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RE: Guess it's time to share my finished kitchen (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: controlfreakecs on 12.17.2012 at 10:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thank you! Silly, now, but I was a little nervous. I know it isn't the typical GW kitchen, but it suits us perfectly. To answer questions.
Can't believe I forgot to say what the counter is, it is leathered black pearl granite. I went into the remodel set on soapstone, but DH was put off by the price. Then, we visited someone else's home and he absolutely hated their soapstone. He noticed every ding and dent. I was devastated, but we found this and compromised. It saved us money and gives us the look we wanted. I am quite happy with them.

The end of my fridge has something that comes directly from GW. Thanks for the idea LAXSupermom!
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The sink is 16" diameter. It works great and fits perfectly in the corner. I wouldn't want it any smaller, but at the same time I have found it big enough to hold my colanders and wash produce nicely.

The wood bar is one of my favorite things also. It is oak (not QS) stained to match the rest of the wood.

The laundry room colors are for my husband. The maroon tiles are from Sonoma and the paint is BM orange appeal . . . . he's a VT Hokie. :)

I should also mention that we decided to get the Korner King for our lazy susan. We really like how organized it is. Granted, the construction means that you may not get as much actual sq. in. in flat space to put things, but it is easy to use and get into. You do have to be careful with installation so the drawers don't bump your hinges and my apron front sink almost got in the way. Here's a couple shots.
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clipped on: 04.26.2013 at 01:19 am    last updated on: 04.26.2013 at 01:19 am

Mostly finished, cream cabs, cherry counters, chambers stove, DIY

posted by: mermanmike on 03.12.2013 at 10:39 am in Kitchens Forum

Throughout my kitchen creation process, this website was truly invaluable, as so many have said. I love my kitchen...it is one of my favorite places to be in the world. And I know it wouldn't have taken shape in such a beautiful and personalized way if you all hadn't shared your expertise, opinions, and support. So, thank you.

There are many unfinished items here, but because other parts of our renovation have our attention right now, I thought it best to go ahead and post what has been accomplished. The toe kick under the dishwasher panel needs to be installed, some paint needs touching up on the walls, a piece of trim under two windows needs adding. We also plan to trim under the stove with toe kick material for a more finished look. But you know how it goes--these things will happen in time.

The cabinets are Medallion Platinum. They ran about $7,500. The finish is called White Chocolate. I ordered them through Just Cabinets, saving quite a bit of money. This is a good option for a DIY installer who doesn't need kitchen design hand holding.

The counters are cherry from Hardwood Lumber Company. They ran about $1800 unfinished. I used Waterlox to seal them. They are screwed in place in a handful of strategic places and silicone caulked on the underside.

The knobs are also cherry and at the moment I can't remember where I order them from. If anyone is looking for something similar, I can find the receipt.

The Chambers range--my favorite thing, I think--came from eBay for about $350. I had a lot of work to do to clean it up and get it ready for use. (And there are still a few more things I'd like to replace on it.) This was a gamble for me, having never cooked on one, but I adore it. The oven is wonderful, the cooktop is powerful and reliable, and it makes me smile every time I use it.

The floor is 7-inch yellow pine from a local mill and finished with oil.

The sink is Domsjo from Ikea. The dishwasher is Bosch. The fridge is Fisher and Paykel.

My dear partner built the open bottom cabinet with all the everyday dishes, microwave, and toaster over on it. It far exceeded my expectations when he was done. He was able to match the bead on the inset cabinets for a very cohesive appearance.

He also built the rolling pin holder to house my collection of old rolling pins.

The tan-painted (picture frame cream, Old Village Paints) open upper cabinet is an antique we already had. The larger open upper cabinet (Rittenhouse blue, Old Village Paints) came unfinished from Medallion with the rest of our cabinet order.

We build the surround for the fireplace from wood salvaged from this house--an 1832 Greek Revival. Our goal in the remodel was to create a kitchen that is classic, unfussy yet sophisticated, and easy to work in. We are very pleased with how things came together.

Here are some photographs to enjoy!

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clipped on: 03.23.2013 at 12:14 pm    last updated on: 03.23.2013 at 12:14 pm

$500 Kitchen makeover

posted by: tinan on 03.10.2013 at 07:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm done, hurray!

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

- 5 bags of Cement All concrete mix, trowel, bucket, pine boards for molds and mixer attachment - $80
- Ikea sink - $100
- Delta faucet - $190
- Paint and primer - $70
- Hardware from Amazon (knobs) and Home Depot (pulls) - $60
- beadboard wallpaper $19

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clipped on: 03.18.2013 at 11:35 pm    last updated on: 03.18.2013 at 11:35 pm

RE: are 12 inch draws useful? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: scrappy25 on 03.13.2013 at 09:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

My favorite Ikea 15" combination is a top drawer and a pullout door underneath attached to a deep drawer, with interior shallow drawers.Something like the attached picture but with a top drawer with separate drawer face.Also, this picture depicts a deep drawer in the middle. The shallow drawers are more practical in this application. It's really easy to open the main door , see what level your wanted item is on, and pull that out. To shut it, I give the large door a push with my leg and all the drawers pop back in place nicely with the Ikea soft close mechanism. The interior drawers are easy to change so that they can be completely customized for the height of the items you want to store, you are not limited to the height of the drawer faces.

