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RE: Best Granite Sealer (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: stonegirl on 06.04.2009 at 11:43 am in Kitchens Forum

Oh boy! That is almost like asking what is the best car! There are very many choices and very many really good products out there. You could probably ask 10 different stone guys and have about 15 different recommendations.

StoneTech makes good sealers, as does Miracle. Dry-Treat is one often mentioned and of course STT sealers, although the last two are geared more to supplying the fabricator than the homeowner.

Sealers that I would never recommend are the products from the TileLab range you find at Home Depot. They are very low in solid content and are ineffective at best.

Whatever sealer you use, read and follow the instructions carefully and be sure to buff off all excess sealer. For maximum effectiveness, each application of sealer needs to fully cure before the next application - normally about 24 hours.

Here is a how-to for sealing:
You will need the following:
1. Home improvement strength alcohol
2. Lint-free rags or unprinted paper towels (the "Rags in a Box" disposable paper rags found at home improvement stores are really great for this)
4. Paint pad (those hard, fluffy coated pads they use to apply paint)
3. Sealer

What to do:
1. Clean your counter tops by wiping them down to remove any food residue.
2. Wipe the counters with a rag soaked in alcohol. (Be sure to follow the safety instructions on the container)
3. Once the counters are clean and dry, apply the sealer with the paint pad. You can pour a little puddle and spread it with the paint pad. Work in smaller, manageable areas.
4. Leave the sealer for the recommended time and buff off the residue with the lint-free rags. Be sure to TOTALLY remove all excess sealer or you might end up with streakiness and smudginess. Change rags often to prevent smearing excess sealer.
5. Repeat steps 3 & 4 until all your surfaces are sealed.
6. Leave sealer to cure for 24 hours and test for water absorption. Drip water on the stone to see if the stone still darkens. If it does, another application of sealer is in order.
7. Repeat the entire procedure until water beads up and no longer darkens the stone.

Do not think that more is better. Work with smaller quantities of sealer and properly clean up after each application. Your results will be better than trying a single , heavy handed application.

For daily cleaning, just use a couple microfiber towels (one dry and one slightly damp) Clean counters with the damp one - you could add some soap to it if you wished - and buff dry with the dry rag. No fuss, and pretty easy

You could use a product like StoneTech's Revitalizer or the 3-in-1 from Granquartz as an occasional sealer maintenance cleaner

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clipped on: 12.02.2012 at 07:44 am    last updated on: 12.02.2012 at 07:44 am

plan for cabinet pulls -- all the same length? opinions, please!

posted by: eastbaymom on 04.28.2010 at 02:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

So, I know that placing cabinet pulls is an art and a matter of taste, but I wanted to hear how others have approached this.

We are getting Cherry cabinets in a Shaker door style with a solid wood reverse panel. Stainless appliances.

I don't want to go too modern, but I don't like the look of a mix of knobs and pulls, and there are a few places where I would not want to put pulls -- like on the tilt-forward shelf under the sink, and on the pullout trash.

I'm thinking that I will go with all pulls, and it would be easiest of I could use the same width of pulls on all the drawers and cabinets. Except for on drawers and the two spots mentioned above, I think I will install vertically.

Here's the question, though -- my drawers range from 12" to 18" wide, and the tilt-forward under the sink is 33" wide. Can I use 128 mm pulls everywhere? Or would that look funny to your eye, with more space on either side of the pull on the 18" drawer, compared with on the 12" drawer? Would you put two pulls on the tilt-forward under the sink?

Would you put the pulls in the center of the drawers (in the middle of the recessed panel) or in the center of the top stile of the cabinet? I have read that it's not wise to put pulls in the recessed panels, but these are solid wood panels and not plywood with veneer.

All opinions welcome!

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clipped on: 11.21.2012 at 02:19 pm    last updated on: 11.21.2012 at 02:19 pm

Show me your cabinet knobs and pulls!!

posted by: hags00 on 08.10.2012 at 10:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

Had to keep it clean ladies and gents! Restarting this thread per a couple of requests to make it easy to find!

Show those of us in the planning or implementing phase some beautiful (and not so beautiful) pictures!

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clipped on: 11.20.2012 at 05:05 pm    last updated on: 11.20.2012 at 05:05 pm

RE: Show me your cabinet knobs and pulls!! (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: theanimala on 08.15.2012 at 07:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

Don't have a better/closer picture unfortunately. These are the Princetonian from Top Knobs, all placed horizontally.

Photobucket

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clipped on: 10.29.2012 at 11:05 pm    last updated on: 10.29.2012 at 11:06 pm

RE: small kitchen finally done! pics (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: rhome410 on 04.19.2012 at 02:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

That is an impressive change!!!! Beautiful. And I love your gorgeous little table.

If you'd like to post a few of the actual photos, just copy and paste the HTML codes into your post.

I hope this isn't stepping on your toes, but here are a couple to start, because I know people like to see photos...a before and an after:

B. nook before opening the wall

A. finished view from nook

I can just gaze and gaze at your 'after.' It's such a warm and comfortable looking space. You countertops are so great.

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clipped on: 04.20.2012 at 04:15 pm    last updated on: 04.20.2012 at 04:15 pm

Where do you prefer your spices? LAYOUT

posted by: 2LittleFishies on 03.21.2012 at 10:37 am in Kitchens Forum

I'm planning the kitchen and am wondering if I should put my spices in the island where I'll be prepping, near the stove or in the pantry?

This is only the first draft... There will be changes- Of course if you see any issues feel free to comment.

Photobucket

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clipped on: 03.22.2012 at 05:52 pm    last updated on: 03.22.2012 at 05:52 pm

Granite Edge Profiles

posted by: SugarCookies on 02.25.2012 at 07:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

Greetings all. I did do a search before posting to see if I could find anything on granite edge profiles and I didn't see any recent specific threads about what types of edge profiles are preferred these days. I have learned a ton from reading the posts here and I thank all of you for sharing your knowledge and experience.

