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grout decision--help!?! finished pics anyone?

posted by: racheldiane on 05.09.2011 at 09:09 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We have to decide on a grout color tomorrow!
Our bathroom floor is going to be 1 inch honed carrara hex tiles. (white subway tile on walls to chair rail height, higher in shower area, blue-gray paint above that, white vanity, black clawfoot tub) Bathroom is 4 feet wide by 11 feet long (including tub).

We don't want white grout because, among other reasons, we have a toddler = no time to clean grout with a toothbrush. So we're looking at grays. I've done three samples so far and I'm running out of time! The tile stores near us all carry Super-Tek, and Lowe's carries Laticrete.

Super-Tek "Silver Grey" was too dark.
Laticrete "Silver Cloud" was too light. (Seemed much lighter than pics I've seen on this site)
Super-Tek "Misty Grey" was too warm. It was a little darker than the "Silver Cloud" but the wrong color. Hmmm.

Possibly Laticrete "Smoke Grey" will be the answer to all my grout problems??

Has anyone used that color? Even better, has anyone used that color with carrara tiles? Pictures of ANY grey Super-Tek or Laticrete grouts that might help us decide?? Thanks!

NOTES:

info about white subways and grout color
clipped on: 05.10.2011 at 11:49 pm    last updated on: 05.10.2011 at 11:49 pm

Remodel almost done! Photos

posted by: zippy_one on 06.30.2009 at 01:22 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Our bath remodel is just about done!
A little painting, and window treatment, shower curtain to go.

Thanks to all for help along the way!

Sorry for the photo quality-I would redo, but camera is not cooperating...

Here is a link that might be useful: Nearly there!

NOTES:

white subway with Misty Gray grout
clipped on: 05.10.2011 at 11:40 pm    last updated on: 05.10.2011 at 11:40 pm

Finished IKEA kitchen: Tidaholm & soapstone

posted by: sw_in_austin on 02.06.2010 at 06:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

After some encouragement on the recent IKEA Kitchens thread, I finally decided to post our finished kitchen. I've kind of gone crazy with the pictures and descriptions; I hope it's not too much.

We are more than happy with our decision to use IKEA cabinets. They cost about $6,000 less than a comparable kitchen done with Kraft Maid in maple. Because we saved those dollars we felt comfortable spending more on the soapstone and the backsplash. And we are completely happy with how the cabinets look and function. Who knew I could love full-extension, soft-close drawers so much? If I had any doubts they were put to rest when our somewhat snooty neighbor came in and looked around and said, "Nice. Are they custom?"

The old kitchen was original to the house, which was built in 1945. The cabinets were painted metal, there was no dishwasher, too little storage, and counters were crowded with microwave, toaster oven, and dish drainer. We lived with it for 15 years (we intended to redo it much sooner but other projects -- two kids not the least of those -- intervened).

The kitchen functioned well, layout-wise, and we left the main elements in place. We removed a strange peninsula at one end of the long side and took the wall between kitchen and dining room (behind the stove in the picture below) down to half-height. We took out a door to the backyard that we never used and replaced it with a window. We took out a hot water heater closet (and put in an on-demand unit that hangs on an exterior wall), which gave us 4 additional linear feet of cabinets and counters.

Here is the old kitchen, taken as we were packing up. I did give up my O'Keefe & Merritt stove, which I loved as a sculptural object and for sentimental reasons, but the need for a stove with a smaller footprint and a bigger oven won the day.

Here is the new kitchen:

At the last minute we decided to make a space within our new pantry (white doors at right below) to house the microwave. It got the micro off the main counter and having it out of the way is just fine. The pantry was custom-built to fit in the space of what had been a shallow regular-height closet. Now it gives us floor to ceiling storage.

We pulled the base cabinets next to the refrigerator out 5 inches to keep our existing frig from sticking out; the counters here are about 30 inches deep. We also hung 30-inch-tall uppers here (others are 39-inch) with a floating shelf (of IKEA butcher block) below.

