paying attention and taking your needs/want into account (after all, it's your kitchen and you are paying the KD) when the KD is trying to get the sale, it will not get better later!

      I know Jakuvall says you don't need the detailed plan yet, but you need something to indicate whether the KD is someone who will listen to you and not just do what s/he wants. We ran into that when we planned our remodel. Needless to say, those KDs were quickly eliminated from our short list.

    2. Does the KD respect your budget? There have been numerous posts here about KDs going over budget (often by 100% or more) with the estimate! When giving them your budget, reduce it by 15% to 20% b/c you will most likely need that for surprises (even a new build may have surprises), appliances/fixtures/hardware more expensive than anticipated or b/c you wanted to upgrade, and things just costing more than the estimate indicated.
    3. Do you and the KD "click" - i.e., do you appear to work together well? Even the best KDs may not work with everyone well - it's more a matter of personalities and, in some cases, "taste" in color/designs.

    When you get that estimate, btw, be sure you're comparing apples-to-apples and not apples-to-bananas. Some lines that may appear more expensive may not be b/c they have standard items (like soft-close drawers) that other lines charge extra for. So, be sure you know what the estimates include. If one is missing something or another has something extra b/c it's standard & you want it, you need to take that into account. (If the latter has something extra as standard that's something you don't want or don't care about, then let the estimate stand as-is; if something you want is not in another estimate, then you need to find out what it will add to that estimate.)

    Most KDs have a variety of cabinet lines - ranging from budget/builder-grade through semi-custom and custom, so you will probably find what you're looking for with most KDs. However, to ensure you do, after you've winnowed down your list to the top 2 or 3 KDs, look at what they offer - does one have a door style or finish that you like that the other does not? Does one have more options? etc...

    I understand that you're in a hurry, but taking the time needed up-front will save you possible issues, problems, and angst later on. The earlier in the process that you find problems, the less costly and time-consuming it is to fix them.


    Good luck!

    This post was edited by buehl on Mon, May 27, 13 at 14:07

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    clipped on: 05.29.2013 at 05:04 pm    last updated on: 05.29.2013 at 05:04 pm

    RE: How do you store a LARGE collection of spices? (Follow-Up #71)

    posted by: imrainey on 03.23.2008 at 08:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

    BTW, when freshness and using spices up in a reasonable amount of time is an issue there are many spice blends you can do yourself so you don't have to store every possible combination. Make as much or as little as you want. Most of these recipes fill a 4oz. spice jar.

    Mixing them up is a wonderful sensory experience.

    Here are a few that I do myself:

    Apple Pie Blend
    � cup (or 24 parts) cinnamon
    1 tablespoon (or 6 parts) allspice
    2 teaspoon (or 4 parts) nutmeg
    � teaspoon (or 1 part) cardamom, optional

    Pumpkin Pie Blend
    � cup (or 24 parts) cinnamon
    2 tablespoon (or 12 parts) ginger
    2 teaspoon (or 4 parts) ground cloves
    1 teaspoon (or 2 parts) nutmeg
    � teaspoon (or 1 part) cardamom, optional

    Curry Blend
    1 tablespoon (or 1 part) cayenne
    � cup (or 8 parts) granulated garlic
    � cup (or 12 parts) paprika
    � cup (or 4 parts) turmeric
    1 � cup (or 24 parts) curry powder

    Mexican Rub for Pork
    1 teaspoon granulated garlic
    1 teaspoon cumin
    � teaspoon (or 8 parts) epizote
    � teaspoon (or 8 parts) kosher salt
    � teaspoon (or 4 parts) freshly ground black pepper
    � teaspoon (or 4 parts) ground cloves
    ⅛ teaspoon (or 2 parts) oregano
    1 pinch (or 1 part) cinnamon

    Emeril's "Essence"
    2 � tablespoon paprika
    2 tablespoon (or 2 parts) salt
    2 tablespoon (or 2 parts) garlic powder
    1 tablespoon (or 1 part) black pepper
    1 tablespoon (or 1 part) onion powder
    1 tablespoon (or 1 part) cayenne
    1 tablespoon (or 1 part) dried oregano
    1 tablespoon (or 1 part) dried thyme

    Combine all ingredients thoroughly and store in an airtight jar or container.

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    clipped on: 03.26.2013 at 12:47 am    last updated on: 03.26.2013 at 12:47 am

    RE: OK, speaking of cabinetry quotes (Follow-Up #7)

    posted by: live_wire_oak on 01.28.2013 at 11:00 am in Kitchens Forum

    I just want to echo something that seems to get lost.

    It's more about the KD and the relationship that you have with that person than it is about price.

    A good KD can give you the kitchen that you want in numerous cabinet lines. If you want what 80% of everyone does these days, shaker cabinets, then every single line on the planet can give you that. You can buy 3K worth of Chinese cabinets at a discount warehouse, or you can buy 10K worth of stock cabinets from a box store, or you can buy 18K worth of semi-custom cabinets from a design shop, or you can buy 30K worth of cabinets from a full custom cabinet maker. They will all give you "the look" that you're going for.

    No, I'm not saying that 3K worth of Chinese cabinets in limited sizes and styles can give you the "same" kitchen that 30K from a custom artisan can. Not at all. There are huge differences in construction quality and wood quality used there. The two kitchens will only superficially resemble each other. Like the old high/low design exercises that were in Metropolitan Home. There will still be huge differences between the two. What you need to decide is what those differences and costs bring to the table for you. And that's where the KD can help you to understand the value for the money spent.

    It usually comes down to a quality of materials and construction and finishing increase as you go up the price ladder. Some features are worth paying more money for. For some people. Some people put budget first. Those are actually the easiest people to satisfy. It's always easy to give someone the absolute cheapest option without any thought or creativity having to be exercised.

    So, if you came into my shop with a basic layout and a list of cabinets wanting a quote, what would happen? I would give you exactly what you asked for! Give me the list, and the specs, and I can put you into a cabinet line and quote you exactly what you're asking for in about 15 minutes. That will let you compare prices for the same layout. Then, I'd tell you what's missing from the other quote (most don't include moldings, drawer pulls, toekick, finished sides and other needed pieces that add up to about 15% more than the "cabinet" quote.). Then, I'd tell you what I'd do differently with your layout, and if you'd leave me a copy, I'd work on it a bit in the quoted line and give you a price to be able to compare a better layout in the same line. At that second meeting with the better kitchen, I'd tell you how the line that you are in compares to the other lines that I carry and why you might be interested in better quality for not much more money, or maybe a less costly line that could give you more for your money. Then, if you wanted a third meeting, it's retainer time. No documents leave my hands until you pay me a retainer. I'll verbally give you a price and show you the renderings, but you don't get any copies of anything to take home until you decide you want to go to the prom with me.

    NOTES:

    Good info on the cab quote process.
    clipped on: 03.25.2013 at 05:40 pm    last updated on: 03.25.2013 at 05:40 pm

    RE: Granite counter tops (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: mydreamhome on 03.19.2013 at 08:49 am in Kitchens Forum

    We have Kashmir White and River White--both are similar to the Cottage Cream depending on the slabs/lots. There can be a world of difference between them. The ones in our master bath look vastly different from the one in the laundry room.

    As far as staining goes, the granite needs to be sealed well. Spills should be cleaned up as they happen when at all possible. Any that sit and have penetrated the granite can be remedied with a poultice made of original blue Dawn dishwashing detergent and flour. We've been in our house 16 months and we're not the neatest people when cooking, we have kids so they are not the neatest when eating and I would not say we baby our granite or treat it any differently than we did our old laminate (other than the lesson learned from pie crusts-story below). I think just about everything has been spilled on the granite and the only problems we've had have been Crisco penetrating the granite (Note to self: Don't roll out 5 double pie crusts in row directly on the granite), and an incident with a Wal-Mart bag that was set down in a puddle of condensation from a glass and sat for a day or two. The water mixed with the blue dye from the logo penetrated the granite and left a blue circle about the diameter of a glass. We applied the poultice and it came right out.

    Hope this helps!

    NOTES:

    Note the poultice for a stain on granite.
    clipped on: 03.20.2013 at 11:32 am    last updated on: 03.20.2013 at 11:32 am

    RE: Please show me the inside of your flatware drawer (Follow-Up #20)

    posted by: zelmar on 02.21.2013 at 07:53 am in Kitchens Forum

    Our silverware drawer is in our 36" wide pantry cabinet near our table. I bought our first real set of silverware during the reno but I wanted to hold on to all of the odd pieces we somehow ended up with and used for the 15 years prior.

    We originally had a divider from the cabinet maker but I recently switched over to bamboo boxes from BBB. They are very sturdy and they can be lifted out individually if I want to put a bunch silverware on the counter when we serve buffet style. The boxes are deep and sturdy. We had an adjustable (width) divider in another drawer but I got rid of it pretty quickly because it wasted a lot of vertical space with the design and the individual cubbies were too shallow for my needs.

    The boxes added up and ended up being pricey but I loved them so much I bought them for 6 other drawers in the kitchen. The money spent on the bones of the kitchen isn't worth it if the hard working areas aren't as functional as they can be.

    Photobucket

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    clipped on: 03.16.2013 at 10:28 pm    last updated on: 03.16.2013 at 10:28 pm

    RE: Has anyone installed an oven under an induction cooktop? (Follow-Up #10)

    posted by: live_wire_oak on 01.27.2013 at 10:41 am in Kitchens Forum

    There are many induction ranges available! AJ Madison lists 15 and that's just the ones that they carry. You can surely find something on that list that will do what you need! Remember than induction requires a big circuit, 50-60 amps. I would be sure to oversize the wiring used for it (but use the required breaker size) to be able to "futureproof" the installation in case more powerful versions are available at a later time.

    Here is a link that might be useful: AJ Madison Induction

    NOTES:

    Talk to electrician about this. It is a good thing to do.
    clipped on: 03.09.2013 at 03:31 pm    last updated on: 03.09.2013 at 03:31 pm

    RE: Window cleaner with cornstarch? (Follow-Up #6)

    posted by: measure_twice on 03.06.2013 at 12:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

    OK, so I got all inspired and followed the recipe and tried it with black-and-white newspaper on the two worst glass panes in the house - the kitchen window over the sink and on the bathroom mirror. The exact mix varies a bit, here is the one I used from Battle of the Homemade Glass Cleaners:
    1/4 cup white vinegar
    1/4 cup 70 percent rubbing alcohol
    1 tablespoon corn starch
    2 cups warm water

    Spray. Scrub. Wipe. And...

    Holy toothpaste, Batman!

    The window is so clear it looks like it evaporated, like it does not exist. Open air. You could put your hand through.

    The mirror is eerie. It shows no surface dust to give you a clue it exists. It really looks like there is an opening into another room and there's a strange guy standing in that room. Oh crud, do I really look like that?

    NOTES:

    I want to try this.
    clipped on: 03.07.2013 at 08:20 am    last updated on: 03.07.2013 at 08:20 am

    RE: Window cleaner with cornstarch? (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: mrsmortarmixer on 03.06.2013 at 02:35 am in Kitchens Forum

    The recipe I use is:
    1/4 c. white vinegar
    1 Tbsp cornstarch
    2 c. warm water

    I love it, and it does an amazing job!

    NOTES:

    Great to know this info.
    clipped on: 03.07.2013 at 08:18 am    last updated on: 03.07.2013 at 08:18 am

    RE: Induction / Gas - best value? (Follow-Up #6)

    posted by: JWVideo on 01.16.2013 at 01:51 am in Appliances Forum

    >>>" Is there a way to go induction without spending $3,000+?"<<<

    Sure. As DCJersey says, there are numbers of induction ranges that cost less than $3k and several that cost less than $2k. AJ Madison is indeed an excellent place to check out the offerings.

    For less than $2k, the current choices for induction in ranges for the US are all freestanding models:


    (a) A couple of Samsung NOPBSR models: one is roughly $1300 (NE595NOPBSR) and the other is $1600 (NE597NOPBSR) at AJ Madison. I looked at the 597 pretty seriously several months ago and have posted about it (including in a thread DCJersey started a couple of months ago.) The NE597 looked like a pretty good deal, but Samsung has not been in the US market long enough to have developed much of a track record for judging long term reliability and parts availability. That can give some people pause. Also, people have reported problems with Samsung's outsourced warranty service on other other Samsung products. Consumer Reports rates Samsung highly for cooktop and oven performance, slightly behind GE's induction stoves. There is no data yet about Samsung electrical stoves in CR's annual membership product reliability surveys.

    (b) Some Whirlppool branded products (a Whirlpool, a Maytag and a KitchenAid). The Whirlpool and Maytag have unusual burner arrangements (small burners up front with the burner control pad betweent them). The Kitchenaid looks like it might be outsourced and rebranded from Electrolux/Frigidaire or maybe even Samsung. The criticism of the WP products is that their only oven self-cleaning is a "steam clean" function which reportedly does not work very well. (I wound up buying an NXR gas stove and use the steam-clean technique, which requires wiping out (if not scrubbing) the oven with a blue Scotch-brite scrubbing sponge. It is not bad but, then, NXR does not claim to have a self-cleaning oven function.)

    (c) Frigidaire FPIF3093LF, which seems to be a decent range for about $1700. (BTW, Frigidaire is a division of Electrolux). CR's membership surveys show GE/Hotpoint electric stoves as reliability champs witho 4% and 6% defect ratea. Frigidaire, by comparison, is significantly higher with a higher, 10% defect rate for electrical stoves. Not sure how that affects induction stoves because there are no breakouts for induction stoves. Some reviews on other forums and vendor sites. Reviews are are mostly very positive. Nobody seems have posted here at GW about the Frigidaire induction range, though. It has a different layout and a larger oven than the more expensive ELectrolux/Kenmore corporate brandmates. No performance rating from Consumer Reports, yet.

    (d) GE will (sometime soon) be releasing the GE Profile PHP915 induction range which seems to be a slightly less-feature rich version of the PHP/PHS925 models which have been very highly rated here on GW and which are Consumer Reports' highest rated stoves. Not clear when this stove will reach the market. Some sites have said Marhc and others have said August.

    For induction ranges in the $2k to $3k range, the choices currently are:

    (a) GE Profile PHP925 (freestanding) and PHS925 (slide-in) which are very highly thought of here.

    (b) Samsung NE599NOPBSR which is available in Canada, but not on the US side of the border. There have been a couple of postings about quality control problems here.

    (c) Kenmore freestanding and and slide-in induction stoves (made for Sears by Electrolux) and pretty well thought of although there were some quality control problems with the intial production runs a couple of years ago. Mostly postive reviews since then, but not many reviews.

    (d) Electrolux Wavetouch EW30IF60IS freestanding range. Been inproduction for several years and mostly pretty well reviewed although Consumer Reports testing seemed to downrate its oven functions.

    As hollysprings and fori suggest, you have a more choices if you can go with a separate cooktop and wall oven. There are numbers of such combinations that will cost less than $3k, assuming you've got the electrical wiring already in place to handle the higher demands of separate units. Some combos may cost less than $2k. My kitchen electrical would not readily accomodate the power needs of a separate cooktop and oven, so I did not research this approach when I was recently shopping for a new stove. Again, though, the suggestion to cruise through AJ MAdison is good one for finding your options and getting a handle on pricing.

    >>>"What about combining a good gas range with a smaller induction hob?"<<<

    It certainly can be done for less than $3k or even $2k -- heck, maybe even less that $1k --- depending on what you have in mind as as a "good" gas range and what did you have in mind for a "smaller" induction hob and how you want your kitchen laid out.

    A small hob might mean one of the portable hotplate models like the Max Burton/Athena, Aroma, or Vollrath models. These are hotplates. These run from under $100 to around $250. They'll give you speed of adjustment and low level simmering. But, as Yebo said, it's still only hot plate. No really rapid boiling or the other "magic of high power induction.

    Or, you can get 240v induction hobs from the likes of Cooktek. They can be had in drop-in versions (i.e., a mini induction cooktop that drops into a cut-out on a countertop like any other smoothop cooktop, only smaller. They can be had in self-contained "portable" hobs. They look like Incredible Hulk verisons of hot plates. (BIIIGGG!!!) I used a a Cooktek unit for a while and it would heat a cast iron pan hot enough to melt lead. (That's roughly 620F, IIRC). More than enough power to do all the high-heat induction magic. They are made for commercial applications so they are tough and and dead-bang reliable. A single burner costs around $750, so as expensive as some decent gas stoves. Because they need a 240v outlet, these units are not really portable in any sense that most of us would recognize. But maybe that's what you want?

    This post was edited by JWVideo on Wed, Jan 16, 13 at 2:15

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    clipped on: 03.05.2013 at 06:31 pm    last updated on: 03.05.2013 at 06:31 pm

    RE: What's the proper way to judge counter/backsplash, cabinet co (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: davidahn on 02.07.2013 at 06:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I posted a reply to your other thread but this thread is more appropriate for my reply, so here it is:

    If they look very different from evening to morning, your lighting is probably warm white (3000K) vs natural daylight 5000-6500K (if overcast). If your counter only looks good in warm white light, scrap it because it will look horrible during the daytime (can't really change the color temp of the sky). Choose one that looks good in the daytime and change your bulbs to daylight white bulbs, about 5000K. This will ensure consistent perceptual color. I personally love the color temperature of my "bright white" LED bulbs, about 4500K, not too warm, not too cool.

    Incidentally, you mention photos and editing; digital cameras are heavily affected by the white balance of your lighting.

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    clipped on: 03.02.2013 at 09:44 am    last updated on: 03.02.2013 at 09:44 am

    RE: Anyone use Quartzite Counters? (Follow-Up #14)

    posted by: partst on 01.22.2008 at 03:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

    fisheggs is correct "Quartz counters usually refer to man-made materials that have some amount rock/minerals with some sort of binder." Most stone yards group granite and quartzite some what together. Quartzite is harder than most granite. Dose not etch like marble, is not porous like some granite but looks a lot like marble. It's all very confusing when you first start looking for stone counter top material.

    I didn't know anything about quartzite. All I knew is what I wanted. I wanted a marble look with no hassle and happened to find the right color, look when I found the White Fantasy. Some where there is a thread and stonegirl answers all these questions. Don't know if it is still around. Try a search for stonegirl!

    NOTES:

    Difference between granite and quartzite.
    clipped on: 02.28.2013 at 05:12 pm    last updated on: 02.28.2013 at 05:13 pm

    RE: Is your countertop soap dispenser a test of patience? (Follow-Up #10)

    posted by: may_flowers on 01.22.2013 at 06:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Mine's been great. It's a Kohler K-1895 and costs around $60. It's got a 16 oz. bottle that we fill with Dawn about every two months. We use it for hands and dishes, so I expected to have to refill more often than that.

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    clipped on: 02.25.2013 at 10:34 am    last updated on: 02.25.2013 at 10:35 am

    RE: What did you introduce to your GC that impressed them? (Follow-Up #38)

    posted by: lee676 on 02.19.2013 at 08:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Cree's 4" and 6" LED disk lamps that look to all the world like standard recessed lighting, but are so thin and cool-running they don't need to be installed in a recessed housing can, just a slim electrical junction box, like the one holding up your surface-mounted ceiling light. Allows recessed lights to be installed in places they couldn't fit before because ductwork or other obstructions got in the way.

    Sold at HD under their "Commercial Electric" brand.


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    clipped on: 02.19.2013 at 09:07 pm    last updated on: 02.19.2013 at 09:08 pm

    OK, so upper corner D-shaped cabs are a fav of mine (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: Bellsmom on 02.19.2013 at 10:48 am in Kitchens Forum

    I think we all come out of remodeling with some favorite storage discovery. I agree with your decision to wall off the blind base cab in favor of more drawers, but I do question that the black holes in D-shaped upper corner cabs need to be a problem.

    I think you might reconsider the upper corner cabs. I had a 15'' deep D-shaped upper corner cab and the shelves were indeed cavernous and inaccessible.

    Below is a link I posted to my solution. The super susan shelves are a wonderful solution, much better than I expected, and that corner cabinet now holds a huge amount of absolutely accessible ''stuff''.

    I don't know the floor plan of your kitchen, but even though you are gaining a huge amount of storage space (as I did), we TKO folks always need more.

    So, 3 considerations based on two of my pet ideas:
    1. Have 2 extra adjustable shelves made for the upper cabs. Most upper cabinets have lots of wasted VERTICAL space and/or stacks of unlike items that are hard to access. More shelves can eliminate this.
    2. Use 15'' deep upper cabs over counters where you will not do extensive prep. That extra 3'' allows so much more storage.
    3. D-shaped corner upper cabs with susans on every shelf. Be SURE the cab maker fits the susans properly to use ever inch of the space.

    (If I remember correctly, my 15'' corner cabinet is actually a 26'' square with the front corner cut off. The susans I put in are 24'' susans. That means that each of the four shelves hold just short of 4 sq. feet of stuff for a total of a bit less than 16 sq. feet of absolutely accessible storage in that one corner.)

    Here is a link that might be useful: Using ever inch of upper cab storage

    NOTES:

    Good info.
    clipped on: 02.19.2013 at 03:30 pm    last updated on: 02.19.2013 at 03:30 pm

    RE: Can you tell me the pros/ cons of a leather finish on granite (Follow-Up #13)

    posted by: Bellsmom on 02.19.2013 at 12:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I agree with the comments above. I have both leathered and polished surfaces in two different granites. The leathered is easier to clean.
    One big difference, not a disadvantage, is that the leathered finish is lighter than the same granite in a polished finish would be. Not as much so as honed, but definitely a shade lighter than polished.

    NOTES:

    Something new to me to remember.
    clipped on: 02.19.2013 at 03:18 pm    last updated on: 02.19.2013 at 03:19 pm

    RE: Closing off a blind corner (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: jakuvall on 02.14.2013 at 07:52 am in Kitchens Forum

    "wasted space" a lot of what goes on when people select corner options is purely emotional-" the space is there I want it"
    A pie cut susan takes up 12" of frontage in each direction. Two 32" shelves inside give you about 1750 sq in of shelf space.
    Block the corner- takes up 3" frontage in each direction. Add the extra 9" (18 total) to cabinets that are already there- lets say drawers or rollouts- 3 in each direction. 9" x x 20" deep x 6 drawers= 2160 sq inches of shelf (albeit shorter in height)

    Think your winning there.

    I regularly calculate real shelf space and what fits where for clients.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 02.14.2013 at 03:32 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2013 at 03:32 pm

    RE: Who Still Has Formatting Issues? (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: writersblock on 02.12.2013 at 08:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Island, in windows use the printscreen key and paste into a document in some program.

    On a mac press command+shift+3 for the whole screen, or command+shift+4 and drag over part of the screen. The screenshot appears on your desktop as a png file named after the time it was taken.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 02.12.2013 at 11:13 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2013 at 11:13 pm

    RE: Is Sub Zero fridge worth it? (Follow-Up #9)

    posted by: plllog on 07.17.2011 at 05:07 pm in Appliances Forum

    I ended up not getting SZ in the end because of sizes available and a couple other factors--got Miele instead--but I grew up with them, and most people I know have them. Yes, if you care about the best quality of chilling, the high end fridges are worth it. My old, grad school Kenmore was a wreck when it left but it spent a couple dozen years chilling. That's not the question. The question is whether things freeze on the top shelf, whether you can make use of all the space, whether the crispers crisp, whether the fridge smells get in the ice cream, whether everything in the freezer has to warm up so that the fridge can be frost free causing freezer burn, whether the produce goes bad immediately or takes weeks, whether the milk is exactly the right temperature because the difference between 36 and 38 is huge, etc., etc.

    All fridges will keep things cold. A top quality fridge will keep things just right.

    NOTES:

    Good to keep in mind!
    clipped on: 02.12.2013 at 01:04 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2013 at 01:05 pm

    RE: Show me your faucets, please... (Follow-Up #4)

    posted by: Autumn.4 on 02.05.2013 at 04:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Hi-my faucet is the Delta Addison Pull down 9192-DST...can't remember if it's arctic or brilliant stainless. It does not show spots and is more of a brushed stainless finish. So far so good and would definitely buy it again. It's one of my favorite things. :)

     photo IMG_0516_zps20ca985b.jpg

    This post was edited by Autumn.4 on Tue, Feb 5, 13 at 16:54

    NOTES:

    Like this faucet.
    clipped on: 02.05.2013 at 10:39 pm    last updated on: 02.05.2013 at 10:39 pm

    RE: How to choose pendant lights to provide enough lighting (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: davidahn on 02.05.2013 at 07:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Pendant lights are accent lighting, not task lighting. They look best with 40-60W bulbs, but as they are not directional (downward), they won't be great as task lighting. Also, pendant shades look best with warm white (3000-3500K) bulbs, while the best task lighting is near daylight (5500K, though I really prefer about 4500K). I would recommend can lights (pot lights if you're a Canuck) over the islands. I've seen many decently lit kitchens that have no general lighting because island lighting usually spills over onto the floor and reflects off the island and floor, lighting the ceiling.

