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RE: Adding furniture feet to cabinets- retrofitting (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: fitzwilli on 03.10.2008 at 11:28 am in Kitchens Forum

I also want to add feet to my existing cabinets...and I have found these two web sites that have what are called pedestal feet.

I was going to leave my kick and put them under, but maybe that isn't right. I was going to order a pair or two and test it out. (decorative wood section)

Hope this helps!


furniture feet on cabinet
clipped on: 03.10.2008 at 12:16 pm    last updated on: 03.10.2008 at 12:16 pm

RE: 'Soft Close' cabinets? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: debi_2006 on 02.05.2008 at 04:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

I should be a salesperson for this product. This is a great product, and I can't speak highly enough about them. I tell everyone I know about these because they are just that great to have. This is a Blum product that can be used on ANY kind of cabinet door. We have them on all our doors. With these, you just can't slam a door.

They are so easy to install. Here's the website where you can get there. Click on the little cabinet photo to supersize on the link below.

Hope this helps.

Here is a link that might be useful: Soft close for doors


blum soft close cabinets
clipped on: 02.07.2008 at 08:08 am    last updated on: 02.07.2008 at 08:08 am

RE: Kitchen finished!!! Pictures!!! (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: socalthreems on 02.03.2008 at 10:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

I just looked it up (I didn't know - how embarrassing is that?), but the lights are LBL Flute Pendant lights. I got them at a place in San Diego named Candescent, but I just found it online as well.


bling for pendants
clipped on: 02.04.2008 at 02:30 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2008 at 02:30 pm

RE: Undermount sink keeps separating from granite (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: azstoneconsulting on 12.17.2007 at 06:36 am in Kitchens Forum

There's alot of contractors that rely only on a bead of
silicone to adhere the sink to the underside of a stone
counter top when it is an undermount application.

In my opinion, that is NOT a good practice and will
result in exactly what you are experiencing - the
sink seperating from the counter top and sagging or
completely falling away from the underside of the counter top.

The technique that I have ALWAYS preferred, is to not
only seal the flange of the sink to the underside of the
counter top with silicone, but ALSO use a MECHANICAL means
of support from underneath to hold the sink in place -
so the weight of the sink, garbage disposal, associated
plumbing and content of the sink - all combined - will
not act in such a way in conjunction with gravity -
as to "pull" down the sink assembly
from the underside of the counter top.

There's a number of things that can be used:

1. Undercounter Mounter (a metal support system that
is usually implemented at the time of installation)

2. Plywood subtop (used primarily with Stainless Steel

3. Wood Cradle Frame

4. Manufacturer's Metal Clips

5. Chemical Concepts self adhering Clips

#'s 1 through 4 are best applied at the time of installation,
with #5 being able to be utilized in a "retro-fit" application -
after the sink has been installed and THEN you
find out that ONLY silicone or bondo is all that was
used to hold your sink up in place....

I would suggest that yor contractor consider using
some of the Chemical Concept clips that are available
through Braxton Bragg. This in my opinion, will solve
your problem once and for all.

hope that helps


Kevin M. Padden MIA SFA
Fabricator, Trainer & Consultant to the Natural Stone Indusrtry

Here is a link that might be useful: Braxton Bragg's Peel-N-Stick Mounting Clips for Undermount Sinks


sink problems
clipped on: 12.17.2007 at 08:14 am    last updated on: 12.17.2007 at 08:14 am

Post Script (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: bill_vincent on 12.08.2007 at 02:48 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sorry-- that's Sealers Choice GOLD 15.


grout release sealer then protector sealer
clipped on: 12.08.2007 at 04:17 pm    last updated on: 12.08.2007 at 04:17 pm

RE: Onyx and Staining and Grout? (Oh My!) (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: bill_vincent on 12.08.2007 at 02:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

So, will sealing the tile before grouting prevent the tile from picking up stain from the dark grout? If so, what sealer would you recommend?

If you're going to use a dark grout, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea. As for the sealer to use as a grout release, my favorite would be Aquamix's WATER based penetrating sealer. I can't explain it, but the water based sealers work better as a grout release, even though the solvent based sealers work better to protect the tile long term, and yes, you can use one after the other. I would suggest you use them both from the same manufacturer, in which case, you'd want the Sealers Choice 15 to seal it after grouting.

