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RE: Tomato Question (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: pauln on 10.24.2013 at 10:58 am in Ozarks Region Forum

I grew Mortgage Lifters this year, and it was the perfect tomato - huge, juicy, deep flavor. They are not the most prolific (most large tomatoes aren't with the exception of Amana Orange). I've grown Arkansas Travelers, and they do OK, but they're not my favorites. They do hold up pretty well after picking though.

I'm in a community garden, and have grown heirlooms in the same plot for the past two summers. Heirlooms are notorious about being suseptable to diseases, and they were much worse this year. I may have to grow hybrids for the next year or two in hopes that the diseases die out in the soil.


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clipped on: 10.24.2013 at 11:10 am    last updated on: 10.24.2013 at 11:10 am

do you know your weeds

posted by: helenh on 10.03.2013 at 06:34 pm in Ozarks Region Forum

This has several pictures of each weed. They are divided into broadleaf and grasses and also by where they are found.

Here is a link that might be useful: weed pictures

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clipped on: 10.04.2013 at 09:40 am    last updated on: 10.04.2013 at 09:40 am

RE: Bug Juice (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: stephe7 on 06.28.2009 at 08:50 am in Organic Gardening Forum

This is the orginal recipe from Dr Steve.

This is what you need in order to make Bug Juice�.

One 5 gallon bucket.
Corn starch
Bread yeast
MaxGro� our fishmeal product, or another source of protein. Blood meal will work.
Ripe fruit, such as plums, apples, apricots, peaches, watermelons, peeled bananas or whatever. No citrus.

The Bug Juice� Formula

Fruit: The fruits mentioned above contain sucrose, proteins, various vitamins and other nutrients, easily digestible cellulose and pectin. They are the perfect food for soil microorganisms. Pit the fruit, and smash it so it can be more rapidly digested by microorganisms. It should be mush. Add 1 pound or so to the bucket. Decaying fruit that has fallen off a tree is the best. Just save it for making Bug Juice�.

Cornstarch: Starch is present in all organic matter as a form of storage energy. Bugs need to degrade it in the soil in order to obtain a carbon source for their metabolism. Add 5 tablespoons to the bucket.

MaxGro� or blood meal: MaxGro� is a heat sterilized fishmeal that has a high nutrient and growth promoting value for plants and microorganisms. It is the protein source for the bugs and the source of biochemical building blocks for the auxin and cytokinin plant growth hormones. Blood meal is a poor substitute, but it is more readily available. Add 5 tablespoons to the bucket.

Yeast: Yeast is a cheap source of B vitamins. It is also a source of cytokinins and protein. Mix two teaspoons of yeast, two teaspoons of sugar and one teaspoon of bread flour to 2 cups of warm water. When the yeast stops foaming, it has consumed most of the sugar. Add 2 tablespoons of corn starch, 1 tablespoon of bread flour and allow the mixture to sit for 2 hours. You are adapting the yeast to the starch. This is important. In order to break down starch, the yeast must be induced to secrete the enzyme alpha amylase. You want to promote this reaction. Most sugars in the soil are in the form of starch�not sucrose.

You have now mixed the ingredients, a handful of good compost and added water. Mix periodically to aerate the mix and leave the bucket in the sun. After one week, start applying the Bug Juice� to the compost or table scraps you have collected, or directly to poor soil. Bug Juice� can be directly applied to plants, trees, grass, whatever. It is disgusting to look at, but it is a powerful organic "nutrient soup" for the soil. And you made it. You are now officially a backyard scientist.


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clipped on: 07.31.2013 at 06:42 pm    last updated on: 07.31.2013 at 06:43 pm

RE: are you planting a fall garden.....when/what (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: helenh on 07.09.2013 at 03:32 pm in Ozarks Region Forum

I won't plant a fall garden. It is harsh, dry and too hot for me today. I may plant some lettuce and radish seeds if I plant anything. This calendar shows some fall seed planting dates if you hunt for them. Scroll down to the calendar.

Here is a link that might be useful: planting guide


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clipped on: 07.10.2013 at 08:46 am    last updated on: 07.10.2013 at 08:46 am

RE: First tomatoes! (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: pauln on 06.18.2013 at 03:12 pm in Ozarks Region Forum

Max the cat sometimes brings in baby rabbits, and it's not pretty at all. Sometimes, I get to catch and liberate them before he gets tired of playing with them. Alas, that hardwiring goes back millions of years.

I've been growing heirloom tomatoes from seed for about 5 years now, but last year and this is the first time I've had much success. I live in the city, and my yard is shady, but North Little Rock has allowed for development of several neighborhood community gardens, and we've got a really good group.

Last year, I planted my tomatoes in the ground on March 18! I knew it was way early, but I just had the feeling that no cold weather was coming. I picked my first Glacier on May 5! Out of about 25 heirloom varieties, these are hard to beat. They're just a tad bigger than a cherry tomato, but I picked them all summer, even through the awful heat up until the first freeze in November. I have found that the smaller varieties have much better fruit set in high temps than the large fruit varieties.

As the years pass, I try to pay attention to what works and what doesn't. Every year, I try a few new "old" varieties and keep planting my favorites from previous years. In addition to Glacier, I've had good luck with Amana Orange (good size orange, but with more acid 'tomato' flavor than most oranges), Pruden's Purple (like Cherokee, but earlier and a better performer for me), Tangella (small tart orange), black cherry, Sunset Red Horizon (rich red large), pink ping pong (the hits just keep on coming!), Andes (large rich paste), and Oaxacan Jewel (large sweet yellow red that looks like a stained glass window if you slice it.This year's new varieties include tomatillos (large and beautiful, but dreadful fruit set), Abe Lincoln, Japanese Black Trifelle, Ozark Pink, Tiger Paw, Green Zebra, Homestead, Yellow Pear. Also, some chilies I've started from seed include Jalapeno (real ones, not fake-o), Anaheim, Hungarian Hot Wax, Fresno (like bright red jalapenos), and Aji Amarillo (Peruvian hot long yellow).

I'll report on taste and performance for the new ones once they start coming in.

Commercial tomatoes are finally at the markets and roadside stands. I tend to avoid shipper tomatoes if possible. Some truck farms still grow juicy tasty tomatoes.


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clipped on: 06.19.2013 at 01:08 pm    last updated on: 06.19.2013 at 01:09 pm

RE: Using borax to kill ants (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: dchall_san_antonio on 05.19.2013 at 02:00 am in Soil Forum

Another bait for sweet ants is a mix of sugar, molasses, and yeast. The theory is that the ants take sugar back to their underground farms where they eat the bacteria that forms with the sugar and whatever else they farm. But when they get yeast in with it the yeast acts like a biological weapon against their bacteria food. Likely it ferments.

