Clippings by susan_in_maine

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RE: Best Granite Sealer (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: jake20 on 06.04.2009 at 10:21 am in Kitchens Forum

the granite shop i purchased my slabs from, and my granite fabricator both recommended Miracle 511 impregnator

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Miracle 511, etc.
clipped on: 08.18.2009 at 10:13 am    last updated on: 08.18.2009 at 10:13 am

Secret Sources. Finding the best Ingredients

posted by: rubyfig on 07.30.2009 at 04:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

A sideline from the discussion on spice storage, I thought I would share a few of my all-time favorite mail order food "finds". Please add your favorites!
Here are mine:

For SPICES, Seasoned Pioneers. They export to the US. Their spice mixes are "one stop" for marinating and seasoning veggies, fish, meat, etc. and they bother to tell you which seasoning they like paired with which type of food. The mixes come in no-fuss air sealed zip packets and they are color coordinated by cooking region (which makes them easy to pair):
Seasoned Pioneers
www.seasonedpioneers.co.uk

For COFFEE, this is our all-time favorite source (whole bean). Although we have our favorites, I can't think of a coffee we didn't like. Seth Appell is as passionate about sourcing coffee as I think it is possible to be, and the end product shows it! He knows his stuff. "For a friend" Coupon code 31221 will save you $5 off your first order.
Old Bisbee Roasters
www.uniquecoffe.com

For CHICKENS we searched high and low for a year before we found this source for poultry. If you expect chicken breasts to be large enough to fill you, this is not for you. The organically fed chickens are small heritage breeds that are raised cage free in a safe and sanitary environment. The meat is very flavorful and the texture is as it should be (and we use every last bit of them!). Fabulous for eating and especially for homemade stocks.
Rainbow Ranch Farms
www.rainbowranchfarms.com

plllog, would you mind adding your Saffron source to this thread?

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clipped on: 08.05.2009 at 04:17 pm    last updated on: 08.05.2009 at 04:17 pm

RE: paper towel holder (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: jenna_j on 01.02.2009 at 11:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

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I like this one from Ballard Designs

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clipped on: 02.09.2009 at 05:55 pm    last updated on: 02.09.2009 at 05:56 pm

RE: Electric outlets and backsplash (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: lsandler on 01.25.2009 at 10:46 am in Kitchens Forum

I used angled plugmold on my perimeter cabs and island as well as an airswitch so I have wall mimimal outlets. LOVE them!

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clipped on: 01.26.2009 at 08:18 am    last updated on: 01.26.2009 at 08:18 am

RE: Our kitchen is finished (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: bayou_cityzens on 12.27.2008 at 07:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

Slateberry51: You are right; we are just off Buffalo Bayou. One of the 'nicknames' for Houston is Bayou City.

Re: the power strips: These are from Tripp Lite. If you decide to use these, a couple of hints: There different versions of these strips; they vary by length and by being corded or hard-wired. We went with the hard-wired, primarily because the outlets were ivory instead of black. However, mounting them was a real hassle. The corded ones have clips that you can mount to the cabinet, which then grip the strips. The hardwired ones have to have the housings mounted to the cabinets, which requires removing the cover that contains the outlets. The problem is re-attaching the cover, given the limited clearance between the wall and the back of the power strip. We swapped out the tiny screws that secured the cover plate to the body on each side of the strip with long screws that we just drove through from one side.

If this is not clear, and you need further info, just email me.

Here is a link that might be useful: Tripp Lite Power strips

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clipped on: 12.28.2008 at 06:29 pm    last updated on: 12.28.2008 at 06:29 pm

RE: Hfele Foot Pedal for Trash...want a chuckle? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: buehl on 10.04.2008 at 08:17 am in Kitchens Forum

Jnjmom...I ordered it from TrashCansAndMore. They have both versions...the one for trash bins hanging from rails and the one for trash bins sitting in a base.

Trash bins sitting on base: http://www.trashcansandmore.com/Hafele-502.15.113-YQ1004.html ($35 + 6.99 shipping)

Trash bins hanging from rails: http://www.trashcansandmore.com/Hafele-502.15.220-YQ1005.html ($59 + free shipping)

Another site that sells them: http://www.kitchensource.com/trash/ha-5-43.htm & http://www.kitchensource.com/trash/ha-5-44.htm [Note the $12 shipping + $10 minimum order fee/surcharge]

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clipped on: 12.01.2008 at 01:09 pm    last updated on: 12.01.2008 at 01:10 pm

My finished kitchen (with pictures)

posted by: sundownr on 10.28.2008 at 07:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have spent literally hours and hours reading this kitchen forum and learned so much. Some I learned too late to use in my kitchen but next time ... :)

I especially loved looking at all of the finished kitchens so I'll post mine, warts and all.

This is standing in the kitchen looking towards the dining room and living room. There originally was a wall separating the kitchen/DR where the change in flooring is. I had the carpet pulled up and refinished the original 1930's oak floors. I also need to call the lighting store and get some more chain for that chandelier. I had them center the outlet in the room in case we want to center the table but swag it where the table is now and there wasn't enough chain.

I need to replace some of the DR chairs but I do love the upholstered pieces. They were my mom's and this is the only place I could use them. White is not a good color for my house/family but I'll reupholster when needed. The DR table isn't as light as it looks here. It doesn't match the wood on the upholstered chairs but it is a much deeper, richer color.

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This shows the new kitchen and office space. We gutted the kitchen. It was 3 rooms in a 16 x 13 space. We also added 16' straight back to have a breakfast room, desk and laundry room. The original kitchen ended where the green/blue quilt is hanging on the wall. (No, the quilt doesn't live there. I made it over the weekend and I'm still working on it.)

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This is standing by the new door to the kitchen from the driveway.

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This is standing approximately in front of the quilt looking towards the kitchen/DR/LR

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This is standing next to the refrigerator looking into the office area. I promised myself I wouldn't let the desk get too cluttered. Need to work on that :) The laundry room/dog room is behind the door on the right.

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Cabinetry over stove
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Wine rack over refrigerator. I recently read this is a bad idea. I guess we'll have to drink fast :)
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Pantry - behind the two doors next to the quilt. Lovely, isn't it - haha.
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The over the door spice rack from Container store.
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Love, love, love the stove and ovens. You may be able to see the notes I have taped on the oven dials to show how many degrees each one is off. Parts are here and they'll be repaired next week. Don't you love the embroidered towels? I found the pattern on ebay and have only made these two. Five more to go.

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This came directly from these forums. The stone guy wanted to do the runnels without the drop/slope to the sink. I printed the picture that I had seen here and had them do it like this. Love it! They did too. The salesman nor the installers had seen it before.