Now, that all said, one other thing you might think about, instead of using a black grout, it'll help alot with pigmentation and possible staining if you were to step it down just a hair and use a charcoal grout, instead.


sealer for onyx grout release
clipped on: 12.08.2007 at 04:16 pm    last updated on: 12.08.2007 at 04:16 pm

RE: Pull Out Trash (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: lowspark on 07.20.2007 at 11:02 am in Kitchens Forum

I'm not sure what the door mount kit is, but you have to have a pull out trash in order for the foot pedal to work.

In other words, your trash bins should be hanging from a rail attached to the door OR sitting on a shelf attached to the door. The door should pull open like a drawer (not swing open like a normal cab) and as it pulls open the trash bins come out with it.

Note that Haefele makes two different pedals, one for the bins hanging from rails and one for the bins sitting on the shelf. I'm not clear on which one you've linked to above. Also note that these foot pedals are designed for frameless cabs. I don't know if they can or have been used on framed cabs and would be interested to hear about that if anyone has.

Here are the links I have to the two kinds of Haefele pedals:

Pedal for trash can which hangs from rails

Pedal for trash can which sits on base


clipped on: 11.20.2007 at 05:01 pm    last updated on: 11.20.2007 at 05:01 pm

Sneak Peek at WZ Stacked Slate Backsplash

posted by: slc2053 on 11.19.2007 at 01:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

Finally after having cabinets in since January...we have a's almost complete....It is Walker Zanger's stacked slate...

We anguished over this as it is so different than any other is very uneven and it is not grouted (although we may grout some areas that have distinct gaps, but the product overall is not made with the intent to grout..I know Bill don't agree)

It took forever for us to be sure that we wanted this product, then we ordered it and got it in and many of the 4 inch by 16 inch mesh sheets of it were broke..but we managed to work with it. Also the pieces looked very dull in our garage so we felt for sure we would enhance it, but now that it's up, it looks great and we're seriously debating sealing it, but leaving it to it's natural look vs. enhancing it.

We also debated how to "end" the tile because it is so uneven (surface) and because our top cabinet ended 2.5 inches short of the bottom edge of the countertop (this is the photo we posted). So, we decided to leave the slate the way it came which is leaving the ends of the pieces stagged and worked our way up the wall, moving in slightly with each piece. We now have a stemware rack hanging below the end cabinet (rack was made by a friend and was stained to match cabinets). Our granite is uba tuba, but you can't see it in photo.

Thanks to all who said "go for it!"

We are thrilled with the results and will post finished photos when we post our 100% done kitchen posting, which should be very soon!

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket


clipped on: 11.19.2007 at 05:28 pm    last updated on: 11.19.2007 at 05:29 pm

Tumbled copper slate backsplash

posted by: terriks on 11.12.2007 at 10:56 am in Kitchens Forum

I haven't really posted here since we built our house two years ago. I wanted to do my own tile backsplash and it's taken this long to get it done!
I bought the tile over 6 months ago and just finished. I painted wood outlet covers with craft paint to match the tile, which is tumbled copper slate. The grout is "tobacco" by Custom. The granite on the counter is tan brown. We plan to replace the actual outlets with brown ones. We also need to caulk between the counter and the backsplash.
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket


these are the colors that I'm thinking about but now I'm not sure if there is enough contrast....too much blending for my kitchen.
clipped on: 11.12.2007 at 05:57 pm    last updated on: 11.12.2007 at 05:57 pm

RE: silly chandelier question (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: kathypass on 05.20.2006 at 11:40 am in Kitchens Forum

I found this on-line, although the standard is 36". Hope this helps.