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clipped on: 03.13.2013 at 09:52 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2013 at 09:52 pm

Large Reach In Pantry Pics - 55" Wide by 90" Tall

posted by: kiko on 02.24.2013 at 07:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are some pics of our large reach in pantry. I just thought I'd share it for organization ideas (and because I just redid my labels!). It has 5 shelves that are about 18 inches deep. The shelves are generally 13 inches apart (except for the unpainted one my husband added at the top to create tray storage for me). The top shelf has 20 inches of room and the bottom shelf (from floor to first shelf) has 24 inches of room. My husband added the light rope and an outlet for the wine fridge. We added the Elfa door racks originally to store wraps and dry goods but I decided later to use them for prettier items instead.

Here's a very old "before" pic.

This post was edited by kiko on Sun, Feb 24, 13 at 19:48

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clipped on: 02.28.2013 at 11:10 pm    last updated on: 02.28.2013 at 11:10 pm

Finished Kitchen Pictures!

posted by: ayerg73 on 05.28.2012 at 05:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

After over a year of planning and lots of great advice from this forum, it's time for the big reveal! The kitchen is finally finished!!

Ok - here are all the details...
Cabinets - custom builder. Shaker style. Full overlay. Painted cabinets - Colored Lacquer used is same color as SW Impressive Ivory.
Wood cabinets - natural cherry.
Hardware - Amerock Highland Ridge in Dark Oil Rubbed Bronze. 128mm and a few 3" pulls on small drawers.
Countertops - Anasazi Soapstone from The Stone Studio in Batesville, IN
Backsplash Tile - Debris Tile from Fireclay Tile. 2x6 subways in Kelp Green with swirl accents.
Fireplace Tile - Modern Mythology Phoenix Mixed Stone Mosaic
Paint - Walls are SW Krypton. Trim is SW Impressive Ivory at 50% intensity
Floor - Historic Blend Hickory floor from Tennessee Wood Flooring with hand distressing and square nail holes. 3, 4 & 5" planks, mixed.
Range - Bertazzoni Dual Fuel 48" range in black
Hood - Vent a Hood
Dishwasher - Bosch 800 Plus
Microwave - Sharp 24" Drawer
Sink - Blanco Silgranit Super single in Anthracite
Faucet - Grohe Concetto in Chrome
Soap Dispenser - Elkay Deluxe in Chrome
UCL - Neutral White LED strips from Environmental Lights
Pendants - Kichler Sayre 12" in ORB
Chandelier - Murry Feiss Sullivan Collection in ORB

The old kitchen was not in a terrible state, it was just not functional for us. The double ovens wouldn't close and we'd been reduced to duct taping them closed. The cooktop didn't cook anything evenly and the tile was coming up. There was also a ton of wasted space, which just irritated me when I couldn't find a place to store anything.

I knew I wanted a traditional range because I have short arms and always worried about burning myself when getting things out of the wall ovens, so I knew that a layout change was in order. We also had a very dark space with almost no natural light. We opened up the room to the dining room and put in light colored cabinets with lots of great lighting. The room definitely doesn't feel dark anymore. YAY!

Here's what we were working with before:
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And here's what we have now...

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Love the dog food storage. It makes feeding time a whole lot easier.
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And my spice/knife drawer - thanks to Breezy for the idea!
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It seems like just about every decision in our space has been touched in some way by you guys. Thanks for helping us create our dream kitchen!

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clipped on: 02.16.2013 at 09:36 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2013 at 09:36 pm

RE: Show me your baseboards/furniture-style moldings (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: pirula on 01.31.2013 at 02:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's mine. I painted the backs black so they would "disappear."

Here is a link that might be useful: My kitchen

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clipped on: 02.12.2013 at 08:29 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2013 at 08:29 pm

RE: Show me your baseboards/furniture-style moldings (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: breezygirl on 01.30.2013 at 05:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

My island. The "working" side does not have molding over the toe kick. My toes DO use that space.

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End of my peninsula
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Beverage area in DR.
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clipped on: 02.12.2013 at 08:27 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2013 at 08:27 pm

RE: Will I regret soapstone? Another option? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: fivefootzero on 02.08.2013 at 05:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have Belvedere soapstone. Very hard variety. We don't oil it. It's mostly a mottled dark gray/black. We love it. My husband is a firefighter and a sloppy cook...like having an elephant in the kitchen. I have 2 children, and it has stood up to anything I have put it through in almost 2 years.

There are many varieties. Just get samples and get the harder variety you can find. I don't ever oil, so no upkeep at all. I clean it with Lysol kitchen cleaner when it needs to be wiped down.

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clipped on: 02.10.2013 at 03:17 am    last updated on: 02.10.2013 at 03:17 am

RE: Will I regret soapstone? Another option? (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: msrose on 02.09.2013 at 12:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

I don't know anything about it, but I saw Jet Mist satin when I was looking at granite recently and thought it was pretty.

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clipped on: 02.10.2013 at 03:16 am    last updated on: 02.10.2013 at 03:17 am

RE: Will I regret soapstone? Another option? (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: roulie on 02.09.2013 at 03:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

mommamouro:

I'll suggest another option. My husband and I went through a similar discussion when we redid our kitchen a few years ago. I wanted soapstone, but he was afraid it would get dinged and dented. It wasn't the upkeep he was worried about: he just doesn't like "patina". But I *really* wanted soapstone because I wanted black counters with a softer, matte finish.

Our compromise was Cambrian Black with a leathered finish and we both LOVED it. It was absolutely bulletproof. No denting, staining, fingerprints, etching, nothing. I did try a sample of a honed black granite -- I don't remember which black it was specifically -- but just handling it in the store left so many fingerprints. The leathered finish didn't show any greasy fingerprints at all. (I mean, if the kids were eating fried chicken and then wiped their fingers on the counter, there would be greasy fingerprints! But just in day to day use, there were never fingerprints.)