For protein eating ants (fire ants are on this list) there is a product called Greenlight Fire Ant Control with Conserve. Conserve is the trade name for a biological weapon also known as spinosad. Overuse of spinosad is responsible for the loss of many bees in California, so please use this stuff responsibly. It causes paralysis in the insects that consume it. I start with only a two-finger pinch per mound and go up from there if the mound does not become inactive within 2 days.


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clipped on: 05.19.2013 at 07:25 pm    last updated on: 05.19.2013 at 07:25 pm

RE: trying to figure out how to use my camera (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: christie_sw_mo on 05.05.2013 at 07:44 am in Ozarks Region Forum

Sunny - I clicked on browse and then opened nearly everything on my computer trying to figure out where the new program stored the photos. I used the "keep pushing buttons til it works method". lol Picasa stored mine in an easy to find folder titled "pictures". If you can find that, open it( after you've clicked browse), then find the photo you want and click "open" on the bottom right of that page, then I think it will go back to your gardenweb page and the address will be in the box by the word browse. Click preview. On my computer, it takes a few minutes after I preview for the next screen to come up but when it finally does, your photo should appear and you can hit submit. Hope I didn't leave anything out. Someone feel free to correct me if I did.
If you make changes to your message and preview again, your photo will dissapear and you'll have to browse and select it again
So try again Sunny. We're rootin for ya. : )
.


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clipped on: 05.05.2013 at 10:10 am    last updated on: 05.05.2013 at 10:11 am

RE: Cold Frames (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: christie_sw_mo on 01.07.2013 at 09:21 am in Ozarks Region Forum

Ceresone - have you tried posting a photo since Gardenweb added the Browse feature that's three or four lines above where you type your message/reply? You don't have to put photos on Photobucket first anymore. You can just click on "browse" after you've finished typing your message, find a photo, click on the photo, then click "open" and the address will appear on the line next to the word Browse. The photo won't appear in your message until after you preview. You can only add one photo at a time that way though and I think if you make changes and then preview again, you have to go browse for the photo again.


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clipped on: 01.17.2013 at 09:21 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2013 at 09:21 pm

RE: Is it normal for purchased topsoil to contain so many rocks? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: woohooman on 10.31.2012 at 09:18 pm in Soil Forum

My brother who used to run a landscape co. said the best way to do grass seed is to thatch the bare areas, sprinkle down the seed, and then cover with a good COMPOST. Keep moist until sprout.


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clipped on: 11.03.2012 at 09:06 am    last updated on: 11.03.2012 at 09:06 am

RE: Sevin Question (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: gldno1 on 07.30.2012 at 07:41 am in Ozarks Region Forum

Sorry to be so late to see this.

I buy the concentrate at Race Brothers and use my 2 gallon hand sprayer or my 15 gallon one. I use 1.5 to 2 oz. per gallon.


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clipped on: 07.30.2012 at 10:04 am    last updated on: 07.30.2012 at 10:04 am

RE: First spring with Zoysia and battling the dead leaves, I thin (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: texas-weed on 04.07.2012 at 10:30 am in Lawn Care Forum

I had kept it at 3" all last year, but this year tried to go to 1" per some recommendations. However, when I started it was all twigs and dirt. It just scared me to much

It is suppose to look like that after it is scalped, and is a good thing.

Zoysia and Bermuda are the two varieties that respond positively by being scalped, especially Zoysia.

Al that tan grass you see is last years growth. It will never green up. It will have to decay. By scalping you remove all that material, and yes it will look like nothing but twigs and stems.

Zoysia has one major major problem. It is a heavy thatch producer which leads to all kinds of problems with insects, disease, fungal problems, and watering issues. By scalping each year followed by a good raking removes the thatch buildup. Zoysia is a very tough fibrous plant and the clippings and dead dormant grass breaks down very slowly, so it accumulates very quickly forming thatch. You need to get rid of it.

In addition Zoysia needs very little fertilizer, only 2 to 3 applications per growing season. If you go pushing too much fertilizer on it will cause thatch problems because you are forcing it to grow faster than normal. It receives its first fertilizer application after it has greened up and been mowed at least once, twice is perfect. This is well after it has been scalped earlier in the season.

Second application is done 8 to 10 weeks after the first application and you are dome for the year in most areas of the country. In Gulf Coast states where you have very long growing seasons a third application is applied 8 to 10 weeks after the second application, or about 2 months before first frost.

So my recommendation is to quit killing your grass with kindness. Scalp it down every year before it starts to green up, rake it hard to remove all the debris, wait until it has been mowed once or twice before you apply the first fertilizer application of the year, do not over fertilize it, and alternate between bagging and mulch mowing to minimize thatch build up during the season. Do that and the grass will reward you. It may not make you happy, but it will make the grass happy happy.


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clipped on: 07.05.2012 at 03:12 pm    last updated on: 07.05.2012 at 03:12 pm

Unexpected results with homemade Insecticidal Soap. Dr. Bonners.

posted by: gnhelton on 05.26.2012 at 11:23 pm in Organic Gardening Forum

liquid.(Peppermint Liquid Soap)

I mixed about 2 and half tablespoons in 32 ounces of water in a spray bottle. Took my watering hose around and wet the ground around my squash. Got numerous stink bugs to come up and sun and then I spayed them with soap and I moved on. About 45 minutes later I was walking by and saw dead stink bugs. That was fast, much faster result than I expected.

Now. Does this have a negative effect on the soil food web? I just dowsed the bugs but of course got some on the plants and around the base of the plants.

INGREDIENTS:
Water, Organic Coconut Oil*, Potassium Hydroxide**, Organic Olive Oil*, Mentha Arvensis*, Organic Hemp Oil, Organic Jojoba Oil, Organic Peppermint Oil*, Citric Acid, Tocopherol

Photobucket

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clipped on: 06.14.2012 at 08:25 am    last updated on: 06.14.2012 at 08:26 am

RE: Mycorrhiza (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: novascapes on 05.21.2012 at 07:15 am in Soil Forum

calypsobloomer, Arbuscular Mycorrhizal Fungi need live roots to stay alive (endomycorrhizal fungi) as they live within the root. I have not herd of anything that would keep it alive for that period of time. The best I have herd of is a shelf life of one year claimed by some companies.

idaho_gardener, Legumes have a symbiotic relationship with rhizobia ( a bacteria). Specific inoculants are used and sold for them. The Myco has also been found to benefit them as well.

blazeaglory, I doubt that the fungi that you observed on the bottom of the pot was the endo variety. It may have been a variety of ecto (which some are also beneficial. The endo live within the root cells and are microscopic. The roots, called hyphae are also microscopic. The roots are so small they can go between the molecules of clay soil. This is how they are able to extract nutrients which are normally unavailable to the plant roots.


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clipped on: 05.21.2012 at 08:33 am    last updated on: 05.21.2012 at 08:33 am

RE: Florida Weave: Distance between plants (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: timmy1 on 03.25.2011 at 09:25 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

18 inches between plants...

stake...9in...plant...18in...plant...9in stake.

