Clippings by squirrelheaven

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RE: A question for those of you that have woven wood shades... (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: cindyloowoo on 02.19.2007 at 04:41 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Here is my long winded answer. I'll try to share my expeience with you to save you some time.

What brand of shades are you looking at? I think each brand is slightly different. I ordered a woven wood roman shade for my dining room from American Blind and Wallpaper. (I ordered the "American Brand" which turned out to be a Hunter Douglas Provenance shade.) It came with mounting brackets that were L shaped, but I had to request ceiling mount brackets which were flat because I had to mount it to the top of my window frame. The brackets have a screw like projection that slides through slits in the headrail and then is attached with a wing nut. My 65" wide x 70" long shade required 3 brackets - each using three screws.

I'm also considering puting a shade like this on my single steel 15 lite french door in my kitchen. I don't like the way the shade looks in my dining room so I thought I would move it into the kitchen and get another shade for my single french door. The shade I have is an "inside mount" shade and the headrail is very deep - over 3". I just wonder if a 3" deep headrail will protrude too much from the door. I think the headrail is so deep because I ordered the "easyrise" option so I wouldn't have a long cord hanging down. I will need an "outside mount" shade for the door. For an outside mount shade, they add another valance strip to the sides of the headrail to conceal the pulley mechanism. I don't think ready made shades will have this added piece on the valance. I have some inexpensive woven wood shades from JC Penney's in another room and the headrail is much slimmer (maybe under two inches). The instructions say it can be mounted inside or outside, but unless you have a valance covering up the top of the shade, you would see the pulley hardware from the side of the shade.

There is a big difference in price and in quality of the shades. Depends what you are looking for.

Here are some links that may be helpful. Click on the installation instructions and you will see exactly what is involved.

Here is what the JCPenney shade looks like behind the valance. You can see the mounting bracket and wing nut.
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And a full view of the JC Penney shades.
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Here is what the inside mount Hunter Douglas shade looks like.
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Here is a link that might be useful: Hunter Douglas Provenance Woven Wood Shades

NOTES:

install tips
clipped on: 02.19.2007 at 07:20 pm    last updated on: 02.19.2007 at 07:20 pm

RE: We need your expert opinions (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: patricia43 on 02.17.2007 at 06:45 pm in Home Decorating Forum

'It does look dated, with so much of it, but different parts of the country decorate differently :)'

(INSERT PUZZLED LOOK). Yes, I have heard it said that southerers grow cornfields in our houses. What was I thinking! :-)

If this was my house, I would NOT take the wallpaper down. A good painter can come in there and sand the seams of the wallpaper, spackle it and sand it, spackle and sand it, and paint over it, and no one will ever know until they start to "repaint."

NOTES:

painting over wallpaper ... oil based primer also recommended to keep it from bubbling when painting
clipped on: 02.19.2007 at 05:03 am    last updated on: 02.19.2007 at 05:03 am

RE: Stupid South Beach Diet Pop-Up (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: hi2all on 02.18.2007 at 06:49 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I use Firefox and Spy Bot and have never seen the ads you all are talking about. (Hope I didn't just jinx myself.)

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.18.2007 at 07:40 pm    last updated on: 02.18.2007 at 07:40 pm

RE: Stupid South Beach Diet Pop-Up (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: threedgrad on 02.18.2007 at 06:02 pm in Home Decorating Forum

did you run the program? Plus get spyblaster and run that. Restart computer also. Go into internet explorer, tools, internet options, privacy. Make sure you are at least medium security and the block popups box is checked.

NOTES:

along with SpyBot
clipped on: 02.18.2007 at 07:39 pm    last updated on: 02.18.2007 at 07:39 pm

RE: We need your expert opinions (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: lorinscott_1 on 02.18.2007 at 07:20 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Definately remove the wallpaper if you don't have plans to move immediately....and you can spray the walls prior to working on them with fabric softener and water. Steam wouldn't hurt, either. I know that painting over the paper saves some work but is a royal PITA to anyone trying to remove it....not a nice thing to do.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.18.2007 at 07:35 pm    last updated on: 02.18.2007 at 07:35 pm

RE: Need help with master bedroom windows (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: les917 on 01.08.2007 at 12:12 am in Home Decorating Forum

Are the blinds white on the outside? Could they be reversed so that the white outside would be on the bedroom side?

I see a box pleated valanced in white, edged in three black stripes, just like the bedding. Clean and simple.

If the blinds were old, and you had nothing to lose, I would suggest getting some paint from Design Master - it is meant to be used on fresh and fabric flowers, stays soft and doesn't crack. I would paint the blinds silver/grey.

NOTES:

paint technique
clipped on: 02.17.2007 at 11:58 pm    last updated on: 02.17.2007 at 11:58 pm

RE: thicken paint to smooth walls a bit? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: amity on 02.13.2007 at 06:38 pm in Home Decorating Forum

How about getting yourself a bucket of wall joint compound (less than 10 bucks), a wide, flat-edged trowel and applying the compound lightly in random fashion on the wall.
Random fashion will look like it was a wall textured on purpose.

Then put on a quick, light coat of primer, let it dry, then paint.

I used this method as a temporary fix about 20 years ago and liked it so much I never changed the on-purpose texture. I've changed the paint over the years but the light texture went from cottage country to old world and now back to clean country. Fit right in with every style.

Make sure if you have some wallpaper left on that wall that you secure it by applying a coat of oil-based primer over top. It will keep the wallpaper from bubbling when applying the compound and paint.