Some people on this forum have asked whether things get stuck in the leathered finish, and I'll tell you that it wouldn't be possible. There are no places for things to get stuck. You have to wipe sticky things off just like you would with any counter, but the finish is smooth, with just smooth indentations, and nothing gets "stuck".

Now. That said, if I had to do it again (maybe with a different husband?) I still LOVE soapstone!!

Here is a picture of my leathered Cambrian:

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close up so you can see how smooth:
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clipped on: 02.10.2013 at 03:16 am    last updated on: 02.10.2013 at 03:16 am

Not-nearly-done-kitchen PART 2 from Breezy

posted by: breezygirl on 01.28.2013 at 05:16 am in Kitchens Forum

The thread I posted about a year ago on my unfinished kitchen just reached its 150 post maximum as Huango asked a question. Since I can't answer you there, Amanda, I'll post this thread as part 2 and answer here.

posted by Huango on Sun, Jan 27, 13 at 10:50

I really LOVE your kitchen.
I really like your handles placed horizontally.
Sorry I didn't read through, but did you get any pushback when you said to install the handle os the doors (not drawers) horizontally?

My DH and guy friends think I'm nuts and SO WRONG to do it like that. They said that people will break the handle and/or door since the user will pull out the door instead of swinging it open.
Yes, I showed them your beautiful kitchen and they still don't get it.

Of all my cabinets, only 5 of them are doors; rest are drawers. So I think the door handles should be place horizontally just like my drawers.

How did you handle any pushbacks?
What besides "It-is-my-kitchen-and-I-will-put-the-handles-however-I-want" can I use to gain DH and friends' understanding?

Thank you very much,
Amanda

p.s. Thank you very much for your supportive posts on my threads. It has been a very long road and it is incredibly helpful to read such wonderful thoughts.
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First, you're welcome, Amanda, and thanks for the compliments. I received so much help to even remember from all the kind folks here when I was actively reno'ing. I'm happy to pay it forward. I hope your DH is doing better. I have you, him, and your family in my thoughts and prayers.

To answer your question, I don't think I asked anybody's permission about my pull placement. DH has some input on the pulls, as in he didn't like them at first, but I eventually ordered what I wanted. I learned at the beginning of this reno not to ask his opinion on certain aesthetic questions unless I knew he had a strong preference or if I couldn't decide myself. We have an almost 20 year history of being unable to come to mutual agreement about many aesthetic items in our home so we compromise with something completely boring that neither one of us really likes. I saw this whole house reno as a chance to find my style. I don't mean this all to sound cold. For the most part I did what I wanted. Besides, DH is too busy working and traveling for work to care much about anything besides spending his small amount of free time with his family. :)

My cab maker, bless his patient heart, had never seen anyone with so few uppers, so many drawers, pulls of different sizes, and pulls on all cabs and drawers that when we got to pull placement, he simply did what I asked. He did triple and quadruple check to make sure that he understood what I wanted though. In the end, he said he liked the pulls and the placement and would offer it as an option to future customers if they were unsure of their hardware placement.

I'm not sure what advice I can give you, really, other than to say its MY kitchen and I'll do as I please! I think we've established in another thread that I'm a b*t$h mom, and that must rub off in other areas of my life. I didn't ask permission about where to place my pulls. I'm the one that uses the kitchen hours and hours a day and does 98.5467% of the work in there anyway. Really, it's no one's business but yours, and maybe your DH's. Certainly not your friends. I guess I would say to be strong and stand up for yourself. I don't mean for that to sound condescending!

A far as function goes, I have had zero issues with the horizontal placement nor has anyone else who has worked in my kitchen. In fact, not one person has even mentioned the unusal placement, not even my SIL who installed hers in the same manner. I think that says something that no one even notices!

No one has tried to pull out a door. Unless you've never functioned in a house before, I think a person's subconscious is smart enough to see a door and realize a door swings open. And I find the ergonomics to be better this way anyway. With uppers, I don't have to reach as far up to open a door as I would if the pulls were in a more traditonal vertical placement up farther on the stiles. With the lowers, I don't have to reach as far down to open the doors as I would if the pulls were in a more traditional vertical placement down lower on the stiles. Try that argument on the boys.

Plus, the garbage pullout would drive me completely and utterly nutso if the pull was down lower vertically. Bonkers!

I also like the visual simplicity of the pulls all running in one direction. Some kitchens look busy to me with so many horizontal and vertical lines running everywhere. There are others who have done this, also. Have you seen other kitchens like this?

I hope I helped some! I'm looking forward to seeing your finished kitchen!

Here's my current kitchen frustration.
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Here is a link that might be useful: Part 1

This post was edited by breezygirl on Mon, Jan 28, 13 at 5:38

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clipped on: 01.28.2013 at 11:49 am    last updated on: 02.01.2013 at 06:57 pm

people with open shelves or no uppers

posted by: michoumonster on 01.25.2013 at 02:19 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi all, I know many of you have stunning kitchens with no uppers or have open shelves. I was wondering, what did you do for backsplash? Did you choose to tile all the way up to the ceiling, take the granite all the way up to ceiling, or just leave the wall painted, or do you just tile under the shelves? Any pics would be greatly appreciated.
I decided to do open shelves on one wall, but now cannot figure out what to do about backsplash. thank you for your insight!!

