Clippings by susan4952

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RE: Anyone grow Dream Come True (grandiflora)? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: karl_bapst_rosenut on 12.03.2008 at 10:45 pm in Roses Forum

"Would you say that roses that win the AARS are in general good performers or is it an overrated distinction?"

Not really.
I've had some great AARS roses and some stinkers.
Although AARS test gardens are scattered through the country and in all growing zones, I've seldom found one that performs well in all zones. They seem to be better suited for warmer and temperate growing areas, not so much for zones 5 or less.
I don't buy a rose based on a AARS rating. I wait a year or so to see how well it does in the average rose growers garden where it may be subject to some neglect.
If it still gets raves, it may be a winner then.
As with the J&P Rose of the Year and other J&P award roses, I believe the AARS award is a selling tool to sell lots of roses to unsuspecting buyers. Every year hundreds of thousands of AARS award roses are sold based only on the fact they got the award. I've read too many bad reports on them over the years to get real excited over them. Another way to tell if they are good is how long they stay in commerce. How many of those given that award in the past 5 or more years are still around?

Mardi Gras
Dream Come True
Rainbow Knock Out
Strike It Rich
Wild Blue Yonder
Julia Child
Tahitian Sunset
Rainbow Sorbet
About Face
Lady Elsie May
Honey Perfume
Memorial Day
Day Breaker
Hot Cocoa
Cherry Parfait
Starry Night
Love & Peace
Marmalade Skies
Glowing Peace
Sun Sprinkles
Knock Out
Crimson Bouquet
Gemini Coral
Betty Boop
Fourth of July
Sunset Celebration
First Light
Opening Night
Carefree Delight
St. Patrick
Mt. Hood
Brass Band
Singin' in the Rain
Midas Touch
Sweet Inspiration
Child's Play
Rio Samba
All That Jazz
Pride 'n' Joy
Shining Hour
Sheer Elegance
Perfect Moment
Carefree Wonder


clipped on: 12.04.2008 at 08:43 am    last updated on: 12.04.2008 at 08:43 am

Please share your expereince with these white roses

posted by: dana5a on 10.17.2008 at 12:50 pm in Roses Forum

Please share your expereince with the following white roses in regards to hardiness,disease resistance and fragrance.
Prairie star,Queen Mary II,J.F.K,Ice girl,Jardins de bagaitelle,Penny lane(tried the last two as own roots and lost them to winter)and white lighting .
Thanks for checking the post.


clipped on: 10.19.2008 at 08:54 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2008 at 08:55 pm

Most fragrant and showy roses for zone 5b/6a

posted by: ranjana on 10.06.2006 at 09:01 am in Roses Forum

Hi all the rose experts out there!
Which roses are most FRAGRANT and showy too? They should also be hardy in my zone 5b/6a.
Thanks in advance


clipped on: 03.19.2007 at 07:29 pm    last updated on: 03.19.2007 at 07:29 pm

the most incredibly FRAGRANT rose that takes your breath away

posted by: laurafromtx on 06.03.2005 at 05:42 pm in Roses Forum

(a 'piggybacking' variation on Rob_in_VA's post about incredibly beautiful roses)....

I keep watching to see if Molineux(Patrick) has posted his famous list, but I haven't seen it lately, and now that my roses have finally started blooming, I want to compare what I think I smell with everyone else's experience. So far, Mr. Lincoln is tied with Fragrant Cloud as my favorite fragrance (one cut bloom fills the air for days), with Lemon Spice, Oklahoma, Double Delight and Full Sail right behind. I have baby (bands) Alec's Red, Jude the Obscure and Velvet Fragrance that will be another year before they're big enough to start stinking up the place.

I've got my 'Want List' spreadsheet started with Chrysler Imperial heading the list, but would like to add to it.

So, what is your best 'can't live without it, no holds barred' fragrant rose?

Thank you, Laura


clipped on: 03.19.2007 at 07:25 pm    last updated on: 03.19.2007 at 07:25 pm

RE: Roses that grow well in Chicago area???? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: elks on 03.15.2007 at 03:08 pm in Roses Forum

We live due east of you between Lakes Huron and Erie. Perhaps the survey may be of use to you.