NOTES:

painting tip ... to secure wallp before painting over.
clipped on: 02.15.2007 at 12:25 am    last updated on: 02.15.2007 at 12:25 am

RE: Make your own water feature? (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: threedgrad on 02.11.2007 at 03:35 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Well, my modest water feature is complete. I had to make things work to create the final project. For instance, I have two cheap empty black plastic planters, one upside down inside the other. The pump sits inside the upside down one with its tube sticking up the bottom drain hole. The pump's cord runs out the bottom hole with a bunch of plumber's putty (Home Depot - $1.97)sealing the pot. I cut about 4" off the top of the larger plastic piece to lower it. On top of that I put a microwave plastic shelf which has holes in it (this piece was made to create a shelf inside the microwave so you can cook 2 things at the same time). Then I stuffed black plastic along the sides since this microwave shelf was too small to cover entire inside. Covering it all are large Mexican beach pebbles (the rocks were the most expensive item). I still have to work on hiding the electric cords.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions!

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NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.11.2007 at 08:25 pm    last updated on: 02.11.2007 at 08:25 pm

RE: Make your own water feature? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: allison0704 on 02.07.2007 at 09:54 pm in Home Decorating Forum

More than likely you won't be able to keep the fountain that high - the wind will blow or the water will just splash out of the container.

With an electrical pump, if the water gets low the pump burns up. They do not turn off automatically.

I had a friend buy a solar fountain and she loved it for about a month. Even though she had full sun, it didn't run as much as she thought it would. Didn't last long either.

NOTES:

solar
clipped on: 02.11.2007 at 08:22 pm    last updated on: 02.11.2007 at 08:22 pm

RE: Make your own water feature? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: threedgrad on 02.07.2007 at 08:59 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I found a solar water pump which will work so then I do not have to worry about running any cord out the bottom.. All I need to do is seal the hole and get some nice looking rocks to fill the pot so I do not need a lot of water. (I may have kept the rubber plug that came with these planters - I will have to check.) Here in Phoenix we have plenty of sun for this to work - it never would have worked in WI.

Here is a link that might be useful: Water pump

NOTES:

solar pump
clipped on: 02.11.2007 at 08:18 pm    last updated on: 02.11.2007 at 08:18 pm

RE: Make your own water feature? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: postum on 02.07.2007 at 05:31 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Hi - I'm working on one right now! My big pond sprang a leak and it is just too much trouble to keep up. I found two great books on container ponds at the library:

"Quick & easy container water gardens : simple-to-make water features and fountains for indoor and outdoor gardens" by Philip Swindells

"Water gardening in containers : small ponds, indoors & out" by Helen Nash.

Both recommend using plumber's putty for the holes. Generally to get a tight seal you have to run the cord right out of the pot, rather than through the bottom (though it is certainly worth a try.) There are various sealants - some are Varathane spray, and UGL multipurpose sealant. I'd ask at the hardware store what they recommend.

Have you checked out the Ponds forum? Lots of information there.

Also, a good place for plants is http://aquaticplantdepot.com/.

Good luck!

NOTES:

supplies
clipped on: 02.11.2007 at 08:17 pm    last updated on: 02.11.2007 at 08:17 pm

RE: Make your own water feature? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: allison0704 on 02.06.2007 at 05:43 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I made a fountain out of a metal planter. We poked a hole in the backside since I didn't want the cord going over. We took a clear epoxy and went around the hole/cord to fill in. Before adding the cord, I sprayed the inside of the metal container with spray rubber. I bought it at the hardware store and it's sold to spray on the floorboard of pickup trucks (that don't come with carpet). I used the entire can, probably six layers. I had the fountain 7 years and only redid the rubber once and the pump twice.

I sat the pump on top of a stack of bricks down in the fountain so the bubbling would occur on top of the water, kept it turned down pretty low and put in some plants. I could run it most of the winter without it freezing up.

Sorry the picture is so small - picture of picture. The fountain is between bench and pink impatiens.

Since terracotta doesn't hold water, it seeps thru the sides, won't you have to spray the interior?

NOTES:

supplies
clipped on: 02.11.2007 at 08:15 pm    last updated on: 02.11.2007 at 08:16 pm

RE: Make your own water feature? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: moonshadow on 02.06.2007 at 05:12 pm in Home Decorating Forum

If you can stop at a nursery/garden center that does water gardening, they are a tremendous help. I have a pond in my backyard, used to have a 'natural' rock waterfall, but then changed to preformed because my pooch would not quite shifting rocks around. There's a black foam sealant that water gardener's use (can't think of the name of it, think I've seen it at Lowe's garden center, too) to fill in gaps in rocks/cracks, etc. to direct water flow. No need to buy a bunch of fancy stuff, I've been water gardening for years, you can easily rig up just about anything you need. Be careful of leaks, even slow ones, if it drains over time to the point your pump is no longer submerged it will burn up the motor. (I also have to be very careful and watch for leaks, or drips that want to stray outside the pond, because I have fish as well.) As annz mentioned and linked to, plumber's epoxy is outstanding for filling small areas or leaks. I've used it in several small spots. Easy to use, dries hard and fast (gray) and long lasting. You can buy tubing much less expensive at hardware stores than pond stores (get the internal diameter that matches your pump connections). If you need connectors, or are rigging up a waterfall, I've taken sketches into sears or other hardware, they set me up with PVC connectors for tubing, etc. (only about .49 each).