"Size does matter when choosing the perfect ceiling lamp. The width, if youre looking for a chandelier, should be approximately 12 narrower than the width of your dining table and should hang about 30-40 above it, depending on the height of your ceiling. When choosing a pendant (single-fixture) ceiling lamp, consider the length and the shade diameter of the lamp, and make sure that its power would provide sufficient light for the whole table. For a multi-fixture ceiling lamp, make sure that the overall width, as well as the total number of fixtures, satisfy your lighting needs."


height for light fixture above table
clipped on: 11.11.2007 at 11:53 pm    last updated on: 11.11.2007 at 11:54 pm

RE: What color green did you use? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: celticmoon on 10.18.2007 at 11:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

I used BM Victorian Garden. Soft and clear, but very elusive. Not quite green, not quite gray, not quite sage.
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Good luck finding your color!


nice color for kitchen if going with cool color grayish/green
clipped on: 11.11.2007 at 11:38 pm    last updated on: 11.11.2007 at 11:39 pm

RE: paneling fridge w/ 'chalkboard'? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: cate1337 on 11.11.2007 at 10:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

Or, for a less expensive alternative, Wallies might work. (Wallies are those stick-on decorations you often see used in children's rooms.) They've got four 9"x12" panels for under $20.

I'm planning to try it, although it'll be a month or two before that project hits the top of my list. I'll try to remember to give feedback on if it works or just looks like cheap shelf liner.

Here is a link that might be useful: Wallies chalk panels


stick on chalk board -- use on fridge or inside of cabinet!
clipped on: 11.11.2007 at 11:05 pm    last updated on: 11.11.2007 at 11:05 pm

Natural stone primer/ granite 101 by stonegirl

posted by: mary_in_nc on 11.04.2007 at 09:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

Found this through google search- apparently this was a previous thread in KF by Stonegirl. Felt it worth repeating.

Hi folks -

This is a little article I wrote on another forum and in reply to a few questions regarding the selection of natural stone and stone fabricators.

In an industry that has no set standards, there are a lot of unscrupulous people trying to palm themselves off as fabricators. There are also a number of people with odd agendas trying to spread ill rumors about natural stone and propagate some very confusing and contradictory information. This is my small attempt at shedding a little light on the subject

On the selection of the actual stone slabs - When you go to the slab yard to choose slabs for your kitchen, there are a few things you need to take note of:

Surface finish: The finish - be it polished, honed, flamed antiqued or brushed should be even. There should be no spots that have obvious machine marks, scratches or other man made marks. You can judge by the crystal and vein pattern of the stone if the marks you see are man made or naturally occurring. It is true that not all minerals will finish evenly and if you look at an angle on a polished slab with a larger crystal pattern, you can clearly see this. Tropic Brown would be a good example here. The black spots will not polish near as shiny as the brown ones and this will be very obvious on an unresined slab, looking at an acute angle against the light. The black specks will show as duller marks. The slab will feel smooth and appear shiny if seen from above, though. This effect will not be as pronounced on a resined slab. Bottom line when judging the quality of a surface finish: Look for unnatural appearing marks. If there are any on the face of the slab, it is not desirable. They might well be on the extreme edges, but this is normal and a result of the slab manufacturing process.

Mesh backing: Some slabs have a mesh backing. This got done at the plant where the slabs were finished and is to add support to brittle materials or materials with excessive veining or fissures. A number of exotic stones will have this. This does not necessarily make the material one of inferior quality, though. Quite often these slabs will require special care in fabrication and transport, so be prepared for the fabricator to charge accordingly. If you are unsure about the slabs, ask your fabricator what his opinion of the material is.

On cracks and fissures: Yes - some slabs might have them. One could have quite the discussion on whether that line on the slab could be one or the other, so I'll try to explain it a little Fissures are naturally occurring features in stone. They will appear as little lines in the surface of the slabs (very visible in a material like Verde Peacock) and could even be of a different color than the majority of the stone (think of those crazed white lines sometimes appearing in Antique Brown). Sometimes they could be fused like in Antique Brown and other times they could be open, as is the case in the Verde Peacock example. They could often also go right through the body of the slab like in Crema Marfil, for instance. If you look at the light reflection across a fissure, you will never see a break - i.e. there will be no change in the plane on either side of a fissure. A crack on the other hand is a problem... If you look at the slab at an oblique angle in the light, you will note the reflection of the shine on the surface of the stone. A crack will appear as a definite line through the reflection and the reflection will have a different appearance on either side of the line - there will be a break in the plane. Reject slabs like this. One could still work around fissures. Cracks are a whole nother can of worms.

