Clippings by susanwrites

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

RE: Your Own Housecleaning Habits (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: singingsky_z5 on 09.19.2010 at 04:05 pm in Cleaning Tips Forum

Hi, Graywings..LOL on the triage approach!

And hello to you, addictedtoroses! I think everyone has her/his own set of circumstances, and yours do differ from mine. No dogs here, not so many kids at home any longer, no construction. However, I am disabled, which necessitated an organized approach. Maybe my list can be of some help if you modify it for yourself.

Keep Lists!! Declutter once and for all!! Simplify!! (Well, that's my motto. LOL)

EVERYDAY chores: Swish & Swipe in the bathrooms (got that from Flylady), make the beds, make meals, do dishes, make meals, spray and clean sink & countertops & stovetop after each meal. None of this takes long but there are only three of us here.

SUNDAY: Dust throughout, do the laundry
MONDAY: Swipe down the living room & hallway walls, vacuum thoughout
TUESDAY: Clean entire kitchen (including outside of all appliances), sweep throughout
WEDNESDAY: Mop throughout, do the laundry
THURSDAY: Thoroughly clean both bathrooms, wash the c-pap and inhaler hubby and I need
FRIDAY: Dust throughout again, do extras (i.e. clean monitors & TV screen, wipe kitty noseprints from the windows, etc.)
SATURDAY: Change the bedding, vacuum throughout again and spot clean
---------------------------
Hubby scoops out the kitty litter each day and takes trash out. Son keeps his bathtub and shower very clean. The guys take care of the car and the lawn. Stanley Steemer comes early spring and mid-fall to clean the carpets, two recliners and small sofa - not a big expense since our home is small.
---------------------------------
The guys have learned the habit of speaking up as soon as we are close to running out of anything they happen to notice, and I will walk from one end of the house to the other to put it on our running grocery list. If not, I forget it, having lost many brain cells over the years. :) We never, never hold onto any paper. The mail is dealt with immediately, check written for bills, all junk shredded. We don't subscribe to a newspaper or magazines. Don't collect things and have no clutter. The surfaces are easy to dust because there is not much on them.

Oh, we sound so perfect! Not so! Our house is clean, it is not perfectly spotless! (Don't ask to see our son's room.)

I think you have a bigger job to tackle.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.05.2010 at 02:29 pm    last updated on: 12.05.2010 at 02:29 pm

RE: White Walls are Done- Now the fun begins!! (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: bronwynsmom on 10.04.2010 at 09:34 am in Home Decorating Forum

You're probably right about the vertical hanging of the mirror, if you hang it above the rail...but you can still do it. It sounds like a peculiar idea, but it looks from your photos as if your chair rail and wainscot is not very deep.

If that's the case, and if the mirror has a strong, long enough picture wire, you can use a pair of Floreat 75 lb hangers placed at least 18 inches apart, and attach a spacer of some kind to the top of the frame to allow it to sit away from the wall enough to match the clearance over the chair rail.

It might be worth having somebody hold it up there to see if it seems possible. If you arranged things in my scheme, the fact that it's sitting a bit away from the wall would be of less consequence, since there is no sight line to the side from where anyone is sitting or standing. The big question is shadow, which can make it look odd if it's more than a little bit away from the wall, but with a lamp in the corner, it might be fine.

Floreat hangers are the only kind I use, and I recommend them to everyone. The 75 lb ones look like this:
floreat_75
The great thing about these hangers is that every size uses the same pins, which make a tiny hole in the wall, and they are very easy to remove, and strong as mules in drywall. You only have to tap the pins in...no heaby whanging with the big hammer!

I buy them from Ziabicki on line...(no connection to me), as they offer good service and the best price by a long shot. Here's a link, which shows you all the sizes. The 8.50 price for the 75-lb ones is for a package of 10. Blick artist supply sells them for 2.27 each, if you buy fewer than six.

But if that won't work or feels too peculiar to you, you can hang it vertically over the sofa with its bottom edge just barely above the chair rail. With window treatments that go all the way to the ceiling, those two things will make your ceiling seem higher, and open up that wall as though it were a high window or doorway.

On to the rug...see if you can get a sample of the rug material from the source. Some natural fiber rugs are hard on bare feet, which is an issue for me, and some of them stain easily, so a test of both those factors might be useful. I like wool sisal for that reason, but it is more costly. In any case, a really good pad is essential, both for comfort and a luxurious look and feel, but also because your rug will wear far better with a good pad under it.