    Also, remember that the darker your surfaces (counters, cabinets, flooring), the more general lighting you need because light will be absorbed rather than reflected.

    NOTES:

    Good advice to remember for our reno.
    clipped on: 02.05.2013 at 10:36 pm    last updated on: 02.05.2013 at 10:37 pm

    RE: Richelieu Undermount Sink Clip (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: Angie_DIY on 02.04.2013 at 01:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Or you could use the Sink Setter.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Sink Setter

    NOTES:

    Great idea.
    clipped on: 02.04.2013 at 04:41 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2013 at 04:41 pm

    RE: Richelieu Undermount Sink Clip (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: willtv on 02.04.2013 at 10:57 am in Kitchens Forum

    While those brackets may be a good solution, I can only speak to how our sink is mounted.
    Our installers siliconed the sink to the underside of the granite and then attached shelving brackets to the inside of the sinkbase cabinet to support the sink.
    Here are a few pics.

    Right side

    Left side

    Sink from above

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 02.04.2013 at 04:34 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2013 at 04:34 pm

    RE: OK, speaking of cabinetry quotes (Follow-Up #4)

    posted by: jakuvall on 01.28.2013 at 09:04 am in Kitchens Forum

    aliris- Nice of you to be concerned. Doing quotes comes is just part of the job. Most of us know that the average closing rate for walk-ins is around 33% nationally. So don't feel bad about it. Think about it as you are giving the KD an opportunity to make some money- we love "leads":)

    I work with retainers so I encourage folks to shop before deciding. I have between 8 and 16 hours invested in a job before I am willing to accept a retainer. The client has seen several layouts and has gotten solid ball park pricing on the most likely layout: in this it is $X, unless you do something rash it won't cost more than $Y, or less than $Z. They have hopefully compared us to others.

    The only obligation I expect from shoppers for my investment of time, simple courtesy... tell us once, you've decided, who did get the job and why we did not. A phone call is the best, email is better than nothing. It amazes me how many people won't even return a phone call.

    How well the shopping process works for you, has a lot to do with how you go about it.

    For best results make a list of what is important to you: Value, Quality, Price, Amenities, Service, Reliability, Design, Layout, Style, Installation Process. Be specific i.e. Quality alone is pretty broad so break that down.
    AND have an honest budget.

    Then go over the list and prioritize it. Decide if there are any things that are "deal killers" In the course of conversation tell them the top 3-5 things your looking for, any design "musts", what you will base your decision on, any deal killers, and your budget.

    If you don't tell them then the KD will make assumptions. These may be inaccurate but will none the less determine how they work on your job if they don't have anything else to go on.

    In the early stages both client and KD are cautious. Clients want the best arrangement they can make, have heard horror stories, few have done this before, it is a big deal to most.
    KD's have had plenty of folks wasting their time and any experienced KD has had more than a few nightmare clients. The KD also has to make a living and maximize their time.

    The clearer everyone is about what they offer and what they expect the better.
    Try to relax and have fun. It's kinda like dating- sometimes good sometimes not so, meet some great folks that your sorry to see go, meet another who is the right one, most folks are happy when it is over.

    IMO who you work with is more important than any specific brand if you want the most for your money.

    NOTES:

    Excellent advice!
    clipped on: 01.29.2013 at 01:24 pm    last updated on: 01.29.2013 at 01:25 pm

    RE: Granite Countertop experience (Follow-Up #8)

    posted by: srosen on 01.26.2013 at 09:50 am in Kitchens Forum

    Testing-when looking for and purchasing granite it would be wise to do the lemon test.
    By squeezing out some lemon juice on a sample of stone your are interested in will tell you the porosity of the stone and also if in fact it has any acid sensitivity.
    Even though granites are acid resistant there is a possibility the processor used a resin or dye to enhance the granite. While the resining of slab has become more common and accepted using dyes are not.The difference is resins will hold up to normal use. The dyes are sensitive to acids and can be degraded by common household acids such as acetic,citric,etc.There isnt a way to repair slabs that are dyed and have failed.
    The lemon test is a good way to make sure you know what your buying.
    As far as sealing goes if it is porous seal it using a quality sealer from a reputable company.
    Dont think of the applying it in terms of coats. Think more about applications. It takes a sealer 24 hours to cure. What this means to us is that first you get an idea of how porous your stone is by doing either the lemon test or just use water.
    You apply the sealer on a manegeable area say 3-4 feet wide and let the product sit keeping it wet for up to 15 minutes or so. The surface if it is porous will darken as the sealer enters the stone(dont worry it will lighten as the carrier evaporates). Then using paper towels(I like bounty)remove all traces of the sealer so the surface is dry to the touch. Overlap where you left off and countinue until the entire surface has been done. Repeat the process again then wait 24 hours and do the water test.
    Puddle up a palm sized puddle of water and let it sit for 10-15 minutes. If it no longer absorbs the water your surface is sealed. If you still getting absorbtion you will need to repeat the process.
    Some stones like kashmir white and other extremely porous stones may never stop absorbing liquid to some degree.
    Hope this helps.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 01.28.2013 at 10:16 am    last updated on: 01.28.2013 at 10:16 am

    RE: Counter height (Follow-Up #3)

    posted by: liriodendron on 01.24.2013 at 07:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Raising a counter is not usually the solution for rolling out dough - usually it's recmmended to lower the work surface so you can lean down and put the weight of your upper body onto the dough to ease the work.

    I think your KD is confused. Of course I have no idea how tall you are, but unless you're 6 feet plus, 39" sounds too high to me.

    But you can work this out easily for yourself.

    Working with your current counter, lay various thicknesses of boards flat on the floor in an area in front of where you work. This will functionally lower the height of the counter relative to your body. Start with simple 1 inch thick boards. Then add more boards in graduated steps, up to about 3" thick. If any of this is making a difference you'll know pretty quickly.

    You can also try to raise the counter top by adding stacked work surfaces on top of the present counter. To keep things from sliding about lay a layer of that squishy rubbery mesh grid used for lining shelves underneath the layers. It comes in rolls at a store like HD or Lowes. You don't need much, nor do you need 100% coverage of the layers, just enough to keep it from sliding.

    While you're at it, consider other atypical work surface heights including your burner-level height, the depth of the bottom of your sink and the height of you main prep/chopping surface.

    While some people point out that a highly customized counter heights may be an issue on resale, that may or may not actually be a problem. It kind of depends of your market.

    For my family we have carefully investigated this for both cooks and figured out which heights work best, and how to adapt to contradictary needs. One thing we plan on using is pull-out (well kick and release, actually) platforms that can be pulled out from the toe kick area to change the relative height to adjust for the short user. In contrast for the much-taller user who needs higher surface for chopping during prep we will simply add an extra thick butcher block cutting board that lives in slot just below the prep area.

    One thing we both found useful was raising the counter at the cleaning zone about 3.5" and thus raising the floor of the sink higher than is typical. (And we don't have one of the extra-deep sinks, just a normal 7.5' deep.) It's amazing how much of a difference it makes when handwashing, which is all we do.

    HTH

    L.

    NOTES:

    Do these things when considering multi height counters.
    clipped on: 01.25.2013 at 10:54 am    last updated on: 01.25.2013 at 10:55 am

    RE: Cork floor (Follow-Up #19)

    posted by: CallMeJane on 01.18.2013 at 05:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

    When I first started looking at cork, I got a sample of floating cork from Lowe's. Per another poster's recommendation, I left it submerged in a glass of water, only for a few minutes. Granted submerged is an extreme situation, however my results would deter me from floating cork. Not only did the middle particle stuff swell, but the outer cork was warped too. Before the water damage, it seemed like a solid piece, minimal scratching etc.
    I got samples from AmCork's tiled cork, though they appeared flimsy (and Im still worried about how they will do installed in terms of being easy on the knees and back), I did my submerge test on a sample lasting 2 days. Not a thing suggesting water exposure. Then I started dumping oil on it when I was frying, to mimic my messy sputter frying...nothing. The dent I was able to put in with my nail was barely there after a couple of days.
    Im still not 100% sold, but given the other options on back/joint friendly material, I may have to risk it.
    Regarding the plank look, you may not be able to get the long plank look, but AmCork does have various shapes and sizes...an of course you can cut them to whatever width you want, as I said, length may be a compromise for the look.
    I do very much like labbie's look.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 01.21.2013 at 02:47 pm    last updated on: 01.21.2013 at 02:47 pm

    RE: Is 30" too wide for a 4 drawer base cabinet? (Follow-Up #14)

    posted by: oldbat2be on 01.20.2013 at 09:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I don't know if you have this anywhere else, but this is one of my favorite things in the kitchen. This is to the left of my baking area, and a 3 drawer stack. Lovely to have the storage.

    We have 2 33" 3-drawer stacks. Measurements of drawer fronts: 6, 10.5, 12".

    We do not have upper cabinets near the dishwasher so need to store plates and glasses in lower cabinets. We love this setup.

    In the island one, we have Saran wrap, baggies, napkins in top drawer.

    Dinner plates, salad plates, soup bowls, stack 2.

    Bottom level: Tupperware, misc.

    Stack to right of cleanup sink:
    Silverware on top, glasses in middle, serving bowls on bottom.

    NOTES:

    Good pics/ideas to remember when planning.
    clipped on: 01.21.2013 at 11:36 am    last updated on: 01.21.2013 at 11:37 am

    RE: Favorite apps for iPad to use in kitchen? (Follow-Up #30)

    posted by: writersblock on 01.18.2013 at 11:17 am in Kitchens Forum

    >I haven't figured out if it is possible to back up on this iPad keyboard w/out erasing to make corrections.

    To make corrections when you've typed on beyond the letters you want to change, put your finger on the typo and hold it there. A magnifying glass will appear showing you a larger view of where the cursor is. When the magnifier is visible you can slide the cursor around till it's just to the right of the mistake. Then just backspace over the wrong letter(s) and retype.

    NOTES:

    Important info I don't want to forget!
    clipped on: 01.18.2013 at 11:52 am    last updated on: 01.18.2013 at 11:53 am

    RE: Wood counters, wood cabinets, wood floors--too much? (Follow-Up #9)

    posted by: ellendi on 01.16.2013 at 12:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

    It's all in how you do it. If the colors are too close than you get the "cigar box" effect. I have learned on GW that when you do woods together there should be at least a two point shade difference.
    Everything is according to taste, but you do want to avoid doing something that even you will realize is a mistake.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 01.16.2013 at 10:34 pm    last updated on: 01.16.2013 at 10:34 pm

    RE: Stone Information and Advice (& Checklists) (Follow-Up #40)

    posted by: buehl on 10.21.2008 at 05:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Sink Undermount Options

    There are pros & cons for each type of reveal:

    • Positive Reveal. The sink shows; granite cutout is slightly larger than sink

      • Pros: Easier to clean b/c you can see the gunk and can easily wipe it off (it only gets nasty if you leave it there)

      • Cons: Silicone (caulk?) is visible, but if they use clear you won't see it when it dries

    • Negative Reveal. The granite overhangs the sink; granite cutout is slightly smaller than the sink

      • Pros: You cannot see the gunk buildup or silicone

      • Cons:
        • You cannot see the gunk to clean it.
        • Dirty water/food can splash up & under where you cannot see to clean it. It's difficult to see underneath w/o leaning way over & into the sink.
        • Dishes/glasses have been known to break b/c when you lift them out near the edge of the sink the dish hits the stone counter & can break (or, if the dish wins, the counter could chip...but I'm not sure how likely that is).

    • Zero Reveal or Flush. Sink & granite are flush or even; the granite cutout & sink are the same size

      • Pros:
        • Easier to clean b/c you can see the gunk
        • No platform over or under for the gunk to collect

      • Cons:
        • More difficult to do perfectly
        • Silicone is visible, but if they use clear you won't see it when it dries

    You will find proponents of all three types of reveals here...but in the end it's what works best for you.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 01.13.2013 at 06:20 pm    last updated on: 01.13.2013 at 06:20 pm

    RE: Silgranit sink reveal--what you have and why you like it (Follow-Up #4)

    posted by: a2gemini on 01.10.2013 at 08:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Cathy - when the template guy asked which reveal - I said "huh" - So, I went to GW and posted and found people were very opinionated one way or the other and very little middle ground.

    I went for the negative reveal - but wish I had done positive - it just makes the sink seem a bit smaller. DH liked the negative and he had very few things he made comments about so I didn't want to shoot him down....

    If you search GW - there is a great discussion and one person had a picture and pointed out the grunge factor - they all have potential grunge but in reality - I wipe mine down when I drain the sink and nothing is growing that I can see.....

    Here is a link when I asked the question
    http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0414122722861.html

    Another thread
    http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0701230626695.html

    And my all time favorite - where the gunk lives....
    http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0920592124293.html

    NOTES:

    Good links and sink reveal info.
    clipped on: 01.13.2013 at 05:39 pm    last updated on: 01.13.2013 at 05:40 pm

    RE: Would you buy your Silgranit sink again? (Follow-Up #12)

    posted by: grlwprls on 01.10.2013 at 10:41 am in Kitchens Forum

    But make sure they install the drain with silicone NOT putty. Putty will stain the sink from the oil base of the putty. Make sure your plumber knows this...but be nice (and gentle). Members have had plumbers leave in a huff when this was mentioned to them.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 01.10.2013 at 10:45 am    last updated on: 01.10.2013 at 10:45 am

    RE: Thoughts on Pantry Pull-Out Cabinets (Follow-Up #27)

    posted by: ajc71 on 01.04.2013 at 03:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

    If you are doing a piece of hardware for the pull out, Kessebohmer is the best you can buy (in my opinion)...I am a cabinetmaker and that is what we install in all of our kitchens, it is a little more money then the rev-a-shelf (Compagnucci)brand.

    I will not install anything but the Kessebohmer system, the cheaper versions are always falling out of adjustment and are not anywhere near as smooth

    NOTES:

    Pull out info to remember!
    clipped on: 01.04.2013 at 06:21 pm    last updated on: 01.04.2013 at 06:21 pm

    RE: purging linens, dishes, objet (Follow-Up #8)

    posted by: hilltop on 01.01.2013 at 11:11 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

    Like dawn8b I've had to clean out several homes through the years and it gets old sorting out things that other people "just had to keep".

    First step, ask yourself if the item is something you use or enjoy on a regular basis, has great monetary value or that holds deep sentimental value (something with an important story behind it and good enough quality that you'd be proud to show or share it with others). If not, then get rid of it. I have a defined amount of storage space that I'm willing to fill. I try to keep it orderly and organized. Once the shelves are filled or items start to block the walking area it's time to sort & purge. Pesky1 makes a good point to think of how others will benefit from items that you can donate.

    Second step....if you're having a hard time disposing of an item then mentally separate yourself from it. Here's how it works for me..... Someday I will die and someone will be challenged with the task of going through my things. I imagine it will be my daughter or possibly one of my sons, maybe my husband. Then I ask, is the item at hand something they will want or that I feel demands their time to try to dispose of? If the answer is no, then I get rid of it. If I'm not willing to call them up right now and help sort for a week why should I expect them to do it for a week after I'm gone.

    At some point you may throw away something you want back, but that'll be one very small percent compared to the rest of the items you'll be so glad you got rid of.

    NOTES:

    Excellent advice on purging!!
    clipped on: 01.02.2013 at 05:56 pm    last updated on: 01.02.2013 at 05:57 pm

    RE: For those of you who entertain lots...refrigerator question (Follow-Up #9)

    posted by: romy718 on 01.01.2013 at 05:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I am in the middle of the planning stage of a kitchen remodel...I have been a lurker for about 2 years. I had planned to have a 36" integrated refrigerator with 2 freezer drawers on the bottom and add 2 refrigerator drawers to my island. This would have given me 18.8 cu ft. of refrig and 6.9 cu ft of freezer space. I recently decided to do a refrigerator armoire look with two 27" Subzero 700 TCI units, refrigerator on top, 2 freezer drawers on the bottom of each unit. This will give me 20.4 cu ft of refrigerator space and 10.2 cu ft of freezer space. I was afraid the 36" unit and 2 refrigerator drawers was not going to be enough freezer space. If you like the look of 2 drawers on the bottom (instead of the columns), SZ also has 27" units with 2 drawers on the bottom that can be all refrigerator or all freezer.
    Good luck!

    NOTES:

    Something to consider.
    clipped on: 01.01.2013 at 09:42 pm    last updated on: 01.01.2013 at 09:42 pm

    RE: Does Anyone Here Who Went Induction Regret Your Choice? (Follow-Up #19)

    posted by: jxbrown on 11.27.2012 at 09:34 am in Appliances Forum

    I have a stand alone portable burner for the pressure canner. I speed the process up by filling it with boiling water heated on the you-know-what.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Waring Portable Burner

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 01.01.2013 at 06:37 pm    last updated on: 01.01.2013 at 06:37 pm

    RE: Does Anyone Here Who Went Induction Regret Your Choice? (Follow-Up #13)

    posted by: JWVideo on 11.26.2012 at 01:30 pm in Appliances Forum

    Sandra_zone6:
    Induction is actually more efficient in the kitchen than 80% and gas may be less than 40% efficient. Power ratings (KwH for electric and BTU-Hr for gas) are about energy consumed. The US DOE says that induction burners put at least 84% of their input energy into the pot. Some manufacturers adertise that their units are rated at 90% efficiency. The efficiency of gas burners is variable with 40% being the high end. Depending on factors such as pot-size, burner-size, burner grate designs, and altitude, gas burners often drop as low as 33% (the rest goes into the kitchen as waste heat.) So, your point is even stronger.

    Of course, while induction is hands-down the most efficient use of electricity for cooking, we are not talking about "green energy." When you factor in production and transmission activities, neither gas nor electricity turns out to be any more green than the other.

    joc6820
    >>>Unless you must have the look, or you really want to turn knobs, I don't see the argument for gas anymore. Maybe there's some ultra gourmet dish that will turn out more perfectly with gas, I don't know.<<<

    I might have agreed with this six months ago, but that was before I started comparing actual stoves I might buy. By going through the process of comparing stoves and actually having to buy one, well, that taught me that there still can be plenty of arguments for having a gas stove.

    I do agree that some of the arguments about gas vs induction have seemed a little silly at times, particularly the neo-Luddite claptrap about high-end gas stoves being necessary for ultra-gourmet cooking. There is no such thing as an ultra-gourmet dish that will turn out more perfectly on gas. Well, except for those people who want ultra-gourmet roasted/charred peppers on a stovetop or, maybe, ultra-gourmet s'mores. ;>)

    But just as I would say that there is no reason to not consider induction as choice (except for those who do not have ready access to a sufficient 240v circuit), so also I would say that there no inherent reason to automatically reject gas stoves.

    I do think that almost everybody who buys an induction stove is happy with induction cooking. They might not be happy with their particular stove or cooktop but the things that make them unhappy are rarely induction itself.

    BUT, there still are plenty of reasons why somebody might find that they prefer stove A (which happens to be gas) over stove B (which happens to be induction). Personal preferences go well beyond the choice of knob controls over touchpads.

    Again, I want to emphasize that I'm talking about choosing between real stoves which have attributes beyond having gas and induction burners. Those other attributes can wind up mattering in different ways to different people. I cited the control knob thing as an example of something that will be unimportant to some folks, interesting to others, and really crucial to still others. Besides the example of control designs, here are some other considerations which may shift preferences towards one stove or the other:

    (a) Cooktop space: do you want to be able to run four large pots at once and be able to put any pot, anywhere on the cooktop? For example, I do about 12 or 14 events a year where it is handy for me to run, say, two 12-inch skillets and two large diameter stockpots on a 30-inch stove (which is the cooking appliance I have to run in my small kitchen). When I looked at stoves in my budget range, I found one gas stove (a pro-style range) which allows me to do that. There were two induction stoves in my budget range that met my other requirements, but both were freestanding ranges whose backsplashes crowded the cooktop. Clearly, this kind of cooktop space is not something that everybody will want or need. But, if you do want it, as I did, then this is a factor that will favor gas stove A over induction stoves B & C.

    (b) How you feel about long term durability and repairability? Induction stoves run through proprietary electronics which give them lots of features. However, most of us cannot fix much of anything that could go wrong and we all know that circuit boards and high-heat can be problemmatic. The long term durability of the current proprietary circuit boards (and the long term availability of replacements) is just not known. I am not saying this makes induction a bad choices;only that we do not yet have the track record to reassure those folks for whom this is a concern.

    OTOH, many (if not most) gas stoves and cooktops use standardized, simple, durable and mature designs with reliable components which are readily available from local parts supply warehouses. Many homeowners can do their own repairs. For those gas and DF stoves which have electronics running the oven, a failed oven controller will not take down the whole stove. You may still be able to use the cooktop. Obviously, this may be of less concern if you have a kitchen large enough to separate the cooktop and oven(s), but not everybody does. Equally obviously, there are some models of gas stoves where everything is run through a controller whose failure takes down the whole stove. The latter two points bring me back to the need to look concretely at actual stoves. For those bothered by the uncertainty, a simple AG stove may be preferrable to induction.

    (c) Do you run large canning kettles? You may not be able to use them on certain induction stoves whose manuals forbid pots over a certain diameter. (Some makers advise that efficiency is served by using pots with diameters no more than 1" greater than the burner diameter, but say you can go greater if you want to. Others may say going over that diameter may damage the cooktop. Other makers may tell you that running two large canners could be excessive weight for the cooktop or could otherwise damage the stove. You do not have those kinds of problems with gas stoves (or coil-burner electric stoves, for that matter.) Again, this will be a concern for some people and not others. If it is a concern, it may favor the gas stove over the induction one.

    (d) Do you want to run a large, rectangular stove-top griddle? Some induction stove and cooktop manuals forbid spanning burners with a large griddle. Others have burner arrangements that make running a large rectangular griddle infeasible. But, then there are the GE induction stoves (freestanding PHB925/915 and slide-in PHS925) which have two 8" diamter burners aligned to permit bridging and GE will tell you that you can do so. Samsung's NE597NOPBSR has twin burners that can be linked and run as a single 9" x 18" burner for rectangular griddles, roasting pans and other other very large pots. (LG has an induction cooktop that also does this, and comes with its own griddle). But GE, Samsung and LG models start at $2k and go up from there. If you are working with a $1500 stove budget, this factor may favor gas stoves over the induction stoves (Maytag, Whirlpool and a Samsung NE595) which are in that price range.

    (e) What are the relative costs of electricity and gas in your particular area? For me, who lives in town with electricity supplied at 11.5 cents/KwH by a large regional utility conglomerate, the difference between the cost of running induction and gas stoves will be small if not trivial. Not so for my rancher friends who are served by a rural electric coop for whom "deregulation" has resulted in electric rates of 35 to 40 cents per KwH.

    (f) Do you live in an area where extended power outages are a problem and, if so, do you have convenient back-ups and alternatives for cooking? Some do, some do not. For those who do, having induction is not a problem. For those who do not have ready back-ups (say folks in tall buildings in NYC) there have been a lot of postings about this in the wake of Sandy and Athena, a factor that for many of them now favors gas stoves.

    (g) There is no question that induction burners put less heat into your kitchen, but the importance of this fact varies. This factor will be important to folks who live in a hot climate in a house with central air conditioning, It will be a good deal less important to somebody who (like me) lives in the Northern Rockies where we commonly have 8 months of winter and few homes have central air conditioning.

    This is a short way with a potentially very long list but I think it points out considerations that may warrant buying a gas stove over an induction one.

    Now, to go back to the point of the original question, I think what the OP is looking for is the experience of persons who for some reason did not like induction after they bought an induction cooktop or stove. She would like to hear (and I think it would be interesting to find out) what it was that they did not like. When you know their reasons, you can decide how applicable or inapplicable those reasons are to your own situation. It may be that somebody regrets after having been left "power-less" in the wake of Sandy/Athena, a reason that may or may not be important for the OP.

    Or, it may be that nobody here will express regrets and the only way to find out will be a long thread of postings from folks with no regrets.