We had a cart built of butcher block and steel from the local welding shop that slides under the counter. The bookshelf above was built of the same materials. The black cabinet at right was built by our carpenter to fit a shallow spot to the right of the new window. One slab of soapstone took care of most of the counters, but using butcher block over this section worked out perfectly.

Sills for the new windows made of soapstone tiles. Much better than the old painted wood.

We had this big blank wall (cabinets here wouldn't have left room for the table where we eat almost all our meals) so we painted a piece of masonite with chalkboard paint and bolted it to the wall. The corkboard covers the circuit box, which would have cost $1500 to move.

We love steel so we had the pass-through top made of 1/2-inch sheet steel.

Details:

Cabinets: IKEA, Tidaholm door style (European white oak; solid oak frame with veneer center), except for custom-built pantry and one shallow cabinet beneath the bookcase, stained ebony; bookcase and cart also custom built of steel angle-iron uprights and IKEA butcher block shelves
Countertops: Beleza soapstone from Dorado Soapstone in Austin
Backsplash: Sonoma Tilemakers (from our favorite tile store, Architerra); subways are Star line, 3x6, color Trellis Green; glass tiles are Tantrum 1x2, color Tazo (chosen because it matched the green inclusions in the soapstone)
Grout: Light gray (maybe Oyster Gray?)
Hardware: Restoration Hardware Aubrey pulls in brushed nickel, 4-inch on doors, 6-inch on drawers
Pendants in front of windows: Meridian from Sundance Catalog
Pendant over kitchen table: IKEA (a placeholder to get the final inspection done; I was looking for a cone-shaped pendant to echo the Meridian pendants but with a solid or frosted shade; I couldn't find one in time and now we'll probably have this forever)
Undercabinet lights: Microfluorescent T4 light strips from Pegasus Associates Lighting (online)
Sink: Ticor S112 from Galaxy Tool Supply
Faucet: Kohler Essex with side spray in brushed nickel
Range: Kenmore Elite
Dishwasher: Kenmore Elite
Refrigerator: Kenmore (existing)
Floors: Existing long leaf pine (refinished)

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.07.2010 at 05:00 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2010 at 06:53 pm

Benjamin Moore paint question

posted by: mariposatraicionera on 08.06.2008 at 10:46 am in Home Decorating Forum

I am looking at a few "gray" colours by BM and would like to know if anyone has used them, and if they were true to the sample chart.

Titanium 2141-60

Vanilla Milkshake 2141-70

Edgecomb Gray HC-173

Revere Pewter HC-172

NOTES:

Benjamin grays
clipped on: 10.03.2008 at 11:23 am    last updated on: 10.03.2008 at 11:23 am

RE: Same treatment for butcher block and soapstone? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mary_in_nc on 08.21.2008 at 08:56 am in Kitchens Forum

Another one here who uses a combo beeswax/mineral oil on both my soapstone and butcher block. I feel my stone stays dark longer with it. I love the way my butcher block looks and feels with it. Does a great job of protecting my butcher block. I shopped around and found the best deal on ebay. THe seller is a very nice woman in Michigan who is also a wood worker.

Here is a link that might be useful: Beeswax/Mineral Oil on Ebay

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.24.2008 at 01:09 am    last updated on: 08.24.2008 at 01:09 am

Backsplash arrangement - help me choose. (4 versions w-pix)

posted by: janran on 08.03.2008 at 12:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have 3 x 6 subway tiles (tumbled marble) and 1/2 inch stone mosaics. I want to use 3 rows of mosaics as a border, and I'd rather not have the decorative border interrupted by electrical outlets. Two rows will fit beneath the outlets. I may have the electician move them, depending on the cost. Versions #1 and #2 require the outlets to be moved either up or down. Versions #3 and #4 require no change to the outlets.

Can you tell me your favorite among all 4 and also your favorite between #3 and #4, in case we don't move the outlets. Thanks!