I am having my granite fabricated on Monday so I still have until then to change my mind. I originally wanted ogee bullnose, but my fabricator tells me that kind of edge profile is out of style. He tells me that most of his customers are going with a large beveled edge profile.

My kitchen is going to be fairly modern with a bit of rustic charm in the cabinets. I am getting a stainless Viking range, vent hood, microwave and a stainless backsplash behind the range. The rest of the backsplash is going to be a mix of 1"x2" glass subway tiles with a few natural stone tiles. Modern, sleek stainless steel apron front sink. Tile floor.

My questions:

1. For those of you who have natural stone countertops, which edge profile did you decide on and are you happy with the results in your kitchen?

2. If you had it to do over again, would you choose the same edge profile and, if not, what would you change it to?

I am certain I'm just obsessing over a small detail that no one who sees it will care about, but it's my first reno and will have to last me a long time. I don't want to see the granite everyday and wish I had chosen a different edge profile. And, I'm sure you can tell I'm having trouble sticking with my decision. lol

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clipped on: 02.27.2012 at 05:22 pm    last updated on: 02.27.2012 at 05:22 pm

Those doing IKEA kitchens - please check in

posted by: teddychicago on 08.18.2008 at 02:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am curious how those installing IKEA kitchens are doing, especially those doing non-IKEA doors. How's it going? Any bumps on the road to new kitchen nirvana? I may be traveling your way in the near future! Thanks!

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clipped on: 01.27.2012 at 02:32 pm    last updated on: 01.27.2012 at 02:32 pm

Show me your kitchen lights!

posted by: kellienoelle on 01.15.2012 at 12:08 am in Kitchens Forum

I have been looking trying to figure out what I like, but most web sites don't have an image of them in a real kitchen. If you wouldn't mind sharing what you have, where you got it, what you love, and what you don't love about the lights in your kitchen. I am (I think) specifically looking for pendants to go over the island, a coordinating light to go over the sink, and undercabinet and lighted cabinet lights.

Show me what ya got! Show me what I should also probably get but don't even know about yet!

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clipped on: 01.17.2012 at 11:46 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2012 at 11:46 pm

Templating 411

posted by: ICFgreen on 01.04.2012 at 02:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi everyone,
We have a meeting tomorrow bright and early to do the templating for all our countertops. Mostly quartz with a little marble baking center and granite in the bathrooms.

This is the one and only time we're building. Any advice for things we should do/know/expect/ask when during this part of the process?

Thanks!

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clipped on: 01.04.2012 at 10:04 pm    last updated on: 01.04.2012 at 10:04 pm

Show us your under $20K kitchen, part 2

posted by: ccoombs1 on 08.29.2009 at 06:59 am in Kitchens Forum

The first "under $20K kitchen" thread was so popular but maxed out on the posts, so it has slipped WAY down. I thought I'd bring it back for anyone who missed it and needs some inspiration.

Cindy

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0810443618847.html

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clipped on: 01.02.2012 at 01:21 pm    last updated on: 01.02.2012 at 01:42 pm

Under 20k kitchen remodels

posted by: mobydog on 12.30.2011 at 05:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi All- There are some fabulous kitchen photos on this website that I adore...but I am looking for those that have remodeled their kitchens (including appliances) for 20k or under. I would love to see your pictures, supply lists (especially cabinets), etc. and hear how you saved money.

We have now ordered all of our appliances (7k for dishwasher, refrigetator, 36 inch viking range and vent hood- our big splurge) leaving us with 13k to do the rest ourselves. I have a little wiggle room to go over 20k but would like to try to stay as close as possible to that number.

Our aesthetic is white cabinets with wood stained island and hopefully granite counter tops. we have done whole house remodels before and are planning to save money by doing all the labor ourselves. As I have said in previous posts, we would consider IKEA or other RTA cabinets (though not interesed in ones made in China). Our cabinets are not reusable and our layout not functional so we will be changing our existing configuration.

Looking forward to hearing about your experiences. Thank you in advance.

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clipped on: 01.02.2012 at 01:36 pm    last updated on: 01.02.2012 at 01:36 pm

Scherrs vs Ikea vs Kraftmaid or other

posted by: chrisk327 on 01.13.2010 at 01:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

So, I'm switching houses, this time we're doing a whole house remodel. I'm excited and scared at the same time.

Either way, a new kitchen is coming, along with a lot of other house expenses. We want something that is budget friendly, doesn't have to be completly budget material.

I have Ikea currently, love the drawers, pantry and accessories. Not going to do the white painted doors again. Of the wood, we only "like" the Adel Medium brown, and are not in love iwth it the wood looks a little dead. May be an option but not first choice. Our old kitchen, which was done in ikea, I spent about $3500 on all the cabinets including a pantry wth pullouts.

How much do the other cabinet manufacturers cost? my inlaws paid about 10K for cherry kraftmaid cabinets for their kitchen, doesn't seem like a lot of cabinets, and low on options. The home depot guy did his kitchen with his discount at $12K and showed me the pictures of his small-medium kitchen. I was shocked at the cost.

I have more cabinets in my current kitchen and the new one should have a few more.

my question is
If I want a flat panel door, in cherry, with drawers and full extensions, what range should my budget be in?

I was origionally thinking I would be doing this for 8-10K essentially double to triple what ikea would run. Now it sounds like 15-20K.

I haven't gotten quotes yet, I'm still working on my plan. I'm just trying to see what I should be expecting. with the large discounts off of MSRP, and crazy upgrade costs, it seems very difficult to see if you're getting a fair deal.