    This post was edited by JWVideo on Mon, Nov 26, 12 at 19:34

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 01.01.2013 at 06:34 pm    last updated on: 01.01.2013 at 06:34 pm

    RE: Pocket door ib Pantry (Follow-Up #3)

    posted by: marcolo on 07.31.2012 at 11:48 am in Kitchens Forum

    NOTES:

    pantry door idea worth checking into.
    clipped on: 12.31.2012 at 10:50 am    last updated on: 12.31.2012 at 10:51 am

    RE: Please don't take my head off--pic help (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: gr8day on 12.30.2012 at 11:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

    At what point do you have trouble? I am so computer challenged and sort of accidentally figured it out and now can do it easily. I'd be glad to help if I can.
    Here's how I do it:
    I send a picture from cell phone to photobucket, they assign you an e-mail address to make that happen
    When the photo appears I click on it and then out to the side there is that HTML code, click on that and it will change color sort of for a nanosecond and say "copied"
    then I go back to the message I want to insert the photo in then
    go to "edit" on the tool bar, click, in the drop down menu and hit "paste" then it prints in the message a really long line of numbers and characters but this is your photo ~you will see the photo when you:
    Click on "preview message" if you like the way it looks then you
    Click on "submit message"
    In other words,
    I have to open two windows. The first one is Gardenweb where I have already started a message and have the cursor stationed at the window where I am typing the message ready to insert the photo. Ok while this window is open and ready for a photo paste I open the second window and go to photo bucket, choose the photo, click on the HTML cold, it copies it and then I click back over to the garden web window and click the cursor for the big long link to appear which becomes the picture when you click "preview".

    To post a link go to the box under your message "Optional Link URL: type in your link and be sure to use http://www etc. then whatever else is involved in the link address. Works like a charm. You will name the link in the next box.

    I know that photobucket was changing over to beta and I could no longer upload photos to Gardenweb. I switched back to the old way and now everything is fine.

    NOTES:

    helpful directions
    clipped on: 12.31.2012 at 09:07 am    last updated on: 12.31.2012 at 09:08 am

    RE: Undercounter freezer - which one? (Follow-Up #13)

    posted by: davidro1 on 09.08.2011 at 11:47 am in Appliances Forum

    point #1 may be all true, but it may need a little tweaking too.

    Between the two separate compartments in a fridge freezer combo is a separation wall, which is as thick as any freezer wall even though it only separates the freezer from another refrigerated compartment. So, to begin with, this insulated separator TAKES UP space, which has to come from somewhere, as there is a finite quantity available inside the box. So it is an absolute certainty that there will be less space available.

    Secondly, Never Believe as "fact" the nominal Cubic Feet that manufacturers publish. These numbers they publish are rough, like orders of magnitude. They are not the physical reality numbers that you get when you measure the inches inside all by yourself. The numbers they publish are not lies or mistakes. They are just rough indicators. Some manufacturers have marketing people who use these numbers more loosely than others. In the commercial refrigeration market, the numbers have to be close to the truth. In the residential market, the numbers are very far off.

    Multiply the height width and "depth" in inches and you get the volume in cubic inches. Divide by 1720 to convert to cubic feet. Measure it yourself. Use a tape measure.

    NOTES:

    Importance of measuring cubic feet.
    clipped on: 12.30.2012 at 03:53 pm    last updated on: 12.30.2012 at 03:54 pm

    RE: My bulb is not lit - need nook lighting help! (Follow-Up #30)

    posted by: red_lover on 05.21.2012 at 08:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Here's mine

    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    Again Kichler Lacey collection

    NOTES:

    Love this light!
    clipped on: 12.29.2012 at 01:30 pm    last updated on: 12.29.2012 at 01:30 pm

    RE: What are your shallowest drawers? (Follow-Up #4)

    posted by: GreenDesigns on 12.27.2012 at 08:01 am in Kitchens Forum

    Kitchen cabinets are designed as a system to have the horizontal lines formed by the drawers be contiguous around the room, and then integrate fully into the heights of the tall and wall cabinets. While you can do a drawer stack with multiple 2" drawers here and do the next one with all 6" drawers, it create visual disharmony and dissonance unless you use divisions that will create some similar horizontal lines. All drawers is not all about function, even though it's the most functional choice. If you don't have any uppers planned, you also need a large walk in pantry. The most ergonomic storage in any kitchen is in the range from your knees to about 6" over your head. With no uppers, you give up a lot of that space range and that needs to be made up for with auxiliary storage elsewhere.

    NOTES:

    Very helpful info.
    clipped on: 12.27.2012 at 10:12 am    last updated on: 12.27.2012 at 10:13 am

    RE: Diabetic Cooking (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: localeater on 12.19.2012 at 05:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Hi Christine, Sorry to hear about your friend. I am mom to a T1 son who was diagnosed at age 3, now 11. There are no good cook books, but I do think Cooking Light is a great resource.
    Two important things: I urge you to tell you friend to get diagnosed by an endocrinologist specializing in Diabetes. Many times doctors without a lot of experience with the disease will see an adult with high BGs and call it T2, because T2 used to be called "Adult Onset" and T1 used to be called "Juvenile". The diseases are actually very different as T1 is an auto immune disease(frequently triggered by Strep, though this is still a suspected and not proven link) and T2 is not. T1 is the inability to make insulin, T2 is typified by insulin resistance and they must be treated differently. There is also a Type 1.5 AKA as LADA (Latent Autoimmmune Diabetes of Adults) which is very frequently misdiagnosed as T2 and must be treated differently than T2. An accurate diagnosis is not based on Blood GLucose numbers alone, there would have been other blood tests, to measure GAD antibodies, and Serum Insulin levels(a type 2 would have had sky high insulin levels, a type one negligible).
    Secondly, cooking for a diabetic is often thought of as low carb cooking, but it is not. Low fat is also very important. Frequently upon diagnosis, your insurance will cover at least one visit to a Registered Dietician. This would be a great thing for your friend to take advantage of.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 12.19.2012 at 10:54 pm    last updated on: 12.19.2012 at 10:54 pm

    RE: Let's talk switch plates (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: cat_mom on 12.11.2012 at 01:36 am in Kitchens Forum

    We used Arnev.com for the wood switchplates; unfinished cherry that we had finished by the cabinet manufacturer, and natural maple (birch?) that was finished, but not stained (they were used inside the cabinets):

    Pics:

    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    We also had stone switchplates made for our bathrooms by Columbia Gorge Stoneworks. Pricey, but we felt they'd add a nice finishing touch to the bathrooms (we saved "here" so we could splurge "there").

    Pics:

    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    NOTES:

    More good sources for switchplates.
    clipped on: 12.11.2012 at 10:17 am    last updated on: 12.11.2012 at 10:18 am

    RE: Let's talk switch plates (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: deedles on 12.10.2012 at 05:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

    My thoughts are that Switchhits.com is a great place to start, if you haven't been there already. Tons of switch plates. I've ordered from there a few times now and have been very happy with the quality of my items. Seems like they have a decent selection of about everything.

    NOTES:

    Good thing to know.
    clipped on: 12.11.2012 at 10:17 am    last updated on: 12.11.2012 at 10:17 am

    RE: I'm Lost - Kitchen Disaster=Remodel (Follow-Up #13)

    posted by: CEFreeman on 12.10.2012 at 10:41 am in Kitchens Forum

    I had a fire, too. The smoke damage is incredible, no matter where the fire actually happens. I lost 4 pets; I hope you and yours are all safe.

    I cannot say enough good things about my insurance man and company. How often do you hear that!? But they are fantastic . Sadly, my DH, GC by license and contract was the contractor on the job and he bailed on me in 2007. I've been rebuilding on my own ever since.

    The good news about poverty is that it's given me a lot of time to think, reorganize, build, replace, and just plan improve (ok, change) my kitchen.

    My layout pretty much remains the same, but the little things happen. However, in my future, for example, when I can save for soapstone counters, I'll also be taking out the window over my sink and making a counter height one.
    I'm going to rearrange another whole run of base cabinets to move a trash pull-out next to the stove where I prep. This involves uninstalling 16' of cabs, shifting them, reinstalling them, all underneath the BB countertop I built. That example is to demonstrate why one should take it slowly. I didn't think any ideas would work for me, then prepping and dumping stuff into the waste basket I'd pulled over, I had a brain storm.

    My suggestion to add to the mix is small but I found important. Wherever you end up installing your outlets, use quad outlets. The 2-plug outlets are outdated in the face of electrical usage of this decade, let alone century. I also put it 220 (the ones with the little, horizontal slit on them?) for a heavier appliance demand. Already I'm wishing I had more outlets by the stove. And I barely cook alone!

    Oh! And remember you don't need 14000 different outlet boxes along your counters, etc. They make a huge variety of boxes where you can have them all neatly tucked into one box. On one side of my sink I have 2 outlets, a UCL switch, and the switch for the peninsula pendants. The other side is the light over the sink switch, GD, and 2 outlets. All neatly tucked into a box that holds 4 things. They make light switch plates with as many as 12 switches in it, so don't let anyone tell you they're not made. .

    Along with Ikea, since you guys sound incredibly handy, I'd suggest looking at building your own boxes. You could purchase your own face frames and doors from Barker (doors), or someone like Brian at the Cabinet Joint .com for the package of face frames and doors together. You'd save a TON of money and get exactly what you want.

    I've taken a bunch of cabinets and knocked the face frames off to replace them with beaded inset, which makes my heart sing. [lol] No kidding! I've also retrofitted base cabinets to take drawers, which makes my life SO MUCH EASIER!

    So there is my $.02. Hang in there and just realize there's no prize for finishing fast. Finish well.

    NOTES:

    Info on outlet boxes.
    clipped on: 12.10.2012 at 11:49 am    last updated on: 12.10.2012 at 11:49 am

    RE: 36'' CD Fridge Owners: More fridge or more pantry? (Follow-Up #20)

    posted by: scrappy25 on 12.08.2012 at 09:42 am in Kitchens Forum

    Is it too late for a 42" cd or built in fridge and a 24"pantry? The 24" pullout shelves will probably hold nearly as much as two side by side 15" pullouts (practically the shelf width will be about 3 inches less than the two 15" shelves combined, not 6 inches less), and there are definitely microwaves that will fit into 24" width. The 42" cd fridge is about the same internal space as a 36" full depth fridge.

    NOTES:

    equal inside storage of 42"cd and 35" full depth fridge
    clipped on: 12.08.2012 at 04:07 pm    last updated on: 12.08.2012 at 04:07 pm

    RE: Does granite quality differ between granite yards? (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: colorfast on 12.08.2012 at 02:13 am in Kitchens Forum

    williamsem, I also researched this for about a year here before installing my granite last summer. Everything you said was accurate, to the best of my own informed-consumer knowledge!

    Here's one stone quality trick: My granite installer had a guy that loved to talk stone. In my contract it said that when you get the edges cut and polished, the colors may not be quite the same as the top. I asked him why. He said that a number of slabs have some dye on that top layer injected in with the resin, and that won't obviously be on the side edge. He indicated they were slabs that come from China. I wasn't too happy to hear that dye was being put on granite. I mean, that was the beauty of it. It's all natural, right?
    My own granite edges were consistent with the colors on the top, so I think I escaped the dye issue. I have attached an article on this point.

    Also, if you do feel good about your stone yard, ask about who they like for installers. The guys who work there longterm know. I do think it matters that your installer's been around a while. Granite is a natural product; once in a while someone manages to scratch it or chip it, or stand on it to change a light bulb and crack it. The company who's been around a while will come and try to help you fix it.

    A quality installer has computerized measuring machine to spec the dimensions of your walls and determine the cuts of granite for each counter. The quality installer will encourage you to view the finished plans to see how they plan to lay out your stone before cutting. The quality installer will do nearly all the cuts in the shop before coming to your home. They will NOT make those cuts on your lawn or in your home, raising large amounts of fine, gritty dust. Likely they have a large computerized cutting machine, as I recall it's a C&C machine. This cannot be used on certain style edges though.

    Just please have your faucets ahead of time. Have the contractor measure the diameter of the inner water pipe and the outer housing. Some faucets give very little wiggle room. Be anal on this point; you won't be sorry.

    Also, my granite installer was really picky on color matching the epoxy put in the cracks. It looks great.

    HTH

    Here is a link that might be useful: Dyed granite fades over time

    NOTES:

    Info I need to remember.
    clipped on: 12.08.2012 at 03:50 pm    last updated on: 12.08.2012 at 03:51 pm

    RE: Does granite quality differ between granite yards? (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: williamsem on 12.07.2012 at 10:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Oh! Oh! I think I got this, let me try! I just did the granite thing recently.

    Rock is rock. Slabs that seem to match are just from the same "lot" all mined together at the same time. When one lot is gone, the next can look very different. So having one slab from one lot and one from another results in two of the same granite types looking different. That's also why you can see a sample that doesn't match the current stock. With some varieties, I would see something I liked, and then the shop would say their current stock has recently been coming in more beige than white, or similar. Depends on the location in the quarry and which quarry.

    Slab come in 2 cm and 3 cm thickness. If I remember correctly, 3 cm is more popular on the east coast and 2 cm on the west coast, but either is fine. A 3 cm slab can have a slightly larger overhang before needing extra bracing.

    The finish could be as simple as dust in the slab. One place I went had a bucket and squeegee on hand to clean off any slab they pulled out for me since the slabs were in the same pen warehouse as the fabricating machines. I was surprised how much of a difference that made. I'm not entirely sure on this part, but I think they shine the stone up before install too.

    The big difference is in fabrication skill. Search a little here for the install horror stories. You need to make sure they are good at templating, and if you have a seam, that you have seen their seam work. Also discuss seams ahead if you have a stone with a lot of movement. They should also be able to apply an even edge finish and consistent overhang.

    OK experts, how'd I do? Did I learn it right? I hope so, I already made a deposit...

    NOTES:

    Good info.
    clipped on: 12.08.2012 at 03:49 pm    last updated on: 12.08.2012 at 03:50 pm

    RE: Kitchen Ceilings (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: badgergal on 11.17.2012 at 03:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I along with many other GWers have 8 ft ceilings with all the cabinets to the ceiling there are been several threads about it in the past. Here are are couple of them

    http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0712595421594.html

    http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0621423910595.html

    Also attached a link for more threads from a google search

    Here is a link that might be useful: GW google search 8 ft. Ceilings

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 11.17.2012 at 11:26 pm    last updated on: 11.17.2012 at 11:26 pm

    RE: What's hidden in your sink base? A mess or state of art work? (Follow-Up #10)

    posted by: Poohpup on 11.17.2012 at 05:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I've got a 36" sink, garbage disposal, instant hot tank, filtered water, plumbing for DW and faucet. My contractor was great and made sure everything was nice and tidy. The instant hot tank is back in the left corner behind the filtration system. I tuck my NeverMT in the right corner behind the garbage disposal. The sink has a right rear drain which helps a lot. My trash/recycling pullout is a cabinet over. The only thing I store in this cabinet is cleaning supplies.
    Photobucket
    Photobucket

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 11.17.2012 at 11:25 pm    last updated on: 11.17.2012 at 11:25 pm

    Granite Countertop Cleaning from a Stonecare Professional

    posted by: Stonexpert on 05.14.2011 at 01:31 am in Cleaning Tips Forum

    The easiest method is always to watch someone else do it. If you have been gifted with the task then no matter how sophisticated or expensive the products you use the techniques are all very similar. Dish detergent is still the best, yes, the same stuff you use everyday for the dishes you eat from. Streak-free dish detergent is economical, simple and safe to use, and will get the results you seek.

    Basic Cleaning:
    A dish-rag soaked in hot sudsy water should be used to saturate the granite surface. Allow a few minutes for the hot soapy water to work its magic. Scrub with same soapy rag shortly thereafter to remove any build-up or stubborn grime followed with a rinse or two of hot water from a soap-free rag.

    For Heavy Cleaning:
    Further agitate the soaking-wet surface with a coarse cloth or mildly abrasive ScotchBrite style pad, (red or blue pads only) rinse as usual. Stains can be removed by cutting open a granular automatic dishwasher capsule and gently rubbing a small amount at a time into the stain and repeating until successful.

    Buffing:
    After any cleaning regiment and after your stone has dried some streaking may still remain. Streak-free dish soaps seem to minimize this. Use a clean cotton rag, microfiber cloth, or a white color ScotchBrite pad to buff away cleaning product residue that remains.

    Maintaining Polish:
    Periodic buffing when the surface is dry with an extra-fine(000) steel wool pad followed with a slightly damp clean cloth to pick up steel wool particles left behind. A spray and shine liquid wax like "Zep" buffed with a clean cloth will add some glossy brilliance.
    Granite Myths and Truths:

    To Seal or Not to Seal?
    If water does not bead on the surface and instead slowly absorbs and produces dark areas which a hair dryer will remove then your stone is not adequately sealed.
    All untreated granites will absorb water and oils at different rates and are vulnerable to staining no matter how dense, this includes Black Galaxy, Ubatuba, Absolute Black and similar dark colored stones. The good news is that granite staining is not permanent and can be reversed. Even better still, granite sealing technologies are readily available which penetrate your stone to protect and prevent these problems from occurring in the first place. Your granite may have been factory epoxy-coated from the slab producer which will prevent sealers from penetrating. The finished edges and underside will still be susceptible to absorption and should be sealed. Sealers differ from manufacturer to manufacturer, as do their quality and molecular ability to sync with your granite's unique porosity. For best results a knowledgeable professional in your area should recommend the appropriate sealer for your particular stone and perform the initial sealing as well as successive sealing or instruct the homeowner in how-to applications.

    Granite Wannabe?
    Not all granites are granites. All hard igneous type stones are generally grouped with granites which should rightly contain adequately high percentages of quartz and certain minerals to be considered a true granite by definition. Special considerations are to be applied for stones outside of the granite family in terms of cleaning and preservation methods. If you are wondering why your "Quartz engineered stone is not as glossy as natural granite this is because it is a composite of pulverized quartz gravel and epoxy plastic adhesives. The coloring pigments added to the epoxy and the crushed quartz matrix cannot produce the same color and light magic that natural stone can. Plastic maintenance products and techniques are to be used for this type of surfacing.

    Granite Vulnerability?
    Vinegar, lemon juice; acids, as well as corrosive alkaline agents will not harm your non-coated granite. Granites are generally chemical resistant and even in extreme exposure can be easily restored to their original state. This is why granite is the first choice for monuments and commercial building exteriors.
    Please note that some granite processors now coat their granite slabs with epoxy/urethane sealing technologies which may require special cleaning and maintenance considerations.
    Enjoy Your Natural Granite!! info@rmstoneworks.ca

    NOTES:

    good info
    clipped on: 11.10.2012 at 10:52 am    last updated on: 11.10.2012 at 10:52 am

    RE: Oh Please, Help Me Pick a Fridge! (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: deedles on 11.07.2012 at 08:24 am in Kitchens Forum

    As far as the over fridge cab, is the top window trim going to infringe on that cab area? Can't tell from the pic but it almost looks like it extends into that area? If it did, couldn't you just box in the fridge (if you want) and have an open shelf over the fridge for display? Unless you need the storage, of course.

    I've decided to go with the Frigidaire all-fridge and then either a 20" wide undercounter freezer that Summit makes. or the 24" freezer drawers by Summit, too. Depends on the final width of the room after gutting. (trying to put 10# in a 5# bag over here, lol)

    We'll have a deep freeze in the basement and I decided that having to go counter-depth fridge/freezer just cuts down too much on fridge space. If I had your situation, I'd pick whatever full depth fridge fit my space, had good reviews and appealed to me, I guess.

    Forget trying to get a consensus on refrigerators, too many opinions/experiences and it'll make you crazy. Although, there seem to be some real lemon brands out there to stay away from.

    Have you checked out AJ Madison for reviews, etc? Helpful website, IMO. I find the customer reviews of the various items really helpful.

    Good luck!

    NOTES:

    all fridge/freezer drawers
    clipped on: 11.07.2012 at 11:41 am    last updated on: 11.07.2012 at 11:41 am

    RE: Reality bites - dealing with budgets (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: buehl on 10.26.2012 at 12:07 am in Kitchens Forum

    Check these threads:

    Scrimp on this, Splurge on that....: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg101324514831.html

    Where to splurge and where to save??: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg080040367553.html

    Scrimp and Splurge - Where'd you hold back, where'd you go nuts?: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0507102221365.html

    NOTES:

    Read and read again and again!
    clipped on: 10.29.2012 at 09:22 am    last updated on: 10.29.2012 at 09:22 am

    RE: Is running vent hood ducting through cabinets OK? (Follow-Up #10)

    posted by: jscout on 10.22.2012 at 10:19 pm in Appliances Forum

    I ran my duct across about 4-5 feet and then up into the ceiling between joists and out to the back of the house. I have custom cabinets and the cabinet maker built the cabinet with the soffit. This was my idea and they didn't charge extra to do this.

    Here's a picture where it looks like I ran the cabinets to the ceiling. That's a 45 inch cabinet run.

    But when you open the doors, you see the soffit. Behind the soffit, the duct runs across and turns up into the ceiling before the end of the cabinet run. The cabinet maker suggested leaving a very narrow depth shelf up top. The cabinets are 15 inches deep and the duct is 10 inch round. I told him not to bother.

    NOTES:

    Maybe something we could do with our vent.
    clipped on: 10.23.2012 at 12:32 am    last updated on: 10.23.2012 at 12:33 am

    RE: Layout Gurus, I need help! (Follow-Up #6)

    posted by: buehl on 10.20.2012 at 06:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I use MS PowerPoint. I found online graph paper, saved the image, and pasted it into a PowerPoint file/presentation. I then created templates for things like sinks, ranges with hoods, cooktops with hoods, refrigerators, etc...different sizes and configurations.

    Now, when I work on a layout, I start with the template.

    Here are some links for free graph paper:

    http://www.printfreegraphpaper.com
    http://incompetech.com/graphpaper
    http://incompetech.com/graphpaper/plain
    http://mathbits.com/MathBits/StudentResources/GraphPaper/GraphPaper.htm
    http://donnayoung.org/math/graph-paper.htm
    http://www.waterproofpaper.com/graph-paper/

    I also linked to a thread below that I started over 4 years ago when others asked for help creating layouts.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Thread: Modifying A Poster's Layout

    NOTES:

    Helpful ideas on graph paper etc.
    clipped on: 10.22.2012 at 09:37 am    last updated on: 10.22.2012 at 09:38 am

    RE: Williamsem: Just checked out the Globus cork floors! (Follow-Up #4)

    posted by: luckymom on 10.21.2012 at 08:15 am in Kitchens Forum

    I can address the dog nail issues with cork-3 dogs (80 lb giant schnauzer, 20 lb terrier & 10 lb brussels). All go to the groomer every 3 weeks and have nail trims. They come home with small to huge rough spears that can draw blood in a single swipe. My cork stood up to that for over 7 years (I'm thinking 10, but suffer from old age CRS syndromme) We had the click stiff with 2 coats of poly over the factory poly. HIGHLY reccomend that in a kitchen. It does need to be redone occasionally- which we didn't do- couldn't figure out what to do with the dogs for the 24 hour dry time... Only issue we ever had was under the old stool DH loved to sit at- had those rubber "boots" on the legs that would cut thru & need to be replaced. That spot was a bit worn, otherwise the floor looked great and felt wonderful.
    I've tried almost every floor around over the last 25 years- tile, vinyl, Pergo, real wood, etc., in my kitchen. The one I loved was the cork. This re-do, I keep looking at the cork again (and those Globus colors!), but I've spent so much extra already (and I really want new carpet in the master BR)- so I'm hesitating. wonder how long I can stand bare concrete in the kitchen?

    NOTES:

    cork floor & dogs
    clipped on: 10.22.2012 at 09:29 am    last updated on: 10.22.2012 at 09:29 am

    RE: Durability of Princess White Quartzite (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: sochi on 08.27.2012 at 11:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Elee325, my quartzite is Luce di Luna or quartzite Bianca, it has a strong linear pattern to it. It is from Brazil, as are most quartzites that have arrived on the market lately I think. I've been using mine for over two years now, no etching or staining at all. It is sealed with a silicone based product. The thread I referred to earlier was actually an email exchange. He found that his quartzite was darkening from water, he didn't report etching, my mistake. His counter was originally sealed with a water based product. After I told him what mine was sealed with he switched to a silicone product and had no further issues with his counter.

    There is an old thread where I noted the name of the product I used, I will see if I can find it.

    Some people with a science background have claimed that if a quartzite etches it must be marble mis-identified as quartzite. I have no idea, but we have a few reports here on GW of quartzite etching, while many like me have had nothing at all. It is difficult to explain. Search for an old thread started by me called " what's up with quartzite", it is an interesting read.