NOTES:

supplies
clipped on: 02.11.2007 at 08:14 pm    last updated on: 02.11.2007 at 08:14 pm

RE: Make your own water feature? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: lorinscott_1 on 02.06.2007 at 12:50 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Glad you're keeping warm in AZ, Eileen. There's lots of folks who've made fountains from pottery jugs....check out the boards in Cottage Gardens and Garden Accoutrements here. My dh made a fountain in our backyard this past summer....we used that foam sealant from Great Stuff, recommended on those boards. Don't forget to post pictures of your fountain when you're done!
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NOTES:

sealant
clipped on: 02.11.2007 at 08:12 pm    last updated on: 02.11.2007 at 08:12 pm

RE: Advice on dealing with fireplace store today (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: dgmarie on 02.02.2007 at 10:28 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Our furnance oil-canned. It would go KABOOM when it went on and off. Solution? We took some metal strapping and wrapped the large duct to prevent this from happening. Result? no more noise. A $5 fix and two galvinized screws. I hope yours is as easy! I hated that noise, too!

NOTES:

gas fp backfire
clipped on: 02.11.2007 at 06:22 pm    last updated on: 02.11.2007 at 06:23 pm

RE: What kind of foam do I want for my headboard? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: spanky_md on 02.09.2007 at 02:03 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I have always pieced together foam when I need bigger slabs. I use 3M spray adhesive, which works great. But finding it in the right size to begin with is easiest, of course!

I wouldn't count on latex foam being OK as long as it was covered. It does smell a bit, even under fabric.

You can wrap the fabric around 2" thick foam. What I do in cases like this is to cut the foam a bit bigger than the frame or backing and then trim away some of the back edge of it with scissors so that it has a smoother taper when wrapped around under the fabric.

I made a graphic to show what I mean, since it may be hard to visualize. The green is the foam, the tan is the backing and the red is the fabric mushing down the foam!

You don't have to make the cut really smooth and even since the top surface will still be smooth, and it gets mushed down enough that any uneveness underneath won't matter. A serrated bread knife works well if you don't like using the scissors. Scissors wear my hand out faster than a knife when cutting foam but they're easier for accuracy.

I thought Foamorder.com used to have a glossary of terms or at least explanations of them somewhere in the descriptions but I can't find it now! We ordered a king size foam mattress with a topper a couple of years ago and got the wrong thing twice. We ended up sending it all back for a total refund. They were very nice, just extremely slow and very disorganized and inattentive! Also, their idea of how soft or firm a mattress was did not even come close to how I would describe it.

Vacuum-packing a king mattress at home was a trip and a half, I must say.

But I think if you just order something simple, they'd probably be OK. (In case you or anyone else is considering them.)

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.10.2007 at 03:32 am    last updated on: 02.10.2007 at 03:33 am

Do these curtains look like bedroom curtains to you (pics)

posted by: alex2004 on 02.07.2007 at 09:54 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I made these curtains for my family room. But some people tell me that they are more appropriate for a bedroom. I would like to hear your opioions. I don't have a defined style for my FR yet. The curtains are one of the first things I invest in this room. I will try to make other pieces match the curtains. I will need to find a TV console or cabinet. What would you suggest to go along with these curtains.



NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.07.2007 at 11:59 pm    last updated on: 02.08.2007 at 12:00 am

To answer ambitious beginner (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: alex2004 on 02.07.2007 at 11:00 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I used information from two patterns: Vogue V7983 and McCall's M4802.I did not use pleat tape, because I thought it would not be flexible if I need to make some minor adjustments. I just made my own pleats: 6" in the pleats and 4" between the pleats. I bought the fabric from Calico Corners, 20 yds for the face fabric, and 15 yds for lining. I did use flannel interlining (20yds).
This is also my first time making drapes. It is not that hard if you are comfortable with sewing. You just have to be very careful with your measurements and calculation.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.07.2007 at 11:59 pm    last updated on: 02.07.2007 at 11:59 pm

Need your opinion....do I sew another?

posted by: mary_lu on 02.03.2007 at 05:11 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Last weekend we hung all the pictures and stuff back on the walls in the sitting room. I had previously finally found sheers that I liked and thought that would be all I would do.

However once everything was back on the walls, I really needed something dark at the top of the windows (as was previously suggested here...)to anchor the windows. As it is so cold out today, I got the sewing machine out and sewed this valance. Have enough material to do another for the other window, but don't want to waste my time if everyone doesn't think it works.
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The colors in the close-up are somewhat washed out due to the flash.
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clipped on: 02.04.2007 at 01:57 am    last updated on: 02.04.2007 at 01:58 am

RE: Photoshopian help for house color please... (Follow-Up #54)

posted by: patricia43 on 02.03.2007 at 09:00 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Squirrel, do not know what area you are in but I start around Winter Solstice. cat and dog at my feet, so tying with erros, etc.

It seems to be a good start date for any zones. Put jugs about 1/2 with soil, I just use potting soil mixed with garden soil, half and half. I cut the jugs in half before starting, sew the seeds and set them on a picnic table so they get all the sun, rain, coat, heat, etc. Put the covers back over them so they get air but not too much harsh weather. If it does not rain for a few days I water them gently but otherwise, just let mother nature handle them. You will get so addicted to this, you will have to give part of your plants away. Use old tv dinner trays, with lids, take-out trays with covers like Cracker Barrel, Out back, Longhorn and save the lids. Put dirt/soil in them, put the lids back on with holes punched in them. I set mine on the patio with the pergola overhead, and neighbor puts hers on a picnic table out in the garden. It's alot of fun and you have way more plants than you will ever need. They are ready when everyone else is shopping at the big box stores and you have a better variety adn spend less money.