Version #1
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Verion #2
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Version #3
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Version #4
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NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.03.2008 at 03:22 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2008 at 03:22 pm

RE: Contractor is telling me that tile backsplashes don't hold up (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: bill_vincent on 07.11.2008 at 06:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

Tell your contractor to TAKE A HIKE!! If he doesn't want to install the backsplash, tell him to leave it painted sheetrock, and you'll get someone who WILL.

Epoxy grout isn't the cure for the joint where it hits the countertop. You want that to be a pliable joint, so the countertop can move independently of the wall, without the joint cracking. If you use epoxy grout and grout that joint, what happens then is there's still going to be movement, but because the grout will actually be stronger than the tile, guess what's going to crack instead? That MUST be caulking, and preferrably a siliconized latex caulking made to match the color and texture of the grout, by the same manufacturer as the grout.

WHAT A JERK!!

one other thing-- that 4" backsplash is NOT required, if you don't have him tile it. All that's needed is to seal the joint between the countertop and the wall with silicone. Then, at your leisure, you can go ahead and install the backsplash.

NOTES:

regarding joint between tile backsplash and counter
clipped on: 07.13.2008 at 06:06 pm    last updated on: 07.13.2008 at 06:06 pm

99% done cottage kitchen

posted by: jrdip on 04.28.2008 at 07:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

I just wanted to thank everyone for letting me vent and ask questions over the past couple of months. Did I thank everyone enough for letting me vent? We are almost done with our complete house remodel of a 1929 bungalow and just in time for baby! It has been a long process filled with many headaches but I wouldn't change a thing and am so glad we decided to do renovate this house. It is a very small kitchen but through careful planning and editing it is a very efficient kitchen for us and how we live and cook, and somehow I managed to stay within my 22K budget. Here is a list of all products used and I hope yall enjoy.
Thanks, Jen

wall and trim color: sw alabaster white
cabinet color: sw mindful gray
cabinets: armstrong cabinets
countertops: honed carrara marble
cabinet hardware: rh dakota 6" pull in aged pewter
appliances: ge profile
sink: whitehaus 30" farmhouse sink (I got this for 300!)
faucet: 75 off of ebay
tile: daltile 3x6 folio subway handmade and handglazed subway tile
shades: lowes sahara roman shades
sliding door track: crown industrial
sconces: visual comfort library sconce
lighting over counter: custom made
stool: antique milk pail

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NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.23.2008 at 12:02 am    last updated on: 06.23.2008 at 12:03 am

Finally Finished: Kitchen pics...

posted by: dcb1_2008 on 06.17.2008 at 09:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

I want to thank everyone for all the help and advice! This forum has been so helpful. My kitchen is done and here are some pictures.

-Wolf DF304 range
-GE profile refrigerator
-Bosch DW
-GE microwave
-Kobe rangehood
-Glass tile backsplash 2" x 4"
-Delta Allora faucet
-Insinkerator instant hot
-Waste King disposal
-Cambrian Black Antiqued Granite











NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.17.2008 at 11:38 pm    last updated on: 06.17.2008 at 11:38 pm

RE: wood counter? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: writersblock on 06.16.2008 at 09:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

>Don't go cheap on a wood top, they are not all created equal.

No, but Ikea has very nice butcherblock very inexpensively. Search for jenswren's posts about her counter:

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.16.2008 at 10:30 pm    last updated on: 06.16.2008 at 10:30 pm

RE: Soapstone fabrication questions -- need help (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: vwhippiechick on 06.06.2008 at 08:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

Not sure if you can tell in these pics, we have a slight negative reveal. It looks very nice, is easy to clean and the silicon does not show. We have not had any problems with chipping etc as yet.

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NOTES:

Neutral/slightly negative reveal in soapstone
clipped on: 06.08.2008 at 02:31 pm    last updated on: 06.08.2008 at 02:32 pm

RE: Sink reveal / edge profile questions -- Please Help Me (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: jtsgranite4us on 06.06.2008 at 08:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have an Elkay stainless steel sink which is designed to have a positive reveal. The edges are polished. We wanted a positive reveal because you can see what needs cleaning. The sink edge reveal is about 1/4".

