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RE: Fig not fruiting (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: dieseler on 01.24.2012 at 09:57 am in Fig Forum

You can prune now however you wish to make tree look and its wise to do so now as its just a waste of tree energy to prune unwanted branches after the tree has pushed out new growth only to then shape it by pruning.

Once you have desired shape you prune again (5th leaf)
as posted in 1st reply for fig production during season.

Keep in mind you want the interior open so sun can penetrate into.
By cutting branches that are growing inwards and or crossing each other.

Also you can trim the very top of plant to height desired.

The horizontal branches you can prune to desired length. As the seasons go by and so the pruning you will notice on the horizontal growth how the new shoots grow some upwards some downwards some inwards and some outwards and prune accordingly.
Dormant time is time to clean up the tree sort to speak before it awakes.

You also want a balance of tree canopy and root system below in pot.
To much top growth not enough root system no good and vice a versa.

Also rootbound potted fig trees suffer eventually they must be pruned as well every so many years or tree will start to stress in growth and fig production and just get worse.

Inground trees roots can spread freely while potted ones encircle and choke each other and die.

As mention the pruning of limbs is done each year to keep tree in check .
Hope this helps.



clipped on: 09.24.2014 at 02:16 pm    last updated on: 09.24.2014 at 02:16 pm

RE: Wildlife/Gardens in Myrtle Beach SC? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: pameliap on 01.15.2008 at 06:37 am in Carolina Gardening Forum

You could try Waccattee Zoo. It's in Socastee off SC 707. It started as a family's effort to rescue injured animals such as deer, and expanded as they rescued animals from sideshows and small travelling shows. There's the neatest nesting area for white heron. I've been in the spring when they're nesting. You walk on a bridge that goes through the nest site. There are hundreds of white heron that come back every year to nest there.

Huntington Beach State Park is a beautiful natural area and there are alligator spotting areas (unlike the Gator World place or whatever it's called, these are free in the wild).

Murrell's Inlet is a good place for lunch and a walk on the Marsh Walk, plus there are some great old houses with huge sea oaks. Georgetown is down the road a bit, but has great historical houses. The waterfront has been a focus of a lot of interest in historical preservation.


clipped on: 01.15.2008 at 09:17 am    last updated on: 01.15.2008 at 09:17 am

RE: Rain Barrels (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: pfmastin on 01.04.2008 at 06:50 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

How to Make a Rain Barrel
Why Harvest Rainwater with Rain Barrels?
Residential irrigation can account for 40% of domestic water consumption in a given municipality. Rain barrels not only store water, they help decrease demand during the sweltering summer months. Depending on the size of your house and the amount of rainfall in your area, you can collect a substantial amount of rainwater with a simple system. If youre harvesting rainwater with rain barrels to use for watering your landscaping, the rainwater can help to improve the health of your gardens, lawns, and trees. Because it tends to have fewer sediments and dissolved salts than municipal water, rain water is ideal for a multitude of applications, including biodynamic and organic vegetable gardens, raised planter beds for botanicals, indoor tropicals like ferns and orchids, automobile washing, and cleaning household windows. Saving water in this manner will reduce your demand for treated tap water, and save money by lowering your monthly bill. Rain water diversion will also help decrease the burden on water treatment facilities and municipal drainage systems during storms
How Much Water Can You Collect in Rain Barrels During a Rainfall?
Believe it or not, for every inch of rain that falls on a catchment area of 1,000 square feet, you can expect to collect approximately 600 gallons of rainwater.
The type of gutter system you have is important, as many may have lead soldering or lead-based paints. Additionally, if you live in an area that produces heavy industrial pollution, your rainwater itself may contain some undesirable contaminants. Talk to your local municipal government about the issue of environmental contaminants in your area that may affect rainwater quality.
The location of you rain barrel is also a factor. Make sure you place it on level and stable ground. When your rain barrel is at maximum capacity, it will weigh quite a bit and tipping is a risk on un-level ground. If you dont have gutters, put the barrel under a valley in the roof that sheds a lot of water.
***Safety and Maintenance Concerns***
Water stored in any kind of container represents a risk for small children. Children can drown in as little just a few inches water. Additionally, animals both wild and domestic may become trapped and drown in your barrels if uncovered. Therefore, you should never use an open container for rainwater collection. Make sure you have some way to cover the barrel with a screen or a top. Standing water is also where mosquitoes breed best. As the West Nile virus and other diseases are important concerns these days, youll need to take appropriate measures to deter mosquitoes from breeding in your rain barrels. It only takes about ten days for mosquitoes to breed, so you should ideally empty the water in less than ten days. You should also use a fine screen over the top of the barrel so the mosquitoes cant reach the water in the first place.

These are the instructions for a simple rain barrel. There are embellishments that can be made such as linking barrels to increase storage capacity, adding an overflow pipe, etc., but this will be a good start on water conservation in the garden.

You will need:

(1) Empty 55 gallon plastic barrel
(1) 1/2" brass hose bibb; Male IPS (plumbing department)
(1) 5/8" X 2 " X 1/8" Rubber Washer (hardware department)
(2) 5/8" Conduit Locknuts (electrical department)
(1) Fiberglass window screen - 36" wide
(1) Long bungee cord or (2) shorter ones (to fit perimeter of barrel)

Saber Saw
Drill with a 1" bit
Wrench to tighten locknuts

Step by step instructions:

1. Start with a plastic 55 gallon drum (food grade if possible)

2. Carefully cut out and remove the top of the barrel using a saber saw.

3. Thoroughly wash the interior with warm soapy water and rinse 3 times with clear water. A power sprayer works great.

4. Drill a hole in the side of the barrel approximately 4-8 inches from bottom. The lower the hold the more water capacity you will have. Drill straight intry not to drill in at an angle. It will be easier to insert the hose bibb.

5. From the outside of the barrel, insert the male part of the hose bibb into the drilled hole.

6. From the inside of the barrel, push the rubber washer onto the male threads of the hose bibb (you may have to enlarge the hole in the washer with scissors; thread the locknuts onto the male threads of the hose bibb, placing them "back to back" against each other and tighten with a wrench.

8. Cut to size the fiberglass window screen allowing 6 inches of overhang around top of barrel.

9. If you like, drill a series of small holes about an inch below the barrel rim for overflow. Otherwise, it will just overflow at the top.

10. Fit the bungee cord around the barrel, securing the screen. Pull edges to tighten screen across top of barrel and trim the edges.

10. Position barrel under eave of house or under downspout to receive roof runoff. Raise the barrel off ground using concrete blocks, bricks, etc. so that gravity will feed the water flow.


clipped on: 01.05.2008 at 10:16 am    last updated on: 01.05.2008 at 10:16 am

RE: Poncirus Trifoliata? (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: hersh67 on 11.03.2004 at 03:31 pm in Edible Landscape Forum

Since a few of you are interested in how to make Poncirus fruit not only tolerable, but delicious I will post my findings from over the last three years.
I wait until the fruit drops from the tree. It has developed its full flavor and fragrance by this time. Wash the fruit well to get any dirt and sand off. Cull out any that have soft brown spots (these are beginning to rot).
I use 30 of the ping-pong size fruit per batch. Make a cut equatorially around each orange and twist the halves apart.
By hand, squeeze and pinch the seeds and sparse juice into a large measuring cup. When all are squeezed and picked free of seeds, I immerse each halfshell in purified water and scrub each with a homemade lime reamer. The regular hand juicers are too big. This gets most of the acid juice free of the shells. Use this water to leach the seeds and pulp to get the acid juice from them also. Save all of these washings for later. You will need all the juice you can scavange for the marmalade, so a second wash and rinse of both shells and seeds is good.
From here you can either discard the rinds and have a wonderful fragrant fruit-ade base, or save both the juice and half-shells and go on to make marmalade. Now comes the interesting part. The peels are much too bitter to use as is (at least for me), so you must get some of the bitter out now. I parboil the shells by putting them in a big two quart pyrex measuring cup and pouring boiling water over them. Then I put the whole thing in a miocrowave oven and heat until it comes back to boiling. I drain off the very bitter liquid and pour more boiling water over the shells again. Have a big pot full of boiling water going because you will need to repeat the blanching at least five to seven times, just like the first time. After about four blanchings, start tasting the water until the blanch is at least tolerably bitter. During the blanching do not cook the shells too much or that will take out the pectin as well as the bitter. Now you can add four cups of sugar and cover with some of the dilute juice you saved. Cook on slow to soften the rinds and when thick and softened, either hand slice very thin or slice in a food processor. Remove about a third of the sliced material and set aside. Puree the rest and combine the two portions and cook. You should still have some dilute juice left, so as the mash cooks down, keep adding it until it is all in the mix. I cook on defrost or low in the microwave for several hours, stirring to prevent burning. As the marmalade matures, it gets a rich brown and thick. When it is done to suit you, spoon it into sterilized jam jars and seal. I found that in order to check for the proper flavor it is best to cool the marmalade before tasting. Makes about three pints. The resin on your utensiles will wash off with alcohol or acetone. Unfortunately, some utensiles ar also soluble in acetone, so if they are not glass, polyethylene or stainless it is best to use alcohol.
Let me know how yours turns out. Maybe make a little (1/4 batch) first to see if you like it.