NOTES:

seeding during winter w/ milk jugs
clipped on: 02.04.2007 at 12:40 am    last updated on: 02.04.2007 at 12:40 am

RE: Down to the wire- BM Honeywheat or Golden Honey? (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: avajen on 01.23.2007 at 01:08 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Okay verysleepy, I think I have the color for you! I had my mind set on the Golden Honey, saw it in a House Beautiful mag and called the decorater. She said you can't lose with this color, and she uses it in every home she does, all her clients love it. I tried a big swatch of it, while I too loved it, I was a little scared. What I did is mixed 50% Golden Honey with 50% Philadelphia Cream, both are samples, and the color is just a fantastic gold! Still the golden honey I wanted but I little toned down. You've got to try it. I had BM mix a quart of it just to make sure it turned out the same and the 2 samples I mixed, and to a tee it's the same.

Painters should be here next week. I'm just thrilled.

Rochelle

NOTES:

gold paint
clipped on: 02.03.2007 at 01:31 am    last updated on: 02.03.2007 at 01:32 am

RE: Not sure about this color in kitchen (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: athomewith3 on 01.31.2007 at 01:23 am in Home Decorating Forum

Thanks squirrelheaven!! The paint colors are restoration hardware's Butter Yellow and long story on the green in the kitchen.......it is 1/4 of Carraway from Behr paints. Carraway in it's original color is a VERY dark green and at the time i was trying to go monochromatic with that and to keep in the same family just had home depot just use 1/4 of the formula.

I just found this site and it looks like you are the photoshop specialist around here. I may ask you some favors as i am trying to decorate a couple rooms in my house. By the way, how do i show a picture directly to my post without having people click on the photobucket link??? THanks!!

NOTES:

soft green paint formula
clipped on: 01.31.2007 at 01:50 am    last updated on: 01.31.2007 at 01:50 am

RE: Did I make an mistake at antique mall? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: moonshadow on 01.28.2007 at 10:41 am in Home Decorating Forum

Hi paige, long time since I've seen you around these parts! :)
I don't think you made a mistake either. So much 'high end' furniture is imported these days, it pays to get vintage or antique. I'm betting it's very well constructed and made of good quality hardwoods that will last. So a mahogany dining table for $235 is not bad (you'd pay that for an end table in antique stores around me). And no doubt the talented members here can help you find a good chair style you like. With dining sets, the older they are the harder it is to get complete sets, because chairs are usually the first pieces to develop issues, break, etc. from use. Regardless of whether it's vintage or a true antique, if it suits your needs so ideally and you like it, it's a great buy!

When you go pick it up, how about posting a photo? (If the finish needs a little touch up, Restore-A-Finish will do wonders. If you need/want details on how to use it, let me know, I'll post back. Have before after/photos of a vintage cherry hutch I used it on, made a visible difference.)

NOTES:

restore-a-finish
clipped on: 01.28.2007 at 11:43 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2007 at 11:44 pm

RE: Painting Baby's Nursery - Please Help! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: returnqueen on 01.26.2007 at 10:59 pm in Home Decorating Forum

My girl's bedroom is done in Benjamin More Butter. I think it is a very nice soft yellow. My girls have quilts with similar colors and I just love their room. I really like your bedding choice. Good Luck!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.27.2007 at 06:33 pm    last updated on: 01.27.2007 at 06:33 pm

RE: Painting Baby's Nursery - Please Help! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: flnative on 01.26.2007 at 10:34 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I have had good luck with BM Moonlight and Yellow freeze. Both are on the same color stick found in their historical colors. Yellow freeze is so soft that it sometimes appears more of a creamy color in bright sunlight. Moonlight is still very comforting to me but is brighter.
Yellows are hard to find. It took me some doing to find one that wasn't school bus yellow! We painted our sons nursery in Moonlight and he has always been the best sleeper.

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clipped on: 01.27.2007 at 06:32 pm    last updated on: 01.27.2007 at 06:32 pm

RE: Which colors are non-stimulating? For a child with SID? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: teeda_2006 on 01.25.2007 at 04:20 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Hi,I'm not an expert in color theory but I am an early childhood behavior specialist and work with lots of kids with S.I. issues and autism. We're actually designing two sensory rooms in our program right now. Green and blue are both colors that are calming to children (muted shades). In addition to the wall color, be sure not introduce lots of strong contrast in the room--i.e., have the window treatments match the wall color, etc. Be really careful with black furniture/picture frames because they introduce a lot of contrast. Also be sure to have lots of neutral elements in the space (beige/tans, etc.) Keep the room as uncluttered as possible. If you choose to keep toys in his room (which is sometimes a problem) put them in a cabinet that you can close or drape with fabric. Keep the lighting soft and even (no flourescent lights). Be sure the room temperature is comfortable (not too hot or cold). Some kids with S.I.D issues like to sleep in beds that are lower to the ground, so think about perhaps a low platform bed. Don't put a television in the room. Many kids with S.I. find white noise soothing--you can purchase a small white noise machine or use a fan (although some children do get stimulated by the turning blades of a fan). Keep the textures soft. Heavy drapes with soften noise in the room. Good luck!