I was considering Scherrs, are they any cheaper? I know they are high quality and custom. Quality I care about, custom not as much my kitchen can draw within the lines of a normal non-custom places.

What other frameless manufacturers are there?

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clipped on: 12.30.2011 at 09:07 am    last updated on: 12.30.2011 at 09:07 am

Was Scherr's Good to You?

posted by: bob_am on 03.21.2011 at 12:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are about to decide on a pretty large order of cabinets(21) from Scherr's, and are, of course, worried. I know I've read good things about them here, but at least with a local company, you can see what you're going to get. Was anyone disappointed in their order? How difficult was it to return something incorrect/damaged? I don't suppose there are any satisfied customers within two hours of Harrisburg, PA... We do plan to order samples.

I'm also curious if anyone has tried to settle in on a stain color from 1,000 miles away from the cabinet mfr.

Any feedback would be great for this kitchen forum irregular.

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clipped on: 12.30.2011 at 08:58 am    last updated on: 12.30.2011 at 08:58 am

Slashing costs on cabinets, is this ok?

posted by: beekeeperswife on 12.28.2011 at 07:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

My KD really wants the cabinets to not go to the ceiling for cost reasons. I want them up there. These are 9' ceilings. I have told him that the "all-the-way-up" is most important to me. So, we have just received round 2 of the drawings and cost estimates and we are getting much closer to the goal. He has kept the height, but changed the inset to overlay (not full overlay).

What do you think? It's what I have now, but will it look ok in the new house? Dare I ask what full overlay would cost? Would that look a lot better?

Every time he brings up, "if we reduce the height...." I just shut him down. I don't want to negotiate on this feature. He gets it now.

I guess I just need some reassurance that all will be fine.

Thanks
bee

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clipped on: 12.30.2011 at 08:27 am    last updated on: 12.30.2011 at 08:27 am

How To Use Ikea to Get a Custom Kitchen (High Quality)

posted by: davidro1 on 06.22.2011 at 07:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

this subject needs a thread of its own.

you can use Ikea
to save on costs, and
to get almost everything you could want... because Ikea leaves you with enough money to go get those things you really want, at another place.

Get from Ikea those parts and piece that you wish to use Ikea for, and buy the rest from other sources.

Example.
1/. buy the ikea bases
and
2a/. buy ikea-compatible drawer fronts and base cabinet doors from Scherr's and many others, or
2b/. make your own, or
2c/. hire a cabinet maker to make custom cabinet doors and drawer faces

Many people who say they got it at ikea did not buy their entire kitchen from ikea.

Many people who say they have Ikea, did not buy their entire kitchen there.

For those who don't know this, it needs to be said.
Ikea is never the place to go to, to get an entire kitchen.
Ikea is the place to go to, to get most of the things you need.
Ikea is the place to go to, to start your comparison shopping.
Ikea is the place to go to, to get ideas.

Hth

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clipped on: 12.21.2011 at 11:05 pm    last updated on: 12.29.2011 at 01:31 pm

Design around this #9, version 3 (pulling it all together)

posted by: kellienoelle on 12.23.2011 at 10:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

OK, so I am cheating by using the design around this title to get your attention. I am getting dangerously close to making some decisions, but don't fully trust my design sensibilities to know how it will all look pulled together. So, I am asking for the advice of those who are wiser.

So, the house is a typical 2 story house in Suburbia, USA built around 1990. It could be anywhere, but in this instance it is in the midwest. The styles around here tend to run to the traditional, but our couple are in their 30s and their taste steers to a bit more contemporary. They have no plans of moving anytime soon, but must still consider resale in the planning process, so they want to satisfy their own likes while still appealing to the masses. They have a pretty modest budget, the kitchen is relatively roomy with 11x13 cabinet area connected to 11x13 eat in area (which will mostly remain untouched). They are mostly following the existing layout (with a few minor changes) in the interest of keeping within the budget, plus it has served them well for several years. The following selections have brought them to the top (ok, a couple thousand over) their planned budget, so hopefully any suggestions will be comparably priced.

Cabinets are a shaker style in dark stained maple, but with the straight handle pulls. They will extend to the 9 feet ceilings but have a more traditional crown molding than that below. Some of the upper cabinets will be glass front. Considering painting the island a lighter color, possibly a really pale gray? Floors are existing oak stained a similar color to those below and it is not in the budget to change it.
Photobucket

The countertops will be granite in River White
Photobucket

The sink will be a stainless apron front with a contemporary feel
Photobucket

The backsplash will be glass subway tiles with a little hint of color around the kitchen. Still looking for some sort of "statement" tile to go behind the range and hood.
Photobucket

Pendant lights over the island
Photobucket
Walls are currently a pretty true gray, it is nice and took about 10 different swatches to pick one last year, so I would like to keep it if it would work
Photobucket

Appliances will be pretty standard (not professional) stainless steel.

OK, so suggestions or comments? I am a bit worried that the color palate may read a bit boring, but don't want to rope myself into something crazy that can't be easily changed that I will tire of in a year or two. Hopefully I can add color with accessories.

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clipped on: 12.29.2011 at 12:52 pm    last updated on: 12.29.2011 at 12:52 pm

Can I put an OTR Microwave/Convection Oven over counter instead?

posted by: bellajourney on 11.13.2011 at 01:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi everyone!

Forgive me if this is a silly question. We are remodeling our small kitchen and space it as a premium! I'd like to keep the countertops as clear as possible, and not have too many small appliances eating up space.

Can I purchase an OTR Microwave/Convection oven, and install it under a cabinet over a counter instead? Would that be totally silly? (We'd like to get a small range hood to go over our tall freestanding range instead of putting an OTR there.)