    Just found the old thread where I discuss the product used on my quartzite, here it is:

    Hi again - I heard from my fabricator. They used an industrial silicone-based sealant from GranQuartz, called 413S. I'm not certain that it is available to individuals (as opposed to fabricators), but it might not hurt to ask your fabricator about it. I've pasted in a link to the product on the GranQuartz website. Here is a link that might be useful: Silicone Stone Sealant

    NOTES:

    check this out.
    clipped on: 10.15.2012 at 09:24 am    last updated on: 10.15.2012 at 09:24 am

    RE: Shingles vaccine? (Follow-Up #22)

    posted by: addyson_anders on 09.26.2012 at 02:32 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

    At the bottom is a link to the CDC's website that gives information about the Shingles vaccine. While there is no minimum age for receiving the vaccine, there are SOME people who should NOT get it because of illness, allergies, pregnancy, etc.

    Something you may not know but really need to remember is that Shingles is very contagious! If you have Shingles, you are contagious to anyone who has never had Chicken Pox or the Chicken Pox/Varicella Vaccine. (Babies don't get the vaccine until they are 12-18 mos old.) Here is a link with more info about that:

    WHEN AND HOW LONG ARE SHINGLES CONTAGIOUS

    I HIGHLY recommend every healthy adult (starting around age 45-50) get the vaccine if at all possible. I assisted a family practice/internal medicine physician for about 6 years and I saw so many people suffer severely with Shingles, especially the pain during and afterward. It can last a very long time, even after the blisters are long gone. Here is more info about that:

    MOST COMMON COMPLICATION - Postherpetic Neuralgia (Pain)

    One sweet elderly patient had Shingles in and around her left eye. It was really terrible and she eventually lost most of her vision in that eye. It was very sad to watch the progression.

    Again, I absolutely believe that every adult, based on the CDC's guidelines, should get the vaccine ASAP if they are in the financial position to do so.

    Hope this helps some.

    ~Addy~

    Here is a link that might be useful: CDC - SHINGLES VACCINE INFORMATION

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.29.2012 at 11:25 am    last updated on: 09.29.2012 at 11:25 am

    RE: Getting mildew out of color shower curtain (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: Fun2BHere on 09.15.2012 at 03:38 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

    Washable Fabrics

    Follow these steps to remove mildew stains from Acrylic Fabric, Cotton, Linen, Modacrylic, Nylon, Olefin, Polyester and Spandex. Most mildew stains can be removed during regular laundering if they are moistened beforehand.

    If a stain remains:

    Test fabric for colorfastness.
    If color doesn't change, cover stain with a paste of lemon juice and salt.
    On cotton and linen, make a paste from an oxygen bleach, water, and a few drops of ammonia.
    Let paste cover stain for 15 to 30 minutes.
    Flush thoroughly with water and launder again.

    I find Oxiclean will remove almost any stain. I had a white 100% cotton napkin with dried red wine stains. I had tried every remedy I could find. Finally, I stuck it in a bowl with a scoop of Oxiclean dissolved in water and let it soak overnight. The next day, the stains were completely gone. I don't know how it would affect color, however, so this remedy might be your last resort before throwing the curtain away.

    NOTES:

    Cleaning tips worth knowing.
    clipped on: 09.25.2012 at 11:24 am    last updated on: 09.25.2012 at 11:24 am

    Another retrofit: folding work surface

    posted by: Bellsmom on 09.24.2012 at 12:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I wanted to post one image of this for Marcolo, and decided to post more detail here.
    When my kitchen was finished, there was no good place to sit for marathon cutting and chopping events like the aftermath of someone gifting me with a bushel of fresh corn.
    This is my cheapo solution: it involves
    1. Folding leg brackets, like on on a cardtable
    2. Two stair spindles, $1 each from Habitat
    3. One cabinet side panel, $1 from Habitat (maybe to be replaced by a real chopping block.
    4. Two 1 x 1's to form a stabilizer over the front of the sink so the table doesn't slide.

    Here are pics of the table, both folded and in working position, and my constant companion, an 80 pound rescue labradoodle that makes me smile 100 times a day:
    Photobucket
    Photobucket
    Photobucket
    Photobucket

    This is a really easy project, and for me, a perfect solution to sitting surface adjacent to sink and pull out trash.
    Hope it is useful to someone.
    And Bell and I thank you GWers for all the good ideas we have used over the last two years.
    Sandra

    NOTES:

    Clever way to add surface work space.
    clipped on: 09.25.2012 at 11:16 am    last updated on: 09.25.2012 at 11:17 am

    RE: Finally finished installing Arabesque BS pics w/Quartzite (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: lynn2006 on 09.24.2012 at 02:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I am in love with your kitchen! I can't believe you and your husband and his talented friend renovated your kitchen yourself. It is so beautiful! I love the cabinets, the crown molding, the counters, the floors, the island and that gorgeous Arabesque Backsplash that I am now thinking I may want to use. Do you have a link where it was purchased at?

    For your window treatment, how about Sheer Horizontal Comfortex Blinds in either Champagne or one of their many whites. I used Champagne for my family room but I have BM Bone White walls so you may want their Snow color or one of their colors.

    If you keep them closed, they allow privacy but still allow light to come in and are beautiful and elegant and not as costly as the Hunter Douglas ones. They are not as nice as the Hunter Douglas ones but they can be bought online at half price and it cost me half price to buy them and have them installed by a place about 1 hour from here. But your husband is handy so he can install them.

    You can even get them in a gray color if you wish to add a little color to your room. This way you can turn them sideways for more light or raise them totally to have total light entering the room.

    NOTES:

    Like the Comfortex Blinds suggestion.
    clipped on: 09.24.2012 at 04:08 pm    last updated on: 09.24.2012 at 04:08 pm

    RE: My Blue Kitchen !! (Follow-Up #11)

    posted by: 2LittleFishies on 09.16.2012 at 08:17 am in Kitchens Forum

    Love it!!! We are doing yellow but aqua would have been my second choice so we're using some small blue/aqua accents as it looks great with yellow too : )

    Sherwin William Rainwashed and/or Sea Salt are great colors.
    Also, BM Woodlawn Blue HC-147 or Palladian Blue. They all have varying degrees of green/blue so you'd want to see them in your space.

    shkish did a lovely kitchen with an aqua island & walls-- If you end up you don't want to fully commit to all aqua cabinetry (a lot of work to change) that could be a way to use white cabs and just an aqua island or accent.. and then do aqua walls.

    http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg021903123416.html

    http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0613340911912.html?7

    However you decide to go about it, the kitchen will be beautiful!

    Good Luck!

    NOTES:

    note the colors
    clipped on: 09.16.2012 at 07:03 pm    last updated on: 09.16.2012 at 07:03 pm

    RE: Elkay sinks-good or bad? (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: lee676 on 09.15.2012 at 02:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Elkay runs the gamut from cheap stuff for the big-box stores to high-end specialty sizes, but they're all quite good. I think Celebrity is one of their more basic lines.

    I've always liked the LWR-2522R (shown here) or LWR-2522L (same but with drain in the back left corner), because the recessed drain makes it a cinch to dump excess waste down the disposer, and because putting the drain in the back corner means the drain won't be covered by the first plate you put into the sink, and because it also moves the disposer to the rear corner of the sink cabinet underneath rather than smack dab in the middle where it's in the way of everything. It can be ordered with one through five holes on the deck.

    Also consider a D-shaped sink without a full-length faucet ledge, just a hole on each corner, with the drain in the back center. These are very roomy despite fitting in the same size cabinet. Elkay also recently introduced a line of "Perfect Drain" sinks that don't need a flange around the drain when used with an Insinkerator-built disposer.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.15.2012 at 11:27 pm    last updated on: 09.15.2012 at 11:27 pm

    RE: Practicalities about counter height (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: rhome410 on 12.02.2010 at 07:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

    The guideline for the best working height is measured from 6" below your elbow when your arm is down with forearm bent up 90 degrees. That's why we have some lower counter areas in our kitchen...33' - 34" for baking counter (for seeing into mixer), for island (for kneading and chopping), and to each side of the rangetop (for prep and other). Our rangetop is actually lower than standard, too. It's great for the kids and me (I'm 5'4"), and it's still OK for my dh and ds, who are 5'11". The only counters at 36" are the cleanup run, and the breakfast counter.

    My dh built 36" vanities for our bathrooms, and I actually feel like they're too high.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.10.2012 at 04:15 pm    last updated on: 09.10.2012 at 04:15 pm

    RE: May be late to this tip for cleaning stainless but (Follow-Up #7)

    posted by: faron79 on 09.07.2012 at 11:42 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

    I've had Sheila-Shine in my ACE cleaning-aisle for ~ a year now.

    Lots of people like the Sprayway S/S cleaner though. Others swear by Weiman and Magic.

    WD-40 been around a looooonng time! I grew up in the 70's using it! It does OK on road-tar spots too.

    Faron

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.08.2012 at 12:24 pm    last updated on: 09.08.2012 at 12:24 pm

    RE: artisan 5 minute bread book reviews? (Follow-Up #31)

    posted by: stacy3 on 02.28.2008 at 10:43 am in Cooking Forum

    Hi Maggie, here is the recipe. There was also a link to a video somewhere...

    From Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day: The Discovery that Revolutionizes Home Baking by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoe Francois (Thomas Dunne Books, 2007). Copyright 2007 by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoe Francois.

    Serves 4

    Note: This recipe must be prepared in advance.

    1-1/2 tablespoons granulated yeast (about 1-1/2 packets)
    1-1/2 tablespoons kosher salt
    6-1/2 cups unbleached flour, plus extra for dusting dough
    Cornmeal
    In a large plastic resealable container, mix yeast and salt into 3 cups lukewarm (about 100 degrees) water. Using a large spoon, stir in flour, mixing until mixture is uniformly moist with no dry patches. Do not knead. Dough will be wet and loose enough to conform to shape of plastic container. Cover, but not with an airtight lid.

    Let dough rise at room temperature, until dough begins to flatten on top or collapse, at least 2 hours and up to 5 hours. (At this point, dough can be refrigerated up to 2 weeks; refrigerated dough is easier to work with than room-temperature dough, so the authors recommend that first-time bakers refrigerate dough overnight or at least 3 hours.)

    When ready to bake, sprinkle cornmeal on a pizza peel. Place a broiler pan on bottom rack of oven. Place baking stone on middle rack and repeat oven to 450 degrees, preheating baking stone for at least 20 minutes.

    Sprinkle a little flour on dough and on your hands. Pull dough up and, using a serrated knife, cut off a grapefruit-size piece (about 1 pound). Working for 30 to 60 seconds (and adding flour as needed to prevent dough from sticking to hands; most dusting flour will fall off, it's not intended to be incorporated into dough), turn dough in hands, gently stretching surface of dough, rotating ball a quarter-turn as you go, creating a rounded top and a bunched bottom.

    Place shaped dough on prepared pizza peel and let rest, uncovered, for 40 minutes. Repeat with remaining dough or refrigerate it in lidded container. (Even one day's storage improves flavor and texture of bread. Dough can also be frozen in 1-pound portions in airtight containers and defrosted overnight in refrigerator prior to baking day.) Dust dough with flour.

    Using a serrated knife, slash top of dough in three parallel, -inch deep cuts (or in a tic-tac-toe pattern). Slide dough onto preheated baking stone. Pour 1 cup hot tap water into broiler pan and quickly close oven door to trap steam. Bake until crust is well-browned and firm to the touch, about 30 minutes. Remove from oven to a wire rack and cool completely.

    NOTES:

    Sounds wonderful to try.
    clipped on: 09.08.2012 at 10:01 am    last updated on: 09.08.2012 at 10:01 am

    RE: Do I really need to book match my granite? (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: GreenDesigns on 04.17.2012 at 12:24 am in Kitchens Forum

    Granite comes in large blocks that is then sliced like bread. The polishing process polishes the facing surfaces, and leaves the rough surfaces touching. That way you don't have a rough surface against a smooth surface to scratch it. So, a big block will be R(ough)S(mooth)S-R-R-S-S-R-R-S-S-R-R-S-S-R-R-S-S-R. Basically, if a wholesaler buys enough of a block of a single granite, he will end up with several bookmatched pieces as each subsequent slice will be next to it's bookmatched slice. If you are dealing with a small fabricator, he may not have bought enough pieces to have bookmatched slabs, or if someone cherry picked the ones in the middle, the matched slabs may already be gone. But, any medium to large sized fabricator should readily have bookmatched slabs available with no issues.

    The other issue that will arise, and it's a BIG one, is the ability of a fabricator to do the seam well enough. This is where it's important to see past work and to not choose the lowest bid just because they are the lowest bid.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.06.2012 at 12:55 pm    last updated on: 09.06.2012 at 12:55 pm

    RE: Toekick Drawers (Follow-Up #14)

    posted by: hollysprings on 09.06.2012 at 11:00 am in Kitchens Forum

    I worked with a custom cabinet maker once to create an ADA accessible kitchen for a client in a wheelchair. We did the extra tall toekick needed by the chair, and then did the toekick drawers in that tall space. It actually worked out really well for storage for everyone who used the kitchen and I've often thought that it was an idea that some cabinet maker should take and run with to create their own universal access line.

    NOTES:

    A different take on toekick heights.
    clipped on: 09.06.2012 at 11:02 am    last updated on: 09.06.2012 at 11:03 am

    RE: Toekick Drawers (Follow-Up #12)

    posted by: aliris19 on 09.06.2012 at 04:02 am in Kitchens Forum

    I thought they seemed like a fantastic idea, aesthetically. That is from a no-waste standpoint.

    However my KD talked me out of it by pointing out they're basically just another set of drawers and cost is calculated at least for my kitchen, by number of drawers. If I was wanting more storage I'd rather have a bigger drawer. Most if not all of my cabinet stacks already had 4 drawers in them, so that was making it five. And that fifth was really small. Plus, I made my toe kick 3.5" -- I don't wear work boots in the kitchen and I saw no reason to install inflated toekicks; 3.5" has been plenty for us.

    I do love the idea of the things but I haven't missed em, especially knowing the cost. YMMV.

    Niftiest use of toekicks I've seen, apart from valuables-storage (say, silver) is as a step-up for the "height-challenged". That, I thought, was really clever and could definitely justify the extra cost in select locations. Another used the narrow drawer to store a step stool. But I liked turning the whole drawer itself into an actual step (though that's less portable!)

    I saw a picture of a drawer someone constructed that incorporated the too-short-drawer objection for the toe kick by making the drawer at the bottom itself have the toekick "bite" worked right into it. This looked really nifty and clever but as I thought about it, then how would you use that space at the front of the drawer? You'd get just the bottom "footprint" of the drawer's worth for storage and to use the forward bump-out you'd need some very specialized shapes.

    So on reflection I decided that wasn't going to use the space well either. For me, that's how it came to pass that I compromised on the toekicks that like you, I had originally thought were the bee's knees, in favor of shortened toekicks and 4-drawer stacks.

    So there's an example of a KD being negatory but maybe not utterly without cause.

    NOTES:

    New to me take on shortened toekicks.
    clipped on: 09.06.2012 at 11:01 am    last updated on: 09.06.2012 at 11:02 am

    RE: HELP Questions about canning ~ fruits, sauces, etc. (Follow-Up #3)

    posted by: liriodendron on 08.30.2012 at 06:14 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

    Don't worry about the tomato sauce, it just separated. Since it happened immediately it's no biggie.

    But I also recommend you don't use Williams Sonoma Art of Canning Book as your primary, initial reference. It has errors and plays fast and lose with current safe-canning guidelines. There are much, much better ones available. Once you've got more experienc with canning you'll be able to better evaluate the W-S recipes for critical safety points.

    Basic, but excellent is the current edition of the Ball Blue Book. It's also cheap.

    Putting Food By is also very good and the new edition in paperback is inexpensive.

    Any title by Linda Ziedrich (pickles, jams, etc.) is safe and accurate.

    Karen Solomon is good and more adventuresome.

    The new Better Homes and Gardens book: Can It! has some dubious procedures in it.

    Perfect Preserves by Hillaire Walden

    Pickled by Lucy Norris

    Small-batch preserving by Ellie Topp

    Putting Up by Stephen Dowdney (methods are NOT USDA approved for home use, but experienced canners can adapt)

    Well Preserved by Eugenia Bone (mostly OK methods, recipes very interesting)

    Well Preserved - small batch preserving by Mary Ann Dragan

    Put 'Em Up by Sherri Vinson (Ok, little beefs over technique but mostly sound)

    Preservation Kitchen by Paul Virant (Interesting, very esoteric recipes)

    Food in Jars by Marissa McClellan (author of extremely popular blog of same name; interesting rec. and good technique)

    That's probably enough to get you going with SAFE modern practuces and fab modern-style recipes (not your G'mothers boring old canned stewed tomoatoes!) There are many other good books - I have a huge collection. One word of warning there are still new books coming out with out-moded safety techniques for home canning (i.e. steam canning). Stay with the USDA guidelines at least until you get some experience. Also books from Europe have different acceptable canning methods. I read the recipes and convert them to US recs.

    Canning is a complete blast, and very addicting! There are also some great websites for canning, jelly, pickles. If you need links let me know.

    L.

    NOTES:

    Great canning books.
    clipped on: 09.01.2012 at 10:41 am    last updated on: 09.01.2012 at 10:41 am

    RE: Help! Granite countertop installation this morning... (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: buehl on 07.09.2010 at 12:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

    From Bill Vincent (Mon, Mar 9, 09 at 9:54)

    "... A lot of times, when this discussion comes up about sealing granite, I'll refer people to a page in that site that has links for two sets of tables-- one A-L, and the other, M-Z, listing the names of the more common "granites". One of the things they list on those pages is the absorption rate of each stone, and anything with less than a .25% absorption rate should NOT be sealed. ..."

    Granite lists - Explanation

    Granite lists on findstone.com - Table A - L

    Granite lists on findstone.com - Table M - Z

    NOTES:

    Important to know about granite!
    clipped on: 09.01.2012 at 08:56 am    last updated on: 09.01.2012 at 08:56 am

    RE: is a stainless steel back guard necessary? (Follow-Up #6)

    posted by: beekeeperswife on 08.31.2012 at 08:34 am in Kitchens Forum

    slightly ot here but, I found it odd that when ordering the range top, you had to pick which back guard you wanted. the island, the 8" (?) or the 24". They ALL had prices associated with them in addition to the range top.

    But the part that got me, was, we picked the 24" with the shelf. The rangetop came with the island trim. When it was installed they removed the island trim replaced it with the 24", and asked if I wanted it. I said yes. But why are they charging for the island trim if it comes with it?

    I know you aren't considering the 24" with a shelf based on your question, but I thought I'd post a picture for you anyway. I never knew how much I would love being able to throw things up on that shelf and pop a heat lamp on and keep them warm.

    Photobucket

    NOTES:

    Something to consider.
    clipped on: 08.31.2012 at 10:15 am    last updated on: 08.31.2012 at 10:15 am

    RE: Schock-Houzer Granite Sink vs. Blanco Silgranit (Follow-Up #7)

    posted by: echodante on 02.01.2012 at 12:20 am in Kitchens Forum

    I bought a Schock Cristadur D-150 waterfall sink in Magma (black) after doing 6 months of research on sinks. I have now officially seen every sink on the planet. The Latoscana electronic faucet is the perfect match for my sink. I talked to everyone who sells Schock and I even called Schock-Houzer. (I bought them both online at Wave Plumbing and they recommended the cool faucet to go with it) My friends go crazy when they see my sink and faucet. They want to play with it. Who knew that this was the best way to get my friends to do my dishes.

    When I found out that Schock actually makes most of the granite sinks for other brands on the market I eliminated the other brands. Then I was told that the new material used is superior and they are better, smoother, stronger, easier to clean etc.

    Here's some info that may be helpful from the manufacturer websites...

    Schock sinks have been very popular in Europe for over 30 years and they invented the granite composite sinks and manufactures 75% of the worlds granite sinks and actually make them for many of the leading brands of granite sinks. Houzer sinks partnered with Schock in 2011 to bring their best products to USA. The Schock sinks are the highest quality granite composite sinks on the market because they have improved the manufacturing process and have made their own branded sinks stronger, smoother and non porous and they have anti bacterial properties. The two new materials are superior to any of the other granite sinks as some of you have noticed by the smoother feel of them. That is the quality you are feeling.

    There is more info at the Schock Germany website or the Houzer website under granite sinks. CRISTADUR is the superior stronger material over the Cristalite+ that is an improved version of the traditional material used in the sinks manufactured for other brands. This is what the manufacturer says about Cristadur Sinks: The premium material that has an ultra-fine structure, resulting in unprecedented ease of care and featuring a dirt repellent effect (the dirt simply runs off). As well as all of the positive attributes of CRISTALITE+, CRISTADUR is silky smooth and wonderfully soft to the touch while offering maximum resistance to dirt and scratches.

    On the Houzer website click on e-catalog for the best information about these sinks. They also come in a lot of colors and there are sink drains and grates to match each sink.

    I use Gel Gloss granite counter gloss a few times a month to clean my sink.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Schock Houzer Catalog

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 08.24.2012 at 08:50 pm    last updated on: 08.24.2012 at 08:50 pm

    RE: cold draft coming in through Hood Vent... any ideas why??? (Follow-Up #9)

    posted by: davidro1 on 11.24.2008 at 02:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

    This is a common problem with all vent holes and fireplaces and it will be solved later this century. In terms of whole-house HVAC, these holes need to be dealt with and they aren't yet. My take on the problem. (I live in a cold climate.) Houses are more and more airtight, which is Step One towards optimal insulation against extreme cold (or heat). Then each vent hole becomes comparatively more of a problem. I think each opening should have two flappers, one at each end of the hole (i.e. outdoors and indoors). A single flapper is extremely leaky when air pressure ("wind") is pushing against it. Two thingies makes for more reasonable air pressure on the second one, less leak. Sounds like basic common sense to me, but no-one has ever integrated it into their product design or "standard" construction process. It's a recurring need in millions of buildings every year and everybody always makes it look like "'golly, we just noticed this." In buildings big and small.

    So you are not alone.

    -david

    NOTES:

    Remember this when installing hood vent!
    clipped on: 08.23.2012 at 12:38 pm    last updated on: 08.23.2012 at 12:39 pm

    RE: Done Finally! (Follow-Up #22)

    posted by: ladyshadowwalker on 08.16.2012 at 06:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

    wow thankyou I'm glowing now too from all the compliments! I sat there with a glass of wine just looking at it for about an hour!

    The details

    Granite -Espresso (remnant)

    Faucet Moen Neva (avail online ) Lowes has a similar one

    Backsplash - GBI Capri Collection porcelain - Lowes

    Floor( picked by my long suffering fiance who provided a ton of DIY ing-) American Olean 13" x 13" Torre Venato Sabbia Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile -Lowes special order.

    Hardware Amerock

    Cabinet and other refacing supplies - Barker Doors Windsor Hard Maple finished with oil based semi gloss varnish

    Hinges - Blum soft close

    UCL - White 60 LEDs 5050 SMD Light Under Cabinet Counter 12V (ebay seller metapark)

    Going out to dinner to celebrate LOL!

    NOTES:

    Like the faucet and granite.
    clipped on: 08.16.2012 at 09:52 pm    last updated on: 08.16.2012 at 09:53 pm

    RE: Sliding backsplash - has anyone used one? (Follow-Up #14)

    posted by: marcolo on 08.06.2012 at 09:01 am in Kitchens Forum

    To slide up, you either build out the cabinet or frame out an opening in the wall and install lots of blocking behind the cabs so the door can slide up into the wall. Might be easier to slide down behind the lower cabs--it's easy to pull cabs out.

    You could also alternate your sliding panels with very shallow surface-mounted cubby/shelving units on the backsplash for spices and such. Then the doors could slide sideways behind the cubbies.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 08.07.2012 at 11:03 pm    last updated on: 08.07.2012 at 11:03 pm

    RE: Sliding backsplash - has anyone used one? (Follow-Up #12)

    posted by: mrsmortarmixer on 08.06.2012 at 03:08 am in Kitchens Forum

    Do you want instructions for a automatic (hooked to electric and a control) or just a pull the string type?

    The electric type is run by a reversible motor, like automatic car windows. You'd need a wiring chart and the motor (usually $50-100+ depending on weight) as well as basic wiring parts.

    For a manual lift, metal or wood rails on either side of the backsplash to hold it vertical. Attach your string/cable/chain to the backsplash and attach a pulley at the top. Run your cable over the pulley and back out some strategically placed hole. Our small coop has a manual door with a cable through a pulley and we just tie it around a nail and untie it leaving enough cable that it doesn't spring back to the coop. And suddenly this idea comes to mind. What about the cord locks on blinds? You could easily retrofit that into the side or underneath a cabinet. The underneath would be an easy place to hide the lock and then you could run your string through the upper cabinet so it would be hidden. The just have a nail or pin that could hold the excess string out of the way.