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clipped on: 01.26.2007 at 12:12 am    last updated on: 01.26.2007 at 12:12 am

RE: Thoughts on this sofa style, please??? (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: ctremodler on 01.24.2007 at 10:51 am in Home Decorating Forum

The last sofa I bought was a compromise on price and it has turned out to not be a bargain. In fairness though, if I had paid more for similar features I doubt it would have held up very well either. Here is what I have learned...

Pillows attached to the back of the sofa are not a good choice. They can't be rotated and end up sagging.

Box cushions are a must on the seat. Our current sofa has a piping run through the center with pleats in the corners. Hopefully you can picture that. The covers shift around on the cushions and end up skewed.

I will also be very leery of ever buying a 2 cushion sofa again for a lounge around type room, especially if you have kids--especially if those kids are teen boys. No one wants to get stuck sitting in the crack and as they lounge on the couch to watch TV or read, their backside ends up in the crack area making the cusions wear in that area.

I would also really check out what the cushions are made of. I think those with springs in them will hold up better than just foam--but that might also depend upon the quality of the foam.

We looked at Thomasville a couple of weeks ago and I was impressed with their spring system. It was not 8 way hand tied--the sales person called it something else, but it was a coil spring system rather than a serpentine spring system.

I guess bottom line my next couch is going to be one that I love the bones so I can have it reupholstered when it needs a face lift rather than put to the curb.

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clipped on: 01.24.2007 at 02:41 pm    last updated on: 01.24.2007 at 02:42 pm

RE: Cattknap: (Follow-Up #65)

posted by: cattknap on 01.22.2007 at 08:40 am in Home Decorating Forum

Hi Claire - how are you doing? I bought the bunny at Roger's Garden in Newport Beach - have you been there? We should plan a trip at Easter time - it is so beautiful there then.

Now about that green - for years I have thought it was Laura Ashley #4 - we even repainted the living room 2 years ago and I bought the paint, LOL...thought for sure it was #4....a couple of days ago we took all the art down that was hung above the fireplace and fixed all the nail holes and repainted (just got a couple of great old dog pictures that we hung there). Well much to my surprise, it is Olive #3 not 4 and I have had so many people ask me what color it is - I'm ashamed now, LOL.

Freckles - The front door is Benjamen Moore Cottage Red semi-gloss. We repainted the door black last week....I like to decorate the door and black gives me a completely neutral palette although I did like the red door too.

NOTES:

paint colors
clipped on: 01.22.2007 at 11:34 am    last updated on: 01.22.2007 at 11:35 am

RE: Thoughts on this sofa style, please??? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: threedgrad on 01.20.2007 at 10:16 am in Home Decorating Forum

If it is not 8 way hand tied - which it is not - the sofa will fall apart much sooner than a sofa with a better construction. Hardwood frame, glued and screwed joints and 8 way hand tied springs are the construction terms to look for in a quality sofa. But if you don't need a sofa to last a long time then this type of construction might work for you.

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clipped on: 01.20.2007 at 04:21 pm    last updated on: 01.20.2007 at 04:21 pm

RE: Do I change out all my brass for stainless/nickel??? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: johnmari on 01.19.2007 at 01:45 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I agree that you can mix metals if you like, especially if the rooms are separate rather than one big space.

FWIW, I painted the cheesetastic cheap brass doorknobs and hinges in my MBR - they look great and have been holding up well. I roughed up the finish with fine sandpaper (I used the soft, flexible 3M sanding sponges - the thin ones, not the fat rectangles - for ease of handling), wiped them thoroughly to remove all the dust, primed with a spray primer and put on two coats of spray paint. I had used dark brown in preparation to do sort of an ORB kind of finish on top but the brown looked so good all by itself and matched my ceiling fan perfectly so I left it. It would have cost about $200 to replace all the knobs and hinges just for the MBR (three little closets, entry and bath) even buying the cheapest available ORB stuff, but the sanding sponges (which are washable and reusable), primer, and paint cost less than $15 and I have plenty of primer and paint left over.

Both Rustoleum and Krylon make brushed/matte nickel finish spray paints - I bought some at Lowes - and you can get a stainless-steel finish paint at auto supply shops.

I like real solid brass that isn't lacquered but allowed to patinate, very much so, but the blindingly bright-yellow stuff with the shiny lacquer on it just looks a bit garish to me - and my house is loaded with it, since it was built in 1993.

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RE: Rustic Wooden Bowls (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: lkplatow on 01.16.2007 at 11:23 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Have you ever been here - all kinds of great oddball rustic stuff and fairly reasonable prices too, for the antique world....

Here is a link that might be useful: Great Stuff By Paul

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RE: Rustic Wooden Bowls (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: jejvtr on 01.16.2007 at 12:14 pm in Home Decorating Forum

try this link

Here is a link that might be useful: ebay vintage bowls

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RE: Rustic Wooden Bowls (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: auntjen on 01.16.2007 at 10:51 am in Home Decorating Forum

Not sure what type you're looking for, but I love these rustic Mexican dough bowls.

Here is a link that might be useful: batea

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RE: Rustic Wooden Bowls (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: moonshadow on 01.16.2007 at 08:53 am in Home Decorating Forum

If you really want to save a buck, and don't need the real deal, Target has some, both boat shaped and round, that are generally painted. Easy enough to age and distress yourself with some sandpaper. Once you've sanded off their paint, take a tube of artist's oil in Burnt Umber (a dk chocolate), thin it with mineral spirits (1 part paint to 4 parts spirits). You can mix it on a wax-coated paper plate with a plastic knife or popsicle stick. Take an old t-shirt type rag, gently dab in the Burnt Umber 'wash' and rub here and there on the piece. Too much, just wipe off (use straight spirits lightly if needed). Too little B Umber, just add more. Just a matter of playing with it till you get the effect you want. You could do a very light wash over the entire piece, then go back and darken certain areas. Let it dry a good couple days before putting into use.