Here is a link that might be useful: Floreat hangers

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.04.2010 at 02:48 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2010 at 02:48 pm

beekeeperswife...the backsplash is in

posted by: srg215 on 07.06.2010 at 07:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

unfortunately the manufacturer didn't have enough stock of the 4x12 for me and my builder needed to do the backsplash in order to put the vent hood on which is necessary to close, so we couldn't wait for the 4x12s. we did 4x6s. i love it.

Photobucket

Photobucket

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.04.2010 at 01:31 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2010 at 01:31 pm

Budget Bathroom Makeover Done! (pics)

posted by: diymadness on 09.11.2010 at 02:13 am in Home Decorating Forum

Hi everyone,

I posted about a month ago about a budget bathroom makeover that I was embarking on. Many of you helped me with my work on refinishing my golden oak vanity and figuring out what to do about the very dated medicine cabinet and Hollywood lights. Thank you again for all your help.

Anyway, I have finished the project and I'm very happy with the final outcome. I'm posting some before and afters as well as a source list/budget. But first, a little background. When I moved into this house, the bathroom was the least offensive room. It had been added on in the 1990s and was just dull -- cheap, beige, and builder basic. Other, awful 70s decor was more pressing. Anyway, after 7 years, water damage in the bathroom forced me to do something. I knew that the tub surround would have to be ripped out and so I thought I would get a new and deeper tub, and since the floor needed repairing, I thought I would replace the vinyl with tile. And I decided to add a ventilation fan to prevent future moisture problems. But I had very little money for this unexpected reno, so I wanted to save everything else -- the layout, the vanity, and the toilet. The whole thing turned out to be more complicated than expected because the handyman that I hired discovered that there was a crack in the base of my toilet and extensive damage to the floor. The subfloor was also made of fiberboard, which is not suitable to lay tile on. The poor guy had to take the floor down to the joists (without touching the vanity, which I had spent forever refinishing with Polyshades.)

Here are the befores and afters:

Vanity before:

Vanity after:

Tub before:

Tub After:

Window wall before:

Window wall after:

Old light fixture:

New light fixture:

And here's a closeup of my little art project. I picked some native plants in my garden, pressed them, spray painted them silver and framed them:

Here's a list of budget and sources:

Tile from Home Depot -- $3/foot

Medicine Cabinet -- $32 (final clearance) at Homesense

Soaker Bathtub -- Home Depot, $300

Paint -- Barely Beige, Benjamin Moore

Trim -- Ivory White, Benjamin Moore

Shower curtain -- about $30 on Amazon

Bath Mat -- $20 Pier One

Light fixture -- $100 at Home Depot

Toilet -- used, $75

Blind -- Miscut at Home Depot so 50% off, $22

Glass shelves -- these were my big splurge at $60 each

Towel rod, towel ring, paper holder -- Home Depot, probably
$100 all together.

Most of the accessories are from Dollarama. The frames were $2 each. The tissue box cover was $2. The glass jars were $1 each.

I estimate that, including all materials and labour, the bathroom cost about $3800. I know that that's nothing to sneeze at, but I think it's not bad considering that the handyman had to install new tile board around the tub, new plywood on the floor, and wire in a new ventilation fan, in addition to all the "visible" work.

Thanks for looking at my new bathroom. It makes me smile every time I go there.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.03.2010 at 12:15 am    last updated on: 10.03.2010 at 12:15 am

RE: How to make my LR cozy? (Follow-Up #146)

posted by: kmcg85 on 09.26.2010 at 01:39 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Here are the Mary Carol Open House pics! Enjoy!
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.27.2010 at 12:32 am    last updated on: 09.27.2010 at 12:32 am

rererere (Follow-Up #137)

posted by: sheesharee on 09.24.2010 at 02:45 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Taking a break.

Just for fun I wanted to post a few photos from the book I was talking about earlier. I'm sure many of you have it. Nell Hill's "Feather Your Nest".

I know my house lacks the architectural character but I completely drool over these photos. Some of the accessories are a little much, like the pears on the silver stand in the LR and what's that china beside it all about?, but I still love how the pictures look.