    The only downside to either idea is that it would require you to build out your wall behind the wall cabinets. Depth would depend on your material.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 08.07.2012 at 11:01 pm    last updated on: 08.07.2012 at 11:02 pm

    RE: Eco-Friendly cabinets (Follow-Up #9)

    posted by: jakuvall on 07.23.2012 at 05:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Can't give you a definitive answer, on our end of the business it is as difficult as yours. I am typically suspect of most of the hoorah it's green based on past experience. What I do know is that certifications are something a company buys, there is no other way to get them. Sure if you don't comply you can't get it but if you do comply you still don't get it without the money and the paperwork.

    LEED or USGBC are the two standards for the BUILDING industry. Cabinets can only contribute LEED points, they are not in and of themselves certified.
    NOTE NEITHER LEED nor USGBC considers finishes or VOC's in allotting points.
    Also note that you get more LEED points using melamine interiors than wood, more for particle, flakeboard and MDF than for plywood. So the cabinets that I carry that have the highest LEED points possible (Saxton) are a particle board cabinet with melamine interior and sides, and foil doors. Not the most popular choice for many folks.

    FSC- applies does not apply to bamboo, there is no regulation for Bamboo or Lyptus. If you rummage around treehugger.org there is enough question about which is greener- managed domestic hardwood or bamboo. My personal opinion is domestic hardwood from managed forrests but others will disagree.

    I had one company (now out of business) that was able to ship an FSC certified cabinet (not just the wood) so long as delivery was within 500 miles of the factory. It took them 3 years to get the certification.
    Many companies use FSC certified woood when they can, but also use wood from smaller suppliers that have managed forests who do not have FSC certification (due to the expense and paperwork.) I have no objection to that though it becomes more a matter of trust. If you don't use FSC wood exclusively you can't use the logo.

    KCMA -ESP- Kitchen Cabinet Manuracturers Association Environmental Stewardship Program. This is the only environmental rating in the cabinet industry. When it started it was a rubber stamp. It is now siginificantly more difficult to obtaim. It considers 5 areas
    Air Quality in manufacturing; Resource Management- Process
    ;Resorce Management- Product; Environmental Stewardship, and Community Involvement.
    I consider KCMA ESP certification a minimum to carry a brand.

    VOCs and Formaldehyde- Not the same thing. Now any cabinet that is CARB2 certified (or better yet CARB 3) will have extremely low VOCs and Formaldehyde. However if you are allergic then you will want none. A lot of companies have NAUF particle and/or plywood available. ( I have the afforementioned Saxton in particle and QCCI in plywood, there have to be others) Fewer have No VOCs and I really don't know just what LOW VOC actually means so I'm skeptical.
    I spent a lot of years attempting to find a water borne finish that was equal to standard varnishes and to date I have not seen one. QCCI just came out with a no VOC oil finish that appears to hold up very well. I gave a sampe to a client and told them to abuse it as best they could- it came back looking like the one I didn't give them. I have not personally put it through a torture test though. It is a very nice finish but very limited in color options and on which woods it works. It is also dead flat so not for everyone.
    VOCs is the one place where a small shop has both an advantage and a dissadvantage. They can manage to use water bornes because of the small scale (though not as durable) OTOH if they use standard catalyzed varnishes they don't typically have the same kind of air treatment,filter, exhaust that a larger shop has.

    In the long run the issue comes down to reduce, reuse, recycle. Each of the certifications deal with those thing only in part. I'm not a Wood-Mode dealer, though I use to work for one. On those standards they apply but if your KD doesn't know how to explain that to you they should find out more. Many of the moderate sized brands (especially in Pennsylvania) have been doing those things as a matter of course for decades with no certifications.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 07.23.2012 at 11:00 pm    last updated on: 07.23.2012 at 11:00 pm

    RE: Anyone heard of Crystal Pearl granite? Pics (Follow-Up #9)

    posted by: vrjames on 12.10.2008 at 08:38 am in Kitchens Forum

    OK, graciemay, I shall try to be brief.

    I am not a geologistbut I do play with rocks all day. It is a great job.

    Quartzites are a fairly new material on the market. And tend to be quite pricey. Here is why.

    They are substantially harder and denser than granites. Therefore the tradititional gang saws could not cut them properly. They were first introduced about 6 years ago and were terrible. The material always had serious issues.

    Over the past few years new diamond wire technology has improved to the point that the materials can be processed to a very high quality.

    Just for example, a typical block of granite takes 12 to 24 hours on a gang saw to cut. A block of quartzite on a high speed wire saw takes 2 to 4 days. The material is that hard.

    Now, I referred to this as a "true quartzite" because there have been quite a few materials brought onto the market and sold as quartzites to get a higher price, when in fact they are not. A material that shows up on the GW regularly is called Super White, Andromeda White, we call it Cypress, and there are a few other names for it.
    It is not a quartzite, although it has some hard quartzite tendencies, it has soft spots that scratch and etch like a marble.

    The other major plus about quartzites is they have marble type appearances. Azul do mar, Blue Macubus, Sienna Pearl, Apollo, Capolovora, Kalahari, Bamboo Yellow, Bamboo Green are all prime examples of the vivid colors available.

    Hope that helps.

    James

    NOTES:

    I like his listed quartzites like Sienna Pearl, etc.
    clipped on: 07.18.2012 at 03:13 pm    last updated on: 07.18.2012 at 03:14 pm

    RE: A little bit of piece in my in-progress kitchen (pic) (Follow-Up #6)

    posted by: fouramblues on 07.17.2012 at 12:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Thanks for the kind words, everyone! Once I figure out where everything goes, there will be less counter clutter. :)

    tea4all, this isn't an official kitchen "reveal", so I won't put all the details in, but here are the main things you can see from the photo: Plyboo Havana strand bamboo flooring, Starmark cabinets, Windsor windows, Pottery Barn Barnard pendants, and EcoSmart 4" LEDs for the recessed lights.

    NOTES:

    Her floor!
    clipped on: 07.17.2012 at 07:52 pm    last updated on: 07.17.2012 at 07:53 pm

    RE: Kitchen finished! White cabs, quartzite, leathered black. Whe (Follow-Up #24)

    posted by: babs711 on 07.14.2012 at 05:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Wow you guys! I've been busy today and just logged in. I didn't expect all this! Thank you ALL so much!! We're having a few friends over tonight to boil some crabs and I've been sweeping little wool rig fibers and construction dust up for about half an hour. Ugh! My friend warned me about the weeks of construction dust aftermath. And these darned new rugs are killing me with the shedding! I'm answering questions below. Some things were asked about a couple of times so if it looks like I missed something it's probably answered somewhere! And again...thank you to every single person for your super kind words about our home. I still have some work to do but this is the fun stuff! Questions...

    Meangoose, the backsplash tile is by Settecento in the gray/green shade. It's clearly got tons of blue tones. I'm not sure why it's called gray/green.

    Tea4all, the flooring on the first floor is carbonized hickory 7" planks by UA flooring. We love it! We liked how the house was turning out before the floors were in but once they laid the floors, we were blown away. They warmed up the place so much. Even the builder and his workers commented on how much they loved them!

    Go_figure01, the kitchen isn't huge by any means. It's 12' on the kitchen side and 14' on the range side to the end of the fridge wall left of the cased opening. The entire length from window wall to the wall with the artwork in it across the room is 18'. The fireplace wall width is 17'. Our island is 4x7.

    The drawers are Electrolux refrigerator drawers. We got them because we put a counter-depth refrigerator in since you walk into the room right there. I knew we'd need the extra cold storage. Plus, it's nice to have things the kids need at mealtime near the table and my coffee and breakfast items near my coffee station. We're enjoying the drawers very much. We've been keeping juice, milk, half and half and creamers, egg beaters, sodas, and cold snacks like pudding cups, fruit cups, jello, etc in them. It's working out really well.

    Breezy, I'm glad you popped in. I love your kitchen as well! The hood! Goodness...I almost did an industrial hood. Then I went back and forth between this one and a straight option which would have been less. But this one called to me. So thank you! I love the way it came out and am glad we spent a bit more. The pendants are Currey & Company Regatta. I know a couple of GWers have them. I stewed over lighting for months but kept coming back to these. Our main paint color is BM Revere Pewter. In some photos it appears browner than it is. It's a great "greige"...not too beige, not too gray. It has just enough of both to work with lots of different tones. Our trim is BM Frostine. I chose it initially to work with our cabinetry color. It was the closest match. But once it was up in the finish and the light changes throughout the day, they don't really match but it works. I think on the wall, it's a closer match to something that falls between Simply White and Cotton Balls. Breezy, you're funny! Most of this stuff is from our previous house! The only things I've added are the barstools, rugs and the window seat pillows...maybe an accessory here or there. It takes time! I'm kind of type-A with my decorating. My friend didn't believe I didn't work with a decorator. I'm just like this. I wish I had training. I'd do it for a living! It's fun!

    The only bare clear shot I have of the quartzite right now is one I took when it was first installed. I can take another one later. Here's that one:

    Catlover5, I am LOVING the Riverby sink! It's the first time we've had a deep single bowl or a cast iron sink. It's great!

    Nini804, I went back and forth on both fridge models but decided I'd probably regret it if I didn't just bite the bullet and get the darned bar handles. I mean, we already blew our appliance budget, what was a few hundred dollars more?! Your kitchen was a huge inspiration to me, especially in deciding to not go to the ceiling with my cabinets but to do so with the hood. So thank you!

    Bee, the paint behind the bar and bookcases is BM Chelsea Gray at 75%. Thanks! I love your kitchens you've done! Thank you for coming to see mine!

    Red_lover: outside for you from a very bad angle. I need to get a better photo but here's one for now. Eventually, once I get pics of all the rooms, I'll post an update on the house building forum. The last I did was June.

    (that's the house numbers scratched out on the front)

    michoumonster, the chandelier, by pure coincidence, is also Currey and Company like the pendants. It's the Simplicity chandelier. I had the pendants picked out for some time and had a completely different chandelier by Arteriors delivered. It arrived damaged. After a huge ordeal, it was shipped back and I had to start from square one in picking out a fixture. My builder was about to kill me. I ended up with this which is nothing like what I was going with initially. I like that it's casual and not ordinary. Thank you!

    NOTES:

    Love her floors! Check them out.
    clipped on: 07.17.2012 at 09:45 am    last updated on: 07.17.2012 at 09:45 am

    RE: What is this thing in the middle of the hood vent? pix (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: trailrunner on 07.16.2012 at 06:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

    YOu need to look at Tradewind liners. That is what I have . I have used it very hard for over 6 yrs and it is the best around. And very reasonably priced as compared to other brands. I take 10 min once a week and clean the baffles. The 10" opening is where ALL hoods funnel the HOGS ( heat, odors, grease, steam) so that is not going to be something you will be able to change.

    We stir fry and regularly use our built in Miele deep fat fryer. If ever there was a good test of a hood we are it. I just wiped down the painted open shelves in our kitchen the other day , they are adjacent to the cooking area. They had not been done in at least 6 months. There was nothing but some dust.

    Our hood is 54 " wide and 1400cfm remote blower. Tradewinds has inline too. We are MORE than pleased with it. It meets all your criteria. PLease have a look at their website..linked below. If you have any questions please ask. c

    Here is a link that might be useful: Tradewind hood liner

    NOTES:

    Check on this hood vent.
    clipped on: 07.16.2012 at 07:02 pm    last updated on: 07.16.2012 at 07:02 pm

    RE: What's in your baking zone? (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: florantha on 02.09.2011 at 09:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I didn't make a thread on this, but I know I took photos of insides of three stacked drawers in my baking area in the last 3 months and posted them. They will be revised when the crockpots move out, but other stuff is pretty much permanently living there.

    My big thing is, as you probably know, pull-out work surfaces aka breadboards. I recommend a good-sized breadboard in the baking zone. Ours is 2 inches below regular countertop and accepts a stool for sitting. It's clean and ready for work, even when the countertop itself is not. Easier to bear down with rolling pin on it. Allows throwing flour around and I can put a waste basket below the edge and swoosh the waste right into it.

    I've grouped stuff in my baking drawers that I use frequently--sifter, rolling pin, baking powder, flours and sugar, measuring cups and spoons, cupcake papers, lotsa pans, stainless bowls. In my old kitchen, I had grouped the dry ingredients, raisens and such, shortening, and the sifter and the cookbooks in an upper, but all pans and bowls and mixer pieces and rubber scrapers were elsewhere, some deep into a place I didn't like going. I like having the stuff close at hand when the baking muse hits me--I'm baking more these days--fewer excuses and the work goes faster now.

    I now have 3 different utensil cylinders--one is for baking (mostly rubber scrapers), one for rangetop use (wooden spoons, whisk, spatulas), one for less-used awkwards (wok tools, meat lifter, ladle, masher). They are adjacent to the baking area, so I don't have to pull out a drawer at all to grab baking utensils. Spices same--very near baking area with most common ones to be mounted on wall and more specialized ones on upper just adjacent to baking wall.

    Mixer sits on countertop at present and I don't foresee changing that. Too heavy to lift and I'm not shamed if appliances sit out.

    NOTES:

    Helpful info on baking zone.
    clipped on: 07.13.2012 at 01:56 pm    last updated on: 07.13.2012 at 01:56 pm

    RE: Help! Disposal sheild driving me NUTS! (Follow-Up #16)

    posted by: akchicago on 06.30.2012 at 09:46 am in Kitchens Forum

    Home4all6 - the thread that 2LittleFishies linked discusses some of the differences between batch feed and continuous feed, but I will list them specifically here. Also, this choice is individual to the user - there is no right or wrong choice, just one of preference. Both types have pros and cons.

    A batch feed disposal is turned on and off by its cover, which also doubles as the sink strainer, or if you want to fill the sink with water, the cover acts as a sink stopper too. Because the disposal can only operate with the cover on, some consider it safer than a continuous feed disposal which is turned on by a separate switch. I remember a rental apartment I lived in where the undercabinet light switch and the disposal switch were next to each other, and you really had to think before turning on the disposal. If I had children who like to play with switches and the like, I would only get a batch feed disposal. Just MHO.

    Another advantage to a batch feed is that there is no need for a switch in your backsplash or a hole in your counter (for an airswitch). Love that. Also, as mentioned, batch feed disposals don't need the rubber flange that was the original subject of this thread. You can also see clearly down into the disposal to retrieve spoons or whatever that have dropped down, and no need to slide your wrist past a slimy flange.

    The thread that 2LittleFishes linked mentions that batch feeds might not turn off or something like that. We had batch feed disposals growing up, and I have lived with numerous different ones over many years, and never had that happen.

    The linked thread also mentions that Insinkerator batch feed disposals use a magnetic mechanism in the cover to turn on and off the disposal, and that this magnet may take fiddling. For that reason, I prefer the Waste Kings, which simply have a little mechanical notch (also mentioned in the linked thread) just inside the top drain that turns on and off the disposal. I much prefer that, and also the Waste Kings have larger chambers which I prefer too. The Insinkerators are quieter so that's the tradeoff.

    In the linked thread, Marcolo mentions not wanting to have to put your hand into a filled sink to turn on and off a batch feed disposal. That would be true, but I, like others who responded in that thread, haven't encountered that situation. I mean, if you are filling a sink with water, regardless of whether you are using a batch feed disposal or not, you will have to reach your hand into the water to pull out the stopper to let the water drain in any case.

    One reason people don't like a batch feed disposal is that you put your scraps into it in "batches". I.e. fill it, turn it on with the stopper, pull out the stopper, fill it again until finished. A legitimate complaint, and you have to weigh that against the other pros of the batch feed and decide what you'd like. The Waste King batch feeds have larger chambers, so it take a lot to fill them, so you don't need to do as many batches. Note that it is important to make sure you have room under your sink for the larger chambers of the batch feed disposal.

    I hope that answers all the questions. It's one of those personal preference decisions.

    NOTES:

    Info on batch feed vs continuous feed garbage disposals.
    clipped on: 06.30.2012 at 05:38 pm    last updated on: 06.30.2012 at 05:39 pm

    RE: Seven deadly sins of dated decorating (Follow-Up #36)

    posted by: bronwynsmom on 06.29.2012 at 03:05 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

    Ooooh, this is one of my favorite questions!
    A neutral is a color made from pigments that are opposites on the color wheel.

    I am of the opinion that every color has both positive and neutral values. So any color, dulled down by adding some of its opposite on the color wheel, and/or by graying or browning it down, can function as a neutral.

    The more different and opposing pigments you add to a color, the more neutral it becomes...you can start with anything, and end up with some version of mud if you keep going.

    So a red with green added to it can become a neutral.
    Purple with yellow becomes a neutral.
    Blue with orange becomes a neutral.
    Green with red added...etcetera.

    They may still be identified clearly as red or purple or blue or green, but they function as neutrals by being quiet, and serving as background for other brighter colors.

    Stark black and white are, in my view, not neutral, but they can be blank canvases for color.

    The most interesting grays are made from opposing colors, not from black and white. If you ever bought a pair of gray pants and tried to find a sweater to match, you know what I mean...you get outside in the sunlight, and one of them looks green and the other purple.

    How'm I doing here..?

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 06.29.2012 at 09:35 pm    last updated on: 06.29.2012 at 09:35 pm

    RE: DW Air Gap-is it necessary?? (Follow-Up #6)

    posted by: akchicago on 06.24.2012 at 09:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I will link an older thread about air gaps. Your subject title is "is it necessary?" Well, air gaps are required by Code in only a handful of states; according to the thread below, California, Texas, Washington, Nevada and maybe a couple others. So the answer to your question would be "no" unless you live in one of those states.

    To be clear on a few things:
    - The air gap's purpose is to prevent dirty water from your dishwasher from flowing back into the dishwasher to re-dirty the dishes. But it's considered an obsolete method to do so.

    - The air gap has been replaced by what's been mentioned in this thread, the "high loop hose" installation on the dishwasher.

    - High loop is more effective than the air gap at preventing backwash into the DW, which is why most states don't require the air gap any longer.

    - New dishwashers today come with the high loop hose already installed. Is the OP buying a new dishwasher or using an older model?

    See the thread linked below which also has a video link to show you what a high loop hose is and how to install it (if your DW doesn't already have it pre-installed).

    Here is a link that might be useful: Thread about Air Gaps

    NOTES:

    Good info plus good link to read/watch.
    clipped on: 06.26.2012 at 10:59 pm    last updated on: 06.26.2012 at 11:00 pm

    White Painted Shaker Cabinet Pricing Comparison

    posted by: kompy on 05.11.2012 at 04:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

    For my own personal use, I priced out a wall and base cabinet in a few of my cabinet lines to see where each line stood on price. These prices do not include any manufacturer promotions currently running. All include freight costs. I looked up...with a bit of difficulty, the prices of IKEA. I thought there would be more SKUs and doorstyles.

    Shaker door style
    Maple Wood
    White Paint
    Drawer guides: Whatever comes standard
    No upgrades
    W3630
    B36
    Note: All are full overlay...except with Shiloh you can choose from full overlay or inset. Both are the same price right now. Ikea, Debut, KraftMaid and Plain & Fancy, all have full extension, soft close drawers as a standard.

    Cost to Homeowner:
    $600 to $650 for Ikea Akurum (req. assembly-$55 per box?)
    $657 Debut Cabinetry: Oxford
    $669 Medallion: Silverline Lancaster
    $888 Shiloh: Shaker Inset (reverse raised panel shaker)
    $916 KraftMaid: Atwater
    $963 KraftMaid: Huntington
    $983 Medallion: Potter's Mill
    $987 Showplace: Pendleton
    $1494 Plain & Fancy: Vogue Beaded Inset

    So for 24' Lin. Ft of cabinets, costs would be:
    $5,352 Medallion Silverline Full Overlay
    $7,104 Shiloh Inset
    $11,952 P&F Inset

    I realize, much of this could change from dealer to dealer and region to region. If you add another brand of cabinet, I can add it to the list. Also some brands are higher on the extras like accessories, moldings and custom modifications. For cost comps in your area and for your kitchen, you still must do the footwork. But maybe this will help somebody.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 06.25.2012 at 09:18 pm    last updated on: 06.25.2012 at 09:18 pm

    RE: Kitchen cabinet construction (Follow-Up #4)

    posted by: jakuvall on 06.20.2012 at 07:38 am in Kitchens Forum

    All manufacturers I know of make face frames from 3/4" solid wood. You will occasionally find 1" available from higher end companies, most often for aesthetic reasons not for strength.

    How the frame is made? This is more definitive of quality than almost anything else that you can easily find out about. Less expensive brands will use pocket holes and screws to join the frames. Next up are doweled frames. At the top end there are true mortise and tenon. A few mid range companies offer loose tenons or a variation on dowels. That sounds nice but in my experience the results are not done as well as doweled cabinets.

    How are the boxes kept square? Plastic corner reinforcements, wooden corners (better), full plywood struts along each side (even better), and finally at the top end full sub tops or dust tops. Inset cabinets should always have full dust tops in my opinion.

    Sides- How are the sides joined to the cabinet and what are they? First off what are they? (note particle board will often be called furntiture board, long grain flakeboard, and occasionally incorrectly MDF. Of the 500 or so mfgs out there only a handful actually use MDF for boxes) Cheapest will be 3/8" particle board, that is a case wherer you should upgrade to ply. Then comes plywood-3/8". 1/2" for standard sides are common- 3/4" for standard sides is not common but can be found at local custom makers. It keeps customers happy and is easy for them to just buy it. It is unnecessary in a framed cabinet.
    3/4" (or 5/8") is more common in flush finished sides and desireable. There is often debate over plywood versus particle board. I find nothing wrong with particle (especially for frameless) depending on what it is, some of the plywood used is simply no better. But a lot of folks will argue this.
    How good the particle or (ply for that matter)is will vary. If looking at manufactured cabinets I would go more by price/reputation than worrying about the specifics. It is unlikely that the salesman can answer with authority what type, where it came from, what grade, etc. When I'm looking for a mfg the reps usually have to put me in touch with the factory to get those answers. Local shops are less likely to use particle. Domestic or Canadian particle or ply is better than Mexican (particle) or Chinese (any)

    More importantly is how the sides are joined to the box. Most of that you can only tell by looking at an uninstalled cabinet. Best are into dadoes and glued, staples are ok if the glue is done properly and the fit is tight. Lots of staples is a bad sign. A little glue exposed is a good sign. I would rather see some glue that was not cleaned up than get a glue starved joint.

    Almost everyone will give you dovetail drawers. There are other constructions used by local shops and often are fine and will still last 30 years. 1/2" box sides require better wood than 3/4" sides. I will not sell a cabnet with Chinese drawer glides- I only consider Grass/Mepla, Blum, KV or Accuride glides. (in that order for undermount)

    What type of finish- full conversion varnish is arguably the best but nothing wrong with pre-catalyzed varnishes used by local shops. How much is used and how well it is applied matters more. Almost no one can tell you what the "wet build" is for the finish on their cabinets. (you should see the look on reps faces when I ask that :) Run your hand along the bottom edges of drawer faces- feel smooth and consistant- good. Best way to tell finish.

    Warranty- mfgs will give you a "limited lifetime warranty" This is a great marketing tool. If you are going to have a defect it will be in the first year, after that everything is wear and tear. So you are then left to the good graces of the mfg. Better mfg will take care of things forever as a courtesy, cheaper ones will be less likely to do so. Hardware is almost always for life and not usually difficult to bet taken care of.
    What "grade" of wood is used for doors AND what they consider a replaceable door. If you are getting light colored woods you want a better grade of cabinet if you are fussy. Some manufacturers will replace a door if the salesperson asks, others require it be warped a specific amount (as much as a 1/4") some want it to acclimatize for a year, some have a size limit on doors for warranty.