Pound your stakes at 36in and put a plant 9in off each stake. Done it a million times.


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clipped on: 05.12.2012 at 12:05 pm    last updated on: 05.12.2012 at 12:05 pm

RE: Miracle grow chick (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: chuggerguy on 04.20.2012 at 01:07 am in Growing Tomatoes Forum

I was surprised to learn that I.E.'s new "Tracking Protection" feature allows subscribing to some of the same "lists" that are available to AdBlockPlus.


(Click to view full-sized)


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clipped on: 04.23.2012 at 07:53 am    last updated on: 04.23.2012 at 07:53 am

RE: Terra Preta/ Bio-Char (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: jolj on 01.09.2011 at 11:08 pm in Soil Forum

2lbs of organic charcoal grind up to corn to rice size & add 1 cup of azomite or real salt let stand in compost for 6months to activate. Then feed your plant beds.


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clipped on: 04.01.2012 at 09:09 am    last updated on: 04.01.2012 at 09:09 am

RE: Garden Tone (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: gunnersm8 on 01.26.2012 at 01:04 pm in Organic Gardening Forum

Second the tea, i put a shovel full of compost(mines all plant based, no manure) and dump it in a 5 gal bucket with molasses. i do however use one of those battery powered bait aerators. you can get them at a tackle shop for like 8$. let it bubble for a full day and night and the next afternoon its in the garden. plants seemed to thoroughly enjoy it, the wife however, not so much...


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clipped on: 01.26.2012 at 07:24 pm    last updated on: 01.26.2012 at 07:24 pm

RE: Garden Tone (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Rising_Moon on 01.18.2012 at 09:06 pm in Organic Gardening Forum

The compost tea should ideally be made from black, crumbly, earthy smelling compost. I just use a simple bucket method, put a couple handfuls of compost in an old screen from a window, tie it shut, pour in 3 spoonfuls of molasses in the water, and stir a couple times a day for 3 days. Dilute 1:5 1:10 1:30 depending on what effect you want.
You can also add a number of different herbal plants for different effects or fish emulsion to this mix if you want to.

Greensand is best added directly to the growing medium.


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clipped on: 01.26.2012 at 07:22 pm    last updated on: 01.26.2012 at 07:22 pm

RE: Where to buy organic weed killer products in Springfield MO (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: smilingsun on 12.28.2011 at 04:56 pm in Ozarks Region Forum

Hi, I don't know if anyone will get this post but we have an Organic Garden Center in Springfield, MO now located at 1161 W Division 65803, it is called Smiling Sun...give us a call sometime 865-6118, if we don't have exactly what you are looking for, we will get it!!

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clipped on: 12.29.2011 at 02:03 pm    last updated on: 01.22.2012 at 06:09 am

RE: Biochar available, make your own?? (Follow-Up #46)

posted by: rosewater on 01.19.2009 at 08:43 pm in Soil Forum

The September/October 2008 edition of the Australian "Organic Gardener" magazine had an article by Peter Cundall on biochar which included the following instructions on how to make it from charcoal produced by a slow-combustion wood heater:

1. After the charcoal has cooled, add wet coconut coir to keep the moisture in and help absorb dust particles.

2. To crush the charcoal, use 2 hefty firewood logs, 1 of them with a fairly flat surface.

3. Spread a plastic sheet over an area of level ground, with the flat piece of wood laid on top, near the centre.

4. Thickly spread the charcoal pieces over the flat top of the wood and give them a good thumping, using the butt of the second log.

It takes only minutes to make half a bucket of crushed charcoal.

5. Into this, mix one part coarse sand and garden (or potting) soil to double the bulk.

If leafy or other nitrogen hungry vegetables are to be grown, add 2 litres of water into which 1 tablespoon of fish emulsion and another of seaweed concentrate is dissolved.

When this is poured into the charcoal mix, a stiff black slurry, thickly dotted with fragments of charcoal is created. It can be stored or used straight away.

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clipped on: 01.11.2012 at 10:14 am    last updated on: 01.11.2012 at 10:15 am

RE: After further thought on the Fe problem (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: fortyonenorth on 12.18.2011 at 10:09 pm in Soil Forum

Hey 41north: never heard of vertical mulching, what is it?

Well, for starters, it would help if I referred to it correctly. There is a technique called "vertical mulching," but what I meant to say was "Fertile Mulching." I came across this technique at soilminerals.com. Michael Astera credits Gary Kline of Black Lake Organic in Olympia, Washington. In the document, Michael suggests the "Fertile Mulching" technique is a method to effectively fertilize established orchards, vineyards and other perennial plantings. After looking at it again, it is very similar to the method garg recommended above.

>> Apply the recommended soil amendments and/or fertility mix to the area under the plant's canopy, out to and a bit beyond the drip line.

>> Wet the whole area down well, to wash the amendments into the soil.

>> On top of this spread 1⁄2 inch of quality compost, and if needed several layers of newsprint or a single layer of corrugated cardboard to keep the weeds and grass down.

>> Wet that down well, then cover the area with 3" of mulch such as straw or ground bark. The feeder roots of the plant will grow up into the newly fertilized zone.

>> When you wish to apply more fertilizer, rake the top part of the mulch back out of the way, being careful not to damage new feeder roots, apply the new amendments, then rake the mulch back into place.

>> If rock or clay phosphate have been recommended, it is a good idea to aerate the soil out to the dripline, using a tapered point digging bar to poke a number of holes about 4" deep. Then spread the phosphate and other amendments and irrigate well before mulching. If time and labor are available, the fertility mix may be poured directly into the holes. This will help get the usually immobile phosphate deeper into the soil. A plug cutting aerator such as is used for lawns will also work.

>> Keep the mulch damp during the growing season if possible.


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clipped on: 12.21.2011 at 10:25 am    last updated on: 12.21.2011 at 10:25 am

RE: heating mat concept that works (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: bigbob7777 on 12.12.2011 at 08:33 pm in Greenhouses & Garden Structures Forum

A cheap, effective process that works for me is: I place 2 shop lights, facing up; then plexiglass on top of the lights; then the plants/trays on top of the plexi. Works wonderfully and costs about $20 for 4' of heated surface.

bob


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clipped on: 12.17.2011 at 09:42 pm    last updated on: 12.17.2011 at 09:42 pm

RE: heating mat concept that works (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: karin_mt on 12.12.2011 at 01:38 pm in Greenhouses & Garden Structures Forum

Nice! I also use foil and some sheets of styrofoam underneath my heat mats, to try to keep the heat from just flowing out the bottom of the shelf. I like your ideas though and I may have to try something similar with the rope lights. Thanks for sharing this creative solution!