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Final thoughts. Soapstone on the island, marble on the two counters between the DR and kitchen and also on the desk in the office and stainless steel on the counters and backsplash along the stove wall. Don't have any regrets about these choices. I didn't "love" any flooring so picked up some cheap porcelein tile. Alabaster white on cabinets and walls. May add color with paint or art. Haven't decided yet.

Favorites: Pull out trash, pull out cookies sheet drawer and another pull out cookie sheet drawer that we are using for our most used pans and skillets. Best drawer ever. Love the pantry and I've never had one. Will probably add a third door to the pantry because there is shelving back there and it's way too hard to use. Original plan was a sliding rack to hold cans, etc but that never happened and I like it the way it is. Spice rack - I spent hours on the internet and in stores looking for a large rack. Finally made it to the container store and they had the components to do an over the door rack with as many shelves as you need. I may add one on the other door for can storage and free up some of the shelves for dishes. I like the two work stations at the desk. I still have two kids at home, 12 & 14, and the extra work spot and computer are so handy when 2 or 3 of us needs/wants to be on the computer at the same time. Very handy.

Regrets: The "planner" I used wasn't specifically a kitchen planner. She did have some good ideas and she was the subcontrator for the kitchen cabinets. That turned out to be a 4 month nightmare. Ended up hiring someone else to finish and rebuild most of the cabinets. What's done is done but I'll never (famous last words) have work done like that without references. The contractor recommended her but she flaked on them too. When planning the kitchen I expressed a concern to her about not having enough cabinets and she did some calculations and told me I had way more than I started with. Wrong, wrong, wrong. The kitchen is full and I still have boxes full of dishes. I don't think I would have designed the kitchen differently because I love it the way it is but I wish I had known. The refrigerator: we chose a counter depth 36" wide. I really wanted a 48" and the husband vetoed that. Dumb move. This refrigerator holds so much less than the old one. Now we have our old refrigerator running outside in our old laundry room off of the carport. The island: I wish I had overhang on both ends. There is enough room to have done that and we use all 3 sides but there isn't any overhang on the refrigerator end. I also don't like the pendant lights over the breakfast table. I'm thinking of replacing them with a ceiling fan. This room gets hot when it's a 100 outside.

All in all I love my kitchen. I could spend all of my time in here. Over the weekend I brought the sewing machine in to the breakfast room and worked there because of all of the light and the windows. (Light was very high on the criteria list for the kitchen.) I still need window treatments - probably just white blinds. I also need some color somewhere but haven't decided what or where. The worst is behind us so now we'll just enjoy it.

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clipped on: 11.02.2008 at 09:35 am    last updated on: 11.02.2008 at 09:36 am

tkos and kias: progress, 'accessory', and produce pics

posted by: rhome410 on 09.08.2008 at 02:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

One of the only requirements I didn't say 'yes' to in the "How to tell if you're TKO" list was "Your pets match your kitchen." But how about now? This is Rosie and she's 4 months old. We just got her yesterday.

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These girls aren't too happy yet about the new addition. Our older dog is Shepherd Lab, so matches the kitties perfectly, but not the kitchen...

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When in Eastern Wash to pick up Rosie, we also loaded up on local produce...Boxes of pears, nectarines, apples, and tomatoes. Starting spaghetti sauce to freeze is on the schedule for this afternoon. My own tomatoes are still green and I'm looking for recipes to use those, too...Maybe green tomato mincemeat. But I've got tons of tomatoes and I don't think I'll want them all in mincemeat...

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I don't think I'll have to worry about having too many Italian Prunes to deal with... This was the scene outside our window this morning:

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Oh, yeah, the kitchen progress. In the photos with Rosie, you can see that I finally have panels on my dishwashers (one next to me and one with the nasty towel on it...I'll have to nip that in the bud), and that the island has doors and drawer fronts (we need to reconfigure the pulls and knobs for better balance...I'd initially forgotten the trash pullout would need a pull instead of a knob). The lift up doors are also installed beside the vent hood and over the oven.

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some great recipes in this post
clipped on: 10.09.2008 at 10:28 am    last updated on: 10.09.2008 at 10:28 am

Does Geo Thermal really use this much electricity??

posted by: snagd on 12.14.2005 at 09:02 am in Remodeling Forum

We just completely renovated an older farmhouse. It has all new insulation,doors,windows,etc. Well I just recieved my new bill and I can't believe how much higher it is. I have already used 980kw in 6 days. My highest kw usage in the summer with window air units was 1200. I was under the assumption that it only drew alittle when the unit started up. Well it does seem to run frequently. I also notice that the lights flicker when it starts to run. Could there be an installation error? Its very frustrating since it cost so much to buy in the beginning.Advice?Thanks!

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clipped on: 10.06.2008 at 07:55 pm    last updated on: 10.06.2008 at 07:55 pm

RE: jodi in so calif---your tile backsplash? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: jodi_in_so_calif on 03.31.2008 at 12:08 am in Kitchens Forum

BB, the Fire and Ice will always vary because of the wide range of colors in the quartz they use. We stressed out a bit about what the overriding tone would be at first and actually had the installer replace a few strips that were too light or too dark but overall when it was done it just didn't matter because it looked great.

You should know though that the darkest of the glass tiles (dark Amber) does not come with the backsplash, we purchased a square foot of the 2" glass pieces (~$25) and had the installer replace some of the white glass that comes standard from Jeffrey Court. You'll have to look closely to see the white glass, I count nine of them in the picture below.

We bought the dark Amber glass from a place in San Juan Capistrano, CA called Morena Tile (link below).

To answer your question ... our backsplash is more tan than gray. It looks pretty much as you see in the photo below. Our cabinets however are much lighter than the photo shows (not that you asked :-).

Kitchen backsplash and Aspire outlets

Jodi-

Here is a link that might be useful: Morena Tile

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clipped on: 07.09.2008 at 11:14 am    last updated on: 07.09.2008 at 11:14 am

My finished kitchen!

posted by: lmychajluk on 02.10.2006 at 08:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

Okay, almost...got to do window treatments and there's a couple of baseboard mouldings that still have to go in, but it's about done!

Thanks to everyone here that contributed, especially those who turned me on to the more expensive options! ;P

-Lee

Here is a link that might be useful: Lee's Kitchen

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integrated drain board here
clipped on: 06.21.2008 at 09:36 am    last updated on: 06.21.2008 at 09:36 am

Lazy susan, blind corners, or what?

posted by: joebayarea on 06.04.2008 at 11:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am still trying to lay out my kitchen. I hate the thought
of wasted space around corners.
In a small to medium kitchen, what are most of you doing?
My partner would prefer larger drawers and waste the corner
space, which would look best, but I would hate losing
the storage in the corner. THere are already so many
compromises in this remodel.