I can't seem to find an "over the counter" microwave/convection oven at all. And the countertop models seem to be Very deep (19 - 20" compared to 15 - 16" for an OTR), so that won't work, since I don't want it to jut out past the cabinets very far. We have a toddler, so putting it lower than the countertop isn't an option that I'm comfortable with.

What do you think?

Thank you!

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clipped on: 12.28.2011 at 03:28 am    last updated on: 12.28.2011 at 03:29 am

stained rift-cut oak veneer cabinets? pictures please!

posted by: chaparral on 12.09.2011 at 01:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hello--

We have decided to use rift-cut white oak veneer (vertical grain) on our cabinets with some sort of a stain. We will want to have a contrast to the floors, which are also oak. So actually we're evaluating flooring and cabinet colors at the same time. I love the look of a wenge-stained cabinet, though this might be a bit dark.

Does anyone have images of different color stained cabinets like this?

Thanks in advance!

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clipped on: 12.27.2011 at 10:17 pm    last updated on: 12.27.2011 at 10:17 pm

Drawers over pull outs in Cabinets

posted by: gardengirl53 on 03.01.2010 at 01:18 am in Kitchens Forum

I've been reading on GW about so many of you who prefer drawers over the slide outs in the bottom cabinets and have been trying to figure out why. I had drawer for my pots and pans in my last house and hated the way I had to lift everything out or cram stuff over to get out a pot that was on the bottom. My pot lids were the same way. What do all of you who love your drawers store in them? I would think you would have the same problem with just about everything. I'm wondering what I'm missing. I personally think the slide outs give you more access to and easier reach to most everything. I know it's a matter obviously of choice but I'm wondering if there is something I'm just not getting. I think the drawers are prettier and wish I did like them more. What are all of you storing in your bottom drawers? Thanks much.

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clipped on: 12.25.2011 at 06:25 pm    last updated on: 12.25.2011 at 06:25 pm

Will I have enough light if I don't want recessed cans???

posted by: borngrace on 04.17.2008 at 04:23 pm in Lighting Forum

We have an 1810 house and are doing a kitchen addition. It will have a tongue and groove ceiling. In my last kitchen in the old (even older 1745) house I messed up the lighting.

We had a ring of recessed fixtures and then a chandelier over the island. I never had enough light working on the perimeter of the kitchen -- maybe why I hated it. I never had enough light working at the sink - no task lighting.

This time I don't want to make that mistake again (although this room in general is much brighter - we will have a lot of dark surfaces absorbing light). But I really don't want the recessed ceiling lights. They just feel wrong for this period house. Can I get around it? How many ceiling mounted schoolhouse fixtures would I need if that is a good option - will it end up looking ridiculous (ie too many fixtures needed to get enough light)

Below is the floor plan. I am thinking chandelier over island and table. I want sconces mounted between windows on window wall (I've seen a pic and like it) and then where and how many ceiling fixtures? HELP
We have an 1810 house and are doing a kitchen addition. It will have a tongue and groove ceiling. In my last kitchen in the old (even older 1745) house I messed up the lighting.
We had a ring of recessed fixtures and then a chandelier over the island. I never had enough light working on the perimeter of the kitchen -- maybe why I hated it. I never had enough light working at the sink - no task lighting.

This time I don't want to make that mistake again (although this room in general is much brighter - we will have a lot of dark surfaces absorbing light). But I really don't want the recessed ceiling lights. They just feel wrong for this period house. Can I get around it? How many ceiling mounted schoolhouse fixtures would I need if that is a good option - will it end up looking ridiculous (ie too many fixtures needed to get enough light)

Below is the floor plan. I am thinking chandelier over island and table. I want sconces mounted between windows on window wall (I've seen a pic and like it) and then where and how many ceiling fixtures? HELP
floorplan
And finally -- do I "need" undercabinet lighting? I didn't have it in old house. I have very few uppers and I am a huge keep stuff out on counter person -- do they add enough light to be worth it? Are there any kinds that do not get hot?

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clipped on: 12.22.2011 at 11:18 am    last updated on: 12.22.2011 at 11:18 am

Pros and Cons of Recessed Lighting

posted by: lisadlu on 08.14.2010 at 05:53 pm in Lighting Forum

I was all set to do (6) recessed lights in my kitchen but am now seriously thinking of going with flushmount's for better, even lighting. My kitchen with breakfast area is 20'x 11', with the kitchen itself 11x11. I was going to do (6) can lights in the kitchen area and keep my 300watt fixture in the breakfast area part but I am concerned I will get shadows & too much heat from the can lights. I'd like to hear your opinions, pro and con, on your recessed lighting. I need to make a decision this weekend because electrician is coming Monday armed with the can lights! :)

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clipped on: 12.22.2011 at 11:05 am    last updated on: 12.22.2011 at 11:05 am

Pictures of Kitchens with no recessed lighting

posted by: kitchen2011 on 11.06.2011 at 08:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi there -

I seem to be the only one who isn't sure they want recessed lighting in their kitchen. I think it looks great in some places, but I am hoping for a very classic look in my kitchen, and recessed feels too modern.

Wondering if any of you like your non-recessed lighting solution and would be willing to post a picture or give me any ideas/suggestions. Pictures would be especially helpful! I'm posting this here, rather than in lighting, because the folks on this board seem to be so helpful with posting pictures of their completed kitchens.

I'll definitely need:


  • Task lighting over the sink - note there are windows, there an no cabinets, so undermount is not an option. I've shown pendants here but that's just an idea - not set in stone.

  • Task lighting over the counter to the right of the range. Same as above re: no undermounts.

  • Task lighting over the island - that will be a primary work space, so whatever I put there will have to allow for comfortable standing, so that would presumably be a flush mount or a high pendant.

  • Lighting for the back section by the door. There is an existing glass front cabinet I'm retaining there, which shows in the 2nd picture.