Here is a picture:

Elkay Sink

NOTES:

sink with rounded corners and slightly positive reveal
clipped on: 06.07.2008 at 01:36 am    last updated on: 06.07.2008 at 01:36 am

Hippiechick's DIY kitchen- ''Are they ever really finished?''

posted by: vwhippiechick on 05.29.2008 at 10:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have resisted posting "finished" pix as we are still planning some modifications to the cabinets. But I wanted all the posters who have helped me so very much to see the final product before they have drifted away. Thanks to all who answered my questions and gave opinions on my selections - everyone was so supportive and helpful.

Here is the lowdown on the materials:

Mouser Custom Cabinetry - Creme Distressed with Square Inset Coventry doors and Knotty Alder with Russett stain Square Inset Amity Doors
Paint - Cafe by Devine (THE most difficult choice)
Electrolux Icon 36" Dual Fuel Range (lovelovelove it!)
Electrolux Icon 36" Vent Hood
Tapmaster - toekick activation (the best recommendation by GW'ers)
Samsung French Door Refrigerator
Asko Prostyle (whatever that means) dishwasher
Danze Parma Prerinse stainless steel faucet (aesthetic is so-so but function is exceptional)
Danze Parma SS soap/lotion dispenser
Travertine Floors (running bond pattern) "Premium Noce" 18"x18" from Lowe's (killer deal on these)
Soapstone Counters - Amazon prefab'd by Maine Soapstone (great company-did exactly what they said they would)
Ticor single bowl sink (another great recommendation from this forum)
Stainless Steel Quilted backsplash - Ebay vendor -Rigidized Metals (great customer service)
Lisbon Linen - curtain fabric
Berenson Hardware - cup pulls and knobs

From the old kitchen:
Chandelier from Lowe's
Freestanding island with butcherblock top from local furniture store
Vintage Hoosier Kitchen cabinet - wedding gift from grandmother

We are still planning some modifications to make the alder cabinets look more furniture like. We will put an alder paneled backsplash with custom corbels and panel the dishwasher with alder. We are also discussing a backsplash under the painted cabinets on either side of the vent hood - possibly cream colored subway tiles??

The decorating touches seem to stump me. We need pictures etc to pull it all together and give it that really complete look. Any suggestions are welcome!!

BEFORE - The old kitchen- that pink was not easy to live with but eventually you sort of get desensitized to it. ;-)

Before pix

DURING
More install - it took two full days

AFTER
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This is the area where we plan to use the paneled backsplash, corbels and integrate the dishwasher with an alder panel.
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We are really enjoying the changes. Thanks again to everyone!

NOTES:

beautiful soapstone counters with Ticor S112 sink
clipped on: 06.07.2008 at 01:26 am    last updated on: 06.07.2008 at 01:27 am

RE: Show me your Shaw's/Counter reveal! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: acountryfarm on 05.02.2008 at 03:22 am in Kitchens Forum

Here is mine, I think I will like it

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NOTES:

neutral ??? sink reveal
clipped on: 06.06.2008 at 06:41 pm    last updated on: 06.06.2008 at 06:41 pm

Advice Please- Undercabinet Lighting

posted by: jacobsmishpacha on 05.29.2008 at 07:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

I need to get my undercabinet lighting ordered right away and the more I look the more confused I am. One problem is that all three of my kids (twin 3 yr old boys and homeschooled 10 year old) are home so I can't go out and look at stores, instead needing to rely on online searches. I am hoping that I can get close enough to a decision to (if necessary) run out and buy (or order online) what I want.

So, I am hoping some of the experts here can give me a hand. I am looking for lights which are as COOL as possible and as energy efficient as possible. The kitchen is well lit, so these don't need to be super bright lights. I am also hoping for something which is low profile and sturdy (one member of our household has a tendency to be a bit vigorous and bang and break things when rushing). There will be a trim on the base of the cabinets which should help quite a bit.