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clipped on: 06.05.2008 at 09:17 am    last updated on: 06.05.2008 at 09:17 am

Getting to the source of the clutter

posted by: bronwynsmom on 05.30.2008 at 04:43 pm in Organizing the Home Forum

Okay, all y'all...
I love hearing all these fabulous ideas about managing clutter, and I found myself thinking, why don't we swim to the headwaters of the river of stuff, and see if we can't stick a plug in it!
So what do you think the source of your recurring clutter actually is? Do you have ideas for stopping the flow at the source? Would this be a helpful thing for us to toss around?

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clipped on: 06.04.2008 at 05:47 pm    last updated on: 06.04.2008 at 05:47 pm

RE: Which granites do you consider 'bulletproof'? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: bluekitobsessed on 06.02.2008 at 01:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

As I understand the geology, the granites with lower water absorption rates are less likely to pick up water based stains. Here's a chart (which I found through this wonderful forum). Tom Cordova and Maurizio might also have some comments.

My granite is medium blue/grey and it survived my smear test -- choc syrup, ketchup, lemon juice, tomatoes, and other items left on kitchen countertops by slobby kids. I do recommend that (like me) you test a sample, and (unlike me) you do so before you fall in love and spend the money.

Here is a link that might be useful: Granite table

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clipped on: 06.03.2008 at 01:48 pm    last updated on: 06.03.2008 at 01:48 pm

neat site for granite shoppers

posted by: maggie3_2006 on 06.03.2008 at 09:19 am in Kitchens Forum

I happened upon this while trying to find pics of granite,
when you click on the granite you like you can match it to the color of the cabinets you want or allready have
Maggie
http://www.1000granitecolors.com/GraniteWithWoodGrains.asp?c=18&p=2319
Compare Granite with your Kitchen Cabinets

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clipped on: 06.03.2008 at 10:08 am    last updated on: 06.03.2008 at 10:08 am

RE: Victorian House: practically non-existant kitchen: HELP! (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: acountryfarm on 05.05.2008 at 01:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

Yes, you need to get them on Flickr or Photobucket. Its free on photobucket.
1. Set up your account
2. Download your pictures
3. Select pictures you want to post by checking the appropriate box
4. Convert to html and then paste into body of your post (there is a place a bottom of page that asks you to do this)
5. It then directs you to another page which asks you what format to use. I pick either the 1st or 2nd option. It automatically copies for you.
6. Then paste when you are done with your post on this forum. Paste it right in the body of post.

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clipped on: 05.07.2008 at 10:08 am    last updated on: 05.07.2008 at 10:08 am

RE: Dark green paperstone (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: jan_s on 04.17.2008 at 08:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

We got a richlite cutting board to test at home and found that it does scratch, but only if you TRY to scratch it. I also found that at least with the black richlite, I could not stain or damage it with anything. I tried bleach, wine, tomato sauce, vinegar, petroleum-based cleaners, lemon juice, comet, oils, other citrus or berry juices, milk products, alchohol, dishwasher soap, salt, every cleaning product in the house including oven cleaner, you name it. In every case I left the substance on the richlite sample overnight, at least, but nothing seemed to affect the texture or color. I've heard that prolonged sun exposure can affect some of the lighter colors but I only tested the black so I can't say. Our sample has been exposed in a sunny kitchen for over 6 months and I haven't noticed any fading.

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clipped on: 04.30.2008 at 01:33 pm    last updated on: 04.30.2008 at 01:33 pm

RE: Happy week with kitchen! (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: lgiorgi on 04.26.2008 at 11:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

mygar - The drawers with the tag are my dishdrawers.

suzica -I ordered them from a company called Bermex. You design your own.
http://bermex.ca/

The cup pulls I ordered from Myknobs.com They were called Classic Brass - Hyde Park Collection. I had a hard time finding anything that interested me. Finally I saw these. I really like them.

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clipped on: 04.27.2008 at 03:07 pm    last updated on: 04.27.2008 at 03:07 pm

RE: Challenge: anyone w/ induction exp who'd go back to gas? (Follow-Up #55)

posted by: jeff256 on 01.20.2007 at 06:44 pm in Appliances Forum

Like everyone else, I'm driven to put in my two cents. We are switching over to Induction, probably Diva. As an electrical engineer, I would like to make a point about the electical consumption. Induction is the most cost efficient way to cook - period, no discussion. A lot of power is used, but only for a short period of time. The energy transfer is extremely efficient to the pan as it is directly coupled and the air not heated. In fact, to make it even more efficient, put in a 60 amp service. A 60 amp will have less voltage drop and deliver more power with less wire heating. No one mentioned the major league problems with cleaning these large gas ovens. Takes longer to clean than to cook and if you don't clean quickly and often, the stainless becomes stained and looks awful. Also, to prevent sliding just use a paper towel, parcement, or one of the silicon pads. Overall, all the gas folks strike me as very defensive. As far as pots go, people on this site are routinely talking about putting $20-30K into appliances in a kitchen. Can't believe the cost of new pots is an issue. My wife can't wait to get new stuff - it was one of the reasons to buy induction.

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clipped on: 04.27.2008 at 01:46 pm    last updated on: 04.27.2008 at 01:46 pm

RE: OT: Has anyone actually sued their contractor?? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: lynninnewmexico on 04.11.2008 at 07:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