On resined slabs: The resin gets applied prior to the slabs being polished. Most of the resin then gets ground off in the polishing process. You should not be able to see just by looking at the surface of a slab whether it was resined or not. If you look at the rough sides of the slab, though, you will see some drippy shiny marks, almost like varnish drips. This should be the only indication that the slab is resined. There should never be a film or layer on the face of the stone. With extremely porous stones, the resining will alleviate, but not totally eliminate absorption issues and sealer could still be required. Lady's dream is an example. This material is always resined, but still absorbs liquids and requires sealer. Test the material you have selected for absorption issues regardless - it is always best to know what your stone is capable of and to be prepared for any issues that might arise. Some stones indeed does not require sealer - be they resined or not. Baltic Brown would be an example here. It will not absorb one iota of anything, but gets resined to eliminate a flaking issue.

Now for some pointers on recognizing good craftsmanship and quality fabricators:

Most stone installations will have seams. They are unavoidable in medium or large sized kitchens. One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum. It seems that a good book could be written about seams, their quality and their placement and still you will have some information that will be omitted! For something as seemingly simple as joining two pieces of stone, seams have evolved into their own universe of complexity far beyond what anybody should have fair cause to expect!

A generic good quality seam should have the following characteristics:

- It should be flat. According to the MIA a minimal amount of lippage is acceptable (1/32"), but conscientious fabricators all strive for a perfectly flat and smooth joint.

- It should be narrow - as in smaller than 1/16". (I think the MIA stipulates no larger than 1/8", but that is pushing it - and only if the fabricator bevels the edges of the seam, almost similar to the edge of a stone tile. This is, thank goodness, not a standard practice any more!)

- The color on either side of the seam should match as close as possible. On regularly patterned stones like Ubatuba for example - there should be no variation. On stones with variation in colors or veins, the match should be made as close as was humanly possible.

- Vein direction should flow. The MIA suggests a single direction of vein flow, but it is acceptable IF DISCUSSED WITH THE CLIENT to change vein direction on a seam if no other option is available. This would happen in book matched slabs - you will have a "butterfly" seam in this case. In other cases the fabricator could put a miter seam in a corner and change vein direction 90 degrees. This is usually done with extremely linear veining like Bamboo Green, for example, but this is something that should be discussed with the fabricator and agreed upon by the client.

- The seam on the finished edge of the stone should NOT dip in and create a divot in the edge. When you run your fingers over the edge you should not be able to feel the location of the seam at all.

- The thickness of the slabs on either side of the seam should be equal (or feathered out so that there is no discernible difference)

- The glue in the seam should be of a color that matches the stone as close as possible. Glue joints that are too light or too dark will show up something terrible. The idea behind tinting the glue is to try an make the seam "disappear" or something relatively close to it

Seam placement: Yet another kettle of fish (or can of worms, depending on how you look at it, I guess!) Seam placement is ultimately at the discretion of the fabricator. I know it is not a really popular point of view, but that is just the way it is. There really is more to deciding where the seam would go than just the size of the slab or where the seam would look best in the kitchen.

Among the things the fabricator needs to look at when deciding on the seam placement are:

- The slab: size, color, veining, structure (fissures, strength of the material an other characteristics of the stone)

- Transport to the job site: Will the fabricated pieces fit on whatever vehicle and A-frames he has available

- Access to the job site: Is the house on stilts? (common in coastal areas) How will the installers get the pieces to where they need to go? Will the tops fit in the service elevator if the apartment is on the 10th floor? Do the installers need to turn tight corners to get to the kitchen? There could be 101 factors that will impact seam placement here alone.

- Placement and size of undermount (or other) cut-outs. Some fabricators like to put seams in undermount sinks, some don't. We, for instance will do it if absolutely necessary, and have done so with great success, but will not do so as general practice. We do like to put seams in the middle of drop-in appliances and cut-outs and this is a great choice for appearances and ease of installation.

- Location of the cabinets: Do the pieces need to go in between tall cabinets with finished sides? Do the pieces need to slide in under appliance garages or other cabinetry? How far do the upper cabinets hang over? Is there enough clearance between the vent hood and other cabinets? Again the possibilities are endless and would depend on each individual kitchen lay-out and - ultimately -

- Installability of the fabricated pieces: Will that odd angle hold up to being moved and turned around to get on the peninsula if there is no seam in it? Will the extra large sink cut-out stay intact if we hold the piece flat and at a 45 degree angle to slide it in between those two tall towers? Again a 1001 combinations of cabinetry and material choices will come into play on this question.