clipped on: 11.18.2007 at 08:59 pm    last updated on: 11.18.2007 at 08:59 pm

coping vhs to dvd - do-it-yourself (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: on 10.13.2007 at 01:18 am in Carolina Gardening Forum

Several of our members here asked about the procedure to convert VHS to DVD without a video card. It's pretty easy for you to do it by your self if you have the following items (without an expensive video card) and follow the instruction below:
Hardware requirements:
1.Powerful PC for video capturing and edtting;
2.Firewire (I1394) port
3.Digital Camcorder with AV in/out
4.VHS player (VCR)

Software requirements
1. Pinnacle Pro Plus or
2. Adobe Premier or
3. There are many other cunsumer level video editing software

1. Connect your VCR to the camcorder via the A/V In/out cable, usually it has a component interface to VCR or a s_video interface, remember to turn A/V (or s_Video)
in/out to "ON", in the camcorder's menu function
2. Switch the camcorder to "PLAY" mode;
3. Connect the PC with Camcorder with a Firewire cable (I1394);
4. Power on the VCR player;
5. Power on the camcorder;
6. Open the video capturing software, even the standard Windows Movie Maker can capture the footage into AVI format file. - remember to capture into AVI, it's the
best for archiving and editting, NOT Mpg-2 or any other formats.
7. Play the video tape from VCR.

in my next article I'll show you how to convert PAL tapes into NTSC DVDs. If you have any questions or need help, please don't hesitate to email me, If you are quote this
instruction, please mention this is from Good luck!
If you want to save your time, please use the following professional service to help you!


8mm Film Transfer - Our Work is used by MSNBC CBS for TV Show Frame-by-Frame,repair,Canaan is the 1st in USA.
VHS to DVD -Our Work is used by MSNBC CBS for TV Show,All type of video tapes,repair,high resolution.
cassette to CD - Our Work is used by MSNBC CBS for TV Show,All type of audio tapes or reels,noise cancellation,repair.
35mm slide scanning - Our Work is used by SNBC CBS for TV Show,highest resolution,repair.

Here is a link that might be useful: VHS to DVD transferring DIY


clipped on: 11.10.2007 at 10:13 pm    last updated on: 11.10.2007 at 10:13 pm

RE: NC Winter Sowing Veterans? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: ggwrn on 10.25.2007 at 08:51 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

Last year, I tried something new (for me anyway) I bought clear sterlite containers from Wal-Mart. I put holes in them (top & bottom) with a wood burner then planted the seeds in styrofoam cups. This worked pretty good for sowing a few seeds of lots of plants. For larger amounts of seeds, I prefer milk jugs. I have found over the last few years that it works better for me to start around the 2nd week in January. I lost a lot of seedlings the first year I tried winter sowing when we had a warm spell in December (causing some of the seeds to sprout) and then the temps dropped down to the teens in January. If there are any winter-sowers in the Concord/Charlotte area, I would love to get together to exchange seeds.



clipped on: 10.25.2007 at 11:04 pm    last updated on: 10.25.2007 at 11:04 pm

RE: Do you get your mulch from a landfill/recycling center? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: ralphw on 10.23.2007 at 08:05 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

The compost that I use is from a place listed in the phone book as Hwy 55 C & B Landfill in Holly Springs. To get there go south on US Hwy 1 to Hwy 55 exit, then east on Hwy 55 staying on the bypass to Old Smithfield Rd. which is about 3 miles from US 1. Turn right onto old Smithfield Rd and then immediately right onto the entrance road. You pull up to a small building and pay $12.50 for a pickup truck load/cubic yard of compost. You can get mulch also for $5, but it is coarsely ground up tree limbs which I do not care for. The compost is very well decomposed yard waste from the town of Apex, and it has been consisitantly free of trash. The price includes their loading it with a loader. One thing that I like is that they are very responsive when they are loading if you ask them not to only fill your truck to a certain level. My son-in-law will not allow me to take his truck to the City of Raleigh site on Poole Rd. He bought a load there and they overfilled the truck so that he drove home on the beltline with the bumper practically dragging the ground and stuff blowing out the back. The Hwy 55 landfill is open 6 days per week and takes credit cards; however, if you are going, I recommend that you call to make sure that they have someone available to load, especially on Saturdays.


clipped on: 10.23.2007 at 10:41 pm    last updated on: 10.23.2007 at 10:41 pm

RE: wanted: raleigh swap plant id correction (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: karen__w on 10.17.2007 at 02:04 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

Ralph, there's a reptans seedling out there now -- I'll dig it up for you in the spring. I didn't dig much out of the meadow for this year's swap because I didn't think they would transplant well after the stress of adapting to the drought.

Other good salvia blues include S. glechomaefolia, which has small blue flowers (similar to uliginosa) on a lax habit most of the summer and fall. Not hardy here but worth keeping over or replacing in the spring. I like it as a ground cover at the base of my big potted plants. S. cacaliaefolia is also very nice, but a shy bloomer for me. Then there are S. chionophylla, S. chamaedryoides, and S. patens, which are hardy. Salvia muirii, villosa, and thymoides are also wonderful blues, but I haven't been very succesful getting them through the winter, even indoors under lights.

My favorite nonsalvia blue is Cypella coelestis.


good blue salvias
clipped on: 10.19.2007 at 09:09 am    last updated on: 10.19.2007 at 09:09 am

RE: Mandevilla (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: carygardener on 03.06.2006 at 09:47 am in Carolina Gardening Forum

I found this on

Question: On past programs you talked about how to store mandevillas over the winter. Could you please tell me again how to do it? Also I have a purple leaf smokebush that's been in the ground for about 5 years. It's healthy except that it is wider than high, which is only about 4.5 ft. I bought it from you when it was about 3 ft. It does have root competition from some nearby plants. Is there any way to prune it so that I can get it to be more upright? I do fertilize it with plant tone.

Answer: On the Mandevilla, there are 3 methods:

1. Store the root, like a Dahlia tuber in peat moss in a cool place over the winter. Pot in early March and start indoors before planting outdoors in late May.

2. Put the pot in a cool dark place and withhold water until early March. Then cut back and move to a warm brightly lit place. Grow as a houseplant until putting outside in late May.

3. Keep growing as a houseplant all winter in a warm sunny place. Trim lightly to shape now and more severely in mid-April. Caution: use systemic granules (Di-Syston), as mandevilla is very subject to white fly.

Smoke trees can be cut back as much as you would like (even to the ground) in late January-early February. Trimming the sides should force upright growth.

Here is a link that might be useful: Growing Mandevilla from tubers


clipped on: 10.19.2007 at 09:04 am    last updated on: 10.19.2007 at 09:04 am

RE: centipede grass (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: hollyclyff on 10.17.2007 at 11:57 am in Carolina Gardening Forum

I disagree completely about the need for an irrigation system. We *never* water our centipede except when we have just planted sprigs or thrown out seed. Right now it is as green as can be and quite thick where it is established well - in the middle of an "exceptional drought". It has taken us several years to get it going well, but we just threw out seed over top of what was already there - sometimes not even watering the seeds. The only drawbacks we have found with this grass is that it is brown in winter (which I don't mind) and it does send out runners over the driveway and into planting beds, but nothing like the invasiveness of bermuda. But the biggest advantage is that we don't have to waste a drop of water on it once it's established. It also doesn't need mowing as often as fescue.


clipped on: 10.17.2007 at 08:10 pm    last updated on: 10.17.2007 at 08:11 pm

RE: Epiphyllum strictum/ Christ in a Manger/ Night Blooming Cereu (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: rootdiggernc on 10.09.2007 at 03:44 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

I've read that it can take a very short freeze, but I wouldn't push that. In the winter I bring mine in and hang the larger ones in a bathroom window for a couple months and then I put it under the house (crawlspace) with a shop light. Very little water in the winter. I think most of the species epis are fragrant but a lot of the hybrids are not. This one is not fragrant to me but it's so beautiful it can be forgiven, lol. I'm still waiting on oxypetalatum to bloom and a bunch of hybrids and species which should be getting old enough to bloom.

I did bring a few of those to both of the swaps we just had. I don't know who got them, but they like a well draining but moist soil and like to be root bound before they'll bloom. You normally stop feeding any nitrogen in the fall and start feeding it a bloom booster (none or very minimal nitrogen)about Feb. It won't develop buds if it's being pushed to grow.


clipped on: 10.11.2007 at 05:27 pm    last updated on: 10.11.2007 at 05:27 pm

RE: Your Best Greenhouse Advice? (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: lakewhysc on 09.30.2007 at 12:59 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

Others have already mentioned this, but good air circulation is a key component of a more disease-free greenhouse environment. Not only does the air movement help circulate heat in winter or help cool in summer, it helps to lessen threats of fungas spread in most underpot and crevices, and breezes/wind is one natural deterrent for spider mites (along with getting undersides of leaves wet).