  • Lighting for the cabinet run that shows in the 2nd picture. This is at the bottom of the diagram. There are true uppers there, so that could be undermount, but I don't think that would give me enough light to see in to the cabinets.
  • My ceilings are 100" that's just shy of 8.5 ft. FYI the layout is set in stone, because the cabinets are already made.



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clipped on: 12.22.2011 at 10:45 am    last updated on: 12.22.2011 at 10:45 am

Layout 101

posted by: beekeeperswife on 10.11.2011 at 07:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

Alright, I never paid attention to all the layout posts. It's because I basically stink at it.

Now, it's time to cram. Tell me what to make sure doesn't happen if we are doing a build. What do "they" always do that is a no-no?

I have seen some of the no-nos when house shopping. But we are thinking of doing a semi-custom build. I'm not at the meeting but my dh is meeting with the builder right now to get some ideas. Oh no, can you imagine? I just need to have a list of the big things to watch out for.

The plan we are looking at is not an exterior kitchen, but the morning room is the exterior, and the kitchen opens up to that room.

I've got the basics, you know, the range with the larger hood,etc. But if you can, I would love to know what to watch out for.

If we decide to go for it, I will post a floor plan and get some cold hard feedback. But I thought you could make sure to give some basic layout 101 tips.

(Tomorrow is showing #9 on the current house, it's been listed since 10/3. I think they are all coming to see the kitchen and then find something to complain about...."no fence", "garage isn't big enough" (get a smaller truck is my response, I mean seriously).

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clipped on: 12.22.2011 at 08:03 am    last updated on: 12.22.2011 at 08:03 am

Thoughts on Porcelain Flooring that mimics wood?

posted by: doonie on 10.16.2011 at 10:44 am in Kitchens Forum

I got an email today from Ann Sachs showcasing their "wood-look" porcelain flooring. I think it's intriguing, but I'm not sure how it would work design-wise. Is it as neutral a flooring element as they are promoting it to be? I'm curious to hear opinions on this look. What sort of kitchen would this type of flooring look good with? There are 3 other colors, all lighter than this dark sample. It's easiest for me to envision the darker tiles, but I'm not sure how the lighter tiles would work in a space.

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

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clipped on: 12.22.2011 at 07:59 am    last updated on: 12.22.2011 at 07:59 am

Kitchen cabinets to the ceiling?

posted by: tncraft on 10.22.2011 at 06:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm new here. We're on the process of building a house. Right now, I feel like I need TONS of help. Please be patient with my questions because I plan on posting a lot. Thank you. :)

So, my first question, what do you think of kitchen cabinets all the way to the ceiling? I saw a house last weekend that had kitchen cabinets to its 10 ft ceiling. Now I'm thinking I want to do that too. We'll have a 9ft ceiling. lol.

Just tell me if I'm crazy. I'm doubting all my abilities to make choices right now. I didn't budget anything for an interior designer. Now I'm afraid to make choices. :(

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clipped on: 12.22.2011 at 07:49 am    last updated on: 12.22.2011 at 07:49 am

Single Bowl Sink - Will I Be Sorry?

posted by: Dolode on 10.30.2011 at 06:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

I would love your thoughts on your sink. We currently have a double bowl sink. If there are dishes on one side, I like having an open side that I can use the garbage disposal or drain pasta or fill a pot, etc. I thought I had decided I wanted to do a large single bowl sink in my remodel but now I am rethinking that. Will I miss having an unobstructed sink to use? If you went from a double bowl to a single bowl, are you happy?

Also, does anyone have any experience with a smart divide sink? It's a two bowl with a half height divider. I think that looks like a strong possibility.

Thanks in advance for your help!

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clipped on: 12.21.2011 at 11:50 pm    last updated on: 12.21.2011 at 11:50 pm

IKEA cabinets with custom doors?

posted by: CCinTX on 10.21.2011 at 07:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'd love to see and hear about any of your kitchens that have IKEA cabinets with custom doors and drawer fronts? How hard was it to make it work?

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clipped on: 12.21.2011 at 10:57 pm    last updated on: 12.21.2011 at 11:00 pm

Shiloh Cabinets - quality - and other ?

posted by: slowdowntohurryup on 12.02.2011 at 05:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

...stumbled across the Shiloh Cabinet line in a Kitchen showroom and in general came away very impressed. My questions are...

- We had looked at the Old World Style (painted) cabinets and was wondering if anybody else made anything comparable (these were nice - but may have a little too much distressing - as the doors literally have holes in them)
- Some of the other colors/styles werent too bad and we picked out an idea or two we liked...
- The company sold Kraftmaid as well and they said these were just above Kraftmaid - they did not price the Kraftmaid, but we did get a couple of quotes on the Shiloh..

- Are Shiloh cabinets only available through retail outlets, or can you go through the manufacturer and order them? Outside of contacting Shiloh looking for another dealer, we were wanting to compare Shiloh prices and havent been able to as of yet....if nothing else, we wouldnt mind taking a look at anything else another company may offer...

thanks

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clipped on: 12.21.2011 at 10:25 pm    last updated on: 12.21.2011 at 10:25 pm

New To Kitchens? Posting Pics? Read Me! [Help keep on Page 1]

posted by: buehl on 11.05.2011 at 10:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

Welcome! If you are new to the Kitchens Forum, you may find the following information and links helpful.

The Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)/Articles pages contain helpful information about how to navigate this site as well as the world of kitchen renovations.

The Kitchen Forum Acronyms will help you understand some of the acronyms used frequently in posts.