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RE: Rustic Wooden Bowls (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: sweets98 on 01.16.2007 at 08:13 am in Home Decorating Forum

What are you looking for? If you're looking for antique ones, keep looking and eventually you'll find one that seems like the right price for you.

If you're looking at the ones that are painted to look old, I can help you with that....I find bowls at the Thrift store and just paint a solid color on them. If you want something painted on it, do that. Then you take sand paper and sand the edges a bit here. To make it look really old and worn and dirty, wipe the bowl with stain and let dry. Now you have an "old" bowl.

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RE: Life of Appliances _ Link & if any comments on the accuracy o (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: johnmari on 01.17.2007 at 03:03 am in Home Decorating Forum

Slow down. Breathe. There are spray paints that emulate stainless steel. Go to an auto supply store like PepBoys or AutoZone. Spray-paint the front of the dishwasher and use it until it completely dies, during which time you research dishwashers without being in such a panic! There's a rubbery goo available at hardware stores that you can dab on the worn spots on the racks that are leaving rust marks on your plates. $10 in supplies can buy you a few months to RELAX a little bit. I wouldn't waste the money on the fancy SS cover for the old DW.

"his dishwashers last between 3 - 5 years due to the use by his family of 5 and not cleaning the dishes before putting them in the dishwasher."

I gotta wonder if he's buying reeeally bottom-end dishwashers, because most dishwashers nowadays have built-in macerators that will grind up pretty much anything short of bones, shells, celery strings, and suchlike - pretty much anything you wouldn't put down a disposal. We roughly scrape dishes before they go in the dishwasher but we never rinse. I think it's a waste of time, energy (mine) and water to wash the dishes before washing the dishes! If something's really gummed-on (baked-on lasagna residue, for example), it gets soaked until it can be scraped before putting in the machine. Both the families who lived here before us were large so the dw got a lot more use than we give it! Another potential explanation is that the family may be sloppy about loading the dishwasher, because there are efficient and inefficient ways of loading the racks to actually get things clean. Does he ever clean the dishwashers, or does he just replace them when they don't work quite as well as they used to? Maybe he should buy the extended warranties, it's probably cheaper to add 4 years onto the manufacturer's usual 1 year than to buy a new dishwasher every 5 years!

As for lifespan... I replaced an 11yo fridge (bottom of the barrel) when we moved into this house in 2004 because it was full of mouse nests in the compressor compartment and the stench was unreal. The repairman said there was no chance of getting it clean and running properly without pretty much rebuilding it, and we'd be better off getting a new Energy Star fridge that would lower the electric bills quite a bit as well. At the same time I had the also 11yo and also bottom of the barrel Tappan gas range looked at - he said it would cost as much just to buy all the parts to fix it completely as it would to buy a comparable stove, which can be had for about $299 these days. We hung onto it for 3 more miserable years (it was horrible to cook with) and finally replaced it last month. We Freecycled the old one out with the caveat that it would need tinkering to work well, but the person who took it was thrilled and said it was better than what he had. I hope to get a couple more years out of the dishwasher, which is now 14yo - this spring I'll probably get a repairperson out to give it a "tune-up". It gets probably 90% of the dishes clean, sometimes we have to put something back in or wash it by hand, but most of the time when it misses cleaning something it's user error. Oh, and I was told to use UNsweetened lemonade mix (storebrand koolaid, basically) rather than Tang - it's usually cheaper and I was told that the lack of sugar contributed something that I can't remember at almost 3am. :-) One packet in the detergent cup, no detergent.

mcgillicuddy, on the one hand it's indeed very nice to use an appliance as long as possible, and if someone's replacing a perfectly good appliance simply due to aesthetics they should make an effort to find a new home for their functioning old one. (Freecycle is a great option.) OTOH, is it a good idea to keep using a major energy hog of an appliance when there are reasonably priced appliances (if one doesn't demand every bell and whistle on the planet, of course) available that are very energy efficient? Unless you're on 100% solar, wind, or unsupplemented hydro, electricity doesn't come out of nowhere and oughtn't be wasted. Natural gas and LP should also be used efficiently IMO, which particularly means trying for water-using appliances that are as efficient as possible because of the water heating - as well as saving water itself.

I would rather see as much recycling as possible of the components of the old carcasses - if nothing else there's usually quite a bit of steel in an old stove or fridge - and new appliances built with an eye to the end of their lifespan, so that as little as possible of the appliance ends up in a landfill. I do think it's fantastic that there are people who are taking out the guts of those great old appliances and putting in modern innards that are safer and more energy efficient, although I think it'll always be a tiny niche market because the end result is SO expensive.

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RE: Photoshoppers- Can you PLEEEEASE turn my kitchen cabs white? (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: jae_tn on 01.14.2007 at 03:25 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Reading Patches post, I used the Zinser 123 also. Thought it might be worth mentioning, my DIL painted my oak vanity in the PW black and it looks wonderful. She ran a candle along the edges and randomly on the flat parts before painting and then sanded after the paint dried. It removed where the wax had been and gave it a great aged look.