This basic integrated pest management system--good air circulation along with proper watering and tossing out diseased plants (and not introducing plants that are already infested into the greenhouse) will greatly lessen your need for bad chemical solutions. At best, you can do a lot with simple horticultural oil and soap in a hand-held spray bottle to kill off the first signs of scale, mealy bugs, aphids. Also, have a bottle of rubbing alcohol present to clean your pruners, knives, etc between plants, and DO wash used pots in a 10% bleach bath and then air dry.

Another key issue is collecting and then using plants that are appropriate for the conditions in your space. Many larger "professional" conservatories are poorly planted in that full-sun plants are given full-sun exposures only in the most direct rays of summer, and then due to a wall, or too thick of shadecloth or glass coatings, truly don't get enough light from Sept-March. This causes leggier growth, thinner leaves, and stresses the plant, leading to a more optimal condition for aphids, mealy bugs and scales to really flourish on the stressed plants.

ALso, allowing beneficial insects inside your house at times is always nice, especially katydids, ladybugs, etc. Just remember that caterpillars will eat various plants.

You also made concerns about avoiding a dormancy in tropical plants over the winter. Well, to save energy costs, and to have overall plant health on all but most ultra tropical plants, you MUST have a forced dormancy. There is no "winter" in the tropics and substropics, but the dormancy that tropicals ensure for their health is a DRY SEASON. Typically dry seasons occur when sunrays are weakest (this is in stark contrast to Mediterranean climate plants that need hot and dry in summer and then wet in winter).

So, to answer others remarks, selloum can take down into the lower 30s no problem, provided they are acclimated to gradual cooling temps over the course of a few weeks. At the same time temps cool, you MUST also lessen the water these plant have so to avoid a cold soil along with wet soil condition.

This is also the rule for palms. Palms essential shut down all root growth when soil temps go below 75 F. Lower than that, they just "sit". You may have a frond open in the winter, but it is very slow, and overwatering tropical plants in a cool environment will definitely lead to their demise.

Also, lower your humidity in the winter somewhat, and do not allow leaves to get wet (when it's cool). As water evaporates from leaves, they are cooled. This is fine in late spring, summer and early fall, but having leaves cool off slowly when temps are cool and the sun is weak is a sure way to cause fungal rotting on all plant parts.

I assume that the water that youll have in your greenhouse is right from the tap or well, and therefore (in the winter especially) will be "cool"? Tropicals should be watered with water that is temperature in range of 70-80 F ideally. This may be difficult for you in winter, but would be beneficial if you plan to have a warmer temp greenhouse through Dec-Feb.

If you use gravels for the floor, you can preventatively spray/wash it with a solution of 10% bleach or 20% white vinegar to kill algal growths. Just do it with good ventilation as to not harm plants.

Unless you have ultra-tropical plants in your collection, and by that I mean plants from lands that would never normally have night temps below 55 F even in the "winter" (dry) seasons, I would allow a dry season dormany. Again, this saves fuel costs, doesn't encourage plants to actively grow when sunlight is weakest and in many plants, a dry-season dormancy is the trigger needed for many plants to flower (or at least know to go dormant before they grow that spurt in spring to then flower and fruit). Palms also like it drier when sun is weak and temps cooler.


clipped on: 09.30.2007 at 10:16 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2007 at 10:16 pm

RE: Wintering cuttings of coleus in car storage area (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: dottie_in_charlotte on 09.17.2007 at 11:32 am in Carolina Gardening Forum

They're going to make masses of roots so give each cutting its own container.
I have bought plastic mortar trays at Lowes. Large rectangular and about 5" deep. Put that in a large painters clear plastic bag (painters use them for cleanup)
Put something in the tray that's tall, taller than the plants will be. Set the jars of cuttings around it in the tray.
Then, when you know it's going to be frigid or the door to the garage will be opened for a period of time, you can draw up the plastic around the plants to keep the abrupt chill off them.
They're pretty hardy though. Good to change the water occasionally and keep a jug of it nearby so the temp matches what they're rooting in.
Because they are cuttings, they will try to bloom so make sure you keep them pinched back so when you do make new cuttings in spring they'll root better.


clipped on: 09.19.2007 at 08:58 am    last updated on: 09.19.2007 at 08:58 am

RE: Wintering cuttings of coleus in car storage area (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: agrowingpassion on 09.18.2007 at 10:46 am in Carolina Gardening Forum

Dottie - When I moved here from MD last year I brought 50 coleus with me, took cuttings from all and most made it thought the winter.

You only want to plant a small tip of the stem (maybe one, no more than two leaf sets) They will get too big if you start with long stems. Also tried the whole plant and they are hard to get to look good outside the following year. You can start them in water but as someone said before they will rot and you DO HAVE TO CHANGE THE WATER OFTEN. I also found a clear glass is better and if you have some already rooting and add more, they seem to root easier and quicker. Why? I don't know. The roots will get tangled so you have to carefully pull them apart.

I have found after much trial and error that the quickest and best method is to pick the stems you want and dip it into the RootTone or any hormone starter(found at HD or L's). Then plant the stem into a small pot of potting soil. Press the soil firmly down and around the stem. Then water WELL so the roots will start. I used 4-6" pots. You want small pots for several reasons. 1. take up less room on shelf or in a tray, and 2. the small plants want to be "cozy" in their enviroment to get a good start.

I put mine on cookie sheets (with sides) to make watering easier and watered maybe once every ten days or so. Cut way back on the normal watering.

I beleive you are going to have trouble in the location you are talking about but the plastic will help. Coleus want temps of the 60 degree range. The do not like the cold at all. I lost some when we went away for a weekend and turned one room temp down (forgetting they were in there) Lost all of them. The other rooms were OK. If I were you I'd give it a try but remember the cold is not their friend. Also another tid-bit of advise, take more cuttings than you want. Especially it there is one you really want to keep because you will lose some regardless of how you do it.

You can start them in water now, (just to get them in the house for now) and later cut the stems and do the hormone thing and plant them using just the tips. They are actualy very easy but a little messy. They shed leaves and drip, etc. I save some every year but last year was more than I'd ever do again. Did have wonderful coleus all this summer but will not go as crazy as I did last year, this year. Email me as to how it goes and let me know if you have any questions. NOW IS THE TIME TO TAKE CUTTINGS AS STATED above by others. Also if you start now and see there is one not doing as well as you want it to or you decide you want more, you will still have time to get more cuttings before it gets too cold. Maybe we call swap coleus in the spring. GOOD LUCK Hope this helps.


clipped on: 09.19.2007 at 08:57 am    last updated on: 09.19.2007 at 08:58 am

RE: Gloriosa or flame lily seed questions (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: nckvilledudes on 09.07.2007 at 09:48 am in Carolina Gardening Forum

Rootdigger, from what I have read, it can be grown in a pot and then overwintered either by digging up the tubers (once they form if you are starting from seed) or by leaving them in the pot and moving the pot into a protected area and not watering the pot over the winter. Overwintering in the pot in my garage is what I used to do with my Vigna caracalla tubers and still do with several of the less than hardy Eucomis bulbs.


clipped on: 09.07.2007 at 11:04 am    last updated on: 09.07.2007 at 11:04 am

RE: Lady Slippers (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: nankeen on 01.23.2005 at 06:33 pm in Woodlands Forum

Hi, Some other sources are:
A drive up only place, if you live in Central MN.
Great plants, but only accepts orders from 8-1 to 9-1 or something like that.
C. montanum in particular.
Great seed prop plants of various ages, and some really rare species that I've never seen offered anywhere else!
Never ordered from them and don't know their ethics. I don't know how they got their more rare stuff....

In MA, they have some Frosch brand hybrids, as well as some species.

Various Asian orchids, including C. japonicum & debile, though neither are hardy outside in MN and both are difficult to grow. In PA.



orchid sites
clipped on: 09.05.2007 at 02:37 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2007 at 02:37 pm

RE: Lady Slippers (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: plantfreak on 02.01.2005 at 10:31 pm in Woodlands Forum

I posted this on a previous thread, but that was deleted due to here goes again.

If you are interested in growing Cyps, a good choice are the hybrids that are becoming more available each year. I think they will grow in popularity in coming years and the prices will come down a bit. Specifically, the hybrids C. Gisela, C. Aki, C. Ulla Silkens, C. Sabine, and C. Philipp are all worth growing. Especially C. Gisela has shown extreme vigor in gardens, much more so than even the best growing species.

Here's a nursery that carries both hybrid and species Cyps, as well as some really cool woodland perennials. Their prices are reasonable and folks I know who've ordered from them were impressed with the plants they got:

Hillside Nursery

Also, here's a shot of my C. Ulla Silkens last spring. There's lots of variation with this cross and this plant is NOT the best looking one I've seen. PF

Here is a link that might be useful: C. Ulla Silkens


hybrid lady slippers
clipped on: 09.05.2007 at 02:36 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2007 at 02:36 pm

RE: Lady Slippers (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: KWoods on 02.03.2005 at 09:37 am in Woodlands Forum


sources for lady slippers
clipped on: 09.05.2007 at 02:35 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2007 at 02:36 pm

RE: False Indigo Seed Pods (Propagation from Seed) (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: carol23 on 07.25.2005 at 10:31 am in Pennsylvania Gardening Forum

It's quite easy. Boil water, pour water in a mug or cup, and place seeds in very hot water, and allow seeds to soak overnight.
Seeds will germinated close to 100% within a week when sown in potting mix.
This method works with almost any pea family member including Cercis, Baptisia, Thermopsis, Indigofera, etc.


clipped on: 09.05.2007 at 09:19 am    last updated on: 09.05.2007 at 09:19 am

RE: Tomatopalooza tomorrow! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: lee_ on 08.01.2007 at 12:41 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

Well, What an exciting time it was.
We had over 180 people and over 180 varieties to sample.