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clipped on: 12.17.2011 at 09:42 pm    last updated on: 12.17.2011 at 09:42 pm

heating mat concept that works

posted by: brandond on 12.12.2011 at 08:26 am in Greenhouses & Garden Structures Forum

As everyone knows heating mats are incredibly expensive. I have copied a concept and taken materials I have on hand to make this work for me. I have a bench top in my greenhouse thats roughly 2x3 feet for starting seeds or for propagation. I took an old window shied visor thats made of foil and placed it on the bench and staple it with 3/8 staples. I placed a 12 foot section of incadescent rope lighting over the foil and placed some 18 in ceramic tiles on top of the rope lighting, which was placed in a coil design. The alumium visor is to deflect heat,not absorb heat back, and direct it back to the ceramic tile. Within 20 minutes or so the tile heats up nice. The rope lighting is cheap,works well, and is waterproof. I need to determine the temps of the tiles once its left on for a period of time, so I may repost something later. I basiclly used all recycled materials to make something nice and asethic. t

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clipped on: 12.17.2011 at 09:41 pm    last updated on: 12.17.2011 at 09:41 pm

Agree with kimmsr 100% - I checked on that (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 11.30.2011 at 10:10 pm in Soil Forum

Kimmsr from MI is always right!! I always get good info. from Kimmsr, and they are always correct, backed up by University Extension sources. Here's a simple pH test for your compost:

Chop a 50 cents worth of red cabbage really small. Buy 90 cents gallon of distilled water. Boil 1 cup of finely chopped cabbage in 2 cups of distilled water for 10 minutes. Let it cool down slightly so you don't scald yourself. Strain and discard cabbage solids, but keep the purple water.

In tiny containers, I use old plastic fruit cups, or plastic Mott's applesauce cups. These are the samples: Few drops of vinegar - 2 teaspoons of baking soda - 1 heaping tablespoon of your compost - 1 heaping tablespoon of MiracleGro potting soil - 1 heaping tablespoon of your native soil, if pH is already tested professionally - 1 tablespoon of peat moss
Pour equal amount of purple cabbage juice to each containers. The color changes should be: bright pink for vinegar (pH 2 to 3), deep reddish pink for peat moss (pH of 4), light pink for MiracleGro potting soil (pH of 6 to 6.5). If any of these pink color happens to your compost sample, then it's OK to add wood ash if you want neutral compost.

The baking soda is alkaline, pH of 9, and the color should be greenish-blue. My pH of 7.7 soil have a blue-purple color in red cabbage juice . If your soil or compost tested blue-purple, or even more alkaline greenish blue, you don't need wood ash or charcoal, it would drive the pH past 8.


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clipped on: 12.04.2011 at 08:21 am    last updated on: 12.04.2011 at 08:21 am

RE: Fall gardening questions...AR (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: NancyPlants on 10.28.2011 at 01:19 pm in Ozarks Region Forum

Welcome to the Ozarks Forum
I'm actually from NE Kansas but the people on this forum are so friendly and helpful that I feel very at home here :)

I havent grown your specific crops either but with Chard I cut the outer leaves and leave the smaller ones to grown. They keep producing and producing. Very tasty sauteed with leeks and a bit of garlic...yummm

I'm glad you're having success with your first garden. This was a difficult year for alot of people.


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clipped on: 10.30.2011 at 08:36 am    last updated on: 10.30.2011 at 08:36 am

RE: add red worms? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: jay243 on 09.08.2011 at 01:07 pm in Soil Forum

The most important item is the worm you chose. I found that 99 percent of the worm Farmers sell a worm not from the U. S.

They are invasive worms that can cause great impacts out of their environment. I live in Florida and found Hong Kong Willie to be one of the few Worm Farmers to have a native worm to Florida.

I wanted to be a ground grower, for all other worms had not worked. I found Hongkongwillie with the native worm that would not leave the bed. No lights, no barriers. They have done well for two winters outside. Freezes, hot weather, over 95 degrees. I compost almost all food items. Outside seems to be more forgiving. Worms in time will almost eat anything.
Yes they are under oak trees and need a little moisture. His farm has been outside for over 30 years And was primary in the Fishing worm business in the first years. Both other worms (Eisenia foetida, and European Night crawlers are non native worms) these never made it outside. Both wanted to leave. As all of us have found, you need some rate of moisture to compost.

Here is a little History and what persuaded me on a native worm for me living in Florida.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrV3Aj85I84

Here is a link that might be useful: http://redwigglerforsaletampa.blogspot.com


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clipped on: 09.09.2011 at 10:18 am    last updated on: 09.09.2011 at 10:18 am

RE: Greenhouse problem! (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: terrybull on 07.15.2011 at 10:27 am in Greenhouses & Garden Structures Forum

box fans in each window. 1 blowing out 1 blowing in. the 1 blowing in on the coolest side of the greenhous. and shade cloth.


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clipped on: 07.22.2011 at 11:27 am    last updated on: 07.22.2011 at 11:28 am

RE: Post your favorite tomato dishes!! (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: ladon on 07.11.2011 at 02:51 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Hmmm... I've never really written down the recipe, so I'll have to wing it! These are approximations but like everything else much is a matter of taste. I've also simplified it by buying ready-made pizza dough from my local market. Frankly, its as good as anything I can make and saves lots of time and trouble. Also, I've found oregano and thyme are great for this, but you can add whatever herbs you like. So here goes...

2 bags ready made fresh pizza dough (approx 4 cups)
2 pints fresh ricotta (italian, not polly-o...can't be too wet)
6-8 cloves garlic minced
2 tbs. chopped fresh oregano
2 tbs. chopped fresh thyme
bunch of fresh thyme unchopped
2 tbs. chopped anchovies (optional)
1/4 cup extra vigin olive oil
4-6 large heirloom tomatoes (number will depend on the size of your tomatoes... I used Cherokee purple and Brandywine in this one. But use what you got!! Later in the season I'll have more colors)
Reggiano Parmesan...shaved or grated
1/2 sheet pan or cookie sheet with edges