    NOTES:

    Great info to pay attention to on cab construction!
    clipped on: 06.20.2012 at 10:58 am    last updated on: 06.20.2012 at 10:59 am

    RE: From excited anticipation to sheer panic....help (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: bahacca on 06.19.2012 at 06:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

    WOw-how fortunate that you'll get to design from scratch, but I can see how that would be daunting. I'd keep a list on the counter or the fridge with a pen. I think all of us in our inner minds comment on things that drive us nuts, we wish we had, we say "if only ____". Write these down and they will help guide you. I know 1st on my list would be "This STUPID DEEP pantry! I want everything spread out and shallow so I can SEE what is in there!" Another one for me would be a place by the wall oven big enough to set down a cookie sheet so I didn't have to spin around with hot pans to set them down on the peninsula or the stove top. So maybe focus on 1 small thing at a time since you have a while. 1 week, pay attention to your prep space. Is everything at hand? Are your knives on the other side of the kitchen? How far to the sink? Next week pay attention to your sink. Then your oven area and so on. Also keep in mind things like if you entertain-is there a place for special dishes you use? Do you have to make lunches for your children, or are they grown? I'd LOVE a place dedicated to my bento box addiction. I won't need it 20 years from now, but if I were building a house NOW, I'd for sure include it as I'd use it for 10 years. Then evaluate your appliances if you are going to get new ones. Keep these lists and put them in a folder and review when you are getting ready to build. THen you'll know "I need a pantry that is wider than deep, I need a knife drawer in my prep space, an electrical outlet next to the stove, etc"

    NOTES:

    Great start on what to focus on when beginning a kitchen.
    clipped on: 06.19.2012 at 07:21 pm    last updated on: 06.19.2012 at 07:22 pm

    RE: Kitchen Sink - Single or Double ? (Follow-Up #26)

    posted by: mgmsrk on 06.09.2012 at 09:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

    http://www.stacksandstacks.com/expandable-over-the-sink-dish-drainer

    Amazon is out at the moment but that is the style I was thinking of getting for the new house. Ohhh but BB&B has it, and I have a coupon!

    http://www.amazon.com/Amco-Over-Sink-Dish-Expandable/dp/B000Y52CHK

    http://www.stacksandstacks.com/adjustable-over-sink-dish-drainer?id=175&sku=17489

    http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/product.asp?SKU=11785700

    I don't know how to make them all active links, sorry.

    Here is a link that might be useful: another dish rack for sink

    NOTES:

    Sink accessories.
    clipped on: 06.10.2012 at 04:06 pm    last updated on: 06.10.2012 at 04:07 pm

    RE: Gooseneck Faucets- More Splashing? (Follow-Up #14)

    posted by: drachiele on 05.14.2012 at 06:24 am in Kitchens Forum

    I have tested many faucets with regard to splashing. I have found that a quality aerator is the key. If you want to test a faucet, turn it on full stream and put a pot under it with the bottom facing upwards. The water should not splash at all. The water should hug the pot.

    NOTES:

    aerator
    clipped on: 05.14.2012 at 10:52 am    last updated on: 05.14.2012 at 10:52 am

    RE: acute forgetfulness (Follow-Up #6)

    posted by: tinam61 on 05.08.2012 at 02:42 pm in Home Decorating Forum

    I agree with hh - alzeimer's is just one form of dementia. My grandmother has it - the beginning stages. Thankfully, once she started medication, she has not progressed. She has always known us and knows most everyone around her. If she's not seen someone in some time, she may not remember who they are until told. Appetite, particularly thinking she is hungry, not realizing she has eaten, etc. are typical with Alzheimers. Paranoia can be a symptom. There are many symptoms a person may or may not have with Alzheimers. She should see a physician or someone who deals with geriatrics. Here we have a program called GAP (geriatric assessment program) that can help in diagnosing Alzheimers and other forms of dementia. My grandmother also got to where she was seeing things at night - thought people were going to break into the house, etc. Things became distorted (she was seeing my parents landscaping lights). She became very insecure about leaving her home and is much the same way about the assisted living facility where she is now. But that's fine. She's content there in her villa, with the workers, other tenants, etc. She can tell you about years ago when her mother would put a quilt on the ground for her and her sister, while she worked in the yard. She's 95 years old.

    Anyway, hopefully her doctor will figure this out. Low levels of potassium, sodium and others can cause symptoms that seem "mental". My grandfather thought he saw Winnie the Pooh in his hospital room. We were sure it was pain medication (he was recovering from surgery), but his potassium level had dropped very low. After an IV, he was his old self. Programs like GAP are helpful because they review medications, lifestyle, the whole picture. These are medical professionals, but sometimes give a clearer view than just one doctor. They also do testing to determine if there is dementia, etc.

    Hope you find something out soon!

    tina

    NOTES:

    GAP=geriatric assessment program
    clipped on: 05.12.2012 at 11:43 am    last updated on: 05.12.2012 at 11:44 am

    RE: Breezy- thanks for your storage idea (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: breezygirl on 04.04.2012 at 11:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

    It's my drawer's long lost, but not evil, twin separated at birth!

    Spice drawer awaiting new labels

    I seriously will throw a party when I find that darned label maker! Oh the things I want to tag in my newly remodeled house....

    I should take a new pic now that I've added my paprikas in the drawer. I'll link to the company, Specialty Bottle, below. Badgergirl and I both used the smaller TCT4 tins and the larger TCT8.

    Love yours!! Your more petite drawer actually snuggles the tins better than mine. And wait until you're in the middle of a trenches cooking a big meal. You'll get a thrill from being able to see all your spices laid out where grabbing and measuring takes a mere second. You'll wonder how you ever got by reaching into a dark upper cab with toppling towers of spices.

    And thanks for the kind shout-out. I can't believe I actually helped someone! You brightened the end of a sad day full of good-byes and made me smile. :-)

    Here is a link that might be useful: Specialty Bottle spice tins with clear lids

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 04.05.2012 at 08:10 am    last updated on: 04.05.2012 at 08:10 am

    RE: Stainless sink, rectangular, with offset drain? (Follow-Up #10)

    posted by: drachiele on 04.04.2012 at 01:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I have to agree with the comment above... Julien makes the finest stainless steel sink out there in my book. I have referred several people to Julien. A couple thoughts... Double check the Franke distance from the drain to the side of the sink. Make sure there is enough room for your disposal. Just from looking at the photo above, it looks tight. Secondly, be careful of stainless sinks coming from China. This is a photo sent to me by a contractor of a Kohler Vault stainless sink that the contractor said was rusting - new in the box. Kohler Vault Rusting

    NOTES:

    Remember this.
    clipped on: 04.04.2012 at 02:09 pm    last updated on: 04.04.2012 at 02:10 pm

    RE: Advantium + another microwave? 2 dishwashers? Oven under coo (Follow-Up #3)

    posted by: SadieV on 01.23.2012 at 08:11 am in Kitchens Forum

    We had an Advantium in our old kitchen. We are a family of four and I host many dinners for a large extended family. I love to cook and bake and spend many hours in the kitchen. I don't think I ever felt I needed another microwave in addition to the Advantium. I have the KitchenAid microwave/convection combination oven in our new kitchen, and I like it much better than the Advantium. If you are going to use it for baking, I highly recommend the microwave/convection combo.

    If you are going with an induction cooktop and a separate oven under the cooktop, one thing to consider is the venting on the oven. Wall ovens vent to the front, which means if you're standing at the cooktop and have the oven on you'll have the hot air blowing on you. If you're using a range, that will vent to the top. I have a cooktop and wall oven (with the micro/convection above that) and find it much more convenient that my old setup with a range.

    NOTES:

    KA MW/conv oven
    clipped on: 04.04.2012 at 10:06 am    last updated on: 04.04.2012 at 10:06 am

    RE: Steam-combi versus GE Advantium (Follow-Up #16)

    posted by: ValerieBrondyke on 03.09.2012 at 02:10 pm in Appliances Forum

    We happen to be trying to figure out what wall oven/microwave combo unit to buy too now. Just to add a new suggestion into the mix, has anybody come across the Sharp SuperSteam Microwave Oven? It has a trim kit for making it into a built-in. We've been thinking of buying it ourselves, but I'm not sure if it would bug me that it doesn't have a number pad (I guess the same is true for the Advantium?) or a turntable. It has great reviews, though, and has both steaming and convection cababilities.

    Another one we're looking at is the Electrolux Icon 1.5 30" built-in microwave with convection (but no steamer). Reviews are more love-it or hate-it on that one, and I know their 1.1 cu. foot similar model has lots of complaints about the door hinges being plastic and breaking, though maybe the bigger one has different hinges? We're thinking of getting it b/c we're planning to get an Electrolux Icon fridge and already have a GE Monogram range (which we just got for cheap as a floor model and which has a very similar handle style to the Electrolux Icon Professional line), such that everything would match.

    Maybe one of those might work for you? Anybody here have any thoughts on either of these choices?

    NOTES:

    Did not know Sharp has a SuperSteam MW. Check on this.
    clipped on: 04.04.2012 at 10:03 am    last updated on: 04.04.2012 at 10:04 am

    RE: Why do I like one but not the other? Question about soffits. (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: palimpsest on 03.14.2012 at 10:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I like the second better than the first but in both they are slightly larger in dimension than the cabinets below.

    I use soffits, but I generally design them to sit flush or slightly behind the cabinet door plane, and only use a small moulding between the cabinet and the soffit, saving the crown for the junction between the soffit and ceiling.

    NOTES:

    Crown molding and soffits--how to do them together.
    clipped on: 03.14.2012 at 11:01 pm    last updated on: 03.14.2012 at 11:02 pm

    RE: Where is your dish towel? (Follow-Up #23)

    posted by: buehl on 03.12.2012 at 03:00 am in Kitchens Forum

    What...no towel pigs?

    I use the freezer door handle and sometimes the warming drawer handle...the ovens are "off limits" b/c my front door view is the ovens! I find keeping the towel out in the open makes the towel much more accessible when needed - no opening a cabinet door w/dripping wet hands. It also allows it to dry more quickly and does not create a damp environment inside a cabinet.

    Here are some older towel threads...including the famous "towel pig"!

    What to do with the Dish Towel?!?! [Towel Pig thread]

    OT. Kitchen-towel-hanging-on-the-oven-door-survey...

    Where do you hang your cloth hand towels?

    narrow open cabinet to hang damp dish towels

    Where and how do you hang your cloth dishtowels?

    Where do you put paper towels, wet dish towels, cutting boards,

    where do you hang the dish towel in the spanking new kitchen?

    Where do you hang your dish towels?

    These are about dish cloths:

    where do you keep kitchen cloths?

    Ew...wet rags on kitchen sink

    Dish cloth or sponge? And where do you store it between uses?

    Where to store that wet dishrag?

    NOTES:

    Wet towel storage and dish rags
    clipped on: 03.12.2012 at 12:06 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2012 at 11:26 pm

    RE: 39 or 36 inch wall cabs (Follow-Up #10)

    posted by: akchicago on 02.24.2012 at 08:23 am in Kitchens Forum

    In answer to your question, not everyone does u/c lighting, but I couldn't function in my kitchen without mine. My ceiling cans are poorly placed and create shadows, making my counter too dark to use at night without the u/c lights. I also love how I can dim them, and not have the ceiling lights on at all, and have lovely soft mood lighting. I have Juno xenons, which have a nice bright white light, and do not run hot. Love them! Also look into the LEDs which are really tiny. They are great. But if you choose LEDs, choose carefully, because some of them are not bright enough. There is a Lighting Forum on the Gardenweb that may have more info.

    NOTES:

    Juno xenon u/c lighting that do not run hot.
    clipped on: 02.24.2012 at 09:28 am    last updated on: 02.24.2012 at 09:29 am

    RE: What Is The Real Question Being Asked To 'What is Timeless' (Follow-Up #13)

    posted by: palimpsest on 01.23.2012 at 01:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Since you brought up the LBD from 1988: as long as it wasn't too "Dynasty" it might be all right, but it was probably a little boring or understated (or maybe a lot boring or understated for the 80s)

    There are 5 women in my family, (mothers and daughters) and when we were having my mother's viewing and funeral, they were short of sensible black dress shoes, black handbags, and plain dark cardigans and things like that (two live in Florida, two are in their very early 20s)

    Five discreet black handbags and three pairs of classic black shoes from high heels to flats made it from her closet to her own funeral. At least one of those handbags was from the 1940s and had been Her mother's. And not everything she owned was this way, but a lot of basics were.

    I don't think they ever dressed the height of fashion, but I don't think they ever looked "wrong" either.

    I think if you approach interiors this way: a little plain, a little not so a la mode, a trend here balanced by the anti-trend there...it may come close to, if not "timeless" at least enduring enough to not feel compelled to change it.

    NOTES:

    So eloquently stated! Warms my heart.
    clipped on: 01.23.2012 at 03:53 pm    last updated on: 01.23.2012 at 03:53 pm

    RE: Armstrong luxury vinyl floor tiles (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: joyce_6333 on 11.25.2011 at 08:43 am in Kitchens Forum

    We used these in our laundry room, mudroom closet area, and in the half bath by the back entry. I am not a fan of porcelain tiles; we had so much trouble with cracking tile and grout in our previous home. We're extremely happy with this product. We chose a dark color, canyon stone, just because it would get hard use. We had it installed without grout, and it looks great. It was installed over a membrane, so it would be easy to remove if we would ever want to change it.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 01.23.2012 at 01:36 pm    last updated on: 01.23.2012 at 01:36 pm

    RE: Before, During and After (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: kellied on 01.22.2012 at 06:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Working on it!! I do have some pics posted on the Finally thread but I thought I would get them all together here.
    Photobucket
    Photobucket
    Photobucket
    Photobucket
    Photobucket
    Photobucket
    Photobucket

    NOTES:

    Hickory cabs!!
    clipped on: 01.23.2012 at 12:43 pm    last updated on: 01.23.2012 at 12:44 pm

    RE: Mistakes that others can learn from (Follow-Up #9)

    posted by: dianalo on 11.10.2011 at 12:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Most important: Do not pay the final payment until it is 100% done! You need to keep a large payment back and need to be firm about this. We got pressured into paying most of the final payment because our job went long and they claimed we were so close to completion. You all know what happened after that.... The final payment is held back as an incentive to finish. It does not matter how much is left to do, it will ensure they do it because the payment will not be in their hands until it is. I can't stress this enough!

    Watch that they don't use nails on your sheetrock.

    The exterior height of a cab is not the same as the interior height. I measured some open cabs that should have fit my kitchen electrics comfortably, but I failed to account for the thickness of the box. Pretty dumb in hindsight....

    Make sure you specify exactly where you want your lighting to the electrician or you will be fixing holes in the sheetrock when they have to move them all.

    Speak to people who have completed projects from the gc and ask how it was a few months after and if they came back to fix or tweak anything. I'd also ask if there was anything to be careful about with the gc. People may be happy overall, but you need to know the weaknesses. They may need to be reminded. I found people after we got screwed who were all able to warn me (too late!).

    Make sure the faucet is tall enough for a vessel sink with actual measurements (ot - bathroom).

    Put your wall oven fairly close to where the vent over the stove is or risk setting off your smoke detector occasionally.

    Make sure that any windows are not placed too low. We had this in our bedroom where it is too low to put furniture below them, but this could happen anywhere.

    Make sure the hardware is tightened for any pocket doors before they close the wall up. Our wheels went off the track and can't be gotten back on to stay without opening up the freshly completed wall to tighten them in place.

    NOTES:

    Great "do NOT do" advice!
    clipped on: 11.10.2011 at 01:40 pm    last updated on: 11.10.2011 at 01:40 pm

    RE: Kitchen Almost Done- Finally- Pix (Follow-Up #14)

    posted by: kawh707 on 11.06.2011 at 11:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

    breezygirl-- the cabinets are from Lowes and the (cotati) store up here has the absolute most patient cabinet designer in the world. they are kraftmaid and they are in the color canvas. (some doors still need to be replaced... they are all supposed to be flat front.)

    the paint color is BM Tranquility. it looks pretty awful on the paint chip, in my opinion, but is truly tranquil on the walls. we are really happy with it. i call it green-gray, hubbie calles it blue-gray... so it's really an in-between color, i guess.

    dilly ny -- the solar tube can be purchased at most home improvement stores. it is the larger of the lights (amongst recessed lights) in the first picture. it lets in so much light that we were told not to get the larger size, as it can get too warm when standing under it for long periods of time on a v. sunny day.(not sure this is the case...) you can also put a light inside of it-- so that it functions as a light by day (sun) and at night (switched bulb). they are around $100 or so-- and only took our contractor a couple of hours to install. (hole in ceiling, hole in roof and super-shiny reflective between.)

    NOTES:

    Love her paint color!
    clipped on: 11.07.2011 at 11:14 am    last updated on: 11.07.2011 at 11:14 am

    RE: Things I would NOT recommend or things I dislike! (Follow-Up #40)

    posted by: rhome410 on 04.28.2008 at 01:01 am in Kitchens Forum

    I do love some things about my Wolf rangetop...The size and number of burners, and it's a great performer...But I agree with Montalvo's DW...Pain in the backside to clean. At first it wasn't bad, but over time (a whole 2 months), the stuff is baked on, the whole thing gets spattered from using one burner, and I'm disappointed...Still pining after the induction I originally thought we'd have, but also knowing it wouldn't do as well with my 2 burner grill/griddle pan and my 15 1/2" skillet that we use a LOT. Oh, well. As I've said, the bad with the good... I heartily apologize to anyone on the appl forum who read anything I wrote too early on that said it wasn't 'too bad' to clean. I just got some Barkeepers Friend to try on it, and may change out my 1 3/4 type sink for a super single so I can soak the underpans to see if it helps.

    Boxiebabe, I'm concerned about your idea for pullout shelves above the oven and refrigerator. I think you'll still knock things down, but they'll end up behind the pullout and will be in the way when you try to close it...THEN try to get them out with the pullout shelf in your way! But maybe you're better at these things, because I'm pretty certain that's the way it would work for me! ;-)

    I wish I'd given up a bit of kitchen for more pantry, just as I wish I'd put more closets in the rest of the house.

    I don't miss the gross, yuck-collecting trash compactor we had in our last house, and instead love the dbl trash pullout for garbage in front and recycle in back.

    NOTES:

    PANTRY --give up kit space for it.
    clipped on: 11.06.2011 at 03:46 pm    last updated on: 11.06.2011 at 03:47 pm

    RE: HELP - do people do granite backsplashes anymore? (Follow-Up #3)

    posted by: spincrazy25 on 10.18.2011 at 06:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I did subway tiles down to the countertop, no 3" backsplash. The previous poster is right-the fabricator will need to be more precise since there is less margin for error. One thing I learned after the fact- wherever there is a change in direction, like the joint betweem the backsplash and the counter, caulk should be used, not grout. Good Luck!

    NOTES:

    Use caulk by granite.
    clipped on: 10.21.2011 at 06:17 pm    last updated on: 10.21.2011 at 06:18 pm

    RE: Stacked Cabinet ? (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: GreenDesigns on 10.18.2011 at 12:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Why aren't you taking your cabinets to the ceiling? You will have 12" of space "left over" with that configuration. 12" of molding is an awful lot! The best proportions for stacked cabinets are around 2/3 to 1/3 ratio to around 3/4 to 1/4. It will depend on the level of detail in your door, the color of the cabinetry, whether or not glass is used in the uppers, an how much crown molding you are planning. If you are using stock sizes, then 30" with 18"s with glass and 6" of molding is a nice proportion. It's a bit top heavy for my taste with all wood doors or with too fussy muntins. If you are doing custom, then 33" with 15"s (plus 6" of molding) in either solid or glass is a nice proportion. Or if you are doing really custom, then 31" and 17" (plus 6" of molding) would be nearer the 2/3 to 1/3 "golden mean" ratio.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 10.18.2011 at 01:06 pm    last updated on: 10.18.2011 at 01:06 pm

    Lurker's very late finished kitchen post

    posted by: carlnorum on 10.16.2011 at 09:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Hi everyone,

    I haven't been around here much since May or so when we finally finished our project. I have at long last gotten the before & after pictures from our kitchen designer and wrote up a blog post about all of our kitchen details. Before getting down to the pics & links, I want to thank the kitchen forum for two big ingredients in our kitchen. My wife & I were reading the thread about "biggest kitchen regrets" from a few years back, and it definitely helped us make some decisions - first to go with the crazy granite, which I wouldn't have any other way now that it's been installed, and second to put garbage disposal units in both sinks.

    Now then, without further ado, some before & after pictures and a list of all our kitchen details. I hope that they can help provide other forum regulars and lurkers with even a fraction of the design ideas and inspiration we found by hanging around this forum before and during our project. All these images and details are also available here.

    Before Pictures - click thumbnails for larger versions:
    Before - old galley kitchen.Before - galley side 1.Before - galley side 2.Before - kitchen wall to be removed.Before - kitchen wall to be removed.Before - staircase wall to be removed.

    After Pictures - click thumbnails for larger versions:
    After - much improved!After - wide open spaces.After - appliances.After - island.After - sink & cooktop.After - staircase wall.

    Vendor information and design details:

    Big thanks to Yana, Greg, Jan, and everyone else at Artistic Kitchen Design & Remodeling for all of their help with this project. It was a lot of work and it seemed like it was taking forever, but the finished product is as good as we could have hoped for and better!

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 10.17.2011 at 10:44 am    last updated on: 10.17.2011 at 10:45 am

    RE: Why should I choose Custom cabinets over Semi-custom? (Follow-Up #3)

    posted by: buehl on 09.13.2011 at 05:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

    If you're not adding any "bells & whistles", the main advantage of Custom is that you can have cabinets made to fit your kitchen without any filler to make them fit. However, many semi-custom lines offer that as well (mine did).

    A custom cabinetmaker can build cabinets to suit you. E.g., deeper depths, etc. However, many of these things will drive the cost up...but, maybe not has high as it would be if you did them in semi-custom.

    Is this a "local custom cabinetmaker" or a custom line for manufacturer?

    If local and your custom cabinetmaker is good, then s/he can probably fix things on the spot that don't quite fit or do other "finishing touches" that others might not be able to do.

    You often also have not only a wider selection of door styles (and often nicer) with custom, but you can usually have a stain or paint made just for you...i.e., a unique, one-of-a-kind stain/paint!

    Other things to look for are the construction details, although many of the upgrades in custom aren't strictly necessary (like 3/4" thick walls vs 1/2" thick walls...besides, with the 1/2" walls you gain 1/2" of interior space :-)) Other things may very well be worth it.

    Hardware is another place where a custom line may be better...e.g., better quality full-extension, soft-close drawer glides might be standard for custom but an upgrade for semi-custom.


    We went with a mix of semi-custom & Custom from Omega. Their hardware was the same in both lines (full-ext/soft-close, etc.), most of the construction details were the same in both lines, they had the door & drawer styles I liked in both lines, and they had the wood & finish I wanted in both lines. The main differences were (1) Custom had 3/4" thick side walls vs the 1/2" side walls for semi (all other walls/floors were the same) and (2) the interiors of the Custom cabinets were birch or maple stained to match the exteriors vs the melamine in the semi. Neither mattered to me. The only cabinets I got that were Custom were those that were less expensive in Custom than if they were modified from a semi-custom cabinet. That amounted to, I think, 4 cabinets (two uppers, the MW drawer cabinet, and, I think, one of the peninsula cabinets).

    Not all manufacturers of both Custom & Semi-Custom offer the same things and not all semi-custom cabinetmakers are as flexible as Omega.

    Some questions to ask:

  8. What are you getting standard w/the custom cabinets that you're not getting standard with the semi-custom? If you upgraded the semi-custom to match the custom, what's the price difference then?

  9. What are the other differences b/w them and do they matter to you? (Like the 3/4" vs 1/2" side walls that didn't matter to me)

  10. Are the installers of one better than the other?


    Hopefully, others will chime in as well....

  11. NOTES:

    Custom cabs vs semi.
    Great to think though.
    clipped on: 10.15.2011 at 09:19 pm    last updated on: 10.15.2011 at 09:20 pm

    RE: How to judge a better quality cabinet (Follow-Up #13)

    posted by: hollysprings on 10.13.2011 at 11:21 am in Kitchens Forum

    Butt cabinets have nothing to do with plumber's butt, although I guess my posting might have given that impression. LOL!

    More on butt cabinets:

    A butt cabinet is one where the two doors "butt" together, rather than have a center stile (upright member) behind where the doors come together. It's a more complete access issue because you have access to the whole cabinet interior, not just half and half. It can be a construction issue as well. Some cabinet lines use thinner materials and cannot construct butt cabinets because they won't have enough support without that center stile. I wouldn't deal with a cabinet company that didn't at least offer butt cabinets in their line, even if they were an upcharge. :( Many cabinet lines offer them as a standard without you even having to ask.

    Butt doors will all have a tiny gap between them, because of the clearance needed to be able to open both doors. That bothers some people, and it doesn't bother others. If I'm spec'ing a butt cabinet with interior lighting, I'll also spec what's called a "dust strip" by cabinet companies, or a T astragal by door manufacturers. It's a small strip on the back side of one door that covers the gap. That means that you have to close that door first and open the other one first. It's not a big deal for a glass display cabinet, and it keeps the light from shining through, but it can be a pain on more often used cabinets so those don't usually have that spec'd.