Here is a link that might be useful: Rose Survey 2005


clipped on: 03.17.2007 at 11:14 am    last updated on: 03.17.2007 at 11:14 am

Roses that grow well in Chicago area????

posted by: immy on 03.11.2007 at 06:04 pm in Roses Forum

Hi,I would like to know few hybrid tea roses which grow well and survive the winter in the chicago area. I am not sure which zone Chicago is in. Please help....


clipped on: 03.17.2007 at 11:07 am    last updated on: 03.17.2007 at 11:07 am

Thoughts on a Flexible Program for Blackspot Control

posted by: mike_rivers on 07.09.2006 at 12:37 pm in Roses Forum

For most of the years that Ive grown roses, the word on blackspot control was that fungicides must be sprayed preventatively. The idea was that the bs fungus dwells inside the leaf where it is invulnerable to attack and, once established, an infection is free to pump out countless numbers of spores. It is now known that the original assumption is false and that several modern fungicides, most notably tebuconazole, efficiently destroy an established infection of bs. Armed with this information, perhaps it is possible to design a more efficient and flexible approach to bs control.

Suppose that at some point in the season you spray your garden with both tebuconazole and an efficient and instantaneous sporacide and suppose you manage to kill all established infections and all spores. What would happen? Well, any new infection would have to come from spores traveling in from outside your garden. Exactly how bs spores manage to travel is still an open question but nearly everyone agrees that they have exceptionally poor mobility. In bs Hades, you might see a new infection in 3 weeks or so (tebuconazole is supposed to remain effective for 2 weeks and it takes about 1 week for a new infection to become established and visible). In bs Purgatory, where I live, I suspect you might not see a new infection for a month or more. In many cases, I suspect only a few bushes would be infected and then only on a few leaves. You would then have the option of spraying your entire garden with the combo spray, or you might choose to spray only the infected plant and perhaps its immediate neighbors, or you might simply choose to wait until the infection becomes objectionable and then spray. The point is that you would have flexibility and, in gardens like mine, you might have to spray only a few times in an entire season.

One key to success with this plan lies in identifying an "efficient and instantaneous" sporacide. Tebuconazole, itself, kills spores, but I suspect only during the act of germination. Rosemania describes Mancozeb as a spore killer, but I have seen no evidence that it operates efficiently and instantaneously or at any point prior to germination. The thing is, you don't want to kill spores one at a time as they germinate, the law of averages will get you. You want to wipe them all out at once. There are lots of things that do kill spores on contact. Horticultural oils, sulfite solutions and lime/sulfur probably do so, but I think the really efficient all-around sporacides are the things we use to disinfect pruners, things like hydrogen peroxide, bleach or alkylammonium salts (the stuff thats in Lysol household disinfectants). I wouldnt want to spray bleach, maybe I might spray hydrogen peroxide in dilute form (ZeroTol is a commercial hydrogen peroxide-based fungicide) but I think the Lysol stuff sounds most appealing (Consan Triple Action 20 or Physan 20 are commercial sources labeled for roses).

A side question: If these things can wipe out all the spores in your garden, why don't people use them now? It's because they have almost no residual effect and because they don't kill established infections. Under the old assumptions for bs control, it was pointless to wipe out all the spores in your garden in one instant if the established infections could pump out billions of new spores in the next instant.

Returning to reality for a moment, it's actually hard to test a bs program to see how well it's working. I suspect, at best, that in bs Hades, all you might really accomplish is replacing Mancozeb with ZeroTol or with Consan. Even that might have some advantages in cost and safety. Mancozeb is a suspected carcinogen while ZeroTol and Consan are not. ZeroTol is probably eligible for organic certification and the ingredients in Consan are used in household cleansers - at about ten times the concentration used for roses.


clipped on: 11.25.2006 at 01:57 pm    last updated on: 11.25.2006 at 01:57 pm

Kordes roses important info.

posted by: lynnette on 09.05.2006 at 10:23 pm in Roses Forum

Palatine Roses can now ship into the States. They carry many of the disease free roses from Kordes in Germany as well as many others from this breeder. Let's watch Jim jump up and down! If you need any help re descriptions, size etc I can answer your questions for you. I am uploading their newest 2006 fall roses on HelpMeFind but some don't have any photos. They will also be carrying some of the rarer old roses as they have connections in Europe to get them. Now lets watch Lynnette jump up and down!


clipped on: 11.06.2006 at 04:19 pm    last updated on: 11.06.2006 at 04:19 pm

RE: Favorite rose planted this year (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: the_dark_lady on 10.23.2006 at 07:08 pm in Roses Forum

I planted lots of new roses this year and liked a few of them a lot:
1. Jubilee Celebration (D.Austin) - have three bushes, all three were top performers from the get go. Bloomed all season long, blooms are awesome water-lily shaped, nicely colored and wonderfully scented.