This baffles me... I'm not wild about yellow paint and don't know that I could deal with it in my house (gold please) yet it took me a awhile to realize this room is pretty darn bright.
Photobucket
Photobucket
Look at those puurdy floors.
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
I think this room belongs to Cynthia in the book, not Lisa.
Photobucket
IRL I think the wallpaper would be too much for me. If I only had a powder room.
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket
Photobucket

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.27.2010 at 12:25 am    last updated on: 09.27.2010 at 12:26 am

RE: How to make my LR cozy? (Follow-Up #140)

posted by: kellyeng on 09.25.2010 at 12:32 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I think you have great bones. Don't get so worked up about getting rid of stuff like the wing back chair. What your room needs to cozy it up is texture, layering and proportion.

That room screams for some bold blacks, more stuff on the walls and tables. Get some snapshots of family framed and on the walls and tables. Baskets are a great idea to add texture. Pillows with different patterns - no matching. Old hardback books are great. Don't worry if you're not a reader. I have a ton of books that have never been read. I do like to get books with subjects I find interesting then who knows, maybe I'll read them some day!

Layering ads depth to a room and I think is the hardest part to decorating. Formal rooms tend to be at right angles, so add a touch of whimsy by getting your ottoman (which I love) and placing it at an angle to your couches. Kinda like you just pushed it out of the way and there it stayed. Lighting is a huge part of layering so don't forget to turn on your lamps. Also, knick-knacks are so important to adding personality and it's not just what you use but how you place them. Accessories should never be symmetrical. Symmetry says formal.

You need big stuff in that room. Over-sized says comfy and I think you have that with your EC and couches. A great example of what I mean is that you put your laundry basket in the room and then said you thought it was too big. Actually, it's too small. I could see a huge basket in that same spot stuffed with pillows and and a couple of throws.

Here are some pics I think you might like:


Photobucket


Photobucket


Photobucket


Photobucket


Photobucket


Photobucket


NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.27.2010 at 12:23 am    last updated on: 09.27.2010 at 12:24 am

Fall colors- family room

posted by: loribee on 09.03.2010 at 10:34 am in Home Decorating Forum

I'm home today, waiting for Hurricane Earl to stop by so I thought I'd share what I'm working on in the family room. Here's the spring/summer version:

Photobucket

For fall, I added wicker pieces and rugs from the other rooms and tried to incorporate the colors of watermelon, deeper blue and gold. I did buy the blue pillows- Sam's $16.97. Do you think I need more melon colored pillows maybe? Thanks for looking~

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.24.2010 at 09:33 pm    last updated on: 09.24.2010 at 09:33 pm

RE: Okay, so how about deep brown/black espresso cabinet color? (Follow-Up #67)

posted by: tomdbaker on 07.19.2009 at 03:58 am in Home Decorating Forum

The process to refinish the cabinets was actually quite simple but very labor intensive.

Supplies needed:

Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo Bittersweet Chocolate Oil Based paint or whatever color you like (Gallon Goes a long way)
4 Inch foam rollers
1 inch Purde oil based brush
Rotary sander with 200-220 grit disks.
200 or Extra Fine sanding sponge(s)
Box of TSP
Tack Cloth(s)

Procedure

Remove all doors and drawers from boxes
Put crown molding or whatever detail you like on cabinets.
Refresh the calk around edges with DAP painters calk around the cabs.
Set up a paint station in your garage or basement. Try not use the basement as it is humid and takes the paint longer to dry. I did mine in my garage where it was warmer and dried faster. I used blue tarp and place two 1 X 1 by 8 foot wood slats to set the doors on. The key is to create the cleanest environment as oil based paint attracts dust.

Don't worry about cleaning the doors. What I did is simply hit each one with a rotary sander to knock off the dirt, grime and glaze. Use a sanding sponge to sand the detail. After your done sanding give each door a TSP bath and place on the 1 by's and let dry. Make sure the back of the doors are facing up.

If your cabinets have been previous refinished with stain and glaze, DO NOT Primer. If they are naked like my Island you will need to use primer. I used Benjamin Moore Oil based fresh start. After primer make sure you sand as primer is a rough base and use a tack cloth to get the dust off.