You can ask your fabricator to put a seam at a certain location and most likely he will oblige, but if he disagrees with you, it is not (always) out of spite or laziness. Check on your fabricator's seams by going to actual kitchens he has installed. Do not trust what you see in a showroom as sole testament to your fabricator's ability to do seams.

With modern glues and seaming methods a seam could successfully be put anywhere in an installation without compromising the strength or integrity of the stone. If a seam was done well, there would be - in theory - no "wrong" location for it. A reputable fabricator will also try to keep the number of seams in any installation to a minimum. It is not acceptable, for instance to have a seam in each corner, or at each point where the counter changes direction, like on an angled peninsula.

Long or unusually large pieces are often done if they can fit in the constraints of a slab. Slabs as a rule of thumb will average at about 110"x65". There are bigger slabs, and quite often smaller ones too. Check with the fabricator or the slab yard. They will be more than happy to tell you the different sizes of slabs they have available. Note, though, that the larger the slabs, the smaller the selection of possible colors. Slab sizes would depend in part on the capabilities of the quarry, integrity of the material or the capabilities of the machinery at the finishing plant. We have had slabs as wide as 75" and as long as 130" before, but those are monsters and not always readily available.

Rodding is another issue where a tremendous amount of mis-information and scary stories exist: The main purpose for rodding stone would be to add integrity to the material around cut-outs. This is primarily for transport and installation and serves no real purpose once the stone is secured and fully supported on the cabinets. It would also depend on the material. A fabricator would be more likely to rod Ubatuba than he would Black Galaxy, for instance. The flaky and delicate materials prone to fissures would be prime candidates for rodding. Rodding is basically when a fabricator cuts slots in the back of the stone and embeds steel or fiberglass rods with epoxy in the slots in the stone. You will not see this from the top or front of the installation. This is an "insurance policy" created by the fabricator to make sure that the stone tops make it to your cabinets all in one piece.

Edges: The more rounded an edge is, the more stable it would be. Sharp, flat edges are prone to chipping under the right (or rather wrong) circumstances. Demi or full bullnose edges would almost entirely eliminate this issue. A properly milled and polished edge will be stable and durable regardless of the profile, though. My guess at why ogee and stacked edges are not more prevalent, would be purely because of cost considerations. Edge pricing is determined by the amount of work needed to create it. The more intricate edge profiles also require an exponentially larger skill set and more time to perfect. The ogee edge is a very elegant edge and can be used to great effect, but could easily look overdone if it is used everywhere. We often advise our clients to combine edges for greater impact - i.e. eased edge on all work surfaces, and ogee on the island to emphasize the cabinetry or unusual shape.

Like I said earlier - edge profiles are largely dependent on what you like and can afford. There is no real pro or con for regular or laminated edges. They all have their place in the design world Check with your fabricator what their capabilities and pricing are. Look at actual kitchens and ask for references.

A good edge should have the following characteristics:

- Shine: The edge polish should match the top polish in depth and clarity. The edge should not be milky, dull or waxy.

- The edge should not have "waves". Eyeball along the edge. A good edge should have a mirror like reflection and be fairly flat. Waves that you can see or feel are not a good thing.

- The aris (very top of the edge) should be crisp and straight, even on a bullnose edge. Once again you can see this by eyeballing along the very top end of the edge profile. A wavy, dippy aris is poor craftsmanship.

- A good edge will have a consistent profile. It will not be larger in some spots or smaller in others.

- A good edge should also have NO tooling lines. These will be fine lighter/white lines running along the edge. This is a mark of a poor edge polish, of a CNC machine that is not set correctly and a lack of hand finishing. This is common when a company has only mechanised fabrication (i.e. CNC macines or line polishers) and no skilled hand fabricators to finish the work properly.

We have seen some terrible edges in jobs done by our competitors.