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clipped on: 02.01.2013 at 06:55 pm    last updated on: 02.01.2013 at 06:55 pm

RE: Layout help please.. - Galley Kitchen for 2 - ideas encourage (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: GWlolo on 01.02.2013 at 04:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have a longish galley open on both ends as well. In our remodel, we will have 30" lowers and 16" uppers --> They look fine and add so much more space. I do have 5 ft between the 2 sides of the galley to make it feel less tight. Kitchen is a bit of a transit area for our layout as well. I do have sink behind the cook top and I did it to keep the sink in the same location as it was too cost-prohibitive to change the location (we are also on a slab). I did add a prep sink on the same side as the cooktop, so that I could rinse and prep veggies etc and take it to the cooktop without dripping water on the floor. In a galley, I greatly prefer a prep sink on the same counter run as the cooktop.

Here is my layout

Sink side
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Cooktop side
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Layout
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clipped on: 01.28.2013 at 10:26 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2013 at 10:27 pm

RE: Towards a unified theory of tile. (Many pics) (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: mpagmom on 06.08.2012 at 10:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

Have you looked at Heath Ceramics? They definitely have variation in color, and I don't see waviness. Of course I've never priced them, so that could be a negative. Here are a couple pics from their web site:

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clipped on: 01.25.2013 at 11:36 am    last updated on: 01.25.2013 at 11:37 am

RE: Request for 2LittleFishies (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: 2LittleFishies on 12.02.2012 at 08:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi Babushka!
I don't know much about light rails, but here are some photos : ) I hope they help you. Let me know if you need anything else!

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clipped on: 01.12.2013 at 01:14 pm    last updated on: 01.12.2013 at 01:14 pm

RE: Not-nearly-done-but-since-you-asked pics (Follow-Up #98)

posted by: breezygirl on 01.19.2012 at 03:30 am in Kitchens Forum

Lorlor--Have you checked out Specialty Bottle? See the link below. You might find a style that works for your use. I'll see if I can find your post.

Lynn--I'm so sorry to hear about your Skeeter. The pain is devastating when we lose a furry family member. I lost my sweet, black Archie kitty in July, and I still cry at night missing him when we would have been hanging out at my feet waiting for me to go to bed so he could lay with me. They leave a hole in your heart when they're gone. I hope you're taking good care of yourself during this time. Rescuing kitties is fun, but I hope it takes you a long time to get there. Thank you for the compliments. Glad you're back.

Rhome--I love the built-ins, too! I just couldn't see those ends next to the actual fp box be drywalled up, useless forever.

The spice tins are from Specialty Bottle. They have several different kinds. The lids on mine aren't screw on, but they hold really tightly so no worries.

Colorfast--Thank you! We did have a great time making a mess rolling holiday cookies! It's a blessing to have so much space and all those windows in our gray climate. Please, please post some pics! I would love to see them!

Menmsmom--Thanks! The stain on the floor is 75% Jacobean and 25% Coffee Brown (similar to Black Walnut). As far as the walls go, there won't be much drywall showing once the eurosplash goes on covering the rangetop wall from ceiling to counter and from side to side. The little drywall above the cleanup sink window, around the pantry door, and wall end abutting fridge panel will be painted the same color as my cabs and trim (BM Simply White) in hopes of making those areas blend in rather than stand out. I could conceivably paint above the cleanup sink window the same as the family room (BM Nimbus), which joins on that same wall depending on the tile I use.

Weedmeister--ROTFLMAO!! Thanks for the laugh and kind words! Answers:

1. Pantry door has a hinge limiter on so it would be very hard to swing into the fridge. If anything, the door would hit the freezer handle before any potential door knob would. Still looking for the right knob.

2. No drinks fridge. I needed the storage, and we don't drink much on a daily basis but milk and water. I sure thought about it though...

3. The hood is 30.5" from the counter, 29.5" from the rangetop surface, and a little less than that from the rangetop grates. It seems like it could go a little higher, but I wanted it to line up with the top of the ovens. Plus, getting a hood with only a 600cfm blower venting monster BTUs, I thought that having the hood a little lower might help with suckage.

4. Yes, that's the same fireplace that looked like this a few months ago.

New fireplace install 2 4-27-11

5. My knives are a mix of brands. My fav is my Shun Santoku. Also in the mix are Dexter, Wustof, Mercer, Connoisseur, and Chef. DH works for a restaurant supply co so brings home samples all the time. I wouldn't give up my Shun for anything.

Here is a link that might be useful: Specialty Bottle

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clipped on: 01.01.2013 at 01:49 pm    last updated on: 01.01.2013 at 01:50 pm

RE: I also need the stainless steel sink cleaning trick (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: kaijutokusatsu on 12.23.2012 at 05:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is my clipping from sherrilynn:
about any stainless steel sink. I recently had a huge compliment from my brother, a builder of high end homes. He was very impressed at how good my sink always looks. He is not a fan at ALL with SS. He prefers porcelain, which chips.

I asked him why he was so impressed with my sink and hates SS? It was because he has had to replace multiple high end sinks before closing because a workman or someone would have used a new homeowners SS sink and caused a 'scratch' in the bottom of the sink. The new homeowners would insist on a brand new sink before they would close.We all know that we can tolerate the damage that we do to our stuff, but not anyone else! When you spend well over a $1,000 to $1,800 for a sink, of COURSE you want it to be unblemished!

Well, I told him my 'secret' to keeping my 12" deep single basin Franke sink looking good. I've used this 'method' on ALL of my sinks and I just love it! My sink glows because of the 'patina' that it now has...and yours can, too. The finish looks better each time you use my method, too.

I use my sink! I also have a large family that I cook for and use some commercial size, heavy pans. Guests sometimes want to help in the kitchen, or teens, and they bang up the bottom, scratching the sink, and it will look just awful when they're done. They always apologize because they think they've ruined my sink. Never fear. I can 'fix' it in as little as 3 minutes from start to finish.

I've now trained my teens on how to help me maintain a good looking sink. AND if they scratch it, they restore it! It's that simple.