    Now you know more about something you didn't even know existed than some box store kitchen clerks do! LOL!

    NOTES:

    Butt cabinets doors.
    clipped on: 10.13.2011 at 02:13 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2011 at 02:13 pm

    RE: List of stuff in kitchens? (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: buehl on 07.18.2008 at 12:13 am in Kitchens Forum

    To indirectly answer your question, here's the storage planning "guide" I came up with...it should help you figure out what you want to store in the kitchen and where.

    Once you've finalized your basic design, it's time to analyze your storage needs in each zone. The results of that analysis will drive the size/configuration of your cabinets and drawers. (The following is a general write-up I've come up with...)

    1. First, make a list of everything you plan to store in your new kitchen, regardless of where it's stored now...kitchen, basement, dining room, etc.

    2. Next, take the list and group the items according to function. Will they be used during prep? cooking? baking? cleanup? Some items, like pot holders, may belong in two different zones (in this case, cooking & baking). You can either find storage between the two zones or have duplicates and store one in each zone.

    3. Now, determine where each of your zones will be (prep, cleanup, cooking, baking, storage, etc.)

    4. The next step depends on the stage you are in the design/order process...

    5. If you've already ordered your cabinets, then you will have to work with what you have. So...

      • Identify the storage potential in each zone and list them on a piece of paper with a section for each cabinet (base & upper) and one line per drawer or shelf in that cabinet. This includes your pantry for your "storage" zone.

      • Take the two lists and, while imagining yourself working in each zone, put the dishes, tools, etc. that you will be using in cabinets in that zone. Fill in the lines in the cabinet list with these items.

      If you are still in the design phase, you will have the opportunity to plan your storage to meet your needs in each zone.

      • Take your list and imagine yourself working in each zone.

      • Go through the motions to determine the best locations for each item that will be used and stored in that zone (don't forget that you will probably have both upper and lower cabinets).

      • Now that you know where to put the items, determine what the best way is to store those items (drawer, shelf, etc.) and what size (e.g., pots & pans work best in 30" or 36" drawers)

      • Lastly, transfer what you've done to your design & tweak as necessary.

    You should now have a well-thought out and highly functional kitchen!

    This not only helps you to "see" how things will fit, but it also will help when you move back into the kitchen...you won't have to think about it, you'll be able to just put things away. It will also be a handy "map" for everyone to help find things the first few weeks w/o having to open every drawer or door!

    Oh, and don't forget the Junk Drawer! Most people end up with one, so you may as well plan for it so you at least have control over where it's located!

    Common Zones, Appliances In That Zone, and Suggestions For What To Store There:

    • Storage--pantry & refrigerator--tupperware, food, wraps & plastic bags

    • Preparation--sink & trash--utensils, measuring cups/spoons, mixing bowls, colander, jello molds, cutting boards, knives, cook books, paper towels

    • Cooking--cooktop/range & MW--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, serving dishes (platters, bowls, etc.), paper towels

    • Baking--ovens/range--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, casserole dishes, roasting rack, cooling racks, cookie sheets, foils, rolling pin, cookie cutters, pizza stone, muffin tins, paper towels

    • Cleanup--sink & DW & trash--detergents, linens, dishes & glasses, flatware

    • Eating--island/peninsula/table/nook/DR--table linens, placemats, napkins, dishes & glasses, flatware

    • Utility--broom, dustpan, swifter, mop, cleaning supplies, cloths, flashlights, batteries, extension cords

    • Message Center--phones, charging station, directories/phone books, calendar, desk supplies, dry erase board or chalkboard

    Less Common Zones:

    • Tea/Coffee Bar--coffeemaker--mugs, teas/coffees, sugar, teapot

    • Pet Zone--feeding area--food, snacks

    Commonly Used Items: pots & pans, utensils, small appliances, linens, pot holders, trivets, dish detergents, "Tupperware", knives, pitchers, water bottles, vases, picnic supplies, cook books, etc.

    Foods: Spices, Breads, Flours/Sugars, Teas/Coffees, Potatoes, Onions, Canned Goods, Dry Goods (rice, pasta, etc.), Cereals, Snacks

    Small Appliances: Toaster, Stand and/or Hand Mixer, Blender, Breadmaker, Toaster Oven, Food Processor, Crockpot, Waffle Iron, Electric Skillet, Coffeemaker, Coffee Grinder, Ricer, Steamer

    NOTE: If your ceiling or one or more of your walls is coming down, consider wiring for speakers, TV, Computer, etc.

    NOTES:

    Organizing your Kitchen.
    clipped on: 10.13.2011 at 12:50 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2011 at 12:50 pm

    RE: Advantiums & Microwave Convections - OTR (Follow-Up #10)

    posted by: detroit_burb on 10.11.2011 at 04:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I don't think convection MW's have a lower heating element and the Advantium does. In speed cook, you can set the lower and upper halogen elements separately which is important with frozen pizza and reheating meals that you want a crisp bottom crust. Speed cook mode is MW+halogen heat+convect. there is a third convection mode that does not use microwave and will heat up the oven as someone above mentioned. the panel will warn "hot oven" and will have to cool down before the next use.

    I have a convection MW, Whirlpool for about $600 in the new house, but have yet to use it so I'm not sure if you can do this with a convection MW or not. The previous MW's I had pre-date the advantium and did not convect, so I am not really sure what a convection MW can do.

    NOTES:

    Speed cook explained.
    clipped on: 10.12.2011 at 11:48 am    last updated on: 10.12.2011 at 11:49 am

    RE: Full granite backsplash and Electrical Outlets (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: cloud_swift on 01.06.2008 at 05:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I don't agree with what jamesk said about it being 2cm. Usually, it will be the same thickness as your counter granite because it comes off the same slabs. 2 cm stone might be cheaper than 3 cm but if the counters are going to be 3 cm, it might be difficult to find a color match and impossible to find a grain match in a 2 cm slab.

    Ours is 2 cm because that is what our counters are (and what most stone is around here).

    gneegirl, our electrical boxes were installed as kevin described. Our granite fabricator cut the holes for the outlets and switches when he came to install the backsplash. The cutting was done in our back yard. I think our outlet boxes are also a kind that lets the box depth be adjusted with a couple of screws though that isn't essential.

    We got Lutron outlets and switches in a color that went well with our granite (black but the Lutron "satin" black is less shiny than the ones at the hardware store - close to a matte). We splurged and got granite wall plates made from some of our left over granite by Columbia Gorge Stoneworks. One end of the backsplash is next to our back door and has a bank of six switches for various internal and external lights so the granite wall plates make a difference.

    We are quite happy with the results: Photobucket

    Here is how it looked before the granite wall plates arrived:
    Photobucket

    Here is a link that might be useful: Columbia Gorge Stoneworks

    NOTES:

    Check out this website. Great difference for outlets on granite backsplash!
    clipped on: 10.09.2011 at 05:54 pm    last updated on: 10.09.2011 at 05:55 pm

    RE: Contemplating Pocket Door in masterbath (Follow-Up #13)

    posted by: fponzani on 07.18.2007 at 11:03 pm in Building a Home Forum

    Pocket doors are great space savers. A few tips:

    - I don't use the prefab/prehung pocket doors. I build them up from the straightest stock I can get. I've even ripped birch plywood to make the frames. Better yet, make the wall with 2x6 plates.
    - Don't use cheap hardware (track and hangers). Ask for the heavy duty stuff.
    - Frame the opening oversize so that the door can be removed without tearing out the jambs. Nail stop molding to the jambs to cover the edges when closed.

    And most important...clearly label the wall, especially at the bottom, so that the carpenters don't fire nails into the door when hanging trim. Been there, done that. Two nails in every stud. Don't ever want to do it again.

    NOTES:

    Excellent help.
    clipped on: 10.04.2011 at 01:01 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2011 at 01:01 pm

    RE: Waterlox vs.? (Follow-Up #13)

    posted by: cottonland on 06.02.2008 at 12:54 pm in Flooring Forum

    awm03,

    I have a few pics at http://community.webshots.com/user/coltlake, however, that site may be down. I haven't been able to get to it from work the last few days. If you can't get to that site, I will post a few pics here in the next day or so.

    I used a 1:4 ratio of Minwax oil based stain to Waterlox Original Sealer (the max they recommend) for the first coat of Waterlox. The stain was a mix of two colors: 1 part Minwax Dark Walnut and 6 parts Minxwax Red Chestnut. We wanted a dark brown/red color. The Red Chestnut was too red and the Dark Walnut had no red at all. The mix was very close to what we wanted. We tried other colors like the Red Mahogony, but it had a purplish tint to it. After figuring out how many cans of each color we would need we opened the cans, mixed the stain in a bucket at the 1:6 ratio and then poured the mixed stain back into the original cans for storage until use.

    I would recommend getting several pieces of scrap flooring and trying the stain/Waterlox mix out to see what the colors look like. Remember, just apply it to the samples with a lambs wool applicator in one stroke (do not scrub it on) and let it cure - do not wipe it off. If you put enough on it will be wet looking with oil sitting on the surface of the wood. That is how you apply it to the actual floor. As it cures it will self-level and soak into the wood. Do not wipe off the excess oil - what doesn't soak in will harden. You can experiment with adding some of the other Minwax colors to your taste.

    When applying the stain/sealer mix to the floor be sure to take your time (too fast causes bubbles to form), get good coverage, overlap each adjacent strip, and keep the edges wet (don't stop working until the whole floor is finished). If you absolutely need to find a stopping point because the room is too large to completey cover in one day, you can cut in along the edge of the boards with a brush to finish a section and then cut in with a brush along the adjacent boards to start the next area. This works real well for later coats with plain Waterlox, but you still have to be careful with the first coat with stain that the brush strokes are uniform. If possible, save the larger areas for days when you have time to apply the first coat completely across the room. Because our flooring extends from one room into the next with no threshold, we had no natural stopping points between rooms, so we had to use the brush technique to stop along edges of boards near the doorway.

    After the first coat, inspect the floor for edges or spots that the stain missed. Wipe on a little stain/sealer mix, let it set for a minute, and then wipe it off and buff it. If you have gaps between the boards that the stain did not get down into, dip a brush into the the stain/sealer mix and work it into the gap and then wipe off the excess from the surface of the boards. You won't have to do this for the subsequent coats.

    After the second coat of sealer, the Waterlox should start to build up a layer and start to have little more uniform sheen. However, there may be spots, especially around knots in soft wood such as pine, where the Waterlox is still soaking in and does not have as much sheen as surrounding areas. I took some Waterlox and spot treated these areas and buffed it out with a rag so it could "catch up" with the rest of the floor. The subsequent 3rd and 4th coats resulted in an even sheen, even on the soft pine. Waterlox does not build up like polyurethane, though, so don't expect that knots will be have a perfectly even sheen. You will still be able to see them when you look across the floor towards a window, but it will look normal.

    Mixing the stain with the Waterlox, even at the maximum ratio recommended, resulted in a satisfactorily uniform staining of the white pine floors and saved a lot of effort compared to staining the floors in a separate step. Color uniformity was not perfect, but very satisfactory. It is hard to tell what color variations are due to the method of stain application or due to natural color variations in the wood itself. With lighter stains/ratios or harder woods the results should be even better.

    NOTES:

    Wood floor finish.
    clipped on: 10.04.2011 at 12:49 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2011 at 12:50 pm

    RE: Tell me about your favorite cabinet insert or storage soluti (Follow-Up #6)

    posted by: buehl on 10.01.2010 at 11:45 am in Kitchens Forum

    I think these two are my favorites....

    First, my tray storage (muffin tins, roasting pan, broiling pan, cookie sheets, cooling racks, pizza pans, etc.)

    Tray & Platter Storage, Cabinet Above the Ovens, 31

    This cabinet is above my double ovens. Two things about this I like:

    (1) The slots allow me to store everything in such a way that I can quickly and easily get exactly what I want w/o having to paw through a stack of trays, etc.

    (2) Platter storage...Because this cabinet is 24" deep, I can store all my longer platters and griddle lengthwise here.

    Also, notice the location of the shelf...removing a tray (or cookie sheet, muffin tin, cooling rack, etc.) only requires pulling out by a bottom corner, access to the top of the trays, etc. is not needed. So, to increase "reachable" storage, the trays are actually on the shelf and the platters & griddle are on the floor of the cabinet. This way, the platters & griddle are easily reached as well as the trays, etc.


    Second, my trash/recycle pullout with Junk Drawer above. The dogs can no longer get into the trash and I no longer have to find floor space for a stand-alone trash can. This also gives me room for two bins...the front bin holds trash, the back recyclables. So no more piling up of recyclables on the counter for a recycle run to the garage.

    Trash Pullout, 18


    OK...there are three things that are my favorite...my knife storage. I was never particularly happy storing my knives in a knife block on the counter. It took up too much space. I like this much, much better!

    Cooking, Knives, & Prep Tools Under Cooktop (top drawer), 36''

    I also like how I now have most of my prep & cooking utensils & tools organized so no more pawing through a drawer looking for just the right tool.


    Here's my husband's favorite...our "Pet Zone". In our old kitchen, we stored the dog food in the pantry and the other "doggy items" scattered around the house. Now, everything is in one place and right next to where we feed them.

    Pet Center Inside, 27

    One thing though...this was supposed to be a pullout w/the bottom "shelf" attached to the door and a roll out tray shelf (ROTS) inside. It was something I missed in the final cabinet order. B/c it's against a wall, we had to put in filler to allow the left door to open 90 degrees...and that's about all it opens. The other problems w/the configuration we ended up with, is that we have to pen two doors completely b/f we can pull out any of the ROTSs. If they're not open all the way, they ding the doors. Ditto for making sure the ROTSs are completely inside the cabinet b/f closing the doors. Oh well!

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 10.04.2011 at 11:50 am    last updated on: 10.04.2011 at 11:50 am

    RE: Toe kick heater? (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: cat_mom on 10.15.2010 at 10:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Turbonics. VERY happy with ours. Learned about it (and GW forums!) right here in Kitchen forum. Our plumber, who'd tried to dissuade us from getting them ("they're noisy" "you'll hate it" etc...) was impressed with these when he installed them. We have the Kickster (+3 or +4)--we had two installed; one on either side of our island.

    If you call the company directly, they will help figure out which model you need (we wanted to end up with same BTU's we were going to lose by moving things around and taking down a wall in the kitchen).

    They are quiet (you hear the air noise, but no "squirrel cage" squealing which apparently is common with most kick heaters) and can be hooked up to a switch or not.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Turbonics

    NOTES:

    Tell Chris about this.
    clipped on: 10.04.2011 at 11:47 am    last updated on: 10.04.2011 at 11:47 am

    RE: Do You Love Your D SHAPED Sink? (Follow-Up #8)

    posted by: buehl on 08.06.2011 at 04:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Hi akchicago! Yes, we do disagree, but that's actually good...this way people get different opinions!

    I will say that if it's too small, I agree it might be an issue, but if it's over 20" wide, I think it will be fine. I have a double-bowl and the large bowl is "D" shaped...it's 21.5" wide (same sink as WhiteRiverSooner) and all my cookie trays, pots & pans (plus handles), refrigerator shelves & bins (except the 36" wide deli bin), and Vent-A-Hood insert fit in that bowl.

    One of the things I like about a "D" shape is that you can put the faucet (and SD, etc.) on the curved corner so it's not quite so far back. This is especially useful when the sink is in front of a window with a sill or on an island or peninsula with a raised counter behind it. In these situations, the window sill, counter edge, or even the backsplash of any sink facing a "wall", can often take away from the space available for the faucet and cause issues w/the faucet swiveling or the handles moving freely w/o hitting the obstruction (sill, counter edge, etc.) behind the sink.

    NOTES:

    Consider this on sink/faucet.
    clipped on: 10.03.2011 at 07:34 pm    last updated on: 10.03.2011 at 07:34 pm

    RE: A Blanco Silgranit Beware (Follow-Up #6)

    posted by: alwaysfixin on 06.19.2011 at 01:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Sudhira - your "Beware" post isn't very edifying, since you omitted the name of your retailer. Also, which Silgranit sink is it? Perhaps another retailer has it in stock in the truffle or biscotti. You haven't provided enough information in your complaint.

    We bought our Silgranit anthracite Blancoprecis Super Single sink from Homeandstone, because that site was recommended repeatedly on this forum. The sink arrived in 2 days, and was packed in thick layers of styrofoam that held it absolutely inert and protected. As has been mentioned countless times on this forum when discussing Silgranit sinks, you must buy from a reputable seller. Saving 20 bucks or whatever isn't worth it if you are not buying from a reputable seller. Was your seller an authorized Blanco dealer? If so, then call Blanco customer service and let them know how one of their authorized dealers is treating their merchandise. You can also check the quality of your online seller by looking them up on resellerratings.com.

    Qualitystone is another retailer that is highly recommended on this forum. They also frequently have 5% off weekend sales. They have the biscotti color in stock for the Silgranit sinks. The truffle color is brand new, just hit the American market a month ago or so, and it is to be expected that truffle silgranit sinks might be on backorder.

    NOTES:

    Reputable websites for silgranit sinks and site to check sellers ratings.
    clipped on: 10.03.2011 at 05:55 pm    last updated on: 10.03.2011 at 05:56 pm

    RE: Sinks which type? Silgranit, stainless steel or cast iron? (Follow-Up #35)

    posted by: aliris19 on 06.26.2011 at 05:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I think these are utterly different commodities, granite, ss, and porcelain sinks. They all hold water (hopefully), and the similarity ends there. You choose one over another because you prefer the amenities of one over another, but you don't choose between them, if you follow - they're just completely different.

    I think there's a thread somewhere, probably from Buehl! delimiting the differences nicely, the pros/cons. I think that's the way to go.

    e.g. (not exhaustive by any means):

    Stainless:
    noisy, relatively cheap (can be), available as apron, under/over mount, shows water spots (though I think some do more than others), can be noisy depending on quality and gauge of material, relatively forgiving of dropped plates, builds a patina with age, doesn't chip or crack, available in many, many groovy shapes, many depths available - probably most versatile in terms of availability, worry-free in that it doesn't chip/crack

    granite: more expensive, warmer, more forgiving of dropped plates than porcelain, probably less so than ss, color coordinat-able, not-noisy, I find it "comforting", dunno why ... etc.

    porcelain: shiny and pretty, comes in colors, less maintenance, maybe - depends I suppose, old ones can be cranky, completely unforgiving of droppages!, sturdy, solid, available in old-thyme types...

    etc...

    I think you could make out a grid of all this, or somehow, find a quiet space inside yourself to figure out what parameters matter to *you* -- do you tend to drop dishes? You might want a bouncier sink. Do you care about water spots? You might want to stay away from ss. Do you want things to look really pretty and integrated? Silgranite...

    These are choices that are personal opinion. I don't think there is any factual way of choosing one over another. Unless you can state: I want the sink least likely to shatter a dropped dish. Then you've got an answer. Short of identifying the precise parameters that matter to you, you're in personal-opinion land.

    I happened to choose silgranite and ss. I like porcelain too; just didn't choose its particular strengths this time. FWIW I love my silgranite and only sort-of love my Kraus ss. I don't feel like I "want my money back" on the ss but it's not my fav; not sure why. It's possible it's the faucet that's the problem though (Ladylux) - the interaction of faucet and sink matters too.

    Good luck!

    NOTES:

    Good summary of sinks.
    clipped on: 10.03.2011 at 04:58 pm    last updated on: 10.03.2011 at 04:58 pm

    RE: Lighting company help-Pendants (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: citimom on 09.30.2011 at 10:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I have used lumens with success. Also rejuvenations and restoration hardware.

    NOTES:

    Good online companies to work with.
    clipped on: 10.01.2011 at 09:20 am    last updated on: 10.01.2011 at 09:21 am

    RE: Sigh - help make a hood decision :-) (Follow-Up #6)

    posted by: davidro1 on 09.29.2011 at 11:22 am in Kitchens Forum

    In general. you must have a duct of the exact size needed (specified by the opening at the exit end of the blower).

    If your duct is smaller than specified, you *could* run a large-cfm exhaust blower on its lowest setting (and think that this will offset the noise), but you would be UNsatisfied with the entire setup and UNhappy about the advice you thought you were getting from nice people advising what you can do.

    If the duct is too small from end to end it will resist or push back against air instead of allowing it to flow well; the fan blower will act in weird ways, humming, buzzing, strumming, and being generally lazy whether on speed #1, 2, or 3.

    Some ducts are only a few inches end to end. Some ducts are measured in inches length, because the end point is the wall outside, behind the hood.

    Some ducts go for so many feet that they need boosters (secondary blowers) at the far end.

    A long duct is an "obstacle", a clear resistance, a big thing. Never ask "is this considered long?" as it's all a continuum, from ease to resistance.

    If in the duct run, the duct diameter gets shrunk at a spot (a pinch point), this is not a serious obstacle. (web search "Venturi Effect" to read about air flowing around a point obstacle). Not a problem for air flowing through, but nobody will guarantee that the audible noise in the kitchen will remain low noise or pleasant.

    A duct could be made one size larger than the specified size. But not several sizes larger. If the duct is massively overdimensioned it can become too greasy inside (because in a duct that has fast-moving air, airborne specks of grease go straight outside). Microscopic grease particles, that filters won't catch, is what you perceive as "the smell of cooking". This smell *can* be eliminated but this costs so much that only a big restaurant might want to buy it.

    Your mission should you choose to accept it is to right size your duct, your blower, and your cooktop.

    Here is a link that might be useful: So how many CFM's do I really need (appliance forum)

    NOTES:

    remember before I pick out hood.
    clipped on: 09.30.2011 at 11:56 am    last updated on: 09.30.2011 at 11:56 am

    RE: Sigh - help make a hood decision :-) (Follow-Up #3)

    posted by: davidro1 on 09.28.2011 at 02:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

    House porosity is not a good thing because of the construction dust inside the wall cavities. You are better off opening a window even if the weather is too hot or too cold. Choose your air. Know where your air has been.

    Oversizing a blower is not a problem. You'll use the lower speeds more often. (Oversizing some other things does cause problems. (E.g. Air conditioning, if oversized, in a humid climate, gives you little to no dehumidifying so you feel clammy instead of comfortable.).).

    In Europe people eat good food too. They make do with less than 450 CFM in many expensive houses (that have room for wider ducting too). But, don't do anything just because wealthy people on another continent do it that way. Buy the bigger blower and enjoy it when you need it. I read here about someone who fried salmon in olive oil. I don't do that because salmon is greasy enough as is. Whatever floats your boat.

    To make the noise be mostly just wind moving and not any specific kind of motor hum or vibration, consider getting the blower installed in-line or outside ("external"). Moving the motor farther away gives you more room for other things up close. Either open space or more space in the upper cabinets.

    Finally, one thing that doesn't seem easy to get these days: a funnel shape of canopy so that the hood actually catches fast rising steam and grease, which comes in bursts sometimes. The filters are often built to be way too low down in the conical hood shape they sell you. There is a huge difference between a flat bottomed hood and another one that has a rim creating a few inches of space that catch smoke, greasy air and steam before the fan can suck it all away. (This problem disappears when you have a highest CFM blower and if it's already blowing at top speed when the burst of smoke happens.)

    NOTES:

    Things to remember when picking out a hood.
    clipped on: 09.30.2011 at 11:53 am    last updated on: 09.30.2011 at 11:54 am

    knobs/pulls made in USA list

    posted by: lynn85 on 09.29.2011 at 10:57 am in Kitchens Forum

    I have been searching for knobs/pulls for my cabinets and would really like to use those made in USA (I don't want to be touching these several times a day and not know if they contain lead from China). I have found a few manufacturers who make them here was just wondering if anyone else has found others they could add?

    These sites all have knobs made in the USA, SOME of them also have knobs made elsewhere, you just have to watch or call them to confirm.

    http://www.usa-knobs.com/usa-made-laurey-cimarron-collection.html

    http://www.colonialbronze.com/

    http://www.schaubandcompany.com/index.html

    http://www.mountainstreamforge.com

    http://www.horton-brasses.com/

    www.te-ma.com

    http://www.anneathome.com/content/index.cfm?fuseaction=showContent&contentID=47&navID=43

    NOTES:

    USA Made to check out
    clipped on: 09.30.2011 at 11:37 am    last updated on: 09.30.2011 at 11:38 am

    RE: fluorescent vs incandescent for main kitchen lighting (Follow-Up #12)

    posted by: marcydc on 06.28.2011 at 10:58 am in Kitchens Forum

    LED's have gotten affordable and dimmable. Check out the Cree CR6 if you are looking at cans.

    They came out just after I got my CREE LR6.

    I love the bright warm LED lights.