We sued our builder, who was a GC that built one or two totally custom homes at a time; he wasn't a big time subdivision builder. We tried for many years, fools that we were ~ to get him to fix the major problems in our house, but to no avail. He would always agree to start "as soon as the job I'm working on now finished up a bit" . . . and he'd never show up or return our phone calls.
This place is a high end home, even the doors were made and pieced together by hand. It's adobe inside and out; custom hand-built kiva fireplaces; hand-planed wood ceilings and corbels, etc. One hundred-plus year old, handmade bricks in our foyer's bovida ceiling. It's a beautiful home, but . . .
* the kitchen cabs were supposed to be ash (a hard wood), painted white. When all the doors started falling off the cabinets, we discovered that they were the cheapest, softest pine available. No one would even consider refacing them, as the pine was too soft to hold anything else up. The screws holding on the doors were constantly falling out, leaving big holes in the wood.
* the leach field for our home was put in and covered up while we were out of state on vacation. Leach fields are required by local building codes to be so many feet away from the walls of the home ( I can't remember the exact number, approx. 20'): so many feet below the surface and NOT in an area driven over by cars and trucks routinely. When ours failed very soon after we moved it, the company that dug it up found that it was built 5 FEET from the walls of our house; 2-3 INCHES below the surface and directly UNDER the driveway into our garage! The entire area had to be dug up and redone. It was a huge mess and a huge expense . . . that we had to pay for.
* In our big MBR's shower, the water pooled in the corner of our walk-in shower, creating a big mold problem. The entire thing had to be torn up, all the custom tile work was ruined in the process in order to lay down a floor that sloped down towards the center of the shower and the drain instead of into the far corner.
* There were a few other things, as well.
So, after six years of being the patient (stupid) nice guys, we hired an attorney. The guy was great, very honest and up front with us. It still took 3 1/2 years to get this case to trial. Our builder's insurance company tried every stall in the book, hoping we'd give up and go away . . . or run out of money! We actually overheard their own "expert witness" confide to the insurance rep (they were on the side of our house right after they'd done a walk thru inspection of all the problems), that the cabs were "pieces of crap", the entire shower needed "to be ripped out and totally redone" and "whoever put that first leach field in was an idiot!". You'd think that would have gotten us our money, pretty darn quick, right? Wrong! And, I have to add, all we were asking for was the money to have these things replaced or corrected, no other money for emotional damages or whatever.
But, this case continued to drag out for another year or so despite their own expert's opinions. They finally offered us a settlement the week before it was to go to trial. We were so sick of their slimy tactics, we took it, as our attny told us that they'd probably appeal any monetary decision and make us wait even longer for the settlement money. After our attorney's fees, we got about one third the amount it took to rip out and redo just our kitchen.
I've heard that this is the usual tactic that insurance companies take . . . drag your feet, run up their attorney's fees and wear them out.
Would I do it again? Yes! It put our builder out of business and made it pretty near impossible for him to build homes anymore. Too bad, because all in all, this is an awesome house. He had almost seven years to just show up and fix several problems and we would have gone away happy, but he didn't. Frankly, I'm glad he got what he deserved. I just wish we would have gotten enough money to pay for all the rest of the fixes we had to do.
If I ever (shudder!) have another house built, I'll do things a lot differently! I'll
* have our attorney look over everything . . . first
* I'll keep copious notes, dated and signed
* I'll inspect everything before I make any final payments
* I'll keep all receipts, all notes, all letters, all emails and all phone messages that might be of importance someday, to and from our builder/GC and all subs.
*I'll get everything in writing
* and, I'll vow to split at least one bottle of wine a day with my DH to decompress! I'll probably be an alcoholic by the time the house is finished, but I'll be a happy one with a good, totally completed house ;~P !!

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clipped on: 04.24.2008 at 04:07 pm    last updated on: 04.24.2008 at 04:08 pm

RE: Best dishwasher - opinions please! Dry plastic?? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: somonica on 04.17.2008 at 08:46 pm in Appliances Forum

Best dishwasher??

Just wait a while, and get this one install this Fall!! :)

Here is a link that might be useful: The new Miel G 2002 La Perla

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clipped on: 04.23.2008 at 04:54 pm    last updated on: 04.23.2008 at 04:54 pm

RE: How do I get started? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: igloochic on 03.28.2008 at 04:04 pm in Remodeling Forum

SR I have been doing pretty much what you're doing. So here's my process...

I put together a scope of the work (done by room as a word document). I then used a quicky home design program (BH&G Home Designer 7.0 I think) to do some rough drawings based on pretty accurate measurements I took on the house. I showed what walls would be moved, where they would go, blah blah.

I personally designed my kitchen and bathrooms (lots of moved electric and plumbing) but if your spaces for these rooms are defined (either as they are now or as they will be using a drawing program) you can have a KD or cabinet salesperson KD (who is likely to be free or cheap) work on those designs.

Using my drawings, I then started talking to GC's. I did have some major structural work being done, so we hired a structural engineer on the side for the calculations on that (just a few hundred bucks and a bottle of wine) but a good GC will have one that they work with as well. Then the GC had a structural engineer draw up the final plans from mine to be submitted to the muni for approval. My cost for him was under $1000. (He did measurements, etc).

I initially started with using an excel spreadsheet to do my drawings and those were enough for the final drawings, but I got so into it I purchased the higher end design program to play with. I just this week purchased a higher end program than that (Chief Architecht) which will do all of the calculations as well :)

I don't think you need to spend the money on an Architecht as long as you use a good GC who has the connections for the permit drawings. You're not doing anything more, and infact it's less given the major structural work that was done on mine. The plumbing and electric can all be permitted by the contractors in those areas. You're going to want to show where what goes...but your KD can do that as part of their work flow. (Ie lighting plans etc).

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clipped on: 04.22.2008 at 06:15 pm    last updated on: 04.22.2008 at 06:15 pm

RE: Interviewing Contractors (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: kristi on 04.06.2007 at 02:49 pm in Remodeling Forum

Painful as these meetings are, I would keep booking them with contractors until you have met three that you like and think you could work with. Then get bids from those three. An excellent book I recommend is "House Beautiful - Take Charge of Your Home Renovation: Everything You Need to Know for a Successful Home Renovation or Remodeling"
Hope this helps.

Here is a link that might be useful: Here's the book on Amazon

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clipped on: 04.22.2008 at 06:05 pm    last updated on: 04.22.2008 at 06:05 pm

RE: Adding yourself to the contractors insurance (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: igloochic on 06.29.2007 at 05:04 pm in Remodeling Forum

Our contractor is fabulous and we went through a very detailed insurance review with our agent, also State farm. We did verify his insurance, (which can also be done by asking for a certificate of insurance but is no guarantee if you read insurance laws in relation to this document) workers comp status and our needs for insurance. In our state, a certificate of insurance is NOT a standard practice on noncommercial jobs (with policies purchased specifically for them rather like a bonding procedure). We added insurance to our policy specifically to protect us during the construction processes for all of the contractors and sub's. Perhaps our state is different than all others but I doubt it.

If it's common in your area, than that's great, go for it, but I would also suggest you amend your personal policy during the period of construction. Read insurance law and you'll see that what you're suggesting is no guarantee you'll be personally protected if your contactor has a worker slip on the roof. A general policy even with you added as an additional insured is not enough insurance to cover you in a serious accident case. It's like putting a bandaid on a leg that's been cut off. Perhaps that's why in our state they suggest you amend YOUR insurance to cover liabilities verses playing with the contractor's insurance.

In large commercial jobs, the two parties involved (contractor and site owner) often take out insurance jointly. They then become subject to additional risks in some areas (as I mentioned above) but are protected better from the more common issues that arise. These policies are for multi million dollar contracts (we just signed one for a billion dollar project lasting over ten years). This is entirely different than having your roof replaced.

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clipped on: 04.22.2008 at 06:02 pm    last updated on: 04.22.2008 at 06:02 pm

Owner-Contractor Contracts

posted by: mightyanvil on 02.16.2008 at 10:31 am in Remodeling Forum

You will run into many different, and often contradictory, opinions about Owner-Contractor construction contracts; who should write them and the biases of the standardized forms from industry organizations.