Here's what I do. About every other day, I use Bar Keepers Friend and one of the green scrubby pads that you can buy just about anywhere. It will keep average use to your sink 'maintained' between 'restoration' cleanings.

When there are scuffs and deeper scratches in the sink, I use sandpaper to wet-sand the metal in different grades of paper to restore the sinks. I prefer the black 'wet or dry' sandpaper by Norton that you buy at HD. I already have about 3" squares in multiple grades already cut out and in a baggy under my sink, so I'm ready when I need to 'do this'.

I start with about 150 grit working on the problem areas when I get to them, then work up to at least a 400 grit. I use small circular pattern and overlap all of my work. I never just 'rub' a scuff or scratch in a straight pattern; I always blend my work.

I start in the furthest back left corner and work across the back of the sink moving left to right, just as you would work if you were writing on lined paper. I do the entire sink bottom, then move to the sides. I start with 150 grit paper, then change to 220, then 320, then 400. I rinse the sink after each grit paper is used. Sometimes I use a little soap or BKF depending on my needs so I can move faster with the paper. Once you try it, you will understand what I mean.

I finish off with a good soapy rinse with a rag, then apply a 'finish' of Franke Inox cleaner or a wiping coat of vegetable oil. I have even used Rain-X to help repel spots. I'm just out of it right now and have been using up products I have under the sink. I use 'whatever' to just help the sink repel water right down the drain a.s.a.p..

My brother now had one of his guys using my method on their Franke sinks before final walk thru before closing on a new home. Guess what? They're not having to replace sinks anymore.

After you clean your sink a few times, your sink will start to gain a beautiful patina and smoothness to the finish and you will start to love stainless steel. I also use this method on my $10,000 Thermador Range top. It glows. I just love it.

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clipped on: 12.26.2012 at 11:53 am    last updated on: 12.26.2012 at 11:53 am

RE: Would you do a kitchen with all drawer base cabinets? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: jakabedy on 04.09.2012 at 02:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

My kitchen has 20.5' of base cabinets. It is broken down like this:

1) 36" sink base (doors only)
2) 30" pull outs with adjustable interior drawers (for stand mixer, pet food bins, garbage bins, etc.)
3) 180" of three-drawer base cabinets (two deep drawers and a shallow drawer(s) on top.

Here's a photo of how my pull-out cabinet works (the closed cabinet to the left is identical to the open cabinet, but has two shallower internal drawers rather than one deep one). The drawer front is the entire height of the cabinet and attached to the bottom drawer. Interior drawers can be adjusted.

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I have not regretted this breakdown at any point. Under the sink base I have items in baskets that I can easily pull out. Given the layout of our plumbing (up from the floor through the slab), trying to put drawers there would have been a hassle, and would have required a lot of customization for questionable utility in the end. The two pull-out cabinets fit the things I needed them to fit. Everything else -- EVERYTHING ELSE -- is happy in the drawers. That includes pots, pans, baking dishes, glasses, plates and bowls, tupperware, etc.

I only have one upper cabinet in the whole kitchen, over the fridge. Stored up there are large mixing bowls, small aseldom-used appliances (Foreman grill, little crock pot, etc.) and the glass cake stand and big plastic cake carrier. Cookie sheets/cutting boards are stored on edge in the pantry.

The only thing I didn't have to factor in was stemware. We have a wet bar and all the stemware lives in there. I would look for feedback from folks who have stemware in drawers -- that is the one thing I wouldn't be too sure about.

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clipped on: 12.08.2012 at 10:31 pm    last updated on: 12.08.2012 at 10:32 pm

Finished Rustic Kitchen! (one photo prelim :-)

posted by: jenny_from_the_block on 12.07.2012 at 04:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

I've spent so much time here, I feel weirdly guilty for having a close-to-finished kitchen and not sharing any photos :-)
So here is one I took last night. (I need to use a real camera next time and not phone-camera)
I'm not posting all of it because we still have a few small items left to do (a few bits of baseboard and trim out the pantry doors, some more under-shelf lighting). Going at our speed it may take months to get that done!
Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App

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clipped on: 12.08.2012 at 10:15 pm    last updated on: 12.08.2012 at 10:15 pm

RE: 36'' CD Fridge Owners: More fridge or more pantry? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: deedles on 12.07.2012 at 09:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

I had to weigh this same thing. Back and forth. I decided to go with an 32" all-fridge and 24" Summit undercounter freezer drawers. Those CD fridges just didn't seem to have the fridge volume that I need, esp since our place is an hour round trip driving to the nearest grocery store, and we garden and I cook from scratch so fresh food storage is paramount. I've got what I've got for dry pantry storage and the rest will be in a basement pantry. Which do you need more? Do you buy in bulk or make frequents trips to the store? I know in my current giant 36 french door, I'm STILL taking things to the garage fridge during holidays. I'm just was too nervous about the CD fridge/freezer capacity.

What I'm saying is... it sounds like you think you need more fridge than you're going to have. Maybe you could re-think what you're choosing for a fridge. What about a narrower all-fridge, freezer drawers and a pullout pantry, if it could be made to fit?

30" all fridge + 24 Summit or 27" SZ freezer drawers = 54 or 57 out of 66". You could work a pull out into that space even taking into account 3/4 for a panel b/t the fr/frz. And you'd still have the upper cupboards.

I went with more fridge, since I figure I'll run up and down less for dry pantry items than for refrigerated.