Do your research and look at actual kitchens. Talk to clients and ask them about the fabricator. Most good fabricators will not hesitate to supply the names and numbers of clients willing to provide referrals. Do your homework.



granite info...seaming, etc.
clipped on: 11.05.2007 at 08:20 am    last updated on: 11.05.2007 at 08:20 am

RE: Outlet on Island--Problem. (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: cloud_swift on 11.04.2007 at 11:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

We discussed the Mockette briefly. I'm sure the gasket is fine initially but in my experience the rubber for gaskets (or whatever is used in its place) doesn't last forever. We didn't want to be searching for a replacement gasket in 10 years. Also, we didn't want an extra bump to clean around on the counter.

As far as the hole already cut, you might as well put an outlet in it. It won't count as a required outlet but someone using a laptop at the overhang might find it useful. You certainly want to make sure that any new location will pass inspection.

BTW, does the island have a sink? Another good location for an outlet on an island is the panel in front of the sink. I find that location very practical to plug in the mini-food processor or immersion blender.

Donna, the wood outlet covers came from They can be bought in a variety of wood species. You can select from one of the finishes they have or you can get them unfinished so someone locally can match them to your cabinet finish. The outlets themselves are Lutron in midnight satin.

NOTES: for custom switchplates...cherry, etc.
clipped on: 11.05.2007 at 07:55 am    last updated on: 11.05.2007 at 07:55 am

RE: glass doors in upper cabinets (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: spinmom on 11.05.2007 at 07:47 am in Kitchens Forum

I just found it so I'm answering my own post... It has very cool glass if I don't go the 'stained glass' route (dh is not too crazy about stained glass in the kitchen). I love stained glass but this stuff could be a good compromise.

Here is a link that might be useful: beautiful glass site


love the streakies
clipped on: 11.05.2007 at 07:46 am    last updated on: 11.05.2007 at 07:46 am

RE: Kitchen remodel coming along...need some opinions (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: mindstorm on 10.23.2007 at 04:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

jreich, I think your backsplash is fine too. Now, I'm a committed blue person but I have to say that I'd agree that it doesn't quite work in your space. You have a lot of warm and beige tones in the kitchen and I agree with a previous post that you don't want/need more beige and gold colors but there's a little too much something in the wall color you do have that isn't jiving too well with the rest. There are some cool-toned mocha/coffee (???) colors that I think would suit your room right down to the ground. So, it keeps the coolness of the blue-gray but in a like palette.

I did a quick check and see if you agree: I went to the ellen kennon website to her virtual room painter picked dining rooms and then settled on DR7 which I think has a mix of the same tones as you have in your kitchen - deep orangey-browns, tans and beige and a smattering of some other colors. Many of others with wood furniture had quite prominent whites which you don't have, or had big black colors which again, don't work. So, 1 or 7 were the two I thought mapped best color-wise, to your room. Started picking colors for the room. To me the color called "Driftwood" looked quite good in there but see what you think. It is a sort of muddy gray and I thought made the room quite polished looking. However, you may also find it somewhat heavy and ponderous. For a somewhat lighter feeling, the paler blues like "Alexandra Blue" or even "seaglass" hit a good note on my monitor. Personally, I didn't like the deep blue ("slate") in that room either so I thought maybe you and the others who objected to the blue may have picked up on the right note.

Anyhow, see what you think. BTW, I'm not necessarily saying that based on what the color you like from the link that you should settle on that color straight away and call it a day, rather the suggestion is to help you home in to the color scheme as it appears to you. You can then get whatever is the best fit to the color you see, as *you* see it.

Good luck. Hopefully this'll be helpful.


try out paint in the dining rooms
clipped on: 10.23.2007 at 08:48 pm    last updated on: 10.23.2007 at 08:48 pm

My favorite lighting links

posted by: jon1270 on 11.15.2006 at 08:13 am in Lighting Forum

Since I set about planning the lighting for my recent kitchen remodel I've spent a lot of time reading everything I could find on lighting design. It's been a bit of an obsession. Anyhow, I thought it might be appropriate to share the better online lighting design resources I've found.

Lighting Design Lab has all sorts of good stuff, including an Articles page with stuff like Eric Strandberg's Residential Ramblings.

Randall Whitehead's Top 10 Lighting Tips are worth looking at. His is the best of the lighting books I've read.