I am amazed that this has now become an event.
In 2002 when we first met at the small shelter at Umstead Park, we tasted
~60 varieties (most brought by Craig) with a small contingent of ~30 people.
I know my primary goal was to taste and share with others as many different
varieties as possible to see what was the best tasting maters around.

Fast foward 5 years, Tomatopalooza[tm] is no longer a tomato tasting get
together. It has become a special event for friends to get together from all
walks of life and all places to meet and socialize, and share a passion for

Here's the link to the pictures:
Tomatopalooza photos
Tomatopalooza photos 2
Tomatopalooza photos 3

As for the tomatoes, there were a few standouts.
Tim's Witty F3 RL9 was fantabulous! The hint of sungold that Patrina had mentioned in Zig Zag Wattle 2, was in there!
Lucky Cross and Little Lucky were displayed at their finest.
Green Giant was very good this year, Cherokee Green was great, but almost
surprisingly, Spears Tennessee Green was better!

Yes folks, I said STG was better than GG and CG. GG is a sweet tomato with a hint of tartness complimenting it in the background.
STG is a tart tomato with a hint of sweetness complimenting it in the background. Absolutely fantastic. And the group around me while tasting it
thought the same as well. We've got to get this one out!

It was great seeing all the dwarves, and for the second time, I brought
a real spitter of a tomato. This time it was my Zig Zag Wattle #2 RL1. Blechhhh.
Odd thing was that a co-workers' Zig Zag Wattle #2 (not represented), is

Again, thanks to all who came, and to our gracious hosts who loaned us the
use of their farm for the day. Y'all were the ones who truly made it marvelous.


Tomatopalooza[tm] 5 Varities - 185 different
4th of July F1
Akers West Virginia
Andrew Rahart Jumbo Red
Anna Banana Russian
Annanas Noir
Arkansas Traveler
Aunt Gertie's Gold
Aunt Ginny's Purple
Banksia Rose 3 RL3
Barossa Beauty PL1
Barossa Beauty PL2
Barossa Beauty PL3
Barossa Fest PL1
Barossa Fest PL2
Barossa Fest RL1
Barossa Fest RL2
Bashful F3 RL6 NCTIM RL1
Beauty King
Beefy Boy
Berkley Tie Dye
Better Boy
Big Mama F1
Big Red F1
Black from Tula
Box Car Willie
Brandy Boy F1
Brandywine F3RL3 F4PL1 - F5PL1
Brandywine Pink
Brandywine Sudduth
Buck's County F1
Bundaberg rumball 3 RL1
Bundaberg rumball 3 RL2
Bundaberg rumball 3 RL3
Carmello F1
Cherokee chocolate
Cherokee Green
Cherokee Purple
Clare Valley Red RL2
Dixie Golden Giant
Dopey F2 RL1
Dopey F2 RL2
Dopey F2 RL3
Dr. Neal
Dr. Wyche's Green F2
Dr. Wyche's Red F3
Dr. Wyche's Yellow F2
Dwarf Stone
Earl's Faux
Eva Purple Ball
Gajo de Melon
Galapagos Island Yellow
Gary O'Sena
German Heirloom
German Johnson
German Johnson, potato leaf
Golden Dwarf Champion
Goose Creek
Green Doctor
Green Giant
Green Grape
Grumpy F2 PL1
Happy F3 RL2 - Cosmic RL1
Happy F3 RL2 - Cosmic RL2
Happy F3 RL2 - Cosmic RL3
Happy F3 RL3 - Patrina RL1
Happy F3 RL3 - Patrina RL2
Hawaiian Pineapple
Hungarian Italian Paste
Hungarian Red Paste
Husky Gold
Japanese Black Truffle
Jeff Davis
Juliet F1
June Pink
Kalmans Hungarian Pink
Kangaroo Paw Red RL1
Kangaroo Paw Red RL2
Kellogg's Breakfast
Kristina Bulgarian #1
LaRoma F1
Lemon Boy
Lillian's Yellow Heirloom
Lime Green Salad
Little Lucky
Lucky Cross
Maiden's Kiss
Malaschor Isura
Mexico Midget
Mortgage Lifter
Mortgage Lifter Pale Leaf
Mountain Fresh
Mountain Spring
Nebraska Wedding
New Big Dwarf
New Zealand Pear
Not Akers West Virginia
Not Aunt Gerties Gold
Not Opalka
Omar's Lebanese
Orange Heart
Orange Heirloom
Pink Ping Pong
Porterhouse Beefsteak
Rasp Red
Reif's Red Heart
Rose Quartz
Rosella Crimson RL1
Rosella Crimson RL2
Saint Piere
Sleazy A F2 RL1
Sleazy A F2 RL2
Sleazy B F3 Bruce's Purple RL1
Sleazy B F3 Bruce's Purple RL2
Sleazy B F3 RL1 - Patrina RL1
Sleazy B F3 RL1 - Patrina RL2
Sleazy B F3 RL1 - Patrina RL3
Sleepy F2 PL1
Sneezy F2 PL1
Sneezy F2 PL2
Sneezy F2 PL3
Sneezy F2 RL1
Sneezy F2 RL2
Sneezy F2 RL3
Spear's Tennessee Green
Stokes County
Striped Cavern
Stump of the World
Summer Cider
Summertime Gold 2 - PL1
Summertime Gold 2 - PL2
Summertime Gold 3 - PL1
Summertime Gold 3 - PL2
Summertime Gold 3 - RL1
Summertime Gold 3 - RL2
Summertime Gold 4 - PL1
Summertime Gold 4 - PL2
Summertime Gold 4 - RL2
Summertime Green PL2
Summertime Green PL3
Summertime Green PL4
Summertime Green RL2
Sungold Select II
Sweet Million F1
Tennessee Heirloom
Thai Pink Egg
Turkey Chomp
Warratah Red RL1
Warratah Red RL2
White Wonder
Witty F2 RL1
Witty F3 NCTIM RL10
Witty F3 NCTIM RL8
Witty F3 NCTIM RL9
Yellow Brandywine
Yellow Pear
Zig Zag Wattle 1 - RL1
Zig Zag Wattle 1 - RL2
Zig Zag Wattle 2 - RL1
Zig Zag Wattle 2 - RL2
Zig Zag Wattle 2 - RL3
Zig Zag Wattle 2 - RL4
Zig Zag Wattle 2 - RL5


clipped on: 08.02.2007 at 09:13 am    last updated on: 08.02.2007 at 09:13 am

RE: What is really in that rain water? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: cribscreek on 08.19.2005 at 01:46 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

Here is a pasted in portion of that article referred to above. Very Interesting.

Helps Plants
It is this hydrogen peroxide in rainwater that makes it so much more effective than tap water when given to plants. With the increased levels of atmospheric pollution, however, greater amounts of H202 react with air-borne toxins and never reach the ground. To compensate for this, many farmers have been increasing crop yields by spraying them with diluted hydrogen peroxide (5 to 16 ounces of 35% mixed with 20 gallons of water per acre). You can achieve the same beneficial effect with your house plants by adding 1 ounce of 3% hydrogen peroxide (or 16 drops of 35% solution) to every quart of water you give your plants. (It can also be made into an excellent safe insecticide. Simply spray your plants with 8 ounces of 3% peroxide mixed with 8 ounces of white sugar and one gallon of water.)


clipped on: 07.31.2007 at 06:46 pm    last updated on: 07.31.2007 at 06:46 pm

RE: Why did the box turtule cross the road? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: hosta200 on 07.19.2007 at 11:04 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

Most of the eggs I hatch are sliders, but about 35% are box turtles. They can both be incubated the same way.
Put the eggs in a covered tupperware container and cover with "slightly" moist vermiculite. I leave the top part of the egg uncovered to keep an eye on them. Put them up in a warm closet or some place that gets in the high 70's and open the lid weekly to let fresh air in. Don't turn the eggs once you start incubating. They usually hatch in 3-4 months but can take longer.


clipped on: 07.19.2007 at 11:36 pm    last updated on: 07.19.2007 at 11:36 pm

NC Sources of Native Plants

posted by: haliwa01 on 07.11.2007 at 02:25 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

I just wanted to say thank you all for responding to my original topic Where to buy Native trees and shrubs near Garner (40/42 area). In doing research for my landscaping this fall with natives I have compiled a list of nurseries that sell native plants in NC and I wanted to share the list with you in case anyone was interested.