Just my thoughts~

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clipped on: 12.08.2012 at 10:12 pm    last updated on: 12.08.2012 at 10:12 pm

RE: How do I make kitchen soffits fit into my elegant vision of k (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: celineike on 08.06.2011 at 06:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

addressing only the soffits -- paint them the same color as the cabs.
I hid mine behind fake little upper doors ;o)
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clipped on: 12.03.2012 at 01:06 pm    last updated on: 12.03.2012 at 01:06 pm

Undermounting the IKEA Domsjo Sink

posted by: brickmanhouse on 08.20.2010 at 07:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi all,

I was kind of surprised at the amount of interest that the undermount IKEA Domsjo sink generated in my thread on my new kitchen. It got me to thinking there must be a lot more out there that have considered this particular hack, so I figured I'd try and get some more photos, and give the topic its own thread!

I should say at the outset that, while I love IKEA (obviously!) I think they only got it 80% right on this sink, and the 20% wrong is that dumb-looking (and absurdly wide) back ledge, and the unnecessarily thick side ledges. Honestly, if I couldn't have figured out a way to undermount this sink, I wouldn't have bought it-- it's really clunky as they show it installed. Plus that thick side ledge crumb catcher would have driven me insane.

So. . . those disclosures aside, we just undermounted the Domsjo essentially just like we would have any other undermount installation. There are two ways to undermount a sink, with or without a drip rail, and they are COMPLETELY different. If you're going to do an undermount, be sure you're crystal clear on the difference, and which one you want to do.

The Domsjo single bowl is a 24" sink, and we did a non-drip rail installation, so to undermount it, we used a 30" cabinet.

The sink is designed to sit on two metal rails (they come with the sink) that span the width of the cabinet, and screw into the sides. Those rails are too short for a 30" cabinet, so we just reused a spare cabinet part (a plain 2 x 4 would work equally well) and placed it and screwed it exactly like we would have with the metal.

If you look at the top left corner of this photo, you can see the sink resting on the support:

From 2010-0818

The only tricky part is measuring precisely, to make sure that you place the supports at the right height, so that the top of the sink is exactly level with the top of the cabinet.

Once the sink is sitting level with the top of the cabinet, the counter top goes on, and sits on top of the sink and the cabinet. We just ran a bead of clear caulk along the sink/counter seam:

From 2010-0818

Don't forget to drill the hole for the faucet! That part's easy, though. Because there's a faucet hole on the back deck of the sink, all you have to do is trace it on to the underside of your countertop, and cut it out. The sink is drilled for a single hole mount. If you have your heart set on another style, you'll have to use a diamond hole saw and drill additional holes in the sink deck and countertop.

Trimming the sink out was a touch fussy, but the beauty of IKEA is that you can buy doors and drawerfronts seperately, so we could just mix and match, keep what worked, and return what didn't. Throughout our project, we basically treated our IKEA as a glorified hardware store-- it was a monster collection of finished wood, hardware and parts at our disposal, and we just picked out and played with whatever looked like it might work.

To do the apron around the sink, we used a 30" wide drawerfront (IKEA's deep drawer front-- about 12" high). In this photo, you can actually see that the cut drawerfront around the sink, and the drawerfront in the bottom stack under the microwave are identical:

From 2010-0818

We traced the outline of the front of the sink onto the drawerfront, and cut it with a jigsaw. Finish nailed it into place, then installed the airswitch for the disposal:

From 2010-0818

Because we dropped the height of the sink, none of the standard IKEA doors fit exactly, but the 18" set was really close, so we used those, and just added a small filler strip (maybe 3/4 inch?) above them:

From 2010-0818

Undermounting the sink only drops it by the height of the countertop (usually 1 1/2 inches), so not much changes with the interior space. There is definitely room for a pullout in there, or room for a disposal (we have one):

From 2010-0818

If anyone has any more questions about the sink install, I'm happy to answer what I can!

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clipped on: 12.03.2012 at 01:45 am    last updated on: 12.03.2012 at 01:46 am

Finished Kitchen ~ Green and Cream using Cliq Studios cabs

posted by: lisa_wi on 09.28.2012 at 02:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well I'm finally here! Just the backsplash left at this point. Our house was built in 1929, but the previous owners gutted and remodeled about 8 years ago. Unfortunately they went with oak, kind of a funky layout, and 30" uppers in a room with almost 9 foot ceilings. They cabinets hadn't held up that great either, so we decided to replace all the cabinets and change the layout. We bought this house 18 months ago when we decided to downsize so that I could stay at home with our 3 kids. With that said it was a relatively low budget remodel.

Before in all its oak and cranberry glory ~

Before

IMG_3509

IMG_3507

IMG_3508

and after ~ We pushed the refrigerator back into part of our front hall closet and turned a G into a galley. New 42" uppers and (almost) all drawers. I love the new layout!

IMG_4165

IMG_4172

IMG_4177

IMG_4179

IMG_4180

IMG_4186

IMG_4194

The details:
Cabinets: Cliq Studios Tea Leaf lowers, Painted Linen uppers
Counters: Black Pearl Granite
Sink: 30" Kohler Whitehaven in biscuit
Faucet: Kohler Simplice in stainless steel
Ceiling Light: Rejuvenation Jefferson in black with glass shade from ebay
Sink Light: Hi-Lite Manufacturing Warehouse Shade 8" in Vanilla Cream
Undercabinet Lights: ProLED 1.5 watt strips
Peninsula Legs and Apron: Osborne Wood Products St. Simons Island Post and beaded apron painted by me to match
Hardware: Cup Pulls are Thomasville Garner 2 3/4" Cup Pull in matte black, Knobs are Liberty P40005C in flat black, both from Home Depot
Stools: 24" Saddle Seat Stool from Walmart
Flooring: Original maple with a little repair/replacement done
Wall paint: Sherwin Williams Compatible Cream
Trim paint: Sherwin Williams Creamy

I think its helpful to have a budget breakdown especially for lower end kitchens so I thought I'd include that as well:
Cabinets, crown, peninsula legs and apron: $5,500
Granite Counters: $2,200
Other Building Materials: $550
GC's Labor (including installing cabs, framing new closet): $1,600
GC Fee: $400
Lighting: $310
Plumbing Fixtures: $1,200
Hardware: $170
Plumbing: $1,285
Electrical: $1,200
Drywall: $1,100
HVAC: $100
Paint: $50
Accessories: $150

Total: about $16,000 which was pretty much the total budget we started with. Some things shifted back and forth - more on lighting, less on electrical sub, more on drywall, less on plumbing fixtures.