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RE: Photoshoppers- Can you PLEEEEASE turn my kitchen cabs white? (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: jae_tn on 01.14.2007 at 08:53 am in Home Decorating Forum

I washed the cabinets then used one coat of primer (BIN I think) then painted them with Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo. The color I used was Cameo White but you can use any white that you like. My color was chosen because I thought I wanted just a painted look and I liked the creamier white with my tiles. The doors were removed and I did 2 coats but the paint dries very quickly so I worked on 4-5 at a time then hung them back up. They only took a couple of days to paint. I painted them in July and lived with them without glaze until after Thanksgiving. Just the paint was better than the oak and I procrastinated (after I decided to use the glaze) because I didn't want to remove the doors again.... However, I played around with the glaze without removing them and it worked great! I used a water-based glaze from Lowes (comes in a plastic jug in several colors) American Tradition Faux Translucent and the color I chose is Raw Umber. I used a cheap .99 brush and just barely put glaze on it. I didn't use a cloth to remove the glaze, rather used the brush to apply it as lightly as I wanted. It is workable for at least 15-20 minutes so you can keep going over it and drag it around until you have the look you want. Mine is very lightly covered but did go into the grain (which I originally didn't think I wanted but now love). The directons say to wait 30 days for it to cure before washing but I discovered on New Year's Day that it would wash off with not much effort! So, I put a coat of Minwax Polycrylic which is also waterbased, and again did not remove the doors. The glazing took maybe 4-5 hours including breaks, and the Minwax only a couple of hours. I am glad that I did the polycrylic since the glaze only left them feeling rough and a bit lifeless in retrospect. It was still better than oak.....lol. Someday I might put another coat of poly on just because I missed a spot or two due to the lighting making it difficult to see where I hit and where I missed! But it looks fine and is washable with only one.

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RE: buffalotina ... or anyone??? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: phyl345 on 01.07.2007 at 01:28 pm in Home Decorating Forum

i bought mine at menards ... it is VERY nice...phyl

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nice quality smooth beadboard paneling
clipped on: 01.08.2007 at 05:44 pm    last updated on: 01.08.2007 at 05:44 pm

RE: buffalotina ... or anyone??? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: johnmari on 01.08.2007 at 04:13 am in Home Decorating Forum

Tina used Nantucket Beadboard, which is a MDF product. IIRC she used the panels. I used PGM beadboard planks in my bathroom - they came in 8' lengths and I cut them in half for the wainscot. (Planks are actually much easier than sheets if the walls are irregular and/or out of square, because you can fudge each individual board by the slightest trace to keep the whole appearance straight.) PGM has a preprimed fiberboard version called "Cape Cod Plank", but even the plain unfinished pine version is quite smooth - we had purchased that first but didn't like the way it stained up (actually, it stained pretty nicely, but all the trim was way off) so we splurged on the oak instead (yum). The thin 1/4" type I used was best for putting over drywall, the thick 3/4" beadboard that most lumberyards have is best for going over bare studs using furring strips and nails. It was just glued on with construction adhesive, every half-dozen or so boards the carpenter put a few nails through the tongue to secure the group to the wall. We finish-sanded it with a little palm sander after it was installed, which took almost no time at all, before staining and varnishing it. I bought it at Home Depot but it's also available through many lumberyards.

As to whether beadboard on an entire wall would look good in a bedroom or not, that depends entirely on the architecture and the furnishings. I disagree completely that it would look like 1960s paneling if the surroundings are appropriate for the product - if it's a ranch-type house with horizontal aluminum windows with no trim and slab doors, then it could potentially look like 1960s paneling unless those other issues are addressed, but in an old-fashioned cottage or a modest Victorian-type with generous trim on the doors and windows and furniture consistent with the style, it would look lovely and charming. It's particularly pretty for a beach-cottage look. Quite a few of my books on bungalow, Victorian, and vintage-cottage decor feature beadboard walls - in times past, it was a common wall treatment in private areas of modest homes because it was cheaper than plastering, or in seaside areas where plaster was liable to get damp (thus the beach-cottage look). We've just gotten used to seeing it only on a wainscot. A 3" or 4" wide V-groove is also much more likely to look "panelingish" than a true beaded style in a 1 1/2" or 2" board width (even if it's not real boards).

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RE: Is this nuts or a logical way to think about color (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: amysrq on 01.04.2007 at 06:10 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I usually make the "macro" choice in an analytical way...that is, I think about what color I need for the room...the feeling I am looking for or the room elements I am trying to coordinate with (fabric and floors.) For instance, I knew I needed a restful but uplifting green in the MBR and a neutral tan, cozy with no undertones, in the LR. Then I put up the swatches of all the options within that color family to narrow it down.

You are looking at things for your room with a much broader perspective. That's good because you have fewer limits. Once I decided on the neutral tan for my LR, I had a heck of a time picking just the right one. In your situation, you can fall in love with a particular color, with fewer constraints, and be happy.

I imagine that if you put up these canvases, you'll find yourself gravitating to a particular color. That will likely be a good choice for your room.

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RE: Is this nuts or a logical way to think about color (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: homemaker on 01.04.2007 at 06:24 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I saved this post a long time ago, because it describes better than I ever could, how to choose a paint colour.

RE: Dining Room Paint colors
Posted by: lazygardens (My Page) on Thu, Dec 18, 03 at 7:49

Don't look at paint chips in isolation. Your furniture and carpet will change the apparent color of the chips.
Don't pick colors in the store - pick colors in the house, in the room you are painting.

