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RE: Painting Stained Trim: Is this right? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: brushworks on 05.16.2009 at 01:42 pm in Paint Forum

Go back to Home Depot's caulk aisle.

Find DAP Dynaflex 230. It's an acrylic, elastomeric caulk.

That will take some practice too.
Be sure to snip the tip to about 1/8" working tip. A large cut will waste caulk.
Cut tip at a 45 degree angle and apply the caulk at that angle. Caulking is best done after primer. It adheres readily to primer. Wait at least 4 hours before painting over the caulk.

For deep voids, be sure to insert a caulking backer rod (foam like) to prevent sagging and excessive caulk use.

Apply caulk, wipe with damp finger or better than that, a small portion of a damp grouting sponge.

Use caulk on miters too!

Michael


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clipped on: 03.23.2010 at 12:33 pm    last updated on: 03.23.2010 at 12:33 pm

RE: Marble poultice (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mnhockeymom on 05.01.2008 at 07:14 am in Kitchens Forum

I cut and pasted some info into a Word doc that I saw on this forum - I can't give specific credit to anyone but here it is:

"Here's a poultice formula for coffee:
Make a solution of 20-30% peroxide (available at beauty supple places...wear gloves Mine is called Salon Care 30Extra Lift Volume Creme. Bought it at Sally's Beauty Supply Store.) and a few drops of ammonia. Then mix in some sort of WHITE "material;" e.g., paper towel, napkin, tissue. Make only enough to cover the stain. It should be paste-like (consistency of peanut butter).
Wet the stained area with distilled water. Pre-wetting fills the pores of the stone with water isolating the stain and accelerating the removal by the chemical.
Apply the poultice to the stain being careful not to spill any on the non stained areas. Apply approximately 1/4-inch thick over-lapping the stain area by about one inch.
Cover the poultice with plastic (food wrap works great). Tape the plastic down to seal the edges. It also helps to poke several small holes in the plastic so that the powder will dry out. Failure to do this may result in the poultice staying wet.
Allow the poultice to dry thoroughly. This is a very important step. The drying of the poultice is what pulls the stain from the stone into the poultice material. If the poultice is not allowed to dry, the stain may not be removed.
Drying usually takes from 24 to 48 hours.
Remove the poultice from the stain. Rinse with distilled water and buff dry with a soft cloth. If the stain is not removed, apply the poultice again. It may take up to five applications for difficult stains.

Here's some additional tips!
For the "white stuff" you are going to use for your poultice powder base ... get some diatomaceous earth ("DE"). You can get this really CHEAP at a pool supply store or free if you know someone with a pool that uses it. It is used in some pool filtering equipment. I went to the pool supply store and they gave me some since all I wanted was a small amount.
Good info on stain removal:
From www.stone-panels.com/details/stains.doc
Iron (rust) - Poultice with Oxalic Acid + Powder + Water. May also try a product called Iron-Out (available at hardware stores). Both mixtures may etch polished marble, so re-polishing will be necessary.
Ink - Poultice with Mineral Spirits or Methylene Chloride +Powder.
Oil - Poultice with Ammonia+ Powder Methylene Chloride can also be used on tough oil stains.
Coffee, Tea & Food - Poultice with 20 percent Hydrogen Peroxide + Powder.
Copper - Poultice with Ammonium Chloride + Powder
Paint (water-based) - poultice with a commercial paint remover + Powder
Paint (oil) - Poultice with Mineral Spirits + Powder. Deep stains may require Methylene Chloride.
HTH
MaryT"

Hope that helps!! Good Luck!!

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clipped on: 09.15.2008 at 07:59 am    last updated on: 09.15.2008 at 08:00 am

RE: Bluestar Scorched Stainless Steel Backguard (Follow-Up #36)

posted by: cpovey on 08.03.2006 at 11:19 am in Appliances Forum

Re scorch marks and other items,

First, the excellent picture posted by ramses 2 is the absolute worst case scenario. The Heritage has essentially zero clearance to the raised grill/broiler unit. Scorching you would get on a backstop is less.

Second, if you don't like scorching, get the island vent, and move your range an inch or so away from the non-combustible wall. Then tile the wall. That should pretty much eliminate the problem.

Third my comment of "Most here consider it a badge of honor!" contains both truth and a bit of tounge in cheek. To the OP, if you don't like it, that's fine, get something else. I do feel slightly insulted by the tone of your last comment.

For blue knobs, consider getting them painted by an autobody shop. I do not know how durable they would be, but is should be pretty good. You could always get a second set, get them painted as well, and swap them out as needed.

Finally, as to sheet metal, for plain sheet metal or sheet stainless, any local sheet metal shop should be able to help you very inexpensively. I have a piece that I got with a couple of bends and a folded edge for $20.

I also wanted a piece with a pattern embossed into it, and I found it cheaper on-line at Frigo designs. I guess that there is a lot of setup involved in the embossing, and a company that does it all the time can do it for less than a local shop.

By the way, Frigo Was an excellent company to deal with, the person I ordered from was actually intelligent and understood the complex shape I needed without an hours explanation, and they beat their time estimate by over a week! Highly recommended.

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clipped on: 08.03.2006 at 09:32 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2006 at 09:34 pm