Many of these opinions will be based on limited experience and familiarity with construction contract writing in general and standardized forms in particular, and will sometimes be based on the principle of "this is how we do it here".

For what it is worth, I don't recommend using contracts cobbled together by a general contractor even if a lawyer has reviewed it or even written it. I recommend that contracts be industry consensus-based, long-time court-tested, and widely used for best protection for all parties. You can modify these standard forms and have a lawyer review them, but you should try to avoid non-standard contract language and unnecessary negotiations.

The two best contract publishers are the AIA (American Institute of Architects) and the AGC (Associated General Contractors). It should be no surprise that the AIA forms are written from the perspective of architects and the AGC forms are written from the perspective of general contractors. Unfortunately, there are no consensus organizations or contract form publishers who represent owners so it is best to pick one of these forms and modify it as necessary.

The short versions of these forms are primarily intended for residential projects and should not be considered complicated nor should they be a cause of concern to either of the parties. They represent the minimum terms required to protect all parties to the contract. Special attention should be paid to the dispute resolution and contract termination clauses for possible modifications.

You can order the AIA Residential form #A105+A205 or the Limited Scope form #A107 at AIA

You can register and download a sample copy of the AGC short form #205 at AGC

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clipped on: 04.22.2008 at 04:26 pm    last updated on: 04.22.2008 at 04:26 pm

RE: Deciding Soon. What should I know when selecting a contractor (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: compumom on 07.04.2006 at 03:04 pm in Remodeling Forum

We are in the midst of our remodel/addition and I think I can speak to what we are doing. First of all get his contractor's license number and run a check to see if there are any complaints against him. With our kitchen remodel there was one but it was a store and they were very upfront about this lady and the nature of her complaint. I felt satisfied and hired them. They were FINE.
Next, you want proof of insurance- liability and worker's compensation. No need to put a lien on your house if someone is injured.
Absolutely get at least one reference and go and see the work as well as talk to the owner and see if they were satisfied.
Our payment schedule was $5000 for plans (applied to the remodel)
$10,000 in an escrow account after signing the contract
Another payment after demolition
Another payment after reinforcing the foundation and inspection was passed
Another payment after framing is completed etc.

In CA there is a law that the contractor can't charge more than 10% intially until work has begun. Progress payments are the way to go.(I think that is the amount--Fairegold on the kitchen forum will know)
In our kitchen we ordered the cabs and then paid maybe a third to begin, a third midway and a third upon completion.
Always withhold the final last payment until all work is done. I might even put in (I forgot to do it this time) a bonus payment if satisfactory completion ahead of schedule.

As to what the Square Footage covers- I don't know. I think outside (we're adding 290) to make a new bathroom and extend the closet. Our contract states 280 but the engineer felt he could go out further on the second story than planned so we were charged for 280 but are actually getting 290.

How long? We're off schedule. We were told about 3 months but with delays and some down time they aren't totally finished with framing and it's already 3 months! I'm peeved but they did encounter far more work than planned in reinforcing our garage (first story) to take the addtion. Also the City required more than he expected in the way of structural support for earthquake codes.

Out of time now, more later if I remember!
You can email me if you need more specifics. I'm not a pro at this, but I'm comfortable answering the questions you've asked.
E

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clipped on: 04.22.2008 at 04:16 pm    last updated on: 04.22.2008 at 04:17 pm

RE: budgets and contracts (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: mightyanvil on 02.09.2008 at 01:20 pm in Remodeling Forum

No one can (or should) try to answer your question without knowing the completeness of the design documents (full framing and spec?), the terms of the contract (allowances, mark-ups, work by others?), the site conditions (rock, ground water?), the climate, and in general, your ability to deal with frustration and disappointment.

Never build without a contingency. And if you can't accept the possibility that it might be spent then it isn't really a contingency.

I would recommend a contingency of 15% and reduce it if the variables and risks are less than normal.

If you have an architect, why is the contractor submitting a contract? It should have been given to him as part of the bid package. You are already accepting a risk if you are allowing the contractor run the project.

And if you have an architect, why would that not be the best person to ask this question?

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clipped on: 04.22.2008 at 03:52 pm    last updated on: 04.22.2008 at 03:52 pm

Warning if you are using a Home Equity Line of Credit

posted by: jen4268 on 04.15.2008 at 04:53 pm in Remodeling Forum

Hi-

I posted this on the Home Finance group, but thought that many renovators might be using a Home Equity Line of Credit to finance their current project like we were and would benefit from our experience this week-

We started a major home renovation project in Feb., and have been getting most of my great information from this site. I just felt like I had to share what happened to me this week, so that it might help someone else in my same situation.

We are very fiscally responsible people, and other than our mortgage we do not borrow money. After weighing all of our options, we decided to do a major renovation on our existing home rather than to move, and we plan to stay in our home for at least 10 years. After careful consideration, we decided to tap our Home Equity Line of Credit, which we have had on our home for over 5 years in order to pay for the project. We used it before on another project and paid it off two years ago with no issues.

We are now about 40% through our project, everything going fine. However, yesterday we got a letter from our bank telling us that they had FROZEN our home equity loan until we prove the current home value. This is not based on any specific information that homes in our area have decreased in price (they have not), but they "might" have so we have to get a new appraisal.

The issue is that we are in a catch 22- I have no doubt that when completed, our home will appraise high enough to qualify for the line of credit we have with them. The issue is that we are mid-project, and half of our home is down to the studs! That includes the kitchen and family room and bathrooms. We have the appraiser coming out tomorrow to see if he can still try to do a decent appraisal in it's current condition. In the meantime we have bills coming in from our contractor and we have to figure out a way to pay them.

If any of you are using your Home Equity Line of Credit to fund your project, please consider withdrawing the entire amount that you need for your project and putting into a savings account. That way you know it will be there- from what I understand that many banks are doing this (not just ours), and they do not care if you have great credit and have been a good customer.

I have done some research online and now I see that some financial people have been warning about this for a few months, but I was not aware of how bad it had gotten. I had to learn the hard way :).

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RE: Challenge: anyone w/ induction exp who'd go back to gas? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: sshrivastava on 01.02.2007 at 12:58 pm in Appliances Forum

I do miss the heavy grates on gas stoves -- pots stay firmly in place, while they tend to slide around on the smooth glass induction surface. I also miss the fact that gas heats the sides of your sautee pans -- induction does not do this, as there is no residual heat rising up the sides. I also miss the sounds associated with gas cooking, and you'll never be able to flambee on induction without a match or lighter. I used to quick heat tortillas and chapatis on my gas burners, which I can't do with induction.