This site has another nice selection of short articles on general lighting design.

The California Lighting Technology Center at U.C. Davis has resources that focus on energy-efficient lighting, including the very nice Title 24 Residential Lighting Design Guide

If you're confused by some of the terminology, this lighting glossary might help.

Lastly, I found this PDF on Reflector lamp photometrics very helpful when learning to understand the most important properties of the bulbs used in the ubiquitous recessed can.

I hope these are useful!


clipped on: 10.23.2007 at 07:23 am    last updated on: 10.23.2007 at 07:23 am

RE: Does the stainless in your kitchen match? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: twoyur on 10.14.2007 at 09:28 am in Appliances Forum


re: scratch removal

i was given two pads by the appliance store where I purchased most of my appliances

they are pink 3M p400 and P180

The P400 has holes through the pad and the P180 is solid

the P400 it polishes more than sands the P180 sands

as long as I go with the grain of my finish i have yet to find any scratch I could not remove

you can purchase them in the big box stores


scratch removal on stainless appliances
clipped on: 10.14.2007 at 10:58 am    last updated on: 10.14.2007 at 10:58 am

RE: Checklist For Granite Installation? (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: divastyle on 07.25.2007 at 09:56 am in Kitchens Forum

When deciding on a fabricator:
-  See the installer's work, especially the seams;
-  Talk about what they do to make the seam really tight and smooth.

-  Post pictures for the TKOed of your slabs!
-  Be present for the template process.
-  Be there when they place the templates on your slabs, but if you can't be there then have a lengthy conversation about seam placement, ways to match the movement, and ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seam;
-  Double check the template. Make sure that the measurements are reasonable. Measure the opening for the range.
-  Be sure you test your faucet for clearances not just between each fixture, but also between the faucet and the wall behind the faucet (if there is one). You need to be sure the handle will function properly.
-  Make sure that the cabinets are totally level (not out by more than 1/8") before the counter installers come in. Saves big headaches.
-  Make sure they have the sink/faucet templates to work from.
-  Check how close they should come to a stove

-  if you have wood floors--especially if you're in the process of staining or finishing them--make sure that they don't spill or drip granite sealer on the wood floors. Apparently the sealer interferes with the stain or finish process. Possibly considered brown kraft paper to protect your floors.
-  Make sure that your appliances are protected during the installation process.
-  Make sure you have a pretty good idea of your faucet layout--where you want the holes drilled for all the fixtures and do a test mock up to make sure you have accounted for sufficient clearances between each fixture.
-  Somewhere you will have a seam by you sink because they cannot carry the small pieces after cutting out for you sink without breaking. Ask them to show you where it will be and if you are ok with it. Should be covered in the appropriately colored caulk.
-  Check the seams for evenness and smoothness.
-  Make sure that the seams are neat and clean.
-  Make sure that the seams are not obvious.
-  Make sure that there are no scratches, pits or cracks
-  Make sure that the granite has been sealed
-  Ask which sealer has been used on the granite.
-  Make sure that the sink reveal is consistent all the away around
-  Check the gap of the granite at the wall junctions.
-  Keep an eye for inconsistent overhangs from the counter edges
-  Make sure that all your edges are identical
-  Make sure that the laminate edge (if you have it) is smooth.
-  Check for chips. These can be filled.
-  Make sure the seams are butted tight.
-  If a cut-out or a seam is worked on OVER a drawer, be sure to remove the drawer and tape the glide. There have been instances where the granite dust destroyed the drawer glide.

-  Make sure that the top drawers open and close
-  Make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter
-  Make sure that you can open your dishwasher
-  Make sure that you have clearance to all of your appliances.
-  Make sure that you have the appropriate clearances for your appliances.
-  Make sure all you cabinets are still in the right place.

-  Watch when they apply the sealer, so that you know how to do it later.

Post Installation
-  Post pictures for the TKOed
-  Enjoy your kitchen!


clipped on: 10.14.2007 at 10:54 am    last updated on: 10.14.2007 at 10:55 am

RE: Best advice from this forum (Follow-Up #64)

posted by: koodles on 10.13.2007 at 11:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

I found out about Pegasus under-cabinet lighting here. Slim, good-looking, very energy-efficient, and reasonably priced.