    Here is a link that might be useful: CREE CR6

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.29.2011 at 12:30 am    last updated on: 09.29.2011 at 12:30 am

    RE: XO Range Hoods Anyone? Like? Dislike? (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: sharonite on 08.11.2011 at 08:56 pm in Appliances Forum

    I have the XOP pyramid shaped hood over my 30 inch Wolf rangetop. It's 600 cfm and that's plenty for us. I rarely use all 4 burners at once. I can see the steam and smoke getting sucked up even on low setting (it has 3 settings). The light is also quite bright, which I like.

    I got the XO over the Zephyr of the same style because of the extra CFM, tough it was a bit more expensive.

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.27.2011 at 02:59 pm    last updated on: 09.27.2011 at 02:59 pm

    RE: A biased and situational appliance choice matrix. (Follow-Up #21)

    posted by: mtnfever on 08.10.2011 at 11:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Perhaps a little non-traditional for a kitchen appliance, but my first choice is the water softener we (meaning DH :) ) installed after a year in our new-to-us house with *extremely* hard water. Dealing with that awful water in the sink, DW, coffee maker, cooking, and don't even think about the fridge ice maker, was horrible. Extend that to the laundry and bathrooms, and yes I'd trade my wonderful cooktop to have softened water.

    Certainly in second place is the Monogram gas cooktop to replace the 30 year old electric smoothtop! Love love love it! Since the altitude (8200') loses us BTUs, a high output cooktop gets us at least to "normal" BTU levels. The DW is a very good Asko that is third behind the cooktop--handwashing cookware makes me very appreciative of *not* washing everything!

    The new-ish GE wall oven (old enough that the model is discontinued) works well enough that I don't feel I have to replace it: even heating, consistent temp. The fridge is new, only because our old one stuck out into the aisle 8-10", and is a middle-of-the-pack Samsung rather than the TOL or a SZ. So lump me in with the "eh" oven and fridge group.

    It's very interesting to see everyone's viewpoint and circumstances!

    cheers

    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 09.24.2011 at 10:02 pm    last updated on: 09.24.2011 at 10:02 pm

    RE: Is formal dining room dead? (Follow-Up #23)

    posted by: janralix on 09.21.2011 at 02:35 am in Kitchens Forum

    We're a couple only (in our 50's, no kids), have been in our house about 15 years, have a DR and LR but no DR or LR furniture (we eat in the kitchen and our den functions as our LR). We have larger groups over only about twice a year and then set up temporary tables in those rooms.

    So here's what we're doing: removing the wall between the 12' x 18' kitchen and 12' x 13' DR to make a 12' x 31' kitchen (with an island, peninsula, and room on both ends for seating and/or table areas) and converting the 14' x 20' LR to a formal DR (we're finally getting DR furniture to handle larger groups of people, even though it will be rarely used). So, we're a little different - getting a larger DR but losing a formal LR.

    When resale becomes necessary (hopefully 20+ years down the road, but you never know), our formal DR space could easily be converted back to LR use, but then there would be no DR.

    Our choice is a trade-off, but in our case we decided we would use a formal DR, even if only a few times a year, more than we ever would a LR (and aren't LR's falling out of use as well if one has a den or other living area?).

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    clipped on: 09.24.2011 at 02:41 pm    last updated on: 09.24.2011 at 02:41 pm

    RE: Our Dream Kitchen Finished (Follow-Up #13)

    posted by: davidro1 on 07.14.2011 at 10:48 am in Kitchens Forum

    i see that a lot of thought went into this. If my kitchen had a larger footprint this is similar to what i would have built. A lot of the functionality is built in architecturally instead of applied on top. I'll highlight some of the unusual aspects:

    drawer handles that don't catch garments.

    floor tiles with a subtle echo to these drawer handles.

    reflective surfaces, maximizing light.

    a "recessed" appliance garage. A useable counter sliver in front of it. (9"?) This is a big change (from the norm, and from the easiest). It makes the cooktop area less cramped, more open and unusual. In the third picture, this is what i see, along with the veining in the stone.


    a rolltop cover. The cover is white!

    all-drawers. I figure the sink drawers are 30 inches high.

    drawer heights all lined up. Straight sight lines. Easy on the eyes. (The loss is not a big deal: one may have to lay a blender on its side, and do a few other things to compensate, like storing some large items somewhere else.)

    a slim cooking exhaust air extraction "panel" not a visible hood. I'll guess that it slides out when in use.

    veining continuing across the three stone planes.

    alternating simplicity and complexity. One complements the other, or compensates for the other. Most of the color and finish is of such a reduced set that it calls out for something else to compensate. You get it in stone veining of great complexity. Ceiling floor walls and trim are "reduced set". Minor differences in the light white hues become an attractive element, visible to the user but not to us seeing photographs. Walls and backsplash are reflective surfaces (you can see yourself) but not outright mirrors. Backsplash, a deliberately darker color, is simple. Grout is the same color, dark in the backsplash, white in the floor. There is only one main attraction. The stone is the main attraction.

    pendants in three's. Soft white light bulb covers that let most of the light out. Reflected in the other surfaces.

    beveling the junction of the three stone planes so that the island looks somewhat like a piece of furniture. (This costs a few hundred more than the brute force alternative, a mere countertop plunked down on supporting panels, straight cut square butt end).

    on both sides the counter overhang wraps down and makes the side return panels bigger, as a way to define and enclose space in a area where there may feel to be too much "open space". The drawers become "contained" as if in INSET face-frame cabinets. This is quite an achievement because these are frameless cabinets

    a full wall of verticals, containing the fridge. The wall becomes a utility wall; the fridge becomes a subset of the wall's functionality.

    a corner pantry with five sides (like a corner tub, or "neo-angle" shower, a 5-sided shape that maximizes corners). So efficient! Just big enough to be arm-reachable. No walk-in standing around wasted space.

    a faucet with a reduced function set. (Once again, the tradeoffs are not big.) The angles of the handle and spout are just enough to help it all be "non-square" ; the rest of it is made of right-angled components echoing the entire kitchen. The handle is centered in front, the spout is slender, and the non-roundedness of every component make it more of everything you might wish for to match the inherent quality of the other architectural choices : unusual and unaverage.

    One of the four chairs can be placed somewhere else and the three remaining chairs still occupy the space perfectly: round chairs under round pendants.

    I'll guess that an electrical outlet is in the island, but only if you open a drawer.

    I'm glad you posted this.

    Hth

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    clipped on: 09.23.2011 at 09:33 am    last updated on: 09.23.2011 at 09:33 am

    RE: LED Recessed Light (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: davidtay on 08.22.2011 at 05:14 pm in Lighting Forum

    For LED recessed lights you need the following
    1. Can housing rated airtite & direct insulation contact (IC) -which could also mean title 24 compliant can.
    2. LED module that will fit inside the can.

    You will not need the trim ring if you purchase Cree LR6/ CR6.

    You can find all the components on polar-ray.com or other similar web sites.

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    clipped on: 09.22.2011 at 08:22 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2011 at 08:22 pm

    RE: Help needed for undercabinet lighting choice (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: davidtay on 08.29.2011 at 01:23 am in Lighting Forum

    The Philips eW profile powercore is a good place to start. The lights are dimmable.
    Other choices include Talea-HP, MaxLite,...

    (imo)
    I would avoid the LED strips from either Home Depot or Lowes. I wasn't too impressed by the products from Kichler.

    Other tips
    Try to have the lights joined end to end to avoid dark spots.
    If you have a corner, the lights should be placed like a L if possible to minimize the shadow zone.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Philips eW Profile powercore

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    clipped on: 09.22.2011 at 08:15 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2011 at 08:15 pm

    RE: LED A19 bulb in flush mount ceiling light (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: davidtay on 09.06.2011 at 11:07 pm in Lighting Forum

    If you can wait until Dec 2011, philip's L prize winner will be available. I would not recommend spending too much on a19 led bulbs at this point in time, given the talk of more efficient bulbs and a significantly lower price point of $10 to $20 by the year's end.

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    clipped on: 09.22.2011 at 08:04 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2011 at 08:04 pm

    RE: Is Under Cabinet Lighting worth it? (Follow-Up #8)

    posted by: davidtay on 09.12.2011 at 11:04 am in Lighting Forum

    Cons
    Flexible strips tend to have lower light output since the conductors cannot dissipate as much heat and carry less current.

    The strips need to be handled with some amount of care to avoid breaking smd (surface mount device) solder joints.

    The bending direction is most likely orthogonal to the direction you would like the strip to bend.

    Pros
    They are more easily cut, which probably works better for some.

    The profile is significantly lower. Can be used at the toe kick.

    They also cost less (in general).

    I would strongly recommend pricing several alternatives
    1. Do a mock layout of strips (sized to fit). The strips may come in 6", 12", ... sections, depending on who you get them from. You need to confirm with your cabinet maker whether the cabinets have a flat bottom all the way (cabinets 15, 14). Cabinet 12 could be on a separate run.
    2. Count all the strips and interconnects under the cabinet.
    3. Plan the location of your transformer (assuming low voltage). It needs to be accessible.
    4. Estimate the length of wiring needed.
    5. Figure out the gauge of the wire given the total length, power consumption of each run. EnvironmentalLights has a nice table to help. The calculations are available on other sites too.
    6. Add 10 - 15% margin to get the size of the dimming power supply.
    7. Depending on the power supply, you will either use an electronic low voltage (ELV) or magnetic low voltage (MLV) dimmer. Never use an incandescent dimmer.

    For the eW PowerCore profile from Philips, you just need to figure out the lengths needed, number of interconects and the place where the (AC 120v) wire will come out from the wall. It uses a ELV dimmer.

    If you intend to light the toe kick, plan on having a separate circuit. Most likely, you'll need to use flexible light strips for that area.

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    clipped on: 09.22.2011 at 07:58 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2011 at 07:58 pm

    RE: My biggest money saving tips (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: grainlady on 07.08.2011 at 05:10 am in Money Saving Tips Forum

    If you think that's impressive, wait until you discover LED lights. They are improving them all the time, prices are getting more reasonable, and we have about 50% of our CFL replaced with LED bulbs.

    CFL use about 25% of the electricity of an incandescent, while an LED light uses about 2%. So look at the money you can save there.

    LED lights use 1/50 of the energy of a standard bulb and last 10 times longer than their CFL alternatives. LEDs can last 15 years. They are much safer to use where a CFL could accidentally get broken (lamps, children's rooms). There won't be any concern with mercury when you use LED lights.

    LED lights come on instantly, unlike CFL, especially when installed in a cold room. Nothing like that ghastly orange/pink glow first thing in the morning in the bathroom, cast by CFL. They can't get rid of stupid mercury-containing CFL soon enough for me, and replace them with LED!!!! We have to bag burned-out CFL and take them to the hazardous waste collection site to dispose of them.

    We've been using CFL since they became affordable - back in the 1990's - long before "light bulb socialism" came into existence.

    -Grainlady

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    clipped on: 09.22.2011 at 07:35 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2011 at 07:36 pm

    RE: Lighting (Follow-Up #14)

    posted by: littlesmokie on 09.22.2011 at 04:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

    echoing palimpsest, mtnrdredux, and brianadarnell here...

    According to the kitchen designer (and separate lighting designer we worked with,) 5" were recommended for general kitchen lighting. (4" is more directed/task lighting.)

    Apologies to those who have them (and we had them, too!) I've heard 6" cans referred to as "cheap/builder grade" (or "dated" as above posters noted) by these same individuals.

    We used 5" cans throughout the kitchen + 4" cans just above the island. (And I really went back and forth about the decision whether to use all 5", or a combo of two. I think I should have done all 5")

    I hate, hate, hate recessed lighting (We have an old house, so I have a knee-jerk, "ack it's too modern!" sensibility.) Nonetheless, we got talked into cans for the kitchen (and more than I wanted!)

    The first time I saw the space at night, I realized we should have used MORE cans!

    You cannot have too much light. You could always put your lights on a dimmer (and/or use lower watt bulbs) if they seem too bright now, but your older eyes (or the eyes of your home's future occupants) will thank you later :)

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    clipped on: 09.22.2011 at 06:43 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2011 at 06:43 pm

    RE: DIY backsplash question (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: kathec on 07.22.2011 at 02:27 am in Kitchens Forum

    There are spacers you can buy that push your outlets out so they're in line with the tile. I just bought some at Lowe's last night, so it's pretty fresh in my mind. The kind I got are Ideal brand outlet spacers. Some people call them caterpillars. They are a bright flourescent yellow/green color that you fold like a fan and snap over the screw. Each segment is 1/8", so you just determine how many you need and cut to fit. I bought the larger pack of 25, I think they were about $6 a bag.

    I found them in the electrical section, but they can be hard to spot. Here's some pics to help you find them:
    Photobucket
    Photobucket

    Another thing, check out Bondera tile mat from Lowe's. Home Depot sells a similar product, but it's not as good. Bondera is great for a backsplash or small project. It's just not recommended for areas that are in constant contact with water. Basically it's a double stick, foamy mat. You cut it to size, stick it to the wall, peel the protection film off and press your tile on. Beware, this stuff is super sticky and a bit hard to get off if you accidently get it on the counter. Ask me how I know this. Just have some Goo Gone handy. I used it to tile around my daughter's bathroom mirror. It worked great and has held up really well since I did it almost a year ago. Sorry no pics of it and DD is sleeping.

    Once you stick up the tiles, you can grout the same day, unlike traditional thin set where you have to wait.

    http://bonderatilematset.com/

    And although it may sound like I work for Lowes with all this free advertisement, I don't. It's just closer to me than the other guys.

    I've also attached a "how to" link for you.
    Good luck and post pics!

    Here is a link that might be useful: How to tile a backsplash

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    clipped on: 09.22.2011 at 12:07 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2011 at 12:07 pm

    RE: What is the Sweet Spot in value... (Follow-Up #9)

    posted by: kaismom on 03.08.2011 at 08:42 pm in Appliances Forum

    I have been looking at appliances for years. i thought I was doing my kitchen about 10 years ago but I only recently finished my kitchen. While waiting, I kept on looking and keeping my eyes open and learning about appliances.

    I spent my money on the integrated frig because the full integration was very worth it to me in the esthetics of the kitchen design. By the time I spent what I considered to be a "significant" amount of money on the cabinets, I did not want to look at the stainless refrigerator. BUT YMMV.... I did NOT want to see the ice dispenser on the frig. The price jump from a counter depth to fully integrated frig is $3000 or more with only minimally "more" function added to it, like plllog says! Not only that, the cabinet guy charges you for the panel....

    Some of the brands can have the paneled refrig recessed from the side panels giving you that gorgeous furniture look. This truly is an esthetic purchase without any added functional benefit! Each person has different criteria for what is acceptable and what is not.

    I also spent my money on the Miele Speed oven because I wanted a fully functioning second oven that doubled as MW to save space. Space consideration was driving the decision regarding 2 appliances, ie second oven plus the MW versus 1 that doubled as both!

    Both of these "expensive" appliances perform beautifully for me and it was very worth it to me. I really looked hard trying to save money to get what I wanted on these two appliances but I could not...

    I have had Miele, Asko, and Bosch DW... I took a new Bosch out of my house for performance issues that were less than optimal for me. The capacity was significantly less than the other brands. Sometimes, you just have to use the appliance to see how it works for you... I currently have a low to mid level Miele that replaced the "higher end" Bosch that I did not like. For me, Miele is performing better.

    I am an occasional baker, not an experienced baker. So I was okay with the oven that came with the all gas range. My home made pizzas and bread come out crusty and well baked out of the gas range. I don't bake nor know how to bake multi layered cakes. I do bake muffins, cookies, easy cakes. I don't know what it is to have a super expensive oven! I have not tried to bake bread in my speed oven. I don't think it has enough oomph even though it is a 240V. I could be wrong.

    One of the important things about good ovens is the heat recovery. I actually have a gas oven (all gas range) with 30k BTU burner. These ovens have amazing heat recovery. It probably is no where as accurate as the more expensive electric ovens. I am sure the temp goes up and down far more than acceptable for experienced bakers on the forum. (it seems steady enough to me but i just don't know)

    Better electric ovens will have 10 pass, 12 pass broiler, again, giving you impressive broiling performance. I have infrared broiler in the gas oven which gives an amazing performance.

    I think for me, the sweet spot in value is my heavy duty all gas range: 10 year old Viking range that I have LOVED and kept because I did not want to spend more money to replace what I already have and like. I would happily purchase another gas range, which is a value to me because it would be much more expensive to buy a comparable cooktop and a separate oven... I also like the esthetics of a range. I like the performance of a range when meats and fish go from the cooktop to the oven quickly.
    Hood: again, if you create a custom hood cover, then there is your budget that goes to the cabinet guy. Even though the insert may not be expensive, the total hood expenditure is high! Again, it is the esthetics driving your purchase decision.

    Good luck.

    NOTES:

    Appliance help.
    clipped on: 09.21.2011 at 12:01 pm    last updated on: 09.21.2011 at 12:02 pm

    RE: What is the Sweet Spot in value... (Follow-Up #6)

    posted by: plllog on 03.07.2011 at 06:15 am in Appliances Forum

    Actually, the biggest difference is in ovens. Fridges, dishwashers and induction cooktops have diminishing returns as they get more expensive. The tops of the lines have lots of nifty features, plus more likely to accept custom panels, but these are things you can live happily without and save a lot of money. (Says the person with the high end appliances. I love them, and their fancy features, and especially the panels, but I do recognize that they're not worth the money for most people.)

    Dishwashers probably have just as many differences as fridges, but there are a heck of a lot of fancy settings on a lot of dishwashers that no one ever uses, so people are just as happy with their mid-range ones. There may also be a difference in how quiet the DW is (or the fridge, for that matter), and other less tangible features, that some folks are willing to pay extra for and which those who don't want to pay for them are quite willing to live without. The fewest differences seem to be in induction cooktops, unless you're looking to self import a "zoneless" one. :) Except the dual compressor thing. That's worth spending the extra bucks on the fridge-freezer for, for sure.

    Oh, yes!! I have a Gaggenau combi-steam oven!! It is totally fabulous. It is so danged easy to blanch asparagus, for instance. I won't eat mushy asparagus, and it comes out perfectly in the steam oven. The "regenerate" setting is great for rewarming a plate of mixed foods so that they're all hot and none are overcooked or shriveled, or weird. And while my Gaggenau convection oven does roast and braise a treat, you can do just fine with a less precise oven. My number one priority in my remodel was the Gaggenau ovens, however. I waited to get the work done until I could have them do the digging for the plumbing. This is a major commitment. You can buy a high end range for the price of the combi-steam.

    Big piece of advice--ignore the rebates unless they allow you to get just what you want. There is no single maker that does a good enough job of everything. Go with your set pattern and get the best that fits in your budget in each category. Really.

    Jenny, Gas cooking is a whole different issue. I've heard (though haven't experienced) that the current gas ovens, especially the ones with convection, are pretty accurate and do a decent job. There are also dual fuel ranges, which have electric ovens. Sometimes those have problems with the heat causing problems for the electronics, but in general people like them. There are rangetops, which is the top section of a range with the knobs in front, and "drop-in" gas cooktops.

    When you're choosing gas cooking, there's burner configuration, power output, burner size, open vs. closed, simmer ability, separate simmer ring/stacked burner, burner shape (ring, star, etc.), etc., etc. Are you talking mid-range residential style unit, pro-look, or pro-style? Those categories come with different price ranges.

    I can't advise you about brands on these. Go to a website like Universal-AKB or AJMadison and take a look at what they're offering. Most of the mid-range stoves have the price posted. If it's "call for a quote" you can go ahead and call, but it's probably a high end unit.

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    clipped on: 09.21.2011 at 11:53 am    last updated on: 09.21.2011 at 11:53 am

    RE: What is the Sweet Spot in value... (Follow-Up #3)

    posted by: plllog on 03.06.2011 at 04:04 pm in Appliances Forum

    Stooxie has some great advice, but I think for every choice there is a mid-range which is good enough without being top tier.

    The big difference between induction cooktops is in the features and controls. You can play the "more power" game, but at a certain level there isn't much noticable difference for going for more power. The listed top amount is only available under certain circumstances. If you're looking at overall power, the amount of sharing between paired elements is likely to have a bigger impact on your cooking. Having more power steps (17 instead of 9, for the main controls), means better controls, but most of them have that now, though some of them make you look around in the instructions to figure it out, and only tell you they have the 9, not including the half steps that get you 17. Countdown timers let you set an element to turn off after a time. Turns your cooktop into an automatic rice cooker or egg boiler. These are nice, but not essential. The rest is how you like the way the controls operate, etc., and if there are features like fry control or child lockout that you're looking for. The actual cooking on the most expensive unit vs. the low-mid-range is pretty small.

    Some of the biggest cooking differences are in tolerance. Some units detect and work on less optimal pans, where others reject them, and some let you lift a pan off for a few seconds without turning off, while others shut off right away. I don't think that correlates much with price, other than that the higher end is potentially more responsive to consumer feedback, and "fixes" issues, and at the very low end, they may get the most out of an established technology before changing it.

    For fridges, there is a significant difference in features when you get to the top tier, but there are many perfectly good refrigerators in the mid-range, and the cheapest one will keep stuff cold. On the cusp between the mid and high range are built-ins like the Thermador and Liebherr, which have a few less bells and whistles, but have the look and configuration that a lot of high end customers demand, with a more accessible price. If your wife really wants the combined unit, do get one with dual compressors. It makes a big difference. That said, most people are very happy with their mid-range fridges, and the fancy lighting, air and water filters, supercooling button, temperature zones, etc., while lovely to have, aren't really required to have a happy life.

    Speedovens cost a lot more than microwaves. If you're going to use the features, they're great. I can say that my Advantium on MW only is the best microwave I've ever used. I suppose that is the mid-range, compared to the Miele, or especially the Turbochef. I think Electrolux and Thermador also have one now.

    People here love Miele dishwashers, and seem just as happy, or happier with their mid-range models. The favorite American dishwasher (with heating element) seems to be the KitchenAid, which also has good entries in several different price points.

    Ovens and hoods are the hardest ones. If you don't bake, you can probably make do with any oven, but they currently design ovens towards energy standards rather than for cooking. The mid-range favorites seem to be Fisher & Paykel (though one member had trouble with the enamel interior flaking from the self-clean cycle) and Electrolux. Gaggenau and Wolf seem to be the overall best rated ones, but they're definitely more expensive, and might be diminishing returns if you're not rabid about ovens.

    For a standard induction cooktop, any 600 cfm hood is probably adequate unless you do a lot of high heat, multipot, frying, charring, boil-ups. Recommendation is to have a few extra inches of hood in all directions for best capture. Do check out make-up air requirements if your house is well sealed. Given the function of the hood and anything else in the HVAC that you need to address, the rest of the price is for looks. You can have the exterior be a piece of custom artwork, choose your own materials from a list for semi-custom, or buy one that comes in a box with a standard look that you like. I think they even have them at Costco. A little too much power is better than too little. Other differences are whether there are continuous controls (vs. a few settings--some people add a continuous control after market), lights that you like, and style of filter/easy of cleaning.

    Conclusion, yes, I think you can find a sweet spot on pricing, but you'll have to evaluate what that is for each appliance you're looking at. Have fun shopping!

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    clipped on: 09.20.2011 at 07:58 pm    last updated on: 09.20.2011 at 07:58 pm

    RE: dual fuel range,kenmore pro 30 or 36 inch,79523,79623 (Follow-Up #3)

    posted by: v20clc on 03.01.2011 at 10:15 pm in Appliances Forum

    Hi, I lurked on here last year while our kitchen remodel was in full swing. At the time I noticed there wasn't much feedback about these ranges...we purchased a 30" dual fuel model anyway and we've been pretty happy with it.

    Likes:
    - the bridge burner and griddle
    - 18K BTU burner for wok cooking and water boiling
    - analog oven temp dial
    - convection oven
    - in-oven temp probe for roasts
    - looks

    Dislikes:
    - oven racks a little sticky pulling in and out, wish it had the roller racks
    - lack of fine burner control on the back left burner
    - ceramic range top kind of a pain to keep clean

    I found out that these ranges are made by Electrolux in Canada. The Pro ranges are essentially rebranded Electrolux Icon ranges with a few different bells/whistles.

    We got it from Sears for about $2800 on sale and at that price it was a no-brainer. If you can get it for that or less, I'd think its a great value for a pro-style range.

    Hope this helps.

    Chris

    NOTES:

    Kenmore by Electrolux in Canada
    clipped on: 09.20.2011 at 05:13 pm    last updated on: 09.20.2011 at 05:14 pm