North Carolina Sources of Native Plants
Appalachian Trees, PO Box 92, Glendale Springs, NC 28629, 336-982-2377. wholesale

Architectural Trees, 6404 Amed Road, Bahama, NC 27503, 919-620-0779, retail and wholesale

Arrowhead Wholesale Nursery, 6150 Watia Rd., Bryson City, NC 28713, 828-488-6840. retail and wholesale

Broadwells Nursery, 7110 Old Stage Road, Angier, NC 27501, 919-639-2952. retail and wholesale

Burgaw Creek Nursery, PO Box 1337, Burgaw, NC 28425, 910-259-4788. wholesale

Carolina Greenery, 375 Carthage Road, West End, NC 27376, 910-947-3150. retail and wholesale

Carolina Native Nursery, 1126 Prices Creek Rd, Burnsville, NC 28714. 828-682-1471, retail and wholesale

Cedar Springs Nursery, Rt. 1, Box 304, Zirconia, NC 28790, 828-692-5575. wholesale

Coastal Plain Conservation Nursery, 3067 Conners Drive, Edenton, NC 27932, 252-482-5707. retail and wholesale

Fern Valley Farms, 1624 Fern Valley Road, Yadkinville, NC 27055, 336-463-2412. retail and wholesale

Gardens of the Blue Ridge, Pineola, NC 28662, 828-733-2417. retail and wholesale

Growing Wild Nursery, Burgaw, NC, 919-259-6361, retail and wholesale

Guildford Garden and Outdoor Center, 701 Milner Dr, Greensboro, NC 27410, 336-299-1535. retail

Hanging Dog Valley Nursery, 2600 Boiling Springs Rd., Murphy, NC 28906, 828-837-7921. retail and wholesale

Harpers Nursery, 2145 Oak Level Rd, Rocky Mount, NC. 252-459-2189.

Hawksridge Farms, Inc., PO Box 3349, Hickory, NC 28603, 828-294-2081, 800-874-4216. wholesale,

Hoffman Nursery, 5520 Bahama Road, Rougemont, NC 27572, 919-479-6620; 800-203-8590; FAX 919-471-3100. wholesale

Homewood Nursery, 10809 Honeycutt Rd, Raleigh, NC, 919-847-0117. retail and wholesale.

Humphries Nursery, 4712 Whitfield Rd., Durham, NC 27707, 919-489-5502. retail and wholesale

Lamtree Farm, 2323 Copeland Road, Warrensville, NC 28693, 336-385-6144, retail and wholesale

Laurel Springs Nursery, 401 Regal St., Hendersonville, NC 28739, 828-692-4012. retail and wholesale

McNeely Landscaping, PO Box 266, Lake Toxaway, NC 28747, 828-884-3933. retail and wholesale

Meadowbrook Nursery, 2055 Polly Spout Road, Marion, NC 28752, 828-738-8300 retail

Niche Gardens, 1111 Dawson Rd., Chapel Hill, NC 27516, 919-967-0078. retail

Old Stage Nursery, Old Stage Road, Angier, NC 27501, retail and wholesale

Page Road Garden Center, 2914 Page Road, Morrisville, NC 27560, 919-806-5635, retail and wholesale

Plant Delights Nursery, 9241 Sauls Rd., Raleigh, NC 27603, 919-772-4794. retail

Rarebird Nursery, 252 Collie Rd, Castalia, NC 27816. 919-853-2716. retail

Sandy Mush Herb Nursery, 316 Surrett Cove Rd., Leicester, NC 28748, 828-683-2014. retail and wholesale

Silkhope Nursery, 2861 Mt. Vernon Hickory Mtn Rd, Siler City, NC 27344. 919-633-5759. retail and wholesale

Tarheel Native Trees, 4339 Peele Rd., Clayton, NC 27520, 919-553-5927. wholesale

Wildflower Nursery, 4920 NE Hwy 25-70, Marshall, NC 28753, 828-656-2723. retail and wholesale

Wilson Greenery, PO Box 2554, Shelby, NC 28151, 704-484-2709. wholesale

Haliwa01 (Charles)


clipped on: 07.11.2007 at 06:08 pm    last updated on: 07.11.2007 at 06:08 pm

RE: Fire Ant Murdering tips? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: rivers1202 on 07.03.2007 at 02:49 am in Carolina Gardening Forum

I tried the granules that you put down with a spreader....didn't work AT ALL. In fact, it seemed the mounds increased after that particular treatment.

What works best for me is ant bait products, like Amdro. You need to sprinkle the ant bait granules on and around the mound when the ants are most active, but try not to disturb the mound too much while doing it. You don't have to water this product in...just sprinkle it on and leave it alone. The ants will take the bait into the mounds to share with the rest of the ants, including the queen, and they'll die. As long as the queen lives she only needs 4 workers to start another colony...that's why contact poisons often fail. The queen is hidden deep inside the mound and contact poisons can't touch her.

Any product you have to water in will almost always fail when it comes to fire ants...those products only kill ants near the surface, leaving the queen and the workers she needs to start over. The surviving ants will move the queen and her eggs to another fresh mound in another location on your property.

The bait products won't poison any other insects because they only target fire ants, so it's safer to use than broad-spectrum granular products that you have to water in. You aren't going to kill any "good" bugs with an ant bait product, just fire ants.



clipped on: 07.06.2007 at 01:26 pm    last updated on: 07.06.2007 at 01:26 pm

RE: Fire Ant Murdering tips? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: mike_marietta_sc_z8a on 07.05.2007 at 10:00 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

I control fire ants on my 26 acre property without use of pesticides. This time of year, my favorite method of murdering fire ants on mounds located near asphalt pavement is to dig out the nest in the middle of a hot sunny day and scatter the ants across the hot pavement where they quickly cook. If the nest is within shovel throwing distance of a hot sunny roof, it can also do double duty as an ant cooker. Nests located near the lake get scattered across the lake's surface where they will eventually drown or get eaten by various aquatic critters. For nests not located close to any convenient killing fields, I simply scatter the ants as far as I can throw them. The ants of the single queen colonies that I have around here only venture 50 to 100 feet from their mound, so any ants that get tossed beyond their territorial limits fall of land bereft of scent trails to lead them back to their mound, so most die a lonely death out in the wilderness.

But my all-time favorite method for murdering fire ants occurs in the winter on sunny late afternoons where the temps are expected to go below freezing that night. I will dig out and scatter any mounds that I find, then fill in the hole that I dug with firmly packed fresh soil. Any ants that can't make it back below ground by nightfall get frozen to death. One visit is all that it usually takes to kill out even the largest mound.

At this point, fire ants aren't a major problem on my property and are mainly limited to small nests that get started over the summer and a few mature colonies that migrate in from adjoining properties where they aren't controlled.


clipped on: 07.06.2007 at 01:25 pm    last updated on: 07.06.2007 at 01:26 pm

RE: Plant Delights open house (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: nckvilledudes on 05.04.2007 at 10:28 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

Tamelask, glad you enjoyed the pictures. Following are sources for the clematis pictured.

Fusca, pitcheri, and crispa can be purchased from Ellen Horning at Seneca Hill Perennials. She also has texensis which I didn't post a picture of previously but which is stunning.

Here is another picture of fusca from last year although I think it is actually fusca violacea since the straight fusca should be a hairy brown shaped bell and not have the purple tinge.

Picture of my texensis from last year---

The pitcheri hybrid can be purchased from Dan Long at Brushwood Nursery.

Glaucophylla can be purchased at Sunlight Gardens but they are out of stock and not available until 2008.

Versicolor is available at Woodlanders Nursery. They also have C. socialis which they have a picture of on their website but don't do mail order on it!

Sorry but I couldn't do direct image linking for the links but you should do okay copying and pasting them into your browser's address window.



clipped on: 05.05.2007 at 05:58 pm    last updated on: 05.05.2007 at 05:58 pm

RE: other native bellshaped flowers (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: nckvilledudes on 05.02.2007 at 12:13 pm in Clematis Forum

Hey BorS, if you like bell shaped clematis, how about fusca?




A pitcheri hybrid that Dan Long sells at Brushwood




There are tons of them out there and quite a few are US natives that hardly get any press!


clipped on: 05.04.2007 at 02:30 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2007 at 02:31 pm

RE: Plant Delights open house (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: nckvilledudes on 05.04.2007 at 03:32 am in Carolina Gardening Forum

Evelyn I did get your directions but after I went to work. I emailed you separately so you should see the email later this morning. Just got off work at 3am hence the late email. I also hope you don't mind that I supply Brian and any others interested the directions you gave me to Plant Logic.

From Greensboro take 421 South. Continue South down towards the Julian area. There is an exit ramp that says Hwy 62 Julian/Climax. Going south on 421 you get off the exit and take a right on 62. Plant Logic is maybe a 1/4 mile on the left. You go over some railroad tracks to get to it.

Brian glad to hear your viorna is doing well. I have two now. One from cuttings from a plant near the house at Salem Lake, the second from a seller on eBay several years ago.