After everything is sanded and cleaned you are ready to roll. This oil based paint takes forever to dry so you will need to be patient because it will take a week or longer for the doors. Make sure you wait. I know everyone thinks waiting is overkill but with this paint you can get things like finger prints and other issues with it if you don't let it cure. With all of the labor it is worth the extra wait. If waiting is driving you that crazy schedule a week vacation lol and you won't have to worry about it. Final point is to wait a week after your done painting. Hey that's R3squared. I learned something in School. lol

Very important this first coat needs to be very thin. This is for three reasons. 1. you actually are using the paint as a primer (but it gives a smoother and darker finish as the fresh start you cannot get any darker then a purple). 2. this paint is very expensive and you don't want to waste. 3 you want to keep the detail of the door including the grain pattern so you dont want to get too thick. No more than two coats.

Painting procedure for inside door detail use 1 inch brush and brush a thin coat on detail. Use foam roller on all of the flat surfaces including the edges. Ensure on the first coat that you use light saturation in the roller to get a thin coat. Same goes for the Boxes. First coat is thin.

After everything has one coat and at least two days of drying time. Take a 220 sanding sponge and lightly sand everything and use a tack cloth to get the dust off. Thin follow the above procedure putting on a slightly thicker or final coat. Use long stokes with the roller from edge to edge. On boxes use 1 inch brush to cut the perimeter.

Let everything dry for two days then flip by this time the face of the doors are facing up. This is important because sometimes the paint will stick to the 1 by's and if it does it will be on the back of the doors. If you have a old fleece blanket you and rip it into shreds and line the 1 by's.

Now on the face same procedure thin coat with 1 inch brush on the detail and foam roll all of the flat surfaces. Let dry for two days sand lightly use tack cloth then apply second coat. When the doors and boxes are done I let them dry for a week to allow the paint to cure (Sound fimilar?).

If you have drips you can sand lightly and use 1 inch brush to touch up. I had maybe one or two this paint is awesome. With this paint less is better because it self levels.

After a week reassemble everything with your favorite hardware. On the Chocolate Brushed nickel looked awesome as it really stands out.

It will take about a month for the shine to subside. At first they will look very glossy. Don't worry this will go away and in the end they will look like chocolate stained cabinets.

Finally keep your 1 inch brush saturated with paint wrapped up in plastic shopping bag and place in freezer. Some spots will dry or absorb unevenly and you will need to touch up a few spots.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.24.2010 at 01:40 am    last updated on: 09.24.2010 at 01:40 am

RE: Okay, so how about deep brown/black espresso cabinet color? (Follow-Up #66)

posted by: tomdbaker on 07.15.2009 at 12:27 pm in Home Decorating Forum

All thank you so much for the information. I have finally completed my kitchen and am truly happy with the results. The Benjamin More Satin Impervo bittersweet chocolate paint worked flawless on the Oak Cabinets. I saved thousands by refurbishing the cabinets.
Tommy

PhotobucketKitchen Done

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.24.2010 at 01:40 am    last updated on: 09.24.2010 at 01:40 am

RE: Okay, so how about deep brown/black espresso cabinet color? (Follow-Up #33)

posted by: johnmari on 03.07.2008 at 03:02 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Gosh denali, I'm blushing! I always feel sooooo good when I can be an "inspiration" for someone.

teesyl2, we did not use a tinted primer, we used plain old Kilz primer and two coats of paint and coverage was just dandy. I chose BM Regal semigloss because that's what most people seem to like for cabinetry and it wasn't too shiny, but I think satin would be just fine if you like the level of sheen. Polyurethane is unnecessary and can actually lift or bubble the paint. (Remember, when you ask for it at the store, ask for Bittersweet Chocolate or they probably won't know what you're talking about.)

Remember also when painting cabinets, put cabinet door bumpers on the inside of all doors and behind the drawerfronts, because the doors and drawers can stick together until the paint has completely cured which can take a few days to a few weeks depending on the weather, the humidity, thickness of the coats, yadda yadda. With the Bittersweet Chocolate the clear rubbery bumpers were too visible on the doors and too thick behind the drawerfronts, so I picked up some of the plain old-fashioned dark brown felt "dots" at the hardware store. They disappeared right into the paint color and were thin enough that the drawers closed properly but didn't stick together.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.24.2010 at 01:40 am    last updated on: 09.24.2010 at 01:40 am

RE: Bathroom Cabinets-Black Bean or Choc. (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: citymomof3 on 12.31.2007 at 01:49 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Here's my black bathroom cabinets...

Photobucket
BEFORE

Photobucket
AFTER

Photobucket
BLURRY...SORRY

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.24.2010 at 01:36 am    last updated on: 09.24.2010 at 01:36 am