2. Prairie Star (by Dr.Griffith Buck) - stunning hybrid tea bloom form on a very healthy bush, divine fragrance!

3. Rose de Rescht - bougth at Walmart as a 'body bag' - turned out to be a top performer in my garden, very nice full bush and lots a lots of blooms

4. Wedding Cake - a beautiful novelty from The Uncommon Rose

5. Another 'newer' D.Austin rose - Wisley - profusion of blooms and very good bush form

6. Phantom of the Opera - stunning bright red single - just take a look

7. Sandra Renaissance - a HT (?) from Poulsen, I love the bloom form, the color and the compact growth habit

8. Moore's Striped Rugosa - a Hybrid Rugosa from Ralph Moore - unusual striped blooms on a Rugosa

9. Old Port - a prodidy of Stephen's Big Purple

10. Cafe - an older Kordes rose but very 'modern' color-wise and 'old-fashioned' bloom form

11. Basye's Purple Rose

12. Acropolis - an unusual rose from Meilland

13. Well Being - a beauty from Harkness

14. Janice Kellogg - a dark red beauty from Meilland

15. Clementina Carbonieri - bought at Ashdown Roses in September this year

16. A Floribunda (by Gene Boerner) - Chic

And, the last but not least...

17. An unidentified rose I rescued this past spring (I believe some kind of antique rose)


clipped on: 10.23.2006 at 08:16 pm    last updated on: 10.23.2006 at 08:16 pm

RE: Will Black Spot Ever Leave? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: mike_rivers on 10.11.2006 at 07:23 pm in Roses Forum

Jbexperience, there are modern fungicides which can kill blackspot spores and there are modern fungicides which can kill established infections in the leaves (this won't, however, eliminate the black leaf spots, only new leaf growth can rid your plant of the spots). Probably the single most effective fungicides are those that prevent development or germination of the spores, which the mature fungus can generate by the millions. Examples are the Bayer product containing the fungicide, tebuconazole, and fungicides which contain the ingredient, propiconazole. Both of these are far more effective than the older lime/sulfur sprays, which still serve limited - and perhaps dubvious - duty as a dormant season spray. If you live in an area where blackspot thrives and you grow susceptible roses, a weekly or biweekly spray program is the only way I know to keep blackspot under control. In my opinion, removing infected leaves or fussing about your watering technique is of limited value in controlling blackspot.


clipped on: 10.12.2006 at 12:30 pm    last updated on: 10.12.2006 at 12:30 pm

RE: Bad Advice from Grandma? Climbing Roses... (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: olga_6b on 10.06.2006 at 09:06 pm in Roses Forum

I think you are right questining your Grandma's advise. It is not a right time to prune climbers especially in your zone. Usually climbers if they are very young can be left unpruned. When they become a little older they can be pruned in spring. If it is a onceblooming climber you can prune it after spring flush or early in spring when forsythia blooms. If it repeats it blooms during summer then it is better to prune during forsythia time. In both cases you don't prune it hard.
Get as many long canes as possible into a horizontal position by tying over onto a fence, wire, trellis or stake.
Cut out any weak or diseased shoots, and if you have your long, horizontal canes selected, cut out any branching canes or canes that are sprouting in the wrong direction.

Any branches (called laterals) coming out of these main horizontal canes, trim back to 2 - 5 inches or three buds, depending on the rose. Trimming the laterals creates spurs, each of which will bloom. If you were to let the laterals grow, they would shoot skyward and you'd get only flowers at the tips.
This is all for your future reference.
Because you already pruned your climbers just let them be. Wait thill spring, there is a good chance you will not get any flowers in spring due to your pruning. Just be patient, the new long canes will grow from the base and eventially bloom. If it is a onceblooming climber you will most probably not have any blooms next year. However if it is a reapeat blooming climber you most probably will see some blooms later next summer.


clipped on: 10.07.2006 at 11:57 am    last updated on: 10.07.2006 at 11:59 am

RE: when to apply Fall mulch? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: sdrone on 08.28.2006 at 02:47 pm in Roses Forum

HEre's a link on winterizing roses from

It says after the first hard frost.

Here is a link that might be useful: Winterizing Roses


clipped on: 08.28.2006 at 06:02 pm    last updated on: 08.28.2006 at 06:02 pm