Tamelask, I supplied Dan Long at Brushwood Nursery ( and Ellen Hornig at Seneca Hills Perennials with tons of seed from the wild colony of plants I discovered at Salem Lake. Dan has seedlings up already and hopes to have them for sale this fall or next spring at the latest. I haven't heard how Ellen is doing with her seedlings but I am sure you could check with both to find out when they may have plants available.

Alicia, realize that clematis viorna may take a year or more to germinate so don't give up on the seeds too soon.


directions plant logic & plce that has clem viorna
clipped on: 05.04.2007 at 12:36 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2007 at 12:37 pm

RE: Low Cost Shots and/or Spay-Nueter (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: ratgirl on 05.02.2007 at 03:58 am in Carolina Gardening Forum

There is a program called "The $20 Fix" available to residents in the greater Triangle area with a combined household income below $20,000/yr. It is supported by the ReTails Thrift Shop (located behind the Red Lobster on Wake Forest Road in Raleigh). All of the store's profits go to this wonderful program, so keep them in mind when you are donating stuff! The shopping there is great too. They have all kinds of cool specials throughout the month. More info. about the store and the $20 Fix at:


clipped on: 05.03.2007 at 10:55 am    last updated on: 05.03.2007 at 10:55 am

RE: WANTED: Continued:Special Trades for Raleigh Swap (Follow-Up #63)

posted by: tamelask on 04.06.2006 at 09:47 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

brenda, i killed that violet by putting it on a clay slope in the drought. if you are weeding out more, and it's the same as what i saw at john's i'd love to try it again. it is so pretty. i have room for it to roam & don't care if it does.

i got on nan's sedum site and i.d.'d the 4 kinds i'm bringing. 1 divvy for arwen of s. makinoi 'ogon' ( i only have enough for 1 right now), couple of s. tetractinum, several of s. acre majus ( at least that was the closest i think i saw- it gets confusing looking through all of those!) and a couple s. lineare variegatum. i have dribs & drabs of many others, but not really enough for anything but tiny divvy's, so i'll wait. maybe by summer's end. i do have some nonhardy succulants that if i have time, i'll grab little pieces of for those who like strange stuff.

dana- i understand about the leaves being tiny. it was just the other day when the mulberries were out far enough to i.d. if they aren't out by swap time, we can get together another time & swap caterpillars, turtle stories & stuff. and the kids can play.

tanya- no guarantees, but i have some places where i've got suckers of quince roots coming up. i was planning to round them up. IF they are in a spot i can dig them out(many aren't), i'll get you a piece. mine is the old fashioned coral pink. i don't need anything in exchange. tam


clipped on: 04.18.2007 at 12:33 pm    last updated on: 04.18.2007 at 12:33 pm

RE: WANTED: Continued:Special Trades for Raleigh Swap (Follow-Up #42)

posted by: nancedar on 04.05.2006 at 04:21 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

tam - S. lineare is the striped one, prob from me teehee. S. acre is common but lovely flowers make it worth it, have it. Others I could tell you if I saw them maybe. Got pictures? Oh - forgot I just found a neat site with great photos of sedums and meant to post it here.

arwenlurks - you too will like it and all us other sedumaniacs. I do question a few names though, so check other sites before you really believe you have the right name (like Squaw Mountain Gardens).

If you think it lopsided, a Leadwort Plumbago would be lovely if you have any left to share.

Nancy the nancedar


clipped on: 04.18.2007 at 12:33 pm    last updated on: 04.18.2007 at 12:33 pm

RE: Miniature Maple (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: dibbit on 04.12.2007 at 04:33 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

The latest from the Master Gardeners/Polk County Extension agent is to wait at LEAST 3 weeks after the frost before pruning out any "dead" stuff from your woody plants (trees and shrubs) - 4 weeks would be safer. Then cut back until you get live wood - i.e.; the cambium layer just under the bark is green. If you REALLY can't stand looking at them, then you can carefully take off the dead leaves, but be REALLY careful not to damage the buds that will be the source of the new leaves - do it SOON, before the new buds start growing. Perennials, on the other hand, you can clean up now. Water if the ground is dry, DO NOT FERTILIZE, and keep a close eye on the plants that had to leaf out again, as they should now be considered stressed, and thus prone to disease and bugs in the next summer.


clipped on: 04.12.2007 at 10:35 pm    last updated on: 04.12.2007 at 10:36 pm

RE: carpenter bees (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: heather_q on 04.05.2007 at 08:01 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

Here's a bit of info on both the females and the drones pulled from a website. The female is an excellant pollinator and killing them should be avoided.

Drones - Some folks are terrified of this buzzer. You won't see him visiting flowers and minding his own business like the female. Rather he'll be looking you over to see if you are sexy. Drones have a territory that they watch, and anything within it that moves, will be investigated.
There is not an ounce of aggression in this harmless fellow's body, except toward other drones. He cannot sting you anyway. So when he comes to buzz around you, look him straight in the eye and dance with him. Toss a pebble and watch him chase it. Look cross eyed, or stick out your tongue at him. See, all he'll do is a friendly buzz game. This is an ideal chance to teach your kids one of the joys of nature, rather than load them up with wasted fear of something completely harmless.

She's often mistaken for a bumble bee, but is easily distinguished by her shiny black butt, instead of a fuzzy gold and brown butt.
Carpenter bees are much maligned because they bore into wood to make their nests, but they are valuable pollinators and should be protected. Usually the damage they do to wood is just cosmetic.
They pollinate many spring flowers, though they sometimes slit blueberry flowers and steal nectar without pollinating them.
Carpenter bees are solitary bees, with each lady making her own nest. They are most common in early spring.

There are also suggestions on the internet for providing nesting for the carpenter bees, one being basically to provide nesting blocks made out of untreated softwood such as pine or fir. A commonly sized block is 4"x4" or 4"x6", drilled with holes that are about "-3/8" wide and 4-6" deep. Brian Griffin, who raises orchard mason bees in Washington, drills his 4"x6" blocks with holes on " centers, so that each block has 102 holes. (9) He angles the front of the block and places a piece of cedar shingle on top, to act as a roof overhang. These blocks can be used for many years and can be cleaned with a bleach solution.

Good luck!



clipped on: 04.06.2007 at 03:49 pm    last updated on: 04.06.2007 at 03:49 pm

RE: Best mulch? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: wonbyherwits on 04.02.2007 at 03:17 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

The Garden's Sake folks are very knowledgeable and have good selections of plants and trees. They grow a lot of their stock and expand the selection from other nurseries.

As for deer -- it depends upon the deer herd and how afraid they are of your house.

At a previous house (near Jordan Lake), the deer came up to the lowest porch step and munched the geraniums. They do eat impatiens and tulips. They nip azalea buds and leave you with the greenery. Same with hydgrangeas and daylilies. They devour hostas and Indian hawthorn like candy.

What deer don't like (my personal experience) are those plants that butterflies do like or that fall in the hot/dry category or herb category. They don't touch any of my ornamental grasses (carex, acorus, cortaderia, miscanthus, etc.)

full sun herbs, perennials and annuals:
coreopsis moonbeam
iris (Dutch, Japanese, Siberian, bearded -- once in awhile, a bloom will disappear)
dianthus (they don't eat it, but the fawns pull it up)
phlox subulata
hyacinths (and bluebells)

shade perennials:

Shrubs/small trees:
itea virginica
gardenia (radicans left alone; bigger ones tasted)
bambusa (clump)
osmanthus fragrans
magnolia (bucks rub their antlers on the lower branches, so a 24-30" high edging fence is what I use)
ilex glabra
ilex vomitoria
ilex carissa
spirea (mixed results with the blooms, foliage is okay)

They munch the first flowers on echinacea, helianthus and rudbeckia, but them leave them alone. Since I cut the first flowers to encourage more flowers, I'm okay with this.

They munch my heuchera in winter, but not in summer. Same with my lorepetalum, illicum, hypericum and ligustrum. They taste a few other things like cryptomeria and chamaecyparis, but tend to spit it out on the ground.

I have just planted calla, canna, brugmansia, colocasia and agapanthus. I'll report on those in my blog as we go through the summer. I don't expect a problem.

I'm also adding these and not expecting a problem:

veronica (I've had mixed success in the past, but I'm going to try royal candles this time)

Now, when I lived in Efland in the middle of the woods, the deer left everything alone -- hostas, hydrangeas, daylilies, azaleas. Different herds that have access to sufficient wild food and don't go foraging in yards.

Deer are lazy! That's why my little 28-30" high edger will deter them from their traffic pattern. Too much work to jump into a space that looks like they can't get out. They will jump the 4 board fence out front that has wide open meadow on both sides. They also go under the lowest board in the fence if it's easier than jumping!