The wiring is already in, so no special needs as far as electrics are concerned.
Thank you for helping!!!

NOTES:

good info re fluorescents uc
clipped on: 05.29.2008 at 10:35 pm    last updated on: 05.29.2008 at 10:35 pm

RE: Restoration Hardware Pull (Lots of posts on knobs/pulls today (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: californiagirl on 05.14.2008 at 03:48 pm in Kitchens Forum

Uh-oh. I spent my morning looking for pulls like the first one pictured. I have accidentally bumped into trendy (again!) without meaning to. Our 1936 house came with glass knobs and window pulls that look like the RH stuff and I was hoping to pick something similar for our new kitchen/addition.

From what I can see, lots of manufacturers produce similar pulls, usually called window lifts, sash pulls or utility pulls. Some are cheaper coated zinc but the better and more expensive ones are solid brass and can be found plated in different finishes, which varies by manufacturer. You need to try different search terms to find them online because different manufacturers call them different names, but generally they are intended for window hardware, not kitchen cabinets, so if you look at a manufacturer or hardware site under a cabinet hardware subheading they won't show up.

So far I have found similar pulls made by Baldwin (solid brass), Samuel Heath (UK), Schlage (solid brass), Croft (UK), Ives, Rocky Mountain, Merit Metal (solid brass), Brass Accents and Deltana (solid brass).

One of these may be the actual manufacturer for RH. Some are less expensive than RH, like Schlage and Ives, some are similar, like Baldwin. I don't know why Deltana is so pricey but maybe somebody else can shed light on this company and why it charges more.

For the larger sizes, look for what are called cabin door pulls. Merit Metal has some great looking ones, though not cheap. It seems like hardware meant for marine use has to be sturdier, so I have found some great-looking hardware at sites selling to boat and yacht owners (cool lighting for bathrooms, too).

I haven't gotten to the glass knob matching yet, so if anybody has done research on those maybe we can start a different thread.

NOTES:

from thread about RH Aubrey pulls (and cheaper alternatives)
clipped on: 05.14.2008 at 05:42 pm    last updated on: 05.14.2008 at 05:42 pm

RE: Cabinet Hardware (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: buehl on 05.09.2008 at 10:10 am in Kitchens Forum

I agree with Ccoombs, "builder grade" is usually cheap quality. Try some of these sites that others have used for some of the better knobs & pulls, their prices are usually pretty good...

www.myknobs.com
www.thehardwarehut.com
www.pullsdirect.com
www.leevalley.com/hardware/index.aspx?c=2 (hardware index)
directdoorhardware.com

eBay in general once you know what brand/design you want...e.g., Sonoma Hardware (eBay store)

For some unique or unusual knobs & pulls (not necessarily inexpensive!):

www.anneathome.com
www.sokostudio.com


HTH!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 05.10.2008 at 06:47 pm    last updated on: 05.10.2008 at 06:47 pm

RE: Cabinet Hardware (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: ccoombs1 on 05.09.2008 at 09:49 am in Kitchens Forum

Builder's grade means cheap. Many builders (probably most builders) go with cheap but decent looking to save money on construction costs. Sometimes the quality is fine, sometimes it's not. I have never used these people before, but check out this link. My cabinet guy has used them and likes them. They have a great selection. Also check out IKEA. Selection is limited, but pricing is great.

Here is a link that might be useful: Cool Knobs and Pulls

NOTES:

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clipped on: 05.10.2008 at 06:47 pm    last updated on: 05.10.2008 at 06:47 pm

websites for light fixtures?

posted by: kemmc23 on 05.08.2008 at 08:16 am in Kitchens Forum

Any great websites to purchase light fixtures? I am looking for a light over the island, as well as a light for over our kitchen table.

Thanks!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 05.08.2008 at 10:35 pm    last updated on: 05.08.2008 at 10:35 pm