1. Go get a whole bunch of chips - especially the ones that are large single-color chips. Take one of EVERYTHING. Make absolutely no judgements about the color in the store.

2. If you have any strips, cut them apart into single colors.

3. Shuffle them thoroughly.

4. Take a few of them and scatter them on the main thing you want them to go with (carpet, counter, sofa, wood, sheets, tile, whatever). Some will look really bad ... put them in the reject pile.

5. Do this for all the colors, making only the decision: does THIS color look good or bad with THIS object. Don't worry about how it will go with anything else, and don't be too picky. If you aren't sure, call it "good".

6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 with the other major objects you need to work with, using ONLY the colors that were OK iwth the first object.

OK ... now you have weeded out colors that don't look good with your stuff. Go back through the "looks good" stack and see what's left.

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RE: Bathroom & Kitchen Paint- What finish? Semi-Gloss,Eggshell, F (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: brunosonio on 11.30.2006 at 12:58 am in Home Decorating Forum

Glad to hear also that you're painting the ceilings. Good move...it will all look cleaner and brighter, and if it's all BM paints, they sheen will coordinate better. And you'll find the popcorn ceilings collect dust over the years in the crevices...you won't notice how dirty they are until you apply the primer or the paint.

And yes, prep and prime whenever possible. You want those walls as smooth as can be before the paint goes on them.

Sounds like you're getting good advice from the BM guy. I find paint salesmen to be very helpful...their product and reputation are on the line, and they are not out to upsale you to a paint that's not going to work for you.

You'll like the eggshell finish, and after it cures (give it a good 2-4 weeks), you'll find it relatively washable. The curing is the most important part...if it gets scuffed before it's hardened, resist all temptation to wipe off the dirt. You'll just grind it into the paint and you'll have to paint over it.

Here's a trick my painters taught me for doing touch ups with eggshell or satin. If you're repairing a ding or dent in the drywall, you need to dimple it...hit it with the back end of a screwdriver, a ball-peen hammer, or a special dimple tool for drywall. This creates a crater with smooth edges. Fill with quick dry spackle, using a putty knife. Don't overfill the hole...just get it as smooth as possible with the knife. Let dry completely, then sand gently with a sponge sander, so that it's completely flat. Then prime...this is crucial. There's something about light defraction/diffusion with the eggshell and satin finishes, and the primer helps it to have the same properties as the paint around it. Otherwise you'll see a burnished area of new paint.

I use a sponge roller to gently feather the paint over the patch, using less pressure on the roller which applies less paint as you get to the edges. Feather it out into the previously painted area. With any gloss/semi-gloss paint it will look horrible at first, but give it a day to dry and it should disappear.

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RE: Is there a rule for estimating yardage for custom drapes? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: chelone on 11.25.2006 at 06:25 pm in Home Decorating Forum

The short answer is, yes! there are very specific guidelines for determining the yardage required. If you're really interested in the arithmetic check a book on drapery work out of the library. It's really nothing more than arriving at cut widths and lengths, determining the number of repeats per run and adjusting the cut length to reflect the placement of the pattern. But you have to be precise and careful... mistakes can get costly pretty fast!

You begin by deciding what style of treatment you want and whether or not you want the treatment to fully expose the glass in the window. Then you think carefully about what sort of rodding you will be using and mount it BEFORE any measuring occurs. Once the rodding is in place you can easily determine the returns, the finished width and length of the treatment.

Different headings and hems have different fabric requirements. How wide will the buckram be (3/4/5/6")? how deep do you want your hem to be (3/4/5/6")? Will your panels be "puddled" and by how much? If you are doing a shade with festoons do you want a festoon to remain when the shade is fully lowered or do you want the shade to fall as a smooth panel when lowered all the way?

Generally, for lined pinch pleated drapery panels you allow 2 1/2 times the finished width for deep, full folds. With sheers you often go up to 3-4 times the finished width. So much of the numbers game depends on the look you want.

Let the wookroom do this for you, this is what custom work is all about! Let them assume the liability; you're paying for their skill and trust me, they don't want to get it wrong, either. :)

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RE: pfMastin - Kitchen Rug (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: pfmastin on 11.13.2006 at 11:24 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Sure < s >
Purchase a remnant of vinyl flooring at a flooring store or at one of the big box stores. Determine the shape of rug you want and cut it out with regular scissors. Again, it's a good idea to work on something small the first time out. Turn the flooring over on your work surface so that the color and pattern side is facing down. You'll be working on the reverse side of the flooring. Draw on whatever pattern you may like...squares, diamonds, borders, etc. To paint straight lines, use the blue painters tape to tape off the designs so that you get good straight lines if you're doing a geomatric design. Buy the small bottles of craft paint (acrylic) at your craft store. I used the foam disposable brushes. Now...have fun and paint away! Using stencils can be a nice addition if you have that style of home. Customize it...make it your own. After you've finished all the painting, let it try thoroughly. Brush on at least 3 coats of Minwax Polycrylic to protect it. That's it! Let me know if you have any specific questions.

Pam

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clipped on: 11.13.2006 at 11:56 pm    last updated on: 11.13.2006 at 11:56 pm

Any OTHER self -leveling paints for baseboards that are great too

posted by: utopiankitchens on 10.08.2006 at 02:38 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I cant find Cabinet Coat paint, and not sure if we have the time to order it. Are there any other fabulous paints for baseboards/mouldings/doors that are self-leveling and hard as nails, with a great finish????

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