Best of luck with your garden!


clipped on: 04.02.2007 at 09:10 pm    last updated on: 04.02.2007 at 09:10 pm

RE: What kind of bush? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: rootdiggernc on 03.31.2007 at 04:22 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

I think I found it.... Spiraea prunifolia. It's a very old bush and it is also known as the Bridal Wreath Spirea (so VanHoutte was maybe named this later?). I have given away scads of this thing all over TN and NC. It is always beautiful, has never had any bug or disease problems. We use to use it as a backdrop for prom pics in April and it was gorgeous. Now I understnad why people would sometimes say, No thanks, already have a Vanhoutte,... and I'd wonder so what does that have to do with it? A mystery solved.


bridal wreath spirea
clipped on: 03.31.2007 at 10:37 pm    last updated on: 03.31.2007 at 10:37 pm

RE: flavorless melons (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: pfmastin on 03.23.2007 at 10:03 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

I believe I read that phosphorus will sweeten melons. You might do an internet search and see what you can find.



clipped on: 03.24.2007 at 10:36 am    last updated on: 03.24.2007 at 10:37 am

RE: Acer palmatum 'Butterfly' (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: dawgie on 03.15.2007 at 08:20 am in Carolina Gardening Forum

For the spot you described, I think Butterfly would grow fine there. If you like the variegated foliage, I'm sure it would be nice. I've got about 20 Japanese maple varieties. Here are my favorites in the size you mentioned:

- Koto no ito -- A threadleaf variety that is hard to find in nurseries but not on-line. Looks like a miniature weeping willow. Grows more upright than many JMs and has nice yellow-orange fall color.
- Viridis -- One of the old standards and easily found in nurseries. Grows wider than tall, so this might be a problem if space is limited. Nice yellow-orange fall color. Waterfall is a similar variety that seems to be available in a lot of nurseries.
- Autumn Moon -- Hard to find in nurseries, but a few of them are around. Spectacular yellow-orange leaves in spring, summer and fall. Different species than most JMs, with more upright growth habit. My personal favorite for season-long leaf color.
- Shin de shogo -- Another one of my favorites. Leaves open a spectacular fire-engine red and gradually turn to green, but new growth is red all season. Fall color is also bright red.
- Villa taranto -- Another threadleaf variety that you sometimes see in nurseries. Leaves open reddish brown and gradually turn green, with new growth reddish. Will keep more of the reddish color with more sun. Very unusual variety, like nothing else.

Broadwells and Tarwheel nurseries on Old Stage Rd sometimes have nice JMs for good prices. I bought a very nice Shaina there for $25 a couple of years ago and they had at least a dozen different varieties at that time, but last year they only had a few varieties -- the usual Bloodgoods, etc., when I went there.


clipped on: 03.15.2007 at 09:54 am    last updated on: 03.15.2007 at 09:54 am

RE: Twin-Wall Polycarbonate Greenhouse Panels (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: hdcochran on 03.13.2007 at 07:10 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

We haven't yet bought it, but here's what I have learned. Hope it helps.

GE Polymershapes
Lexan* Thermoclear* Sheet
Charlotte: 3800-A Woodpark Blvd, Charlotte, NC 28206, 704-509-5711
Raleigh: 540 Civic Blvd. Suite 175, Raleigh, NC 27610, 919-212-1014

Palram Americas
Sunlite, Sunlite-Plus
Arcadia West Industrial Park 9735 Commerce Circle, Kutztown, PA 19530, 800-999-9459,

Polygal Inc. P.O. Box 410592, Charlotte, NC 28241, (800) 537-0095 Fax: 1(704)588-7400
Cartier & Wilson Company Contact: Adam Mellen, 4076 Charrwood Trace Suite A Marietta, GA 30062, 770-644-0000 Fax 770-644-0008
E-mail: Web Site:
Territories FL, GA, AL, MS, TN, LA, NC, SC
MJK, LLC Contact: James Larkin; 5036 Fairway Road, Drexel Hill, PA 19026; 610-449-2950; Fax 610-789-3824
Territories: Greenhouse 50 United States

Piedmont Plastics
324-B Park Knoll Drive, PO Box 1277, Morrisville, North Carolina 27560. 800-476-7898, 919-783-9398, Fax: 919-787-5563,


clipped on: 03.13.2007 at 09:44 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2007 at 09:44 pm

RE: What are you doing in the garden right now? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: pameliap on 02.27.2007 at 09:25 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

Memama - We use Ortho products to reduce the fire ants in the yard. We broadcast a spring treatment (I want to say Max, but the bag's out in the shed and I'm not, lol). I has really reduced the number of mounds in the yard. I'm going to use it in my beds this year as well. To treat individual mounds, which we still get around the edges from the neighbors, we use Ortho Orthene. It stinks to high heaven but the mound is dead within 24 hours.


clipped on: 02.28.2007 at 08:31 pm    last updated on: 02.28.2007 at 08:31 pm

RE: Started planting today (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: susandonb on 02.19.2007 at 08:50 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

Hi ya,

I put in seed about 2 weeks ago before we got real cold. Experimenting to see how early things might come up, I direct sowed, broccoli, cauliflower, turnips, beets, spinach, lettuce.

In my cold frame I have broccoli, cauliflower, excarole and spinach already making second set of leaves. Today I put out in a second cold frame, 6 varieties of tomatos and 5 varieties of basil. I also set up some plastic muffin containers with chives, purple cauliflower, carnations, marigolds, poppies.

I will be putting in peas on Thursday and more spinach and lettuce. I built a special raised bed for carrots which will also be going in on Thursday with some radishes.

I usually direct sow beets around the 15th of March to the 15th of April if we stay above freezing and the soil is workable. Fortunately, our soil did freeze but not very deeply cause I noticed today it was loosening up already and this was the first fairly warm day. We probably hit 45 today. Looking forward to 65 on Thursday.

I usually direct sow cabbage, brocc, cauliflower, turnips and rutabagas in mid March.

Can't wait! Whaaahooo!

Susan in Stokes County, NC


clipped on: 02.19.2007 at 10:49 pm    last updated on: 02.19.2007 at 10:49 pm

RE: lungworts? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dellare on 01.30.2007 at 08:38 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

Hi Shannon, don't know if you are interested but while searching the web for dry shade plants I ran across sarcococca hookeriana var. humilis. Its a lovely, little evergreen with shiny leaves. Not necessarily for dry areas but is drought tolerant when established. The hooker for me is that it blooms in February and the flowers are fragrant to boot. Lo and behold we had it at BB's and I now have two in my possession. I am thinking it will make a nice companion plant for hellebores or hosta. Adele

Here is a link that might be useful: sarcococca (sweetbox)


clipped on: 01.31.2007 at 11:05 am    last updated on: 01.31.2007 at 11:05 am

RE: Pictures of Unusual Impatiens (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: brenda_near_eno on 01.26.2007 at 11:48 am in Carolina Gardening Forum

Well, brike down and spent $10 on nambacharwensis and niamniamensis from secretseeds. Hope they germinate. If all goes well, I might have rooted cuttings by swap time. Tat's how it went with the zombensis Derrick sent me last January.

Has anyone seen how large tinctoria is? Like the size of your palm, and SCENTED too. Wow, need that one and CANNOT find it anywhere.


clipped on: 01.26.2007 at 04:35 pm    last updated on: 01.26.2007 at 04:35 pm

Another Southern Nursery (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: windeaux on 01.09.2007 at 04:21 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

. . . and another great source for a wide variety of plants is Nurseries Caroliniana in North Augusta, SC.

Here is a link that might be useful: Nurseries Caroliniana


clipped on: 01.09.2007 at 09:31 pm    last updated on: 01.09.2007 at 09:31 pm

RE: Southern mailorder nurseries? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: windeaux on 01.09.2007 at 04:13 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

One of my favorites is Wilkerson Mill Gardens in Palmetto, GA (near Atlanta). They have a super selection of hydrangeas, plus collections of trees, shrubs, Viburnums, vines & perennials.

Here is a link that might be useful: Wilkerson Mill Gardens


clipped on: 01.09.2007 at 09:30 pm    last updated on: 01.09.2007 at 09:30 pm

RE: franticly need garden (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: sunburnt365 on 01.04.2007 at 06:14 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

I recently visited a nursery called "Mountain Meadows", and let me tell you!~ What a joy!
They are a specialty nursery that deals with unique conifers, and the whole trip for me turned from what I expected to be a quick walk thorugh, into an hour and a half of talking with the owner , walking the beautiful grounds, and learning about plants. I only purchased a dwarf golden hemlock 'everitts golden'(cool plant) but I will definitly go back, and I wanted to pass the word along to anyone who likes conifers or
is looking for inspiration and insight. I dont know the phone number, but the website is www.mountainmeadowsdwarfconifers.comI hope you enjoy it. Keep a look out for unique nurseries in WNC, and I will too



clipped on: 01.05.2007 at 09:00 am    last updated on: 01.05.2007 at 09:00 am

RE: Additives to soil (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: dibbit on 12.12.2006 at 09:50 am in Carolina Gardening Forum

I THINK that the vacuum/shredders with the strings or flailswork better than the ones with blades, since the hard stuff gets by them. If you want a chipper/shredder, then you NEED the blades to get the branches -unless it, as the better ones do, uses flails - jointed sections of metal that spin and chop everything in their way - and anything too hard just spins around for a while and either falls out or sits on the screening, so you can remove it once you stop everything.