Preheat oven to 450...like a pizza oven.
Getting the pizza dough rolled out on the pan is the toughest part of this recipe. If you have a better method, use it but here's what I do. Brush your pan with some of the olive oil, just so it's coated. Roll out your dough using a rolling pin on a lightly floured cutting board that is larger than your sheet pan, until the dough is approximately 1/4 inch thick and larger than your pan. Lay your pan upside down on top of the flat dough and in one move invert the cutting board, dough and sheet pan so that the dough is now laying flat on the pan with the edges hanging over the side. (you may want to ask someone to help with the flip...it can be a little awkward to do alone...LOL) Remove the cutting board. Adjust your dough so it sits comfortable in the pan, with the extra still hanging over the side. In a medium bowl mix the ricotta, minced garlic, chopped herbs, anchovies (if you're using them) and salt and pepper to taste. Spread ricotta mixture a spoonful at a time over the dough, using a rubber spatula. Slice your tomatoes approximately 1/3 inch thick and start placing them as tightly as you can without overlapping on top of your ricotta. Don't cut them too thick or the pie will get too wet, too thin and they'll dry out. Cover the whole surface filling in the spaces with any extra pieces. Season with salt and pepper. Loosely, garnish with sprigs of thyme and drizzle remaining olive oil lightly over top. Cut the excess dough around the perimeter of the pan and roll the edges in so they form a little border around the edge of the pie. Bake in oven at 450 until crust is golden brown and tomatoes are slightly bubbling. Move pie to broiler for about 5 minutes just to finish caramelizing the tomatoes. Remove from oven and let it sit for about 10 minutes so the tomatoes and ricotta set. Cut it up and serve with shaved Parmesan. It's excellent hot or cold, and one of my favorite tomato recipes.
Hope you like it....Enjoy!!
Don


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clipped on: 07.17.2011 at 01:44 pm    last updated on: 07.17.2011 at 01:45 pm

RE: Spinach (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: hydroponica on 11.15.2008 at 01:37 pm in Hydroponics Forum

Spinach can be deceptively heavy-eating. You can grow it and lettuce together, but it helps if your lettuce is a strain that's more resistant to burning than most. I grew spinach and lettuce together using a tip-burn resistant Grand Rapids lettuce.

In my experience you can't put too much light on lettuce or spinach, at least not with artificial lighting. The main concern in that regard is that spinach matures more rapidly in higher heat which means a smaller crop because it will bolt to seed sooner. So you end up with the struggle of cranking out as much light as possible to promote more rapid growth while keeping temperatures cool (say low to mid 70's or less) so your spinach keeps growing leaves instead of flowers.

Check this link for a general guideline of what plants prefer.

Here is a link that might be useful: pH and ppm for common vegetables


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clipped on: 04.16.2011 at 01:40 pm    last updated on: 04.16.2011 at 01:40 pm

RE: worm castings (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: pjames on 03.23.2011 at 08:39 pm in Soil Forum

I raise 3 varieties of worms and find that properly managed bins have little leachate. Worms do better in wetter environments than normal (hot) composting but that does not mean swampy.

I have been using quite a bit of vermicompost in this year's planting and have had excellent results. I use about 25% vc.


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clipped on: 03.23.2011 at 11:33 pm    last updated on: 03.23.2011 at 11:33 pm

RE: March 2011 What Have You Fed Your Compost Today? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: piranhafem on 03.06.2011 at 10:21 pm in Soil Forum

I looked into renting a chipper and found it was ridiculously expensive, something like $150 for a day. I hired a couple of guys to come out and do the chipping for me. Later I bought a small electric chipper at Harbor Frieght for about $120. It can only take fairly small branches but after reading a tip on this forum, I removed the plastic safety feed chute and it is MUCH easier to use and I can get it to shred a lot more types of garden waste. It's pretty dangerous so I'm extremely careful, and always wear my safety goggles.

I even use it to shred used coffee filters. I get lots of UCG w/ filters from a nearby convenience store, and found that the filters just weren't breaking down well unless I shredded them. Doing it by hand was extremely tedious. The chipper clogged with the plastic safety feed chute attached but does a GREAT job with the chute removed.

Today's offerings to the compost pile included cabbage butts, carrot butts, tops, and peelings, and herb stems, all from my own garden... which is nourished with compost. Ah, the circle of life! :-)

--Maureen


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clipped on: 03.19.2011 at 08:01 pm    last updated on: 03.19.2011 at 08:02 pm

RE: ' let the battle begin' (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: sweetwm007 on 03.16.2011 at 08:44 pm in Ozarks Region Forum

finding al's ingredients in this area is difficult.
what i ended up using was stay green shrub and tree mix. i put 5 cans of this and then added 2 cans of perlite. this is as close as i could get last yr. the stay green is 65% pine bark fines and some peat and they have some lime and ferts also. as i said this is a modified version. al's mix is 5 parts pine bark fines 1 part peat and 1 part perlite with a tablespoon of lime. al's gritty mix is different.
got the staygreen at lowes. lowe's also carries outside on their shelves micro nutrients. just look in the fertilizer section next to the back door outside.
this has made a believer out of me.

william


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clipped on: 03.18.2011 at 05:50 pm    last updated on: 03.18.2011 at 05:50 pm

RE: For the water barrel skeptics (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: another_buffalo on 02.11.2011 at 02:47 pm in Greenhouses & Garden Structures Forum

Back in March 09, goodgreen posted a story about his home within a greenhouse. Here is a link to a page in goodgreens website showing an earth oven. http://www.goodgreenfarm.com/earth_oven_photos.htm

I built one at home, then we built another last summer at the farmers market. It is a permanant structure. At the market, we got creative and embeded a 4foot length of 1/4inch od coppertubing to heat water for coffee, etc. Since the earth oven gets up over 1000degrees inside, we were afraid to embed a larger piece of copper for fear of scalding folks when the water comes out the bottom. Some kids in Cal have heated a hot tub in this manner with very little wood. It would be a great way to keep numerous barrels of water hot in a greenhouse.

Our costs were $36 for 18 firebricks and $32 for builders sand from the HW store. You could put the earth oven right in the greenhouse to increase the heat, but I would not recommend it. We were cooking pizzas in the oven in three minutes and it is a great thing to have outside in summer for cooking pizza and bread. And maybe heating a hot tub...

Check on Amazon for a book entitled Earth Oven by Kiko Denzer to learn how to build the oven. For info on embeding the copper, just email me.
Carol


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clipped on: 02.12.2011 at 09:16 am    last updated on: 02.12.2011 at 09:16 am

RE: The hyacinths are blooming...... (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mulberryknob on 02.09.2011 at 03:20 pm in Oklahoma Gardening Forum

It's so easy and much cheaper than buying a blooming potfull in midwinter. I've been doing it for years. I leave them outdoors through late Dec then onto the porch thru late Jan then into the house to bloom in early to midFeb. Then plant them out in March to grow on.


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clipped on: 02.09.2011 at 06:58 pm    last updated on: 02.09.2011 at 06:58 pm

RE: 'Homemade,' Inexpensive Tests to Determine Soil Type, Drainag (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: piedmontnc on 02.02.2011 at 07:49 pm in Soil Forum

These simple soil tests can supply the information you want.
1) Structure. TEXTURE From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

One of these days, kimmsr will finally admit he's wrong and start using correct SOIL SCIENCE terminology.


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clipped on: 02.03.2011 at 11:06 am    last updated on: 02.03.2011 at 11:07 am

RE: Seed starting mediums (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: kathywide on 01.24.2011 at 08:40 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Best to use potting mix, not potting soil. (Potting soil is too heavy, even when re-potting seedlings.)
Some gardeners have had good luck with Hyponex or Pro Mix.
Personally, I always make my own. Equal parts peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite. Check out the link below for more info on potting mix for starting tomato seeds.