The Finished Kitchens Blog has pictures and information about many GW members' finished kitchens. Not only can you see them alphabetically, but there is also a category list if you're looking for specific things like a kitchen w/a Beverage Center or a kitchen w/a mix of dark and light cabinets. Access the FKB Categories Page via a link in the navigation panel on the right of any FKB page. Additionally, there is also a link to "In-Progress Kitchens" for those members' kitchens that are not quite ready for the FKB. There is also a link to "Coming Soon Kitchens" for those kitchens that are ready for the FKB but have not yet been added. To access the "In-Progress Kitchens", the "Coming Soon Kitchens", and the "FKB Categories", see the links in the navigation panel that is on the right side of each main FKB page.

The Appliances Forum is very useful when you have questions specific to appliances.

To start off the kitchen remodel process...take the Sweeby Test. Then, move on to Beginning a Kitchen Plan.

Other topics such as layouts, planning for storage, and stone materials are discussed in later topics in this thread. Even more information can be found by doing a search on the forum.

Tips:

  • Before posting a question, please search the forum. There's a very good chance someone has already asked the question.

  • When using the "search" function, be sure to use the search box on the bottom of the page, not the top!

  • Note, however, that you will probably have better luck searching if you use Google (or similar search engine) than if you use the Forum search function. When using Google, to limit your results to Garden Web, include the following in your search criteria: ***site:ths.gardenweb.com

  • In the Subject, the site changes the double quote used as the inches indicator (") to a single quote ('). We don't know why. To compensate, use two single quotes and it will appear as a double quote in the Subject. Luckily, the double quote works in the message box.

  • When composing a new thread, you have a couple of options:

    • Have replies emailed to you: check the box offering this option. However, you must have "Allow other users to send you email via forms at our site." box checked in your profile for this to work (see the "Your Profile" link at the very top of the page) [See the post later in this thread with the Subject: Getting Emails Sent To You...3-step Process]

    • Insert a link: When you "preview" your message, you will be provided with two boxes for a link...one is for the link itself and the second is for the name or description of the link.

  • When using the "Clip this post" option (far upper right corner of each post, small print), remember that only the current post is clipped, not the entire thread. Also, you are allowed a maximum of 50 clippings. Once you reach this max, you will no longer be able to clip or email posts.


How are the home page and the Forum organized? (based on the Kitchen Forum's FAQs entries)

  • The Kitchens Forum home page lists 30 thread titles, starting with those that don't yet have a response. After the unanswered threads, threads are listed in order of most recent response. That first page displays the last 2 hours or so of activity. (If there is no response to a thread in an hour or two, the unanswered thread usually starts to drop.)
  • Below the thread list are page numbers 1-67 for the total 67 pages of threads available -- capturing maybe 2 months or so of threads, less when the Forum is busy.
  • Below that (and at the top of the thread list as well) is a space for you to switch to the Conversations or Gallery "sides" - these are set up similarly but are not nearly as active.
  • Next down is a Search box -- very important! This is also the Search box you should use (not the one at the top of the page.)
    • Always refresh the page two or three times b/f assuming a thread has disappeared right after starting it.
    • As to searching...a thread will not be found doing a GW search for up to 24 hours after it has been started. This may seem too technical, but...searches are done against what are known as "indexes". Indexes use key fields/words to find things. iVillage only indexes threads once a day. So, that means that until your thread is "indexed", it won't show up in a search. If you start a thread just before the index is taken, you will be able to retrieve your thread by searching soon after creation. If, however, you start your thread right after the daily index, then you will have to wait almost 24 hours for the next index.

  • Next is a place for you to start a new thread. And finally there are some instructions and links at the bottom.


Kitchen Forum "Sides"

Discussions: This is the "side" you are on. It is for on-topic discussions concerning kitchens...renovations, use of, etc.

Conversations: This is the "side" where you can post off topic threads such as regional get-togethers and non-kitchen subjects.

Gallery: This is the "side" where members often post pictures...especially if you're posting a lot or a finished kitchen. (Note: This is where StarPooh, our FKB person, wants you to post your finished kitchen prior to having it added to the FKB.)


Again, welcome and good luck! The journey is wild, sometimes bumpy, but fun and very rewarding in the end!

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clipped on: 12.19.2011 at 11:15 pm    last updated on: 12.19.2011 at 11:15 pm

Certified Kitchen Designer or Higher Grade Cabinet?

posted by: cdina on 03.09.2009 at 08:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

My wife and I are planning a complete kitchen rennovation and we found a certified kitchen desiger who we love that only uses Brookhaven (Wood-Mode) framless/particle board cabinets. We have 3 other contractors that use, of course, 3 different framed/plywood construction cabinets: Holiday; Kraft Maid and Kingswood. Neither of these 3 contractors are kitchen designers and our space is only 10 x 12, so we need the right design!

Does anyone have any feelings one way or the other as respects the aforementioned 4 cabinet manufacturers and more specifically particle board versus plywood construction?

We thought that framed/plywood construction was more durable than particle board but we really like this kitchen designer and he swears by Brookhaven (Wood-Mode).

Any help would be most appreciated.

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clipped on: 12.19.2011 at 10:28 pm    last updated on: 12.19.2011 at 10:28 pm

Starmark vs Omega

posted by: saw50st8 on 12.21.2010 at 04:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

Assuming they were the same price (our quotes are fairly identical), which would you pick?

We are debating between the two and I'm just not sure.

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clipped on: 12.19.2011 at 09:44 pm    last updated on: 12.19.2011 at 09:44 pm

Plywood or particle board boxes on your kitchen cabs?

posted by: ni_2006 on 03.06.2008 at 07:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are trying to decide whether we should spend the extra 10-20% to upgrade to plywood frames. How many of you with new kitchens have plywood vs particle board? Is it worth upgrading to plywood?

I am sure this has been discussed many times before, but I was not able to find much information. Please help!