Again, I THINK, as I've not done it, garbage cans and weed whackers do work, but the can should be pretty full and the weedwhacker moved up and down through the leaves for best results.


clipped on: 12.12.2006 at 07:04 pm    last updated on: 12.12.2006 at 07:04 pm

RE: Additives to soil (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: dibbit on 12.11.2006 at 12:55 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

Oak leaves, in fact, are supposed to be less likely to mat down, if you don't shred them, which is a good thing.

As far as shredding leaves, if you have a lawn mower with a bag, running over them, either just as they lay or raked into windrows, works, and you can then pour them out where you want them. You can also just run over them and leave them lay; they won't kill off any grass if they are shredded. You can also - USING EAR PROTECTION - put the leaves into a metal garbage can, and run a weed whacker in the can to shred them. Or, which I would love to do but haven't yet decided to spend the money to buy the shredder/chipper, buy a shredder/chipper and shred them that way. The benefit of that is, while you do need to rake them up for most of them, you can move the machinery to the piles and not vice versa. Some machines have a vacuum hose attachment, and you can use it to collect and shred the leaves. Having borrowed a friend's last fall, I would advise getting one with as big a bag as possible!


clipped on: 12.12.2006 at 07:04 pm    last updated on: 12.12.2006 at 07:04 pm

RE: Lilium catesbaei or grayi seeds? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dirtysc8 on 12.12.2006 at 12:25 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

An excellent way to check availability of a desired seed is to click on Forums in the top line, then click on Garden Forums, and go to Exchanges and Trading. Then click on Search Members' Lists.

It's a really nice feature of the GardenWeb~

Here is a link that might be useful: Searching Exchange Lists


clipped on: 12.12.2006 at 07:03 pm    last updated on: 12.12.2006 at 07:03 pm

RE: Home for the Holler-daze (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: nancedar on 11.26.2006 at 05:34 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

We are happy to hear that your folks are stabilized and that you have a large enough family to be able to support them by being there. It is daunting to try and reorganize your lives for them but I am sure they are most appreciative.

I'm a rock hound too, but have slowed down considerably since I no longer move from one state to another every couple months like I did for 20 years. I haven't been hunting since I went to Hillridge Farms in Youngsville with the grandchildren but I suppose that doesn't count anyway when you just BUY a bag to sluice for rough "gems" that are native to NC. It really is more fun to climb into mines or caves, or pan for gold in the mountains, but not in winter.

Good luck with your xls rockhunting! Since there may be some people on this site who don't know about Arkansas's treasures I've put a website link here. There is a good page at this site too for children's experiments in growing crystals, even growing edible rock candy! Fun to do in the dead of winter when they can't play outdoors. If you don't know about the mines open to collecting in NC is a good place to start - or Google "rockhounding north carolina".

Nancy the nancedar

Here is a link that might be useful: Arkansas Rockhounding


clipped on: 12.01.2006 at 02:49 pm    last updated on: 12.01.2006 at 02:49 pm

RE: What do you wish you knew... (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: shari1332 on 07.04.2006 at 07:31 am in Carolina Gardening Forum

I second what Nancy says about the swaps. If you can make it to the Raleigh swap you will leave with more plants than you can imagine. Since I started going there has not been a single day that I have not had more plants than I had time to get in the ground. Another thing to check out is your local Master Gardening program if there is one- get on the email list. Our county's has sales once a year of plants they have propagated from their gardens at very low prices. I left with a trunk load one year(before I discovered the swap) for ten bucks.


clipped on: 07.04.2006 at 10:10 am    last updated on: 07.04.2006 at 10:10 am

deer problem -- what would you do?

posted by: dawgie on 06.14.2006 at 01:16 pm in Carolina Gardening Forum

I have come to accept the situation that deer will always be a problem where I live in N. Raleigh. We live near a large nature park (Durant) that is overpopulated with deer, and there is no hunting or other means of controlling the population. The deer weren't a problem until they cleared hundreds/thousands of acres of forest to build I-540, but they moved into nearby neighborhoods due to loss of habitat.

I have a lot of ornamental plants in my yard that the deer love to snack on, and they will eat them to the ground if I don't spray with repellents. I have successfully preserved most of my hostas with periodic spraying because they have large leaves that apparently retain the repellents well. However, my daylilies are hopeless. The deer have eaten nearly all of the flower buds off my daylilies before bloom for the past 4-5 years. It's useless trying to spray them because they grow so quickly while flowering and the repellent doesn't adhere well to the buds. Might work if I sprayed the new buds every single day, but that would be too expensive, time consuming and pointless when were have rainy spells.

Here's my dilemma. I have at least 30 large daylilies planted around my yard that never succeed in flowering any more. From a landscaping perspective, they are useless and they probably are attracting deer to my yard. I might as well get rid of them, but that would involve digging them all up, replacing all the holes with good soil, and finding/buying replacement plants that the deer won't eat. I wouldn't mind swapping or giving them away, but that would involve a lot of work and I don't have any soil/plants to replace them with. Any ideas or suggestions? What would you do?


Install a 7-8' deer fence. I would hate for you to give all your lovely daylilies away only to find the deer will just munch on everything else.

RE: deer problem -- what would you do?

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Posted by brenda_near_eno Z7a (My Page) on
Wed, Jun 14, 06 at 14:12
Yep, the deer will eat anything. I got rid of my daylilies 2 years ago (traded thru plant trade forum and got replacements), but they ate anything and everything else I put in. I have found nothing they won't eat, sooner or later. The Rutgers list is useless in my yard. Fence or spray. I went to a stream health talk this weekend and Ken Bridle said they like to eat stuff we fertilize - something to do with ion/salt content of fertilized new growth. They've eaten euphorbia in my yard.

RE: deer problem -- what would you do?

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Posted by maven 7b (My Page) on
Wed, Jun 14, 06 at 15:05
Whoa dawgie! Put down that shovel! I purchased some systemic deer repellent tablets at Buchannan's Nursery (Western Blvd.Raleigh ) that have proven tremedously successful with keeping the deer away from my hostas and daylilies. The tablet has to go into the soil near the roots. I used a planting dibble to stick a hole and dropped in a tablet. I used 3 tablets in a triangle shape for each plant. The nasty taste gets taken up by the plant and no more spraying is needed. I get 2 reliable years and can push it to a 3rd spring if I'm feeling lucky. Wear gloves! The tablets will leave a nasty taste on your hands!

RE: deer problem -- what would you do?

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Posted by brenda_near_eno Z7a (My Page) on
Wed, Jun 14, 06 at 15:20
Maven, my wildlife savior, how much are these miracle tablets? Could I protect an acre or two within reason? I'd heard about these tablets being out there, but not how effective they were. Great news.

RE: deer problem -- what would you do?

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Posted by hollyclyff z7 NC (My Page) on
Wed, Jun 14, 06 at 20:13
Yeah - what Brenda said. I wonder if they make the roots taste bad to voles too. Boy, that would sure be nice. Do you have to put three tablets for each plant if they are all planted together in a bed? I have hundreds of daylilies. Every year I've had some deer damage but last year was the worst. They ate almost all the buds off all of them. This year I spread Milorganite all around them and haven't had any deer damage yet (knock on wood), but it could just be coincidence.

RE: deer problem -- what would you do?

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Posted by dawgie z7NC (My Page) on
Thu, Jun 15, 06 at 9:55
Maven -- What is the namebrand of the systemic deer repellent tablets you bought? Buchanans is no longer in business, and I haven't seen them anywhere else.
Unfortunately a fence is out of the question in my yard. Our covenents for neighborhood association prohibit fences higher than 4', which would be a little hop for any deer. Plus I couldn't seal off my entire yard. The deer would just go around the fence or hop over it.

I actually have been fairly successful finding alternative plants for my yard that deer don't like to eat, but it definitely limits your choices. So far, deer have not bothered any ornamental grasses that I've planted as well as ferns, hellaborus, heucherias, sages and salvias, various herbs, lungwort. Unfortunately, however, I had collected/planted a large number of daylily and hosta varieties before the deer became a problem, and it's hard giving up on them.

RE: deer problem -- what would you do?

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Posted by plantbug 7 NC (My Page) on
Thu, Jun 15, 06 at 11:44
A fence does wonders and I have had plants with leaves and blooms for the past 3 years. They do have a design for a double fence that is not as tall as 7' and seems this also will keep the deer at bay.
Per those tablets mentioned, does it mean after 3 years you have to redig the plant and add more tablets?

RE: deer problem -- what would you do?

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Posted by brenda_near_eno Z7a (My Page) on
Thu, Jun 15, 06 at 12:02
Dawgie, spray your heucheras and black&blue salvia - the deer just haven't gotten around to them yet. Other salvias, grasses, hellebores, most ferns are OK for me. They sure love toadlily though.

RE: deer problem -- what would you do?

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Posted by dirtysc8 (My Page) on
Thu, Jun 15, 06 at 13:55
Deer avoid my neighbors' yards and head straight for mine. Using Deer-Vik works, but it's really not possible to put it everywhere. I recently spent $40 for Deer Fence, and it appears to be working (knock on wood!). It's a spray that withstands water, fortunately.

clipped on: 06.16.2006 at 11:41 am    last updated on: 06.16.2006 at 11:43 am