While induction is a great technology, it's not "better" than gas simply because different cooks have different requirements. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. We don't have gas service to our home, so our hands were tied to either induction or the regular infrared ceramic cook tops. However, if we had gas service, I would have definitely gone with a gas cooktop and eschewed an electric stove of any kind.

Not sure if that helps, but I don't think induction will replace gas. I think it's a great option for all electric kitchens, but gas cooking definitely has its place.

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clipped on: 04.16.2008 at 09:10 pm    last updated on: 04.16.2008 at 09:12 pm

RE: oversized pans on induction (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: morton5 on 04.15.2008 at 11:13 pm in Appliances Forum

What about spanning 2 hobs with say a griddle or roasting pan? Seems like this may be a problem for any model that can't handle a larger round pan. I see that the 30" LG has a nifty induction bridge, but I was interested in a 5 burner model. Anybody know if the 36" Bosch can handle larger pans? If so, its 2 7" burners are configured nicely to span with a rectangular pan.

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clipped on: 04.16.2008 at 09:29 am    last updated on: 04.16.2008 at 09:29 am

RE: DH says I don't need a warming drawer.... (Follow-Up #59)

posted by: fivstar on 04.13.2008 at 05:54 pm in Appliances Forum

I don't have a warming drawer, but am planning on one in our new home. I want it for proofing bread, making yogurt, keeping foods warm till serving time, warming plates, I'm looking at the DCS because it seems to be the deepest and should be able to hold my crock while proofing bread dough. If the temp goes high enough, I think it could also hold my canning jars while waiting to be filled. So I'm sure I'd be using it several times daily.

Currently I use my Excalibur dehydrator for a good deal of defrosting of frozen foods; and I also use it for quickly drying my blender container, my olive oil jar, and plastic tupperwares. But I think the warming drawer might function almost as well and would hold a lot more.

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clipped on: 04.14.2008 at 12:02 pm    last updated on: 04.14.2008 at 12:02 pm

RE: induction power question. (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: amirm on 04.13.2008 at 05:13 pm in Appliances Forum

Here is a bit of tutorial.

First, do not pay as much attention to total power requirement. Instead, look at the power of the largest most powerful hob. I suggest finding something that is around 3,500 watts or better. Unfortunately, I find the stats at the induction site incorrect in some cases so you may have to contact the manufacturer to get the correct data.

The total power requirement has to do with all the hobs running together. But there is a bit of complexity in that some (most) of the units cannot handle the full power. So they allow combination of hobs being on until the max is reached at which point, you lose power as you turn things on.

Fortunately, I supsect few of us will ever attempt to use all the hobs at once so the max power consumption of the unit is of little consequence in my opinion.

Now a bit of math :): Watts = voltage x current.

The watts you already know like the 3,500 watts above (same as 3.5 Kw with "k" meaning kilo or 1000). Voltage is 240. So a 3,500 watt hob uses 3500/24 = 14.5 amps (unit of current). Induction units are about 90% efficient so you have to multiple this number by 1.1 to get its full power consumption, arriving at 16 amps.

Put another way, that single 3,500 watt hob uses 16 amps. If your unit is rates at 40 amps, you can have 2 units of that power and one of lower power. Or some other combination like that.

The noted comment I think talks about the fact that a 40 amp circuit may exist in a home from another electric cooktop that might have already been there. But to the extent you are rewiring your kitchen, it is not consequential that one unit uses 40 amps vs 50 amps (in grand scheme of things).

Hope this makes things more clear. If not, go ahead and ask.

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clipped on: 04.14.2008 at 09:56 am    last updated on: 04.14.2008 at 09:56 am

RE: oversized pans on induction (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: petlady1 on 04.13.2008 at 02:28 pm in Appliances Forum

Thanks to all who responded. My 3.5 qt. All-Clad Sauteuse measures 12" at the bottom. I use it a lot. I often simultaneously use a large pot for pasta. It would be a major bummer to buy a unit only to find my cooking style would have to majorly revised.

I originally was considering the Electrolux because it has two "large" (10") hobs, where most of the 36" units have only one. I had to drop it from consideration because of the maximum pan size restrictions.

Unfortunately, I live in RI, and the one appliance dealer who actually had an induction unit (Wolfe) installed and "live" discovered when I visited that they did not even have a pan in the entire showroom which was magnetic! They had to send a staff member to the market across the street with my magnet to buy a pan that would work. My visit was the first time they'd even tried to use it, and it had been installed for months. Not a lot of help from them...

I am now waiting for official word from a Wolfe distributor in MA. We went up there yesterday and successfully and quickly boiled water in a 12" pan on a 6" hob. Of course, I understand the restrictions in terms of overlapping pan parts being heated only by conduction, since they're not over the induction element.

We have no natural gas available at our home and are trying to avoid the propane thing.

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clipped on: 04.14.2008 at 09:49 am    last updated on: 04.14.2008 at 09:49 am

RE: GE Profile Induction -- First Impressions (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: boxiebabe on 02.10.2008 at 09:49 pm in Appliances Forum

Just a note on Home Depot and purchasing GE Profile appliances: I am currently getting ready to order my appliances. HD says they will MATCH internet pricing. So if you find it cheaper on the internet (I suggest using www.Epinions.com - they'll list a half dozen or so dealers pricing) - print it out, bring it to your local HD store, and they'll match. I was lucky enough to find a web site that was not only loads cheaper than HD, but offered FREE shipping. (http://oneclickappliances.com/store/). Home Depot says that they'll match. PLUS - no $59.00 delivery fee from HD. I like the idea of not having to order from some unknown on the internet - and ordering it from my KD at the local Home Depot. I haven't actually placed the order yet - so it remains to be seen, but thought I would post this info in case anyone else could use this info.

Here is a link that might be useful: Where I found cheap appliances

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clipped on: 04.10.2008 at 12:49 pm    last updated on: 04.10.2008 at 12:49 pm

RE: Latest News/Experiences re Induction Cooktops (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: lagoon_lisa on 11.11.2007 at 02:19 pm in Appliances Forum

Because of this board I bought a DeDetrich 5 burner and I couldn't be happier. I had to add a whole 60 amp circuit to my kitchen, but I've had the cooktop about 15 months and I love it. It has a sleek, shallow rim of stainless, which is very unobtrusive and looks great on my flamed black granite countertops (modern and Japanese kitchen, very minimal).

I would never have found DeDetrich without you guys, or probably even have seriously considered induction, so thanks. When we remodeled I put in a gas line in the island just in case I regretted the induction decision, but fortunately I won't be needng it.

I always do water-boiling demos for my fascinated friends at dinner parties. Puts a new spin on 'a watched pot never boils'.