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clipped on: 11.17.2012 at 12:33 pm    last updated on: 11.17.2012 at 12:33 pm

RE: Need Help with Backsplash (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: Autumn.4 on 11.13.2012 at 07:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

Misty-I have ubatuba (there is another uba tuba thread going) and I love the slate with it...likely because that is what I did and I really like that earthy texture. We did a kitchen facelift before getting ready to put our house for sale (not quite there yet but at least the kitchen is updated) also. So out of EAM's posts I like the bottom one from 1:09 and in your last one from 20:08 I like the little squares that are by the orange tape. I think it would play off of your floors but not be too matchy matchy.

That said you have a very nice kitchen and I think the neutral/glass that you are gravitating too will look really nice also.

I thought it might be helpful to give you an idea of what those slate tiles would look like in more than just a sample strip. At least give you a "no way" or "maybe" feeling. You look like you have a lot of natural light so the space wouldn't be overly dark. My slate seems a bit darker than the samples you posted and my cabs are not exact either but in general its close enough to get a feel. Hope it's helpful.

Photobucket

Lisa_WI also just did a lighter slate in the shape of your first post with white cabs and dark granite that turned out really well too. Not sure if you've seen it so I posted the link here:

Here is a link that might be useful: Lisa_WI Backsplash thread

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clipped on: 11.17.2012 at 12:29 pm    last updated on: 11.17.2012 at 12:29 pm

RE: Backsplash color opinions. (Help get me out of ABB!) Pix hea (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: enduring on 11.02.2012 at 09:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

I think the pattern on the floor shouldn't be competing for attention.

While lovely tiles, I don't like the marble or the onyx or any of the photoshopped tiles. It is so good of Oldbat and EAM to do those mockups for visualization. I do like the paint EAM showed, but it needs to really match with the tiles in my opinion. I do like Leela's whitish tile with the grout that matches the stone.

What about Petra's kitchen? The Spanish one with the white tile and the crazy cute zip of color along the upper edge.

While looking for Petra's kitchen, which I couldn't find, I found a post of another kitchen that came up when I searched. This other kitchen has an interesting treatment along the soapstone. It is a short splash. 2nd picture.

And what about that beautiful tile you where looking at months ago, or something similar?
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I can't remember the name of the tile company but you've got it, I think, in our records cause you've referenced it before if I remember correctly.

Here is a link that might be useful: dmlinparadise kitchen

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clipped on: 11.12.2012 at 05:16 pm    last updated on: 11.12.2012 at 05:16 pm

RE: A comment about Waterlox (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: kaib on 10.19.2010 at 08:40 am in Flooring Forum

Okie, (Hi from Carrier!)...

Three coats should do it. During my experiment, I laid a very thin second coat (of original) just to see how it would do, so I have one thick, one thin and two normal coats.

I do have smaller sample blocks I played with - many have just three coats. These I have scratched with nails, bit into and abused; I have to say the Waterlox is impressive.

My plain white oak (i.e. unstained) sample I found to be a bit too "yellow/amber" and a bit light for my taste. After playing with stains I found the Minwax Gunstock to be a bit too dark and a bit too red (looks like red oak) and the Cabot's Gunstock perfect at 5/1 with the first coat of Waterlox.

Congratulations on a great floor and great finish - I'd be glad to post a photo of my sample iffn I can figure out how to do it here.

Kai

Here is a link that might be useful: Try this for a photo

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clipped on: 09.04.2012 at 01:29 am    last updated on: 09.04.2012 at 01:29 am

RE: Who has a microwave drawer? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: eastfallsglass on 08.26.2011 at 06:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

We incorporated the Sharp 24" microwave drawer into our new kitchen, and so far we really like it. There's room for nuking two medium sized plates at the same time and it cooks both very evenly. We'll have to see if the door mechanism holds-up, but so far so good. From what I understand, Sharp is the only 'OEM' manufacturer of these drawers, so the upgrade to Viking or Wolf, etc... should be based on aesthetics.

Also note that the 27" and 24" drawers have the same cooking area inside, there is just more 'chrome' on the 27" model.

Here's a picture of our drawer, its the unit to the right of the fridge. They are sized nicely so you can get a large drawer underneath for microwavable bowls, etc...

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clipped on: 08.15.2012 at 05:21 pm    last updated on: 08.15.2012 at 05:22 pm

RE: Who has a microwave drawer? (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: slush1422 on 09.06.2011 at 06:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

Didn't read all the previous posts, but we've had ours now a few months and I LOVE it! Totally worth the money to me to have a larger microwave, and to have it off the counter. Plus the cool factor when anyone comes into the kitchen and sees it open with the push button.

I don't have a recent picture - but here it is right after install. We got the warming drawer too. DH and a friend had to do some custom stuff to the Ikea base cabinet before the install but it worked out perfect with their standard size 30 base. (We got the 27 model only because we wanted it to match the warming drawer size).