Here is a link that might be useful: Potting mix to use when starting tomato seeds


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clipped on: 01.25.2011 at 02:21 pm    last updated on: 01.25.2011 at 02:22 pm

RE: worm castings (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: curt_grow on 06.27.2010 at 07:11 pm in Soil Forum

Straight castings is indeed overboard. Studies I have read recommend no more then 40%. Now for my lettuce grown indoors in pots I use 1 part sphagnum peat moss, 1/2 part vermiculite, 1/2 part Perlite, 1 part aged worm casting. Almost Mel's mix with worm poop instead of compost. It will grow 4-5 weeks with nothing but water then growth slows I then use MG weekly. I also used fish fert. but not to be used in the kitchen.(phew) This soil does hold a lot of water that's why I use it on lettuce. After 6-8 weeks the lettuce is harvested and the mix is composted. I have reused It over, but as Al said it is breaking down by then

Curt~


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clipped on: 01.24.2011 at 07:24 pm    last updated on: 01.24.2011 at 07:24 pm

RE: be careful black ice on concrete steps! (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: sweetwm007 on 01.23.2011 at 11:26 am in Ozarks Region Forum

sorry to get off topic with sunny's original post but it is slow and winter is here.

helen- sta green has different mixes. get the tree and shrub mix. comes in a green bag and i think the bag is about 7 bucks and it is 2.2 cubic feet. good pricing and a good amount. i used a 3 1 2 fertilizer and i think mg is just that. lowes also carries the micronutients. they come in different names and packages. just read the label. they are in the same section as the displayed fertilizer areas.
this mix really drains.
hope this helps.

be aware that the seed racks went up in walmart here yesterday. let the fun begin.

william


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clipped on: 01.23.2011 at 02:34 pm    last updated on: 01.23.2011 at 02:35 pm

RE: be careful black ice on concrete steps! (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: sweetwm007 on 01.22.2011 at 07:07 pm in Ozarks Region Forum

i use a somewhat modified 5 1 1 mix by al for container plants. we don't have pine bark fines readily available but sta green at lowe's has a tree/ bush mix that is 60- 65 % fines plus a little peat mixed in. i doubled the perlite amount in al's recipe. i had more pepper plants/ fruits then i could give away. bet the gritty mix is even better.

william


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clipped on: 01.23.2011 at 09:35 am    last updated on: 01.23.2011 at 09:35 am

RE: Why I love the internet...really it's ON TOPIC (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: blutranes on 03.09.2009 at 10:36 pm in Soil Forum

Please tell us more of what you did...did you ferment potato sprouts?

No, I just cut the spuds and planted them. They took so long to break ground I thought they had rot in the ground. I poured Potato BIM on the rows and out they came. I planted potatoes because the moon was right at the time, plus potatoes can handle a frost if it comes late (and it does every year, thus the Good Friday rule). The only thing I am going to do different this year is use BIM at critical growing phases during the season.

The translation of that long piece on the BIMS and the mixtures leaves something to be desired

I am going to keep this as simple as possible for those who are having a problem with all the rhetoric that all the links provide. I first had to realize that the people who use this technique dont have access to big box stores or feed mills, thus they are using what they have at hand (we happen to call it organic gardening). If we do the same making BIM is as easy as making compost (ok, bad example but you get the idea).

I took some seed potatoes left from last year, cut them in quarters, and then placed them in a 5-gallon bucket. I added enough water to the bucket to cover the potatoes about an inch over the stack and covered them with a loose fitting lid. I let them sit until I saw mold growing on the top (a little over a week due to cool temperatures). I then added a half-gallon of water, two cups of feed molasses, stirred the mix, and then replaced the lid. One week later I took the resulting brew, strained it through cheesecloth into gallon jugs and stored them. The hardest part is waiting and smelling the end product. To use the brew I took two (2) tablespoons of the brew and added it to one (1) gallon of water and then watered the potato rows. I followed the same procedure when making the pear, cabbage, and kudzu brew. Like I said, the smell will separate the wheat from the chafe.

To make the lactose BIM, instead of adding water once the mold has formed is to add milk. The curd will come to the top, strain that out of the brew and store. I also plan on making fish, banana, seaweed, grits, and okra BIM. Also, I have used "cane syrup" instead of molasses in two of the brews; only because a neighbor gave me a gallon of the syrup he found in his crib (made in 1966 by his dad; it was as fresh as the day it was bottled).

Anubis asked:

It seems like making a brew of potato eating bacteria would be less then helpful when sprayed on the potatoes?

You are right; skimming over material can cause lack of understanding. Over here, organic food doesnt "rot", it dehydrates. Plants are no more in danger of being eaten than they are when being placed in compost-amended soil to grow. The link below has a section called "Plant Specific Microorganism"; it may help to look at that section closer for a better understanding IMO.

Foliar feeding of plants with BIM should not be a hard process IMO. I do my best to keep it simple, use what I have on hand, and then let nature do what it does. The rest as they say, is in the hands of the revenuers

Blutranes

Here is a link that might be useful: Beneficial Indigenous Organisms (BIM)


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clipped on: 01.21.2011 at 04:57 pm    last updated on: 01.21.2011 at 04:57 pm

RE: Why I love the internet...really it's ON TOPIC (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: blutranes on 03.08.2009 at 10:32 pm in Soil Forum

Hi Pennymca,

Well, we just put up our first batch of BIM yesterday and I must admit the aroma of some of those brews have tested our organic commitment over here. I have to tell you some of the smells emitted still have my eyeballs rolling in two different directions. Making this stuff is not for the faint of heart or weak of stomach to say the least.

Some of the brews were not that bad; Pear BIM can be tolerated, but Cabbage BIM is to be avoided at all costs, I dont care if it makes vegetables grow into the Stratosphere. Potato BIM is "iffy" smell wise, but real ugly to look at, and the Rice BIM is not that bad save the milk odor. I still have to make some kind of Melon BIM, as well as Tomato BIM. Lets just say I cant wait for those as well as Squash BIM. I too made a bucket of Kudzu BIM, but that was just made today so no smell report yet.

I did drench the potatoes I planted last week or so with the Potato BIM, they broke ground the next day. As soon as the moon is right (its a southern thing) I will start getting the beds ready and give them all a good spray before I plant next month (after Good Friday, again another southern thing). I too have made two bins of compost and sprayed them with Lactose BIM; the smoke is coming out both of those rascals as they cook right now.