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clipped on: 12.19.2011 at 09:07 pm    last updated on: 12.19.2011 at 09:08 pm

Found a local custom cabinet guy.... how do you judge?

posted by: NYSteve on 03.08.2011 at 11:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

We got final construction drawings from the architect, which means we can now close on the kitchen design and cabinet vendor.

But we found a local custom cabinet maker -- YFD in West Haverstraw, NY. We met with him this evening. He seems to know his stuff and has clearly been in the business for a while. In addition to doing residential work, he does a lot of commercial work (hospitals, colleges, local hair salons, etc.) He had some good comments on details of our current kitchen design. Like many of the local custom cabinet makers, he builds the boxes and buys the doors and drawer heads, and finishes everything in his shop. He even took us on a tour of the shop (it was after hours) -- we saw a fairly impressive array of CNC machines, a finishing room, a finishing machine, saws, shapers, etc. Of course, we will be asking for references.

But... what questions should we be asking? And how do we compare him to the better known brands like Omega and Starmark, other than on price? The boxes are 3/4" plywood, frameless -- with dovetail drawer boxes, blumotion or accuride full extension soft close runners, etc. I like the idea of supporting a local vendor but want to make sure that the cabinets and finish are built to last.

Thanks... we're getting closer...

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clipped on: 12.19.2011 at 05:26 pm    last updated on: 12.19.2011 at 05:26 pm

Variables to think about when shopping for cabinets

posted by: aliris19 on 01.31.2011 at 12:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

I know this must have been delineated but I can't seem to find such a list. Please everyone, help me enlarge this list! I want to lay out all the various tradeoffs and decisions and differences to think about between stock cabinet lines and also stock vs custom cabinets...

I happen to have listed my choice or the seeming GW consensus first where I know it and where there is one, but I've tried to list the options I know about in order to generalize the list. Please feel free to copy the whole list and expand it if you like.

- box construction: dovetail, stapled, there was at least another common, higher-end style...
- box composition: plywood, solid wood, mdf, bamboo, others?
- cabinets and box interiors: birch ply or alder ply or other types -- does it matter??
- door and drawer fronts (also "face frame"): cherry or other wood type
- door front style: shaker v. many, many others
- door front panel composition: solid wood, mdf
- toekick: 3" (my preference); 4" is standard. Stock metric comes closer to 5"!
- counter height: 37" (my preference); 36" is standard - depends on users' height
- cabinet stack construction style: frameless, framed, inset
- hardware type: "Full" motion (is that 20"??); Blum brand is prefered
- hardware location: bottom of box (loose less space)
- hardware niceties: soft-close
- cab interiors: 3/4" ply
- shelving: 3/4" ply
- shelving type: fixed wood, ROTS, pegged height-options
- warranty: "lifetime" -- what does this mean, will the purveyor be around in a "lifetime"?
- finish: catalyzed varnish -- does this go on top of stain?, paint

Please help me improve this list -- expand it or refine it or flesh it out... thanks!!

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clipped on: 12.19.2011 at 04:56 pm    last updated on: 12.19.2011 at 04:56 pm

Ratings of Cabinet Manufacturers?

posted by: treegarden on 06.15.2009 at 12:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

We're doing a kitchen renovation, and have been researching cabinet manufacturers (and quickly becoming overwhelmed with the choices). I'd appreciate input on cabinet quality relative to price. I went to three kitchen stores this weekend, and will be getting quotes within a few days. But we're struggling with assessing the relative quality of the manufactuers. As reference: I'm interested in a frameless style, with full overlay. Planning to do maple cabinets, with a light colored stain.

What do you think of:
Brookhaven
Acorn
Crystal
Cabico
Signature
Medallion

What else would you suggest I look at? I was also contacted by a designer who offers KountryKraft custom cabinets (from PA). Thoughts?

I also looked at Candlelight -- but found out that they do not offer frameless.

Thanks!

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clipped on: 12.18.2011 at 10:11 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2011 at 10:11 pm

Relative cabinetry prices: brand vs. brand

posted by: stretchad on 03.29.2008 at 11:43 am in Kitchens Forum

We're going to redo our kitchen but aren't quite ready to approach Lowes/HD for quotes on cabinetry. I was wondering if anyone has sufficient knowledge to know which brands are generally cheaper or more expensive. My assumption is that ikea is the cheapest, but I'm not sure how it goes from there.

SO, can those of you who respond supply your ranking of cabinet brands from cheapest to priciest?
This might help those of us who are early in the planning stages...
Thanks!

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clipped on: 12.18.2011 at 10:11 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2011 at 10:11 pm

RE: flooring color help please (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: beekeeperswife on 10.28.2011 at 10:28 am in Kitchens Forum

I have cork in my kitchen. It is from US Floors, it is a floating system. (Planks) Have had zero problems with it. If there is a gouge in it, simple stain pen works. The floor is naturally warm and it is so much more comfortable underfoot than hard tile. My dh always complained about heel pain, he has noticed that since we installed the cork flooring, (almost 2 years ago) he has had no problems.

I have hardwood in the foyer, and the cork meets up with it. I just made sure that the cork was darker, and yet had the same undertones as that floor and it all works.

Also, my cork is completed factory sealed (top, bottom, ends, tongues and grooves) to prevent issues with liquids.

My only issue is that a dark floor shows every little bit of fuzz. And now that we are selling the house I really realize how much shows. Last thing before I leave when there is a showing is the final swifter-ing as I head out the door. But of course, I love this dark color and yes, I would do it again.

Bee

Here's a picture:

Photobucket

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clipped on: 12.18.2011 at 07:54 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2011 at 07:54 pm

Beekeeperswife -- question about your cork

posted by: lascatx on 11.11.2011 at 12:10 am in Kitchens Forum

I just realized (when searching Houzz) that I have picked exactly the same cork you have in your kitchen. That instantly made me feel better, but I still have a question. Did you notice any fading or change in your cork color after installation?