From Berta Install

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clipped on: 08.15.2012 at 05:21 pm    last updated on: 08.15.2012 at 05:21 pm

Oops! picture didn't appear... (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: viva99 on 03.17.2011 at 11:31 am in Kitchens Forum

Sorry this is so big.

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clipped on: 08.14.2012 at 05:35 pm    last updated on: 08.14.2012 at 05:35 pm

RE: Anyone have raised dishwasher? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: cam349 on 08.11.2012 at 07:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's an inspiration photo from my kitchen folder. I'm planning something similar except there will be a drawer below the hutch doors so you can set something on the counter and open the doors too. The dishwasher I'm using is a panel ready Bosch.

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clipped on: 08.12.2012 at 05:16 pm    last updated on: 08.12.2012 at 05:16 pm

How to pick a kitchen when house has identity crisis?

posted by: athomesewing on 01.13.2012 at 12:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

How do I pick out cabinets and kitchen finishes when it seems that our house has an identity crisis?

I feel what this house "wanted" to be, or maybe what I wish it could be, is somewhat rustic, casual, nature inspired. The original owners did an incredible job of bringing the outdoors in with lots and lots and lots of 6-foot tall windows. The house is nestled in the middle mature woodland acreage so the views out every window are wonderful.

Despite many features that suggest rustic, such as square, exposed beams on the large covered back porch, and many wood finishes, it seems that house becomes confused is in some of the other elements they selected.

Interior doors are stained wood, raised 6-panel, which maybe could read a lot of styles? But, they are finished with brass curved-lever knobs, which seem out of place. Changing the knobs is on the To Do list no matter what.

White vinyl windows are wrapped in stained wood, but the trim has a somewhat refined profile, and the same molding serves as the baseboard through the house. The soffits, which are visible from all the windows, and the large porches are covered with natural knotty pine.

The fireplace is large and makes a big statement in the family room, is dressed in taupe-ish brick. We tried to beef up it's looks a bit by adding a chunky mantle. I would love to know what more we can do to change it's looks, it's a Russian fireplace (designed to provide heat) so I don't know if that's a limiting factor.

The new kitchen will be open to the family room, so whatever cabinetry we select, which will also extend into the family room, has to play nicely with existing woods and will also have a major impact on the personality of the house. I would love to move the home toward what I think it ought to be: a mildly rustic, nature-inspired style. Is that even possible given some of the major elements which seem to conflict?

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clipped on: 07.31.2012 at 08:31 pm    last updated on: 07.31.2012 at 08:31 pm

More pink kitchens...

posted by: lavender_lass on 07.18.2012 at 01:26 am in Kitchens Forum

I tried bumping up the DAT thread on pink kitchens...part 2, but no luck. So, I thought I'd start a new thead :)

While I don't plan to have a pink kitchen, myself...I do like how cheeful some of them look. It's fun to see how much pink is used and what people feel comfortable with, in their own kitchen.

I really like this kitchen! It's a great space...and if the pink became too much, it would be so easy to paint the base cabinets another color...and still have a lovely room.

From Pink kitchen

Here's another fun kitchen...with really bright, dark pink as an accent.

From Pink kitchen

While this might seem like a 'safer' choice...the stools are pink. While it doesn't seem as pink, it would be more difficult to change, if you wanted to try another color, later on.

From Pink kitchen

But, if you love pink and want to have some fun...one light pink appliance makes a statement, but could also be vintage, as well as pink.

From Pink kitchen

And...if pink made us all this excited to walk into our kitchen...we'd probably see a lot more pink kitchens! :)

From Pink kitchen

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clipped on: 07.20.2012 at 05:33 pm    last updated on: 07.20.2012 at 05:34 pm

RE: Barocca soapstone looks like Ray Liotta after 2 hours. What e (Follow-Up #65)

posted by: rococogurl on 07.19.2012 at 11:21 am in Kitchens Forum

I have honed AB black in the laundry room and I wouldn't want it in the kitchen. If I use hand lotion then touch it I have grease spots. One chicken....

Pyrolave is a bulletproof candidate, price willing.

And if only to reject I'd look at at Caesarstone which impresses me every time I see it used and they have some that's matte and not sparkly.

The other thread is closed but though this might be useful in some way (or perhaps not).

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clipped on: 07.19.2012 at 08:15 pm    last updated on: 07.19.2012 at 08:15 pm

And one more (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: Bellsmom on 04.06.2012 at 04:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our island is about 8 feet long, 25'' wide. There is about a 38'' walkway on the left from countertop overhang to countertop overhang. On the right about 35'' from countertop overhang to wall.
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No problems with crowding, partly because if two or more people are in one passage the next person can just circle the other way.

Hope this helps.
Sandra

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clipped on: 07.19.2012 at 11:12 am    last updated on: 07.19.2012 at 11:12 am

RE: pullouts (Follow-Up #48)

posted by: Shareher on 07.17.2012 at 07:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

And a pullout with three shelves on the other side for spices.

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clipped on: 07.17.2012 at 08:00 pm    last updated on: 07.17.2012 at 08:00 pm

RE: pullouts (Follow-Up #47)

posted by: Shareher on 07.17.2012 at 07:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

And here is a picture of the pullouts on either side of the range. The first has taller shelves for oil and vinegar.

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clipped on: 07.17.2012 at 08:00 pm    last updated on: 07.17.2012 at 08:00 pm

RE: small spice rack (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: Shareher on 07.17.2012 at 09:35 am in Kitchens Forum

Small spice cabinets on either side of range

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clipped on: 07.17.2012 at 07:58 pm    last updated on: 07.17.2012 at 07:58 pm