The only real issue is where to store all the jugs. They will NOT be living in the shed or the barn, and I know that for a fact! I am beginning to feel like "Snuffy Smith", looking for the revenuers to come busting out the woods at any moment. The crazy thing is that I am having a ball doing all this; I may get a "gold seal" on my wacko certificate before all is said and done with this one

Blutranes


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clipped on: 01.21.2011 at 04:51 pm    last updated on: 01.21.2011 at 04:52 pm

RE: another bug juice question (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: stephe7 on 06.28.2009 at 08:52 am in Soil Forum

This is the orginal recipe from Dr Steve.

This is what you need in order to make Bug Juice.

One 5 gallon bucket.
Corn starch
Bread yeast
MaxGro our fishmeal product, or another source of protein. Blood meal will work.
Ripe fruit, such as plums, apples, apricots, peaches, watermelons, peeled bananas or whatever. No citrus.

The Bug Juice Formula

Fruit: The fruits mentioned above contain sucrose, proteins, various vitamins and other nutrients, easily digestible cellulose and pectin. They are the perfect food for soil microorganisms. Pit the fruit, and smash it so it can be more rapidly digested by microorganisms. It should be mush. Add 1 pound or so to the bucket. Decaying fruit that has fallen off a tree is the best. Just save it for making Bug Juice.

Cornstarch: Starch is present in all organic matter as a form of storage energy. Bugs need to degrade it in the soil in order to obtain a carbon source for their metabolism. Add 5 tablespoons to the bucket.

MaxGro or blood meal: MaxGro is a heat sterilized fishmeal that has a high nutrient and growth promoting value for plants and microorganisms. It is the protein source for the bugs and the source of biochemical building blocks for the auxin and cytokinin plant growth hormones. Blood meal is a poor substitute, but it is more readily available. Add 5 tablespoons to the bucket.

Yeast: Yeast is a cheap source of B vitamins. It is also a source of cytokinins and protein. Mix two teaspoons of yeast, two teaspoons of sugar and one teaspoon of bread flour to 2 cups of warm water. When the yeast stops foaming, it has consumed most of the sugar. Add 2 tablespoons of corn starch, 1 tablespoon of bread flour and allow the mixture to sit for 2 hours. You are adapting the yeast to the starch. This is important. In order to break down starch, the yeast must be induced to secrete the enzyme alpha amylase. You want to promote this reaction. Most sugars in the soil are in the form of starchnot sucrose.

You have now mixed the ingredients, a handful of good compost and added water. Mix periodically to aerate the mix and leave the bucket in the sun. After one week, start applying the Bug Juice to the compost or table scraps you have collected, or directly to poor soil. Bug Juice can be directly applied to plants, trees, grass, whatever. It is disgusting to look at, but it is a powerful organic "nutrient soup" for the soil. And you made it. You are now officially a backyard scientist.


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clipped on: 01.21.2011 at 04:34 pm    last updated on: 01.21.2011 at 04:34 pm

RE: another bug juice question (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: blutranes on 04.19.2009 at 08:18 pm in Soil Forum

Holly said:

" I put my potatoes in a bucket, add the molasses and the water at the beginning. Then what? Do I stir it everyday or should I let it sit?"

When you add the two together stir them really well, cover the brew to keep out vermin and let it sit (no more stirring required). After the mold grows on top (2-7 days depending on temperature) strain the brew and add 20 parts more water. I too add a little more molasses to keep the microbes happy and well fed. Use this as your stock blend. When ready to use add two tablespoons to a gallon of water, stir and use on plants. The end results should always have a sweet/alcoholic odor, never a rotten smell.

" Couldn't I save this batch if I add some milk? I only added the molasses on Wednesday, maybe its not too late?"

Nope, you will only end up with some stinky potatoes with milk mixed in the brew. On the compost pile is where it should go; it is well past "too late", and at least you didnt waste any of the milk. When I learn something new there is never any waste (other than my time), yet I always end up the better for it. Sorry it turned out this way for you, however, better now than later in the season when stuff is really growing

Blutranes


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clipped on: 01.21.2011 at 04:30 pm    last updated on: 01.21.2011 at 04:30 pm

RE: Tomatoe stringing question (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: bmoser on 01.19.2011 at 09:37 am in Greenhouses & Garden Structures Forum

The only exception would be for the few plants close to a circulation fan. For those I tie a small clay flower pot to the end of the stringline.

I like to place the first clip opposite the first branch so that the stringline is fairly tight. If you start with a drooping line you will have plants leaning in various directions.


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clipped on: 01.20.2011 at 11:17 am    last updated on: 01.20.2011 at 11:20 am

RE: Tomatoe stringing question (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: cuestaroble on 01.17.2011 at 02:11 pm in Greenhouses & Garden Structures Forum

One of the round plastic clips is placed around the bottom of the stem, and the string attaches to the clip. No ground level cables are used.


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clipped on: 01.20.2011 at 11:16 am    last updated on: 01.20.2011 at 11:17 am

RE: How to build a mist timer. (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: AdrianaG on 11.09.2002 at 01:56 pm in Garden Experiments Forum

Would it not be easier and cheaper to do the following:

1 - 20-50 gallon drum with a float valve - good cheap valves with a threaded hose connection can be obtained from any seed and feed store or you can rig a toilet float valve if you're handy

1- small pump - for $48 you can get a great submersible 1/3 hp utility pump at Lowes

1 - timer

- PVC pipe or flexible supply line with Misters

The timer turns the pump on and off as needed, the float valve refills the tank as needed.


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clipped on: 01.14.2011 at 10:20 pm    last updated on: 01.14.2011 at 10:20 pm

RE: Growing plants with magnets (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: The_Tree on 06.09.2005 at 01:43 pm in Garden Experiments Forum

You can increase the growth of plants with magnets. The best way is to put seeds on a flat magnet (about 1500-2500 gauss) for a period of 2-6 days before planting. You'll need to experiment to find the absolute best length of time to leave them on the magnet. Plant the seeds within a day after taking them off of the magnet. You can magnetize the water that you water the plants with too. The polarity of the magnet does matter. Usually the South pole will increase growth. Some plants actually do better with North pole energy. Magnets can be attached to the hose (south pole of magnet facing hose) and given to the roots only, not the foliage. Using magnetized water alone can significantly increase the growth. If you thoroughly look into the history of using magnets for growing plants, you'll come accross the information I've given you, but it's difficult to find. Remember, the side of the magnet you put the seeds on and the side of the magnet facing the hose makes all of the difference. Generally, plants that grow under ground (potatoes) prefer North pole energy, above ground plants prefer South pole energy. There are exceptions. Magnetizing your plants is well worth the effort. They'll taste better and have a higher yield.