I may be in the minority, but I never liked the all-drawer concept, and I'm glad I didn't let myself get converted. I have mostly doors with pull-outs, and never regret it. I store the most-used items near the front, so I rarely need the second "pull-out" motion. With drawers, the second motion (and third and fourth...) consists of: lift the whole stack of pans; remove the bottom one you need; put all the rest back into the drawer. Reverse when it's time to put them away. No thanks - I just pull out the bottom one if that's what I need, and the others fall back into place.

I was, however, convinced of the superiority of the Miele cutlery rack, and LOVE it much more than I thought I would.

Here is a link that might be useful: Pegasus undercabinet light


undercab lighting
clipped on: 10.14.2007 at 07:00 am    last updated on: 10.14.2007 at 07:00 am

RE: Drawers ready to fill--how best to maximize use of space? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: gizmonike on 10.12.2007 at 04:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have our dishes in island drawers, which have Blum soft close glides. I lined the drawers with Cushy Cupboard liner & found we didn't need anything more--the dishes stay put, each in their own stack.

We have foil, plastic wrap, & baggies in one wide drawer 4" tall. I think shallow works better than deep for these items.

The Glad, Rubbermaid, & Tupperware plastic tubs & lids are in a deep drawer, with a box container to corral the lids. Lately the Glad lids are being made to snap together. Rubbermaid has collapsible containers that save space.

We currently have flour, etc. in tall Rubbermaid canisters in a deep drawer, but may get more space efficient square containers to fit more in.

We keep bread & buns in plastic containers called Bread or Bun Buddy; these allow you to put the bread in with the plastic wrapper, pull the excess wrapper to the outside, and use the lid to secure. As you use the loaf, you pull on the wrapper which brings the next slice up to the top. These containers keep the bread items from getting smashed & I think they stay fresher longer. Our containers are in our walk-in pantry (along with the toaster) but they could easily go into a drawer.

Here is a link that might be useful: Bread Buddy


storage for bread/buns, etc.
clipped on: 10.12.2007 at 07:58 pm    last updated on: 10.12.2007 at 07:59 pm

RE: RE:How To Insert A Pic? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: celticmoon on 09.11.2007 at 12:08 am in Kitchens Forum

Me again. Is this better?

How do I embed pictures in my post?
1. Open a free account at or a similar 'storage site'.

2. Move pictures off your hard drive or camera by clicking 'download' and identifying the picture(s) you want to move from your camera or hard drive.

3. Once the pictures are there in Photobucket, do the Happydance part 1.

4. Select and resize a picture, by clicking on 'edit' above the picture, then 'resize', then 'website' for medium or 'message board' for large. (skip this step and your picture will post giant and make everyone reading the thread have to scroll to the right forever. Not cool.)

5. Under your picture, find and copy the HTML tag in the box marked HTML (looks like >ahref =...).

6. Back at your post, copy that tag right into the body of your message.

7. Check the preview to besure the picture is there and sized OK. Do the happy dance part 2.

Better?? Should I explain how to copy and paste? What would help make it clearer?


posting pictures
clipped on: 10.10.2007 at 06:04 pm    last updated on: 10.10.2007 at 06:04 pm

RE: Any smart alternatives to contact paper shelving? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: birkie_2006 on 10.08.2007 at 10:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

I really like this cushy material from IKEA at $3.99 per roll (approx. 59" x 20". It works in drawers and shelves. IKEA sells clear and gray colored.

Here is a link that might be useful: IKEA drawer mat


cushy cupboards
clipped on: 10.09.2007 at 06:10 pm    last updated on: 10.09.2007 at 06:10 pm

RE: Drawer Pulls - Horror Show (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: valinsv on 09.07.2007 at 09:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

You do not say how wide the drawers and pulls are. I followed the 1 pull < 30" and 2 pulls >= 30". The ones with the two pulls have more of a furniture style look to me. I personally love the look. As someone had posted before, "hardware is jewelry for your kitchen."


rule for # pulls/knobs per drawer 30"
clipped on: 10.09.2007 at 08:38 am    last updated on: 10.09.2007 at 08:39 am