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clipped on: 04.10.2008 at 12:11 pm    last updated on: 04.10.2008 at 12:11 pm

RE: Induction and Gas (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: liameknuj on 03.12.2008 at 10:27 pm in Appliances Forum

The induction hob (De Dietrich DTI706X) and the gas wok burner (Miele KM406) have a very similar appearance; both have a black glass surface with metal border. They go well together.

We wanted induction for speed, cleaning, summer cooking, timers and safety. We wanted gas for ambiance, certain cookware, analog control and power outages. The induction is all that is necessary; the gas is for fun.

Most daily cooking will likely be on the induction cooktop; its quick and easy. We don't use more than three burners typically, and consequently went with the 3/1 induction and gas arrangement. As an added benefit, the setup provides plenty of room for larger pots. If we ever need another burner, which I highly doubt, then we will put a portable induction unit, from our temporary kitchen, on the countertop (Sunpentown SR-1881S).

We also didn't want a huge oven that took too long to preheat. Under the cooktops, which are close together, we installed a Gaggenau 27 inch single oven (EB290610). Its actually as large as the oven in our previous range. I like that it has knobs and is easy to reach into. Perhaps the rotisserie will be useful as well.

That's some of our saga --- spend money on kitchen appliances drive old Subaru into the ground. ;)

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clipped on: 04.10.2008 at 11:56 am    last updated on: 04.10.2008 at 11:56 am

RE: Induction AND Gas? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: gizmonike on 03.12.2008 at 01:02 am in Appliances Forum

Our induction burner boils a full pasta pot of water in under 7 minutes. Our large DCS natural gas burners are rated at 17,500 BTUs, and take at least 17 minutes on full high to boil the same pot of water. The induction cooktop's performance is considerably better than 12,000 or even 17,500 BTUs. We've been using our appliances for a year.

I looked at all the integrated modules from Wolf, Gaggenau, & Miele. Wolf had the least powerful ones.

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clipped on: 04.10.2008 at 11:17 am    last updated on: 04.10.2008 at 11:55 am

RE: Induction AND Gas? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: cpovey on 03.11.2008 at 10:32 pm in Appliances Forum

With the exception of putting away a lifelong collection of copper cookware. I just don't see the benefits of a gas cooktop anymore. Or a gas oven for that matter.

Lots of advantages to gas.

First, reliability. Gas ranges are very simple and long lasting-there are lots of 1920's gas ranges around still working and being refurbed. Resistance electric is more complex than gas, and induction, because it uses digital electronics, is the least reliable of all.

Second, reliability. Gas service is traditionally the most reliable source of energy. It may not matter to you, but in my neighborhood, I am the only one who will have hot showers and hot food if a hurricane hits (I live in Florida), because I installed a gas range and hot water heater.

Third: reliability. The cast iron grids on a gas range are a whole lot less fragile than the glass ceramic of an induction cooktop. Drop a full can of food on one and see what happens.

Fourth: Fun. I have both gas and induction in my house. Gas is, simply put, more enjoyable to use than induction. Now, induction has lots of advantages, but adjusting that gas flame is much more 'real' and tangible, and just plain fun. than is adjusting a digital readout for induction.

Fifth. Digital thermometers. I generally use digital thermometers to measure cooking temps. The induction screws them up, so they are unusable.
*******************

As to induction and gas, yes, I have both. Induction is a lot faster at boiling water. But induction can be a bear fir simmering, because the power is output in discrete digital steps. The sauce you are trying to simmer may be too cool at step 3, but boiling at step 4. With some newer induction cooktops, like the CookTek Apogee, there are enough steps (100), so this problem is essentially eliminated.

As to looks, my CookTek essentially disappears into the dark emerald green countertop material.

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clipped on: 04.10.2008 at 11:13 am    last updated on: 04.10.2008 at 11:13 am

RE: Gas vs Induction (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: cpovey on 02.20.2008 at 12:15 am in Appliances Forum

I want to heat my food not the air. 90% eff to 45-50%.

Hold on, it's not as clear cut as this. Yes, induction is roughly 90% efficient. But, because it uses electricity, you have to compensate for the electricity that is lost in making and moving that electricity from the power plant to your home. Roughly 1/3 of the energy produced is lost before it gets to the appliance. So this brings induction down to about 60% efficient. Induction is also not as efficient with some pots, resulting in more loss. Thus, in the big picture, induction is only a little more efficient than gas.

As to operating costs, don't sweat it, unless you are comparing to a traditional Aga! Cooking uses something like about 2-5% of the total energy use in a house.

Now, on the original question, I have both in my kitchen. Induction (at least a powerful hob) is faster than a gas range. Both provide instantaneous response. However, induction is not as much fun to use as gas. I believe it is something in our makeup that make adjusting a flame more intuitive and enjoyable than adjusting a digital display from 20 to 4 to maintain a boil. Induction is generally not 100% continuous in temperature adjustments-it moves in steps, and occasionally you want a temp between 3 and 4. Some newer tops offer more levels than older units, eliminating this problem.

Gas is likely to be more reliable in the long run than induction-it's a lot simpler and a mature technology. Induction cooktops, made of a glass-like material, can shatter if heavy things are dropped on them. Never store cans of food or similar things above an induction top. Induction is probably safer than gas, but can lead to a false sense of security. If you have asthma, gas is not recommended.

Both have advantages and disadvantages.

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clipped on: 04.10.2008 at 09:51 am    last updated on: 04.10.2008 at 09:52 am

RE: Gas vs Induction (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: aliceinwonderland_id on 02.19.2008 at 01:22 pm in Appliances Forum

I see no down side with induction. I used to really love gas, but hadn't cooked on it for years. Then, a couple of week ago I was helping a friend get ready for a party. I had completely forgotten how HOT it gets standing in front of a gas cook top. My induction is faster to adjust than gas and more powerful. It took forever to boil water with gas - induction is so fast.

I can't really tell you about cost to operate. There are so many factors, and I have no real way to break it down for you. You would have to look at gas and electric costs in your area. Really, cooking is a pretty minor portion of your energy usage, so I'm not sure you would see a difference one way or the other.

Cost: 30" Brandt from New Zealand was $1900. You can also get De Dietrich in the U.S. now for reasonable prices, the Kenmore is below $2000 as well.

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clipped on: 04.10.2008 at 09:45 am    last updated on: 04.10.2008 at 09:45 am

RE: talk to me about laminate -- major budget-induced rollback (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: sherilynn on 02.20.2008 at 07:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

I've seen a lot of wonderful new homes with laminate tops that look like granite. In my opinion, the laminate with beveled edges and slight texture to the top look the most like granite. I've seen both 'plain' looking and the granite wannabe laminates and have found myself fooled from a distance. With the beveled edge, or pencil edge, it has more distinction and believability to be 'real' Vs bull nose on two sides and straight edge on the end counter. I hope this makes sense.