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clipped on: 01.14.2011 at 08:26 pm    last updated on: 01.14.2011 at 08:26 pm

RE: Growing plants with magnets (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: janemccl on 04.04.2004 at 11:07 pm in Garden Experiments Forum

I have never grown plants with magnets. However, my dentist made me get a water pick which helped some with gum infection, but I still had problems. Then the water pick broke, and the hygenist recommended a magnetic water pick. The water got magnetized as it went through the machine. The infection all disappeared in three months by the next check up, and has not come back.
Because the water pick impressed me, I bought some magnets from the internet and started magnetizing my drinking water.
At first I felt great, then, after a couple of months, not so great. The magnets are reputed to make hard water soft, so maybe they removed too much magnesium and potassium from the water and my body didn't get enough. I would like to go back to it though. I think a glass a day might be good. It may clear infections?

Also, I put some flowers in magnetic water, and the water NEVER got yucky, and the flowers lasted a LONG time. The water stayed clear and sweet with no rot on the flower stems.

What magnetic water does to sprouting seeds or growing plants, I don't know.

Best, Jane


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clipped on: 01.14.2011 at 08:23 pm    last updated on: 01.14.2011 at 08:23 pm

RE: First Gardening Catalog! (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: christie_sw_mo on 11.19.2010 at 07:25 am in Ozarks Region Forum

Glenda! You know you'll regret that. lol
Tradewinds Fruit is offering free shipping for orders over $7.50 and they have lots of vegetable and flower seeds as well as fruit seeds. Looks like most packets are 1.75 to 2.00 which is more reasonable than most. I haven't ordered from them before.

Here is a link that might be useful: Tradewinds Fruit Vegetable seeds


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clipped on: 11.19.2010 at 08:44 am    last updated on: 11.19.2010 at 08:44 am

RE: Overwintering Hostas in pots (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: swmogardens on 10.15.2010 at 09:04 am in Ozarks Region Forum

I overwinter about 100 hosta in pots. I wait until the pot is frozen solid, then lay it on it's side on the north side of a building. Forget about them until April 1. I stack them several high. You can put some rat poison behind them if needed to control voles.


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clipped on: 10.15.2010 at 09:11 am    last updated on: 10.15.2010 at 09:11 am

RE: Double mandevilla picture, how to keep them in winter? NC (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: suetran1 on 07.17.2008 at 11:28 pm in Vines Forum

Thanks everyone for the tips
When I saw it at the farmer market in Raleigh,NC.
On the label is Mandevilla x amoena/Apolynaceae.
I bought it for $15 in May/08. I did not see they sell this anymore. I will try cutting too, if it works i will let you know.
I think I will keep it cool in my garage, my greenhouse will be too warm. I don't know if it needs to be rest in winter?


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clipped on: 10.06.2010 at 02:51 pm    last updated on: 10.06.2010 at 02:51 pm

RE: My First Winter - Bubble Wrap, heat...? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: birdwidow on 08.26.2008 at 11:10 am in Greenhouses & Garden Structures Forum

fuzzymoto: I just reread you post. Your GH is glass? Then if you can afford it, don't waste time or money on bubble wrap. It's effective, but not a permanent solution.

Instead, check out interior mount storm window panels. If fitted correctly and sealed against the existing frames with weatherstrip, they will give you near the equivalant of thermopanes and short of having a heavy clay pot tossed at one, will last as long as your GH and unlike the bubble, will allow you to use virtually any chemical, including the cheapest and most effective; bleach, to flush away any mildew or mold, both a continual issue for many GH's, especially those with misting systems.

Sheet glass is a lot cheaper than polycarb, and the aluminum framing used to make custom fit storm windows is also not very expensive, so the cost may be less than you think. It's worth checking out.

Whatever your decision, do a cost-benefit analysis for added R Value, necessary BTU's to maintain your desired temps., and fuel costs. If ever there was a time to if necessary, cut back on some discretionary spending and put that money up-front for future savings on energy costs, it's now.

When I was choosing a heater for my 12 X 16 freestanding Cross Country GH, I spent about $200.00 more to upgrade to a direct vent dual combustion nat. gas heater, expecting a 4 - 5 year payback in heating bill savings, but due to the huge rise in fuel costs since, the payback was realized in just 2 winters.

It cost another $400.00 extra in materials to heavily insulate the floor, base and perimiter of my GH, but there too, it's paid back, with reduced heat loss and the bonus of my being able to walk around out there in bare feet in sub-0 temps.

The warmer the floor, the warmer the air above it will be, and stay. That was my thought when we mounted the heater down near the floor instead of up near the ceiling. It blows hot air down, directly at the quarry tile floor, warming it considerably, whereupon the tiles hold the warmth and help toast my tootsies.

If you don't have an insulated floor, another warm foot friendly move is washable throw rugs. In deep winter, when it's really cold, to augument the heater, I lay thick cotton throw rugs down on the floor of my GH, all old ones from the house and cheapies from a local resale shop. When they get wet, if still otherwise clean, a few minutes in the dryer, and back down they go.

The real bottom line on the subject is that whatever you can do to insulate to keep the cold out and the heat in, will have a direct impact on the size of heater you will need, and the cost of operating it, now and in the future.

BTW: The better you insulate against cold, the easier it will be to keep it cool in summer, which is in fact, far more difficult and another virtue of ceiling fans.

If you have the space to mount them, set a pair of them at each long end of your GH, preferably under your roof vents. In winter, run them in opposite directions and they will circulate warm air in the closed space, top to bottom, end to end. In summer, set them to pull up, and they will pull the cooler air from the floor up and out through the roof vents, cooling the air in the middle in the process.


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clipped on: 10.04.2010 at 11:08 am    last updated on: 10.04.2010 at 11:08 am

RE: Soil Drench (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bluebonsai101 on 10.02.2010 at 09:54 pm in Greenhouses & Garden Structures Forum

While I do not have a GH I do put a couple hundred plants under MH lights for the winter. I use two Bayer products before I bring them in for the winter. I use Bayer Tree and Shrub (or something like that) that has imidacloprid in it....the one I can buy is 1.47% and I use 2 TBSP/Gal for a soil drench and a leaf spray. This is great for bugs like Mealies, etc. I use this on all my plants which include various Amaryllids from South America and South Africa as well as my various caudiciforms. I also use the 3 in 1 product from bayer that not only has imidacloprid as well as other things like a miticide and a fungicide. I can only find this as a spray so it wastes a ton. By doing this I never have any bugs or mites over the winter. Best of luck :o) Dan


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clipped on: 10.03.2010 at 06:57 pm    last updated on: 10.03.2010 at 06:57 pm

Cherokee Trail of Tears Pole Beans

posted by: gldno1 on 09.28.2010 at 05:10 pm in Ozarks Region Forum

Helen, did you grow any of these this year?

I saved seeds from the ones you sent me last year and planted them at the base of the Reid's Yellow Dent Corn.
They were planted late and are just now producing. I have picked 3 bowls of them so far. They are becoming my favorite bean. They are never tough at any stage and are very flavorful.

Thanks for sending me those seeds that started it all!

From Bouquets

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clipped on: 10.03.2010 at 06:55 pm    last updated on: 10.03.2010 at 06:55 pm