The reason I am asking is that what was delivered is darker and redder than any of the samples we saw. They are telling me it will all be fine. I think it still works with the island cherry and the red brick fireplace (not an easy combination) but it means the color transition from the hardwoods in the formal areas is not as close as I had been planning. I wanted a flow of similar/nearly the same color with a change in pattern and texture. I got the change in pattern and texture, but not quite the color. They don't make anything else close, so I think my choices are to keep the cork or change those rooms to wood matching the formals. But I really wanted the cork.

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clipped on: 12.18.2011 at 06:37 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2011 at 07:53 pm

Kitchen: wood floors vs tile

posted by: ynnej on 09.26.2011 at 11:42 am in Kitchens Forum

I am sure this topic has been covered but I would like to hear recent thoughts on it. Input appreciated :)

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clipped on: 12.18.2011 at 07:51 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2011 at 07:51 pm

9 ft ceilings and cabinets - show me!

posted by: cottonpenny on 12.01.2011 at 10:34 am in Kitchens Forum

If I have 9 foot ceilings in my new build and the counter is 36" off the floor, the uppers are 18" above that, and I get 42" uppers, I would have a space of 12" leftover to the ceiling. Is that all correct?

I don't think it will be in my budget to stack the cabinets to the ceiling. I don't like the look of a space.

Is 12" too far to use fascia/trim? What would that look like? Or do I have the builder build a soffit? Or drop the ceiling to 8 ft in the kitchen?

Anyone want to share pictures of what they did?

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clipped on: 12.18.2011 at 07:49 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2011 at 07:49 pm

Size of Recessed Lighting in Kitchen? Help Me!!

posted by: sthomas6978 on 11.09.2011 at 01:48 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are in the process of building and are now on the electrical. My brother, who is an electrician, thinks that we should put 6 inch recessed cans in the kitchen because of the ceiling height, which is 10 feet. I'm thinking that 6 inches is awfully big, but he says that the kitchen is well above normal ceiling height and that in most homes that is what his company is installing. What do you guys think?

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clipped on: 12.18.2011 at 07:48 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2011 at 07:48 pm

Mistakes that others can learn from

posted by: kellied on 11.10.2011 at 09:06 am in Kitchens Forum

I thought this would be a good topic to introduce, especially for those who are just getting started on their kitchen remodel.

My mistake when ordering the cabinet above the fridge was not taking into account what would be needed if we had to replace our current fridge. Cabinet was ordered for the height of what we have now and the majority of the fridges out there are half an inch too tall. Limits the selection of a replacement.

What mistakes have you made that others can learn from?

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clipped on: 12.18.2011 at 07:45 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2011 at 07:46 pm

How to reduce cabinet quote? What to eliminate?

posted by: minty19 on 11.18.2011 at 10:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

My cabinet quote is a few $K too high and wondering how to reduce the price without giving up too much of the extras...
I want painted inset doors and won't compromise on that.

My KD is suggesting eliminating the glass doors and end panels, and subbing doors for drawers in several places.. I'm getting confused about which upcharges cost the most $$. Are there easier things to give up than others? Any regrets?

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clipped on: 12.18.2011 at 07:45 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2011 at 07:45 pm

Where is your compost bucket?

posted by: domino3 on 11.20.2011 at 03:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi all -

I see a lot of 18 in trash pullouts in layouts here. I have been assuming that those contain one bin for trash and one bin for recycling. So I am wondering - where are your (food) compost buckets? In our area they have downsized our trash cans to encourage food composting so we have a bucket of compost every day or so. Are people keeping these under the sink in a pullout? (My kitchen will be small to medium sized so I don't have room for 2 trash pullouts which would of course be ideal). Mine sits in the left side of my double bowl sink but I'm planning a single bowl in the remodel...

Thanks!

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clipped on: 12.18.2011 at 07:44 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2011 at 07:44 pm

Where do you store your everyday plates, bowls & cups?

posted by: lynn2006 on 11.12.2011 at 04:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

Where do you store your everyday plates, bowls & cups?

Did you buy a pegged drawer to keep them in or do you keep them on a cabinet shelf or do you have some other kind of organization system? Thank you.

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clipped on: 12.18.2011 at 06:50 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2011 at 07:43 pm

Merillat Classic vs. Kitchencraft? And size of vent hood?

posted by: SusanCF on 11.06.2011 at 03:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi, I'm going to piggyback two kitchen questions in one here.

First, we are at the point where we've committed to a cabinet shop (paid a big deposit) and we need to place our order within the week. We are going semi-customized because we can't afford custom. This shop sells Merillat and Kitchencraft (and maybe others, but that's all we've looked at). Supposedly the Kitchencraft is 20% more than Merillat Classic, which is primarily what we've looked at. We are wondering if it's worth the boost in price.

Does anyone have any comments about these two brands in particular? We've looked for reviews on the web, and it seems that for every brand, there are "love it" and "hate it" reviews.

The picture below shows more or less what our kitchen will look like, except that I think we're going to ditch the glass fronts on the range-side cabinets, and the corner is going to have a TV shelf with a small cabinet above rather the corner cabinet now pictured. This is not our software, by the way -- it's the cabinet shop's rendering.

As a little bonus question: how important is it to have the vent hood for the range be 6" wider than the range? Both our architect and some people here have advised it, and I do a lot of stir frying. On the other hand, it looks a little bulky in the cabinet man's drawings. (The picture below is with a 30" hood for the 30" range; he hasn't yet sent me the version with the 36" hood.)

Photobucket

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clipped on: 12.18.2011 at 07:40 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2011 at 07:40 pm