Bevel Edge Laminate Company

How to do a beveled edge laminate counter top

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clipped on: 04.09.2008 at 03:23 pm    last updated on: 04.09.2008 at 03:24 pm

RE: Solid Surface counters?? (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: iamnodiy on 03.03.2008 at 12:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks Jkom51. That explains why we have to keep adjusting the cooking time for old recipes in the new crock pot. Also,if you have solid surface avoid placing hot objects directly on the invisable seam. This is the area where cracks and buckling are more likely to happen. Our fabricator informed us where the seam was placed so we never use an appliance in that area even with a trivet. Just remember that all work surfaces have pros and cons. What works for some will not work for others. Select the one that fits your lifestyle and your way of cooking. Don't be influenced by trends or peer pressure.

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clipped on: 04.09.2008 at 02:13 pm    last updated on: 04.09.2008 at 02:13 pm

RE: Solid Surface counters?? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: kompy on 03.02.2008 at 11:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

effie, If you have 'acrylic solid surface', such as Corian or Hi-Macs...etc...you should never use a crock pot directly on your countertops. Put a cutting board underneath it. And anything else that puts out a long term heat. I would probably even put a board under a electric pan or waffle iron, just to be safe.

Two days ago, I met a countertop repair specialist (I'm a KD, BTW). He gave me his card and we chatted for about 10 minutes. He told me that crock pots are the worst for Corian-type products.

Not sure about boiling water over ice, but I have heard that hot/cold situations can create thermal shock and result in a crack.

And yes, I've heard that pans leave marks on corian-type sinks as well. But they shouldn't be difficult to remove.

-----------------------------------------
I don't think most people buy granite so they can set hot pans on their tops. But accidents happen....especially those with kids or the visiting relatives. ;-) Having a top that's heat resistant is a good thing.

Kompy

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clipped on: 04.09.2008 at 02:10 pm    last updated on: 04.09.2008 at 02:10 pm

RE: Solid Surface counters?? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: jkom51 on 02.29.2008 at 06:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have Swanstone, which is slightly more heat-resistant than Corian. Swanstone is heat-resistant to 375 degrees. Seams on ANY type of counter are heat-vulnerable, because the glues aren't terribly heat-resistant. The danger on solid surface is that the seams are invisible, so you need to remember where they are located!

I just use common sense when putting stuff down. Hot pan lids aren't usually a problem. Small pots I've been simmering aren't either. If I have any doubts I let them cool a bit on the stove, then move them over to the counters by the sink for cleaning. Have had the Swanstone since 2003 with no problems. I love this stuff! And it's wonderful for baking - seems to work beautifully for rolling out dough, and cleans up SO easily. The scraper gets up everything, and I don't have to worry about etching or staining from ingredients or cleaners.

Big heavy pans full of contents hotter than 375 - trivet time!

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clipped on: 04.09.2008 at 02:06 pm    last updated on: 04.09.2008 at 02:06 pm

RE: counter top height advice (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: flseadog on 04.09.2008 at 10:29 am in Kitchens Forum

I'm 5'5" and my old kitchen had 38" high countertops and that's what I'm doing in the new one. Countertops have been getting higher in kitchens,according to 3 kitchen, designers I've talked to, because people are taller than when the old 36" standard height was set. When I work in someone else's kitchen with lower counters than mine I get lower back aches in a hurry. Maybe just because I'm getting older but I think you should do the height for comfort and it won't look odd.

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clipped on: 04.09.2008 at 01:37 pm    last updated on: 04.09.2008 at 01:37 pm

RE: 27' double oven (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: cheri127 on 02.29.2008 at 08:44 am in Appliances Forum

There are Gaggenau double wall ovens listed on ebay right now for $2250. It's a steal. I bought a combi steam oven from the same dealer and it arrived new and perfect. These are discontinued models. I called Gaggenau and they told me that as long as the ovens are installed professionally and you keep you receipt of installation, the warranty is valid. I'd have bought the double ovens too but I don't have room for them.

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clipped on: 04.09.2008 at 12:25 pm    last updated on: 04.09.2008 at 12:25 pm

RE: Rangetop and Wall Oven Selection (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: akchicago on 03.14.2008 at 12:27 pm in Appliances Forum

Just about the sealed burner cleaning question - I have sealed gas burners. I regret not getting the unsealed open burners. I have a permanent ring around each burner of stains that I can't get out. It's probably 1/16-1/8 of an inch, but it's unsightly, and evidently permanent. If I had an open burner, nothing would have gotten caught there and become permanent. I also understand that the open burners are better for cooking, cause the oxygen flow under the burners from the open design enhances the flame and the flame pattern. I don't have personal experience with that, but I KNOW that I don't like my sealed burners, and for my next kitchen (likely years from now) I will get open burners.

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clipped on: 04.09.2008 at 11:16 am    last updated on: 04.09.2008 at 11:17 am

RE: Help. Double or single wall oven/How often do you use 2 ovens (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: daven on 03.25.2008 at 06:35 am in Appliances Forum

An update. We purchased a Fisher and Paykel double oven for $2600 delivered from an authorized dealer over Ebay of all places. I checked the wiring to our old oven and I was amazed to discover that although it was a 30 amp breaker they had used 8 gauge wire. I installed a 40 amp breaker and we were good to go.

As mentioned in this thread, when you have the option of two dishes that require different temps. and oven modes to prepare you use what you have. Our menus have expanded since we installed the double oven. We purchased a countertop microwave in stainless to match the ovens.

So far the biggest difference is that the FP oven is far superior compared to the Jennair that we had. I never thought that an oven would make such a difference. The same recipes taste so much better. Even a simple dish like roasted new potatoes with rosemary have a creamier texture while still remaining crisp.

Based on my experience I would not hesitate recommending a double oven if you can accommodate them n your kitchen. Thanks for the advice offered....

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clipped on: 04.08.2008 at 05:18 pm    last updated on: 04.08.2008 at 05:18 pm

RE: Help. Double or single wall oven/How often do you use 2 ovens (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: cpovey on 02.05.2008 at 04:54 pm in Appliances Forum

If you figure the second oven is an occasional need, consider what I did. I have a single oven, plus I have a portable 120 volt convection oven that I can put in the kitchen when I need a second oven, or take out for space. Several are available (Toastmaster, DeLonghi, etc.) and they are generally under $200 or so. these are not toaster-ovens, but real convection ovens, just on the small side.

Since it is portable (say 10-12 pounds), it stores easily out of the way, plus you can also take it to parties, on the road, etc.

The link below shows one example.

Here is a link that might be useful: Convection oven

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clipped on: 04.08.2008 at 05:15 pm    last updated on: 04.08.2008 at 05:15 pm